Going to my local bike co-op tomorrow to try and find a commuter. I haven't riden a bike since I was a kid. Should I look for steel or aluminum if my price range is $200ish? There's bound to be a lot of junk
>>2010305200$?You really cant save up a bit more?And you really want to commute on it?Are you perhaps a hobo that stole a wallet?Just work for a month and buy a nice aluminium gravel bike with 105.Dont get sora or other shit because they suck balls.Go tubless for extra puncture protection. but always carry a spare tube just in case. Fit some nice stainless steel racks (cheap steel ones rust after literally 1 ride in the rain) and you'll have your perfect commuter.
>>2010305>Should I look for steel or aluminum if my price range is $200ish?Whoa there big spender, with a budget like that you should be looking at Reynolds 953, Toray M55J, 6AL4V Ti. Don't settle for any old junk!
>>2010305Do not buy anything without also buying the tools to at least measure, clean and, replace a chain+chainring, tension spokes, and replace tires.Also, protip: get a chain waxing regime down: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pbz3NGbwyucOnce again, do not buy a bike until you cost those things in, or you will ride it for a few weeks/months before dumping it because "it just doesn't shift right" "it feels gritty" "the bike shop wants more money than I paid for it".
>>2010312>>2010315Both of you haven't considered that OP lives in a place where the bike co-op needs to armor their building.
You're buying on the low end of things, steel and aluminum are fine materials. Buy what they have that fits you well, fit is the most important thing. After you get a few months of riding in, you'll get a better idea of what you actually want.
>>2010305>steel or aluminum if my price range is $200ishthat's not really important.you should first look for a bike size that fits you. then either get a rigid MTB that either has , or budget to get, slick tires.or a road bike that has frame clearance for 32mm tires or more (1ΒΌ inches wide), ideally already with those tires or else budget for them. the co-op guys should be able to help you with all this, but if not, those are your primary criteria.
>>2010321>>2010324>>2010330Yeah I have lots of money. Just don't wanna get niqqa'd
Should I go with a Single Speed bike? I don't need to ride very far daily only like 1mi around campus
>>2010383yes, but get one that coasts.
>>2010384rear brakes?
>>2010386I prefer both since you are running single speed, not fixed.Even when fixed you may want front and rear brakes when going down a steep hill.
>>2010305aluminum or steel doesn't matter if it's a commuter, the small difference that makes doesn't mean much outside of racing. What matters most is finding a bike that fits, important thing to note about fit however. First, all bikes can have their fit adjusted some way. Second, fit changes over time, both from stretchability as well as finding more comfortable adjustments. Last, fit is a never ending game and there's a balance to be found between output, efficiency, and comfort, increasing one metric usually affects another.
>>2010305You want shit that FITS. No compromise there at all. It should match your riding position as well. Eg, no upright commuter if you want to tark it up.Avoid hiten steel, otherwise, material doesn't matter.If your'e a fatass go with a MTB or lots of spokes on the wheels.You're probably looking at shitheap hybrids, old rigid/hardail mtbs, maybe some old steel 10 speeds.>>2010383No, but if that's the best bike they have in your range, you might go for it anywayu. Don't go fixed gear.>>2010386Of course.
>>2010405nothing wrong with hiten steel if the bike is made right just that most hiten bikes made nowadays are shit bikes made poorly
>>2010412The last good hiten steel bikes were made in the 70's. Any hiten steel bikes in that bicycle equivalent of a trap house is going to be an overpriced BSO.
>>2010414>The last good hiten steel bikes were made in the 70'sThat's not true. There are plenty of reasonably well made hiten bikes like linus and state, hell, in the 90s and 00s the big mfg often had hiten entry level models which were alright. cheap and expensive bike parts in the 70s were absolute garbage compared to 80s/90s and now.
>>2010312>$200?>just spend $2000fuck off dipshit lmao
>>2010305>barred windowsSounds like some minorities didn't make the "all people" list.
>>2010417fuck off cunt
>>2010305I'd only go for an alloy frame if the entire bike weighs 22 lbs or less otherwise its not worth the buzzy ride quality and galvanically corroded seat post.for steel bikes chrome moly double butted 0.9 0,7 0,9 main frame triangle is farely normal for a light-ish 28 lb bikemost MTB or touring bikes are a bit thicker than this, desu 33 to 37 lbs is getting a bit porky and 48 lbs is just unreasonable if its not a cargo bike>>2010383single speed requires more patience and foresight when riding, 70 gear inches is ok for 18 mph, but not so good for taking off from intersections.3 speed IGH or 8 speed derailleur are a little bit more versatile while not being too obscenely fragile>>2010384the coasting / free-wheel helps alot, way less problems with chain tension, so cheaper fork ends are fine.>>2010386ye, some old single speed bikes have a kick back brake but this is hard to control when going down hill or over bumps, also does not work when the chain falls off lollots of cheap single speed bikes have single pivot side pull callipers, their performance is a bit variable (proper adjustment and soft brake pads help a bit)vee brakes or medium profile cantilevers have stronger performance but need more frequent adjustment due to brake pad type and clearanceas for the bike fit that's a nightmare, due to bottom bracket hight and top tube slopequick hack is to stand next to the bike inline with the chain ringwrist hight for top tube / stand overpretty much elbow hight is as high as the seat should go so that you can easily use the pedals to support your weight while getting onto the saddlewith the seat lower than mid fore arm you might have to start pushing the pedals closer to the middle of your foot>reach and stack being farely random per bikethis is the main problem, its why there are so many types of handle bar
>>2010305>I haven't riden a bike since I was a kidhttps://retrospec.com/collections/single-speed-fixie-bikes/products/harper-coasterHere you go. $220. Low maintenance. If you airless tanus tires for $80 a pair you NEVER have to pump tires again or ever get a flat. Truly a bike for the person that hasn't ridden a bike since they were kids. https://tannusamerica.com/pages/airless-70032Later on if you stick to it you will know what YOU need and what YOU want. Your second bike will be perfect for YOU. But you probably won't stick to it so don't stress. You're welcome btw
>>2010427>galvanically corroded seat post.>alloy frameother way around m8 galvanic corrosion occurs with dissimilar metals. Seeing as practically all nice seatposts are aluminium, it's a steel frame problem. It's also not a real problem, you just have to grease your seatpost occasionally. >>2010437>Truly a bike for the person that hasn't ridden a bike since they were kids.something that rides like ABSOLUTE shit, yeah , great, make him hate riding
>>2010312Sora is fine Current gen Claris is also fine
>>2010437>clown bike with no brakes and solid tires
>>2010444>no brakes You don't shit about bikes
>>2010441>something that rides like ABSOLUTE shit, yeah , great, make him hate ridingYou think he's going to change a tire? Keep the right psi? Adjust his brakes? Adjust his derailleur? His seat post? You think he's going to buy tap dancing shoes to attach to his clip less pedals? You think he's going to upload his rides to his Strava? Some nice bibs helmet like his favorite tour de France rider?He's doing none of that. He's never going to his local bike shop an pay $120 for maintenance and to tune up his bike. He's going to buy a bike get a flat never ride again while his bike sits outside in the rain and direct sunlight. That's it. He wants to spend $200 max. That's less than a good set of tires. Think about that. You are not talking to a bike person. This guy doesn't even know how gears work and he doesn't care. it's not a bike for you. Non bike people don't care if a bike is 10% less efficient. All they care about is that it works when they get on it. They will not turn a screw to adjust anything. Oh and he's never going to get a professional bike fit. This guy doesn't care. Get that through your thick skull. He's not you and he doesn't want to be like you. He's not a bike person, he's a normal person
>>2010452he is not going to buy airless tires either
>>2010451Shill your hi-ten bozo bike elsewhere
