"Using wood to repair steel frame" editionResources:https://www.sheldonbrown.com/https://www.parktool.com/en-us/blog/repair-helpPrevious thread: >>2003899
>>2005789the previous thread is on page 3, we don't need a new one yet.
>>2005789Is that a calfee?
>>2005791Might as well be dead once it hits bump limit and drops off page one.
>>2005798yeah, if it's not right at the top of the slowest board on 4chan, it's totally dead. retard.
>>2005799People don't like to post their questions in a thread that doesn't bump. It greatly reduces the chances of getting an answer.
>>2005691 >>2005698 >>2005699 >>2005717 >>2005718thanks guys, I'll try to check. one thing fur sure I need to order myself some tools...guess next question is what kind of tools should I have? i got a multitool and flat pedal wrench. I'm thinking of buying an adjust able wrench (up to 35mm 6inch length will it be enough?), set of Allen keys, msybe pliers? dont know what I'd use them for.guess I'd also need crank puller, bottom bracket tool and cassette removing tools, tonservice everything.
I want to buy a new bike, what should I get?
>>2005831The new Giant Escape Disc with CUES 2x9 drivetrain. Go to the Bike Buying General thread if you disagree.
>>2005830Pliers are good if you need to setup mechanical cable brakes or your front/rear derailleurs.Allens are good for damn near most fasteners, if your bike uses torx get a set for those too.Crank puller(if your bike needs it, modern ones don't always need it), bb tool(one that fits your bike), and a cassette removing tool are all good.If you don't have bike chain lube get some of that. Louds squeaky chains can mask a ton of stuff. Then watch some park videos or RJ the bike guy stuff.>>2005831Local 80's road bike for high speed good deal action. Or a 26in mtb from 2014 or earlier, dirt cheap now.
>>2005836>Pliers are good if you need to setup mechanical cable brakes or your front/rear derailleurs.ew no
>>2005838>just pull it with your fingers, bro
Why the FUCK don't seatposts, stems and frames have a centerline to show when they're perfectly straight? This should have been an industry standard feature a decade ago.
>>2005842Many modern seatposts have height alignment and a vertical line on the back going down. You could align that with the slit of your seat tube/clamp.Stems can have the pinch bolts in the back, and you can align that with the top tube(kinda).Your frame should be straight already, maybe because my tubes are straight I don't have this issue.
>>2005839yes
>>2005842because it's not hard to align them yourself. i become enraged every time i see a new fancy laser tool used to align stems. it's not that fucking hard.
Tried putting a store bought BMX bike together and the handlebars are always a bit loose so that a big turn will wind up with them misaligned but the provided allenkey doesn’t seem to be tightening it any further. How do I tighten this thing so it’s rock solid? Should I try find a screwdriver that will fight and just crank it?
why dont they make shorts with a smooth ass and crotch but with baggy sides for pockets
>>2005836need to figure out how to identify what tools are compatible. i think I have all shimano stuff, shimano stuff from 92.is it all compatible with "shimano" tools?
>>2005861You mean the stem is slipping right? Quill stem or threadless stem? The answer is invariably to clean and grease (non teflon) things before tightening, on the threads of the bolts, very lightly on the mating surfaces, and quill stems require a fuckload of grease around the wedge. Cheap bikes are typically assembled badly without enough or any grease, even in the bearings. You don't really want more torque than you can generate with a typical allen key for those fasteners (some of them, much less), but if it's a quill stem bolt, and you're a sissy, and the allen key is very short, maybe you want slightly more than that, and you can just slip something over the end of it for slightly more leverage, not a lot more though, those bolts can snap. The key is correct application of grease.
>>2005789That looks like copper to me. In fact it is definitely copper, you can't rivet wood like that. Also we didn't need a new thread. OP is mentally retarded.
>>2005861If you mean that the bars themselves are slipping, again, grease the bolts, lightly grease the mating surfaces. Tighten the bolts (if more than one) gradually and alternately, if 4 bolts, like that and in a star pattern. You can definitely get enough torque for a handlebar clamp with a short allen key. It's possible you have been chinked by a bar clamp that is larger than your bar, and it's running out of room to clamp tighter, you should be able to visually work out if this is happening, in which case you need to shim your bar.Also while your short allen key is fine, a nice set of long allen keys is pretty much tool no 1 for working on bikes. Wera ones are the best but anything premium is fine.
>>2005861post pic
>>2005842May proprietary seatposts curse your future.
Anyone have any good suggestions for a commuting camera? Don't really want to spend much more than $150, all I really want is to be able to make out registration plates if something happens. Leaning towards an akaso V50X. Anyone else with some experience with these or something similar?
Hey /n/ I'm the anon who had a clicking bike a few weeks back. Turns out it was the pedal. Wellgo design is unsealed, some dirt got in there and pitted the cylinder quite badly (partly my fault for not servicing immediately once sound appeared).Managed to service them, was a little tricky getting the tightness right to allow free spinning without any play. The job also took me a few hours, but satisfying. Realising that I need a garage when I buy a flat so I can have a bench and some space dedicated to bike maintenance.So tired now, will try and finish the rest of the service next week (squeeky gear cable)
>>2005868Most riders don't like shit going up and down when pedalling, and the ones that are okay with that just ride in cargo shorts.>>2005869Figure out what you have exactly...Like what variant of shimano parts, then look at what tools can remove them for greasing and other maintenance..>>2005926Good job. Cheaper pedals like that tend to be fussy to maintain, but they last a pretty long time and should spin nice.
>>2005868I have no idea what that would mean, but there are cargo bibs if that's what you're asking. They usually cost a little more because of the grabble tax
>>2005938Like assless chaps but the assless part is skintight lycra
>>2005938Didnt MTB-tards solve (their) problem long ago in the form of bib-free cycling undies ?
>>2005842because closing one eye and looking at the stem is easy
>>2005861beer can shim
There's a piece of grit or something inside of my rims, I tried taking the tube off and getting it to fall out through the valve hole but it didn't work. I can only hear it when I have the bike up and I'm working on the chain or something but it still bothers me, any ideas? Could I pour some water into the rim and see if that picks it up and flows out? Rims are H+Son Archetypes.
>>2005842Why the fuck do (you), being assymetrical, care more about your bike being set up symmetrically than it being set up to suit (you) ?The goal of setting up a bike is to have it suit the rider and not some idea of how a bike should be set up.>inb4 perfectly symmetrical bodies should be industry standard
>>2005928well, bottom bracket is this. and someone told me they aren't serviceable, which sucks if true.also clicking was not bottom bracket.i think it was the pedal like with other anon. couldn't take It apart though. need a ratchet to get to the bearing. the bike is from 92 i think and I dont think anyone ever serviced it. everything is stuck pretty hard.
>>2005969eh, not really. that's a sealed unit whereas the serviceable kind is loose bearing. the regular sealed units are cheap enough that it's cheaper than paying yourself minimum wage to troubleshoot and service a loose bearing system. or very close. however there are expensive sealed units, and servicing loose balls is not really hard or anything you should pay extra to avoid, but it does take longer than just throwing a new sealed unit in.the reality is, no matter what you have, very little ever goes wrong with a BB of any type.
>>2005976famous last words.in reality they are fucked on a regular basis. BBs die all the time.
>>2005980Dang man.Was it lots of water riding or beach action?Or just abuse?My cup and cone bb's are doing pretty good still.
if you never lose traction, would tires last indefinitely i.e. never wear?
>>2005984You abrade your tire everytime you put power down, so it will still wear. If the rubber was harder it would have a higher chance of slipping, but would wear slower.If you want slow wearing tires get the largest size schwalbe marathon you can fit.
>>2005976well I'm a poorfag so I'd rather service it myself. though it works fine so I should be good for a while.pedal bearings on the other hand I need to do something about. or maybe just buy cheap pedals?.. i saw some for like 3 euro.and wheel hubs. they are not smooth.
>>2005799>>2005791Nerd emoji
>>2005969can I replace this with a serviceable one or is that dumb?i dont see why this kind of thing would be unserviceable. its not like it helps with anything right?
>>2006005Technically sealed cartridge square taper bb's are serviceable. You can buy bearings and knock/hammer them off and use a press/hammer them on(some people don't like this).Or you can pop a seal, clean out the old grease, and regrease.However most people don't want to spend the time, or money to do that and just buy a new one.Old cup and cone bb's may exist somewhere but I only find them on used bikes, and they tend to be in good shape so I regrease and go.
>>2006006ah.how do i wash the old greace out? just water and soap aand leave it to dry for a day?
>>2006009Wipe it out with a rag, you don't need it perfectly degreased just cleaner
>>2005982Thats out of my primary commuter. Takes abour a year to get to that state. I don't ever leave any bike outside and clean and service regularly. The rusty bit is just cosmetic and caused by salt the cageoid randomly throws everywhere in winter. This bearing as usually was just clapped out and one crank arm was bent and almost hitting the stay, the non-replaceable chainwheel was at the very end of its useful life. So I went to 24mm on that bike too since not only I needed to do the BB as every year but also needed a chainwheel and having straight cranks is nice too. The tread width went down ! Pleasant surprise.
Is there a way to get these types of old cup-and-cone bottom bracket out without the special spanner and the wrenches? The bottom brackets do not need to be extracted in working condition. I just need to get them out without damaging the frame or the threading.
>>2006016Flat head screw driver or chisel. Rest it in the corner in one of the serrations and give it a whack with a hammer. Or whatever other method you find to make the spinny thing spin.
>>2005869Picture of your bike and close ups of components of we can never helpWhat's the farthest you've ever driven for a bike or parts? For me 2 hours
>>2005980not in my oldfag experience. sounds like a skill issue
>>2005926
>>2005988>. they are not smoothdon't ride them until you can service them if you can avoid it.bearings and grease are cheap. you will need a proprietary tool to get the gear cluster off but they're mostly cheap . you need a cone wrench for the cones which isn't expensive and a regular wrench for the locknut .the park tool link in op will have instructions plus a video
>>2006013Ah, must be some real winters then. I used to commute a short 5 miles each way to school and never had that issue.... but it doesn't rain nor snow so no salt action, and I have old fancy stuff. Hopefully the external cup bearing setup works better for you.
>>2006016I have 2 different hook spanners like that and almost never get good engagement with them on lockrings. I usually use waterpump pliers. Once the lockring is off you'll have revealed a section of thread on the bb cup which you could also remove with big pliers, if you don't mind destroying it. >>2006019this works too >>2005988imo servicing cheap pedals is kinda retarded. They're not really designed to be serviced and usually once you're done they aren't even nice and smooth.
>>2006016the lockring I do what anon says. for the pin spanner I make it out of coat hanger wire. hold one side only as big as your hand, then bend the rest of it with the hook and other side perpendicular to the side you're holding. THEN cut the other side off into 2 or 3mm nubs. you don't want the grip to be too long or it'll bend when you torque it. if you have a file , file the nubs' heads flat. lots of nail trimmers have a file if you don't have a real one. you can wrap a rag around for grip so it doesn't cut into you
>>2005976>very little ever goes wrong with a BB of any typedepends on what you consider a problem. 90% of bikes never have their bb changed in their entire life cycle. So anything that's old or been used much is going to have a crunchy bb with play in it and fucked bearings. It doesn't not spin though. You can still ride the bike. It's just less nice to ride. Hell often i open up old bbs and the balls have exploded and it still spins.
>>2006031>lots of nail trimmers have a filelol uhhhalso you need to file the circumference of the nubs down a little, atleast i had to when i made one. Now have the park. Honestly though a diy pin spanner, or really, a pin spanner at all, is only going to work because that cup is usually pretty loose. Pliers or tappa are stronger methods for removal. Pin spanners exist for nice adjustment on installs.
>>2006011can't really wipe anything cause its all deep in there
>>2006009>how do i wash the old greace out? just water and soap?Kerosene and rags. WD40 or CRC is ok too. >>2006037>can't really wipe anything cause its all deep in thereyou can you just gotta really shove em in
>>2006037??? never had any trouble wiping down any of the cups or races anywhere on any of my bikes. you stick your finger into the rag and run it around the race. do it again with a clean part of the rag to get it down to bare metal
>>2006022>farthest for partswell, China. i dont buy local shit cause too expensive.can't take closeups right now (other than the BB I posted earlier) cause its night.but it has 92 deore lx https://www.shimano.com/en/100th/history/products/result.php?id=51#gallery-2other than the shifters. >>2006027hard not to ride when its your mode of transportation. i have a flat wrench, planning to get a adjustable wrench also.>>2006030are those kind of pliers worse for other stuff than an adjustable wrench? cause it feels super convenient should I buy 3 euro pedals and call it a day?if a bolt on the end could be undone, I'd just clean and grease them. but that would need a 12mm ratchet with a big handle. shit didn't budge.>>2006038>>2006039i really dont get what you guys mean. how am I supposed to get in there? >>2005969
>>2006009>how do i wash the old greace out? just water and soapmy method, not just for pedals, but everything is:spray bottle of simple green degreaser>convenience bucket of hot water with dishsoap>cleaning most stuff especially dirt, soaking things, usually fill this up if i'm doing much bike stuff plastic lacquer rice bowl that i fill with kerosene>cleaning tough grime and bearings, soaking things, main serious cleaner CRC spray >convenience on grime 100% isopropyl spray bottle >cleaning surfaces that need to be perfectly clean, ie, brake tracks, grip area dish brushgreen scourer tooth brushes rags from old tshirts
>>2006041>are those kind of pliers worse for other stuff than an adjustable wrench? cause it feels super convenientIt's usually gonna work... sure. You don't even need need an adjustable wrench for many things on a bicycle. It's mostly just used to hold other tools, or, threaded headsets. The serrated jaws are gonna mark stuff which will cause wear on your tools. It can slip off and damage the flats. You're applying a crushing force, which on something like a thin headset lockring might actually damage it. And you have to hold it tight which is gonna be hard if you're trying to really wail on something, for bbs i often use a long bar over the wrench, that's not gonna work with pliers. But sure you could usually bodge it and get away fine. >>2006041>should I buy 3 euro pedals and call it a day?no you should buy 15 euro pedals and call it a day.
>>2006044I'd rather buy 10 euro worth of tools and service the old ones if new pedals are gonna cost 15.
>got an old bike with too big of a dent and too much rusting on the frame to be worth fixing>full Deore DX groupset including the hubs and pedals, everything seems to work except for the rear shifter levers being a little mushy>frame will be trashed but the components will be savedDid I do okay for $25?
>>2006067yes
>>2006067Oh yeah
>>2006053usually i would agree with this ethos but you can buy nice pedals for $15, which is a major upgrade, and your old shit pedals aren't really even designed to be serviced
>>2006029My commute is 32 km and in winter it's often slush. You know, nice snow but cagers seasoning the roads. And one half of the year it's always pouring. Even if I check the forecast and choose ro ride a nice bike it ends up pouring anyways.
>>2006024actually ride your bike and squat heavy every day maybe
>>2006024dyer?
>>2005789Hello guys! I'm the upright-maxxing retard from a month or two ago. The one who bought a stupid Dutch bike from some sussy Russians or some shit.Anyways I ended up going to an actual bike shop and buying this beauty. I've been riding obsessively for like a month or two now. This is legitimately the most fun I've had in years. Cured my depression and fixed my erectile dysfunction. The only single complaint I have with the bike is that I wish it had harder gearing. My highest gear is 8 and the highest speed I can reach on a flat without turning my legs into a turbo prop is 30 (maybe up to 35) km/h. The highest speed I've ever recorded is 50 on a huge downhill but I was too scared to go faster than that in a T shirt and shorts lol. I come here to seek sage advice once more. Cont.
>>2006089Cont: The problem that I am having is that shit just keeps flying into my face. I talked to the bike store guys and they told me to get the little front mud flap thing that attaches under the frame. It costed me 10 bucks and it works! But still I have a problem with the rear wheel flinging shit into my frame and back and backpack. The guys at the bike store are telling me that the only thing I can do is mount one of those flaps that attaches directly to the seatpost, but all the ones I've seen seem to be mounted really really high up. I guess it would protect the rider from the rear wheel but not my poor frame. They tell me you can't really mount a close fender on a MTB because the wheel is so dummy thick or something; but like you see in the picture I do seem to have some sort of hole back there. I think that this hole is for mounting a rear fender, if not then what is it for?I also want to mount a rear rack eventually so the high seat flap thing doesn't seem like it would be compatible with that. Can anyone plz offer advice? I'm sick of picking up globs of mud and debris from my frame :(
>>2006090They make mudguards that attach to the seat stays
>>2006094>attach to the seat staySorry for my retardation but what does that mean? Pic rel looks like it just straps on the top line leading to the rear wheel. I would be kinda worried about it slipping down and getting caught in the wheel :/
>>2006090>if not then what is it for?for mounting a caliper brake, this model bike must also be offered with a set of rim brakes for cheaper.but you could mount a fender there if you want. there are fenders that come that big, you just have to sort through the listings . some people diy things out of old 2 litre soda bottles etc. but if you mount a rack there, it will effectively also act as a fender, so you may as well do that and then you have both
>>2006075no they are, the bolt just seized so I can't undo it without a ratchet otherwise they are fine. i dont see what they could put in a pedal to make it so expensive. its a piece of plastic on a bearing. it shouldn't be that expensive.
>>2006090somethng like this maybe, just type in MTB mudguard https://a.aliexpress.com/_EGqG4VN
>>2006101>no they areNo, they aren't I've serviced dozens of shit pairs of pedals and they usually don't end up smooth. There's no good way to adjust them and if they're rough now you will want new ball bearings.and likely the bearing surfaces are damaged. It's a waste of time. They are serviceable but not designed to be serviced. >>2006101>i dont see what they could put in a pedal to make it so expensive.lmao $15 for semi decent chinkshit is expensive??? I wonder how much i'd have to pay you to fucking make anything, store it, sell it, and ship it. Nice nice pedals are way more than that. And the difference is the shape of the pedal body on semi nice pedals is way nicer to ride on. It's probably the best upgrade you can make to any bike.
>>2006095anon if you don't know what a term means, google it. I'm all for handholding but meet us halfway.
>>2006089>My highest gear is 8Count the number of teeth on the smallest cog of the cassette. If it's 12, you could cheaply/easily replace it with an 11t cog. That would give you a slightly higher gear. The main problem is that your chainring (the front gear) is tiny (tiny in front is low, tiny in rear is high). Count the number of teeth it has. Nice cranksets have replaceable chainrings, held in with allen bolts, that is a crappy crankset with riveted chainrings, so you can't just put a different chainring on, you would need to buy a different crank. The best way to do this is to find a nice crank, used, cheap, and buy a new chainring for it. A larger chainring will make all of your rear gears higher, so you will lose climbing ability. You would also need a new chain and potentially a differently sized bottom bracket. It's also possible to swap to a crankset with 2 or 3 chainrings, but then you would also need a front derailer, and front shifter.
>>2006104nigga my bike costs 15$.
>>2006096that hole is for mudguards anon
>>2006089another installement of my favourite show recently. Let's see what the play writer has in store for us today.>beautycongrats on new bike.>erectyle disfunctionweren't you femanon last time ?>without turning my legs into a turbo propWhile it may not be backed by solid evidence and I want to challenge the concept at times... a very common and traditional idea is that your gearing is perfect for you as a beginner rider. Novice riders may or may not have good strength but there is a concensus that the novice rider will always prefer and attempt to go faster by relying excessively on strength, not speed. This is said to be the cause of very painful knee issues that plague many riders.You see everyone can easily single leg squat before starting out. And on a bicycle your force output is realistically more or less limited to that of the single leg squat, aka body weight.>inb4 elite rider putting down more torque than their weight would theoretically allow for on occassions and for a very brief periodNow what not everyone can do right of the bat is spin. Because spinning out on a bike is a completely novel challenge and life did not prepare you for that.While everyone may be different people are more like one another than different. And we know for a fact that the range where riders produce their highest power output is a cadence of around 110-120 s^-1. The same applies for you.So: According to old wisdom you should work on spinning fast. Count the number of times your right foot crosses through the bottom of the stroke for a period of 10 seconds. If you count to 20 youre spinning at 120. Go beyond that. Learn to produce force at that speed. Once you're at the point where you really can single leg squat at a cadence > 100 (thats 2kw output assuming average body weight) and sustain for 5 seconds you should worry about your gearing.On a side note: Because of the body weight limit thing you'll never go anywhere near fast at a low cadence.>fendersrequired
>>2006112so what? That's like saying you're not going to wear comfortable shoes because your bike cost $15.
>>2006122i agree with most of this but spinning a high cadence takes good pedaling form which you can only really develop after riding a lot (and with a bike that fits you well). It's definitely worth trying to spin rather than mash but you're not going to be able to sustain it comfortably until you've been riding for quite a long time and I don't think a super high cadence is particularly efficient for weak riders either (read a few things to this extent). https://youtu.be/BFhA56W8y1A?t=24will give a good idea about cadence. Imo ~80 rpm is more like what a beginner should aim for.
>>2006131Poor people can't afford comfortable shoes.
>>2006131i have had 5$ shoes for the past 4 years and they're comfortable enough.
>>2006133The only point I >>2006122 am trying to drive home is:The general concensus is low cadence high gear killed far more knees than mad spinny action.Beginner or not, physiology dictates best power lies slighly above 100 s^-1. We see this consistently. Trying for a PR sprint through an increase in gearing before developing the ability to sit in that power band comfortably will only increase force and drop cadence even further.80 rpm, 100rpm, 150 rpm... probably doesn't matter at this point. Anon >>2006089should assess their cadence and act accordingly. And if anon currently self selects 60, who cares. Shoot for 'more' and assess where at in a week or so.Just tryna save an Anons knee.t. Wrecked knees.
want to replace my old ripped saddle only commuter/gravel bike, but most I see have no springs in the back. is my ass gonna suffer?
My hands got too much pressure on them when I ride, and if I try to relax I start sliding or falling forward. How do I fix that? move the saddle backwards and angle upwards? My dick gets numb though.
>>2006096I may just buy a rack first and then see what fender might fit from there.>>2006102I can't read Russian :*(I'm looking on Amazon rn.>>2006105Sorry I know what it means I just didn't see how the picture had anything to do with it. That's a full sus on the pic, I don't think it would work on that anyways.>>2006110Actually I had no idea that the front gear was inverted to the rear :0I'm too stupid to understand why this works.I really like this bike because it only has one gear shifter, which is easier for my peanut brain. I am going to keep this in mind in case I need it for the future but after reading >>2006122 >>2006133 and >>2006155 I think I'm going to try to get used to higher cadence first. >>2006122>congrats Thanks, I love my bike so much <3>weren't you femanon last time ?After a couple of weeks on the bike I successfully transitioned to improve my wattage. (JK I never mentioned my gender b4).>your force output is realistically more or less limited to that of the single leg squat, aka body weight.I noticed when trying to go uphill hella fast I literally cannot push down hard enough because I just lift myself off the seat. I started pulling my handlebars to my chest to physically force my body back down on the bike while pedaling very hard. I don't know if this is bad?>high cadence is betterI don't have any of those clipping shoes so my legs spinning super fast (especially with very low engagement with the gear) is super duper scary. I've been perhaps a little more forceful than I should have, I didn't realize there was a risk to your knees. I'll take your advice and see if I hit 20 in 10 but I'm almost certain it's closer to 1/s max because I'm scared of losing grip on the pedal. I think I might need more exp.
>>2006172russian? wat?
>>2006164This means you need to raise your bars up. You might also be riding a bike with too much reach. Bars up and back. You might also want to check what bringing your saddle back does for you. But there lies a caveat: Saddle further back does not change your weight distribution independently of your power output, it does more for you during high power output than compared to cruising.>>2006172A rack ? Why do I still have the impression you're offering peak niche entertainment here and know exactly what you're doing. Anyways, I'm here for more.You are correct in yout observation that spinning fast is challenging in terms of coordination. Foot retention, while I generally recommend it, would only serve to mask the issue.Again: Don't try to meet a set target but try to push the envelope without compromising. Don't bounce up and down in your saddle, loose your pedals and what not. Just try a bit faster than usual, sustain that and if you keep up eventually you'll be a whirlwind. Periodically assess only to understand where you're at.Just wave good bye to that idea that the person who put together the selection of components on your bike had zero idea of what they were doing and you needed to change everything. The gearing is fine for now. This is much better than in the 80s and 90s, where you'd buy a road bike and simply got the same road double and 13-21 casette that the pros used... because the pros use it...
>>2006184My bars are as high as they can go... fug
>>2006186Riser stem
>>2006194i got threaded
>>2006197On ebay there are older MTB quill stems, and ATB stems that have rise built in.Just figure out what length, rise, and bar size you need.Nitto, origin 8, and other brands make them now too.
>>2006172A bigger chain ring helps if you want speed
What can I expect from my future bike topstone apex 1, never had sram shifters or setup or hydraulic brakes
>>2006198Sounds pretty complex, I'm pretty new. I seen some longer stems that look like they are the same triangle on the bottom locking mechanism. Guess I could try it.
is this a good deal? how reliable is it gonna be?
>>2006210Man a $25 dollar one would last you a quarter of a lifetime, for $5 what are you expecting. I'm sure if you're a fair weather cyclist it'll be just fine for at least a year or two.
>>2006209Just do some measurements, learn, and then try some stuff out.Look local too on whatever used markets you have. Sometimes you can find that stuff cheap. >>2006204Hydraulics are easier braking generally and feel nice. I havent' used sram road shifters so I can't say. Cannondale were one of the original aluminum bike makers so the frame should be solid. I bet you will like it.
>>2006210Find out yourself. Chinese stuff straight from ali is kind of a crapshoot.
>>2006211>>2006213poorfag gotta poor, man.already ordered myself a 5$ chain too, cause the checker tool del through the old one so bad.. and this thingI'll report about it when I get it in 2 weeks I guessa 7€ pump i got was pretty cool. but tpu tubes were kinda mixed bag.
very stupid questionshould i be able to move the bike pedal easily by hand when doing so clockwise/forward
>>2006221let's be clear first, are you asking if it's the pedal or the crank that can spin easily? Both shouldn't have any resistance, especially if you're checking when the wheel is off the ground, however, through experience, new pedals and crank bearings tend to be a little stiff until they have some mileage
>>2006223nta but why? pedals specifically
>>2006225I don't know why myself but maybe tighter tolerances in the smaller pedal bearings makes it tighter than crank bearings until enough wear widens the tolerance into lower friction smoothness. That increased friction during the break-in period is wasted watts, whenever it's time for new pedals, my bike doesn't feel as fast until several hundred miles on the pedals.
>yup, make the dust cover need special tool to open and scratch even if you use that special tool>yup, put a dust cover on there instead of the securing bolt being the dust cover itself like very other cranksetWhat did Shimano mean by this?
>>2006284Shimano assumed you had a pin spanner because their bottom brackets from that era used a pin spanner. It's also more elegant and you can replace it easily with many other types, or just not use one.
>>2006284Someone somewhere has the answer. I just use the modern crankbolt+rubber bit that blocks the threads from getting dirty. I know cranks covers came with a slot in them BITD.Most of my cranks have no cover or just have the bolt+rubber.
Is it possible to remove all the dot fluid and replace it with mineral oil instead for sram
after a run my bike is always full of water, but it only comes out if I flip it. how do i stop this
>>2006340after a rain*
>>2006333Don't. Might fuck up the seals.
>>2006342Is it possible to change? These dot fluids are so expensive and horrible to work with
>>2006344Should have just got shimano, you had to go out of your way to be special and now look what you did to yourself. Just accept that you got a groupset for sexual deviants and relish the perversion that you chose. There's no going back. It's like being a bisexual who chooses to fool around with another man. Now you have cooties and girls won't like you anymore so you might as well just accept your new lifestyle.
>>2006345I don't understand. I only asked because I like the bike I have gotten but the brakes are my worry once I need to bleed them
>>2006197okay look post pic of bike already. Let us know size of frame and your size.>>2006203don't listen to that see above.>>2006210average price for el cheapo bb, they usually do fine and last for a while, maybe as long as pricier options even>>2006211hard to find a BB that lasts a year. I think the most I've ever gotten out of any was the infamous BAS-600, less than 3 years on the daily.Ride your bike some maybe ? Naturally a bike thats terminally in storage will last you a lifetime.>>2006218you dont need ali to get 5 bux chains, or 5 bux BBs even.>>2006221around the center of crank rotation ? if the rear wheel is off the ground it should offer very little resistancearound the pedals axis of rotation ? of course, the pedals should spin freely on their axle.>>2006226mechanical drag, aka not aerodynamic drag, can always be neglected when discussing a sensible bicycles top speed. Even more so at the point of the pedal axle drag is insignificant on power, your pedals spin at your cadence. It's all in your head. Also simply do not use cheap pedals that come with some shitty plastic plain bearing to replace the far side rolling element bearing and there wont be no tight fit loosening up over time.>>2006284Pin spanners. Common tools. They don't slip if youre not a spastic.>>2006333Read up on why brakes use dot fluid. Mineral oils are hydrophobic not hygroscopic. If you know for sure that your brakes never get hot and you wont never get any moisture into the system you'll be fine. Else...>>2006344Whats the problem with brake fluid ?
>>2006346I have only had shimano but most people bleed their brakes way too often anyway. Unless there's an actual leak, hydraulics are just about zero maintenance (other than the pads). Maybe DOT is worse because it sucks up moisture though
>>2006350thats a feature lolyou want that
>>2006350It does soak up moisture. Over here in low humidity land it takes at least 5 years to be an issue.>>2006344Good chance you can use dot 3 or 4 from the auto parts store, or just get 5.1 there. Don't need anything fancy.
>>2006351I want my brakes to enshittify themselves because some motorists unseal their brake lines and dip them in water? how is that a concern for bicycles kept indoors and not driven through lakes twice a day while slashing at the brake lines with box cutters?
>>2006349i dont know the size of my bike. dont know the size of myself for that matter.
>>2006340that's actually kinda normal. bikes have drain holes for a reason. you should just be able to stand it vertical though
>>2006355uhm because there is no such thing as an ideal seal and even if there was there is no material that is ideally impervious either.I'll repeat myself: If you know for a fact you never take your brake fluid past boiling point you'll be fine. In fact you might just put water in, depending on the materials used.
>>2006333disk brakes? can't you just replace it with a shimano mt-200 set? those are dirt cheap.>>2006340where is it pooling up? if it's in a steel or alu frame just drill a tiny hole
Brake fluid vs not brake fluid in your brakes will always be a hilarious argument, it’s so fun watching everyone battle their favorite cycling articles against each other like pokemon
>>2006375itt: not a single article linkeditt: rational arguments regarding the pros, cons and limitation of various alternativesitt: one moron (you) >>2006375
>>2005842because your seat might be crookedmine is
>>2006375>mineral oil brakesshiggy diggyif it ain't DOT, it ain't gonna stop
I recently used hydraulic power steering fluid to top off my mineral oil brakes.Worked great, just weeped a little over the decade.
>>2006184>offering peak niche entertainmentJust wait until I start my bike themed onlyfans! I'm going to make a killing with my hot twink ass in lycra shorts! Joking aside why would wanting a rack clock me as a troll? I think it would be cool to have one of those rack side-backpack things so that I can put my laptop in there and ride to school without wearing one on my back (it gets sweaty and hot).>cadenceI'll take this advice. The clip pedals are way scarier than I'm comfortable with right now, and also I'm not sure if it even makes sense on a mtb like mine. I'll try to control my rhythm and push a little further each time. BTW how should I be pedaling? Should it be a consistent speed and force on the whole rotation, or is it okay to kind of "push" harder down on the pedal when it is at optimal leverage range (between 3 and 5 o'clock I think). I seem to be leaning naturally towards the latter.>>2006173Man the site looks nothing like that on my end. Firefox says it's Russian lmao. I guess I've been hacked or smth idk. I found a similar looking thing and ordered it cheap of my local Amazon. Thanks for the help!>>2006203>>2006349??? I'm not sure I get it but like I already said I'm going to focus on my cadence. If 2rev/s is normal then I have a lot of work to do because I barely feel comfortable at 1/s. I need to work on my feet coordination and build confidence.
>>2005842It's a good idea I'm theory but in practice, the same people who go OCD on alignment will go even crazier when the lines can't match because of manufacturing error or crashed parts. I know because I get stupid about alignment and I've thought about this before and only realize my problem sold be worse when the lines can't line up
>>2006359only leaks out upside down>>2006364idont knowand idont have a drill
will I get jewed if I purchase shimano components (brake levers & calipers) from taiwan seller on ebay? they sell with no retail box
>>2006438>will i get jewedno you'll get chinked. They'll be fake for one. There are a few different types of fake bike parts. Some are just spares from the same production, oem sold illegally, or made by the same factory, pretty much the same, but most are based on the same design but produced to a lower level of quality. With something like brake calipers and levers it's going to mean that you get rougher sloppier pivots and much cheaper/harder rubbers on the hoods/pads. If you're paying much less than the real cost then it's definately going to be the latter. If the price is close then it could be either and why not just buy real parts. Fake chains are the thing to really stay away from imo.
ordered a brand new bike(2021 cannondale trail 5)what tools do i need to assemble it? would some cheap toolkit from amazon suffice?
>>2006455Why didn't you go to a local Cannondale dealer? They probably had a entry level MTB like that in stock.
>>2006455you probably just need metric allen keys and a pedal wrench, which is just a 15 mm spanner. Some pedals can install with allen keys too so you might not even need the spanner. I would get a nice set of allen keys, bondhus, kinchrome, wera, all decent. You could get a metric spanner set if you're interested in having tools, or, just buy a pedal wrench by itself. Icetoolz, park, pedros, all good. You could also just get a 4/5/6 mm combo allen wrench. I personally don't see the point in buying cheap tools because they wear out and can damage fasteners, but you can get the job done with the shittest tools you can find for sure. Also get some grease. You want to lightly grease all the threads (pedals, stem bolts, etc), and the mating parts, like where your seatpost inserts, where the stem clamps, etc. Any grease that doesn't have ptfe in it is fine.
>>2006456i live in a place thats very rural and flat so there isnt any mtb stuff here its all race/city bikescouldnt find any used bikes either so i had to order onefound this for 50% off so i jumped on it>>2006457ok ty! gonna push my luck with a cheap toolkit and get some grease from the hardware store
>>2006438There is a chance it's overstock or take offs. I got a front shimano mt200 brake and it came with adapters and everything, works okay too.Can I tell if it's genuine or not? nope.So only do it on a super sale, or not critical parts. Think I spent 20 bucks for that brake, and it was much better then the tektro mech one.
>>2006458what tool kit are you talking about btw?
>>2006461one of thesewas planning to buy a saddle bag and throw this in there along with a pump and replacement tube
>>2006455you also want a track pump
>>2006462get one without the sockets or box wrenches. Your bike isn't going to have any fasteners like that on it. You only need the allen keys and the philips. also fuck dude just buy a nice set of long allen keys and a track pump... i mean it's not that you can't just use a multi tool and a mini pump but they suck. unless you plan to sell all your shit and move overseas soon.
Don't you want to sit down with your new bike, take it out of the box, and have a nice experience assembling it, drink some beers, be comfy, enjoy yourself?
>>2006464you never know what the feds are up toi'll try to get some proper allen keys and a philips driver instead of the multitoolthanks for the help mate
>>2006455Probably just an allen set. It's aluminum so as long as you dont wrench on it like a gorilla you shouldn't need a torque wrench. If it's shipping directly to you, the handlebars and wheels will probably be off the frame and that's like 5 minutes of work and you're good to go. If you ordered it through a local bike shop they would probably assemble it for you.Just dont be like me.>Bike arriving today>Carbon fork so it's time to invest in a torque wrench>Drive to REI and get a park tools wrench>Realize I need some bits for it>Go to Home Depot and get a 5mm and 6mm allen bit for it>Unpack bicycle>Realize the skewers have hex bolts
>>2006464nta but mine has a bunch of bolts that i can only undo with a socket.and my cantilever needs a box and a hex for leverage.
any good bike fitting guides? sizing too
>>2006469use PBH and find out where you stand on the long legs vs long torso side. Also measure your wingspan.Once you do that you can figure out you are in the range, and get a bike that fits somewhat stock. Then make changes when required.
>>2006404>how should I be pedalling ?There's alot of superstition about 'smooth circling pedaling style' and people having delusions about 'using the upstroke, engaging their glutes etc.This was always dubious to begin with and has been debunked scientifically. Even professional athletes simply spin faster and push harder. When minding any sort of cues a trainer might give their power decreases.You shouldn't think about pedalling. Just go go go. You wont improve anything about it by making conscious adjustments but its not entirely impossible to mess so ething up trying to force some idea of pedalling style. Don't think about it.>>2006469bikedynamicsguide.pdfits decent, free and kinda out there
>>2006468yes but that's because your bike is 30 years old
>>2006471>There's alot of superstition about 'smooth circling pedaling style' and people having delusions about 'using the upstroke, engaging their glutes etc.>This was always dubious to begin with and has been debunked scientifically. Even professional athletes simply spin faster and push harder. When minding any sort of cues a trainer might give their power decreases.>You shouldn't think about pedalling. Just go go go. You wont improve anything about it by making conscious adjustments but its not entirely impossible to mess so ething up trying to force some idea of pedalling style. Don't think about it.Tell me you do only compound lifts without telling me.
>Al Mighty>Big Betty>Billy Bonkers>Black Jack>Dirty Dan>Eddy Current>Hans Dampf>Johnny Watts>Jumbo Jim>Little Joe>Magic Mary>Nobby Nic>Racing Ralph>Racing Ray>Rapid Rob>Rocket Ron>Smart Sam>Tacky Chan>Thunder Burt>Tough Tom>Wicked WillWhat did Schwalbe mean by this?
>>2006478They meant alliteration or word/name puns.
>>2006478There’s a few people on the schwalbe marketing team who will put your name on a tire if you have sex with them, most of those tires are just one night stands desu
My bike pedal just failed at the stem. I have never tried fixing such a problem before and am not sure what should be done about it.Is this something I can just fix myself or am I going to need a new part?
>>2006492kekMagic mary was great tbqh>>2006493"at the stem"you mean the axle?Did it snap in two?Does it not spin?pics?
Just got my new bike from the store and assembled it one thing I got worried the hydraulic breaks feel good but I still need to press a bit firmer to get them to fully stop, is there anything I need to do? This is a new bike from the package if I need to bleed then it feels sad
>>2006495Bed in the pads and then we’ll talk
>>2006496>Bed in the padsPlease explain
>>2006494I'm phone posting ATM so I've no clue how to add a pic.The left side pedal arm collapsed at the main stem, so instead of being at the opposite spot to the right side both pedals are in the same position. I knew something was wrong yesterday but thought it was just a bearing in the pedal itself.
>>2006498Just ride the bike as is and see if things change. Brand new pads and rotors needs a little wear on the mating surfaces to perform optimally.
>>2006500Alright I will ride a lot with the bike just worried about the brakes not working when I need them..
>>2006465i do damn you, but i've only had my current bike for a few months and would feel guilty for upgrading already
>>2006498Find a YouTube video about it basically you do several long hard stops without locking the wheels this creates a film of brake material on the rotor
>>2006493>>2006494>>2006499>pics?
>>2006508Sir, that's your crank arm coming off the spindle. Pop the cap off that is attached at the crank arm, then tighten the bolt onto the spindle/square taper. Once it's really tight it should be good to go.
>>2006478Trust Germans to have absolutely zero understanding of marketing or appealing branding. Likely because they invest all their effort into the functionality and invest next to no time into anything else.
>>2006478Well Hans Dampf is about in all them alleys.
>>2006474Yeah mostly all the DL and squat variations, bench and shoulder press for shits n giggles. But currently AC joint so no bench or shoulder.Why ?
>>2006522Just the vibe I was getting. Heard the same response from many people like you before while I make great gains and ride further my way.>t. isolation and cycling while pedalling up guy
>>2006478Is Tacky Chan Chinese?
>>2006470>PBHpubic bone height got it.nta but could you expand a bit about how to use the wingspan measurement w/r/t bike sizing?
>>2006492The names just took on whole new meanings.>tfw riding Jumbo Jims
>>2006478you forgot the best one
>>2006493I have isolated your problem:you are trying to mount your pedal to the stem.this is retarded.attach the pedal to the crank.
>>2006543top kek
>>2006493>stemwould you quit making shit up and google the appropriate terms, please?we're trying to help you and you're confusing us and it's not nice
my fd has been misbehaving whats the 1x equivalent of 50/34
>>2006549wouldn't it be 42? that's halfway between them. play around with an online gear calculator, it'll tell you everything
>>2006547I'm using what I thought was the term, from the last time I asked, that's what I told it was. Pls no bully.
the stem attaches the handlebar to the frame. >>2006552>that's what I told it was.nobody here would have told you it was part of the pedal. you're remembering it wrong. just use google next time to get the parts right
my glutes are not getting any work done and my legs hurtwhat do? seat front-back adjust? the height is already correct I think (heel on the pedal locks the knee). not sure about posture or reach, I slide down in the saddle if I relax my arms. straight bars
I'm afraid of using aluminium and carbon parts. What if they break at the most unexpected moment?
>>2006577well none of us would expect that to happen
>>2006577aluminum doesn't really break, not usually. when it fails it bends and then it *can* crack which then *can* break but it's not a catastrophic failure that's going to throw you off the bike unless you are extremely unlucky. carbon breaks when it fails. it can and does fail catastrophically, but moreso in the early days when it was a new material they didn't know how to work with as well. nowadays the bugs have more or less been worked out and carbon from big brands is built right and undergoes rigorous quality control.don't buy used carbon and you should be good. I ordered a $20 full carbon saddle from a guy off AliExpress, but he's sold thousands of them and had a very high rating and I've put several hundred miles on it and it's been rock solid. so even the small time guys can be reliable if you see they have good numbers. some no name brand with one sale and one 5 star rating? I'd avoid it.
>>2006577are you scared that the front will fall off?
>>2006574>I slide down in the saddle if I relax my armsBring the saddle forward maybe a full centimeter and reduce the angle of attack a little bit and see how that feels. Remember that a saddle is not a seat, it is a balance point and most of the time your weight is mostly suspended by the force of your pedal strokes, not by your hands or butt. You should be able to comfortably switch between elbows in/out and lumbar tensed/relaxed.
>>2006582reduce angle of attack? i think its already pretty much level.i dont think I can reduce pressure from either, feels like its either butt or arms, or I'm standing pedaling.
>>2006585Then add a little bit of negative angle. If your saddle is in the right place you should be able to lightly rest your wrists on the bars without any pressure or tension anywhere.
I seen people advocate that I should change gear while pedaling and some say don't. If I do it while I pedal and go up hill my bike makes crunchy noise but if I don't it makes no noise but won't change as fast which is the right way?
>>2006600Shifting a drivetrain under load reduces performance and increases wear. When you git gud you'll be able to shift between pedalstrokes
>>2006600Changing gear under load risks additional wear on your chain, a shift shouldn’t take more than a single soft-pedaling rotation to complete but you certainly can shift under load if it’s needed (shifting to a climbing gear under load generally works better, and is also the only time you should ever need to shift under load)
>>2006601>>2006602Thank you I will avoid the crunchy sound pedal
>>2006600I mean, the shift doesn't complete until you pedal anyway. surely you've noticed that if you shift while coasting, the chain doesn't move until you resume pedaling?anyway, yeah, you soft-pedal during the shift and when you hear the chain clunk onto the chosen gear, then you can lay down power again. on an uphill you kind of have to anticipate and spin high revolutions to get you through the shift, then shift and begin the soft pedal and the higher cadence should get you through the shift until you can mash it again.
>>2006599negative as in pointing upwards, I'm assuming?i ordered a new saddle, current one has no channel, hopefully it will help a bit
how long does it take you to install new tires & tubes? bike is my main mode of transport to work atm and my tires are worn out & I keep getting rear flats. bike shop opens tomorrow morn
>>2006618Minutes at most. Sometimes you'll get a new tire that is a really tight fit and will take longer, but a shop will likely use a bead jack and it shouldn't take them more than like thirty seconds.
>>2006618first time? an hour. second time 15 minutes. third, 5.if having to patch a tube then +5 minutes cause you have to wait for the glue.also add or remove a minute or two depending on your pump.
my saddles fucked and I ordered this for my commuter. did I fuck up or is it alright for wideish hips and hour rides?
>>2006579This is such garbage. Carbon fiber is just better fiberglass and there are glass boats and glass aircraft that were manufactured literally eighty years ago still in use. You can hit a carbon frame with a fucking sledgehammer and go ride it for years after the event and it's not going to fail unless there are massive manufacturing defects.
>>2006624and yet you are required to use a torque wrench on it because unlike steel and aluminum, if you tighten a bolt into carbon to the wrong torque, it snaps like a fucking potato chip. interesting!
>>2006627Bolts and screws for metal are designed to fail in a way that will only fuck up the fastener and not the object being fastened, which is presumably far more expensiveThey could do the same for crabbon, by developing a whole new set of standards and products, but crabbon is a niche product already, so it's easier just to use the same kind of fastener, and tell everyone to just use a special torque wrench. And to normies, that makes it seem like crabbon is special and scary, because the other design standards that go into not fucking up everything else, are invisible and therefore do not exist
are hydraulic brake hose cutters worth the price if you're only doing them once? shimano brake caliper manual shows freehanding it with a fresh razor blade. something like the HBT-1 is $90.
