not my problem.(the washers)
I hate mostly modern gay shit like integrated handlebars, internal housing in bars, headsets, and frames.

I also hate jank standards for no good reasons. Yes, we have had fucked standards since the dawn of time, but it's getting worse... particularly with mtb width and hubs.
>yeah we don't want to use 157mm because............ boost and super boost, and quad boost.
>20mm? nah lets go back to 15mm
>30.9mm seatposts? nah 34.9

Get non poorfag cartridge pads and you only need to adjust them once and you once you round off the screw you don't need to worry about changing pads at all

>>2002756
rimjob brakes in general. disk brakes are so much easier to adjust, and pads last so much longer. and rims don't die.
>but but bleeding them
first, mechanical ones are still exponentially easier to set up, and second, vast majority of hydro brakes have shorter life expectancy than their oil replacement intervals. you only have to bleed them if you fuck up and let air in or something.

>>2002759
kek what? No fucking way
>ting, ting ting
bend
>ting ting ting
bend
>ting ting
FUCK OFF
Sure, canti's are annoying to set up but road calipers? v brakes? piss easy.

>>2002759
>mechanical ones are still exponentially easier to set up
Wrong. I have set up both and you are 100%, undeniably, absolutely wrong.

>>2002756
Pull the brakes so the pads make light contact, push them into the correct place and orientation while holding the brake, fasten them. Easy.

>>2002756
Sounds like a skill issue.
I love everything about bicycles.

>>2002756
How some frames don't give enough clearance for a larger width tire. I bought a Maxxis DHR for my hardtail. Very slight frame rub. Its functional but I hate it.

>>2002763
I use a shoelace to hold the lever and some card to shim the rear of the pad

>>2002761
>slightly unscrew both bolts so that caliper slides but doesn't lift
>screw the idle side in a bit
>tug on the lever
>screw both of the main bolts
>adjust spacing with idle side screw and cable screw and bam, perfectly parallel, quick and easy. hydros and double-pull ones skip second and last steps because they are completely self-adjusting, but cheap mechs are still pretty much automatic.
>>2002760
bend what? the disc? if your disc tings after setting it up with the patented method above, you got a bent disc, which means you were rough with it. like, gorilla rough. if it's a single piece rotor, you can fix it with a screwdriver by applying some calculated lever action, good thing your bike already comes with a convenient caliper-shaped disc-truing stand to check for straightness. if it's one of the fancypants multi-piece ones, you brought it upon yourself, don't be a gorilla next time.

File: Rim Brake and Pad types.jpg (1.01 MB, 3200x810)

1.01 MB JPG

>>2002756
smooth post is the superior choice, many adjustments.
>although the best type is bending the entire brake arm, very old school.

>>2002784
It's called a 203mm rotor.
You might not understand.

>>2002759
Mechanical dicks are absolutely categorically not easier to set up than hydraulic dicks

>>2002759
>rims don't die
never had a rim fail when either pumping up or just at the wrong time during your ride ? Pro tipp: Many rims nowadays come with a wear mark that either appears or disappears and once that happens you should replace the rim.

>>2002756
Electrical shifters. Yeah, it's convinient, but I dont want to have even more chargable equipment in my life
Plus it's expensive, so fuck it

Dressing up for a ride in winter.

>>2002756
Aren't those thing basically self adjusting. Tighten them up just sligthly then squeeze the brake and they adjust themselves. You can put a plastic card between the rim and the trailing edge of the brake pad before you squeeze to get the toe-in automatically.

Rain pants make me miserable

>>2002759
maybe hydros but mech dick is just trouble.
Nothing has been easier than a nice set of dual-pivot calipers.

File: 1674929805495668.gif (1.43 MB, 255x255)

1.43 MB GIF

>>2002771
dood if your tire is rubbiing on your frame it's not functional, fix that shit asap

File: file.png (1.41 MB, 1024x768)

1.41 MB PNG

>>2002759
this but with drum brakes
>>2002814
>wear mark that either appears or disappears and once that happens you should replace the rim
guess what? disc and drum brakes do not wear the rim. Have fun changing your wheels every other year

File: Shimano USA tech support 1988.jpg (1.01 MB, 1476x1048)

1.01 MB JPG

>>2002756
the trick is to lightly grease the mating parts of the washers, and the thread (clean first unless they're new).

>>2002771
Young /n/igga, go to Menard's, buy a 3/16" woodruff key, round off the edges, and use it w/ a c-clamp to dimple the chainstay.
Ask yourself, do you want good paint, or good tire clearance?

>>2003262
i have my wheels from the 90s and its still fine
how much breaking do you do

>>2002756
Lack of a common universal deraulleur hanger found on anything except one (SRAM UDH on the thru-axle, installed on only some bikes).
It's designed to fail/snap to save the frame, so you'd think they'd make it easy to replace, but NO

>>2003446
>tfw no qt mechanic girl that fixes my bike and gently scolds me for not taking better care of it
no i'm not down bad

>>2002757
Seatpost diameters don't matter unless you invest in something stupid like Thompson

>>2002760
With rim brakes you get the same effect every time it rains, but the sound is even worse and everything is covered in brake pad dirt after each ride.
If you live in a rainy region and commute by bike rim brakes will drive you nuts.
Also there are no light wide rims for rim brake bikes, just like there are no good full fenders for 26" bikes. I chose to buy a new commuter bike this year because it let me fit SKS Bluemels Style 65 fenders with 2.2x29" Continental Race King tires mounted to 30mm carbon rims and Shimano disc brakes. Better than any 26er I've owned in every way

>>2003446
Yeah, you clearly haven't done this. If they are greased they will slip no matter how hard you tighten them

>>2004170
I do it every time, which is a lot.

glad you could learn something lol

>>2004169
>there are no good full fenders for 26" bikes
Lol what? That's really not true. VO and Honjo and what exactly is wrong with even the SKS ones?

>there are no light wide rims for rim brake bikes
because wide rims are a meme that doesn't matter

>I bought a new commuter bike and it's better than all my old shitters
yeah duh lol

There's a top bike mechanic near me, so once I've put a build together I take it to him for a final tuning, well worth it, he gets everything spot on, especially cantis. I'm fine with pretty much everything else, but i have always struggled getting those set up right, they either squeal (yes I know about toeing in), or they are slightly askew when viewed front on, it's definitely an art.

There's a reason why shimano supplied bike shops with those fitting braces with their sets in the 80s and 90s.

File: IMG20240619201023.jpg (3.02 MB, 3072x4080)

3.02 MB JPG

>>2002756
Punctures
I've been tubeless for so long I forgot how annoying these are

>>2004173
There is no VO or Honjo where I live.
And SKS makes full fenders (as in less than 15cm from the mud flap to the ground) only in 29"

File: grandpa jobst.png (59 KB, 884x1130)

59 KB PNG

>>2002787
Old-school doesn't mean it's good by default. There's plenty of dead-ends and bad practices from cycling yore.

But shout out for Yokozuna smooth post, replaceable cartridge shoes. Because they're actually available, unlike the Kool Stop ones.

>>2002760
>bend
You're actually fucking retarded.
>>2002814
>"rim brakes don't die, you just need to replace them"
OK, so they die then? They're a wear item which once worn is irreparable and must be replaced?
>>2004128
There is absolutely nothing you can say to me to make me believe that a rim-brake bicycle wheel has been in continual service for a quarter of a century and hasn't worn through. Nothing. Anyone who has ridden the same bike for a year, and especially though a winter, is completely immune to being fooled by this claim, which tells me you haven't.

I have wheels from the 80's which are still fine, because they've been sitting indoors doing nothing for 99% of their life.

>>2004294
How else do you fix bent rotors besides bending them?

>>2004295
If truing it once doesn't fix it the rotor's warped and you're banging your head against the wall trying to repair a broken rotor.

Wheels can be trued over and over because their shape is the result of typically 20-32 tension points, disc rotors are a single piece of material which, once warped, is fucked. They're more like those 3-spoke carbon TT wheels; it's either the right shape or it isn't.

>>2004294
bike was ridden for past 3 years and pads worn down to the stumps but the wheel is fine
why would metal wear out when you press rubber on it?

>>2004312
Because dirt/dust (which on roads is mainly asphalt aggregate) is thrown up by the wheels or other vehicles, gets on the pads via the rim, and once on the pads it scratches the rim. Once there's a scratch it propagates and catches more dirt, and so on until the surfaces become concave and thin.

>bike was ridden for past 3 years and pads worn down to the stumps but the wheel is fine
If you go through 1 set of pads every 3 years then I can more easily understand why you believe rims don't wear out. Take a metal ruler and a flashlight to the rim, it won't be perfectly flat, it'll shine through the middle.

>>2004296
I figured it out, was just pissed as hell since noises like that drive me up a wall until I fix it.
Bleed the brakes too and that was enough after all kinds of bending
all kinds.

>>2002759
>vast majority of hydro brakes have shorter life expectancy than their oil replacement intervals
retard alert

>>2002756
Cup and cone maintenance triggers me so hard, grease gets everywhere and finding the perfect balance between smoothness vs play triggers my obsessive compulsiveness. I wish all bearings are cartridge bearings, even if I can set cup and cone smoother and lower friction.

>>2002756
cyclists

>>2003262
"have fun changing your wheels every other year"

I ride 5,000 to 6,000 miles every year exclusively on bikes that are rim brakes and am only just now having to replace the wheel for my single speed... that has 7,000 miles on it and had 3 spokes break. This is the dumbest thing I'll read today.

>>2006008
nta but having to get new wheels every 7000 miles is laughable, you expect me to think that's ok?

>>2006010
they were shitty stock wheels from an online bike store that cost me $200 - and the front one is still good to go. Rims were still in good condition and so I'm taking the opportunity to do it as a wheel build project. You're making it into a bigger issue than it actually is.

>>2004128
>i have my wheels from the 90s and its still fine
>how much breaking do you do

I have 20 year old bikes with over 20,000 miles. A rubber pad will never wear a metal rim.

However I have seen a rim with the side wall so worn that it was almost exposing the bead channel on the inside. I don't know how they did it or how it happened. It was a bike left on the side of the road. It can occur but honestly it has never happened to me.

File: Bendix Coastre Brake Part(...).jpg (160 KB, 957x663)

160 KB JPG

>>2002756

Inb4
>I need more gears
Pussy

File: Capture.jpg (141 KB, 1449x628)

141 KB JPG

>>2006069
not him but
>A rubber pad will never wear a metal rim.
dude most newer rims have wear indicators
it's a little divot or groove in the surface, and when the rest of the rim wears down to that level they disappear and the rim is (conservatively) dangerous.

They do wear down. It's not occasionally, it's almost most old wheels. It's absolutely something that happens.

Wheels without wear indicators will go concave to show they're badly shot.

You're thinking that rubber is softer than metal, therefor it can't wear it down. That's correct, but what happens is that sand and grit get on the rim, especially from riding in the rain and create a kind of grinding paste, also shards of metal imbed in brake pads. Those will wear down aluminium.
There are obviously lots of high mileage old wheels that are fine, but if you ride in the rain, don't regularly clean your rims and pick the metal out of your pads, and do big descents or just brake hard a lot, they will wear out. It is honestly not unusual for some roadies to go through rims every season or two.
It's also not unusual for rims to last practically for ever. It depends on how you ride, how much you ride, and how you maintain your bike.

>>2006079
I believe you, because I saw it. That rim was done. There was cracks forming into the bead channel inside the rim. I think everything you wrote is true.

And I do wipe my rims and will resurface the pads so they brake well. That's probably why it hasn't happened to me. Just like you mentioned

File: rip.jpg (185 KB, 921x1229)

185 KB JPG

>>2006069
20,000 miles over 20 years means those are bikes which never seen a real winter ride. Here's my wheel that saw close to triple that mileage over the course of 5 years doing courier work regularly being overloaded in aggressive stop and go traffic in rain, snow, and salt. I will say though, it takes a lot to crack a rim from regular use, I also frequently neglect cleaning and maintaining my bike during the winter months because it'll just get dirtied again so in reality, those rims could've lasted double the mileage if I was strictly a fair weather cyclist on top of my maintenance game, so yeah, your normal person wouldn't even come close to wearing out a wheel.

>>2006516
Yeah I only rode in socal and AZ. There's no slush from the snow, no sand and no salt