If you want help picking out a bike, post your height, what you will use the bike for, and a link to your local craigslist.>I want to buy a new bike. What should I watch out for?Don't buy Wal-Mart garbage.Don't buy department store garbage.Beware of amazon and alibaba garbage.>Should I buy from Bikes Direct?If you are clueless enough that you need to ask, no. If you have no mechanical ability, no. If the alternative is walmart, maybe. Ask first.>I want to buy a used bike. What should I watch out for and where should I buy?Craigslist is good for old bikes. Pinkbike.com/buysell is good for used modern mid- to high- end mountain bikes.Ask in /bbg/ if uncertain.Be aware that a used bike will need some repairs and adjustments. The most likely parts to need replacement are tubes, tires, brake pads, and chain. Chains are a wear item. Inspect all of these things as well as sprocket teeth, brake performance, shifting performance, and check bearings (bottom bracket, headset, and wheel hubs) for play, and check wheels for wobble. If there is a lot wrong with the bike, you may have to put a lot of money into it for parts, and money or time for repairs.>What size bike should I buy?The right size.https://goodcalculators.com/bike-size-calculator/
https://lynchburg.craigslist.orghttps://richmond.craigslist.orgI'm familiar with both these cities but I would have to travel to both of them>>1993008I'm looking for an older road bike, ideally something that I could put a rack on. I'm not well versed in bicycles, I've only rode cheap mountain bikes from when I was younger. I would be using it mostly on paved roads, bikepacking being the end goal. I'm 6 foot.
>>1993010if you're inexperienced, looking for vintage and don't want to spend an arm and a leg, i suggest buying a $20-$50 pos, and spending the rest of your budget on basic tools and new tires. this way you can learn what you like and don't like without spending a lot of money. you'll also learn basic maintenance which will be beneficial in the future. if you hate the bike, you just put the old tires back on and re-list it for the same price you paid and try something else. 80s jap bikes are a great value. Miyata, Nishiki, Centurion, Panasonic, Shogun, etc.
>>1993003Putting bikes direct and amazon/walmart bikes in the same category shows you have no idea what you're talking about. Just because there is a cultural taboo against swapping the 105 crankset and putting in fsa and still calling it a "105 build" doesn't mean it's in the same league as grip shifting monstrosities. I agree the marketing is skeezy and the bikes have negative prestige and many of the customers are probably pretty clueless but it's still better than a random craiglist dumpster dive, and btw you'll need mechanical ability on a mail order bike, unless maybe it's a canyon or something where it's meticulously done except for clamping the bars and sticking the front wheel in the dropouts
How much do fork materials _really_ matter on a bike? I'm looking at Cannondale vs Trek for a hybrid and there's a $400 difference between otherwise similar bikes with Steel/Alloy/Carbon forks.
>>1993021also you should mention how awful b*cycle bl** b**k is and how it should be ignored. much more relevant than bikes direct which is only mildly distasteful
>>1994782If it takes wide tires and you pump them up to the right pressure for system weight + conditions the difference will only be in weight.
>>1993011This is what I did. The bike itself was rubbish though and I ended up having to spend a lot of money replacing the steel rims, then brakes, then better levers to match those brakes, then new handlebars cause the diameter was too small for modern parts.I can’t put a price on experience though.
I know you're supposed to buy a quality used one if you're on a budget, but what's the best new bike I can get for under $300? Mainly going to be used on roads and dirt roads with maybe a little bit of trail use. I prefer thumb shifters over twist shifters. I can't buy used because I need a receipt. Insurance company is replacing one that was stolen.
>>1994835Can't you just use venmo to buy used and there's your receipt?
>>1994837I don't think they'll accept something that isn't from a major store. I was thinking of ordering one online from Academy Sports or Walmart and picking it up. I looked at the bikes they had on display in those stores; I didn't like any of them.
>>1994835something from decathlon
>full carbon gravel bike frame for $500 from chinks>Barely any reviewsAm I investing for a huge hospital bill or are they decent enough to get?
>>1994865I’ve heard that the low grade stuff has very poor quality workmanship. It’s carbon, don’t risk your death.
>>1994867You're right. Found some guy on leddit and it cracked open like glass.
I've been looking for a perfect all-year multipurpose dropbar bike that fits for a long time and my local shop has this superior x-road elite gr.https://superiorbikes.com/en-en/bikes/product/x-road-elite-gr/794The geometry is super comfortable, but it doesn't seem like a do-it-all bike. Max tire width is 40mm and no full fender or rack. mountsAny thoughts? should I keep looking?
>>1994835Literally not worth your money at $300Posiden was selling redwoods for $500 new, bout the bottom line for me
>>1993003Hello people. I start college next year and want a bike to commute. Do you recommend any particular city (hybrid?) bike around 500 euros? I have used bikes all my life and know basic maintenance/ got tools. However i have no idea about the market. Thanks in advance.
>>1995369I can only speak from my personal experience. I own only 1 city bike and its the only city bike I've ever owned. I have owned countless of road, tri- TT- bikes and such.Mine is a granville toronto 7 speed. It soon became my daily and I have abused the everliving hell out of it for 5 years or more. In a usual year I ride somewhere between 40k and 50k km, the majority of which was on this bike.Actual issues so far: The factory kickstand is rubbish but I dont use kickstands.It came with a suspension fork which is gay stupid and useless bloat on a bike of this type and would not be suitable for an actual offroad bike.Everything else seems bullet proof.Things that needed doing so far:The usual maintenance:Replacing brake pads, refilling and bleeding gay hydraulic brakes, replqcing broken spokes, oil service of the IGH, replacing worn through rims everytimes the wear indicator disappears, replacing the lights once after diodes blew, replacing shifter outer and cable, replacing front hydraulic line, service shocks (literally just friction dampened spring) replace BBs, replace pedals, cranks, replace chainring and cog, replace ergo grips. Of course replacing inner tubes and tires (shes currently on air + inners and marathon tires).She is reasonably fast. A real beast of burden, with some ingenuity she will carry almost anything. She is bullet proof and, what made her become and remain my daily fast: There is hardly ever a problem that you can't delay sorting or anticipate. If you for example break a spoke you don't have to do that before tomorrow morning, you can ride like that.The only thing i still feel weird about even ro this day is positioning on the bike, then again if after a crash I'm auffering from bad wrists I wouldnt want to ride low profile really.So yeah. She's perfect. Do with that whatever you want.
>>1995369forget It, 500 euro is now a weird price point for new. You can't get anything from nice brands, and it's too much for unknown brands mistery meat. So unfortunately I can't directly suggest you anything, mainly because I have some pretty strong opinions on what a commuter bike should look like but I don't want to groom you.In university cities used market could be good, just don't buy stolen, you could still get some nice catch. For something new and reliable you can just buy a decent Decathlon bike or maybe a hardtail, but I hate the idea of commuting with suspensions.Anyway, in university cities bike theft is common, you can't go around with something flashy and leave it for hours outside your library or dorm. You should get something either beat up and rusty or that looks beat up, get creative. Don't invest in nice saddles and invest in a nice lock.If I had to suggest anything... It would be take a riverside 120 for 280 euro or less on sale, rough it up and get a nice abus or kryptonite lock, and plus point you can mount some nice fat 2+ tires on that b, which are something that I look for on a commuting bike (here I said It sorry for the grooming).Either this or up your budget, but I don't know any serious university in the euro area where you could get away with a flashy bike, or go with a cheap used 3 speed If you live in a flat and "thefty" area.
>>1995369>>1995386Or you could take a page out of the book of the nerds around here, and get a hipster cheap used road bike or fixie, your knees and ass will hurt but you'll look good with girls innit?
>>1995386hes a huge faggot anyways and deserves the cage
what's the QRD on decathalon? planning to pick up a basic road bike for exercise and bikepacking, maybe some commuting.
Sup /bbg/, my state is launching an ebike rebate incentive - $1500 or up to a percentage of the value of the bike based on your 2023 taxes (in my case it looks to be around 60% max). I'm interested in upgrading from my current MTB to an eMTB, ideally around the $2500-3000 range. Please note that this incentive is only for new builds, as far as I am aware.I would like something that will be usable on a 15 mile commute each way (if I so desire) and good for trail riding. I'm 5'10" (~178cm if you hate freedom units), and 210lbs (95kg). Area around me is somewhat hilly so I'd like something with a bit of torque. So far trying to do my own research has me a bit overwhelmed since I get drowned out in loosely-veiled ads, and products that miss my market when trying to look up good ebikes at my price point. What are some bikes that would fill this description? From what I've seen anything quality starts hitting the 5-6k mark pretty quick, but I've seen some products that hang around my price point; I just don't want to drop over a grand on an "upgrade" that's total shit.
>>1995371>>1995386>>1995388Thanks for the input mates.
>>1995391Their dirt cheap bikes are great value, their entry level gravel bike Triban RC100 is like 300EUR and very ridable. Clothes are also pretty good. When it comes to their more expensive stuff, you're often better off with other brands, and don't buy non-decathlon brand stuff in their stores because it's usually more expensive.
>>1995392To my mind trail riding and commuting are completely different use cases, but setting that aside... Don't overthink things - walk into whatever local bike shop is closest to you and buy an e-MTB that's full suspension and has thru-axles front and rear. All the big brands have these in the 3-4k range and if you're not educated enough to geek out on the differences don't sweat it, you'll enjoy any riding any of these:https://www.cannondale.com/en-us/bikes/electric/e-mountain/moterra-neo/moterra-neo-s3https://www.giant-bicycles.com/us/stance-eplus-2-20mphhttps://www.specialized.com/us/en/turbo-levo-sl-comp/p/154888?color=263664-154888https://www.trekbikes.com/us/en_US/bikes/mountain-bikes/electric-mountain-bikes/rail/rail-5-gen-2/p/35032/?colorCode=black_teal
>>1994860>Academy Sports.No.>Walmart.Just fucking no.Bikesdirect.>>1994865Do you know how to test carbon?
Looking to restore my friend's bike. I got an old Sora STI 2x9 lying around. Now I just need chainring+crank and a rear derailleur. I have no idea about compatibility. Any suggestions which ones to buy? Can the chinks be trusted?
>>1995523>chainring+crankWhatever you want that the FD can handle. Your sora shifters are probably optimized for the standard 39/53 so that would work, or a compact 30/46, or a mtb setup could work with some messing around.>rdwhatever can cope with your 9s cassette.
should I get a Domane AL5 Gen 4? 2k USD
>>1995391Good for entry level shit - but their touring range makes me lol. Otherwise buying decent used.
>buy $1400 bike >still mostly ride the $20 beach cruiser that lives in the bushes in your backyard I should've just bought drugs
>>1995523You have to do your own research with the chinks, check trace velo for reviews and shitFor your crank, I recommend you buy a used squAre taper Shimano setFor your derailleur, I recommend a new Acera.
>>1995550You went too far. $500 gets you a soulful old bike you'll love but won't miss, buying used.
What's a good allroad/gravel bike frameset for running 650x47b for under $1000? The lower price the better, means I can get a better groupset. I was looking at the Surly Midnight special but it seems pretty expensive for a steelie. Probably going to run 1x11. The Kona Rove LTD seems good too, I'm just wondering if anyone has good experiences with these or any other options
>>1995538just pointing out that this post is total bullshit. but I don't want to shill for decathlon so those who have a little bit of sense can judge for themselves
>>1995523>Can the chinks be trusted?Chink here. Trust us as much as you can test us, or have others test for you. But there's more than enough shit that should work.>>1995563This is a good plan. But there's also enough new shimano and compatible stuff so don't neglect that.
>>1995572Sorry can't say, more of a 26in mtb guy.
>>1995572Posiden redwood is easily your best shot rn, there's a sale going on and you can get a new bike shipped for $500. All you really need to buy after that is a better saddle and tires.
>>1994782Less than geometry, but it's a strong indicator of quality and design philosophy. And most people can't read bike geometry. >>1995050At that price I see no reason to comrpomise.>>1995369Go higher in budget or go used.>>1995391They have some of the cheapest actual bikes around. They also have some complete fucking garbage so double check. Expect cut corners and weird specs. Like bikes direct but with less of a sense of humor.>>1995572Both those are maxway with premium paintjobs.
>>1995604if they're just generic frames and forks with nice paintjob, do you have any idea where I could get similar/same frames without the brand name? Shopping from SEA btw.>>1995603seems decent but not available where I'm at, and also want a few specific components so I was really looking for a frameset and not a complete bike
>>1995617Ye my bad mis read, a nice frame but fuck heavy
>>1995535bump :3
>>1995604>Less than geometrythis>most people can't read bike geometrygeometry can be incredibly complex, being able to read a bike's geometric design is just the start, understanding the effects of changing those numbers is where it's complex but ultimately dictates the character of a bike more than the material it's built from
Have used an FX2 Disc for a few years now and want something better with drop bars. 2k budget, wat do? Domanes seem nice
>>1995391Expect to switch the wheels on most of their bikes, but otherwise they're quite good for the price.
>>1995761Domane is a good choice. Hopefully you know this but do NOT get the ones with mech dicks
>>1995445Thanks anon. Yeah, commuter is generally different than MTB, so I'm more looking for a nice trail bike, just want something that I could use for a commute (mainly to help justify the upgrade), though I don't generally make a habit of it. I'll definitely check out my LBS for getting sized up, that's a good suggestion.
I need thi sbike
>>1995853>break me cage>cable dicks
I just want a typical aluminum 2x GRX gravel bike, budget is around 2000-2400€.>mounts, racks, fenders>tubeless ready/compatible wheels and tires>clearance up to 42-45mm for studded winter tires with fendersno weird shit like integrated cockpits or proprietary parts. I want to be able to tinker with the bike myself.so far I've found these: >Cannondale Topstone 2 2024seems fine, but they have FSA cranks instead of GRX and things like that are putting me off. >used trek checkpoint ALR5 2022 for 1900€second owners get 3 year warranty insted of lifetime, praxis alba cranks.
>>1995853Cable dick on a bike that nice is SUS but people overstate their shortcomings IMO.
>>1995867I have 2 or 3 pairs of fsa cranks and I like them.
>>1995535>>1995761Domane is an endurance road bike. So, faster and lighter and closer to a proper road bike than any commuter or cyclocross bike you guys are probably used to, but still not quite as fast/racey as a proper road bike (i.e. Madone, Emonda, Venge, Tarmac, etc). So if you want something that treads the line of being a fast light road bike but also with some emphasis on comfort for longer rides, Domane is a good option.If you don't care about being fast/light but just want a road-style drop bar bike for city riding, adventures, commuting, etc then you'd be better off with a cyclocross-style bike.And if you want a bike focused only on going fast, then either an aero road bike (i.e. Madone, Venge) if you live in a flat area or a lightweight road bike (i.e. Emonda, Tarmac) if you live in a hilly/mountainous area.In my personal opinion I wouldn't want a Domane for myself because it feels pretty slow compared to a more proper road bike like a Madone, and if I want that slower comfy ride quality I'd go with something closer to a cyclocross bike, but that is entirely my personal preference, the Domane is a good bike for people who want that kind of bike. test ride before buying.
>>1995770Nothing wrong with mechanical discs. Less hassle to maintain than hydraulics. Hydraulics are only worth having on mountain bikes and/or bikes used for racing, in my opinion. They do perform better but just not necessary or worth the hassle for a road bike that won't be raced.>>1995523Better to ask in /bqg/. Sheldon Brown and Park Tool and topnigger.ueuo.com all have some info on chainring/crank/derailleur compatibility.
>>1996247t. retard
>>1996250>no argument
>>1996247I love mechanical discs. A budget mechanical will perform 100 times better than an hydraulic one, and for commuting and leisure they're always more reliable. I also find for road and gravel use you have more control on braking power. That's my opinion. I would go with hydraulic only for downhill.
>>1996305>Budget mechanical will perform better than hydraulic Breh come on, this is completely false. The cheapest hydraulic is a fill step up from the best mechanical.I will say, that set up properly a good mechanical is fine. But it's a lot of faff to get there only for it to still be worse than hydraulic, hence why everyone says to just get hydraulic it you're shopping around.
>>1996305I don't even know how this could be intended as a troll post, it's several layers of wrong beyond "not even wrong", what is the meaning of this?
>>1996247this board has really gone to shit
>>1996305>would you really just go on the internet and post lies?seems so.t. shimano mt200 ENJOYERI am the opposite. I would go with cheap hydros over every cable disk setup. If you want less power/more modulation just go with smaller rotors or not 4pots.
>5'8.5", 32" inseam for jeans>new house>bicycle path that goes directly to my office>just want a nice simple commuter to get some exercise on>snows a lot here so being able to go though snow on nicer days would be a plus>under ~$500 usedI just wanna know what to look out for on FB marketplace to identify a quality bike, brands, features etc.
>>1996754Also I don't want a fixie, but also 18 or 21 speeds is excessive. Are 3 or 4 speeds a thing?
>>1996755You’re getting into hub gears at that point, which can be obscure and expensive outside of Europe and Asia. You may find one, but probably not.Try to track down a flat bar hybrid, it’ll be what you want. You’ll want to do some research into good brands, but general rule is, if a dedicated bike shop stocks the brand, it’s probably decent quality.Make sure you read up on how to check a second hand bike before you do your first inspection. And make sure it fits you. Most manufacturers sites will give you an idea on your height vs the bike size. Never compose on fit, even if it’s a good deal.
>>1996756Can you just not have a 4 ring rear cassette and no front one?Is it because the spread between each gear would be too large?
>>1996767Most hubs are modern, and that means cassettes.An older cassette hub can take 8 speeds to 10 or 11. Newer ones take 11-13 or more in the future.Old bikes run freewheels and you can get 5 speed or even 3 speed freewheels.All you do is reduce the range the rear derailleur goes, so one of my bikes is a "10 speed" just because I am running a 5 speed freewheel instead of the factory 7 speed or 6.You can also buy cassette spacers, then find a cassette that has loose cogs. Then install the spacers+loose cogs and run a custom 2,3,4 or whatever speed cassette.
What are some bikes that might interest someone daily driving the hell out of a Size L B'Twin Riverside 120 since 2017/2018 around a typical Eastern European agglomeration? I'm approaching the point of frequent tube replacements due to punctures, and the need to potentially buy two new tyres with a harder compound to protect against punctures (given how thin the stock tyres are by now) on top of a new cassette/chain I'm starting to wonder if I should perhaps consider upgrading to something which can take more punishment in all-season all-terrain environments as opposed to just gravel/street environments (even if they got potholes and curbs plenty).I've been more than satisfied with its comfort and utility for the price I got it from Decathlon (since long haul and calorie efficiency is my main concern) but I'm perhaps wondering if there's something more durable I could upgrade to. My biggest criticism of the bike would probably be the steering wheel becoming misaligned with the front wheel when going up steep surfaces or under heavy lateral loads, neither am I fan of the way it is attached given it is primarily fashioned out of PVC. So far my acquisitions for the bike over the years have been;>new brake pads (x2)>parking leg>new shifter cable to replace a damaged one (might be damaged somewhere around 1st gear again after a recent crash for all I know) >bottle holder>35-45 700mm schrader valve tube (x5)>some shitty wheel arches which are too flimsy or constantly scrape the real wheel (need to tie them down with zip ties)>gel seat (this one is very comfy) Kind of skeptical about putting in another $80-$120 on a sub-$320 bike for new tyres (which may wear out even faster or be cumbersome compared to the stock tyres for all I know) even if the new chain/cassette would at the very least would be worth considering after this long. More than once I've had the boys at my local Decathlon suggest I look into Mountain Bikes or Carbon fiber chassis/parts.
>>1996841>My biggest criticism of the bike would probably be the steering wheel becoming misaligned with the front wheel when going up steep surfaces or under heavy lateral loads, neither am I fan of the way it is attached given it is primarily fashioned out of PVCThe plastic piece is just a dust cap. There's nothing plastic about your steering. You can fix that just by removing your stem, cleaning everything, and greasing on reassembly. It's not an inherent problem it's just due to poor assembly. Actually you're not describing anything beyond basic maintenance. Replacing a bike because it needs new tires is insane. You also seem to be describing that you like an efficient bike but you want something tougher (in what way even?). Those are diametrically opposite values. Which one do you want? A mountain bike certainly won't be more 'calorie efficient'. Carbon fibre parts won't do fucking anything aside from make your bike more -fragile- and marginally lighter at great cost. Obviously you can get something that is faster and stronger simply by spending considerably more money and it will just be all round nicer but as for going for something categorically different I don't understand what you're even saying that you want and you haven't identified ANY real problems with your bike despite rambling almost as much as I am. I suggest you service your headset and hubs (yourself) and buy new tires.
should I get a checkpoint ALR5?
>>1996955if you specifically plan to ride gravel routes or tour on it, yesotherwise just buy a Domane, or other disc road bike, which nowadays have wide gearing and fit wide tires. Gravel bikes are redundant as allrounders.
>>1996754You got some long fucking legs dawg
>>1996841>>1996779>You can also buy cassette spacers, then find a cassette that has loose cogs. Then install the spacers+loose cogs and run a custom 2,3,4 or whatever speed cassette.Hack: use a punch to tap the rivets out of old cassettes and recover the cassette spacers, you'll never have to buy one again.>>1996841The costs to maintain it are high compared to the purchase price, but maintenance costs will be higher on a more expensive bike. I'm a wrench monkey at Decathlon, and that's why most people are put off by maintaining this bike: the low initial purchase vs the (entirely regular) maintenance cost, which leads to many people discarding the bike. The only possible difference would be not having to replace your rims eventually if you were to opt for a disc brake bike. That said, if you only wear through two pairs of brake pads and one pair of tires in three years, you're quite a way off from having to replace your rims. Use and maintain until your rims wear out I'd say.
>>1996988>Hack: use a punch to tap the rivets out of old cassettes and recover the cassette spacers, you'll never have to buy one again.Good pointsome even used to use 3 bolts to hold them together, next cassette I burn through I will save the spacers.
what can I change my 2x slx crankset for? I'm tired of this bullshit
I am thinking about buying an e-bike because I fail to ride a regular bike as a fatty and it is demoralising to fail getting speed at flat surface and fail to climb minor hills plus my legs and thighs feel numb and tingling each time I ride Any tips on a good e-bike?
>>1997040>plus my legs and thighs feel numb and tingling each time I ridethat doesn't sound right, I've never been fat, but numb and tingling is normally a sign of pressure on a nerve, which if it goes on too long can cause more serious problems. you're not going to escape that problem by getting a motor, because it's not caused by the effort of pedaling, it's probably saddle position and/or frame size and you might also be putting too much weight on the saddle and not enough on your hands and feet
>>1997040try the ebike thread?
Are the B'Twin Trekking 9 Protect+ tyres any good? I'd like to make these last 5+ years because I'm fed up with punctures on my 6-7 year old factory tyres right now. I would get the Schalbe Marathon Plus tyres if they fit on my 28" wheels but it seems there are noen.
>>1997190Even as the decathlon shill in chief around here, I wouldn't suggest their tires. They seem super coarse and not reliable. Never tried em personally, but honestly reviews on their site don't seem enthusiastic. Get Schwalbe if you want em to last and be safe for punctures.The marathon plus in 37-622 you want are on bike24 at same price https://www.bike24.com/p265567.html?sku=256483
>>1997207>37-622I thought these wouldn't be compatible with my 28" 700x38 wheels so I chose not to acquire them, especially since the location had none on hand.
>>1997210These tyres are for their street/gravel bikes right? The etrto would be around 38-622 compared to the 37-622 Schwalbe tyres so it might be too wide from what I know.
>>199721037 means that is just a "nominal" millimeter narrower than your ideal 38. In reality they are the same considering that every brand has a differend kind of real life width, and schwalbe is known for being a lil bit wider..
>>199721037-622 is the same as 700x3738-722 is the same as 700x38
>>1997210>>1997215Based off what I'm reading the nearest spec Marathons' might be only 2mm wider at the bead, so they should still work on something like the Riverside 120 or whatever else the Trekking 9 700x38 Protect Plus tyres are likely going on. Chances are if the tyres haven't been used yet you might be able to return them.
>>1997190B'Twin are the lowest tier CST tires. Also look at sealant. I run with a mix of slime and stans on my commuter. Slime to keep the stans from drying out too fast, and stans to actually seal holes permanently enough.>>1997040>legs and thighs feel numb and tingling each time I rideFitament problem. Correct posture, saddle height, saddle. Add gloves. And go faster.>>1996841>>1996841>B'Twin Riverside 120>Eastern European agglomeration?I'd start looking for a better bike, for whatever geometry and posture you want. Suspension only makes sense if you've got significant drops, more than a few cm. In the short term, the first thing you should adopt is MTB techiques for avoiding punctures. Probably sealant. Your rims probably won't accept tubeless.As far as new bikes, why not try out a rigid or light hardtail MTB.
>>1997215I'll assume these won't fit on something like this >>1996841 then.
Is a rockhopper expert for £779/£989? a decent deal or is there something better around or under the same price?
I'm tempted to buy this bike.https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OQBdhBU3cRA
>>1997227thank you for the clear spacing and formatting, it really helps in making sense to all the bs you posted
I want to sell my bike, but I'm uncertain about this damage to the frame, and I am worried potential buyers will be too. I have ridden the bike for thousands of miles since it has sustained these injuries, and the knocking with a coin trick leads me to believe it is fine. What should I say to buyers?
So a shop near me has a good deal on a nice (prestige name, high modulus carbon) gravel bike with the groupset swapped out for something less glamorous but still totally fine (I'd rather have a nice frame and good enough groupset than a shit frame and top end groupset, and I can't afford a top frame and a top groupset).I'm not desperate for a third bike but I do intend to get one at some point, and I want something that's ROUGHLY in the same ballpark as my main bike (a road bike), so this could actually fit into my long term plans pretty well.But here's the thing. I took it for a ride and while it felt really stable, it also felt a little unresponsive because of the ginormous knobby tires and cheaper wheels compared to my road bike, and flared meme bars. So it was hard to make an apples to apples comparison.The geometry is in most ways extremely similar to my road bike. the main difference is chainstay is 15mm longer, everything else is within 2-3mm or less than 1 degree. Slightly longer headtube, slightly more stack. Oh and obviously quite a bit more tire clearance, though I don't really care about that (if anything it's less than ideal, I don't like big ass clumsy tires)What I'm wondering is, aren't gravel bikes supposed to be all about low speed agility? On the one hand balance was piss easy at low speed, but the handlebars were really slow to turn and it felt like tight corners were something of a challenge. Why is the chainstay 15mm longer, with all else being about the same, if that's the case? Just for 40mm tires? What could I expect of it if I put my good wheels on it, and put the ok wheels on my new "third bike", like should I just assume the clumsy was from the tires/wheels and not the long chain stays?
>>1997601>within 2-3mm or less than 1 degreeBesides doubting this statement a degree in some areas makes a difference between night and day.Sluggish. But you're saying the wheelbase is within 15 mm of your road bike, the trail is the same (since no one makes odd forks where the rake satisfies '2-3 mm' different from a 45mm fork rake) ? Post botg geos maybe ? One thing that could have ruined the habdling for you is setup. The same bike, or two identical bikes, can behave very different depending on where fit places your center of gravity and how pressure is distributed between front and rear.
>>1997601>What I'm wondering is, aren't gravel bikes supposed to be all about low speed agility? No, if anything gravel bikes are beyond "endurance" road bikes and are more slack. Some are slacker then old mtb's. cyclocross bikes are the ones (I think) that were designed for slow speed agility, and my ritchey swiss cross seems to fit that realm, but I mostly ride quick vintage road bikes.>On the one hand balance was piss easy at low speed, but the handlebars were really slow to turn and it felt like tight corners were something of a challenge. It's easier to balance with more relaxed angles, handlebars are slow to turn because of heavy wheels+tires. Wide bars would help, but "wide" for road users is like 46cm, not 650+ like mtbers run.>Why is the chainstay 15mm longer, with all else being about the same, if that's the case?Comfort, tire clearance, less twitchy design focus. Longer chainstays flex more and are inherently more comfortable, while generally required for larger tires. They also improve descending comfort due to reducing twitchiness. This is why DH mtb's are "long and low" for maximum speed.>Just for 40mm tires? What could I expect of it if I put my good wheels on it, and put the ok wheels on my new "third bike", like should I just assume the clumsy was from the tires/wheels and not the long chain stays?It will be quicker, but we aren't going to know how much, and how much you can feel.Maybe ask the bike shop owner if you could do a demo ride with your nice wheels(if everything matches) and off X amount of money before you buy? Admittedly I haven't done much demoing, but I remember a long time ago just riding around the parking lot I noticed how one mtb was way slacker then another, and that wasn't great in the parking lot but now I know it would be better for descending.
>>1997560"has some scratches and dents", pictures show them all.I have ridden X miles and it has been fine.That's what I would do, be open about it.Sometimes I see frames for sale that are FUCKED, and later on I always see the descriptions added in about the damage. Presumably because someone was interested, asked, and then bailed/low balled.
>>1997601>What I'm wondering is, aren't gravel bikes supposed to be all about low speed agility?No. It's mostly marketing. The geometry is all over the fucking place on those. Take anon's advice on another demo with good wheels. >>1997607This is the way. Even if the frame is fucked, you might get someone who wants key parts.
Any reason I shouldn't go buy this for ~$300?There's not many used gravel bikes available around here rn
Did I do good for $325 bros?
>>1997757>>1997986Well, it's done have fun now!
I need a cheapest gravel bikel that meets all these requirements:- aluminum frame and fork- thru-axles front and rear- one-by drive train- derailleur with a clutch- hydraulic brakesChinese bikes or components are fine too as long as they meet the requirements from the list.
>>1998266Muriga, eu, UK or down under?
>>1998276EU, but I have no issues with ordering if it's reasonable.
>>1998279Dude there's literally nothing with all your specs. You should reconsider at least the hydraulic brakes
>>1998320Carbon fiber frame and fork are fine as well, but I think they are too expensive here. Well I will do as I thought but just ordering the parts off aliexpress and making my own bike.
>>1998266Check posiden website, they're still selling redwoods for $500 of you're the right size. All you gotta do is buy some chink ltwoo hydro groupset and you'll be at like $600.
>>1998633I've checked. Is this what americans call a gravel? Because in the rest of the world it is called a fucking fat-bike.
>>1998633By the way, I asked about a 29", not a 27.5" toddler bike.
>>1998643>wagon wheel posting>>1998641sir.... fat bikes have 4.0in tires. OTOH that is bordering rigid mtb territory with how large the knobs are.Anything over 50mm with large knobs is a mtb.
>>1998641>>1998643Well first off, rude as fuck. Second it's literally normal ass MTB tire sizes. Third you did not specify tire sizes. Fourth you can still put 700c wheels in there. Fifth your requirements are niche and retarded. Sixth fuck you I was trying to help you, you moose
I currently have no bike, but have moved to an area with amazing bikability.I think it would be best to buy a bicycle in person, at a store that will also service and maintain the bike.I am looking for a hybrid, due to a broken wrist a few years ago I can't use the road bike style handles and positioning comfortably. The brands in my area of Korea are Samchully (local brand)AltonTrekGiantDecathlon is only in the capital city, and that's on the other side of the country from me. I'm looking to spend roughly $1000. I intend to ride a 6km journey to work daily, and then use it for recreational and fitness riding on the weekends on the beautiful "bike path of death" by the Taehwa River. The name was given to the path 20 years ago when it was an ecological disaster, but now it's a beautiful nature reserve with otters, ferrets, raccoon dogs and many water birds. Took at look at the new FX3 2024 with Cues 1x10, and the other Trek models. The trek people are very friendly and helped me maintain my old bicycle before it was destroyed when I movedThankyou for coming to my tedX talk, please subscribe to my only fans
>>1998687is your bussy on onlyfans?
total newfag here.where can i buy a cheap bike in cologne?im willing to go used if someone can tell me what to look for cause i know jack shit.
Oh my Gorn...
Would this be a good bike for a triathlon? I am doing a sprint in August, and this will be the first bike I've ever gotten. It's a 2008 Cannondale Slice, and maybe a little bit big for me? I would have to see the fit in person, but the seller is asking for $400. It doesn't come with pedals or water bottle holders, to my dismay. The seller said that I could, for $50, "add the Mavic Power-tap wheel that comes with the Power tap computer head". I don't really know what that means, but I like training with data and feel like I'd probably be interested in it. I definitely want to measure cadence somehow.Also, would this be good for winter training? I live in Chicago, so I can't go outside in the winter to bike. I would probably use MyWhoosh or whatever, but then I'd have to get some sort of indoor trainer, right?I don't understand how all of this works so if you could help me out that'd be much appreciated. Right now I've been biking on the spin bikes in my gym, where I can connect my heart rate monitor and see my cadence.
>>1999823Fit matters the most. How tall are you, and get your cycling inseam too(stand against wall with no shoes, stick hard book against your taint tight, then measure from your taint/book interface to the ground). Tri-bikes have kinda a funky fit so the bike frames are smaller then a normal road bike but still fit due to the aero bar risers, and generally pushed forward seating position.Do some research on bike fit, and learn about what size will fit you.Did some research on the mavic power tap. It's basically a wired computer and if it comes with the wiring harness, head, and wheel that should be enough.Here is a thread I found with 0 effort searchinghttps://weightweenies.starbike.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=105871You can winter train on any bike if you get a trainer that fits on the back. Spin bikes at the gym are more of a exercise machine, then riding a bicycle. However if you are good on the spin bike it will help. Particularly if you got good at using different muscles on the spin bike, that technique is paramount when riding long distances since you can use say your hamstrings and let your quads rest, then use your glutes and quads, then your calves, etc.Any road bike can be used at a triathlon, just that aero bikes with aero bars are faster, like the one you posted. However if the bike is way too big, or way too small a better fitting bike would be faster instead.
>someone beat me to the clueless boomer selling a vintage Rocky Mountain Fusion (likely with high-end Ritchey tubing) for $20ugh
>>2000428gotta go day of.>t. deal hunter
Is the twitter bike brand any reliable?
is a bike like this worth it? new to this city and haven't ridden a bike since i was a teenager, looking for something cheap that's simple to maintain. no hills in my neighborhood so think a single speed is fine
>>2001263Yea it'll do. $220 is too high though for some ones old beater. Unless that's got nice steel, which is something you don't care about if you want a cheap beater, max I'd pay is like $150 since it does have new hoods and saddle.
>>2000428are you saying you would have left the man oblivious and given him the 20 bux he asked for !?
>>2001263yeah it should be fine if you want to do track cycling. I mean doesn't the poetic and yet full of spelling errors description give away that this is a bad deal?Just get a normal bike or offer him 70
>>2001316I think its obvious this is a conversion, not a track bike.>>2001263They're asking too much. And consider getting something with a deraileur as your first bike, especially for this sort of money. If you want to go FG or SS make sure you get a bike that wasn born a SS and not squished down to be one.
>>2001263nah.Stem is too short and high which means the PO is unfit,old, or a retard.paintjob says mid to late 80'sAs the other anon said no gears, which is not a good thing.Vintage road bikes like that have great gearing for flat roads and take minimal work to keep running.Look for another one.
Guys I need a third bike. Should I go for my dream bike, and make my current bike my shitter, or should I buy a shitter and keep riding my sensible frugal bike as my main bike.The shitter I was looking for is in stock and it would be easy and I could just stop obsessing over this, but on the other hand, if I'm gonna spend $1800 I might as well just spend $7000 and get something I actually genuinely want, right? I've always gone through life buying shitters and regretting it. My life is littered with shitters. You might say I'm the shitter. On the other hand riding is how I avoid facing the slow moving multi-decade train wreck that is my life, maybe I should like, get my life together or something. Don't keep riding like a stupid animal every time I feel bad about my choices, about how I got here, about where I'm going, which is all the time, I don't know how to fix myself but I know how to numb the pain for a few hours.I'm a failure /n/, do I keep pedaling away from myself? I don't know what else to do. It's not like I'll be less of a fuckup if I don't do this. I think if I buy one more bike I can finally look at myself in the mirror and not be angry anymore.
>>2001263Columbias were low end department store bikes. That frame with chromed fork ends and braze ons is gonna be a nicer one, but that's nicer of shit. Actually the fork could well be a crash replacement, it doesn't exactly match, which would explain the SS conversion. I would look to see if that cream/white is exactly the same colour. Not something to pass on but a haggling point. The nutted seatpost clamp and steel post (that one possibly a replacement) gives it away as cheap also. Gonna be pretty low spec, heavy, steel tubing. Might still ride well, and if you like the paint, could be fine, but not worth real money and you could certainly do better. The sticker on the seat tube will say the tubing. It really depends on the quality/condition of the wheels and tires too, which is impossible to gauge from that pic. I'd say the person who set it up probably knew what they're doing because the cabling is nice.You've also got cartridge brake pads and modern levers. The braking looks like it's setup well, and that's the major thing needed to improve on old bikes.Aside from that it's definitely not decked out in fancy parts. It's also geared quite high, whether that's good or not, eh, but it will be awkward to cruise around slowly on. I think it could well be a nice bike, certainly worth a test ride, and you could offer $100-150 if you like it and the wheels are in actually good condition. Post your height and craigslist, lets see what else there is
>>2001313>nice steel, which is something you don't care about if you want a cheap beateruh what? I'd say that's a major thing to care about, not just because it gives you a lighter bike that might have a magic springy ride, but it signifies every other aspect of quality. >>2001322>If you want to go FG or SS make sure you get a bike that wasn born a SS and not squished down to be one....why? >>2001323>Stem is too short and high which means the PO is unfit,old, or a retard.Aesthetic fuckboy nonsense. Bars are below saddle height. Hoods are close to aligned over the front axle. A fit like that just means you ride in the drops more if you want an aggressive position. The reach on those bars is also quite long. It's perfectly valid for a SS/ beater conversion to have a flat or swept bar even, which would reduce the reach more than a short stem ever could. Have you ever talked to a noob about bicycles? Practically everyone has it in their heads that drop bars are way low and forward and hates riding that. That kind of quill stem is ideal for most casual riders to actually enjoy drop bars. Compare with pretty much every meme/alt bar setup and pic rel is extremely reasonable. >no gears, which is not a good thingwrong, just different>Vintage road bikes like thatit's not vintage>[look for a nice vintage road bike instead]lol ok, I don't disagree
>>2001336the brain chemicals you get from buying bikes and then having a fresh bike dissipate over time regardless of how nice the bike is, so there's no 'final' bike, and if you want to survive off those brain chemicals then you need to administer them for life, and it's better to portion your money into repeated purchases. As for what bikes you actually want and what kind of riding you actually want to do, be clear about your goals and what differences you think there actually will be. Of course fancier, lighter, and higher spec bikes are nicer to ride but that's normally not a huge difference. Overt problems, or, niggly things that you pretend are ok, with your current bikes, those are real things that you might upgrade away from, but it also begs the question, why can't you just fix those problems? It should be possible to fix all problems with any bike. The most important thing by far is fit, and having a bike that is comfortable/fast for you to ride as much as you want to ride it. That is also the major reason to change bikes and to ride many different bikes, to learn what works for you.
>>2001263so yeah, basically, to adjust that seatpost clamp you need two spanners. It's also a steel post so it's a ~100-200 gram weight penalty, and it won't flex to absorb road buzz like a nice alluminium one piece post does. It's also a nut to put the seat up and down, maybe the bolt is notched and fits into a slot in the frame, so, one spanner. still spanners are way fucking heavier than allen keys. A nice bike, even from the 80s, will be adjusted by allen keys (except probably the crank bolt). Definitely to put the seat up/down, and forward/back. When you see nuts for wrenches, it's a sign of a cheap, low quality, department store bike. It's extremely rare to see a bike that is vintage, with old standards, (pre 80s) and actually nice.
>>2001355>steel postbrutally low end. >>2001336Desire of n+1 is a strong drug. I tell myself each bike I buy takes time away from riding my old bike, and it's currently working.Sounds like you should stop buying shitters though if you have always been buying them and regretting. Each bike i get I do my best to enjoy them and I generally do.
>>2001322I think It's obvious It was sarcasm
I know you guys say not to buy Walmart. But I'm having a hard time with fb marketplace. Thoughts on Ozark Trail 700C G.1 Explorer Gravel Bike?
>>2001624I'd buy one without a second thought to go anywhere around the city not fearing it being stolen. Something remotely close in germany costs around 500€ in Decathlon.
>>2001626I was thinking exactly that,,, you murigans don't know how good you have it with these low budget walmart bikes. They are the perfect choice for someone who just wants to try. You can't navigate the used market without knowing a lot about bikes this is my opinion. I get it, these cheap bikes kinda makes you want to revolt to these cheap imports and discover old steel frames and forgotten bike parts, but someone that wants to learn about bikes needs just something like this walmart bike imho
>>2001636this bike just came out. it does seem decent, but the other bikes these department stores carry are not worth riding.
>>2001624Shit man desu if you really can't figure out your used market, you could do worse. I've heard good things about those LTwoo shifters consider their price. Yea I would NEVER touch it with a 10 foot pole but that's cuz id rather have an old roadie or something. But if you dgaf and want a beater it'll do.
>>2001624I would rather buy a different used bike like a vintage mtb, but the ozark walmart bikes are pretty good. So not a bad play.
I haven't had a bike since I was 13, are disc brakes a luxury thing?
>>2001706They are just a thing. Good part is they are great in wet weather. Bad news is they go ting, ting once in a while and it's freaking annoying.
>>2001706Yea I'd consider them so. Unless you get nice ones it's a compromise. Like most cyclists, I've ridden various rim brakes in various conditions and not died. i've also had bad experiences with bad brakes, rim AND disc. Overall the performance of disc brakes is overblown, true hydraulics are excellent but mech disc are often middling. I've got some ultegra dual pivots which make me cum, and some tektro mechs which make my pussy dry. One think you can't downplay is the tire clearance. I'll take mediocre disc brakes over canti's any day.
any tips on a good gravel bike with a wide range of gears and not too heavy for around 2k euro?
This is what I bought. Never heard of this brand, but beats the Walmart bike, right? $100
>>2001807That IS a Walmart bike. I know this because my dad has the same one, and he bought it at Walmart. Walmart bikes are underrated though. They're fine for their intended use: casual riding. As long as they were assembled correctly. Not worth doing major upgrades/repairs though. When I first got into bikes as an adult, I had a cheapo Walmart-tier shit bike and ended up fucking up the BB, at that point I just upgraded to a name-brand. Ultimately it lasted me a good 4 years and several thousand miles without major issues. 4 years of riding on my $200 bike is pretty economical.I'd recommend liberally upgrading the pedals/seat/grips, possibly handlebars.. That way, if you get a nicer bike down the road, you can just swap those parts out onto the new bike.
>>2001810Fuck you're right. It's a Walmart bike. I couldn't make out the logo brand name. But yeah I'll keep in mind everything else you posted.
Asking 260. Thought?Kona Splice.
Which type of bike should I buy if I'd like to commute around? 700cc road bike? I'm planning on 10 mile commute every day for hobby classes.
>>2001827>Asking 260260 real dollars? Leaf dollars? Euros? Or something else entirely?>>2001881>700cc road bike?If you want to go fast sure. But make sure to get one with enough clearance for 28mm and up tires since if you're more casual you wont want to sacrifice all the comfort (read as no vintage steel bike). Unless you need to haul something with you for your hobby classes. Then get something with a rack.
>>2001949>(read as no vintage steel bikemy jap road bike from '87 has 32s on it AND full fenders, and it's not even a touring model.you have a point but it was the 90s roadies that were exclusively on skinnies . before then you have to check , they may or may not have wide clearance
Hello, I am 5'9" and I am going to be using the bike for commuting and weekend bike packing.Link to local Craigslist:https://southjersey.craigslist.org/search/bia#search=1~gallery~0~84Would a older style mountain bike be fine for this?1) https://southjersey.craigslist.org/bik/d/toms-river-trek-820-mtn-bike/7754668754.html2) https://southjersey.craigslist.org/bik/d/toms-river-trek-hybrid-bike/7755036788.html3) https://southjersey.craigslist.org/bik/d/audubon-gary-fisher-wahoo/7755041452.htmlSaw a couple nice road bikes on there as well, but don't know if they work for bike packing.
the LBS where I am on vacation has a bunch of vintage eye-talian race bikes with fancy groupsets and wheels that were state of the art in like 1997. should I get one or just stick with my plans of buying another current-year shitter? I've never had a high end roadbike from the 90s
>>2002272There can be this absolutely magic light springy feel to the ride of a nice classic race bike. If the bike is expensive it better have nice wheels. Don't buy something with tubulars unless the shop offers to re-lace with clincher rims cheaply. I would stay away from early dura ace as it is has its own meme cable pull and spacing. I would also stay away from low end campagnolo 8 speed as it also has its own cable pull, and is not worth it for plastic components considering how rare it is now. Don't get a bike with campy ergos that has a plastic shift paddle, ie, avanti, mirage, veloce. There were a few different itterations of many of the low end campy groups so some veloce groups have some near identical features to campy record, but either way you're being locked into buying $80 shit bottom brackets, unobtanium cassettes in only a few ratios (none very wide), and a specific rear freehub that is not compatible with shit, and more! A way to tell mileage on a group is the wear on the rubber hoods. the best vintage groupset is shimano 600 tricolor, with indexed 7 speed downtube shifters, and dual pivot brakes. Beautiful hubs, plentiful and cheap cassettes, bottom brackets, and compatible with 7 speed everything else. Old STI shifters are typically gummed up and require a flush and relube, and new hoods and a recable. A good shop may have done this but if the shifting isn't great then I wouldn't really want to pay much. It's a cunt of a job and it doesn't always work. If you want STI it's probably better to get a newer bike, or, start with a cheaper project.
>>2002272post some pics of them
>>2002264Those are alright but they're all pretty bottom spec with riveted cranksets. The gary fischer and the black/red trek both have shit steel seatposts. The blue one is alright. Still, gripshift... You have some solid other options:https://southjersey.craigslist.org/bik/d/pitman-specialized-bike/7752601024.htmlI would get this. This will make an EXCELLENT commuter / tourer and can be modified in many different directions. It has mid-fork bosses for a front rack. The sugino triple is really nice spec for touring and it looks in mint unridden boomer e-bike upgrade condition. This, an actually good mtb is your other solid choice. If by 'bikepacking' you mean riding rough trails. https://southjersey.craigslist.org/bik/d/pennsauken-trek-6700-mtb-mountain-bike/7754590435.htmlhttps://southjersey.craigslist.org/bik/d/pitman-1990s-trek-400-made-in-usa/7752603360.htmlThis is the nicest road bike, although the suntour spec is old/cheap/rare and not great. You could tour on this bike, it has bosses for a rear rack. https://southjersey.craigslist.org/bik/d/glassboro-jamis-hybrid-bike-car-rack/7743519431.htmlhttps://southjersey.craigslist.org/bik/d/sicklerville-cannondale-m300-le-26/7752644785.htmlhttps://southjersey.craigslist.org/bik/d/wildwood-bicycle/7748865791.htmlCheaper options. These frames are all quite nice, the jamis has tange mtb tubing, the spesh is butted cromo, although they all still have pretty cheap / low end parts on them. These would be worth upgrading. https://southjersey.craigslist.org/bik/d/brigantine-gt-timberline-fs-mountain/7754482950.htmlthis is a mid-tier bike, should be decent with some cruisier bars / pedals and an overhaul. There are a lot of very cheap bikes on your craigslist. Lots of poors. Maybe also look at rich towns if you ever drive there.
>>2002272A vintage road bike will always beat a current year shitter IF it fits with your goals.What I look for are forged drop outs, downtube shifters, 32-36 spoke clincher/non tubular wheels, and the right size.I agree with everything this anon says.>>2002306If your goals are riding rough pavement or stump pulling gears get a vintage mtb/current year shitter. If your goals are going fast, feeling quick, and having fun on roads a vintage road bike will fit the bill. One secret tip for a more comfy ride is carbon seatposts, or suspension seatposts. May be blasphemous to many but it really helps sometimes.
>>2002306>>2002321the main thing is the 700-23 which looks like an absolute medieval torture device. I rode those in the late '00s and I don't really have a favorable view of such thin tires anymore after getting used to steamrolling little potholes and never flatting, ever, plus I'm not totally convinced that these noodly old frames are enough to make up for the horrible ride.but they look so nice I just don't know maybe I'm too old to be a fashion victim at this point. I had a vintage watch phase and after switching to a modern grand onionsko with 100m wr I can shower with every day I never want to go back to those needy delicate things where if it starts to rain I had to start worrying, sure my watch doesn't "tell a story" but who has the energy for that shit.
>>2002333lots of nice old road bikes fit 28mm tires and you probably had some retardo fit going on too
>>1993003>https://goodcalculators.com/bike-size-calculator/well, that makes me feel warm and fuzzy; I had to set my height 3.5" shorter to select my inseam (I am 5'10" and 29")I looked at the calculator's source code and found that height wasn't a factor in the result so with the inseam correct, it says 17 mountain, 19.5 road, and 19 for city/trekkingwhat is a cruiser? city?I am a guy, always rode bmx shaped bikes as a child and want to get a bike as an adult (haven't ridden in effectively 2 decades)I am looking at a schwinn super 7, it's a 17" frame according to the ad; this particular one is appealing as it's got 7 speeds and a coaster brake listed at 135; I didn't even know speeds with coaster brakes were a thing until last week when I decided to look into getting a bikealso, logically an important detail may be that I am ~275lbs
>>2002333I had a 1980 Panasonic that fit 35c, it's not that crazy, though you probably aren't getting a racing frame with such great clearance.Why would you want to shower with your watch on anyway? Rain should be fine for vintage watches, it's not like rain didn't exist back when they were made. I know mine have fogged up under the crystal and been fine afterwards.
>>2002333All I can say is many of my bikes have 700x23 tires and I just run padded shorts+comfy seat or padded shorts+suspension seatpost. Works great, and I like how they sound at 100+psi singing along. I do have decent roads, and for big impacts I just stand up a little.All of my 80's bikes can fit 25's, some can fit 28's or 30's. I got a cx bike for more tire clearance, but I haven't been riding it much.Generally if I want comfy I take my 90's mtb, or full suspension bike.Maybe watch some vintage velo videos or just go to the shop every once in a while to see if the bikes peak your interest. If not, get something else, but I used to be a 28mm+ or bust type of guy 3 years ago.Oh, and I find my tools/bikes/items have the best stories when I make the memories with them. So modern items are good for that, since eventually they get old too.>>2002338>5'10 29 in inseamMy dad has that build. All his pants were hemmed for office duty.He ran the tallest bike he could for more reach, since reach goes up with taller bikes. However with your BMX background, and different preferences that may not be required. I always recommend just getting on the bike and riding it around a little, don't need your optimal seat height. Cruiser bikes are comfortable bikes you ride like on the beach or just "cruising" around. Good if you are on flat ground and want a upright seating posture. City bikes are kinda like hybrids where they sit you a little more leaned over, but still very comfortable and more maneuverable in the city. City bikes are a great choice for a do it all bike.As a first bike after 2 decades the schwinn super 7 is a good choice, as long as you don't plan on scaling massive hills all the time.At 275 the gears will be a good idea, and you will want a comfortable bike, you can always get something else later, but right now you want comfort so you can get in the habit.
>>1995867Topstone easily.
>>1996755yeah i don't get this either, i've been riding bikes for most of my life and i've never used the cassette, always setting it to the top cogdo people actually do fine adjustments?
>>2002343Rain existed but water resistance was actually shit but it was offset because watch repair was an ordinary thing people got locally for cheap, adjusted for inflation you could fuck up your watch and fix it for the price of 2 dinners at a mediocre restaurant, nowadays that's 3 dinners at a michelin 3-star and it goes back to switzerland for 6 months and then USCS steals it on the way back, no appeals allowed, because Rolex S.A. told them anything crossing borders is automagically fake. But even a dive watch back then was like 30m WR and if you fucked it up because you went too long before new gaskets it was no biggie, much like bikes, watches have gotten insanely good and we just take it for granted except for retrodouches who romanticize grubby fragile garbage that is a nightmare to live with>>2002345> I do have decent roads, and for big impacts I just stand up a little.I guess that works if your roads are completely empty and there's nothing else to pay attention to other than the actual road surface and you have unlimited room and time to maneuver, brake, shift your weight around, and do whatever else it takes to be fully comfy at all times. I have a trail like that on an old railroad right of way, which I take sometimes, and it's comfy. But for road riding where there's trucks and fucked up soft shoulders and other cyclists and traffic signals, I'd rather not have to spend all my energy trying to minimize anal jackhammering. Guess I answered my own question there, it's another shitter for me
https://www.ghost-bikes.com/int-en/asket-advanced/Is this a good bike? I like the looks and seeing it being an affordable hydraulic 1x drive line
>>2002501I like it.Especially the paint, frame design, and decent cable routing(not through headtube).
>>2002502Is it hard to swap the handle bar and head tube?
>>2002503Handlebars are easy enough to swap, but a ton of fancy roadbikes have cables going through the headset, and I have heard thats a pain in the ass, I also don't like the tight cabling that occurs with that design.The ghost is more conventional. Cables still go through the frame and fork.
>>2002503You're probably refering to the bars and stem.Yes, since this is a threadless or 'ahead' stem and fork they are very easy to swap and you don't even need to wrap the handle bars every time.Keep in mind the type of bars the manufacturer chose often are appropiate for the type of bike. Changing the stem is part of fitting the bike to you and within reason has no adverse effects. One could say you're expected to change the stem.Also keep in mind that depending on what bars you want to put on it the brifters will not be suitable and need changing too. This starts to be costly and some people do not enjoy working on hydraulics.
>>2002504I ordered it
>>2002507Well, hope you like it and ride it tons.
>>2002508>Well, hope you like it and ride it tons.I hope so too, I will ride it a lot since I enjoy biking. My only concern is that it won't be too heavy nor too hard for me to climb on steep hills
>>1993003Hi /n/! Yuropoor here. I'm looking for an upgrade to my 2012 Gepida. My only problem is that the gear range (3x8) is limiting on both climbs and descents (I start at 3x5, and spin out on light descents, while can't climb like shit even on 1x1), and it's not compatible with either disc brakes or front panniers. What I'm looking for is > 450%+ gearing> front panniers> drop bars> mechanical disc brakes > steel frame with many hardpointsI mostly want to use the bike for commuting (40 km a day with, mostly flat), shopping (that's the main reason for the bikepacking kit), and light touring (day trips ~100 km with 2-300m elevation, and that's why I want drop bars, because doing centuries on flats seem tiring, and I feel in a constant face wind)My budget is €1000-€1500, but lower is better. I'll just upgrade later like my trusty Gepida. For a frameset, I can pay €750 then get it kitted out. (Probably claris at my price point).> decathlon I'm looking at the riverside 520 and 900. the 900 is nice, but it's at the top end of my budget and has flat bars (upgrade to drops is possible, the same frame is sold with drops as a road bike as the 920 with sram kit at €2000), and I think that brooks is overpriced and over memed. One down is the 520 with hydraulic brakes and still flat bars for €900 which looks decent as a base. Even though it's 1x, it has a sub 1:1 granny gear, but it would spin out at any serious speed downhill.> kona sutraThere is the sutra SE at €1600 (thanks trade war), but it has both deore kit and a brooks saddle, both of which are far beyond what I would spend on today. But reading how much sutras are memed, it would take me to the end of the world and back.> surlyWhat I could reach here in yurop would be surly's entry level, so prologue, not even a disc trucker> usedThe used scene is limited to face chan here. I wouldn't be asking 4chan, if I was on adbook
Never heard of diamond back. Are they a reputable brand? Walmart bike?
>>2002805it was a somewhat cool brand in like the 80s, nowadays it's basically a walmart brand
>>2002805Here is the lowdown.>80'sdiamondback was owned by WSI(western state imports) and used mostly japanese lugged or taiwanese welded frames.The diamondback TIG series road bikes are good, the mountainbikes ranged from cheap, to good.Fast forward too today and they make some nice mountainbikes, but make cheap ones too.They also made bmx bikes.So it really matters what model you are looking at.
>>2002805Formerly a good brand that has been cheapened down to a Walmart quality shitbike in the last 20 years. Similar to what's happened to Mongoose, Schwinn, Nishiki, etc.
Thoughts on Vivi ebikes? 500 for a brand new one seems a good deal no?
>>2002813>ebikeAre you elderly, obese, or do you have a disability?
>>2002815I'm 97 years old and have an artificial heart, if I pedal more than 30 seconds at a time I can lose consciousness and crash, ha ha just kidding I'm just a 30 year old hamplanet (375 pounds)
>>2002817Do yourself a favor and get a real bike and lose weight.
>>2002819I have $500 so I'm not poor like you
I'm gonna go see this guy who has way too many bikes for sale. They might be stolen lmao. Which brands should I consider? HE posted a trek that doesn't look bad.
I'm looking for a bike for commuting and a casual bikepacking trip this summer. Height is 189cm, about 6'2". Would prefer a steel frame but not necessary. Appreciate any suggestions as I haven't been able to find much. Here's my local craigslist equivalent:https://www.kleinanzeigen.de/s-berlin/fahrrad/k0l3331
>>1998687>I think it would be best to buy a bicycle in person, at a store that will also service and maintain the bike.be aware that bike shops rip u off hard and u can get the exact same products for <1/2 price elsewhere>muh local businesses!sure but these faggots deserve literally every trinket in bike shops is stupid expensive
I'm unironically considering buying the Ozark Trail 700C G.1 Explorer Gravel Bike.
>>2002826any non-department store brand in a size that fits you
>>2002890The fact that they managed to ship brifters at that price point is impressive, but it doesn’t look good at all.
Is this ok for a budget ebike?https://www.walmart.ca/en/ip/700c-hyper-36volt-black/6000205706963$400 is the max I'm willing to spend. I know walmart is a shit but If I have to spend more than that for an ebike then I'm priced out
>>200289932km runtime is weak, but it probably won’t burn you house down.
Are the Aliexpress Aventon Mataros legit? I wish I could still get one of these because they're so sexy. Guess I could always buy used regarless.
>>2002918I had a chinese alloy fixed gear, looks similar. Very very nice bike, but too small for me.
>>2002609Check posiden, they're selling drop bar gravel bikes for $500
At what point do you consider buying a brand new bike over a used/cheap/Walmart?
>>2002977for me it was when i wanted the new tech. all road / "gravel" geometry, wider tires, and disc brakes were not an option on older bikes. i had a great time on my steel 10 speed, but i haven't regretted getting a modern bike.
I had no idea Panasonic was still making bikeshttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=STmZdGNVil0&ab_channel=%E3%83%97%E3%83%AD%E3%82%BB%E3%82%B9Xkino
>>2003013>new tech. all road / "gravel" geometry, wider tireswtf does gravel geometry even mean dude? higher bars? You think that is a new idea?>>2002977If i had $1200+
>>2002977The good and old bone rattler setup
Which bike should I get if I want to travel long distances, quickly, and comfortably?
>>2003094"all-road"bike or gravel bike with room for decent volume tires in the 32-40 range. With a emphasis on comfort.
Question for those with some experience selling bikes.I'm looking to sell one of my bikes. What kind of photos do you take to make it look as attractice as possible? Detail shots?
>>2003118>detail shotsyes but don't post a bunch of bullshit closeups that don't even depict anything which mattersshow the bars/controls, the drivetrain, the hubs, any stickers on the frame saying the tubing or size, the brakes and condition things like the brake track and rips on the saddle if you can. Main photos from the driveside
>>2003120Thanks G
>>2003118The most important thing 100% is to list the frame size, preferably with the manufacturer's rider height for that size. I've seen a lot of nice used bikes on Facebook marketplace/craigslist that I would otherwise be interested in, but the seller either doesn't list/doesn't know the frame size, so I don't waste me time driving out somewhere to look at a bike that most likely won't fit me.
>>2003118Buyer here. The less information you post and worse pictures the lower the price better be.Especially if you do some lazy shit like "road bike"or using a component as the name of the bike.Clean, pictures with a tape measure, and posting in FB, craigs, offerup do a lot to sell a bike.Do realize when the bikes are really tall, or really short they are harder to sell.t. deal hunter
>>2003094Step through frame with suspension forks + carbon rims, kevlar bead tires + TPU inner tubes
>>2003146Something like this
>>2003146likeaa dis ? sorry bout the missing sus fork.
I just ordered a cannondale trail 5. Seemed like a good bike for me. Will be riding on foothill trails, light gravel, and around town. Thoughts on the bike?
>>2003185buyers remorse ? just enjoy your bike .
>>2003186You are French.
>>2003187fucking homosexual
>>2003186Are you retarded or just esl? I'm just asking for any insight if there is a better choice
>>2003068>wtf does gravel geometry even meanUsually means compliance and structural strength over aero or weight
(you)>>2003193and (you)>>2003187go fuck yourself.What's the point in placing an order for a bike and asking afterwards. I can only repeat: Enjoy your bike. Asshole. And other replies could only serve to give anon doubts and second thoughts, ultimately ruining new bike day for him.Now go suck your moms dick in hell, both of (you). Retards.
>>2003185>cannondale trail 5Looks fine, If you are doing technical descents mark the seatpost somehow before. Then use the Quick release seatclamp for more fun and safer riding.How we used to do it BITD.
>>2003215Because you can cancel it and order something else
>>2003216I've never understood this why not just stand when you climb
>>2003215Damn frenchies
>>2003215Now that the frog has been found out he returns to normal punctuation. Interesting.
>>2003233Hill could be too long/steep, could suck at standing, or it you could be a full suspension bike with soft suspension that sucks at standing.You are right, particularly if you can carry speed you can just stand up the next hill.
Ok lads, Im looking for a used bike to replace my fatass of a bike so I can actually carry her up the stairs. What I want in a bike:>Light weight>Straight bars, cause i dont like the look or function of drop bars>a somewhat comfortable riding position>a gear cover, or maybe not I just don’t want to catch my trousers in the teeth or the chain>a kickstand>lights, to see shit at night>mud guardsOf course not all of these need to come with it, like the lights and mud guards I can add later, but some suggestion for light set up and the type of bike that can take mudguards.Also I’m not a fat ass, and will be riding it around the city but also getting on curbs which sometimes have a bit of height to them, and the roads and sidewalks can be kinda fucked, eg potholes, misaligned/broken/missing bricks or tiles or whatever.Any suggestions for what I should get?
>>2003306>Any suggestions for what I should get?I assume you're looking to buy new. Essentially look for 'hybrids' from a reputable manufacturer (Cannondale, Trek, etc). You can get models with or without suspension forks depending on your prefence. Mudgaurds, kickstands and lights usually don't come installed from the factory but virtually all of them come with the necesarry mounting points to retrofit them as well as racks.Currently you will find that bikes are often discounted so look for one you like and can get a good deal on. I'd also advise to test ride it if possible to avoid the hassle if you have to return it and make sure you actually enjoy it.
Do any of you know about Kawamirura?
>>200330690s mountain bike with road tires
>>2003347kawamura is a bike maker from japan in the 80/s 90's.It's a nishiki.Look at more of the pictures, but it seems to be a 58 or 60cm, dt shifters, and is probably an okay buy at that price.Nishiki is now owned by walmart or dicks sporting goods, used to be decent bikes back when this one came out.Guessing it's shimano 105, or a suntour groupset
>>2003306A single speed made with quality wheels and frame would be a light spiffy bike, but might cost more than you'd want
>>2003353>shimano 105, or a suntour groupsetThose pedals are 100% Shimanos so my bet is on 105.>>2003354Wrong.
>>2003259you 're a whore .
>>2003404Good catch on the pedals. I have a pair on a crank in a box, but I haven't looked at them much and never used them.
>>2003310>I assume you're looking to buy newI said "looking for a used bike".>>2003352Trek 8000? What tires should I get, heard somewhere around 30 is a nice sweetspot, I want it to be comfortable and stable, and I hear wider tires also have a lower rolling resistance.>>2003354Not going fixie, dunno they seem like a hipster thing, but tell me what you think of them, isn't it nice to be able to adjust gears and have hand activated breaks? Also what wheels do you run, looking at a trek 8000
>>2003408A foxed gear does not necessitate the absence of brakes .If you have a hand full of bikes get a fixed gear, like everyone eventually . Get something 'normal' and average for your first bike .
>>2003412>A foxed gear does not necessitate the absence of brakes .Yeah but I don't want to fiddle with them I want something that is more or less ready to go and fixies seem to mainly come without breakes + having to get adjusted to a different kind of riding.
>>2003414You want brakes on a fixed gear bike, mostly for cars or long downhills.>>2003408I recommend 40-50mm tires for comfy bad road/offroad riding. 32's are fine, but are more speed focused.larger does not equal faster all the time. It's based on road conditions,aerodynamics, and your speed.
>>2003416>larger does not equal faster all the time.Yeah but I thought itty bitty tires were the fastest and with least roll resistance. The one I'm looking at has 1.95 tires, so it's around there, and I don't plan on changing them unless they're run into the ground. I ask this above already but can you fit 28 inch tires on a 26 inch tire mtb? Are 28 inchers that much better?
I looked in the trek 90s catalog and they give a weight for each model. Is that the total weight with wheels inflated and everything?
>>2003417thin tires are the best for velodrome, or very smooth tarmac/bitumen/asphalt.I have 28mm tires on a mtb. it feels quite a bit more "zippy" then my 1.9in tires on another bike.However the 1.9's are comfy and not too slow for me.These are the 28's.>>2003418yes, but probably a medium size frame.
>>2003416Not him but what wheel size is too fat? Fat wheels are overhyped nowadays...
>>2003420No wheel size is too fat, there is just unoptimal sizes for your goal.Like running a fat bike on a smooth road. That sound you are hearing? that's wasted energy.or riding a road bike with 20mm tires offroad. All that bouncing and jarring impact is paintfull.So you need to figure out what is right for you. For most riders anything from 28-40 or 50 makes sense for the road. Thinner is faster, but more jarring on bad impacts. Fatter is slower but more comfy.
>>2003419Are those mud guards good? They are quite far from the wheel so I wonder if things can get past it.Yeah well looks like I'm going to be going with thicker tires for comfort since the bike won't have a suspension and I want to keep it light. Do you know if some mtbs with 26 can support getting bigger tires to 28, or are all frames made at the limit? Are 28s that much better than 26 around the city?
>>2003416>40-50mmIs 1.9 around there? Don't know if the conversion is direct unit conversion that's why I'm asking.
>>20034451.9 is like 47mm >>2003444The front mudgaurd works good enough, rear does as well, but I can move it down too.Was mostly for the wet roads at that time and I stayed high and dry.You can't fit 28's as in a larger diameter, but you can fit 2.0in(50mm) tires. 26x2.0. continental speed contacts, schwalbe big apple, wtb thickslick, etc,etc all come in 26in.As long as you have a mountain bike.
>>2003419Does your pant ever get caught in the chain? Can you add a guard to most bikes?
So I'm looking to buy a used bike and want to know about how important the size of the frame is, which measurements should I watch out for, which are more important and how much can I get by by raising the seat if the ST is short, and how does that change the ride?
>>2003450Most important is stack height/headtube, reach/toptube length.Then, it's seat tube length.It's 2024, and most frames can be adapted to fit you if they aren't way too big, or way too small.However, going outside the normal range of sizing changes things. So if a bike has a short toptube, you need a long stem. Longer the stem is much past 120mm the more over the front of the bike you are and the slower steering. Reverse is true much under 80mm stem, you sit far behind the front end and it feels twitchy.With a too low stack you need a riser stem/quill stem which looks funky, but is okay. Tall quill stems are more flexy which you can feel if you are a bigger guy sprinting/standing.Too short a seattube just means you need a long seatpost. Longer the post the more it flexes so you might get a more comfy ride.Check your height and cycling inseam(stick book hard up against taint/crotch. Measure from top of book to ground) and I can give you a general size guide depending on what type of bike.
>>2003452How do I size it if it's old? I'm looking at an old trek mtb so they have shorter ST than regular commuter bikes now but longer than a modern mtb. What do?
>>2003456top tube length.Seat tube almost doesn't matter, stack/headtube length can be compensated with a tall stem.Average man would want 56-58cm top tube. If you are short(torso/short arms) look for less. If you have long arms+long torso look for more.18in seat tubes are mediums, 20in large16.5in is smol/xs smol 21+in is XL
>>2003457>top tube lengthEffective or along the tube? And how do you know by how much to adjust the handlebars and the seat so you have the proper posture?
Didn't cop and it's gone ; _ ;
>>2003486effective, and even then you can adjust to make it fit, so most mtb's can fit most people.
>>2003518Wish I knew that a few hours ago >:(
>>2003522Search high and low, if there is a big city/location nearby peruse that area too.Bikes come and go, most good deals in my area last 0-5 days.
>>2003523I have, but really fucked this one up, it was so meant to be, now I have to go back to hoping the heavens sent something else, you know how it is
Any recommendations for where I can get a non-vintage (preferably newly manufactured) lugged steel frame for <$1K?
>>2003555Glock ($500), some bullets ($20) and a ski mask ($30), and lurk next to a heavily traveled bike path for a day or two
>>2003555I mean surly frames are technically luggedAre you against used? No reason you couldn't cop a mid tier 202X frame from any number of manufacturers on eBay for that priceWould it be worth it? No. But you wanted it
I want to maybe start biking to my gym but I just want something dirt cheap to see if I'll like it.I don't know shit about bikes and haven't ridden one since I was a little kind. This one looked good and I think trek is a good brand but the handlebars look rustyIs there anything I should keep an eye out for when I inspect used bikes? Or is at a price range of 80 dollars and below should I just be happy if it rides without any weird noises and the gears shift for the most part
>>2003591Suspension is something you want to avoid on old bikes. There's too much that can go wrong and there's very little reason to have it in the first place.That said, $80 is pretty cheap. If it fails you can just chuck it in a dumpster and move on.
