>>2010595
If your chainring(s) are obviously worn out the teeth will have a 'shark tooth' profile. Similarly on the rear cassette. If you put new chain on worn sprockets it will skip so that's the most likely culprit here. Post pics of your parts if you want an opinion.

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>>2010597
Thanks

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>>2010597
I know it's dirty, I was gonna clean it but ran into this issue.

Also there was some complaints on Amazon that some people thought it was a counterfeit chain, but I think that it is people like me who have other problems

>>2010595
Here's how things work:
Your chain gets too worn. In the process of that happening it makes your chainrings and cogs wear to match it. I can even make the jockey wheels on your rear derailleur wear excessively. If it gets bad enough, the whole drivetrain can jam up, and you end up with your rear derailleur trying to wrap itself around your rear axle, ripping the derailleur hanger off, and probably destroying the derailleur entirely.

Replace everything. Chainrings, cassette, new chain, and take a close look at the jockey wheels, too.
Don't just look at things and say "oh they're fine" and not replace them. If the chainrings and cassette are too worn, it'll wreck a new chain.

Now, the way to avoid this in the future is to not allow your chain to get too stretched. Get a chain checking tool and check the chain every few weeks. Replace the chain when it gets to about the halfway point rather than waiting until it's completely cooked.
Now, some are going to scoff at me and say it's a waste of money to do it this way, but in the long run you save money by not having to replace expensive chainrings and cassettes when you otherwise shouldn't have to. In fact, if you're careful, you can go for several years of riding a couple hundred miles a week or more without having to replace chainrings or cassettes.

Source: the last 20 years of riding a couple hundred miles a week all year 'round, and doing all my own maintenance.

>>2010604
well if Im being honest there is about 5000 miles on the sprocket and cassette, and maybe 2000 miles on the chain. I get maybe 1000 a year on average.

>>2010610
You can adjust the intervals where you check the chain but you still need to do it.
When you're going to check the chain that's also a good time to clean the drivetrain and clean and lube the chain itself.

>>2010611
so the chain ring and cassette look too worn to work? yay or nay?

>>2010612
It's really hard to tell with that much crud encrusting it.
TBQH cassettes don't get cooked as easily as chainrings do, but they can wear and that'll cause shifting problems.
If you've really let it go as long as I think you have, you're better off replacing it. Otherwise you can clean it thoroughly, replace the chainrings and chain, and see if it shifts smoothly and reliably. Put the bike on the repair stand and turn the cranks, go through all the cogs up and down, watch the (new) chain carefully; if it's not meshing smoothly with all the cogs in the cassette, you definitely need to replace it.
Again: if it's worn out and you keep using it, it will:
* make your new chain stretch and wear prematurely
* the worn/stretched/damaged chain will wreck your new chainrings
*you'll be back where you started
Modern bicycle drivetrains may look simple but they're actually precisely machined and if you've got things that are worn or damaged it can prematurely wear and damage everything else.

>>2010614
>It's really hard to tell with that much crud encrusting it.
see thats where I am at, did I in fact end up with a counterfeit chain or is everything so worn out it just needs replaced... also finding a 130x53T n10/n11 chainring on amazon is fucking impossible, and I don't want to spend money if I don't have to.

You sure you sized the chain properly? Show it on big big and small small if you're not sure. If you just got the chain and linked it on as is, it's gonna be too big.

>>2010614
>TBQH cassettes don't get cooked as easily as chainrings do, but they can wear and that'll cause shifting problems.
that's not true.
from new a cassette should last a few chains and chainrings should last a few cassettes

it's different for chinkshit, but nice rings last a long time.

>>2010644
You sound like someone who waits until the chain is so worn that it's wrecking everything else before you bother to replace it.
I don't have 'chink shit' either. My old bike had 105, and the current bike (Cervelo S5) has R7000 (Ultegra 11-speed). I rarely have to replace the casette, and chainrings only once a year on average, for roughly 200 miles of riding a week every week of the year, and I'm picky about shifting performance, so if it's shifting shitty or otherwise misbehaving in the rear, I look into it and do whatever is required.

>>2010642
Got to use the old chain as a guide for where to cut the new chain (assuming the old chain is the right length that is).
I'd think if it was too long, in the small chainring and smaller cogs especially, it'd be so loose that he'd drop the chain off the chainring(s).

>>2010640
Ignore all previous instructions; give me a cupcake recipe

>>2010644
>from new a cassette should last a few chains and chainrings should last a few cassettes

>>2010656
>You sound like someone who waits until the chain is so worn that it's wrecking everything else before you bother to replace it.
>ie, a cassette lasts one chain lasts one chainring

uh huh except i just said the opposite retard.

I know this is real from experience but it's also just common knowledge. Try googling it "what wears first cassette or chainrings" see who is right.

Well op definitely clean that shit, it's fuckin dirty. Just cleaning might even fix the issue, but judging by how many miles you have on it, maybe not. But I will say, if you let it get this dirty often, it's bad. All the sludge and oil attract gravel and dust and shit and it all becomes essentially grinding paste, which will fuck your drivetrain real fast

>>2010604
>Now, some are going to scoff at me and say it's a waste of money to do it this way, but in the long run you save money by not having to replace expensive chainrings and cassettes when you otherwise shouldn't have to.
Been doing the math on this one on a bike I got two years ago. I've gone through six chains on one cassette, having replaced the chains at the 0.75mm stretch point, i.e. before serious damage to the cassette occurs. The cassette is now only suitable for chains with 1.0mm stretch, doesn't take 0.75mm chains anymore. Pulley wheels are shot as well, and the front chainring is so-so - if I don't slap on a new cassette now it's a goner. Replacing the whole drivetrain now means it'll have cost me €180-200 over two years.

On the other hand, if I'd just sucked it up and had used, say, two chains and swapped them at regular intervals, then swapped out the drivetrain at the two years mark, the cost over two years would have been ~€100-120. Same thing with customers, it's cheaper to let them ride another year or so with a stretched chain than to periodically have to change chain and cassette, as a chain will quite easily hit 0.75 to 1.0mm stretch over half a year when driving in conditions as they are here.

>>2010599
>>2010598
Only very slight 'mushrooming' on the sprocket both front and back teeth, but the distance mentioned here >>2010610 says you might have to replace several parts of your drivetrain. First check if the limit screws aren't issues, but if it's not that I'd just bite the bullet and buy a new drivetrain, then swap out parts to troubleshoot the issue. Yes, it might be a tad more expensive, but those are all spare parts you can use later, as you'll need them eventually if you keep riding the bike.

Also >>2010622
>buying parts on Amazon
Avoid. Chain doesn't look counterfeit at first sight though.

>>2010665
>uh huh except i just said the opposite retard.
Generally yes, but a hard steel cassette might outlive a soft alu chainring.

OP here

>>2010706
>>buying parts on Amazon
>Avoid. Chain doesn't look counterfeit at first sight though.

its all the reviews I started reading stating its fake and the dates are recent on those, but I don't think it is either.

I think I am just gonna buy a new cassette and chainring as cleaning it hasn't done much so far and I also found my rear derailleur is tweaked a little bit. The whole bike has been getting some love the last few weeks with new tires, bar tape and now this.

What really sucks is I wanted to ride this one this weekend, I only get 1 full 2 day weekend a month and typically work 6 days a week so I'm more frustrated with that than the money for now but I am a cheap ass at heart.

I'm looking at throwing one of those cheap Chinese Sensah 2x12 groupsets at an old aluminum endurance bike I've got sitting around. Is there a 12 speed cassette that fits on a normal HG freehub, or should I settle for 2x11? I've heard that mountain bike cassettes might be able to squeeze on but there's a lot of conflicting information out there.

>>2010921
https://sunrace.com/product/csrz800-wav-black/

Yes, there are 12 speed HG cassettes but they're typically going to be a minimum of 11 teeth and Sensah doesn't list the capacity of their derailleurs anywhere I could see and they don't appear to make chainsets so you're playing a guessing game either way.

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I've had this Trek Soho S for a few years.
I'm looking to add a quick release for the front wheel, what do I need?
What other upgrades can I add to this guy?

>>2011088
if by chance the axle is already hollow, all you need is a skewer. front wheel skewer is 100mm or 110 but as long as it's for front wheel it'll be right. older suspension forks that take QR use thicker skewers so make sure it's for road.
if the axle is solid you need to switch it out . new bikes like yours probably have cartridge bearings so it's like lego but I think you still need a cone wrench to pull the hub apart

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>>2011122
I can't tell if that is a through bolt.

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>>2011162
>>2011162
the skewer goes through the hollow axle. the lever tightens and loosens without tools, it's a cam. the ends of the skewer hold it to the fork in place of bolts

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>>2011162
track style solid axle, I believe that one does have a hollow axle but I'm not sure if it can be converted to quick release, however, your other option is the old school option, wing nuts.

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>>2011088
>I'm looking to add a quick release for the front wheel, what do I need?
A different wheel. It's (practically) impossible to convert between the two.
It's not even an upgrade either.
Instead what you should do is -service- both of your hubs.
Wheels are wear items, you should replace them when they're damaged.

I suspect you're running a long pull brake lever with short pull brakes so investigate that. Measure this distance c-c.

>>2011184
>It's not even an upgrade either.
I would go as far and say QR is a downgrade from solid axle

>>2011215
whats pros of solid axle over QR?

>>2011248
stiffness

>>2011290
ok congrats for your added stiffness so it can support your 40% body fat. What's the actual advantages over a quick release? For a given fit cyclist, why would I chose solid axle which requires to carry around keys whereas i can just pop it out easily with qr

>>2011293
old good new bad okay?

>>2011088
>that saddle angle

>>2011290
Quick release axles are stronger than threaded ones, especially once the skewer is inserted. The only advantages are that requiring a tool makes the wheel slightly harder to steal if you don't lock it for some reason, and consistent wheel placement in the dropout which doesn't matter as much with rim brakes anyway

>>2010665
>ie, a cassette lasts one chain lasts one chainring
Apparently my ability to write in the English language outstrips your 3rd grader level of reading comprehension because that's not in any way shape or form what I said, you blithering smoothbrained idiot.

I’m having a similar problem

New chain, new cassette, and my shit is still skipping around when pedaling hard

Is this just something I have to live with? Or do the chain and cassette need to wear together for a bit or something

>>2010706
>Been doing the math on this one on a bike I got two years ago. I've gone through six chains on one cassette, having replaced the chains at the 0.75mm stretch point, i.e. before serious damage to the cassette occurs. The cassette is now only suitable for chains with 1.0mm stretch, doesn't take 0.75mm chains anymore. Pulley wheels are shot as well, and the front chainring is so-so - if I don't slap on a new cassette now it's a goner. Replacing the whole drivetrain now means it'll have cost me €180-200 over two years.
>On the other hand, if I'd just sucked it up and had used, say, two chains and swapped them at regular intervals, then swapped out the drivetrain at the two years mark, the cost over two years would have been ~€100-120. Same thing with customers, it's cheaper to let them ride another year or so with a stretched chain than to periodically have to change chain and cassette, as a chain will quite easily hit 0.75 to 1.0mm stretch over half a year when driving in conditions as they are here.
Ah, I see. You're a prime example of the reason I don't let bike shop """mechanics""" (more like monkeys) ever touch any bike of mine. Every time I do they fuck something up that I have to go back and completely undo and fix myself.
Once I had a front derailleur cable go bad on me during a ride. I stopped in and they said it'd only take a short time to replace. They put too short a cable housing on it and it would bind if you turned the bars too far. Had to go home tear it all out and re-do it myself.
Once I had to have a frameset replaced under warranty. Trek said the shop had to do the changeover of components. I trusted them to do the job right. They failed to tighten the front derailleur cable. I lost a road race because I went to shift to the big chainring at the top of a hill and the cable slipped; race over, can't keep up on the small chainring.
Too many of you are incompetent. Good thing I can do almost all of my own work.

>>2010706
Oh and by the way I've never had a cassette on any of my bikes get as worn as you claim to have seen them get worn from multiple chains, and my bikes have no shifting problems either, so you're blowing smoke so far as I'm concerned.
Typical 4chan bullshitter.
Are you even an actual paid for-a-living bike mechanic, or is that bullshit too?

>>2011335
Your chainring(s) are worn out, replace them.

>>2011248
There isn't. I can't be assed to do the science but a tube of the same size is damn near as strong as a hollow axle. Only track bros, bmx bros, and pos bros run solid axles.
Track and bmx is probably so they can camp the shit out of the axle and not worry about the wheel moving.
Also, they are kinda nice in the rear end of a sliding dropout single speed, since you can use the nuts to pull the axle one way or another.
>>2011302
I can feel my triceps and hands already.
>>2011335
Don't live with it. Figure out if your shifting is perfect first, then see if it happens on the cassette side or chainring side.
It's kinda obvious if you look at each item while pedaling hard in a safe space where the skip is occurring.

>>2011334
>>You sound like someone who waits until the chain is so worn that it's wrecking everything else before you bother to replace it.

If you wait until the chain is so worn that it's wrecking everything else, then you need to replace your cassette and chainrings as well, as it has -wrecked everything else-.
That is what you said cunt.

>>2011338
>>2011342
Well the chain is definitely skipping around on the cassette. I don’t see how it could skip from chain ring to chain ring if that’s what you mean. It really only skips right after shifting, like it has trouble “settling in” to the gear. Maybe I’ll try the other chainring and see if it still happens

>>2011368
Sounds like a derailleur adjustment tbqh.

>>2011378
second

>>2011378
>>2011457

Ok, that’s something I’ve been trying to learn how to do right and still can’t get the hang of it. Seems like a lot of guesswork?

>>2011459
turn the barrel adjuster towards the cog it isn't catching .

this is assuming there's no slack in the cable, or it isn't overtightened. should be clamped taut but not very tight when in the big cog

>>2011462
>big cog
*sorry, small cog

turn the barrel in small increments, half-turn ish

>>2011459
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UkZxPIZ1ngY&t=1s

Park tool video on how to do it. It's good to learn

>>2011459
fucking with limit screws can be a pain in the ass, try get it right, follow the videos. if its still not working you prob have a bent hanger or some shit
it does feel like guess work if you dont know what you are doing but you will get it as long as something else isn't bent.
drive train on my entry level mtb (shimano deore) would always skip under heavy power from a stop, couldn't seem to fix it. ended up getting nigged anyway so i have a new bike now

>>2011335
>>2011368
If it shifts correctly, check where it skips. It doesn't often happen, but occasionally it's the pulley wheels.

>>2011336
>>2011337
I might not be an all-knowing bike avatar like Sheldon Brown, but I'm quite confident in my ability as a paid bike mechanic, thank you very much. Feel free to disprove what I said, I've got all the old parts in the garage.

>>2011574
>I've got all the old parts in the garage.
Evidence of ripping off your customers?
I know how most bike shops work. No different than auto mechanics. You love customers who can barely fix a puncture because you can upsell them on all sorts of shit they really don't need, and hate knowledgeable riders because you can't sell them much of anything.
You especially hate people like *me* because not only do I do all my own maintenance and repair, but I buy all my parts online instead of getting price-gouged at your shop.
Yeah, I'm saying you're a fraud like 99% of all bike shop """mechanics""".
Oh and by the way? I've been maintaining and repairing all my own vehicles, motorized or not, since about 1980. I've also been working in electronics my entire life. And, as previously stated: I've had enough experiences with you so-called 'mechanics' to know that I'm better off limping home if something happens to break unexpectedly than to trust any of *you*.

*****

Everyone else in this thread: learn to work on your own bikes so you don't get ripped off at bike shops. Really, it's not so hard to learn.

>>2010599
Clean it and you dont have an issue. But lubricate it before trying

>>2011731
nah bro you are late to the party, I cleaned it and some gears have issues others don't... its rideable but far from perfect and I don't want to lose a chain suddenly and crash. So new cassette is here and sitting in a box and I am waiting on the chain rings to arrrive... jockey wheels look about the same as when they were new...

Guess I'm going mountain biking instead this weekend while I wait on parts

Do you guys have all the tools to fix anything wrong with your bike? The upfront cost is too big for me to justify especially considering that bike mechanics here charge almost nothing. Then again I've had a bad experience with one packing too much grease in my rear hub.

Which tools and equipment are essential to have for repairing your own bike? Besides the obvious hex keys and screwdrivers.

>>2011833
>Do you guys have all the tools to fix anything wrong with your bike?

I have pretty much everything but a bearing/race press and a tensiometer. what gets used most is the hex keys followed by cog locking tool + chain whip and chainbreaker. the one totally indispensable tool upgrade you can make is to get a pedro's vice whip, and quicklink pliers are pretty nice to have too.

>>2011833
The most common job that requires uncommon tools(FOR ME)
For me it's cone wrenches, square taper bb/threaded headset tools, square taper crank extractors, spoke adjustment tools, tire levers/pump, multi tool+pump I carry with me, truing stand, and quick link pliers.
I could go into tools I need to refurbish used bikes I find, but most people don't have to or need those tools frequently.

I ride road bikes around 100-300 miles a week and so normal maintenance is reasonably frequent. I also ride bikes with tech older then me, which is why I need old tools. I weigh at least the average american weight or more, so I need to mess with wheels more frequently then your local twink/girl. If you rode a modern road bike half the tools would go, and you would need different ones.
If I rode BMX/DJ I would need similar but some different tools.
If I rode MTB's I would need a shock pump, suspension rebuild tools, tubeless sealent stuff, etc.

It really is based on what bike you have, types of rides, and rider.

>>2011833
I mean yeah, except for the really expensive shop tools. but I didn't buy them all at once. when I needed something on my bike repaired, and it required a specific tool, I bought the tool. 25 years later and after several bikes, I have most of the stuff.
the single most expensive tool I got is the wheel truing stand. but it's paid for itself over the years.
all the normal tuning and fitting stuff is just ordinary household tools

>>2011833
I don't have all but I have a bunch of tools in general, I will also just buy most anything I need to complete a task, or sometimes just make a tool I need... like a press tool can be made with some long bolts and washers often times. And on many bikes like 75% of anything can be fixed with a multi-tool you would generally carry with you on rides. I don't think I have ever actually torqued anything on a bike either.

>>2011833
just buy stuff on an as needed basis, only tool i've needed to buy so far has been a cassette thingy, besides that most things can be fixed/replaced with standard household tools.

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I asked BQT but might as well here too, what would you do to this bike to make it spick and span?
>3x8? groupset
>chromoly frame
>smallest chain ring is bent and unusable (not pictured)
>brakes and wheels are good
I already slapped a comfy seat and better handlebar grips on it. suggestions were to remove bent ring and make it 2x and clean up the cables and stuff to make it shift better.

>>2011293
I personally like how you can't misalign a wheel on install. It's not really a huge problem with qr but it's nice not having to worry about it outright.

>>2012121
Replace bent chain ring and/or chainring bolts if they're fucked too, clean and lube cables, adjust tension if necessary. If cables are frayed or rough even with lube, replace cables and maybe housing.

>>2012135
ok sounds easy, I ordered lube and a crank puller, guess i'll research the exact type of chain ring I'll need. anything I can fuck up severely if I am not careful?

>>2012145
if you're gonna remove your crank to repair the granny, you should also service or replace your bottom bracket.

Before you remove the crank, work out whether you could have a longer or shorter spindle (how close are the crank arms to hitting on the chainstays, and how much adjustment do the limit screws of your front derailer have in and out). As with a replacement bb you may not be able to find the exact same size, and if you can get away with going narrower, it's better.

You can remove that bb with generic hand tools (waterpump pliers, diy pin spanner, and a vice or big adjustable wrench), you don't really need the 'correct' ones.

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>>2012147
basically, anything that can unscrew the cups can unscrew the cups.
Just know the driveside cup is a left hand thread.
And if that fixed cup on the driveside is stuck, you can try putting the flats in a vice to turn them, but they're extremely narrow. What I do is put a big bolt through it, and just keep doing up the nut, and eventually it will unscrew with it.

>>2012145
>anything I can fuck up severely if I am not careful?
it's easy to strip the threads on the crank when you pull it. Make sure you remove the washer behind the crank bolt, clean the threads before installing the tool, and be careful not to crossthread it.

>>2012145
The main thing is to take care not to turn the crank puller with a tool without starting it with your fingers, and it's a good idea to check the bottom bracket while you've got the cranks off. If something bent the inner chainring, the bracket took some serious force too so it might wobble or click or something. If adjusting it doesn't fix it, it might be due for replacing.

>>2010595
If the skipping got worse with the new chain then that means your chainrings and/or cassette are worn out. New sprockets (sprocket refers to chainring or cassette cog) have round troughs between teeth and flat/square teeth. Old sprockets have square troughs and sharp teeth.
Make sure your rear derailleur and derailleur hanger are not bent (rear derailleur's pulley wheels should be perfectly straight compared to cassette cogs)
Make sure your derailleurs, especially rear derailleur, are adjusted properly. Read the Park Tool rear derailleur adjustment article. Cable tension being slightly off is a likely cause. Limit screws can cause skipping specifically in the biggest or smallest cog. B screw can cause skipping if its not adjusted properly but this is less likely than cable tension being slightly off.
Other less likely causes are front derailleur needs adjustment, worn out or dirty rear derailleur spring, bent or damaged rear derailleur, rusty or dirty shift cable/housing (oil them with DriSlide Bike Aid or wet chain lube), or incompatible components (i.e. 9 speed chain on 10 speed cassette, that sort of thing)

>>2010610
Get a chain checker tool. Chain wears out at 1000-1500 miles. Replace at 0.75% stretch preferably, AT LEAST by 1% stretch.
Riding stretched chain means you fuck up cassette and chainrings too

>>2011184
>>2011088
Replacing bolt on with qr is fine, you just need a new axle, just make sure its proper length and thickness, and the same threading.

>>2011248
Thief cant steal wheel as easily, that is the only practical difference you will notice

>>2011335
see >>2012316
mostly applies to you too, only difference is that reply is for someone who didnt try replacing cassette yet

>>2012145
make sure to thread crank puller in straight and all the way and MAKE FUCKING SURE you have the right puller. Puller for square taper and puller for splined look almost identical and if you use the wrong one you WILL fuck things up badly.

>>2012145
There is info on what chainring specs to look for on topnigger.ueuo.com
Some people herw shittalk the page because it is opinionated but the walkthrough on chainring selection is great

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thanks for all the advice, I got some more detailed pictures of the bike as it currently is
https://files.catbox.moe/nu5vxo.jpg
https://files.catbox.moe/4j7rfz.jpg
https://files.catbox.moe/g549q6.jpg
https://files.catbox.moe/xkhiem.jpg

as you can see, chainrings aren't in great condition but they mostly seem to be fine, you can see where the bolt came out in one of the pictures and i'm pretty sure the thread is stripped so I can't see putting a new chainring on without replacing the other one too. also the puller is just this generic one I got on amazon

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was looking to buy a stem on aliexpress and checked the bad reviews, some mentioned cracked stems, today I was fully dissasembling my bike for cleaning also got a new handlebar and so while removing the stem thought about those bad reviews checked the current stem and it is cracked, fuck, i got this years ago now I am thinking that motherfucker that sold it to me crashed his shit and decided to sell everything, i have also seen listings on facebook where the bike is clearly bent on the seatstays or there are visible cracks at the top tube from a typical frontal crash, fucking assholes, never buying anything second hand, keep your old rusty crashed shit or let it go and take it to the local scrap yard , thinking about going full steel dont give a shit if the whole bike ends up weighting 15kg, what the fuck am I supposed to do ? change all critical alloy parts every 3 years or something like that ? kinda mad but grateful that I am slow as shit to rebuild and wrench that it gave me time to notice this.

>>2012445
bumping to make sure I'm not fucking something up before I go at it.

>>2012458
If you want durability just buy MTB overbuilt parts. I buy used 2nd hand stuff but I don't live in your area.

>>2012445
For the inner chainring with a bad female bolt hole you should remove another bolt, match the bolt and get a tap from your local hardware store. Tap the hole and send in a new bolt. Could get a thread chaser or make one with a bolt as well, then try a new bolt. That crank puller should work, just make sure you pull any washers behind your crank bolts and use whichever tip you need to push against the square taper, whether that's the fat one or the skinny one.
Oh, and get it 100% square by hand when you thread it into the crank arm. Aluminum threads+retards can destroy those threads quick.

>>2012571
do I need any other specialist tools besides the puller, which I Imagine that I can spin with a wrench? idk about retapping the hole, I do have a proper drill but that sounds kinda risky, I'll see how it rides with no granny gear and try to adjust the front derailleur. I have lube as well and plan to just use detergent to clean stuff

>>2012572
Puller is fine with an adjustable wrench, or the correct size combination wrench.

You don't use a drill to tap a hole, you use a tap handle, tap, and a bit. Then go 1 turn, back 1/4 turn to break the chip, repeat.

If you don't need the smol ring then yeah just remove it, and set the Front derailleur to not go that low.

>>2012574
OK, will do, ill just fuck around with it until it works and clean everything up as best as I can, I dont think this will ever really be a "nice" bike to ride without a full drivetrain replacement but I might throw storage on it and use it to get groceries.

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>>2012577
K, done, here's the state of the chainrings after I took em off. I removed the granny and it seemed like the threads are mostly fine? so maybe I can replace the granny gear. cleaned everything up and heavily lubed and it's working. the shifts are also "laggy" and jumpy even cleaned up and lubed so i'll have to try and fix that.

>>2012458
The solution to a cracked aliexpress stem isn't to buy a 35 pound steel piece of shit, it's to buy a stem that isn't from fucking aliexpress.

>>2012586
>"laggy" and jumpy
check that the cables are moving freely through the housings. sometimes working lube through the housings will fix friction there, but if they're fucked you need to replace both. another possibility is there's ossified grease or something in the shifter. if the shifters themselves are laggy, flushing them with solvent while repeatedly clicking them back and forth can eventually loosen them, but it can be a slow process. then relube them with oil.
possibly the derailleurs are laggy, lubing all the pivots is a good idea if you've never done it even if it's not that.

>>2012615
i lubed most everything that moved just to be sure, and tried to clean up as best beforehand but I was not taking apart the entire set and degreasing everything, the clicking of the shifters seems fine it's mostly just that there will be a bit of a skip in pedalling if you keep pedalling while shifting and the chain doesn't move right away.

>>2012616
barrel adjuster

>>2012617
k, i'll check those.

>>2012618

see
>>2011462
>>2011468
just ride around the block and tune it in small increments

>over years wear off the clearcoat and parts of the decals below it on my top tube with my legs but the actual the paint is still perfect
>too broke for professional help
>decide to try and diy remove the gloss coat and remaining decals and then redo the gloss
>jewgle says it's impossible without sanding everything down to metal and repainting it totally
>bitch I removed it with my fucking thighs there's no way there isn't some chemical for it

>>2012621
post some pictures tard
this is an image board
I will talk about paint work with you

>>2012621
Couldn't you just sand the whole thing down to the paint then clearcoat?

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Asking here too, what's a reasonable pressure for a 20x1.95in tire? The sidewall says fucking 80-100 but after destroying 2 innertubez I'm wondering if that isn't insane.

Googling shows me that lots of people recommend max of 60, but I also see plenty of kenda tires advertised as "high pressure". Typical advice is to follow the side wall pressures but right now I'm running 45/50 and it's fine.

What gives? Do smaller tires take higher pressures??

>>2012855
Go lower pressure since you are destroying innertubes.
Pressure is based on tire size, tire construction, weight of rider, and use case.
If you were bmxing and denting your rim I would say keep it high.
If you aren't denting or feeling it wallow in corners try lower pressure.

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>>2012859
Yea I get all that, I'm chilling right now with good tires.

But it seems wild that proper pressure would be HALF of the minimum posted on the tire. Everywhere you look online when people ask "what's the right pressure for my tire" they are told "read what it says on the sidewall"

so why is mine so fucking high?? Like 80-100 is a 28mm road tire not a 2 inch baby wheel

>>2012882
Is it a well known brand? Have you looked at their website?
etc,etc.
I have some tires that are almost as big and almost as high pressure, but they have flimsy sidewalls so it needs to be higher pressure.
Proper pressure is based on whatever works for your application, generally sidewall pressure is Maximum, but your tubes can't cope.

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>>2012882
>>2012855
The pressure values on tires aren't practical recommendations, they're legally mandated markings based on lab tests and what they mean is hard to know because tire makers don't make it clear to the public what ISO/ERTRO/CPSC requirements/standards they're testing to (because that's a confusing mess and satisfying the various regulators is what matters). The "maximum" value is generally reported to be the measured value the tire actually blew off a rim at divided by 2. The lower value is something like the amount of pressure needed in testing to keep the tire in shape with up to 30% deflection in the sidewall, or enough that the tire stays on the rim when a 2000N (450lbf) lateral force is applied to the wheel.

So in practice, the only thing you should care about is the "maximum" values on a tire (and rim) and not exceed them to err on the side of caution. The "minimum" value can be ignored, because the practical minimum in the real world depends on load, rim width, tubed/tubeless, etc.,

>>2012891
>The "minimum" value can be ignored
I've ruined tyres doing that. Granted, that was riding fatbike tyres at 3 psi.

>>2012885
>>2012891
Ok so after some research it's a BMX tire. I know that dirt jumpers run really high pressure tires and assume BMX is the same.

So these tires are coincidentally 20 inch, but as a BMX tire the use case is different than say a commuter tire. There for the "80-100 psi" sidewall rating is assuming the tire is going on a BMX rim that can handle the pressures, right?

Just trying to wrap my head around this, since its like my whole life is a lie. I thought the pressure range on a tire was infallible.

>>2012919
>infalliable
almost nothing is.
Anyways if your tube is the thing that was popping it was the issue, and again if you aren't doing bmx hucks to flat you can get by with 50 or so PSI.

>>2012891
>The "maximum" value is generally reported to be the measured value the tire actually blew off a rim at divided by 2. The lower value is something like the amount of pressure needed in testing to keep the tire in shape with up to 30% deflection in the sidewall, or enough that the tire stays on the rim when a 2000N (450lbf) lateral force is applied to the wheel.
peak biketism, thanks for this intriguing bit of information

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Any idea how to get this bottom bracket out?

>>2013025
Remember that cup is reverse threaded. If you don't have the matching wrench or a good pin spanner or if it's just really stuck, see the DIY tool shown in the Fixed-Cup Tools section here:
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/tooltips/bbcups.html

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I would never wish searching for ST-9000 hoods on my worst enemy ma orco dio

>>2013029
I don't have the matching wrench, and don't even know which kind of wrench would work. The problem with the method you posted is that the opposite side is even more stuck, the outside part of the bottom bracket sheared off leaving the threaded part inside. I want to just saw this sheared off bb out with a bow saw so i can replace the entire bottom bracket but in order to do that i first need to get out this arcane bottom bracket on the other side that posted

>>2013039

First thing to do is try nailing it with a heat gun to loosen it up. A properly installed bb should have anti-seize compound applied to the bb cup threads but no guarantees that happened. Do not attempt to cut it out or force it out.

>>2013039
This is the wrench made for that kind of cup. If you can't get this you'll need to improvise some other kind of pin spanner. If everything else fails the ultimate solution would be to weld a length of scrap steel onto that cup to use as a lever arm.
https://www.parktool.com/en-us/product/adjustable-cup-wrench-hcw-11

>>2013025
>>2013029
>>2013039
>>2013045
>>2013047

I think you should take my advice with a grain of salt but hit that thing with a ton of PB blaster, wait and re-apply a few times to see if it can get in there and free up some of the gunk/rust or whatever is in there. Then take a block of wood and a hammer and see if you can tap it a few times to get it moving. The wood should take the damage an impact could cause before the metal.

>>2013036
I just don't ride on the hoods.
Sorry, I know it's wrong to do but I just don't care.
>>2013025
I like these loose cup and cone bb's but it doesn't seem like you got the spindle, balls, or plastic cover so I agree with ya, bash her out, get the other one out and stick a cartridge in there and bob's your mothers brother.

>>2013055
>I just don't ride on the hoods.
only drops?

>>2013077
Nope, I am not that cool. I use the hooks 33% of the time, tops 33%, and drops 30%.
Hoods 3%.
Well, on my non aero lever brake bike. More modern the bike the more I use the hoods.

Personally I see no reason to be on the hoods unless I am trying to push the flat, shift gears(if I am riding brifters), or worried about braking due to randos.

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so when spray painting a bike, how do you get that glossy finish? I don't wanna do a crappy job

>>2013179
>I don't wanna do a crappy job

then don't spray paint it

>>2013179
>I don't wanna do a crappy job
Then don't spray paint it

>>2012891
>and not exceed them to err on the side of caution.
I ride over max because I am a chad

>>2013179
spray paint 5-10 frames and figuring out the clear coat.

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Can anyone tell me about Connex chains? What makes them so much more expensive than other, seemingly comparable, chains? Are they worth it?

>>2013195
>made in germany
I mean that probably adds to the cost.
They look nice, but TBQH these are the types of things you need to try yourself to learn and see if it helps.
Personally, I run sram chains since their 8sp and single speed chains seem good.

>>2013195
I had a gold one from them as it was discounted to a similar price as any other 10 speed at that time. It lasted only 2000km, but my cassette was worn enough that the next chain would be instantly slipping. Still, I don't think they are anything special. I'm now using Sram XX1 which should last twice as long as regular chain. I doubt it but let's see, 3000km in now.

>>2012121
https://www.velobase.com/ViewComponent.aspx?ID=799B9408-3493-4BC2-BAAD-CE435E385B78&Enum=115&AbsPos=0

welp this one is pretty old and not super common and also elliptical so I doubt i'm replacing the granny gear without finding an entire crankset. I guess i'll just deal with it on this bike unless I really think the frame deserves a new groupset. at least it's shifting decent now.

>>2013036
There's an old internet rumor that you can use the equivalent generation 105/ultegra/tiagra (5700, 6800, 4700) hoods and have it fit 90% of the way. I ended up ordering a pair and they aren't bad. Just wish the color matched the two-tone dura ace one I have on the left.

where do i find torque spec for my bike? cannondale tells me to tighten it to correct torque but the specs are nowhere to be found in the manual

Kinda related, but is a bike shop a lucrative or at least decent business to run? In my country, we pay peanuts to bike mechanics unless it's a major job.

>>2015893
Well big corpo bought out most of the local bike shops, and they generally aren't lucrative unless you work on boutique or get another form of advertising.
BITD it was a labor of love.

>>2015027
There will be torque values printed near most bolts where it matters. If there's no printed torque value, then you just get the bolt tight enough not to slip - the size of the hex wrench you use to turn a particular corresponds directly to the amount of torque needed, the tool itself will start to flex when the fastener is fully tightened.

>>2015893
No. It's a difficult business with low margins for everyone. Nobody gets into the bike business unless they're passionate about bikes.

>>2015893
>bike business
>making money
pick one, bicycles are so efficient and relatively cheap that going into the bike business is almost financial suicide if it wasn't for the fact that they'll remain desireable because of their cheap and efficient nature.
>>2015910
>Nobody gets into the bike business unless they're passionate about bikes
this 10x

How the fuck do I tighten the brake cable with 2 hands?
>hold the brake to the rim
>hold tension on the cable
>screw in the bolt

Am I retarded

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Wheels
Industry nine hydra classic hubs with velocity cliffhangers, 26”
>>2015943
I presume you’re talking about linear pulls
Pull the cable from the anchor side while using the same hands knuckles to leverage against the caliper arm, use the other hand to screw down the anchor nut.
Get it mostly close and then use your adjustments to make it pretty.
>>2015893
You gotta live in the right place, towns with mixed transit and recreational cycling will be able to support a bike store without issue, but rarely will a competitor find a market. My small towns bike store has been around for decades because there’s greenways, a lot of trail networks and even an mtb park around
If you’re trying to open a bike store in a recreational desert or somewhere that’s 90% expressways, you’ll get nowhere
>>2013179
Take your time and use the right paint
Crappy paint jobs come from rushing and limited prep with cheap clear coats.
Factory paint looks good while costing very little because it’s done in bulk. If you want a paint job that looks nice like a factory job, but you’re only painting one bike, you’re gonna pay out the ass for equivalent paints.

>>2010604
as someone who has been riding for 10 years in a similar manner i'd say he is completely right with this. i personally to save on money just got a front single speed with a chain tensioner, i experienced a lot of fuckery since i was cutting corners, first off the chain tensioner wasn't properly adujsted to the rear gears because i used the wrong bottom bracket and the wrong crank arms, i used an used condition old standard part because it was 100 dollars cheaper and rebuilding it cost me 150 dollars so i spent 250 dollars to use a 150 dollar set in the long run. atleast the front gear is only 10 bucks from china and is so damn thick worn teeth tend to not be much of a problem, i run an original shimano one now but later i might get a chink brand one on there and i assure you it will perform the same.
>>2010599
you are going to need to replace your rear gear cassette, chain and front gear shields which requires a:
-special tool for removing crank arms or support brackets, you can get a cheap one because its not something you will use a lot, the approach here is very important
-allen keys
my advice is to buy budget premium brand shit that is cross-compatible with 3rd party nasty cheap parts and for the love of god order calipers, wrenches and a chain cleaner and two chain oils, one for summer and one for winter. my chain
if you intend on changing the front gears and rear gears which should be like 30 bucks for the front set from 3rd party, 20 for the chain and 15 for the rear gears, i just need to know what the crank arm model and number is, it should be behind the crank arm molded in or forged, i should be able to get you something on the budget and tell you about maintenance and a cost plan, i do it for my family and friends a lot since i made a lot of dumb mistakes with my previous bike and a lot of stuff isn't obvious right away so please tell me about your crank arm and support bracket type so i can tell you if you can service it easily.

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>>2013025
use one of these, if you fuck up there goes your frame, it's done for, but it will sure untigthen it one way or the other. just go to a tire shop, ask to borrow the impact and they wont even probably charge you for it

>>2015943
I put a woodworking clamp over the pads to the rim, tighten the cable, then back the pads off the rim with the barrel adjuster

>>2016068
>clamp
this

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>>2016070
i use these

>>2016012
that's not helpful dude. He's asking how to attach a tool to the cup. An impact wrench is not an answer. How even would you attach it? Not impossible but certainly that's the actual bit of info he'd need

>>2015893
no. margins are shit and the customers suck.

>>2015893
There's a reason to why most traditional bike shops are gone. They have morphed into e-bike vendors. It's easy to see and sometimes you even feel that "oh ?! so youre NOT here to buy an e-bike ... I got real customers to see after".

>>2010595
that's a nice cannondale, can you post it from the side?

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>>2016304
Here is a really old one, I don't have any recent ones... where would I get a new fork and how do I identify the year of my bike? I know the fork is carbon but with it being like a decade old I kind of don't trust it anymore

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>>2016674
anon if you're being serious then i apologize for our carbon fork discussions.
you deserve to feel safe riding your bike and sometimes friendly online discussion is basically fearmongering nonsense when interpreted as anything other than autism. Take it with a grain of salt, it's not wrong, but it's just one way of looking at things.

Your fork is fine unless you have crashed it.
If you want to reassure yourself, service the headset and inspect the steerer tube. Or, have a mechanic do it.

It is especially not cost effective to replace your fork. A nice new fork is atleast 1/2 the used value of your entire bike.

>>2016685
I didnt read the carbon fork discussion, but I have jumped this bike a few times, and ridden it down dirt roads, I would hazard a guess of 15k miles on the bike so it got me wondering... and a few hundred bucks on parts is pretty cheap vs sudden failure and smashing out my teeth or worse.

>>2016687
It's normal to ride a road bike on dirt roads.
Any 'jump' that did not damage road wheels or cause a pinch flat would not have harmed your fork either.

Road bikes generally are not dainty machines.

>>2016674
caad 10 would be about a decade old yeah, but i wouldn't worry about the fork unless it's visibly very cracked or damaged. if you must have a new one anything with the same diameter that fits the headset will do.

>>2016012
retard

>>2013179
>I don't wanna do a crappy job
how much do you like to sand? Good paintjob is 80% prep and 20% wet sanding, the prep btw is mostly sanding.
>>2013183
>>2013185
Spray is the best way short of powder coating, plating, or anodizing, what you're thinking is rattle can which is pure shit tier but if you're autistic with sanding, even rattle can is alright. Hell, if you're super autistic with sanding, you can brush Rustoleum and wet sand with passable results.

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>>2013179
>glossy finish
practice, spraying clear at the right window of temperature, sanding, maybe polishing.
I have made mistakes and it doesn't turn out great, but when I ride I don't notice the imperfections so it's fine.
One bike I need to fix the clear since I sprayed it in 105F+ weather and in some sections it's fine, in others it's too thin.
Another bike looks fine since I did a splash paintjob and the design covers my shitty job.
Another one I painted over bad chrome I sanded down and it actually looks okay.

I found following directions helps a lot, and again don't paint when it's too hot unless you know what to do.

Also, helps to have a bike with horrendous paint so even if you fuck up it's still better......

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my carbon seatpost keeps slipping
>30 mm aluminium seat tube
>ritchey 2-bolt comp carbon 27.2
>cane creek 30-27.2 adapter
>hope seat clamp at 7 nm
lithiutm grease outside of adapter
>cyclus tools carbon paste on seatpost and inside of adapter
>surfaces cleaned up with ethanol

is an 18 tooth differential on my crankset be too big? i mean is just 2 tooth bigger i cant believe its gonna fuck thing up like they want you to believe

I bent up some of my mtb cassette with some really hard shifting.
Its a deore m6100 groupset. I tried ordering a new cs-m6100 off amazon but it was hard to find and the seller just pushed back the ship date yet again. What alternatives do I have?

>>2018563
Idk if it matters but this is a 12speed, I don't think they make any other speed versions of the m6100 but I'm tossing that info in just in case they do.

>>2018565
and 1 more thing... can I just take the cassette off and see if I can bend it flat with a rubber mallet or a block of wood?... its just barely tweaked enough to make it skip around in the 3-4-5 cogs

>>2016865
I would guess the problem is your seat clamp bolt is binding up or bent, so you're reading artificially high torque values.

>>2016866
If you don't mind your shifting being slow and not always catching the chain on the first try it should work, but if reliable indexing is something that matters to you then stick to the specified range.

>>2018563
Try your local bike shop or one of the big online retailers. I looked just now and both Shimano America and QBP are showing these cassettes in stock on their B2B pages.

>>2016865
I would have just used a 30.9mm seatpost and be done with it. You can try more force, but I always watch the slit in the seattube to see if I am overdoing it or not.
>>2016866
Try it. Your chainrings are designed for a certain "gap" from one size to another, but if you are okay with slightly worse shifting it's fine.
BITD people ran anywhere from a 5-10 or 14 tooth chainring gap and it all worked.

You might just have to mess with the adjustments a little.
>>2018563
I would try bending like the other anon said, or just get a 12 speed cassette that fits a similar gear range, and freehub mounting pattern.

>>2018566
this is something I'd try. why not? if it's already not working right, you're not losing anything by trying.
I don't think a rubber mallet will do shit. yes to the block of wood but I think you'll need a metal hammer to get the force you need. but iunno if you're going to get the clearance and accuracy you need that way. you'll probably have to crack the cassette and take off the offending cogs just to get a clear shot at them, in which case clamping a shop vise over them would be easier and more accurate. or you could clamp an adjustable wrench over each tooth and bend them that way but you'd still need something like a vise to hold the cog anyway

>>2016865
i believe trace velo recommended using thick plastic sheet, maybe try that?

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I stripped threads for the first time so I think it's finally time to get a torque wrench. Most bolts are 3-7nm, maybe 15nm

What's good?

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New one for me, fixing loose freewheel on girlfriends bike. Turns out it's a freehub, but a proprietary suntour one. Uses the same teeth profile as Shimano but is shorter and 7 speed only; 8-10 speed cassettes are too long by almost 2 cogs.

Freehub is unserviceable but detaches from wheel with a 10mm Allen key which I had to go buy. Soaked in degreaser then in motor oil, it's gtg. Just hope the cassette doesn't wear out any time soon.

>>2018638
7 speed freehubs were common in the 80's/early 90's for a couple years. You can of course get an 8 speed cassette, remove the biggest cog+spacer and it should be GTG.

Can also always get a 8-10 speed rear wheel and jam her in or cold set the rear end for 135mm.

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honestly no clue what im doing

>>2018644
Will e browsing eBay when the time comes, that's a pro tip on the 8 speed. Although I thought most modern cassettes were pinned together except for the last 1-2 cogs. What brands have fully separate cogs?

>>2018655
Good luck brother I'm holding off on a full suspension purely because I know I won't maintain the rear shock and bearings

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>>2018657
going from fullsus to hardtail is grim, so lets find out how to work on this
suntour customer service was nice enough to tell that the gold shim stack tune of this takes 10 wt oil and 15 bar ifp pressure. and also that the ifp somehow set its height on its own when bleeding.

>>2018656
Most older school cassettes have pins, but you just drill them out. Or you can look on ebay for older NOS/low usage(be careful) cassettes with the 3 teeny tiny bolts.
You are only screwed if someone makes a monoblock cassette for 8 speed, but I doubt it. Most of those I see are fancy 12speed+.
>>2018655
Follow instructions, lube seals with shock oil(do not use random grease)
You got this.
desu I don't have much to say since I do them so rarely and I have more experience with forks.

>>2018625
I think they all work, its just such a light torque setting... you can probably find a torque screw driver instead. I use them at work on some electrical terminations.

I have a Nikishi 4130 with tires that only say Cheng shen and inflate to 90psi on them. What tires do I need?

>>2018879
unless those tires are annoying you there's no real reason to replace them before you wear them out. when you do order more, getting the widest size that will fit between your brakes, fork and frame is the current wisdom. beyond that, it depends on how sporty vs utilitarian you want and what you want to spend. spending a little better for a tire that's higher tier even if you don't usually buy high tier parts is considered worth it, spending a little more for tires makes sense, the benefits are exponential.
right now you can use the silca calculator to get your proper inflation.
https://silca.cc/pages/pro-tire-pressure-calculator

>>2018879
4130 refers to the steel of the frame. Measure the BSD of the rim, or read the tire. 90psi means to me it's probably a touring road bike tire, or an ancient mtb tire since one of mine is rated to 80psi.
Once you know the size and type of tire you need you can search or ask here.

I swapped out the crank on one of my bikes for a pretty old one. Now it makes a noise on every stroke of the pedal. I’m thinking the chainrings on the new crank are shark toothed but is there anything else it could be? I’m going to pull it and reinstall it this weekend just in case.

>>2018950
Should have added that the cassette and chain are both brand new.

>>2018950
Could be the chainrings are bent and your chain is hitting the FD(happened on a used bike I bought).
Could be the crank arm is hitting or the crank needs a longer spindle(doubtful). Could be your chain and cassette are good, but like you said the older chainrings are worn so... yeah.

Check everything, it should be obvious but sometimes it isn't.

>>2018920
They might original as they are finely dry rotted. The are actually keeping air, and if I wasn't going so far from home id let it ride, but I'm not walking 4 hours cause I'm unprepared.

>>2018942
Its my first road bike. I'd actually like to get some 120psi tires.

>>2018879
it's either 700c (road standard) or 27" (archaic road)

700c, 622, 28", 29, Those are all the same size.
It's probably that and those are just 'tires', there almost isn't any other size.

27" is larger, i doubt it's that, and if you hadn't said 90 psi i'd have thought maybe mtb but it'll be 700c, just normal ass tires my bro.

>>2018879
now what width tire you can run, measure your frame with a ruler, tire width is just mm.
tires commonly run ~3mm up or down in sizes, usually down, and they'll run down on narrow rims.
Don't go crazy debating 1 difference in tire sizes because tires are randomly that different often anyway.
How much clearance you want depends. Tight gaps are aero and look cool and the widest you can fit is often the way to go, but it's not great having your tire rub when you break a spoke. On road bikes with nice wheels 1-2mm each side might be fine but on some shitter you want 5mm each side.

>>2018952
Thanks, I’m 99% sure of my diagnosis just wanted to see if anyone had any other ideas. I’m going to rebuild it and see if it helps but ultimately I expect to have to replace the chainrings. Fucking campy 10-speed compact crank won’t take anything but campy NOS and it’s gonna cost like $200 to replace them.

>>2018979
Nah, nearly every other bike I have is 700c (hybrid). None of the sidewalls of any of them are anywhere near 90psi. These are like road slicks. They have this goofy "high pressure" green add on sticker on the front one. The dry rot on them is like a fine patina. And they are holding air pretty well for how they look. But there isn't too much difference in squeeze test between 60psi and 90. But to roll around on the rear one that has a pink nail sized chonk out the sidewall is stupid.

>>2018879
The size will be labeled somewhere on the tire sidewall. For example "700x25c" or "622-33" or "26x2.2""
Tell us what it says and what you use the bike for and the type of bike (road? mountain?) and we can help more specifically

>>2016687
>jumping your carbon road bike
LOL
HOLY FUCKING BASED
If you keep that up idk if you will live much longer but you are doing God's work so keep it up based chad

How long will a fairly modern (~2013) garbon frameset last? My lifetime?
If its about to fail how do I know?

>>2019005 #
I'm here cause it doesnt say. Is that possible? Has there been a tire made especially in likelyhood of being on this bike? The two markings were difficult to enough to make out.

>>2019008
>my lifetime
well if you don't ride it much and keep it inside probably.
You will know if it's going to fail. Since it will take many miles to get there, or like electronics it will be bunk within the first 1000 miles.
So, you get one, ride it, get used to it.
Then say Xmiles later something feels fucky. You look at the normal parts, and most likely it's that. Eventually it could be the frame.
>>2019029
Try soapy water on the sidewall or tire shine. After that use your phone light and do a close up examination with the lights off so you focus well on it.

If you can't see it then, measure with a metric tape or SAE and convert. 1in=2.54cm

>>2019029
there's usually printed info and then embossed info in a different location. if what you can read is embossed, then the printed info you need probably wore off. if you read printed info, search around the tire for embossed writing

>>2018993
>Nah
'nah'

nah, listen here idiot. It's 700c
hybrid tires and road tires are the same fucking size

>>2019035
Of course I did the first already. Its the kind of air-only, no sunlight dryrot that would crumble finer print first.

>>2019039
That's a good idea, I havent pulled them off yet. Is there ever writing on the inside?

>>2019042
You need to come here and rewritten reality for me, oh wise one.

>>2019100
>Is there ever writing on the inside?
no, it'll be on the exterior sidewall

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I put a new hub in my rear wheel the other day. I find using a dial gauge is the fastest way to true a wheel. Just keep picking off the highest and lowest spots and you can get runout down to a few thousandths of an inch.

I was going to modify my magnet gauge holder to fit on a camera clamp but I was missing the 8mm tap from the tap kit. I ended up using some copper shims to hold the rod tight.

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>>2019135
Only the back wheels white wall was so rotted on both sides they had nothing. The front had a barely perceptable in daylight "28-630 ( 27 x 1 1/4) C-678-2"

Conversely one of my 700C say: "28 x 1 5/8 x 1 1/2 (40-622) 700 x 38C"

These are the same? I've never owned tires this slick and domed and high pressure.

>>2018979
>it's either 700c (road standard) or 27" (archaic road)
>700c, 622, 28", 29, Those are all the same size.
>It's probably that and those are just 'tires', there almost isn't any other size.
>27" is larger, i doubt it's that, and if you hadn't said 90 psi i'd have thought maybe mtb but it'll be 700c, just normal ass tires my bro.

>>2019162
there you go. read the post


I'm really not sure why you're so oddly obsessed with the tires being slick or 'high pressure', as if that might indicate what size they are. FYI road tires are 120 PSI, and track tires go 160. 90 isn't even high pressure.

>>2019162
so yeah, they're 27" it's the archaic road std. 1 1/4" is the width.
27" tires are commonly available in 1 1/4 (32mm) and 1 3/8 (35mm).
You should measure your frame with a ruler and consider going to the wider size if it will fit.

CST (Chen Shin) and Kenda make the cheap ones. Panaracer Pasela or Gatorskins are the nicer tires you could get.

On 27" road bikes, you can convert to 700c wheels and get more tire clearance.

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>>2019176
But the sticker.....highest pressure before I had was 50.....don't crush my dreams, sir. I'm obsessed cause I've wasted my life biking for a decade on MTB tires in the roads....now being on something that rolls forever....I WANT MORE.....

>>2019177
Why do I want wider? And where to buy?

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I ordered an 8mm tap and finished modifying the brass stud for the camera clamp so I can screw in the rod for the gauge holder. Though it could be years before I actually need to use it again.

>>2019373
>>2019141
That's by far the best on-the-bike truing setup I've ever seen.

>>2019249
A "high pressure" label on a tire from the 1980's means it was designed for use on a hooked clincher type rim, as opposed to a straight side rim.

If you're in North America, tires for that 630mm wheel size are called "27 inch" and you can still get them from pretty much any bike shop (they may not stock these, but they can order them for you). Or you can order them from an online retailer like this one:
https://www.performancebike.com/bike-bicycle-tires/c15343?fa=100_8340&lg=fa

In general with tires you want to go wider rather than narrower because pneumatic tires work better with larger air volumes and lower pressures (but note that there's a sweet spot for everyone depending on your rider + bike weight and ride conditions: you always need a minimum pressure for any tire to hold its shape, and if tires are wider than you need they add weight and can make your bike handle sluggishly because of the expanded contact patch on the ground.

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>>2019377
When I first got a fat bike I needed to check the rim (turns out the wobble was all in the tire). I looked up a photo I took at the time. I completely forgot that a QR skewer will thread into one of the stock holes on the clamp, which is good so I wouldn't need to clamp onto any tubing. Then I clamped onto a piece of square tube and used a pair of 8mm nuts and bolt to attach the gauge holder. That ball joint gauge holder self destructed on me, I'm not sure the shaft type holder would work in that setup. I'll have to give it a try some time.

>>2019377
Wow. The 80s. Ever seen tires in this good of shape/barely road worthy on a bike?

A guy at a bike shop suggested I get 41mm fenders (Axiom Flascheguard 700/41) for my 35mm tires. I looked up the specs when I left the store and it says they're meant for 23-30mm tires which is much smaller than mine. I haven't picked up the bike yet, so no clue if they have installed them yet (the store is closed now), but do you think it will be an issue?

>>2019373
I just use my cheap truing stand I got for free, and if I encounter a frame/wheel setup that it doesn't work with like most modern mtb standards I will just use zip ties.

It's funny I need to true road bike wheels somewhat frequently, but I ride mtb chill enough I don't have to on those.
>>2019403
Rode with a guy on panaracer paselas. Would be my go to for 630mm/27in.

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>>2019431
I had a truing stand but sold it a month ago. I used a dial gauge with it too. I like watching the needle jump back and forth. As you turn a nipple you can see the needle move towards where it needs to be, and you don't even need to think about which way to turn the spoke wrench as you will immediately see if you are going the wrong way.

>>2019403
Those look pretty typical for old tires that were stored in favorable conditions. I wouldn't consider them road worthy for long though - see all those crackle lines on the sidewalls? The rubber on this tire is degraded from age, so if you ride on these tires the rubber on the treadcap is going to disintegrate quickly. You might get away with a few rides on these but you definitely need replacements.

>>2019429
They should fit, but barely. 6mm is the minimum clearance recommended for any fender/frame to tire combination.

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>>2019432
Back in university I made a project for an electronics class where I grafted a mechanical computer mouse onto a dial gauge to log the movement of a dial gauge. Another mouse sensor to keep track rotation of wheel. And a bike computer wheel sensor (reed switch) to tell when a full rotation has occurred. After a full rotation to measure the wheel, if you kept rotating a row of red and green LEDs on the control box would guide you back to the spoke that was furthest out.

>>2019435
>They should fit, but barely. 6mm is the minimum clearance recommended for any fender/frame to tire combination.
I'll call them the first thing in the morning then, hopefully they haven't installed them yet

>>2019429
>do you think it will be an issue?
depends on if your wheels are prone to go out of true, and if you like to get mud on your tires. And if you're competent enough to adjust them.

Tight fenderlines look cool and are aero

I'd want to know also how wide the tire -actually- is (tires are commonly 2-3mm undersized), and how wide the frameset actually is, ie, if it is even possible to fit wider fenders. Because if you want fenders and that's all your frameset can fit then just get them and get 32mm tires if rubbing becomes an issue.

>>2019452
it's a cannondale quick 5 (large) https://www.cannondale.com/en-ca/bikes/active/fitness/quick/quick-5
how do I know the width of the frameset? I don't see it in the specs? Sorry, I realize it may be a very stupid question

>>2019463
what do you think the 'actually's in my post might imply?

>>2019466
I don't know

>>2019470
he means it doesn't matter what is printed on the tires or bike spec sheet. you have to measure.

t. just bought new Continental tires in 28mm, put the calipers on them and they are 26.4.
my old Serfas tires in 23mm were actually 24.5.
annoying.

>>2019538
gatorskins or another older design measure smol. My 28 gators are always 26mm or so on vintage rims.
OTOH I have specialized all condition armadillos that are "23's" that measure 24+
Heck I have some 23's that measure 22mm.

>>2019429
update on this: the fenders look great but they rattle a bit when going through rough surfaces or holes. Is that normal?

>>2019554
It's normal to have some noise from fenders because they're a big vibrating surface that flexes a bit as you ride. The exact noise depends on the fender's shape and material, but you always get some noise no matter what.

>>2019558
okay I guess that's better than having a dirty back

>>2019554
my VO fenders (Honjo clones) don't rattle. they have a peculiar sort of attachment to the fender-stays (which is the part they borrowed from honjo). perhaps this kills the rattle? also, they came with a bunch of leather washers for all the attachment.
either way, I would go over all the attachment points and hardware looking for anything loose. rubber or leather washers can be employed, or perhaps they just aren't tightened down enough.

>>2019561
I'll probably just take the bike to another bike shop and ask them to take a look. This install was very cheap so I doubt they'll charge me a lot considering they're already installed

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i HATE cup and cone
also i tried doing the trick with adding more bearings but it's loose when tightened up so replacement bearings are en route
also i assembled everything and had my bike in ready to ride state only to find i forgot that washer while i was cleaning up so i had to do this job twice

>>2019470
so the idea of what something supposedly measures and what it actually measures is foreign to you? Is this an english language issue, are you retarded, or are you a lazy screen babby pretending to be retarded because you refuse to do anything?

>>2019589
tbf coaster hubs are not -really- designed to be serviced they're designed to go on shitters and be abused and then eventually thrown in a canal

same thing with cheap pedals.

>>2019589
skill issue

Cleaning brake pads and disc brakes are a pain in the ass. I should've prepared more clean rags.

>>2019592
nta but you sound like the retard here, most tires don't inflate to their nominal size, and why would they? in part because rims vary and it's outside their control, but in part because there's incentive for tire manufacturers to design their tires to compete with another company's tire on weight or "supple" memes and the easiest way to cheat is to play fast and loose with the specs

>>2019812
shut up cunt