80's Japanese randonneur gf editionResources:https://www.sheldonbrown.com/https://www.parktool.com/en-us/blog/repair-helpPrevious thread: >>1998961
Do people really not autistically map out each and every part on a new bike with MSRP to compare the price/upcharge that you’re paying on the frame anymore? That used to be extremely valuable knowledge
>>2000844>80's Japanese randonneur gfphwoarrr
Guy with the 2023 Trek FX1 here On my first proper ride today, was going to do 20km but decided to do more. Rode to my two favorite bakeries. Got an Australian cream chicken pie and English apple pie. And a nice energy drink cocktail.
>>2000852Not really because I automatically discount the nonmatched gruppos. And Ive set my mind on 105. So Im trying to get the best 105 carbon road bike for the price from a reputable brand. The best bang for the buck frames in the peloton sold in USA equipped with 105 gruppo is either the Giant TCR or the Orbea Orca. I havent taken the drive to my orbea dealer but they e got last years bronze tcr for 1999 usd. Almost pulled the trigger on a whim last week. Spring is always the best time for bike deals.
>>2000865>crack a monney timenice>>2000852I either buy used and a cool bike I like, or buy new a cool bike I like.I have learned most of the stuff made today above BSO tier is good enough for me, and some things I don't like which scale with fancier groupsets like e-shifting, LOUD freehubs, integrated bullshit, etc.Thus, I stay in my pre2k bike lane for road bikes.
>>2000867>>2000865The biggest problem I had on this ride was people walking on the bike path.The majority of the ride there is a bike path and a walking path next to each other. They are very clearly marked. I almost hit an old man who suddenly did a 90° turn and walked directly onto the bike path without looking. The complete lack of spatial awareness is ridiculous.This was also the day after I did squats last night. So I am happy that I managed to exceed my goal of a 20 kilometer average speed despite these difficulties. But I think I should have just stuck to 20 kilometers from my first real ride.I will do some small rides during the week and then do a 30 km ride next weekend.
>>2000868Someone who is roughly ahead of you but still a rookie myself - there is no difference between 20 and 35km. There is a lot more difference between 35 and 50.
How to cope with having short legs and never being able to raise my saddle up high like all the cool kids? Tiny bike?
>>2000882Yes. Also short headtubes.>picrel a bike of minet. leglet
>>2000865>>2000868Why does the Internet recommendation algorithm keep showing me white men riding bicycles in South Korea? I watched that Hitch guy riding the Korean Grand Slam tour (I think that's what it's called) on Twitch, then on YouTube I somehow get this suspiciously rich Rivendell collector British guy in Seoul in the feed, and now you're posting your rides in Ulsan.
>>2000866I'm also looking in that segment. Interested to hear your impressions if you get some test rides in--I didn't think about Orbea at all. Polygon has some pretty good deals on paper if you're willing to get down like that.>>2000882Long n low baby. Good build for aero.
>>2000865good one.you can use the daily ride thread for this kind of post in the future
>>2000905I've been here for years and I just like to say that soul is possibly the worst part of Korea...That is an exaggeration because the industrial areas around Seoul such as suwon are even worse.Outside of the capital city area South Korea is a beautiful amazing country with great food when they are not busy covering everything in Spanish chili pepper sauce.But with your algorithm I would say that South Korea has become a popular destination because it has a very affordable economy and the popularity of K-pop has driven a lot of people into learning some surface level things about Korea.Biking is very well supported in South Korea with bike parts along every major river and it is literally possible to ride on bike paths from one side of the country to the other
>>2000918I did not know that thread existed and I will use that in future
>>2000919>it is literally possible to ride on bike paths from one side of the country to the otheroh, man. sounds like paradise. clueless peds are universal, unfortunately . start riding like every car is intentionally trying to kill you and don't make a move until it's clear what they're going to do (e.g. they may not be signaling a turn, but wait until they pass the turn until you cross the intersection. usually just coasting for a second is all you need.) likewise, pretend every ped is going to do what happened to you. if you can go wide, do that. if you can't, slow and say "I'm passing" or whatever and pass on whatever side car traffic does in Korea (i.e. left in the US).if you gamify it like this, you're always safe and it does get easier and faster once you know what to look for
>>2000918...Just another anon with the makings of a JannyDon't worry bud, you'll get that pay raise, once your application is accepted
Rear derailleur for single speed bike?Anyone with experience with above? I know the original saint, and hone, are axle mounted, so should work fine (bolt thru hub). will any direct mount work?
>>2000927What the fuck is your primary language cause it sure isn't English
>>2000918Hall monitor energy, go get laid loser
>>2000930are you legally retarded or just a dumb school dropout?
>>2000927I think maybe you're asking if you could use a rear derailer as the chain tensioner for a single speed bike? If so, the answer is you can but it's definitely not ideal since the derailer is needlessly bigger, heavier, and more complex than a simple tensioner.
>>2000927if you're looking to convert a single speed to multi, the big thing is a derailleur mount for horizontal fork ends. I haven't done it myself but I've thought about converting one before
>>2000934no, my guy, I'm asking about using a rear derailleur as an actual rear derailleur.I know the original saint, and the hone, are axle, not hanger, mounted (picrel), so they should work fine on a bolt thru hub.I'm wondering if any other (shimano direct mount, or sram uhd) will also work, maybe with some adaptation.
>>2000939it's not horizontal, it's diagonal
>>2000945it's diagonal on bikes designed with a derailleur in mind. Many single speeds have horizontal fork ends. The point isn't about horizontal or diagonal anyways, the main point is where to mount the derailleur on a singlespeed with no derailleur hanger designed into the frame.
>>2000947it's diagonal and single speed, with no hanger.the point is definitely about which one it is, as it'd need an adapter, since they'd have to be different.incidentally, the pic I posted above, has what could be called an adapter, but the derailleur is one ancient piece of kit.
>>2000943You realize that Saint and.hone and "probably" the brand names and not the part names?
>>2000950You don't have a singlespeed frame then, it was converted to singlespeed.
>>2000952what the actual fuck? you're not making any sense; do you even know what I'm talking about?>>2000954yeah, you definitely know what i have...
>>2000954You know nothing, Jon Snow.
>>2000943Yeah you should go buy a UDH hanger and sram transmission derailleur for your thru-bolt hub.This message is approved by /bqg/.
>>2000955You most ideal option is to walk into your nearest gas station, ask for a job, and about 4 weeks later go buy the bicycle you want
>>2000961i couldn't even if I wanted lol... uhd isn't an actual derailleur standard, my clueless retarded guy....; it's a hanger standard, lol it'd need adaptation, but might work.>>2000962yeah, and you should come with me so I'd turn you into a (barely) human torch...
>>2000955None of us know what you're talking about about esl
>>2000973You're too retard and I'm sorted already, so, yeah...
>>2000882stem max like my dad did. He was a 120-140+stem user.Heck, modern bikes are optimal for your build if you get a race bike fit. I think it looks stupid when I have 1ft of seatpost out and spacer city going on.>>2000927claw derailleur AKA cheapo derailleur.
>>2000991nah, got a chink adapter , instead
>>2001000didn't know they made those. Good to know.
>>2000927This is an interesting and common sort of /n/postYou first bring up high end and esoteric technology, direct mount derailers:https://www.pinkbike.com/news/a-brief-history-of-direct-mount-derailleurs.htmlI really don't know much about these, but the idea seems to be to add stiffness which will give more precise shifting, and now they're being widely adopted alongside different axle standards. Is there really such a difference between this 'direct mount' piece which is not even integral to the frame, and a derailer hanger? It's almost just semantics. Now, THIS, is an interesting discussion. But you want to have it through the lense of your nonspecific project, where you intend to modify a bike to be something which it is not (almost always a terrible idea). The truth comes out:>nah, got a chink adapter , insteadWhat you're actually going to do is default to 70s poverty technology, which, diametrically opposite to direct mount (intended to give increased stiffness and precise shifting), is instead going to give a 5 cent piece of stamped steel which flexes like crazy and incredibly annoying wheel installs. This is actually a realm where /n/ could help you or be interested in you actually posting you project, but you bought the whole thing up way out the other side of bike mechanics, for no real reason other than to pretend what you're doing is flash and confuse people. Someone did even post a superior version of what you're doing:>>2000939The nicer adapters from the fixie regret era, but i'm 95% certain that the ~$30 cost would be way beyond your budget, which is why you originally brought up $200 derailers.
>>2000927Also as an aside>>2000930>What the fuck is your primary language cause it sure isn't EnglishThis kind of 'why don't you speak english gud' post is pure cancer, and the native ability to speak english often only leads to more rambling and worse posts. How many fucking languages do you speak cunt?
>>2001003Well, you started off ok, but then you resorted to being a retard, so there...tl;dr:I don't give a fuck about your ponderous philosophical faggotry; I had a practical problem and found a cost-effective solution.Get stuffed.
>>2001004The only one that matters sweaty
>>2001012>SweatyWe wuz kangz 'n' sheat...
>>2001010There wouldn't be this whole shitstorm if you know how to communicate better. Nobody knew what the fuck you were asking for at the beginning and you found the answer yourself.>inb4 anon's derailleur hanger snaps and sucks their derailleur into their wheel
>>2001010>I had a practical problem and found a cost-effective solution.If you want to be straightforward and practical when asking for advice on /n/, actually post your bike.
>>2001015>Nobody>>2001016>I'm retardNo shit...
Would you go for a CAAD12, CAAD13, a TCR advanced 2, or something else altogether?I want a stiff, light frame that’s not too painful to ride around the city but that has a relatively aggressive geometry/is very agile and maneuverable. Should have disc brakes and clearance for 30mm tires. I’ll probably use 28mm ones but it’d be nice to have the option to go bigger. Should be easily available in the used market in the EU and should cost 1.5k max (built) or around 600-700 (frameset).Basically I want a daily that still gives me the confidence to do dumb shit, go as fast as I can around corners, evade stuff quickly while going fast downhill, and is light enough to not make going uphill a torture.I had a De Rosa Team/Milanino aluminum frame that was almost perfect for me after I built it with high end components, but I’d like something a bit newer and more versatile.
Is it easy to change the hub on the bike so I can add a 12 speed cassette?
>>2001038Give us some info. Is it a hub that they make different freehubs for?Does your bike have wide dropouts that are compatible with 12 speed freehubs?Can you shift 12 speeds with your current setup?Do you even need 12 speeds?If the company makes a 12 speed freehub, and you have a 8/9/10 then your bike may not fit the bigger freehub.Oh, and there are the 4 standards, shimano, shimano microspline, sram XDDDR, and campagnolo 12 speed.>>2001028Sorry, no idea. Too new for my knowledge, but cannondale should make decent alloy bikes since they have been at it for 40 years
>>2000930I think the bigger problem is you posting on a bicycle related board without understanding bicycle related terminology
>>2001039Sorry I am new with bike stuff and frankly just interested in making my bike look pretty with flashy cassette and chain.The hub I have is JOYTECH D762DSE it says max 10 speed cassette but my came with a 8 speed cassette
>>2001041it's not really possible to go from an older 8/9/10 speed hub to a 12 speed.Looks like this is on a MTB with qr's and 135mm axles.12 speed for road is 135mm, but for mtb is 142mm+ and are mostly 12mm thru axles.Thus it would be much easier if you want your bike to look flashy go on aliexpress and look for 8 speed oilslick cassettes and chain. Would immediately work on your current bike and current shifters.Anything else costs quite a bit more money.
>>2001042Odd that they added it to my gravel bike but I will look into aliexpress about the 8 speed cassette and chain one thing I am sad about my bike that I bought it doesn't shift as smoothly as my friends bike that uses 12 speed don't know what he has but my has claris shimano i think it said on the back side
>>2001044Shifting is based what your level your parts are, how they are setup, and your technique.1st, try and shift when you let up on your power. This is always a good habit, especially on the front chainring.2nd 8 speed can shift fine, but it is about 30-40 years old at this time so it may be missing some updates and upgrades that have occurredBeyond that make sure your derailleurs are setup well. If you hear any rubbing or your chain isn't staying in gear you need to adjust it. If you don't have these issues it could be the best it's going to get, unless you upgrade.Your setup can be upgraded to 9 or 10 speed if you want, it will cost you. You would need front right/rear brifters, rear derailleur, cassette, and chain.
>>2001039Yeah, the ‘dale caads seem like good bikes, but I’m not sure how nicer alloy frames compare to cheaper carbon frames such as the TCR advanced 2 nowadays. The latter is supposed to be pretty good. A while back “budget” carbon frames were supposedly shit though
>>2001045Both our bikes are brand new and there is no rubbing or anything like that but when I shift it sounds like my bike is dying and looking at youtube this seems like for anyone with my things while my friends bike doesn't make much noise when changing gear and goes smoothly wish I had the money to buy same bike as him
How do I stop my gears from skipping and grinding, at times? I don't honestly know what's causing it because as far as I can see/feel/etc everything is lined up fine, the switchers click through all gears like normal, etc. I made sure to hose it down and everything too. But when I'm riding I'll be in gear then all the sudden it like jams up and grinds then skips up or down gears on its own and I have to at worst stop and switch it back by hand. Outside of shelling bucks out at a shop to get it fixed or replaced what can I do?
>>2001047In that case the best you can do is be gently on upshift/downshifts and save up till you can upgrade your components.>>2001046Yeah I am vintage so I can't say, but you would think since carbon bikes have been made since the 80's they should be good, even the cheap ones now.>>2001048Make sure you have enough tension in the cable. If it's too tight it won't won't to shift down the cassette. If it's too loose it will be stubborn shifting up and you might have to "overshift" by moving the lever extra.Besides that keep your cassette and chain clean, and if your drivetrain parts are worn out... well lube them and save up I guess.
>>2001038There's cassetes for freewheel hubs. It all depends on available width and number of speeds desired (3, 5, 6, up to 11).
>>2000927Is it your intention to just swap a longer axle and force the wheel in ? Because at that point why not sell FGSS bike and buy one that does what you want it to do, without being a mess ?
>>2000954>You don't have a singlespeed frame thenKEK. 'oNlY hOrIzOnTaL fOrKeNd tArCk BiKeS aRe FgSs'The guy is probably on 120mm rear spacing.
>>2001048>when I'm riding I'll be in gear then all the sudden it like jams up and grinds then skips up or down gears on its ownIt's either that your shifting is fucked, or the cogs of your drivetrain + chain are fucked, or both. For the first thing you'd want to check the cage of your derailer lines up straight with the cassette, which you can eyeball. Then that your indexing is adjusted correctly, which is easy to tune by twiddling a knob. Then that your cable is moving smoothly in the housing, which you can fix by recabling, or by unbolting the cable, not sliding the housing off the inner, but out of the cable stops, and sliding it around to work lubricant into it. For the drivetrain being worn out, you can eyeball cog wear by comparing the chainrings with one another and likewise with the cogs on your cassette. You want a chain wear tool to check the chain is not stretched out, which is like $5, and a shop would probably let you borrow one if you just went to the mechanic and asked straightforwardly if you can use their chain wear tool to check your chain stretch.
>>2001049>Yeah I am vintage so I can't sayI’m curious, what vintage bike would you recommend that roughly suits my riding style, based on my first post? I love the look of vintage bikes and am tempted to get one as a beater, but I feel like I’d regret not having bigger tires than they can fit (old city with some cobblestone streets) and low weight (smoker, hate ascents)
Instead of going on a bike ride this Sunday I met up with two grade three students who I used to teach. They've missed me a lot and one of their mothers called me and asked if we can meet. So I took two of my old students out for some Tteokbokki and then we went to a hot spring. How fast should you be riding before you get some lycra riding clothes?
>>2001056what mess? it's just a regular hanger, only it's attached to the axle instead of dropout. what's the big fuss about that?
>>2001068Ok dude just remember to keep this name so we can easily filter your delirium
>>2001067The best would be a more modern bike that looks like a vintage bike like the ritchey road classic. personally I have a ritchey swiss cross and that bike rides sublime.For true vintage bikes I would look at something like an eddy merkx century, specialized allez(the old one), peugeot px-10, or similar high end steel bikes. Admittedly most of those cost too much and wouldn't qualify as a beater, but they are all really good bikes.Most of mine have been able to take 25c, some can do 28, and some can do 30-32mm tires. If you look for 70's bikes, or touring bikes they can fit larger tires since in the 70's the bikes were designed for comfort and racing, while touring bikes either had more tire for weight carrying, or had 27in wheels and swapping to 700c gave you 4mm extra tire clearence.I would just get a decent one and try it out, look for bikes that come stock with downtube shifters which is a higher end bike. Cheaper ones came with stem shifters. BITD 25lbs was a good weight for any frame, and 10kg was really good>>2001068When you want to. The shorts are nice for riding on rough roads or narrow tires. The jerseys you should just be fit to wear them, otherwise it's.... not a good look. The shorts help with comfort for sure.
>>2000924>>2000931faggots, both of you
>>2001028I feel fairly comfortable buying used aluminum, not too sure about used carbon. But that's just me. I have a CAAD8 (or thereabouts) that's a little too big for me and a 2023 supersix evo with mech 105 that's just about the right size. Both great bikes. The CAAD is actually lighter and snappier (but a lot of that is high-end rim brake wheels as opposed to meh spec disc wheels) but noticeably buzzier/harsher and, as is the way with older stuff, fairly limited in tire size. I'll still ride it on gravel from time to time though.
I'm in a new area and along my route there's a railroad crossing. The thing is the tracks are really deep, the black things they use to keep them level are missing. Even in a car the crossing is rough. The few times I've taken my bike across I've unclipped one foot and pushed it across as my gut said not to ride across them. I'm on a road bike with 25 carbon tires. I've been thinking maybe I can ride across them but I'm scared as the road is 2 lanes with a decent amount of cars and if I crash it could be bad. I'm wondering if I should try riding across them or just keep crossing like I have been. I know the solution is simple but my brain keeps telling me quit being a pussy while my gut says don't fuck around.
>>2001092always cross train tracks on foot
Thanks, Kim jong un... North Korea have been interfering with GPS signals. Reeeeeeee
>>2001075>The best would be a more modern bike that looks like a vintage bikeI love those, but the good, light ones seem to be in hipster, or at least low production territory and are therefore really overpriced. Shit like Mason, Fairlight, Standert, and especially titanium ones like Reilly or Moots. Hadn’t considered Ritchey though, thanks. Their road framesets still seem to cost 1.2-1.3k here.Also thanks for the info on vintage bikes. I guess you meant proper vintage. I’m not into downtube shifters unfortunately>>2001091>I feel fairly comfortable buying used aluminum, not too sure about used carbon.I was always the same, but while researching CAADs I saw people saying that if they have a dent you should scrap the whole frame because they can basically collapse into themselves. I’m not sure if that’s an issue with (newer?) CAADs specifically, or if it’s the case with every light aluminium frame. If it’s the latter, I guess both carry a similar amount of risk if you’re buying the frame based on pics alone. if I recall correctly carbon can have minuscule cracks that are easy to miss though, which if true would obviously make alu a safer bet again >2023 supersix evoGod I wish newer supersixes were cheaper used. Idk if bikes depreciate much slower than I remembered, or if they’re expensive now because it’s basically summer. Used ones seem to cost about as much as new ones are supposed to cost, it’s weird.
>>2001101>Also thanks for the info on vintage bikes. I guess you meant proper vintage. I’m not into downtube shifters unfortunatelyMany riders switch to brifters too. I mostly meant that when new cheap bikes came with stem shifters, and fancier bikes came with DT, or if you are in the late 80's or later some nice bikes came with brifters. Shimano dura-ace 7400 had brifters in the mid-late 80's, and then more companies caught on.
>>2001101You can always put cable stops on the posts for the DT shifters and run something on your bar.Or just give DTs a try, a few days later you wont remember the reasons for your opposition anymore.
>>2001047>when I shift it sounds like my bike is dyingsomething is set up wrong. claris is capable of smooth shifting there's something wrong with the cable tension or adjustment .take it back where you got it and demonstrate the dying sounds for them. pretty much every shop gives one free tune-up because certain things need to bed in. if they don't, fuckin cuss them out. that's bullshit on a new bike that they set up
Finally found and dug out the tiny sliver of glass that had embedded itself into my tyre causing multiple slow leaks in multiple tubes. Would never have found it if I didn't align tyre label with valve stem. Also glad to have a nice pick set in my toolbox.No question. Just wanted to share. Thanks for reading my blog post.
>>2001048this is a new bike or used?new take it to the shop for your standard one free tune up.used, the worst thing would be the hanger got bent but that's rare. the short answer is follow the park tool link in OP and type "rear derailleur." then follow the install instructions to make sure prev owner didnt fuck something: take it off, lube it, clean it, put it back on right.then do the video for how to adjust and tune.you can try to tune it first , that may be all it is. it could fix with a simple turn of the barrel adjuster, one minute. but if it's otherwise wrong that won't help.
>>2001092speed up and bunny hop
>>2001119Interesting story, you must have skipped class when the teacher said to always inspect the inside of the tire at every tube change. I always wipe the inside with a clean rag.
>>2001099S. Korea will build its own regional GPS similar to Japan's QZSS to counter Nork signal jamming.https://spacenews.com/south-koreas-gnss-project-to-take-off-with-3-3-billion-budget/
>>2001132>always inspect the inside of the tire at every tube changeI did that. Took me four punctures to actually find the little bastard. That's why I was so happy about it.
Should I upgrade to clip ons?
>>2001150Not necessarily, are you feet slipping? Are you willing to buy special cycling shoes? If yes and no You could try pinned MTB flats. FOOKER brand off Amazon has done me right over the years.
>>2001150if you like the pedal you can just go to the hardware store and get new screws. maybe some thread lock liquid. but other anon gives good advice. as a commuter, that kind of grip in your pic was fine until it got wet, then it was slippery. getting a pinned flat pedal took care of that problem.
>>2001132>always inspect the inside of the tire at every tube change. I always wipe the inside with a clean rag.he was right you are wrongthe critical thing is to trace the flat to the corresponding spot on the tire, not to broadly inspect it (although you should do both)learn from him
>>2001101>>2001075It's stupid to look for ANYTHING specific on the used market, instead, learn to gauge quality and condition, know what size you want, and be flexible and fast about taking opportunities. There are so many different nice bikes, and the nicest ones are rare so you won't see them if you look specifically for say a merckx or an allez.
>>2001156>>2001159Are these good for walking a lot too or are they focused on riding?
lads can you recommend me some cheap grease or lubricant or whatever for my bike stuff? and for my chain lock, its been in the rain for couple of days and its all rusty and has white shit on it already.would this work too for all this shit?
>>2001188you can get clipless shoes that are designed for walking in but they're heavy and flexy which means that they aren't great for cycling in. Really there are 2 types of cycling shoes >can sort of walk in and >awful to walk in If you want to walk then you get flat pedals.
>>2001189In your pic is like wd40 or crc, it's mostly a solvent, it's not good for bicycle chains as it will actually flush lubricant out of the rollers, and the spray makes it messy. You want a bicycle chain lube, liquid, to drip on, for bicycle chains. You ALSO want a tube of grease for putting on mating parts, bearings and threads. That spray, or wd40, or crc, is appropriate for derusting your lock.
>>2001189As for which chain lube to use, if you're going budget just get whatever you can find which is cheapest. There is often a split between 'wet' and 'dry'. Imo dry is far superior because it's less tacky so it's less prone to build up black gunk, but you do have to reapply it more often. I also recommend you avoid 'multipurpose' lube saying for chainsaws etc as well, as that stuff is also generally far too tacky. If you're really poor just go to a community workshop place (if you live in a city there will be one) and use their chain lube for free.
>>2001191>>2001192thanksi am indeed poor I'm the refugee fag from the last thread. got a bike finally, learned how to tune breaks and front derailer on it, changed a tube. pretty fun.but it havent been maintained in years, so trying to figure out my options.I'm in cologne and I havent had any luck finding any public stations, maybe I will sometime.only other lube stuff I seen was in decathlon and its 10 euro for 50ml of lube so I didn't look too close at it
another issue I had is that my forward derailer is having trouble shifting from 1 to 2, but if I tune it to shift well there is rubbing up to 3rd speed on the back one (the bike is 3 front 8 back I think)not sure if the issue is in the shifter, havent looked how to maintain that yet.its unmaintained and old and dirty but its mine and it rides well, at least I think. dont have experience.
>>2001196I got my lube at decathlon, I paid a little extra for the "better" version they sold & after using it 3 times it still looks effectively full.If you're in Germany, as I recall, you could get this for 6€https://www.decathlon.de/p/fahrrad-kettenoel-all-weather-100-ml/_/R-p-341539?mc=8751250I don't think you'll find anything cheaper that could do the job
>>2001215fair enoughbut is that only for the chain? need stuff for other parts, and the lock, so it wouldnt rust
>>2001220there's nothing that does everything you want
>>2001221no I get that, but so I need the decathlon stuff for the chain and other moving parts, the spray can for the lock, and I need grease for... someother stuff? not sure what.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fezRE-nWw1U>GCN proves a gravel bike with suspension and dropper is worse offroad than a rigid hybrid with xc tiresHow will grabblebabbies ever recover?
>>2001221https://prestacycle.com/products/prestacycle-one-liquid
>>2001228That's a mountain bike tho https://www.orbea.com/pt-en/bicycles/mountain/alma/
>>2001228>rigid hybrid with xc tireslooks like a mountain bike to me chief
>>2001228What is 'gruble bik with sus' ? Pls show pic.
>>2001228I thought it was a pretty accurate video showing wide flat bars and a better rider beating the roady in all aspects besides that flat race.I do think blake not lowering his seatpost for the descents was retarded. I am younger then him and just use my QR seatpost clamp for descents.
>>2001191>>2001192sanity check me anon please.they had this so I bought it instead says "n-butane, hydrocarbs, C10-C13, n-alkalines, iso-alkalines, cyclyc, 2%aromatics, propane"I'm guessing thus us like wd40 and is used for: cleaning, derusting, penetrating stuck bolts and stuff, and it gives water protection?hopefully it doesnt destroy plastic. but it seemed to make the lock work again.then I need something to remove the grease (or this stuff does the trick too?), then special lube for the chain, and grease for moving parts, right?and if I use the spray on the chain I'd need to re lube and re grease afterward cause it will wash everything out, correct?
>>2001276>grease removala rag. If it needs to be squeaky a rag, water, soap and a brash will do a better job. No need to spray about bolatile hydrocarbons en masse.>doesn't destroy plasticin doubt always try materials combatibility out first>like wd40wd40 is petroleum and perfume>special lube for the chainany medium weight oil will do but considering the price per application and ease of use of a container of bicycle chain specific oil why not just get one of those>grease for moving partsgrease is oil. its base oil thickened with one of several metal soaps enabling it to stick, resist being washed away etc. The point is that you can use it where you fear water ingress, cant regularly service while not having a lubrication system etc. So yeah if you want to prevent water getting in somewhere it's a good idea but more often than not none is needed and grease just makes the bike a mess.>if spray on chain re lube and re greasedon't grease the chain. And yes the product shown will not reliably lubricate your chain for long at all. If you for sone reason were to spray it on the chain apply oil afterwards.
>>2001285ah I see, so basically I can buy that chain oil, use it on other stuff too instead of grease and I'll be alrightthank you anon
>>2001228I proved the opposite in 2021 bro, the stuff has been out a while now>>2001235That’s also an Olympic-winning XC rider on the type of bike she gets paid to ride well
>>2001297That's not what I meant.Do oil your chain.Grease all serviceable bearings, that is loose ball bearings, bearings with their balls on a removable retainer and bearings without seals. This means in particular and usually: Headset, top and botom, wheel bearings, bottom bracket. Sometimes this extends to pedal bearings, jocket bearings and what have you.Most other stuff: Might move but more often than not is fine without grease unless you want your bike to become a greasy mess over time.(I'm omitting some casey here to not make this even more confusing. The above is sufficient regular maintenance.)
>>2001306no ill oil the chain, but you said grease is basically oil, so can I get away with using the chain oil for other things? somehow I'm having trouble finding grease. maybe im retarded.I'm mostly talking about things like breaks (cantilever) cause they move a bit shit, derailers and shifter (if lubing it would even help).not sure if its possible to service a dynamo cause mine has fucked slow down when I put it on, its crazy.also can I use the spray thing on my chain to remove some rust from it? its really rusty. then I'm assuming I clean it with soap and water, and then I put on the chain oil.
>>2001309You can't be having trouble finding grease unless you live in africa.You can use "automobile grease, high temp grease, lithium grease, moly grease, tractor grease, etc....It's like 5usd a stick and lasts a lifetime for bicycles. It's used onthreads, seatposts to stop rusting, all bearings(wheel, bottom bracket, headset), axles, and quill stems.You will want grease for those items. Grease functions as really thick oil that is more protective then oil, however it attracts dirt which is why oil is better for chains and moving parts exposed to the weather.Yeah your 8 in 1 oil will work for lubricating brakes, derailleurs(hit the parallelogram pins), shifters, cables, chains, brake lever pivots.The spray will at least lubricate and help free up your chain, not sure if it will remove rust.I have removed rust from a chain with an engine coolant flush, or rust remover. vinegar can work but it takes a 24hrs. Yeah, soapy water+dry it then your spray.
>>2001285>more often than not none is needed and grease just makes the bike a mess.>>2001276you need to put grease on the bearings. like, smother them in it
>>2001309>brakey derailers and shifterthose are exactly exactly what I had in mind when I cautioned you so here we go:Their mechanical function will not improve with lubrication. Quite the opposite: The lubricant might attract and capture dirt loading up the mechanism. Grease can also oxidize and turn to solid goo.Now the thing is: If you have components that are visibly suffering fron exposure to the elements and show signs of corrosion despite efforts to keep the bike clean, especially when there's salt in winter, then having grease on the affected areas could have prevented this and can prevent worsening.But: Quality components don't do this and wont need any such protection. They will only look shit and slowly pull the rest of the bike down with them.It reminds me of one instance, I was riding and there was a man pushing a MTB. It was pretty clear very soon the guy wasn't a bike guy. I stopped, asked if hes got a puncture and needs any help. I ended up fixing his tube and pumping him back up. It was fucking disgusting to work on this mans bike. He clearly shared the mindest of 'mucho protection for moving parts n shit'. You'd just touch a QR... a moving part after all, and you had blackened grease on your hands. You couldn't even tell anymore where the guy applied lube and which places it had just migrated to. It was everywhere. I was astonished the brakes would even do anything. The whole bike was covered in grease. The compobents on the bike would have been just as happy with some cleaning when needed.Don't be that guy.
>>2001317did you even read the thread ?
>>2001319you're a fag
>>2001311its kinda hard when its something you know nothing about and its also in a language you dont speak. google translate has not been kind to me.didnt see anything in shops either.ill try to look with your keywords online.>Yeah your 8 in 1 oil will work for lubricating brakes, derailleurs(hit the parallelogram pins), shifters, cables, chains, brake lever pivots.you mean the spray can thing >>2001276? i dont think its oil? at least it doesnt feel like oil, it squeaks when i wipe it off things.or did you mean the decathlon bike chain one?>>2001318>Their mechanical function will not improve with lubricationthat really makes no sense to me... the break levers dont pivot well on mine. wouldnt it make sense to put something into the contact point there? and i do have a lot of corrosion.>quality componentsif mine were quality they were quality a decade ago or something.>and you had blackened grease on your handskind of like this for me everywhere, im not sure if this bike was ever cleaned, not sure if its dirt or grease though but its black.should i just pour some water from a bottle on it, rub it with a sponge with some soap and relube/grease the things without overdoing it?sorry if im being retarded.
i may actually be retarded. i dont know how i didnt find these things before, but then again i didnt look on amazon before. never used amazon.hopefully the can i bought instead of wd40 is good enough.
>>2001328not sure what the difference between these 2 is, but people in the reviews use the cheaper one on the chain too. i guess it doesnt matter too much? im assuming specialized chain one is a little thinner so things dont stick to it?
>>2001329A light drizzle will wash the feinöl off the chain. It's oil you'd use for locks, when a door hinge squeaks and stuff like that
>>2001332thanks.
ordered this plump squeezable bike ass from Ali for 7$.did I fuck up? it was before I read sheldon browns page about seats and it looks like I fell Into a noob trap.
>>2001356It's fine for a bike you barely pedal on, and walk up hills, and hang shopping bags off the handlebars, ie, a hobo style bike (perfectly good mode of transport)
>>2001356You fell into a noob trap unless you are a 5'10 bbl owning women or obese man with a huge ass.The issue with those seats is you can't change position for climbing/putting out power, and the fact that it's a little springy.Set it up like how sheldon brown says to setup saddles, and try it out. You might like it or not, but you will get the cheap experience either way.>>2001328The liquimoly grease stuff on the left will work, or anything similar if you need it. Wurth is another brand you may have access too. IDK.
>>2001358>>2001360what if I pedal a lotshould I cancel while I can and get something like this instead? i just want comfy rides
>>2001362actually I have no referrnece for what a lot is. i use it for commute in the city.>>2001360that grreese seems to be the most popular on Amazon also I think cheapest so looks like winning combo, thanks.
>>2001362yeah those are better. if your ass hurts that's normal, just break through it and your ass will be tough. If you benis hurts then that's bad.
>>2001356That is a juicy saddle.
>>2001362That seat should work better. The cutout helps with the taint/bellow balls area and that design will support your body unless you weigh 150kg+The reviews are a good sign. More you ride the more your body will adapt
>>2001383>>2001377I'm 74kg, though my ass is pretty big I guess.i dont think I ride more than 10km at a time. and my bike is sort of like a half way to dutch bike? >>2001197i really dont get if that saddle is bad how is it top selling on Amazon and aliexpress at the same time. i literally saw a guy riding on it yesterday. bike stuff is confusing.
>>2001384also the big one has springs and the all ones have nothing, which doesnt seem nice for the ass.maybe I'll just bite it and buy both and see how it goes.
https://newyork.craigslist.org/brk/bik/d/brooklyn-trek-720-multi-trek-54cm/7747323331.htmlCould I put drops on this thing and make it a city commuter/beater?
>>2001387you can get a drop handlebar to go in that stem easily, and shifters/brake levers that are compatible with the current parts.The groupset on it is very cheap (riveted crankset even) so it's not worth it. The price is insane.
>>2001387Are vintage bikes expensive in NYC?
>>2001390I rarely see anything good. It’s usually a bunch of bullshit for like $700
>>2001391damn dude
>>2001391lol
>>2001393that is a pretty nice bike though
>>2001393>>2001387Do these actually sell or are these just used bike dealers fishing for someone gullible?
>>2001356Are these things just trash or can they be good on more upright city bikes and ebikes?
>>2001391this is good if you have short legs best buy IMOhttps://newyork.craigslist.org/brk/bik/d/brooklyn-vintage-british-woodrup-bike/7753469294.htmldang rare and 531.decenthttps://newyork.craigslist.org/que/bik/d/whitestone-vintage-bicycle-fuji-1982/7744859697.htmlbetterhttps://newyork.craigslist.org/que/bik/d/bayside-trek-820/7752589508.htmlstem shifters but miyata triple butted framehttps://newyork.craigslist.org/brk/bik/d/brooklyn-vintage-bicycle-12-speed/7751261688.htmlLooks harder and look on offerup+fb marketplace.Oh, and if you have wheels look in the boonies. Deals are out there.
>>2001394100 max here on the west coast.>no bullhorns>lmao smol 17 or 18 in frameOkay maybe more with the nice new tires.150.
My bike was $120 (plus $900)
>>2001399>bullhornscalling them bullhorns instead of dropsopinion discarded
>>2001401huh? I meant the bullmoose bars which may have been OEM. but I derped and guess I thought of the bullhorn bars, which is more for fixed gear.If you really think a random stumpjumper is worth 1200 you are rich and stupid
>>2001400How comfortable are the old aluminum Cannondales?
>>2001403It’s by far the springiest-feeling rigid frame I own (other frames are steel heavy-duty gravel and modern steel mtb), and the small frame with long fit components helps in that regard too, but I’m actually really worried about breaking the frame; nearly 30 years it already had an “inspect for cracks daily” warning painted on the aluminum tubes, and even though it hasn’t been used much, it can only have degraded from there.So yeah, super springy and compliant without a doubt, but durability is questionable on thin 90’s aluminum (not if you go 90’s steel though)>pic related the bike in $120 form (plus pedals), I eventually changed nearly every part, going 1x was probably the least valuable upgrade I did honestly
>>2001405The rear end and seat cluster/dropouts appears to be built like a brick (although without disc mounts, and with its full tubular chainstays, it couldve been made quite flexy), and the tubes are thin diameter but seem to be pretty thick on the inside, so I’d assume the flexy feeling is primarily coming from the headtube, this TINY ass headtube that literally completely fits inside of the headtubes of any other bike I own, including a cannondale ROAD bike. Coincidentally that’s exactly where the peak era of cannondale “cracknfail” faulty frames would fail first. Seems like headtubes this small must’ve got left in the past for a good reason because I don’t see any type of bike keeping them that short and narrow anymore
>>2001402I'm just pulling your leg because I've heard normies call drops bullhorns. 1200 is absurd tho
>>2001407All good, I just stream of conciousness post and know that some people do pay more for vintage mtb's with bullmoose bars.>>2001405made in america, BITD so I have faithI suspect the "inspect for cracks daily" sticker was put on for anti-legalese measures. Maybe the viscount deathforks occured in that time frame and people were worried about aluminum.Good news about frame failures is you have 2 chainstays, 2 seatstays, and 2 tubes joining the headtube. So if one goes it will be very springy and you will notice.Forks breaking at the steerer though? that's death Hence the old viscount "death forks"
>>2001406There are still plenty of 1" headtube steel bikes kicking around, but there really aren't that many aluminum frames with 1". That just might be because 1" headtubes started disappearing in the early 90s, and Cannondale and Klein were pretty much the only brands pushing aluminum for every bike category from before the 1" to 1-1/8" headtube switch.
>>2001409It’s not so much the trail or path riding I’m worried about breaking it on, it’s the fact that this 1996 bike is THE best dirt jumping bike I own by a large margin (it just soars through the air and stays very controllable) and I like to practice jumps while also being really bad at them. I’ve broken a chainstay on a bike while riding a path so I’m not too worried about rear frame failure, and the full-steel fork is not a concern at all, but if it came to it, that headtube would snap fast not slow. At least there’s a ton of extra unnecessary metal welded at the headtube to make it look all smooth, and replacement steel 90’s frames would surely be less than $50 if something did happen>a bike I found laying against a tree while on a trail ride, also $120 but brand new
Is carbon fibre much different to metal? I've only ever had aluminium frames and this guy is willing to go to £200 and I kinda want to see how carbon fibre rides.
>>2001439that's cheap because its a manlet size frame
Installed a headset today. Getting a gap between race and seal. I checked bearing orientations, compression rings and all I could think of really. Torqued as hard as I’m comfortable with.Pls help
>>2001459New headset? Is there a gasket that should be in that place?
>>2001463New yesGasket no
>>2001439You can feel the difference if you’re paying attention and have nice tires and equal handlebars on both bikes, otherwise, it’s just a different bike
>>2001459more spacers?
>>2000844On dorsiflexion (foot upwards) my Shimano shoes irritatess my tendon (tibialis anterior) as indicated in pic related. That's my first pair of dedicated cycling shoes and that makes me weary of even taking them on a testride. Are the shoes fine or are my expectations wrong? Besides that, the shoes fit just fine. What's your opinion?
>>2001475Theres already ~2mm between cap and fork tubeThe whole assembly feels tight with no play. Fully rideable but I’m worried about dirt and water getting inside
>>2001493If you're worried about dirt you could fill the gap with grease or lap the top spacer with sandpaper on a flat surface like a sheet of glass
>>2001500I mean the top compression ring obviously
>>2001492First, I don't buy those shoes without a tongue that flaps up.Second, ride with them on a hot day or do some loops nearby your house and see if it loosens up. If it's designed well it should relax(if it's some sort of leather) and conform to your foot.I have had some issues with clipless shoes so I have another bike that has pinned mtb flats for when I want to not deal with that.I would do a short test ride or return them immediately depending on how much it irritates the top of your foot.
Should I get resin or metal brake pads?
I'm >>2001356 back with more specific questions.ive looked around for stuff like wide vs narrow and padding vs less padding and saddle stuff.most big saddle ones seemed clueless and every serious video had those thin style ones, but they are also all about racing or mountain stuff, and zero about commuting and city stuff. so its hard to analyse these things when all the bike autists seem to be focused on all the things I'll not doing with my bike. i reread sheldon browns articles about it as well.ive tried to measure my sitbones with the cardboard method, sitting up straight on a table, and it came out at about 13cm. the big fat saddle says its 20cm wide at the plastic.this one >>2001362 says its 146mm and looks like pic in the promo materials.so question is, is there a way to at least ballpark which one is going to be nicer by these characteristics?is a 146mm saddle too narrow for 130mm bones or that 1.6 cm would be good with that shape?are they situational since city bikes have higher height of bars than mountain or racing bikes, so the angle will be a lot different for the pelvis? (i ride a little forward cause the bars are a bit forward. but I'm starting to learn no hand and its really comfortable with the straight back, but I slide forward, and benis hurts) is this all autism anyway that needs accurate digital measuring devices and sizing and adjusting?is the bike just not sized well for me and my posture is shit anyway? (the back is a curve and pelvis rolled back not forward like sitting in a hard chair comfortably)
>>2001509metal if you want more braking power, possibly more squealing occasionally, and more rotor wear.Generally better if you are riding hard or competing. Oh, and metal does better on really hard and hot descents.Resin is stock and gentler on rotors, also quieter.Here is a good video if you want the info in video formathttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gocMkGckr5A&t=941s
>>2001511Ceramic looks like it's the ultimate rotor destroyer just for being ceramicHow about semi-metallic?
>>2001510city bikes are meant for you to sit up high with all your weight on your ass. This requires a larger cushier seat and sometimes suspension seatposts.It's a mixture of autism and just sitting on the seat. You and I won't know what seat works good for your seating position, riding style, and terrain.I have unironically ridden on "womens" saddles that are a little wider and cushier and it doesn't bother me. Super narrow saddles with no padding are rough for me.My take on it is the worse your roads, and the less you care about speed the cushier seat you want. OTOH I also ride cushy seats on road bikes to deal with narrow tires or bad pavement. Works well for me and I weigh 100kgThis seat is a nice middle ground from super soft and wide to super narrow and thin 155mm wide and 250mm long. Biggest con with this is I can't change seating positions much. Longer, thinner saddles allow you to sit further back and push with your butt muscles better, or sit forward on climbs and focus on your hamstrings.
>>2001510This bike has a cheap chinese saddle that came on the bike. Not as comfortable but allows more seating positions like I talked about in my other post.Somewhat unrelated but the seat was a little high here with flat pedals, so I lowered it and leveled the seat which seemed to help.>>2001512Semi-metallic is a middle ground.... so yeah. Generally a good choice.
>>2001513>>2001514i see, thank you.i think ill just order the thin one too just to see. its only 5 bucks anyway whatthehell. i just get overwhelmed with stuff at every corner trying to research things instead of just riding.also can't imagine bike with bars that low ever be comfortable. does your stomach not hurt from being bent double constantly?
>>2001512You get metallic pads (if your rotors aren’t made of fucking cheese and allow metallic pads) and then you replace them with resin if you cannot get squealing under control even trying everything. Rotors last like 5 years if not way longer
>>2001517Yeah you just have to see with lots of bike fit stuff. You get used to the height of the bars, and it depends on your body too. It's like everything else more you do it the more you adapt, and the better you get.That's one of the reasons pro riders run such low bars, they are fit enough and spend many hours on the bike to get into an aero position.When I want to ride upright I take a mtb generally.
>>20015102 different charts1/2
>>20015222/2
>>2001522>>2001523thanks. so the chances are that 146 isnt going to be enough for 130 bones, but wont know till I try. maybe there are slightly wider ones available.
are bibs a meme? i went for a 2 hour xc ride without them and my bottom is just fine
>>2001522>>2001523these are so dramatically different, is there a consensus about anything at all in bike world?>>2001533they seem retarded. why remove padding from the saddle and put them on your pants? that's backwards
>>2001532yeah you just gotta try shit. as a noob your ass bones are going to poke the soft tissue and it'll be painful until you're body adapts. also , you have no idea what your proper fit is supposed to feel like, so you just gotta try stuff. then a year goes by and you realize what you thought was cool actually sucks and you re-do everything. I was a noob before the internet. it took me for fucking ever to figure everything out
>>2001533ehh try 5 hours you don't need em but they are more comfortablelycra kit at high speeds on a road bike is a significant aero bonus too, like, over a t-shirt, more important than any change you could make on the bike aside from position.
pretty good article to visualise how pelvis workshttps://www.sq-lab.com/en/ergonomics/sqlab-contact-points/the-pelvis/also picture from another one.
>>2001518I think the stock pads which came with my brakes were resin because they have been quiet ever since the brakes were installed. I'll get a 10-pair pack and keep replacing them until the bike is trashed for good
>>2001540this ones good too
>>2000844I want to build a single speed commuter, for commuting to work. But I want linear pull brakesWhat frame options are there out there for that? I found the Wabi Thunder and I really like that but I don’t know what I’m looking for in terms of finding a 100/120 hub spacing frame for 700c wheels but with brake posts
>>2001544i would look for a nice old hybrid or tourer with beat up components to convert. In the correct size, with paint you like. the critical thing is just getting horizontal dropouts I don't see why you need 120 spacing for single speed. Going SS on just a regular cassette hub is fantastic because you have the whole freehub of spacers to move the cog around and achieve a perfect chainline with whatever crank you choose. It doesn't look quite as clean is all, but then, you could also use a nice threaded road wheelset with a SS freewheel.
>>2001533>>2001538I will say, I rode 11hr this weekend on roads and I've pretty much moved away from more than minimal padding. I have some 3mm pad bibs that I quite like; the guy who designed them and sold them to me does 12hr TTs and such things. (Notably, Lael Wilcox runs unpadded bibs.). So, not a big pad guy, but it is nice to have bottoms that slide smoothly over the saddle, won't wrinkle or fold or ride up or wad up, and don't rely on tightness at the waist to stay up. Also aero.>>2001540this from steve hogg is quite good: https://www.stevehoggbikefitting.com/bikefit/2011/09/all-about-smps/(I don't think I like SMPs though personally)
Will I die?
>>2001553They have a guy who farts on every single one before packaging I’ve been to guangzhou I seen’t it
>>2001553You could buy two $25 125g saddles and hope they don’t break or you could buy one $50 250g saddle from a reputable manufacturer with well-engineered flex and padding, indestructible rails, and a warranty
>>2001558Will I die (from financial ruin)?
>>2001561Just go to your local bike shop and buy the pre-farted-on ones for 70% off
>>2001558Saddles don't really break most of your weight is on the pedals anyway
>>2001553i bought one of these, they hurt my ass probably more than a plain piece of plastic. don't do it.
>>2001553I haven't died yet.
>>2001561It'll vaguely do what a leather saddle does, for more than 2x the price. If that's what you're looking for, go for it boss.
>>2001553there's a guy on ali that makes no padding or branding carbon toupé clones for $17. he's sold thousands of them and his rating is almost perfect. pretty sure that's who makes all these and then the other sellers put padding and branding on them.I've been riding one for several hundred miles now and it's rock solid but the padding on the one I got was minimal and I had to upholster it. I guess you could get an aftermarket pad but I diy'd mine. it's the blue one in the diy thread
>>2001561>with mirror what the hell does that mean?
>>2001591There's a mirror on the back so that the shitters behind you can look at themselves and realize that they are in fact behind you.Jokes aside its some marketing name for the 3d printed stuff.
>>2001047Check chain wear. The more wear the worse the shifting. Chains need regular replacement, especially if they are cheap and neglected.Also do the basics, like derailleur hanger straightening and oiling cables
>>2001553eventually, almost certainlyryet seems to be reasonably well regarded in the relevant circles, and a lot of saddle comfort is just trying a bunch of different shit till you find something you like, so I'd say let er buck
>>2001505That's a good approach with the tongue.I tried a few more shoes, most of them were a better fit than Shimano shoes. Tried XC7 too, was a lot better due to two boas, but still. Feel confident enough to do a test with them, but I probably don't have Shimano feet.
I don't measure my rides/etc often because I just don't really care too much. When I ride, I pass by almost every other person on the road/trail. I zoom by them because, well, I like bicycling fast and pushing myself. However whenever I get passed by someone I feel weird. I mean like, damn how slow am I, am I even going that slow at all? Am I in the wrong gear or something? There are times other bikers pass me so fast that I genuinely don't even know how they're doing it because I'm in max gear on a flat surface peddling my ass off. Is their bike just better than mine? More powerful or something, have more gears or bigger ones? I'm not saying I'm a pro rider or some shit, I'm not even really "mad" about it or anything like that. More curious how they do it because there are times I am jamming so fast and they pass me easily, I just think "how the fuck do they do it"?
>>2001746yo wtf. If you are passing people and you rarely get passed you are fast.They could be on e-bikes.They could be spinning faster then youThey could be stronger then you and pushing a 53-10 everywhere(doubtful).Maybe you live in LA or some other cyclist hotspot where pros ride.If I were you and trying to get faster, I would look at my deficiencies. Fat/not lean? Fix it. Weak/twinkmaxxing? lift some weights. Can't spin for shit? get gud by spinning. Not aero? stay in the aero positionetc.Maybe join a club that's fast, that always pushes you.
>>2001748I get passed here and there if I'm on a hill or am just taking it slow. I don't use a road bike so when I'm on the road and someone passes me it usually makes sense to me since they're areo, have a better bike, etc. But when I get passed on regular trail or road its just feels odd to me. I guess I'd have to record as many rides as possible to see my max speeds over the month or something. My average speed is like 15mph on my previous strava rides but the data is almost a year old. I'd say it's still about the same.
>>2001746more experienced riders pace themselves
>>2001749Road bikes are fast on all forms of tarmac/pavement/bike path. It's only when the road turns into gravel or harder off road that a mtb is faster.Even then, gravel bikes are quick off road too due to aero.Keep an eye out if they are lycramaxxing or look particularly fit.
>>2001749>I get passed here and there if I'm on a hillso you're weak thenI don't know why you think you'd be as fast on the flat, as the person who can pass you on a hill.
>>2001746anon you critically need a fast road bikeyou're racing people in your head and gotta go fast
>>2001752How can I get better though? There's times I am going up a hill/etc in the perfect gear, in the flow, not tired or anything, and still get passed. I honestly don't know how else these riders do it. Maybe they have stronger legs, a better bike, or what. But I don't see how I can "get better" when my 100% perfect riding is still getting beat out. Though I do regularly catch and pass other riders on the road if they're ahead of me.
>>2001754ride more
>>2001754in the flow isn't necessarily fast. Your riding isn't perfect, and if you aren't laying on the ground after your effort you had more in ya. Or if your muscles aren't cramping up, you had more in ya.Source? me when racing and overdoing it. Everytime I ended up with a cramp somewhere.Oh, and beyond that, work on using all of your leg muscles. If you utilize each of them you can push them harder, and then change between glutes, hamstrings, quads, and calves as your main focus.
>>2001754Ride more lolAlso, arguably, trainFriel isn't right about everything but his shit is a reasonable place to start.>>2001748>If you are passing people and you rarely get passed you are fast.nah. racing people who aren't themselves racing is weak shit. if you want to know whether you're fast, show up to a race, or see how you stack up on Strava KOMs (I wouldn't normally suggest this but guy already has Strava.).
>>2001771+1 this 'logic' is utterly flawed.Imagine you're out on your 30 km commute, encounter another rider thats been going 300 km at 300 W constant, since you're only out for 3/4 of an hour and pacing for that you smoke the guy.Wow such win.Kek.t. daily commute, 'smoking' everyone left and right, a guy on a TT while on my commuter once, electric faggots and what have you. Still remember the maybe two times fred out on a training ride got me because their home stretch and I was injured. No reason to believe I am fast. I go races and I don't always come out on top, in addition to that I know I can't even put out Cat.1 levels of power relative to my weight consistently. So rather slow actually.
>>2001746They exert more energy than you for longer are you fucking stupid
>>2001754Your riding is not perfect. I bet people pass you on down hills without even pedaling.
My first real ride... I think I have a long way to go.
>>2001746I'll assume you're at pretty good fitness levels, because if you weren't, you wouldn't even be passing an experienced cyclist going a "leisurely" pace. If you want to get better, you need to track your rides, and get a cadence sensor. Try to pedal and gear at a pace where you're consistently pedaling at 80-100 RPM, and gear appropriately. Look at your ride later in Strava or something, pinpoint any parts of the ride where your cadence was lower than 80 RPM or higher than 100 RPM. You likely weren't in the correct gear at those points. Correct your gearing the next time you ride that route.
>>2001815please remember to put your name in the name field thank you
>>2001819Please remember to put your testicle in the car door before closing, thank you, 쿤 바보
>>2001821someones got dongs on the mind
wait, are we in the daily ride thread or the bike questions thread?
Is an horse a bike?
>>2001869a horse is a horse, of course, of course
What is the thickest, most durable full wrapping on the market? I do lots of commuting & bikepacking with the same bike and I'd like to protect its beautiful paint. It's also a steel bike and I'm quite anal about rustproofing it so I already sprayed the inner tubes with fluid film but also wondering, is it worth it to spray the outside of the frame before applying the wrap? What are my options?Ridewrap? (8-9mil so about 229 microns? Couldn't find info)Invisiframe? (12 mil so about 305microns)Effetto mariposa shelter tape? (1200 microns)
>>2001787>30km commutewhy the fuck are you working two towns over?
>tfw there are high-end Kleins with all the original parts just available for sale in random used bike shops in Seoul
>>2001882>is it worth it to spray the outside of the frame before applying the wrap?how the fuck would that even work?
>>2001888Well spray the tubes and then apply the wrap in case water/moiture seeps in between the bike and the wrap
>>2001889wouldn't the wrap not stick the frame then? and any moisture between the bike and the wrap doesn't matter as long as the frame is painted.
>>2000844Why are 90s hardtails so goddamn comfy? I just bought a $1700 gravel bike and about to return it because it's less fun to ride.
>>2001890I'm not sure, that's why I'm asking. I'll just put a light coat and then wipe it down so to only leave a fine coat. I'm a bit paranoid about rust/wear and damage as I spent a little too much on this bike
>>2001891the gravel bike would be comfy and fun for longer serious rides, especially climbing, whereas you just enjoy cruising about on a shitter and haven't really even tried riding your nice bike hard yet. >why is cruising about on a shitter so comfy and funjust is man. and i pity those who don't have it in their life.
>>2001891more upright bars and the geo/frame design must just work for you.I can't disagree since half my rides are vintage mtb's...... sometimes even on the road with hybrid/road tires.
>>2001890It’s a thing they do with vinyl wrap for cars, possibly some specific kind of wrap that isn’t sold for bikesJust follow the instructions on the wrap
>>2001891But that’s wrong, modern gravel bikes smash 90’s mtb in basically every conceivable aspect except jumping and even then there’s advantages
>>2001923nahAll gravel bikes do are better on the flats since they are more aero and have bigger wheels.
>>2001925I’m talking specifically about gravel bikes that fit 2.0” tires and are maybe capable of short-travel suspension fork, which is actually a lot of gravel bikes these days. The big wheels kill some aspects of the ride sure, but the stronger frames and more reliable parts with handlebars just as wide as 90’s mtb bars can really do a lot these days. I guess I have an unfair comparison on my hands since I really like my mtb-ized gravel bike with suspension fork and only ride my 90’s mtb as rigid (and rigid sucks off-road imo, whether mtb or gravel). I do love my 90’s rigid mtb and nothing can replace its ride qualities don’t get me wrong, but I love my gravel bike with suspension more, and I do think its better at just about any use case
>>2001927I guess, actually, looking back to when I had the gravel bike rigid and actually comparing rigid vs rigid, I would say the 90’s mtb was a better mtb. But I think there’s a good point to be made that it’s often easier (not cheaper) to get good suspension on a modern gravel bike than it is to get good suspension on a 90’s straight headtube
>>2001928That's a valid point>>2001927My issue is it's too damn close. If you get a late 90's early 2k mtb with marzocchi or fox forks it's basically there. Yeah no disk brakes, but some off those forks are disk compatible, which is enough. Slap a 27.2 dropper on and bob's your brother's mother.I have nothing against gravel bikes and they are essentially a return to 90's mtb's/early 2000's XC hardtails. Just with curly bars for better aero.Shit now that I say that your gravel bike is a hop skip and a jump to being a xc race hardtail.low travel suspension fork, narrower bars, 2.0+ tires, disk brakes.Man it's wild how we keep calling bikes different names and they sell.
>>2001932Still kinda regretting not getting an external cable dropper and routing the previously-front derailleur cable vertically up to it from under the BB, that would’ve been sick, I even considered a lever-actuated 100mm dropper but I ended up getting the boring responsible thomson seatpost since the bike is naturally small; it’s refreshing to use QR sometimes anyways
>>2001883Why would I move ? I got that job by chance and while I'll certainly ditch it I quite like it.Also it's a rural area, maybe thats part of it.
>>2001939I am a QRbrah and it's cool. I ain't racing so I don't need to have a dropper anyways.>>2001961Maybe he lives in europe or something where jobs are always close.I used to travel 40 miles each way for a job. Luckily it was fast so only 50 minute commute.
>>2001962Well I am living in europe, germany. And some people just seem not to prioritise proximity as much or their cutoff is higher than that of others. Who knows. My university is pretty much on the half way point, so I used to commute half the distance. I dont prefere one over the other, maybe commuting 15 each way again would feel a bit short. Idk I enjoy riding.
I'm mounting V brakesis there any significance to the grease that I should use?I'm not American, all of the Americans in Youtube tutorials use specialised parktool greaseI don't own anything that could be used as lube and I don't know what to buy
>>2001995Blue or green lithium grease, marine grease, or polyurea grease on the outside of the mounting post. Do not put grease inside the mounting post hole. Clean with isopropyl alcohol if the inside is grimy.
>>2001995any brand of NLGI #2 grease at a hardware store
>>2001997Which color tastes the best for ride snacks?
>>2001962>>2001984holy fuck how can you stand losing 2 hours of every day? how do you even manage to get anything done? I basically have to skip breakfast and I have no time to shower more than once or twice a week and sleep for anything to be done, and I'm 5 minutes walk from where I need to be. its not like riding a bike ia even enjoyable then cause you have somewhere to be and its stressful
>>2002012Black, particularly WURTH SIG 3000.So smelly and sticky it will cling to your tongue and fill you with a next level sensation.
>>2002015I don't do it right now, but I would dress+drive and have no breakfast(not a breakfast guy). Semi drive/stumble to the jobsite, arrive at 7 am and after 5 minutes feel great.Then drive home at 3pm or 2:45 if I skipped the rest and somehow still hit traffic.It's 2024, people here have been commuting 2 hours each way since the early 2000's. People can't afford to live in the city or would rather commute then spend 2x their house price on a tiny apartment.1 hour each way or less is my preferred setup.Anytime longer and I would be thinking of sleeping there.
>>2002019if I wake up in the morning I'm a wreck the entire day.also >its 2024yeah, and ive been working remote since 2019 cause why the fuck would you actually come into work anymore unless you have a physical jobget out of bed, take a piss, and I'm at work. i can eat while working, I dont gave to dress up or wash or anything unless I want to. no way I'd ever go back to kommuting and office.
>>2002022>2022whoabased if true. Just watch out for h1b's and shit, since they can work remote.
>>2002015I generally sympathize with this, sustained and routine driving/transit commutes can fuck right off, but I don't mind lengthy cycling commutes. Nice way to get a bunch of extra training in.
>>2002024i would never be able to relax and enjoy it if its ne going to work. it would ruin biking for me I think. too stressful.
>>2002025different anon here: that was not my experience at all. the riding made me happy and replaced the existential dread of getting up early and going to work. plus the exercise pumped me up and woke me up so I was better able to cope and just generally ready for whatever the day held.but I didn't necessarily "relax" and enjoy it, I rode normally i.e. gotta go fast, but I enjoyed it that way.
>>2002026when I used to walk to work it was only tolerable because most of it was straight line and I could wwkk with my eyes closed and my brain off.and the alternative would be being stuck in public transport in traffic jams
>>2002012Listen, chuddyYou WILL NOT insult my xister, simply because xhe recommends grease based on colour
>>2001920yeah, i'm saying that most of those wraps for bikes that aren't just straight up adhesive are applied with water, similar to car wrap stuff/window tint. i'd imagine that using something that would act as a rust inhibitor (presumably with oil in it) would cause the wrap to not stick properly.
New to bikes here. I was looking for a comfort hybrid and narrowed it down to the Specialized Roll 2.0 and Giant Cypress 3. Which is better?
>>2002052as for comfort, definitely the specialized. those 2,3 tires are a great choice to stroll leisurely on paved surfaces. even on the geometry, the fork offset on the roll really suggests more comfort.Really a great choice, it's a good and versatile enough build and frame so that later you can maybe swap the group or that handlebar with something more athletic. love it.on the other hand the cypress may look and feel slighlty more athletic out of the box, but you couldn't do much to make it more comfy, except use that nice tire clearance up to 700x55.
Why do mountain bikers act like their better than everyone else? They're not overly loud or abrasive about it but there is a definite air of superiority from them.
>>2002066Sure this isn't in your head? or did you meet fit xc racers/roadies?Most mtbers are super chill and want to hang out.
>>2001997>Clean with isopropyl alcohol if the inside is grimy.isopropyl is actually a terrible cleaner. It's appropriate only when you need a surface to be totally clean of wax and grease as on braking surfaces or painting or wrapping tape. Usually after using a proper solvent like kerosene, or a more gentle soap or degreaser.
>>2001517You bend at your hips, not stomach. Your back will bend a little, but it's really not a big deal. The goal is to better share your weight between your arms, your butt and your legs, so you're not overloading one part of you. That allows you to ride longer, more comfortably.
People talk about peddling at high RPM for better performance but I feel like when I'm peddling in high RPM regardless of gear or where I'm riding, I feel like I'm not going anywhere. Does that make sense? Like I'm peddling my ass off to get high RPM but I'm barely even moving forward. Where as if I was in a higher gear putting down more strength but less RPM I would be going faster and further. I mean, am I doing something wrong? Plus I can peddle pretty quick in my max gearing if I'm on a flat surface. I'd have to buy an entire new cassette/etc to get more gears/teeth/etc
>>2002114In order to listen their their advice you need to own a cadence sensor, and you don’t, so you can safely remain in ignorance where things make sense and do what you please
>>2002114Are you actually moving slower or is it all in your head? What are you calling high RPM? The only time I've felt like this is when I'm spinning way higher than my gear, like say 120 RPM or more.You will naturally feel like you're riding faster if you're pushing a lower gear, cause you're putting more effort into your muscles. That's just how it is.
>>2002114Here is what happens. High rpm taxes your cardio more then muscles, which is less load over time. High rpm also allows you to react quickly in races or change your speed quickly, if you can go above or below current rpm.Someone pushing a high gear will have to stand or really push hard to go accelerate, where as someone spinning just has to go a little faster.Your bike may not have high enough gears for your capability right now, and what you can do is change cassette's/gearing OR focus on spinning faster.High rpm vs High power is an ancient battle, and every 10 years it switches from one side to another. Best way to look at it is train your weakness, so you can just get faster. Someone I knew said to spin quicker you just have to do it longer, and "loosen up" your hips.
>>2002117I think he’s researching cycling subreddits before actually riding a bike for the first time, it’s the way of the world these days
>>2002118>>2002117>>2002116So outside of just buying a new cassette/etc with more gearing, I should be riding at like what 80% (or so) of my capacity and getting my RPMs up? As in, I should be riding comfortably in terms of strength and speed, but trying my best to get more RPM?Another thing I feel is: when peddling in those high RPMs, all it makes me want to do is go to a higher gear because of the actual feeling of peddling so much. It's tiring as fuck, IMO, to peddle so much and so fast only to "maintain" speed; and I'd say my riding cardio isn't even that bad. It's just like... boring and too intense to peddle like a maniac. But I am trying to become a better rider in every sense so it feels like something I should improve.
>>2002121What are your current gear ratios?Do you live in holland where hills don't exist, or is it florida?Are you a powerlifter with super strength, or just have massive legs?Also realize some people just prefer peddaling slower. many racers in the 80's ran low cadences with long crank arms and flew up hills with a mixture of drugs and standing.RPM is just another way to go faster. Just like how lifting weights and getting stronger to push a heavier gear, OR getting in a more aero position makes you faster.OR optimizing fit if you are hurting a lot.Just another tool in the toolbox. Remember, you can do what you want.
>>2002121Ok here’s what you do, get up to 20mph on flat, however you like, and stay there. After a brief moment, wonder to yourself “what if I shifted down and pedaled faster?”This isn’t a difficult concept and it’s frankly not even real advice 90% of the time; it’s just that most people naturally like to pedal slowly with a lot of varying resistance, and that is not very conducive to maintaining a high speed. If you had a cadence sensor you could check to see that you’re probably already spinning 70-90rpm which is just fine and can confirm you don’t need to worry about people online saying “just spin bro” ever again
>>2002098but the more you bend the more your thighs push into your stomach
>>2002129...how big's your stomach? I'm not thin, but even flat back, elbows at 90 in the drops I don't have this problem. My gut mostly goes between my legs. Is your q factor too small or something? Or maybe something else fit-related, I dunno.
>>2002136I have a simliar issue to the guy above. Even when I was thin, pedaling in the drops my legs are damn close to hitting my stomach.Now, it's worse so I only do it for a short time, mostly why I stay on the hoods, ramps or tops.Have the opposite of a twink body. wide hips, deep chest, reasonably wide shoulder, but a short torso. Long inseam for my height. My ribcage is flat with my stomach, but since the ribcage is so deep I hid a pretty big stomach. I am the missing link
>>2002136i dont know what most of those words meanmy stomach isn't too big but my thighs are big, and at the joint its bound to push in.
>>2002138>>2002139you guys are built weird. My knees are hitting my ribcage when I'm really low.
your bike fits are all fucked beyond comprehension btw
>>2002015I do not 'loose 2 hours a day'. How am I 'loosing' them ? By that logic I am losing the 8 hours I am at work and the hours spent sleeping, eating and what not.By extension of this IMO flawed idea one could argue cagers 'lose' roughly the same time, while also harming everyone in the process. They will then 'lose' additional 2 hours a day for cageing to, working out at and cageing back from the gym, if they want a fitness level comparable to mine. After doing this to address their physical weakness they'll still have to sort out the weskness of the senses inherent to cageoids. The later is part of the reason for reliance on motorvehicles and at the same time reinforced by their use.I don't see how riding my bike is stressfull, I just make sure to go all out every time.Besides that my commute takes me 45 min or less one way.
>>2002114since you didn't explicitly say it I'll go ahead and state the obvious. you spin a low gear fast for acceleration, then gear up and if you can spin that one fast, gear up again. repeat until you can no longer spin them stupidly quickly. when you're in the right gear, it's resisting your ability to spin it super easily but you're not mashing it, either. it's not right in the middle of those, either, it's favoring spinning slightly more than mashing, but you still can feel you're putting a little power down . then keep shifting up or down to stay in that powerband as conditions change this is of course highly subjective, everyone's strength and fitness is different. but I feel I get the best results this way
My bike was rained on for an hour and the squeaking in the drivetrain stopped. Problem solved ?
>>2002156yeah the metal on metal rubbing is now rust on rust, it should polish out with time and return to squeaking
>>2002159Steel doesn’t actually rust that fast does it
>>2002129>but the more you bend the more your thighs push into your stomachbro?I don't feel my thighs against my stomach unless I put my feet up on my chair and lean forward
>>2002161my chain got surface rust within a day when I cleaned it & let it airdry after a wipedownlike the other anon a few threads back, it just went off from a ride though
How good is a 46/30 at front and 11-36 at the rear compared to a 34 front and 11-44 at rear? Mainly looking for ease and comfort for climbing
>>2002146>I am losing the 8 hours I am at workYes, absolutely, this is 100 percent the case. That's why they pay you for it. Sleeping and eating too, sure--not enjoyable social meals, but if you're just feeding the machine, absolutely. Kind of surprising to find there are people who don't believe this but go figure, it's a big old world.
>>2002129this is true, and that's one of several reasons why high-drop fits often move the seat forward relative to the bottom bracket and often use shorter cranks.
>>2002052At that price range, you are better off getting a used bike. You can get a KILLER used bike for $700, as opposed to these entry level new bikes. Between these the roll 2.0 but you can likely buy the upgraded version (Sirrus) used for less money.
>>2002144if its hittijgnyour ribcage its most definitely hitting and compressing your stomach and lower stomach, because that's how joints work, the closer to the joint the less clearence there is
>>2002146youre losing 2 hours cause you HAVE TO do it. youre most definitely losing hours at work, what the fuck else do you think that is? but you get paid for that.>i make sure to go all outso what if you feel tired, what if weather is shit, what if something breaks? you will be late and it will be an issue. and if you give yourself more time buffer then youre once again losing time to your employer.its always stressful going somegwre where time is a concern. i dont ever ever want to have to be on time anywhere, and having that set goalnmakes anything I do related to that a chore and stressful.eating is stressful, washing up is stressful, going to the bathroom, the most peaceful place you can be is stressful, cause inknowni have x minutes to do it or I'll be late. fuck working so much man.
poorfag here, I finally cleaned my used bike for the first time and holy fuck it was dirty.dont know what year it was made but its french and its oretty good, theres not even rust. and it turns out dersiler and gears and breaks are all shimano, that's pretty good right?question is how do i make sure it stays in good shape? should I buy some special cleaning tools or tuthbrush, rag and dishsoap will do the trick? (obviously going to lube the chain afterwards and stuff like that.)another question is are cheap tools worth it? like stuff for removing cranks from aliexpress for 2 bucks, or will that just fuck things up?one thing I know for sure, after cleaning the gears and chain it shifts like a dream.and for context, the gears were completely black so I thought it was painted, but they are actually shiny silver underneath. and there were huge chunks in between.next step is to figure out how to take apart the wheel.. hubs? and take off the gears to clean them properly, and also the handlebar post thing that goesbthrough the frame is a little wobbly, that's solvable right?what type of tools can you guys recommend in general to have for self maintaining a bike? i ordered a couple small wrenches already but the adjustable one is only 4inch so that's probably too small.
>>2002139I went on a long ride, and my fatass was even having this issue at even the tops. I just get used to it, and it's not like mashing it, just a mild nudge over.If I don't want this issue I ride my mtb's, and on those the wider q factor feels nice too.>>2002161If I leave bare steel out in a humid environment within a day it will be lightly rusted.If you live in a desert with low humidity and low rain like I do it's NBD, but over in the south of the US, or like in south east asia things rust FAST.That's part of the reason when you buy a chain it's gooped with greasy shit.>>2002173Here is how it works. 30 front is easier then 34 front.36 rear is harder then 44 rear. Sheldon brown has a gear calculator, and you can see it there.I would rather you run the 34/44 setup since I am pretty sure that's easier off the top of my head.>>2002218French bikes are pretty cool.Shimano groupset can be racing tier, all the way down to BSO tier, but I bet it's somewhere in the middle.>stay in good shapeLube the chain when it's squeaky/dry, lube cables anything that pivots with a thin oilish lube. Classic mix is ATF+acetone/mineral spirits if you want a lot.Seth's bike hacks has a video on cheap tools, you kinda only know when you get them, but 50-75% seem good enough.https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DV_gX-C7RDE&t=1081sToothbrush, old shirts/rags, and dishsoap can work. May want to get a stronger solvent if dishsoap isn't cutting the grease well enough.Try and keep your drivetrain in decent shape. It will save you money in the long run. Watch RJ the bike guy, or the park tool youtube channel for techniques on how to do things.
>>2002146Everybody has the same 24 hours, but your boss buys eight of yours to have 32. Yes, that time is lost to you. Yes, time spent commuting is lost as a part of the cost to sell your labor.
>>2002215>youre losingyou have a really weird way to think about this. I think the best indicator for this would be wether I feel like I was losing time working or commuting. I don't. On top of that I wouldn't work my job if I didn't like it and I definately do not work because I am 'getting paid' I don't even know how much I am getting paid but I am definately sure it's in no relation to what I legally own. I am definately not 'losing hours at work' doing something i enjoy doing and want to do.>so what ifI often feel tired. I know from experience I feel more tired if I am sedentary and give in to such things as comfort, mediocracy, laziness and what not.The weather is shit very often, I'd say around half the year, maybe a third. I wake up at 6 and often its pouring, close to freezing, windy (usually good in the morning bad on my way back) or snowing, hail, snowing and dark. So what ? I don't want to become like the people who are constantly sick and depend on 'appropiate clothing'. I dont either want to become like the people who have low drive, an incurable addiction to comfort and technology and have no resiliance mentally or physically.>something breaksAfter almost a decade of pedestrianism and cycling only I have the method and gear sorted out to a point where rarely anything breaks, usually preventative maintainance catches it and otherwise it's a quick fix. If a cager hits me and it turns out bad I just show up later or not at all for a while and don't work.>stressfullsomething about your employer is really messed up. You should quit. I randomly quit a job every few years as a matter of principle, as to not get accustomed. I wouldn't accept anything where I have to work for a set number of hours or where I am expected to attend on a given day or at a given time. Altho I do make sure I show up every working day, no later than 8 and leave no earlier than 6. It's just that I wouldn't accept someone putting that shit into a contract.
>>2002220i have stomach issues so if I get pressure there I start feeling real bad real quick. but i ride pretty upright so its usually ok
>>2002223Understand many people work jobs they hate, and have different viewpoints on it.I tend to feel better after doing hard, manual labor so that's what I do.I would probably go postal if I was working in a DEI/woke/female owned business.I also don't get stressed about anything, but I used to have serious issues when I was a kid.
>>2002224Dang. Yeah that's when you want upright bars, bmx, bars on a mtb, or something similar.Saw plenty of old people riding today with setups like that. Good just to see them out there.
>>2002225(You)'re now 'explaining' to me how different people have different viewpoints.I of course am very aware of that and never implied anything else. You probably know both of those things. This leads me to believe you are trying to make it look like at least one of those things was the other way round.Reminder: It is (you) who initially brought up and then kept insisting on your concept of 'losing time'. Now guess what: Aparently people are different and not everyone feels like this. Also I can only repeat myself: You should probably not work jobs you 'hate'. I think it could be very bad for you and I am worried it could indeed be bad for you.I do sure understand many people do not enjoy their jobs. I hear them talk. I know the general sentiment in the population regarding working. I know more people who are counting down years to retirement than not.Anyone understanding this doesn't change anything and doesn't make me worr, less about you or anyone else who feels like this. It is especially the last two paragraphs here >>2002215 that just convey a feeling that something is really wromg and I hope you get around to fixing it. Especially your employer should fix their shit, actually. I doubt your coworkers feel any better.>>2002221No. Me and my employer we spent that time together doing cool things we enjoy. We mutually benefit, not only from an exchange. Also I have no reason to 'sell time for money' so why would I ?I neither 'lose' the time spent commuting. I get to ride a bike. I get to do a workout. I get to wake up, clear my head and see things. I want to do both things.>>2002214No not really I only contact my knees to my ribcage. And that's pretty much how geometry or pretty much angles work but guess what: My body is not made up of straight lines, which is why my knees are hitting my ribcage when I am on a bike thats old school aero. I agree that if I was adipose my knees could not hit my ribcage as they would first hit my belly.
>>2002220both derailers are this DEORE LX>oilish lubedo muktifunction sprays work for that? one I have one of the uses is "penetrating oil" or should I use something else? does bike chain lube work for those?>Videoperfect thanks
>>2002240i guess it is a little bit rusty, but if you saw the "before" you'd see that this looks amazing in comparison. i need to learn still how to take all of that stuff off and I could give it w proper clean then. vinegar bath maybe?
>>2002223You don’t feel like you’re losing time by spending 8 hours of it at work, ok. Then keep working, never retire, maximize profits and hashtaghustle
>>2002056Interesting, thanks.>>2002203What's your reasoning for choosing the Roll between those two? Just curious. And reason I selected those 2 is because they're partially comfort bikes with handlebars that are higher up. Even if they make expensive ones like that for cheaper used, I would rather just start off simple as I'm new to this.
>>2002223>enjoyscommuting>enjoys work>loves shit weather, doesnt get sick>doesnt show up to work if he doesnt want to>maintains his bike>has great job but expects people to have one tooi can't tell if youre lucky, dumb, or unironicaly chad. but then again og chad was those.
>>2002240>>2002242i think that's the '92 version
Jobs only exist to fund your expensive fanciful life, it’s a fair trade for any downtime you have, if your life is also your job then you’re doing something wrong
>>2002240>Deore LXassuming the shifters match, that is a smooth-shifting group. it was one step below top of the line in it's day, but the difference was probably just a few grams of weight. I bought a new mtb back then with it and to this day it's the best group I ever had, but that's also because my subsequent bikes were used , I haven't had a new bike since that one got stolen.there was also a low-ish tier Shimano group called Mountain LX which you would think is the same, but it was actually pretty basic, though.you don't have to take the gear cluster off (it's called a "cassette" on your bike.) and you need a tool called a cassette cracker to get the lock ring off anyway. yours looks really clean, I wouldn't bother trying to get cleaner . you should do at least one deep clean of your chain since it came to you very dirty. you have to see if there's a quick link on it (they're visibly different) and supposedly you can take it off but some of them require a tool which defeats the purpose, to my mind. if no quick link, you have to buy a rivet tool. unfortunately, after you get it clean (shake it in a jar with solvent, pour out dirty solvent, repeat until solvent isn't dirty) you may find that the chain is spent. the friction wears it out and they stretch and then they skip and don't shift right. if you need a new chain, you need the rivet tool to size it to your bike even if it comes with a quick link. it and the tool that checks the chain stretch can be bought for low prices though. and a new kmc chain for yours is 7 or 8 speed cassette is like ten bucks, so none of these will break the bank. once you have a clean chain and you keep up with it the deep cleans are not needed very often. some people disagree and always do it but I mostly do surface cleans on the bike and relube and wipe down.
>>2002260that's pretty cool to hear, hope it doesnt rust or anything. i sprayed a bunch of multifunction spray on it so hopefully that gives some protection.the shifters are these i think, and its a bit rough, the 8 grip works decently but it goes to rest in between numbers often, not sure if it does anything badand the 3 one I need to pull it to 2.5 to shift from 1 to 2, and 3 feels a bit tight to get to, might be weak wrists or something.not sure if its something I can fix or clean cause only been dealing with brakes and derailer stuff for now. but it seems alright. would be nice to get new grips though cause one is rubbed through on the end, someone must have fallen over on it.>looks cleanshouldn't I try to do something about the rust? i got that multifunction spray I could try. there were literal chunks of dirt and black shit in between every gear, not sure if I cleaned it well cause was pressed for time (it was a public garage project where they had free tools and advice), just used a rag to slide it between them.>chainyeah I cleaned it as well as I could with bike cleaner, water, and some break cleaner too, then more soap and water, dried it, out oil on, but i didn't have time to clean the front dersiler so I think it picked up some garbage anyway, but its way better than it was before, actually shifts smooth and I can even do multiple gears in one motion no problem, so that's nice.so for chain I'd need:quick link pliers (ones in that video look nice), rivet tool, new chains on ali are 5 euro I think and have pretty good reviews so that's cool.I'm assuming I can get by without special solvent and use vinegar and soap water or dish soap and stuff like that?
>>2002215>so what if you feel tired, what if weather is shit, what if something breaks?dbap, leave early enough, and sometimes you're late to work, shit happens. >>2002223reasonably based, I'm glad you found something that works for you, but most people are willing to give up a bit more autonomy in exchange for more and less volatile incomeI took a pay cut to take a job I like and I might be willing to do it as a volunteer for about three weeks a year
>>2002261I've never owned grip shift but the times I tried it I was not a fan. no advice except read the park tool instructions andvideos and watch RJ videos.I didn't see any rust but usually it will wear off with usage.the cheap solvent that works excellent is gasoline (or kerosene). however it's super volatile and disposal is not very eco friendly but if you pour the dirty stuff into a bucket or something to evaporate somewhere it won't get rained on is preferable to just pouring it in the ground or down the gutter or whatever. paint thinner, denatured alcohol, one anon uses lamp oil, says it's cheap and gets it at the supermarket. the eco solvents are water based you can pour down the drain but it takes forever to evaporate out of the chain, but you can bake it out in the oven. I don't think anything is wrong with vinegar, soap and water but either bake the chain or leave it in the sun and keep drying overnight.
>>2002266the logic itself on the grips is really simple I think for anyone to understand, so that's nice.do enthusiasts use levers more? i saw these on ali, not sure how legit this is cause I dont know anything about anything, think iols tick to trying to fix what I have and learn in the process.would be nice to replace the cable sleeves also. feels like a lot of cheap bike stuff on ali is pretty alright. certainly better than buying exactly the same things at x10 markup locally anyway.thanks for the tips.
Any good recs for spots to bike (or eat/drink after) in NYC? Going for a short trip and want to get some biking in somewhere. I did some nice bikes up in upstate NYC in Catskills or something it was called a few years back. But I've never done it in the city.
>>2002277If you're looking for gottagofast, South County Trailway up into Westchester County or 9W in New Jersey/Rockland.If you want the most stereotypical city riding, like cobblestones and slow cars and dense everything, the easiest traffic is going to be below 14th street in manhattan. If wider roads are your thing, the West Side above 59th is generally the gentlest along with most of Central and West Harlem. Washington Heights is alright other than the northern fringes around Inwood. Midtown west is a death trap, like around hudson yards and up to 59th-ish. UES just sucks including East Harlem. The bike routes like the hudson greenway or the bridges to queens/brooklyn are pretty terrible (bikes yes, but operated with cager mentality, aggressive, impatient and risk-tolerant, so you're safer just riding with cars), central park loop is a hellscape of tourists, sanic freds, kids darting around, horses, and people going the wrong way on electric skateboards. Anything bike related downtown east of 5th avenue is shit. Queens is full of failsons in Altimas going 100mph in a 25 zone, Brooklyn is nothing but dump trucks driven by meth heads and Russian gangsters in BMWs, Inwood is the street racing capital of the tri-state area, and thus far none of the expeditions to Staten Island have returned alive so nobody is quite sure what's down there. The Bronx is actually not too bad other than the stolen cars with fake plates who definitely will kill you but they mostly hang out around the onramps/offramps for cross bronx and the major deegan.Basically just stay out of the outer boroughs and the area around the UN and Lincoln Tunnel and also the area around MSG and Port Authority, and if want to be able to hop off your bike and enjoy a meal while dressed like a normal shaved f-slur with a butt plug under your bibs, you really need to just ride up the hudson because that's where the food establishments that specifically cater to people like us. Thanks for reading my blog.
>>2002281>if want to be able to hop off your bike and enjoy a meal while dressed like a normal shaved f-slur with a butt plug under your bibsSounds riveting but I'm not a fag. I'm going to be wearing athletic hiking tech-pants and probably just some kind of plain t-shirt or button up and a backpack with water and shit.
>>2002290f-slur means fred, the unsolicited random homophobia is cringe
>>2002267when you're going over rough terrain, or loose terrain, the grip shift can make you move your wrist in such a way that affects your grip to the bar.also, the inner mechanism is crowded and small and plasticy which makes it more prone to wearing out is what I heard.but, there's absolutely no reason to change if they function correctly and you like using them. try them out for a while before you needlessly sink money into extras. but the ones in your pic should be legit. triggers are a well established technology.
While 1x is great, because I hate front derailleurs, I can't make up my mind whether I want a chainring optimised for road or trail, since I plan to ride both. So, I'm thinking of buying a 2x or 3x bike, removing the front derailleur, and riding on the biggest ring most of the time, while changing to a smaller ring with my hands on mountain days. Anyone here done that before? It'd be ghetto, but simple.
>>2002293fair enough. though I dont shift unless I'm pretty stablealso why are the things distanced so weird on the left one?[3.2........1]
>>2002267I like gripshift a lot, but my play is having a full length grip too, so on techy stuff I don't have the possibility of shifting. As the other anon said most have kind of cheap internals so they don't feel the best. The advantage is many have 2x the indexing points so you can trim very well.That's actually why I like them, it's like a mix between friction shifting and normal index.>>2002299I love 2x and 3x, but if you don't like the front derailleur you can manual shift the chain. Could also just go friction shifting with a thumby or DT and it works the best. Can always trim to whatever angle you need, easy to setup, and you don't need to get your hands dirty.BITD they had lever front derailleurs.
>>2002291Actually it’s pretty based, just like straight men riding around with strap on dildos in the front
>>2002156your bike is now lubricated by water and road grime
Got my bike serviced by cleaning and greasing the BB and hubs. Now my pedals turn when freewheeling and my chain drops out of the cassette when in the smallest gear if I back pedal.Mechanic says it is because of the new thick grease and it will probably thin out in time and go back to normal as I go ride it out. Should I get it serviced in another shop or is it good?I am going on a relatively long tour (1000+ km tomorrow) and I need help.
>>2002052Why do americans and third worlders ride these stupid ass types of bikes? Can't you just loom at europeans and buy proper bike for your application? They already almost perfected them.
>>2002319Do you have some old-ass cup-and-cone BB? Or, is the sticking mostly on the rear hub side?
>>2002299how often do you actually use the small ring? i find that 50t is fine for me on short climbs, so thinking of replacing my 2x with narrow-wide 1x, maybe even in 56t.
>>2002351rear hub. but got the chain dropping fixed. it was the RD not being aligned properly. 2nd mechanic says the pedal thing was normal.
>>2002354Not often, but I find that not even a 38t provides enough torque during steep climbs up smooth stone. Might be a tyre issue of course, but I'd like the option.
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Is this the lightest seat post WITH suspension (350 grams) ?
