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File: caad3.png (446 KB, 811x440)
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**CALLING ALL RACISTS**

I plan to build myself a new road bike and the thing I'm stuck on is what frame.

New frame? The all have that increadibly gay sloping top tube.
Old steel frame? That's where I'm leaving from because I'm not 100% happy.
Triathlon frame? The shape is correct but the rest is impractical for what I need.

I've arrived at the conclusion that what I want is an early aluminum frame before the started bogging the frames for gay shit like 'ergonomics' and 'flex'. From what I've gathered Cannondale is one of the best when it comes to aluminum frames and the Caad2, Caad2.8 and Caad3 really fit the bill. But I want to expand my horizons and get some recommendations and inspo for what else is out there.
>>
If you're just building something for the sake of building something, which appears to be the case here, it literally doesn't matter, if the old cdales get your peepee hard then do that. You don't even seem to have an understanding, or a desire to understand, why different kinds of bikes have different geometries.

But you're not going to build anything, we get these larps a few times a month, some guy who thinks building a bike is going to save him money, not knowing what he wants or why, thinking that the true objective "best bike" is out there and there must be a one cool trick Big Bicycle doesn't want anyone to know. You try to sound hard by being anti-things, desperately hoping no one will notice you're not pro-anything. But the thing is, it's not like you can just say wrong things and autists will correct you, like on /g/ or /ck/, because there actually isn't a "best frame". The cannondale I assume got put in your head because of durianrider, he's been pushing these lately. That guy is a troll and you should take everything he says with a huge grain of salt.
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>>2009629
Commuting is NOT a race
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>>2009629
yes old seel frame
ali is fiiiine desu
old steel is so pretty thouugh
>>
With a made in USA CAAD frame your going to be limit with your clearance, max 28mm in the rear, but probably more like 25mm. They are stiff as fuck too, so you'll be missing those extra mm if the road is rough. Also the canny frames with the plastic top tube guides suck. They get brittle and snap, avoid IMHO.

You should consider a steel frame meant for 27" wheels. You can slap 35mm 700 on some of those. Or 28mm with fenders. IMHO.

But really I think a horizontal TT is aesthetically beautiful but stupid. You'll need to jack up the stem really high or ride in a hunched position. I don't like
>>
>>2009629
I have a CAAD5 and it feels like a perfect extension of my own body.
>>
>>2009629
>I've arrived at the conclusion that what I want is an early aluminum frame before the started bogging the frames for gay shit like 'ergonomics' and 'flex'.

kek
okay if you want the stiffest aluminum frame you can get look for one with the largest diameter tubing, in the smallest size you can reasonably fit.
Bonus points for 23mm or smaller tires, and deep aluminum section wheels.
>>
>>2009629
3 issues

A: vintage bonded carbon or aluminium forks are now mostly at the age to be retired, not re-specced with a nice build. It's probably not viable to replace either. I'd say a frameset is practically worthless if it doesn't come with a nice fork and most of them will not. A replacement fork is usually more than the entire price of a nice used frameset and devalues the frame.

B: Same thing with the cannondales with the funky shotback dropouts. Really closely scrutinize on condition and kinda sketchy at this point.

C: Third thing is that most of those bikes will be longer than they are tall, designed for quite an aggressive position, and this doesn't suit most casual riders and adapting to it with a meme stem ruins the aesthetics.

They're mostly very nice bikes, actually the last boomer i spoke to about his CAAD said he preferred it to the Klein he also bought new back in the day because it rode better.
But you're shooting for a narrow niche of either a very good example, or a very cheap beater.
>>
>>2009629

Just get a used caad12 frame with matching fork.
>>
>>2009649
Here's the most insanely stiff bike I've ever ridden. 2005 giant ocr touring. Early aluminum disc monster. As heavy as steel

https://nos531.wordpress.com/2018/01/28/giant-ocr-touring-2004-overview/
>>
>>2009662
>touring
>weighs more then his mid level 90's mtb
>interruptor levers, adjustable quill stem on a mechanical disk brake frame, 3 spare spokes,canti bosses
wow.
>>
>>2009629
Reading this thread, you sound like an idiot and maybe too young to be wasting your time building bikes, especially when you apparently have no pressing need for one. Just buy some bike to get around on and forget about the rest. Seriously you sound like the bicycle version of PC gamer kids who want to build some flashy PC, then spend shitloads of money on it and have nothing but problems putting it together because you're a dumb kid and have no idea what you're even doing, and just fuck it all up.
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>>2009789
You sound old and weak with zero enjoyment in life. I will do the opposite of what you say in the hopes that I don't turn into a miserable misfit like you. Please share your thoughts more so that know what not to do
>>
>>2009875
you could own him by actually doing it and posting pics detailing it in this thread.
Until that happens...
>>
>>2009629
Whats your budget and intended use?
I would say get a simple canyon endurace with the 105 groupset and call it a day. Put some 30mm tires on it and its probably gonna feel like the best bike you ever owned if you're coming from shitty old steel frames. Skip aluminium, there are a lot of really good, reliable carbon frames around right now that there really isnt a point to get a aluminuim frame in this day and age.

If youre building something for the sake of building something just remember that for the cost of a new beginner carbon road bike you'll NEVER create something similar in performance.
>>
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>>2009875
Based fuck the grouches life is too short not to fuck around
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>>2009882
>>2009877
I second this. If it's just for fucking around, go and build your bike. It's fun to build stuff and try new things. You may want to start with something a bit more put together and upgrade stuff on the go.
I personally would only do that with vintage steel but it's quite easy to find old aluminum or carbon bikes which were just stored in a garage their whole life.
>>
>>2009789
what's wrong with the guy trying to build a bike

personally I would just buy one used, and sure as hell not some gay ass road bike. that's for fat old guys in spandex and kids that are too much of a pussy to ride mountain bikes, much less downhill. either way you look like a faggot in spandex.

if you are going to use it for commuting, just get an ebike. they are really inexpensive now.
>>
>>2009645
The clearance isn't an issue. I have 2 bikes rn both of which I'm like 90% happy with. A vintage steel road bike and a modern aluminium CX bike. I ride mostly on roads and I enjoy the stiff and hard ride of the road bike but I want the more modern components. Especially the rear spacing is a driver for me wanting to change. I do however like the aethetics older roads bikes have and something about these late 90s frames does it for me. I'm not looking to buy an old frame for the sake of it being old but I have not found any new production frames that are compareable. If there are any out here which aren't custom built frame lmk senpai.

>>2009653
You need to understand that I want the ride feel. Regarding the fork, I don't want threaded forks since I want modern components so I will most likely be swapping that out. I am fully aware of this not being 'cost effective' in terms of getting something that will ride and I really don't care about 'devalueating' a frame.

>>2009789
Idk man you sound bitter. You have more fun riding something that fits your preferences and enjoy looking at.
>>
>>2009957
"cold setting" aka bending is fine from 1 size to another generally speaking. So 126- 130, 130-135, etc. For steel of course. Can always run threaded to threadless converter if your desired frame/fork combo is threaded.

Also, some bikes in the late 80's/early 90's came with 128mm drop outs, and those can easily fit 130mm rears, or 126mm rears.
>>
>>2009957
If you don't care about clearance than for sure get a 2010-2019 made in USA Cannondale. Specialized also had some aluminum frames but they're definitely not as cool as a Cannondale. They're just such fucking nice stiff bikes and sound like exactly what you want.

I had a 2016 caad8 with campy, was dreamy. Miss it all the time
>>
>>2009966
I just think they look good.
>>
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>>2009966
Also consider:
>>
>>2009629
OP

What you need is a Trek OCLV. Carbon with horizontal TT.
>>
Or how about a vintage lite speed frame?

Titanium so it's light. Horizontal TT. And it's going to hold value better than a dented cannondale
>>
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>>2009629
this whole discussion is pretty stupid because it depends entirely on what you can find in your local market.
>>
>>2010006
These look sexy my only concern is that it I'm buy 30 year old carbon and the general consensus on that is that it's risky if I'm not mistaken.

>>2010007
I checked online and they seem to be pretty rare where I live and those that are listed have asking prices reflecting that. I could have one imported cheaper from the US than what people here are asking but I want to be able to look at what I'm getting before I buy especially since it's used.
>>
>>2009629
>Old steel frame? That's where I'm leaving from because I'm not 100% happy.
Why are you unhappy with steel? Specifically, which framesets made you unhappy with it? What tubing were they made with? The early/mid 90s saw some fairly stiff steel frames with 130 mm between the rear dropouts before aluminum and carbon fully took over.
>>
>>2009966
They were still made in usa up till 2019?
whoa. based Cannondale.
>>
>>2010076
No, I dont think so. Probably taiwan
>>
>>2010073
some gaspipe shitter no doubt



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