19th century full suspension edition Resources:https://www.sheldonbrown.com/https://www.parktool.com/en-us/blog/repair-helpRJ the bike guy on youtube previous >>2013267
i've been looking for a relatively relaxed XL road bike frame for agesfound this ~10 yo Scott CR1 Premium which looks pretty nice. Uncut steerer. Shortish top tube. only problem is that it's Di2 only. It doesn't have any shift cable stops. Thoughts on converting it to mechanical? How bad is shifting with full length housing? Could I hose clamp some stops onto the carbon : /
>>2014873If you don't want to run Di2 (or AXS) don't buy it, there are other frame options that won't force you to compromise. Since you're looking for size XL you should talk to your local bike shop to see what they have kicking around in their back room and also to see what they can get inexpensively from their suppliers since XL and XS frames tend up to end up as overstock for obvious reasons.
>>2014873kinda shit frameset by current road bike standards tbqh. nothing about building this one makes sense from a financial, aesthetic, or practical standpoint. why are you considering going this route?
>>2014875it's $50 and i'd do a parts bin special with old 6600 10 spd stuff i have kicking around. Probably spend like $300 all up on it, mostly just nice tires. >kinda shit frameset by current road bike standardshow so? they rode it in paris roubaix. stock build was like 7kg with ultegra bike shop route is too expensive even if they're clearing stuff and honestly i've been looking for ages, higher budget even, and just don't see much that isn't either $1000+ or practically scrap.
>>2014876>>201487350 bucks... maybe.All I know is the shifting won't be as "crisp" as it would normally be, and you would need to route the housing somehow.Somewhat unrelated but I ride vintage and use full length housing when required on their brakes. Works fine and isn't too squishy. If I was doing it I would cut costs as much as possible till you can ride and see, then do things like bar tape, nice tires, and other upgrades.
>>2014876that is practically scrap but should be fine for your plan I guess. full length housing isn't really any worse than the modern weird routing in/around/through handlebars and headtube etc. if I were you I would be looking in to 3d printing some cable/housing guides to at least ziptie on to the frame in a few places; the main problem with full length housing is the annoying slapping noises.
>>2014879hmmm zip tie + adhesive cable stops might actually work quite well, i was thinking i couldn't clamp stops on it. should probably even be able to just buy something like pic rel or adapt something thanks >full length housing isn't really any worse than the modern weird routing in/around/through handlebars and headtube etc.true
>>2014872>listed for $3,700 on Park Slope craigslist
I also just like the idea of adapting something high end with janky crap chainstay damage is relatively minor compared to other used carbon frames he says he bought it 7 years ago to steal the groupset and then didn't ride it so it has ~5 years use which isn't bad.
>>2014882Just check the drive side for tire rub since I can see the NDS has some.
>>2014880I've worked with adhesive ziptie mounts a lot in various applications; you'll get the best results by assuming the adhesive will do absolutely nothing to keep the thing in place with any lateral force applied.
>>2014882I think that frame stands a nonzero chance of killing you tbqh. I'm not on the crabon = plastic meme train; I ride early 2000s carbon and I trust it to survive a lot of use and abuse for coming decades. Scott frames are underbuilt to hit meme weight specs for dentists and the particular era that frame was built was one of the worst times for carbon construction; companies knew enough to start making choices about where to cut corners but not enough to know which corner-cuts would result in customer lawsuits. if that frame were pristine? no worries at all. but it is pretty thrashed, shows obvious signs of having been raced and crashed more than once.
>>2014885>shows obvious signs of having been crashed more than onceWhat are they ?I've scrapped a few carbon frames /forks that i deemed too sketchy. Honestly think this one doesn't look bad. Avoiding weight weenie isn't a bad point. The fork is like 300 grams. >>2014883yeah that's the worst part, but it's not concentric so appears to just be through the paint and not through multiple layers of carbon. I've seen much worse.
>>2014887>What are they ?in that first pic paint chips near the headtube look like a minor crash (going from experience; I have chips like that on my bikes) and some chips on the outside of the driveside chainstay. like you said it appears to be cosmetic and you apparently know plenty about what you are getting into.
Got a pair of conti cross kings, did I fuck up?
>>2014120Allright, its done. Thanks for the help with bb and wheel axle. New crankset, BB, cassette, cables, tires. Total cost about 220€, could have been dirt cheap if I didnt change the cranks/bb since the original parts were fine.The rear brake is weird as fuck but works. It rides very nice now and Ill give it to my wife
>>2014896I like the graphic on the frame.
>>2014888>in that first pic paint chips near the headtube look like a minor crash (going from experience; I have chips like that on my bikes) and some chips on the outside of the driveside chainstay. like you said it appears to be cosmetic and you apparently know plenty about what you are getting into.dude come on none of that screams crash you're fearmongering lolnot to say that used carbon isn't sketchy but cmon
>>2014896looks sick
>>2014896The U-brake you have in the rear was pretty common but it's supposed to be on the chainstaysThat was a mtb meme for a while. You put this cool wierd rear brake in the place that's sprayed with the most crap for... 90s reasons that is bizarre to have it where a regular brake would be. The way it is routed around the seattube is like how they did centerpull brakes on mixtes. Very unusual on a mtb. U-brakes are basically just big centerpulls, and the stiff direct mount design, which was usually just on pretty expensive custom randoneur bikes. Direct mount brakes is a modern thing too, on very nice time trial and road race bikes. Dura Ace. Yours is cabled very wrong. Crossing over like that and rubbing the frame is not right . The angle of the straddle cable is insane by design. Have it not cross over, and put the straddle cable as close to the seat tube as you can before it rubs. I would get one of those new tektro straddle cables which are wider and have tiny grub screws to hold the cable in several positions so it doesn't waste so much lever travel straightening up. The front length of cable for your rear brake is too long so you can shorten the housing, and hopefully re-use the inner cable.
>>2014896>>2014910
>>2014896centerpulls btw are what the best bicycle brakes where in the 50s/60s. They got murdered in the 70s by campagnolo
>>2014910I matched cable length and wiring with how it was hooked up before. Thanks for the info Ill try to sort it out. Its not rubbing against the frame btw, there is a little plastic guide there
>>2014913the right way to measure housing is make it as short as possible so that when the bars turn all the way and lock, the housing can still reach. investigate if it's possible to not have the straddle cable cross over like that. Maybe it's not. But maybe that plastic guide is because it was setup stupidly and would otherwise rub. Because really that is pretty stupid way to setup a brake.
>>2014882If you like janky crap buy a Chinese groupset like eR9
BUMP>>2014893
>>2014919LBS
>>2014919search "'crank model' chainring bolt'"
>>2014919search "what size are grx 11s chainring bolt"
>>2014896I fucking love the Memphis decals and the purple
rebuilding a wheel with a new hub is retard easy with a spoke tension meter right
>>2014941with the hub being same as the old one
>>2014941Just follow sheldon browns page
>>2014941retard easy ;^
>>2014941I know that truing wheels isn't easy
>>2014983>>2014987dishing and truing is the easy part i dont know why redditors have trouble with it
>>2014988I find it easyish now, but it took a fair bit of practice.Because you're simultaneusly balancing up and down trueness, dish and spoke tension, and with damaged wheels it's often not viable to have all of these perfect and unless you work in a shop you're probably learning with zip ties which is harder. Another way of saying that it's easy is to say that anon doing it for the first time will be just as good (albeit slower) as a pro mechanic. Do you think that's true?
>>2014988truing a wheel is easy, the real trouble is knowing when to stop
>>2014988I find it's easy until the nipple rounds over and it's still out of whack. Then I get to have fun compromising.It's even better when my overweight ass STILL causes it to go out of true.I am a believer in 36 spoke wheels, or strong 32 spoke wheel+rim combos. On road bikes for me, of course.I use my ear and pluck the spokes, then go and use the tensionometer since my dad bought one a decade ago just for shits.Worst is a cheap 26in rim on the front of my DJ bike. Luckily it's disk so I just let it be jank and when she goes bad I will replace her.It's still fun and enjoyable so NBD.
In europe (nordics) am I legally required to dismount at a crossroad if there is a "bike and sidewalk" path and Im going straight? Almost got hit today and wondering who was legally in the wrong. Practically it was the car who was wrong of course but maybe the law wont see it that way?
>>2015016Not my crossing but it looked exactly like this from the driver who almost hit mes point of view
>>2015000Everything is easy if you ignore the hard parts. You get shit results though.
>>2015016>>2015018Speaking only for Sweden. I won't speak for the other countries.>am I legally required to dismount at a crossroad if there is a "bike and sidewalk" path and Im going straight?No, but you are required yield. In the picture however the car is required to yield because of road sign and markings before the crossing. Many drivers don't consider this when it comes to bicycle crossings, and very inconsiderately pull too far forward and block the crossing. In every case both drivers and cyclists are required to slow down when approaching a bicycle crossing so as to create a safe traffic environment for everyone.Source: https://www.transportstyrelsen.se/sv/vagtrafik/trafikregler/Generella-trafikregler/Cykeloverfart/
>>2015032Thx, not swede but close enough im sure its the same here
>>2015035You should actually look up the rules for where you're riding.
why not overfork your baiku
>>2015047Because leverage: if you make your fork longer you increase the amount of torque applied to the headtube. If you make your fork significantly longer than a frame was originally designed and tested around you greatly increase the chances of an impact causing damage to the frame. If you're thinking about a longer fork for that particular bike, personally I would not be comfortable putting a longer fork on a vintage 'crackandfail' and would want to start with a frame known to be robust or overbuilt.
>>2015049cannondale says that you can put a 500 mm long fork on their frames
>>2014913I had one with that U-brake orientation, another GT triple-triangle. Maybe they were the only ones to do it (>>2014911 is an old mixte with an ordinary centerpull, not a U-brake per se.) Personally I would just move the plastic guide down a bit to eliminate the angle at which the cable is passing through it; you don't want the plastic bearing braking force. That sucker could snap while you're braking hard and you'd lose some force suddenly. And grease it where the cable passes, of course, for autism.People shit on U-brakes relentlessly but I always found mine quite fine, in the rain, mud, whatever. The under-chainstay orientation does suck because mud clogs it up.
On a headset, Is it normal to be able to pull the dust seal away from the bottom bearings? Seems like there is way too much play between the seal and fork crown race. Should I just install a bigger cup? Feel I shouldn't be able to just pry that and see my bottom bearings
>nearby town police auction>they sell about a dozen old police bikes every year>beat up Cannondale and Trek police bikes (aluminum frames, over-specced "trekking" groupsets like old 3x9 Deore)>all sell for $600+>similarly specced hard tails from the same era with fewer miles on them go for <$150 on local FB marketplaceWhy are boomers like this? How did they become convinced that police bikes are some magical things with special, top-quality, super-reliable components?
>>2015063That pricing probably has nothing to do with boomers and is more about the differences between institutional (can't set the price too low or the boss will be unhappy and you'll devalue what you're selling) and private sellers (willing to take what they can get).>>2015058Depends on the specific part. Some older headsets/hubs/BB "seals" really were little better than dust covers.
>>2015058Unless it's knocking for and aft it's the right size. Many "sealed" systems from yore are designed like that. If it rains just keep an eye on those components. >>2015047I did this on a frame(max 160mm, went to 180mm)Pros? More fork, slacker angle, longer front center.Better for descentsCons? More force on headtube/downtube junction, heavier, seat tube angle slacker, longer bike, worse uphill and on flats.On older bikes it's viable, wouldn't on new ones since they all have DH geo anyways.>>2015053Then go up to around that length.Real issue with cannondales is they use a weird headtube size so parts can be weird to convert to a different fork.Still possible, just do your research.
>>2015016In my european country you are to dismount when using a pedestrian crossing. It is a pedestrian crossing after all. They have relaxed the dismounting requirement recently and as always made the legal situation worse. The law now reads you have to dismount but you may continue riding your bicycle when using a pedestrian crossing but when doing so you do not have a right of way.Recently one of those battery powered boomers rode his electric motorcycle across a pedestrian crossing right infront of me and even had the audacity to holler and imply I was in the wrong (I yielded when it became evident the electrician was braindead).Now the real question you should be asking yourself is:How on earth did you end up on a pedestrian crossing in the first place? Have you been riding a bicycle on sidewalks or other pedestrian infrastructure? It is a really pathetic behaviour to invade protected pedestrian infrastructure and essentially bully the most vulnerable. Especially if someone is doing so because they can not take the motorist trying to bully them.TLDR: Dismount to use any pedestrian infrastructure. Including pedestrian crossings.
>>2015076Oh, you didnt read my short post before starting to froth and foam. Sad
>>2015083They probably read it but couldn't comprehend it. I don't think they know what bicycle infrastructure is.
Is there any way to raise the distance from ground to pedal? I got a new fork and my bike is pretty low now. I kind of like it but am curious if it can be adjusted
>>2015131wider tires, shorter crank arms, thinner pedals
>>2015076>In my european country>>2015016>In europe (nordics)why are you fucking spastics so obtuse about where you live? you're talking to like 5 people who don't care about you and all you're doing is making your story less detailed and interesting
>>2015058sounds like you have a shit headset that you shouldn't be modifying, but replacing. on the other hand, headsets basically don't matter as long as they're greased and tight enough.i have a couple split pipes to knock them out and a piece of threaded rod with bolts/washers to press them in. It's easy to make these tools.
Hybrid bike, back tire's rim sinks all the way to the floor while riding. Less than a year of use, only city use so far I have a pump with a manometer and I'm filling it up all the way to the max recommended pressure for hybrids, but the issue persists. No audible hisses or perceivable leaksWhat to do?
>>2015136have you triedreplacing your tube
>>2015136tube has a slow leak, ie, a tiny hole. It's probably caused by something so it's best to find it. remove the tube, make 2 marks on the rim, tire and tube with a vivid so you know where they all line up. inflate the tube to 1 million psi, find the hole, and then scrutinize the corresponding spot on the tire and rim to find/fix what actually caused it. Patch tube.
>>2015131bigger front tire is what I would do. Of course ride it and see if you like the current setup or it's worse.>>2015136Leak. What I do is take the tube out, inflate it to like 5-10 psi(really low pressure) and shove it in a bucket of water. Once I see the bubbles I mark the spot with a paint marker, then patch. Make sure to let the glue get tacky before the patch goes on.
>>2015137>>2015138>>2015148ThanksI'm new to this so thanks for the detail
How quickly will I fuck up my knees by doing 4000 foot climbs on a single speed gravel bike multiple times a week? I'm too poor to afford one with gears.
>>2015153Just depends what gear ratio you've selected. If it's low enough that you don't have to strain yourself to get up the grades involved (or are willing to walk when it gets too steep) then you won't necessarily hurt yourself.
>>2015153So either you pick a regular gear and just get comfortable walking it up hills, or, you pick an insanely low gear and spin out on the flat. With the super low gear you can also do technical riding, pick your way around sketchy stuff and get up walls. For injury, listen to your body. It's ok to mash a big gear, sprint, grind, or throw the bike around. But only when you're -doing it-. If your legs get behind the gear you're trying to push and you're not able to put the power in, you are in a place to get injured. When that happens and you don't have lower gears to escape into, get off and walk. Maybe also reconsider what you can afford. How much is a 'single speed gravel bike'? Look at buying a used hybrid or 90s mtb or tourer which has gears and then put expensive gravel tires on it like G-Ones or Race Kings on.
>>2015155I have 36-16 gearing right now. I do have to walk occasionally when the grade gets over 10-12%, but it usually isn't more than 8. I have a really high pain tolerance so I'm actually not sure if I'm straining in a bad way or if it's just normal climbing pain. >>2015158I paid 200 for it and it's my only bike, which I also commute on, so I can't really do a tiny gear. I think that i'm almost always able to "put power in" but on really steep sections I sometimes stall out and have to walk. When it gets that steep I also can't stand on the pedals because the tire will spin out on gravel.
>>2014912Tbh Ive had cantilevers that've worked worse than some center pulls
>>2015047He does it here, one of my most favorite bike build vids https://youtu.be/RsyCeOLjyu4?feature=shared
Guy selling this for $60….Not sure what the frame size is, but I’m gonna go check it out today. How does it look for a round town beater?
>>2015153I feel like spinning in a low gear is worse for your knees than standing up in a medium low gear That's probably wrong tho
What can I expect with a fixie?
>>2015185old Peugeot is notorious for having weird French sizes that are incompatible with the standards used by rest of the world.it looks neat but definitely avoid if you want to mod it, and probably avoid anyway
>>2015185Good. That bike has been rebuilt with a 27"-700c conversion. 1x conversion. modern pedals. It's a very sensible use for old french gaspipe shitters. you can add a front basket very easily to those bars, there is nothing in the way. size is medium-small. ~52-54swept back bars make the bike suitable for smaller people, The colour is nice. What it's worth is hard to say because it just depends on the condition of everything.
>>2015197It's already got new wheels. So tire size and helicomatic meme hubs is solved. It probably has a claw hanger which are fairly standard, but if it is a nicer frame (its not) with a forged simplex hanger on the frame, those are easy to tap from M9 to M10. simplex derailers are awful but i'd guess they're already gone if it even ever had thosebb is probably fine, probably british, but if it's some french meme one who cares on a $60 gaspipe beater?
>>2015190when my dad first tried singlespeed mtb he kinda noticed this. I think seated spinning was fine but seated mashing was worse than standing and the local terrain made for a lot of standing.
>>2015198If I’m 5’9 / 5’10 could I make that comfortable? My main bike is 55cm
>>2015160>normal climbing painThis isn't a thing. Riding your bicycle is not supposed to hurt. Discomfort from exertion is one thing, of course, but actual pain in your knee is a sign your bike doesn't fit or your form is so bad you're melting your joints.
How do I tell what kind of bottom bracket I have? I know it's English threading, but BSA vs whatever, all that, I have no idea.I want to rebuild my old steel road bike with modern parts this winter.
>>2015239Measure it with good calipers, at least thats what I did. Then when you have consulted the charts check if your conclusion makes sense timeline wise
>>2015240>consulted the chartsMy star charts might be out of date
>>2015241I see your stars are unalined and you must fast for 3 days before you have a chance of finding it.>>2015214It's a little small, but you can get a bigger stem and seatpost if required.>>2015160If your knees hurt the day after and you have to ride the same route every day I would walk the hills, or get a lower gear.On hard effort days where I ride single speed 48-18 on the road I can have that happen. Or if I push big gears on my road bike which means staying in the 52 front ring and maybe doing 52-20 at the easiest.I used to commute on single speeds and the road bike was fine for a couple short hills since I would just stand, but too many hills and a gear bike or even e-bike is way better.
Is a frame protection wrap or similar worth it for a CF frame where the baked in protection isnt? If so, any recommended kits/brands? inb4 "buy clear vinyl car wrap and use that"
>>2015275Forgot to specify mtb
>>2015275It will protect your paint and finish, and basically nothing else. It is a bit of a process to do yourself (which is why factory-done wrap isn’t normally a thing, or is extremely minimal)
>>2015277Cosmetic is fine, and looks like the cheapest/best route is clear 3M Automotive paint protection vinyl that comes in 6" wide rolls. Wet apply like a car wrap, but you have to do your own cutting which is generally the only thing you see people QQing about with it
>>2015275apparently people use something called "helicopter tape"?
>>2015303It’s another 3M product, I don’t think the specifics matter too much as long as it’s good with tight curves and UV/yellowing resistant
I built my old alu hardtail up into a rigid cruiser and it doesn't compare to my 90s steel mtb in terms of feel and sovl also made me realize I need a road bike a mtb is heavy and slow no matter what you do to it
>>2015308steel is real.Welcome to the darkside.Road bikes are fun on the road, rigid mtb's are okay but more croozy
>>2015312I like my rigid for trips and croosin but road bikes mog if you are trying to work out or go for longer
>>2015214it will be cramped. fine to knock about on but not good for riding hard or anything like that
>>2015308yepthats how it goes
>>2015275i'd definately do the chainstays and around the fork crown. That's where carbon frames rub through. Leave the rest alone
>>2014872I want to start cycling to work. Problem is, I live 15 miles away and my phone says that would be an hour and 30 minutes. Each way.I work out and am in... average shape. Don't do any cycling currently. All I own is a shitty walmart bike from like 8 years ago.How should I go about this? Should I buy a better bike and start riding it to work? Should I begin with short trips before doing the full 15 every day?
>>2015308Let's see the picture. 90s mtbs are basically fucking slow and steer like boats. Total meme
>>2015185It's a piece of absolute shit I assure you. And downtubing shifting with townie bars is fucking terrible (I've tried it)
>>2015329>downtubing shifting with townie bars is fucking terriblewhat you have is a bike which is not ergonomic to shift, and so you don't shift it much. That is often fine for a beater. Nice even. the advantage is that you have less cabling in the way of a basket and it's easier to experiment with bars. Once it's dialed in you might easily convert to shifters on the bars. Swept cruiser bars get oversold online by unracers who put them on expensive bikes and pretend they're extremely versatile. No. They're for cruising. The riding position does not suit riding. The usefulness is limited. As long as you understand that and use the bike as a beater, having poor shifting can be absolutely fine.
>>201532715 miles one way as a daily commute is a tall order if you're not already an in shape cyclist. If you give yourself ample time you'll certainly be able to complete it, but you'll never be able to sustain it. Id recommend 1) start cycling more with your shitty bike. Just ride man don't worry about distance, keep it 1-5 miles. Just ask yourself "what would it be like if i biked to THIS place". Learn what it's like to travel by bike, explore alternate routes you couldn't take via car.2) get a real bike. Walmart bikes are truly awful. A used road bike will take you soooooo much farther so much more efficiently 3) Pick one day in the near future and just bike to work. See first hand how hard it is. Hopefully by now you've ridden at least 20 miles in one go. Just make it a dedicated adventure.Don't expect to just be able to start riding 30 miles in a day regularly, that's truly high mileage for any human. For a novice it's impossible I don't care if you're an athlete, if you aren't regularly riding you won't be able to do it. You have alot to learn about nutrition, gearing, clothing, packing for work, bike sizing and positioning. The list goes on. You should set you goals much much smaller for the time being. If you aren't gonna read all that, get a better bicycle and start riding smaller trips.
>>2015336Thank you for this anon
>>2015329Cringe it's peak beater bike and I did the same and LOVED it
>>2015327eh, that milage is probably conservative, meant for people older and not in shape. but you, I'd expect to spend at least an hour anyway.shitty Walmart bike won't do you any favors but if it's been reliable for you so far, it might hold up while you get in your commute groove .I'd definitely do some rides further than you've ever gone before to test yourself and the bike. do 5 miles, then rest a day, then 10. then try your commute .after a couple days of high(er) mileage and some rest days, you should be able to fall into 15 , work, 15 back without much issue, particularly if you're still in your 20s or early 30s; but I'm 50 and can do over 30 in a stretch as a lifetime biker without even thinking about it or planning or anything
>>2015329never been a problem for me. sounds like a skill issue >>2015341'Yata GAAAAAAANNNG
>>2015341nice bike. god i hate those light action mechsyou should lurk for period tricolour or 105. much nicer. you should also hang out for some nicer less vintage short pull brake levers. Like no rush but just look for some, they'll work better. would also be nice with some risers, then you could have a basket too. and iunno why you're running that hideous saddlebag when you have a rack. Get a pannier or a basket or a milsurp bag or a thrift store camera bag on the rack instead. you could also paint the flutes of your seatpostOr just leave it all as is cos it's too small for you. I know the struggles of wanting an enormous frame but they do exist and it's so nice over coping with large.
>>2015356No offence but who asked man. Anyways that bike is toast now, it's long gone. it was a miracle it made it to its beater bike stage as you see it pictured above. >>2015348You get it
>>2015327Strava heatmap is your friend
how do you get the stink out of gloves i wash them but the smell just comes back >inb4 buy new ones
>>2015327The issue here is that your walmart bike is going to have constant mechanical issues and no amount of fixing and truing will make that not true
>>2015394Vinegar, Dial Gold antibacterial soap, or boil or freeze the gloves
>>2015394pretreat with bleach
Steel or Carbon fork? I mainly just do long rides with them but I intend to do some light touring when I have some free time. I'm kinda scared mounting stuff on carbon like racks and such.
>>2015449Steel.>whymuch better to have welded nuts/bosses or a drilled and tapped steel section then a rivnut in a carbon fork.Carbon forks are better if you ride really hard since they can be stiffer. Or if you need lightness maxxed out.
>>2015449Carbon, if you get one that's meant to have racks it's reinforced where necessary. Steel is hipster shit
>>2015449recurrent reminder that Gueorguiev used the Lauf Carbonara carbon fork with composite springy things and as such any opinion stating carbon was not up to the job while not providing any argument to why this would be is invalid. Maybe someone could make the case od being way more demanding than Iohan, idk.
>>2015452Rip to a real nigga
>>2015394>not smellmaxxing your gloves to win sprints
>>2015449Carbon forks just have way too many advantages at this point, get carbon, and get a different way to mount a bag
>>2015452Did he strap nylon bags to the fork legs though? I’m gonna guess he didnt
>>2015389fuck you
>>2015452I just don't trust rivnuts in carbon, which is the easy way to put attachments for bags.If you mold in nuts somehow it's probably fine.
>>2015449If you want to mount racks, get a steel fork, that's a no brainer. But you can do light touring without a front rack, and carbon will be better for road riding. Carbon forks are strong, light and usually ride well. Lots of people tour with carbon forks (pretty much all nice gravel bikes). They aren't not strong, infact they're extremely strong (for the weight). You can absolutely rely on carbon to be safe. But if you do damage it, say in a crash, locked at a bike rack, or just by knocking it around (transporting a touring bike in a bus or plane etc is a risk) you need to replace it. And after ~5 years, it's likely to show damage anyway, peeling clearcoat, etc. The failure mode for carbon is sudden and catastrophic and so you want to err on the side of caution with it. Whereas steel can safely take more abuse. So the choice to go with carbon over steel is just about cost and lifespan. A carbon fork is more of a disposable component. Replacement carbon forks for bikes can be quite expensive so often it makes your entire bike disposable. Really though, a nice steel frameset, which is lighter gauge tubing, can just as easily fold up and become scrap when you crash it. The idea of a 'forever bike' is usually nonsense and most people when they dream of building a bike to keep forever end up getting other bikes too that they like more. You don't need bikes to last forever. People saying you can just put bags on your carbon fork and that there's no disadvantages are just retarded reactionaries. Personally i think if you have 1 bike it should be as close to a light fast road bike as possible.
>>2015499>And after ~5 years, it's likely to show damage anyway, peeling clearcoat, etc.where do you idiots get this shit
>>2015336>Don't expect to just be able to start riding 30 miles in a day regularly, that's truly high mileage for any human. For a novice it's impossible I don't care if you're an athleteI rode 1000 mi in 17 days with camping stuff last December after having ridden maybe 300mi in the five years before that. It was fine and I had a great time. Come to think of it, some long-standing knee pain actually went away afterwards. >>2015327 DBAP, start by trying it once, maybe on a weekend so you're not dealing with time pressure, seeing how long it takes you, how tired you are afterwards, what annoys you about your gear and setup, what would be nice to have, whether you like the route, etc. Adjust and iterate according to your findings and have fun.
>>2015504Personal experience dealing with a tonne of used bikes. I've scrapped a few bikes because the carbon fork was sketchy. Like pic rel, a pinarello, the clear all over is peeling, scratched, and there's corrosion where the fork tips are glued. Paint on steel frames deteriorates too but it isn't sketchy in the same way. I rode a carbon Tomasso for a season and the clear on that started to deteriorate too, also, the glued aluminium like the bottle cage bosses started to corrode (one even came unglued). People say rust on steel is an issue but aluminium corrosion is worse and carbon frames with glued aluminium bosses, inserts, sleeves, etc, are the worst. All bikes get beat up over time, the difference is just that steel bikes develop patina and charm while carbon bikes just become junk.
>>2015504by all means though, buy an old beat up carbon fork bike, overhaul it, ride it, and post pics of it. would be a first on /n/they're on the market too.
>>2015499>A carbon fork is more of a disposable component. Replacement carbon forks for bikes can be quite expensive so often it makes your entire bike disposable.A new carbon road fork is 200 dollars. It's pretty difficult (to say the least) to buy a half decent used road bike for that much - and by that I mean something more than a beater for commuting.Yeah I agree riding old carbon can be sketchy, but to blanket call it disposable is just silly. I mean while we're at it, steel corrodes easily and aluminum fatigues so the only sensible choices for structural material in bikes are magnesium or titanium by that logic.
>>2015524>A new carbon road fork is 200 dollarsa stock fork for a nice road bike, or a better aftermarket fork, ritchey, enve, columbus etc, is more like $500-$1000That's the budget for a used race bike. I already said that you can easily wreck a steel bike and bikes usually don't last forever anyway. This isn't a diatribe against carbon. But lots of people still ride steel frames that are 30-50 years old, or, that are incredibly beat up. It is different.
>>2015524>steel corrodes easilyyou could just live in a desert like I do and not leave bikes outside when it rains.I buy what I consider "nice" used vintage road bikes for 100 or less. Sure, maybe some traveling but top the line 80's-90's stuff is good enough for me.If you look you can get used lemond road bikes for 200-500 and those are some of the best steel bikes mass produced.
>>2015511I am not seeing anything visibly wrong with that fork or that CF. I think youre being a bit anal about it.There is no delamination or chipping or fraying of the fibers or any sort of gap forming between the metal/CF. All that has come off is some of the epoxy topcoat or protection film. And what corrosion? The blush of rust on the fork mounts themselves? Because all I see is excess epoxy from when they set them in the CF.
>>2015511There’s a TON of 10 and even 20 year old carbon still in use today, there isn’t any kind of guaranteed degradation with just age
>>2015512This nigga really scared to ride a 2010’s road bike
I'm looking to buy a new bike and there's this one at a good discount - Scott SUB 40.The one thing that's bothering me is that the derailleur cables are exposed on the bottom - is that going to be an issue if I'm not big into maintenance/cleaning?On the other hand, most new bikes have the cables inside the frame, and I've read that they can rattle inside, which is a great concern for me.
where do i find torque spec for my bike? cannondale (quick disc 5 btw) tells me to tighten it to correct torque but the specs are nowhere to be found in the manual
i called up a bike shop on if they can cut down my carbon fibre mtb handlebarsthey said that sure, its the same as cutting normal handlebarsthink i can trust them?
>>2015578it is the same, yes. you could do it with a hacksaw and a couple hose clamps as guides
>>2015554exposed cables are not an issue, in fact they make shifting and braking smoother due to less friction from the housing.
>>2015554no issues t. current and all previous bikes had it
I am new to bikes, sometimes when I shift into a lower (easier) gear on my rear derailer it doesn't catch and I have to shift twice, but I have no problems shifting to harder gears. What do
>>2015587could be slack in the cable, could just need the barrel adjuster twisted like a half turn towards the big gear.shift up to the little/high gear and see if there's any slack in the line. if so, unbolt the calmp, pull it straight, maybe a tiny bit of tension and reclamp the bolt.
>>2015587check for wear, if it's not worn out it's a tension issue. index the derailleur, following the park tool tutorial makes it pretty easy.
>>2015575Look at the part, if it has a torque value on it use that.Otherwise look at your frame, or bike parts.Or "gud-n-tight" does the job for most aluminum parts. One trick is to use a 1/4in spanner or smaller tool and get things fairly tight. if you use a larger tool you have to be more careful.>>2015587Probably slack tension.
thoughts on the trek checkpoints ?
>>2015645they're fine. i personally wouldn't wouldn't get one of the carbon models because that cable routing is retarded.
>>2015645It's fine
what is the large end of the tool used for? the teeth are like 27.5mm vs 19.8mm diameter
ok the big one is for 350. some tools are only for 240/180
Can a derailleur be fucked beyond adjustment or am I doing something wrong?Been trying to tinker with an old bike I've been using for 12 years and I want to fix the rear shifting. Never adjusted it before and kind of got used to its quirks.No matter how I try to tighten/loosen the cable, it just doesn't shift right.Can you recommend a good video on how to do it properly? Can it be that the gear shifter is what's faulty and not the derailleur? Should a shift kit this old be replaced?
>>2015764It can if the hanger is bent. This is the most straightforward video I've foundhttps://youtube.com/watch?v=36YFI637EZs
>>2015764>Can it be that the gear shifter is what's faulty and not the derailleur?No. Shifters can gum up and stop shifting easily, but that won't mess up your indexing. What is usually the cause of 'can't tune indexing' is excessive friction in the housing, which causes clutching, so like the inner cable goes out a bit, and doesn't go back when you shift back because the friction is too high. Short of recabling (definately a good idea) you can unbolt the inner, don't pull the housing off the end of the inner, because you'll never get it back on past the crimped part, but that allows you to pull the pieces of housing out of their stops, and slide them around, working oil into them. That usually fixes stiff housing, unless the ends/ ferrules are really disintegrating. Beyond that>>2015776>It can if the hanger is bent.That's the other thing that causes 'can't tune indexing'. And it's easy to fix. You can eyeball it, unbolt the derailer, and simply bend the hanger straight with a big crescent wrench. There's a proper tool for it which can do it more accurately, but for 9 and lower spd systems it's good enough. The derailer itself can be bent too. >Can a derailleur be fucked beyond adjustment or am I doing something wrong?So yes, it's possible that your derailer is bent, sometimes this is impossible to tell, and it will just never index correctly. That's really at the end of the line, and fits the general last strategy which is just if you can't setup your shit, change the parts. It's pretty rare though, unless someone (maybe you) has tried to bend the hanger with the derailer.
Any of you ever have a "cursed" bike? This bike I have now and have had for a few years just feels cursed to me. Ive crashed majorly twice on this when I had never once crashed before in the 25+ years biking. Ive popped the tires like 4 times, tubes how many times, gears always seem to get fucked up, etc. Seems like no matter how much I fix it or pay for it to be fixed, its always got problems.Genuinely considering just throwing it out and getting a new one.
>>2015784throw it off a cliff or into a canal
>>2015784Sell the cursed bike to someone elseGet new bike???Profit!
>>2015784Give it to someone at least. It'd be a shame to dispose of a curse in the 21st century, that's a rare thing nowadays. I know people who would pay good money to be cursed
>>2015784I would get rid of it.
WTF is this bike my friend just bought ??
>>2015851Vintage jamis MTB with road/slick tires.Good news is jamis made some good frames here in america, but I can't tell if that is one.Pretty old too judging by the smoll headtube+old forks. My guess is early 2000's or late 90's. Give us a drive side pic for better help.
>>2015853>generic hybrid>possibly made in americalol l ol>Pretty old>vintage>guess late 90s you can buy a NEW jamis citizen with a 1" quill stem. It's not a mark of old just a mark of cost cutting.
>>2015859sounds like you had a bad day at work
>>2015865yes
>>2015853>>2015859Sees like a crazy combo of adjustable stem, full suspension including double saddle suspension…plus tiny frame
>>2015905>full suspensionwhat?
>>2015911I think he is adding in the suspension seatpost, which is very nice for bumpy/shitty roads, but add in the massive seat it just looks ridiculous.
>>2015851a manlet bike
Are titanium bikes a meme or valid?
Anyone's strong opinions on V brakes vs. normal cantis? I have run both a fair amount and there's no denying the braking curve is a lot smoother with the cantis, but I can't seem to dig up an answer on exactly why V's aren't worth it. They seem far more tolerant of everything and piss-easy to set up, especially on the road. I'm tired of >"oh, it's raining, better remember to double stop distances">"oh, I forgot to fix my toe-in yesterday, here comes the SHRRIIIIEEEEEEEEEK"And yet everyone with posts, cx, touring, rando or whatever is still running cantis. V's seen only on walmart bikes. Are these oft-hinted at "good cantis" really THAT much better? Where can they be found? I have picrel with kool stops at the moment
>>2015930nobody seems to stick with them for long
>>2015931for me its saints
>>2015931when's the last time someone made suspension that's compatible with cantilevers
>>2015935>>2015934frame is from 83 so kind of moot.
>>2015931>cxmud clearance and lever compatibility>touring, randofender clearance and lever compatibility (for drop bars)>V's seen only on walmart bikesbefore disc became more common, v-brakes are pretty much all you'd see on hybrids, comfort bikes, kids bikes, entry-level mountain bikes, etc.good cantis can be awesome and easier to set up than the smooth post pads like in your pic. i'd rather run v-brakes though, unless i need the clearance noted above.
>>2015938Thank you anon. Would you say threaded posts are a marker for better cantis in general? I have a pretty good eye for what makes most components likely to be "good" at this point but this has left me scratching my head.
https://bicyclewheelwarehouse.com/product/pure-race-700c-wheel-set-silver-and-gray/Opinions on this wheelset? With coupon I can get it shipped for $250. 1570g, and all silver so swag points. My current wheelset is like 2500g (axis 2.0 off of a specialized allez) so seems like it'd be a nice upgrade but maybe my money is better spent elsewhere? My thought was I could sell the old wheelset for like $125 to bring down the cost even more.
>>2015959the rim looks really low quality like a stretched box section, at least they didn't paint it so the paint wouldn't be flaking off... and holy shit, they say it's 19mm wide but that's the external width, it's only 14mm internal. i'd look for nicer rims regardless of weight, although dt swiss rims are probably overpriced in the US the last time i checked (years ago). 2.0mm straight gauge spokes are pleb tier, the wheelset would be barely an upgrade other than in weight.the claimed weight of axis 2.0 is only 2036g here and it has 19mm internal rim widthhttps://probiketrader.co.uk/products/road-wheelset-specialized-axis-2-0-700c-rim-brake-shimano-11-grade-b
>>2015968Oh shit well. I'm a dunce. Also realized those warehouse ones are 10spd only. I'll just ride these out. ty boss
like you could probably save a few hundred grams elsewhere like with a chinese carbon saddle, TPU inner tubes, kapton tape instead of rim strips, nicer tires
>>2015970Yea but aren't nice wheels, well, nice? Stiffer and rotational mass and all that?
>>2015992nta but>$250>nice wheelsin what reality? I imagine they work fine but I think you want to save up a little
>>2015939There are no good or bad cantilevers, just ones that are easier to set up, and ones that are still not set up properly
>clean dirty bike chain with degreaser and toothbrushes>get it to look pretty clean>rinse with water>chain looks dirty again with dark grease marks everywhere>clean with degreaser again>get it to look pretty clean>rinse with water>it looks dirty againWhy do it be like that?
>>2015931I like v brakes since I haven't bothered to optimize canti setup.Someone else setup canti's on my CX bike and they are the strongest rim brake with a nice firm feel. Trp's.I setup canti's on an old road frame and they kinda suck.V brakes are easy to setup. I have a couple decade old shimano xt's or even just unnamed shimano ones and they work great.I only put canti on the road frame since I didn't have spare caliper brakes and a bajillion canti parts when my dad took them off and put v's on....>>2015930They are real. Go ride one to find out if you like it. I am convinced material does matter, but builder geometry+specs+etc matters more which is why you have comfy steel vs stiff steel, comfy carbon vs stiff carbon, etc etc.
I upgraded my old 12-speed road bike to a 7-speed freewheel (13-34) so I actually have a climbing gear now. I fucked something up, because whenever I shift from the small to big chainring on the 18t cog, my chain drops. I fucked with the limit screws yesterday night and it's a little better, but it still happens. What else should I do?
>>2015935>when's the last time someone made suspension that's compatible with cantileversmost rim brake suspension forks have a hole on the bridge, ostensibly for a fender, and you can mount a brake stop on it. So pretty much all of them are compatible with cantilevers.
>>2016017Chain is still dirty internally. Chains once dirty are just kinda dirty. the only way to actually clean a chain is to fully submerge it in containers of solvent and shake it and repeat until the solvent is clean but that is a cunt of a job. Cost of a new chain is like $20.
>>2016047so your high limit is set correctly?shift into the big ring + small cog, turn the high limit in until it rubs and then go out a tiny bit. If your chain still drops off the outside, i would question is your fd height/ angle correct. You want like 1-2mm clearance only and for it to be straight. If the limit is right and the angle and height are right, then try a different derailer. Those are the only relevant adjustments. Sometimes shit just doesn't work well together. When you reach the end of the line on adjustment then swap parts. Or, maybe, your chainring or chain are worn out.
>>2015931Those dia compes are for narrow clearance audax spec bikes. Your frame is probably not compatible with most other cantilevers, or, mini-vs.
>>2015930>Are titanium bikes a meme or valid?The idea that they will necessarily last for ever is a meme. I've seen several scrapped ti bikes that cracked welds and you are just as likely to wreck one in a crash. Ride quality is equivalent to high end OS steel (853 etc) and personally i much prefer the look of a nice paintjob to ti, but of course there are lots of really nice ti bikes around.
Going to buy a new bike soon and want to learn how to adjust shifters, change brake pads and other maintenance on the old one.What kind of repair stand should I get for tinkering on it as a non-serious hobby project? Are the cheapo ones on Amazon okay?
>>2016017shake chain in a jar of mineral spirits etc over top of coiled chain, pour out dirty spirits in big jar or bucket, repeat until chain jar spirits don't change color. put dirty bucket outside where it won't get rained on until it evaporates. don't rinse with water, just let chain evaporate overnight or maybe a couple hours in bright sunlight, relube and wipe down.
>>2016047how does your chain drop off the middle of the cassette?
>>2016056I had a stand and lost it once when moving, left it in another state. since then I just put screwdrivers in my pocket and ride around the block. I could afford a new one but meh. gear adjustment on a stand can be thrown off when ridden due to the chainstays flexing so unless you work on bikes all day then who cares
>>2016059he obviously means it's dropping off the chainring
>>2016064then it's not catching. a dropped chain is a different thing but I guess he just doesn't know what he's talking about
>>2016052It might not be, just realizing. When I put it in the stand to work on it, I think shifting the FD pushes the chain too far to the outside, and when it's under load that's when it drops. The parts are all original to the bike outside the freewheel which is new, the bike's like 40 years old
>>2016069lol ok so by 'fucked with the limit screws' you don't mean that you worked out how to adjust them and then adjusted them, you just randomly fucked with them?
>>2016065he's overshifting and dropping the chain off the outside of the big ring likely because his high limit is too far out . Is that not a dropped chain?
where can I get something like this
>>2016072he said he has a 13/34 and it drops when he's on 18. unless his granny on the crank is 18 but I don't think they usually go below 20
>>2016073https://www.bikesdirect.com/products/mercier/nano.htm?Good price and decent spec, not that light though. And like all bikesdirect bikes, the assembly is massively cost cut, so you really want to overhaul it out of the box. https://velo-orange.com/collections/neutrino-mini-velo/products/neutrino-miniveloIf you want a really nice one. You could also consider lurking craigslists for a high spec 24" XXS bike, a terry maybe, and converting it with bmx bars to a cruiser. Maybe a 650c tri bike, and do a 26" conversion.
>>2016073japan
>>2016076yeah he also said it drops when shifting the front so i assume it's dropping on the front that would make way more sensethe fact he only thinks it happens in one rear gear is likely irrelevant iunno though
>>2016077y thoI still don't understand the purpose of these bikes. Is it easier commuting on trains/up and down stairs?
>>2016082they're just kinda silly which is fun and charming
>>2016057>look up mineral spirit>it has to be brought to a city dump to be disposed safelyno
>>2016097solvents are flammable the reason they say that is because you can start a fire in the garbage truck but lots of shit can do that do you care?just put it in the trashthe other thing you can do is pour it into a motor oil container and drop it off at any auto parts store, for free. You're gonna slightly fuck up the recycling process for the motor oil but not critically.
>>2016098just pour it down the drain lmao
>>2016073Southeast asia
>>2016082The ultra short wheelbase makes it extremely nimble at very low speeds, a good combination for urban commuting through tight cities. It’s also a bit more convenient to store. In practice though, they’re just a meme bike to look cool and be different; the deep-city commuter is better served by a folding bike (that are allowed on trains, unlike normal small bikes/minivelos)
>>2016097>concerned about mineral spirits???
>>2016097>doesn't filter and reuse his mineral spirits for years.
>>2016098>>2016101the auto parts store will just pour it down the drain
>>2015083No I did but 'you' here was not a (you) but rather a general 'someone'. It's an abstraction and strays away from your very specific example since not the entire world is centered around (you) and the very particular situation (you)'re in at any point in time.>>2015088It is very much understood universally that "bicycle infrastructure" is a ploy by the motorist and attempts to satisfy the demands of motorists. So far all advocates for "bicycle infrastructure" I have encountered turned out to be motorists, even if some would try false flagging (it's another motorist thing) at first.
>>2015998It's a clearance item + coupon. I thought that it might be a good deal, so I asked. Ya moron.
Good single speed ratio for hilly areas?
>>2016164Impossible to give a straight answer. It depends entirely on how strong you are and how "hilly" your hilly are is, and if you also intend to ride flatter sections.If you have access to a geared bike, stick it in one gear and go ride your route. Then do that until you find a gear you're comfortable. Otherwise you're just going to have to buy a selection of different sized sprockets until you find something you like. For reference, I run 42/15 on 622-28 tyres. My area can be considered moderately hilly at most (some would say it's pretty flat), and I don't consider myself a strong rider.
>>2016152Like I said, you don't know what bicycle infrastructure is.
>>2016152Yeah one of the most prolific yimby spammers on this board has admitted he's a motorist, just ask him what his driving mileage was this month and he'll either clam up or call you a "boomer cagetroll"
>>2016073actually I think I found one, but i'll just need to borrow 3k
>>2016163and I'm sure it is a good deal but if it's only an upgrade from BSO wheels, if you have an allez with factory wheels there is no point in replacing them with those things, unless your current wheels have something physically wrong with them. they are going to be adequate, functional wheels. they are not going to be "upgrade wheels".
>>201616448 17 works very well for me in a very hilly area
>>2016175U have a strong point I will mine more bitcoin
>>2016097use whatever solvent you like. the distilled ones work better than water based ones and you have to bake out the water in an oven or all day in direct sun or something. but yeah you can pour those down the sink. you can use gasoline, which most people "dispose of" by burning it in an engine where it produces poisonous carbon monoxide along with greenhouse gasses. letting mineral spirits or kerosene evaporate is a lot more responsible. never heard you can filter it but anon says he does it so that's good, too, I guess
>>2016174what's that on the top tube?
>>2016164>>2016167it also depends on the general performance characteristics of the bike, a nice stiff and aero track bike with a forward saddle position for powerful pedaling, low rolling resistance tires etc can have a slightly higher ratio, also your perception of what counts as hilly will change if you're used to riding heavy shitbikes. around 48/17, 49/17 or equivalent is a good rule of thumb. if your wheels and tires have a significantly different diameter than 700c with 25-28mm tires you can account that for your calculation. crank length makes a slight difference as well.this is 49/17https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RbCzWRnKCaI
>>2016202That's the wall mount.
>>2016174>find bike I like>costs 2 months of rent the fuck is this shit made of gold?
>>2016216>>2016174The bikes in these pictures? They're not mass produced bikes, they're art pieces meant to look nice in addition to being functional machines. Why is custom-made hardwood furniture more expensive than furniture from Ikea that perform the same basic functions equally?
>>2016221>they're art pieces meant to look nice in addition to being functional machines.
>>2016216do you know how much time some guy spent fitting, brazing and cleaning up the coubtless joints on this bike? Guess what that guy wants to eat too.
>>2016216>insist on bike that is esoteric and extremely fancy >w-why is it expensiveretarrrdd
>>2016164I run 48 or 46-18 single speed coaster. I weigh around 210lbs right now and as long as I stand can make it up 10% hills(short) alright. If it was really hilly and you don't mind cruising slower on a single speed run a smaller gear. My mtb single speed is some crazy 39-18 or easier on 26 x1.9 and I can climb up most hills easy.
>>2016174>come home>fuck handlebars>hang on wall>want to leave>take bike from wall>unfuck handlebars>go ride>also always keeping your stem as tigt as it needs to be and as loose as it can beis this how motorists imagine bicycles work?
I want to clean a nasty-ass chain and cassette I've never cleaned during the 12 years I've owned the bike. I don't want to buy any new replacement parts.Do I use a bike-specific degreaser spray and do it like in the video?https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3UXdn0QQ1A8Or can I just use some kind of kitchen surface cleaner for hard grease with a toothbrush?How can I avoid damaging the bearings and other moving parts with either method? Take out the cassette first?
>>201633412 years? do you ride it a lot?
>>2016337A few times a week during the warmer seasons.
>>2016338being ridden that amount and never having been cleaned, i'd put money on the fact that they're worn out and need to be replaced.if you really don't want to do that, just clean it like the video or any one of the hundreds of other videos/write-ups about how to clean your drivetrain. don't overthink it. i don't know of any kitchen or surface cleaners that are that great of degreasers for this application. simple green is OK, diesel is great.
boombers of /bqg/Forever I've been hearing all this:Back when I was your age I too...You won't sustain that mileage for long...You wont be riding those geos for many years...You'll give in and board the motorvehicles...etc.So roughly speaking what age is that age where you need to reduce your mileage, where you need your grips to be above your wheels top edge, where you need to limit your power, where you need to drive a car or get on the bus and train... When? Am I about to hit the wall?!
>>2016340I'll get the dedicated bike spray, then.Main concern, though, is whether it will accidentally damage the hub bearings by seeping in after spraying.
>>2016334I just answered this literally like ten posts ago.>>2016057>>2016097>>2016198once you do a deep clean you can can clean the chain on the bike by using your pic or wd40 as a solvent and just wiping it down without taking it off. then relube (wd40 is NOT lube), wipe the the chain down thoroughly, maybe once again after the first ride.but if you haven't cleaned the chain in fucking 12 years, pretty sure you need to replace it. regular chains are like $15 . you can buy chain stretch checkers, they're pretty cheap. that'll help you in the future because the dirty, stretched chain wears out your gear teeth. there's a good chance those are blown, too. if so, a new chain is just going to skip on all those gears and you gotta replace the gears, too.if everything's fucked, there's no point in cleaning the chain. just run what you've got until you have new gears and chain in hand and switch them all at once.
>>2016344a good way to keep from making a big mess in general, but also with regards to your bearing worries, is to floss your cassette with a rag. you could lightly spray your cassette, or just spray the rag a little, and floss like pic related. that way degreaser mixed with cassette gunk doesn't just drip everywhere. or you can spray a bit, brush to loosen stuff, and then floss to clean it/soak it up. just try some stuff out, you won't hurt anything unless you go total retard mode.
>>2016349Thanks, I'll try the rag floss.
>>2016349Also, what do you think about "all-purpose" bike cleaner sprays that can go on any bike surface, including the chain and cassette, like pic related?
>>2016351i can't speak for everything of course, but i find that there are a lot of those types of cleaners that work OK. But if the drivetrain is seriously filthy, you'll need a stronger solvent or something.
>>2016341I'm 50 and still no car, for whatever that's worth. never been a high milage guy, mostly transportation but I can do 30 miles without thinking about it or preparing for it . bars are a little lower than saddle on my daily, quite a bit lower on the fast bike
>>2016354thanks so it seems likely those who talk like that are just deluded and have always been unfit.
>>2016341when your body tells you to.
>>2016351I've never used anything like that. solvents for grease and grime, household cleaners and soapy water for frame and stuff, car wax to shine and protect the paint.
>>2016356iunno the impact of this, but I grew up doing rides that a kid would consider long with my mom, probably just a few miles but still. and I started commuting to school as a teen before and during my growth spurt, so I think my body developed to cycling to at least some extent.the impact of that vis-a-vis my current situation is anybody's guess, assuming there was any impact to start with. but yeah those things happened.
Say I have a frame that I might like to powdercoat some day. If I spray some kind of rust guard in the tubes, will that be a problem when I decide to paint it? Fumes coming out when it's in the oven? I'm guessing once that gunk is in there, it's in.
>>2016351You don't need supposed elbow grease replacements. For most jobs a rag will do just fine. Sometimes you may need some soapy water too. Rarely an actual solvent, petrol works very well in that case.The product shown probably wont hurt anything either.
>>2016369It's a PITA to get out and for the most part needs to come out before any painting let alone oven curing can be done. But you can get it out.That being said: Your frame is unlikely to disintegrate within a few years.
are cheap dumb indoor trainers loud? I live in an apartment so I'm concerned about noise.
>>2016379rollers can be rather quiet but you may be surprised how loud a bicycle itself can bethe funny brakes you get, like hydrodynamic, magnetic and what not can be very very noisyafter all you're looking to, on average, dissipate 300 W of power and while they're pretty good at converting most to heat some is bound to end up as noise.Consider just riding your bike or moving further away from work if your commute is too short?Also trad rollers.
>>2016351I just use lemon furniture polish for dust and Dawn Power Wash for anything caked or greasy. I hot wax my chains, and degrease them periodically, but usually just wipe down and apply a solvent wax between dunks. I keep a can of disc brake cleaner handy, too, but it's rare to need anything so aggressive. No need to spend extra on specialist bicycle cleaners.
>>2014872Total bike newfag here. How do I attach this to my rack? I assume I need some kind of adapter? Searched online for "Lezyne Mini Drive 400XL Rack Adapter" but couldnt find anything
>>2016419you're supposed to have a strap that attaches to the red hooks with your light. try to find a way to strap it to your rack
continental contact urban 29x2.5 or schwalbe g-one speed 29x2.35 for mostly-paved loaded touring on rigid mtb with wide rims?
>>2016419Like >>2016423 shows, that thing is designed to to be attached to your seat post, not your rack. If you necessarily have to attach it to the rack you're gonna have to kludge something together.
>>2016419>Lezyne Mini Drive 400XLThis is a front (white) light. Mounting this to a rear rack is a stupid idea. There are light mounts that will mount to that little tab at the back, but they're going to be for whatever specific mount. I know Trek makes them for their lights. You could ziptie a PVC tube to the back of your rack and mount the light there.
>>2016391I want to dial in my bike so I thought that a cheap wheel-on trainer that holds the bike still would be helpful. If the noise is intolerable, like a loud vacuum cleaner, I may have to scrap the idea.
>>2016446No, it came with both a front white light and a rear red light (which is what I was holding in the pic)
>>2016435Whatever is cheaper but just googling, the contact urban has lower rr and good/similar picture protection so id pick that. But they're fairly similar so it won't be too different one way or the other, don't pull any hairs over it.Bicycle rolling resistance dot com is a good resource for tirea, but don't trust it as the end all be all
>>2016316It's not that unreasonable. I'd do it for secondary bikes in an apartment.
>>2016462Use a pedal mount. No fucking around with the stem.
>>2016419That's the back of it facing the camera right? It's designed to go on a seatpost, but you can just put it flat against that tab on the back of the rack, and hold it on there like normal with the rubber band. It may help to cut a strip of rubber inner tube or put some duct tape or something to increase the friction there. By using some sort of shim (rubber, tape, etc) you might also attach it to a tube of your rack. I don't see why this is confusing to you. It's just basic common sense
>>2016465that doesn't look as good though and in a tight hallway they're still protruding from the wall Rotating a stem takes less than 30 seconds. If you wanted to really optimize it you could lock off your headset with a clamping collar below the stem and then not even ever need to futz with the preload adjustment.
>>2016470>that doesn't look as good thoughYou're right, it looks better instead of having what looks like a fucked up/broken bike slapped on the wall as some center piece instead of being useful.
>>2016476i've seen the rotated bars at some pretty nice bike shops even you're seething about nothing
best way to repair torn spandex? My current cycling shorts are getting pretty worn out, and I realized I have an older pair that I crashed in, ripped the side of it pretty bad which is why I stopped wearing them but they're much newer than my current shorts I wear. I'm a cheap fuck so I'd rather just fix the old pair if possible rather than getting a new one since they're kind of pricey ($80 for the same ones I got now which are super comfy). I know there's things like iron on patches but those seem to be more for cotton clothing, and because it's spandex I'd prefer to patch it with something that can stretch but the only other solutions I see are neoprene patches for diving suits.
>>2016478You think those bikes in those nice bike shops get ridden often? Or they stay on the wall until they get sold?
>>2016480some people also own bikes that don't get ridden oftenshocking to imagine huh rotating the bars to store them efficiently doesn't make them look stupid or broken enough with this nonsense
>>2016479find some scrap lycra, cut a patch, sew it on with zig zag stich. basically the same as patching anything else. If you don't have access to a sewing machine then you're not really able to patch clothing.
>>2016486I actually have a serger, but it has just collected dust in my attic for a while now but it's a baby lock. Maybe it's time to take it out and learn how to use it
>>2016487Yeah man patching clothing is great Iunno about lycra specifically but my advice for patches in general is go insane over them go back and forth all over tonnes of times and then they'll hold up, don't just go around the edge once.
>>2016483>rotating the bars to store them efficiently doesn't make them look stupid or brokenIt does, but the main point is you are changing your tune from a storage solution, aka not ridden often, from the initial point that>durr just straighten your handlebars every day when you ride itPlease, fuck off your taste and everyone else who likes that 'storage' method is shit.
>>2016486>If you don't have access to a sewing machine then you're not really able to patch clothing.>she doesn't hand sewlol, lmao, rofl
>>2016487>>2016488You should use strings that are also made from stretchy materials. Otherwise, the stitching can pop out when the lycra patch stretches while wearing.
>>2016506I do hand sew. It's shit for patches for the reason that i already mentioned.
>>2016448The front light is the 400XL. The rear light is a KTV Drive.Not that it matters anyway; I'm not aware of anyone making mounting adapters for Lezyne lights.
https://dragbicycles.com/bike/volta-te15/Is this a good first road bike? Doesn't seem to have any proprietary parts.
Is this 2017 fuji cross S/M bike too small for 5'9 32'' or (176/84cm) guy? I could get it for 600€.Charts say S/M is for 171-179 riders, but 535 top tube and 90mm seems off.
>>2016447I think a bicycle, even on rollers, can compete with many vacuum cleaners.I believe it should be possible to run vacuum cleaners, even in town type apartment building things. Maybe not ad midnight idk.Once you start looking you'll see all kinds of problems that were never there. Imo it's still best to get rollers. Least noise, really useful if you want to hone your sense for bike balance and smooth out your high cadence spinning and if its still not steady enough for super 'tistic analysis of angles, lines and other geometry you can run rollers with a fixed front or entirely fixed bike.In case its not obvious: Traditional rollers offer constant and marginal drag, no real resistance.
>>2016572I would like to addrollers:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EGVrTZgdlQ4fluid:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XgvZp5u6LyUit remains difficult of course to get a perception of noise across through a video. Neither recording nor replaying device is calibrated in any way.It also makes alot of difference what kind of bike youre riding and I think it eould be most important to decouple the source from the structure of the building. So place a rug or yoga mat or whatever under bike and trainer.It will never be silent. And like I said, bikes themselves are often way noisier than people think.
>>2016527rim brakes and quick releases at that price point are interesting choices. 52/36 chainset with an 11-28 cassette doesn't get to a low enough gear for where I live but might be fine for you and can definitely go fast. Tire clearance only goes up to 28 instead of the 32s I'd personally want to run, but 28s are fine. Those are the only real nitpicks I've got; aluminum frame with carbon fork is solid. 105 is a great groupset.
https://www.sportson.se/produkt/kebne-v414800how's this bike? following stats translated from swedishNUMBER OF GEARS16REAR GEARShimano® Alivio®BREAKSShimano BR-MT200®TIRESSpectra Unda Duramax reflex 60TPI 37-622TIRE DIMENSION37-622FRONT GEARShimano® TY710-2®FORKAluminium/High-Tensile stålWHEEL SIE28CASETTEShimano® HG-31-8, 11-34CHAINShimano® HG-40PEDALSSpectra, sport med antislipFRAMEHydroshaped pipes with integrated cables (?)FRAME MATERIALAluminiumSEATTEC Obvius 177SEAT POLE (?)TEC Aluminium 27,2x350mmFENDERSSKS Bluemels Primus 46mmHANDLEBARSTEC Risebar Aluminium 640mmHANDLEBAR POLE (?)Aluminium ahead 28,6/31,8mm, justerbar 90-150°, längd 105mmCRANKSETShimano® TY-501® 46x30 170 mmSHIFTERS (?)Shimano® STEF505®price approximately 1k euros
>>2016588That's an extremely different type of bike, alivio is significantly worse than 105 (it's equivalent to, what, Sora iirc?)What do you want to use the bike for? A commuter? Going fast? Light touring?
>>2016588>Shimano TY-###>TY>meaning TourneyNope
>>2016590Different? From what? I'm kind of /n/ew to bike specs. I want a bike mainly for commuting and utility (kickstand, luggage carrier so i can use my panniers for grocery shopping), but I also want it to be fast/easy to ride and to not break if i decide to bike on a forest path or something (doesn't have to be efficient offroad). a thousand yuro is about my upper price limit>>2016596how so?
>>2016599also it being fast/efficient is partly to make commuting more casual and to extend the range I can go, like if I want to bike to my friend on the other side of town or somethingI don't exactly have super high standards, my two reference bikes are old and rusty
>>2016584Granted I'm not that well informed about cycling but from what I understand it's a decent combo. Rim brakes are fine, lighter and easier to setup, cheaper to source parts for, no oil to source and bleed. QR is easier to source than thru axle, if the thread on the fork gets damaged it's a harsh repair. The rest I agree with, those high gears are gonna ruin me at first but hopefully I grow into that.
Can someone from the NYC area redpill me on this brand? I ride past the shop often, I see the bikes everywhere, but I don't understand how they got so popular. As far as I can tell, and my apologies to Señor Montecci if this is wrong, but it looks like these are plain vanilla open mold frames and wheels, no doubt decent quality, but they're not particularly cheap, and they don't seem to offer any unique angle or value proposition. Plus the names are weird as fuck. "Vegter"?I'm too autistic to stop by the shop or try to stop and grill one of the owners so I'll ask 4chan. Do you get a hand job when you buy one? Do you get a free bike fit? Am I misunderstanding what you get for what they cost?
>>2016642I don't mean that exact build obviously, I mean their in house wheels. Although while we're at it someone please redpill me on Princeton Carbon Works too, I don't get it.
fell for that stupid blue chain cleaner tool thing, like it works but I dont feel its doing a lot, should I just get an ultrasound cleaner
>>2016643they are literally aliexpress chink wheels I believe, I have seen them a couple of times on my feed.
>>2016650Who, Princeton, or Montecci? I was under the impression Montecci was basically rebranded Winspace, so it would seem logical to think the wheels are also Winspace. Do you know for a fact that they aren't Winspace, or are you saying Winspace is aliexpress junk?
>>2016649just clean it by hand, you don't need a meme device to clean a chain. just get a pan fill it with degreaser, soak your chain in it a few minutes and scrub the gunk off with a scrubbing brush, rinse in some water, hit it against some cardboard or something to remove the excess water and dry, that's what I do and it's never failed me. You're never gonna get a good clean when it's on your bike unless it's already mostly clean anyways, besides you want to clean the gunk off your chainring and cassette and the pulleys too or else whatever gunk was on there is just gonna dirty the chain again when you put it back on.
>>2016652princeton is aliexpress stuff, these days I wont believe anything not coming from china and being a white label rebrand, do your proper research but this feels like those fixed gear aventon bikes that were all over the place and then they switched to selling electric bikes, as expected then full aventon bikes showed up on ali as they probably were left with all that stock that the the company at california no longer needed due to jumping to a different market.
>>2016649>fell for that stupid blue chain cleaner tool thingI did too. I've used it once, years ago.Normally I just wipe off the worst of the grime with a rag. By the time I feel the chain could use a proper deep cleaning it's always time to replace the chain anyway.
>>2016529Get the smaller frame and a longer stem. I'm stuck with the bigger size frame with an 80mm stem and 5cm of steerer spacers.
>>2016599Get something used from a bike shop that has fenders and a rack with 36mm or larger tires and no components worse than Sora/Alivio but used at that price should get you Tiagra/Deore or better.
>>2016642You see frames out of this mold almost everywhere. Every fuckwit comes up with 'a label' slaps paint and components on that shit and fags buy it.I know someone who has something similar, might actually be from the same molds. It's the guys 'Tri bike' and has a suspicious chip or crack in the top tube. Doesn't surprise me at all. What the guy put together is unrideable on tri bars. Must be scary af descending. Idk why people are lile this. He'd be better of showing up to triathlon events on a good ally bike with drops.
>>2016787Yeah that's what I don't get. I know it's not cheap to run a brick and mortar business in a neighborhood where the median home price is $2 million, but if you're charging $3000 for a frameset I'm going to ask questions. And it's not like the guys riding these things are fat old clueless freds, they look like they could be pros or at least very serious amateurs. Maybe I answered my own question, maybe those are team bikes from a sponsored local team?
>>2016684The site says they're made in taiwan. After doing more reading on these things I suspect they're ok as wheels go, highly doubt they're garbage, and I don't think they're a rebrand, but the prices are "not competitive" to put it gently, might have been a different scene 15 years ago when they came out though, I can't say as I wasn't in the market for carbon wheels 15 years agoI wondered what happened to the aventon fixies, they were everywhere and then suddenly they were nowhere
>>2016527>https://dragbicycles.com/bike/volta-te15/Looks fine, Frame sizes are not that big, so if you are over 6'3 or something like 195cm+ you might need a LONG stem or setback seatpost.Geometry is pretty chill, so it probably rides fine and is not track geo.Gearing is fine for most instances unless you are exceptionally weak or live in hill country(only).Luckily all the parts are older standards that are still popular.>>2016529It's fine. I am 5'11 and prefer a 56cm tt and 100mm stem for modern bikes.A 54(535mm) may just require a longer stem for you, as the other anon says just make sure you are fine with the stack/headtube length.If you have enough of that or don't mind running a angled up stem you will be fine.personally I can fit a road bike from a 54 to a 58 or larger since I like long bikes with higher stack/headtube. >>2016599used is the best bang for your buck. With your knowledge go to your local bike shop to get recommendations.Road bikes with a good tire pressure are all fast/efficient. Leagues above a mountain bike.
How hard is it to change a krypton tire
>>2016789no its clueless guys who may have a few years of competitive cycling under their belt sure but I mean everyone in cycling has or had at some pointbut that doesn't mean they understand what the bicycle industry works likethey'll fall for 'locally made artisanal bike' and probably don't understand the implication of the frame being carbon and born in a mold
autumn is around the corner and I've got an idea: get off pavement, go innawoods>cheap decathlon wheelshttps://www.decathlon.co.uk/p/road-bike-disc-brake-front-wheel-520/_/R-p-335950https://www.decathlon.co.uk/p/road-bike-disc-brake-rear-wheel-520/_/R-p-335915>tufo thundero 36C tyresand make it tubelessI can't fit anything wider in my triban frame and I don't want to buy another bike. Will this actually be fun? Aren't these wheels too narrow for such tyres? These wheels are cheap and they could be my winter wheels, as previous set went to the scrapyard.
>>2016818>wheels too narrowI have an older cx bike with 13 or 15mm internal running 33's and it's fine. I have old mtb's with 19mm internal running 2.25in or 55cm+ tires.All that happens is you need enough pressure in them. I don't like rim dents so that's easy enough.IDK if it will be what you want What terrain do you have near you? This matters more then you think and you might want to ride your bike to some local trails+hike, or just explore around you.For gravel, or smoothish single track it will be fun, anything over a green it will be challenging but still fun, so a blue mtb trail will be hard.
>>2016815>I alone have access to youtube, I alone google thingsI've been wrong about a lot of things in life but I lean more towards the assumption that the kind of person who is up every morning at the crack of dawn to grind out intervals all year round probably has what passes for an above average knowledge of what's available, certainly an above average reason to spend a couple hours reading up before spending $5000+ and tens of thousands of hours with the $5000+ object in question wedged in their ass. Otherwise they would just go to Strictly or R&A, which have much better local reach and offer a much better variety of products, and go the conventional route.I'm also pretty sure there's a reason that wouldn't resonate with me, maybe the owner is just really charming and cool, maybe these guys have a personal vendetta against Strictly but still wanted something available on the other side of the bridge. Maybe they're getting paid for it because they all do look really hard core. But whatever the reason, "they thought it was a locally made artisanal bike" doesn't sound like it.
>>2016820For the record, 2.25” on 19mm rim is not a recommended combination by any manufacturer. But yeah, there’s a ridiculous amount of wiggle room in the real world
>>2016823The idea is that they’re looking at $8000 bikes and this $6000 bikes claims similar performance and an unknown brand name, despite everybody knowing you can literally max out all known performance features with a $5000 bike
>>2016820>What terrain do you have near you?I want to visit some of grade1 to grade3 roads as seen on https://wiki.openstreetmap.org/wiki/Key:tracktypeAnd some cobbled roads that put paris-roubaix to shame. My normal 28mm wheels are off limits there.I want to go tubeless because I'm worried about punctures. Changing the innertube when it's dark and cold isn't enjoyable, been there done that, but on my road combo it can be done in ~10 minutes.Previous decathlon wheels were known for being a pain in the ass to put tyres on, I hope these are better.
>>2016824 It's my favorite xc racing setup back a decade ago. Fast, great grip in the dusty,dry conditions I live in. Even the tire profile is great(for me).>>2016827Yeah your setup will be fine.I would say a 35mm tire would be optimal even for that terrain, as long as you take it easy on fast and loose gravel descents. Tubeless is of course great for stopping punctures but it's even better for off road where you can run lower pressures too which are the real game changer for grip/confidence if thats a big deal for ya.
>>2016797part of the problem with a used bike is 1) sourcing the bike and 2) inspecting the bike for various flaws and such, sure there's probably plenty of bikes I would be perfectly happy with within 10 kilometers of my home, but going by ads it's a pain in the ass to see 10 different bikes wheras in a bike shop i can just walk in and come into contact with 100 bikes>>2016763man, I appreciate the advice but if I could tell component brands from each other I probably wouldn't need to ask /n/ "LOL IS THIS BIKE GUD". thanks for the deck size tip though.i'll probably just ask a lokal bike shop owned by some old cyclist though
no bike buying thread up so i'll ask here: between these two bianchis, both €1400, which would be a better buy? the gravelbike has hydro disks and wide tires, which is probably better for the local roads, but the road bike has a full carbon frame and 105 groupset.
>>2016847If you have to ask, the gravel bike. The only use case where I'd say you should even consider the legacy brake bike is if you have a fair amount of experience on old style tires, you know for a fact you like those kinds of tires, and you intend to weight weenie it up with some chinese wheels and other components
>>2016850>legacy brakes>old style tiresthe fuck are you talking about tard... it has 32mm clearanceyou can't even get road tires wider than that. >>2016847side by side the preformance of the road bike will be far superior. If you're young/fit/strong and want to go fast get that. If you specifically have gravel routes to ride, want it as a fendered/racked commuter, or intend to tour on it, get the gravel bike. If you're just a casual, get something cheaper.
>>2016847Road bike if you are young and want to go fast on normal roads.Gravel bike if you are old/live in a place with 3rd world roads.Only you know where you live and know your local terrain.Here I ride 23c/mm tires on smooth bike trails
>>2016852You sure about that? This seems to be the bikehttps://www.bianchi.com/store/int_EN/yrbr3-sprint-105-11sp-6.htmlAnd they say 28mm max, usually when they say that the 28mm is a tight squeeze. And the brakes are thesehttps://productinfo.shimano.com/en/product/BR-R561which are 28mm max per shimano, which in my experience means you're going to have to be really picky with your tires to avoid rubbing>you can't even get road tires wider than that. Ok but we're comparing a gravel bike to a road bike so....?>side by side the preformance of the road bike will be far superiorI would put it more like "the road bike will feel faster" because of the harsher ride (there's only so much carbon can do to make up for 28mm tires at high PSI), yeah it has 7mm lower stack (I just assumed 53cm because that's my frame size) but let's get real here op is not going to slam the stem on either of these things, the reach is much less on the gravel bike which means he'll get tired less quickly if he's not in pro-tier condition which means he'll have more energy for riding as he's wasting less on maintaining the aero position and trying to brace against road chatterdon't get me wrong I like retrogrouchery as much as the next guy but the quality of life difference between these two bikes is night and day, if you're not trying to impress anyone with what a hardman badass you are, get the gravel bike, you can always throw some 45mm crabon rims on there if you gottagofast
Since the days are getting shorter again, I want to get proper lights. But the catch is, that unlike 10 years ago, almost all lights have integrated batteries, which I hate. Funnily enough there seems to be quite a few ebike- and scooter-lights on the market. Did anyone here fuck around with them and double- or tripple-A-batteries?Looking at the datasheet of a bosch&muller mu, the e-bike version needs 5-15V of DC input-voltage, which could be delivered with 2x3.7 Li-ion batteries.
>>2016823You're definately confusing something here. At no point did anyone claim the guy on the obscure, niche boutique bike had little information about availability. The opposite is self evident. The guy on a www.c12.hu or on a bike from any of the other identical builders clearly has made an effort bordering on compulsive behaviour to find a possibly niche bike. The point is: The guy in the example doesn't understand what makes a bicycle a good bike and what it is worth and falls for memes like boutique, flashy paintjob, hand 'made', 'local' and what not. What he gets is a decent frame, comparable to a trek from 5 years ago or something and whatever groupset and components someone used to assemble the whole lot. The result may or may not be a well rounded bike. The lower bounds of the price can simply be derived by adding up the price of the group, components, a comparable frame, paint job and the work that goes into assembly.There's no problem with that. But it might be common for the customer to pay a huge markup and be delusional about the value of the bike.
>>2016852fitting 32mm in road rim brake calipers is highly questionable, maybe if you deflate the tire before inserting the wheel
>>2016881there are chinese lights that use standard flashlight/vape batteries
Ever since switching my puncture kings from tubeless to tubed, they've been miserable. I like how they feel and ride, so what's and equivalent that won't puncture every time I ride?
>>2017141>I like how they feel and ride, so what's and equivalent that won't puncture every time I ride?Are you riding through a glass recycling plant perhaps? How the fuck are you getting a puncture so often?
>>2017142It's a combination of my wheels being shit (nipples protruding, spokes too tight and poking through) and the tire, but your guess is as good as mine. Even on a set of good wheels when I just got the tires I got two punctures on my first ride out. I have NEVER had punctures like this with any other tire, even TT tires. This is with a regular schwalbe tubes and tpu tubes.
>>2017141tpu/latex tubes
>>2017147doesn't help, i find i get more punctures with tpu tubes honestly.
>>2017143Ideally you'd use these if they existed lmao. I can only imagine they are noisy as hell, which is their main limitation for other higher speed applications
>>2017157probably just going to get gp5ks again, never had this problem with those.
>>2017157The main limitation is that they are fucking trash, offer next to zero tread deformation performance (literally THE main metric of tire performance since they were invented), are heavy, not adjustable (a big issue when riders vary in weight), not backwards-compatible to the stone age, and expensive. And why do you get in return? Ooh you can run over as many nine inch nails as you want, whoopee. I’ll take the tire that’s better in literally every conceivable scenario, the thing that’s literally keeping me alive during a ride, and change a tube every now and then if I detour over some retarded routeAirless tires belong on the moon, and maybe the bottom of the ocean, and that’s it
