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File: no fats.jpg (77 KB, 1170x484)
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"No fatties allowed" edition

Pretty asian girls sweating edition

Resources:
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/
https://www.parktool.com/en-us/blog/repair-help
RJ the bike guy on youtube

Previous: >>2016856
>>
Now that is a comfy design. Who needs 2 stiff seatstays when you can have one missing!
Now just put a lefty for on it.
>>
Any femanons here? I know this sounds like a shitpost but I really mean it: why do heavy women love handlebar bags? 9 times out of 10, when I see a handlebar bag, it's a woman on a moderately priced ($2500-3500) non-performance-oriented bicycle, where she could be the model for an editorial headlined "Is Cycling Healthist?"

I get the need to carry stuff, I carry stuff too sometimes, but. There is obviously something at work here and I aim to get to the bottom of it. Why not frame bags? Or seatpost bags, or panniers? Not saying I never see lady cyclists with those, but those are more gender neutral. Whereas handlebar bags? Always a thick woman. Ok not always but 90% of the time. And when it's a man he's also kind of heavy, with a cope beard to make his chin look more manly. And regardless they have a medical condition where their body is incapable of producing melanosomes. Anyway it is rarely a man though. I've noticed this. What's going on here?
>>
reposting in new thread
Is there a single decent site where I can sort various bikes in particular categories by weight?
>>
>>2018924
No, because the data isn't reliable enough.
Many mfg don't list weights, and the weights can fluctuate depending on the size weighed, component changes between model years, and whether a bike is weighed with pedals, reflectors & bottle cages, etc, or not, where some mfg will cheat on weights and weigh something at it's absolute minimium and others will just weigh the bike as it's for sale.
The same issue with frame weight, are you weighing the headset, etc.

Weight weenieism happens at a micro level. You're looking for lightweight components and to optimize weight by making specific changes or looking to buy a bike with specific spec. To that end, weightweenies.starbike.com has extensive data about component weights.

What you want really doesn't make any sense, and is an age old frustration of bicycle companies and shops where they often say to weigh bikes in person to compare if you really must, which you could do, just visit a shop with some scales.
>>
>>2018910
I am a man and i have a handlebar bag

handlebar bags seem less like specific technical gear that's in a wierd bike-moulded shape and more like a normal bag that also happens to attach to your bike, so maybe they're more approachable to casuals. They're easier to access while riding and you worry less about your stuff because you can see it, and maybe women also are more familiar with the notion of buying an expensive small bag.
Men are also maybe more likely to ride in a faux-aero bar position and therefor not want a cluttered cockpit
>>
>>2018910
Also, handlebar bags tend to be cottage industry stuff, whereas framebags and saddlebags are more readily available mass produced at a lower price point and with less twee appeal.
>>
>>2018927
yeah that makes sense
I really wanted to know how close you could get an emtb in a certain price range to my older bike in a much lower price range
>>
>>2018924
If you see a bike site sorting by weight you can take it about as seriously as "bicycle blue book"
>>
What's a decently priced tubular tire to get (23-25mm)? Preferably with some light treads. I looked around locally and most of them are kinda expensive (continental alligators).

Are the Continental Giro's (28"x22"mm) any good for everyday use/long rides (concrete/asphalt roads)? These are in my price range but I'm willing to go lower.

I recently bought a classic steel road bike and this is my first time with a tubular. They currently have veloflex tires on them which are almost brand new but I want to get a new pair just in case of a flat or when I need to finally replace them.
>>
>>2018939
just get new wheels that aren't stupid, you might spend $250 for an entry level set. probably can find a nice used set since everything is thru axle disc brake now
>>
>>2018939
I don't know but bikeforums.net's classic+vintage section has a sticky about modern tubular tires. I would go there.
I know veloflex are some of the best, so you should be fine for a while. sew-ups are expensive since there is a very low demand. I would suspect simple cheaper tires to be around 40 usd, with nice ones being close to 100, and baller race ones even more.
>>
>>2018939
>Preferably with some light tread

not something you should look for in a road tire.
high end road slicks, like vittoria corsa, conti gp5k, or most models of tubs, with practically no tread pattern, have WAY better grip, on and offroad, than any treaded hybrid tire in the same size. This is as they use expensive grippy rubber compounds and are actually designed to be pushed in corners.

I agree you should get a clincher wheelset instead.
Trying to buy low-cost (still not cheap) semi-durable tubs is particuraly ridiculous, as tubs exist to achieve god tier ride quality and coolness . Unless you're prepared to minmax on a cafe bike they make next to no sense. Points into durability or value defeat the purpose of tubs.

Good news is that any bike you bought that has tubs is gonna be quite nice and worth modifying to be more practical.
I don't suggest you buy an entry level set of newish wheels. Black wheels ruin most classic bikes. You should try buy an older set with silver spokes. Sourcing good condition used wheels is very tricky as most people have no concept of brake track or bearing wear and are not transperant at all about condition. Contrary to popular belief, fucked nice wheels are worthless.
>>
>>2018940
>don't bother with obscure antique wheels
>instead buy used antique wheels since they're antiques and obscure
why though, you're just buying yourself a few extra years before non-toobless become specialty niche products sought after by hipsters and no one else. we're basically there already
>>
>>2018961
bait
>>
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>trying to buy a front cantilever brake cable hanger for an 1" threaded fork
>very few models available
>it's either $80 handmade bling or used ones harvested from old bikes
>look on Ali to see if chinks have them
>they're also all randoms harvested from old bikes
>hardly any of them have the lock tab that prevents it from getting out of sync with the handlebar position
>the cheapest one is like $30 shipped

How the fuck is this thing so expensive?
>>
>>2019024
Retrougrouches will rant and rave about tryhard buyfags who insist on having the latest whizbang tech from the STORE (ugh!) and then spend 4000 hours sourcing some obscure part for their bike that hasn't been made in 65 years and that's totally fine because ?????
>>
>>2019024
one of these?
https://velo-orange.com/collections/brake-parts/products/clamp-on-cable-stops

https://velo-orange.com/collections/brake-parts/products/vo-front-cable-stop-with-ajuster?variant=50642914631
>>
>>2019024
bike co-op, harvest from a junk bike yourself, or you could even try making one. These are common as piss although most made to hang off the headset will be older since in the mtb canti era the cable usually hung off the stem.

Just searched "center pull brake hanger" on ebay and found a listing that begins "X2 VINTAGE BIKE BICYCLE CENTER PULL BRAKE CABLE HANGER" for $9 shipped, I mean yeah that's still a lot but...

>>201902
desist with this ceaseless bait scoundrel
>>
>>2019024
If you have a normal caliper brake mount I used the origin 8 one. Still like 20 bucks but it works good
>>
>>2019024
I feel your pain, i looked forever for the perfect one, it doesn't exist.
You want silver right?
The black ones are fairly ubiquitous. Tektro is the std and i can see a number of options for ~$5 to buy them new, with barrel adjusters. But they're black.

The lock tab is not something you should be looking for. Actually locking tabs on headsets are ALL bad and should be filed off. Spacers in threaded headset stacks don't move, the locknut holds them down tightly. It's easier to adjust them with 2 wrenches and no tab. All the tab does is risk damaging the threads of the fork when forcing a seized system.

I would also suggest you avoid hangers that look like the one in your pic. They tend to visibly flex which degrades braking.

>>they're also all randoms harvested from old bikes
Every grungey bike shop will have them. I specifically harvest them, and other spacers, from scrap bikes. That's the right way to buy them. Just avoid the diatech style ones which are radiused for a fucky wierd preload system.

Sounds like you want a really fancy one for cheap, you are actually drawn to the Nitto AS-11 or the Paul funky monkey. Eventually if your bike is perfect and you love it then just spend the money. That, or if you don't need ease of dissasembly for touring, and your fit is dialed in, get a stem with a roller or that's drilled. Those look way cooler than the headset stops.
>>
>>2019026
>retrodouches put effort and time into their bikes
what is the problem here?
you also do that, except your efforts are focused into seething and shitposting online
>>
>>2019031
>>2019030
I don't live in the U.S., so the total cost including tariffs and shipping becomes quite high.

>>2019044
I'd rather have a stem with integrated cable hanger but those are even harder to find. I might just have to go bother the people at the hipster bike shop downtown and be mentally prepared to say no and leave if the ones they have are like Paul Components jewelries. Thanks for not letting me buy the shitty one with the tab.
>>
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How fucked am I trying to get this working again?
Needs new brakes, gear/chainset, and I'd like to put 27.5" wheels on.
>>
>>2019057
That's a relatively ordinary frame, does it even have a derailer hanger?
It's not worth doing a custom build with new/modern parts. If you're gonna sink several hundred, find something nicer (lighter).

The paint like most peugeots is quite charming and so it is worth fixing up, with the original parts, or, with parts bin old stuff.

new chain, brake pads, cables, grips, that makes sense.
Despite what you say, the drivetrain and brakes are probably useable if you just clean / grease them.
>>
>>2019053
>hanks for not letting me buy the shitty one with the tab

you can just file the tab off, it takes like 30 seconds.
Also mtb quill stems with canti stops/rollers are incredibly common.
>>
>>2019060
yup. Most mtb's pre 2000's had them. My 87 fisher hoo koo e koo has one in the stem.
Some suspension forks had them built in which is cool.
>>2019057
That's a peugeot mtb/atb. Decent bike. Watch rj the bike guy+park tool videos, read sheldon browns website and learn+do.
That would take me a couple hours to get good to go.... if I had the parts and front wheel.
>>
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>>2019058
Not sure what a derailer hanger is, but i can check when i pick it up.
This was my bike when i was high school age (2012), but i left it at my parent's house when i moved out and it's been outside in the weather for several years.
I want to get it back into good working order.
The rear brake is gone, i removed it many years ago because it wasn't working right. The chain is so rusty I'm going to have to cut it off.
I don't mind sinking money into it to make some improvements where possible.
I'm thinking about stripping the frame and having it powder coated to get all the rust knocked out and have a nice clean slate to work with.

>>2019062
Thanks for the recs. I have the front wheel too, it's got Araya 26x1.75 rims. Not sure if those were factory or upgrades, but I'm researching if it's possible to go up to 27.5
>>
>>2019075
>I'm thinking about stripping the frame and having it powder coated to get all the rust knocked out and have a nice clean slate to work with.
literally the best part of that bike is the peugeot graphics

paying $100+ to have it stripped and repainted is RETARDED, you would be making it worse.
It's never worth repainting low spec frames.
>>
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>>2019078
Aren't they just decals? I can have more of them made.
I'm mostly concerned that there could be rust in places that might need to be treated before it becomes a problem, and what better time than right before it gets rebuilt?
But if i was an expert, I wouldn't be here asking for opinions.
>>
>>2019049
I walk into a bike shop and ask for a 11 speed chain and they give it to me and I pay a reasonable price. then I go home and shitpost online. you spend the whole time online because nobody sells your weird hipster shit, and most of that time is seething about the jews and the trannies taking "it" (whatever that means) away from you. that's the difference between you and I.
>>
>>2019084
>most of that time is seething about the jews and the trannies taking "it" (whatever that means) away from you.
lol when did he say anything remotely like that?
>>
>>2019086
You know how these people are. Everything is a shadowy conspiracy by some minority group. It's a different one every month. Might be "the pajeets" now, hard to keep up.
>>
>>2019087
iunno, I assumed that retrogrouches skewed left but I guess I don't really know
>>
>>2019084
>>2019087
the schizo is going off again
>>
>>2019087
The pajeets are paid shills who influence internet discourse usually in support of Russia. This has been proven on /k/.

Other than ancient boomer forums, anything even remotely mainstream is influenced by shills both paid and unpaid, and increasingly bots shill posting as well. Your head is in the sand if you haven't noticed it yet, and it's not a political statement to notice. You don't have to be left or right to eventually notice that someone posting total bullshit in broken English is from Mumbai.
>>
>>2019078
Depends on what's considered 'worth it'. If he has an attachment to that bike, that changes the rulebook.
Economically, no it's not worth it. He should just live with the rust and scratches.
>>
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is my new carbon seatpost toast already @,@ i used carbon paste, torque wrench and everything
>>
>fatty that wants to get into biking to expand my cardio activities outside of just walking around
>scared of riding in the city and feeling exposed close proximity to cars
How did you get rid of this feel, I know I can just go bike on trails but I'm in seattle and want to experience it the proper way
>>
>>2019096
Sorry that happened or I'm happy for you bro

>>2019101
The zig zag scratch looks like it was just some shit that was stuck in the clamp but the notch thing doesn't look good, what's going on there?

>>2019103
Ride in areas where there are a lot of people on bikes, look at the age 50+ cyclists riding utility bikes and observe how they maneuver, whatever they're doing, they're probably doing it right
>>
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>>2019105
looks pretty fucked m8 big time
>>
>>2019112
how weak must you be to try and build a bike out of fucking plastic because it's 0.4g lighter than aluminum. The chink industrialists must be roflmao at these halfwit western consoomer bot cretins
>>
>>2019133
i bought it because carbon fibre sounds cool
>>
>>2019103
after a while it goes away
>>
>>2019133
Seatpost out of carbon makes perfect sense you fool
>>
>>2019133
nta but it's more about the flex, sorry you can't afford nice things, must be those pesky indians again, or is it trannies this time?
>>
>>2018905
>Pretty asian girls sweating edition
then why aren't you posting any?
>>2018910
i don't use any kind of bike bags because i'm afraid they'll get nicked the second i look away, do you guys not get stressed when leaving stuff on your bike?
>>
bought some cheap white bar tape on impulse, ballsy or retarded? probably gonna wait until my current tape is worn out to put it on though, stock cannondale tape is actually pretty decent
>>
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>>2019169
You can clean it
>>
I've ben weight shaving my 80's mtb a bit and I'd like to build up some new wheels soon. I assume I can end up with something a lot nicer for less than if I just bought a new wheelset off modernbike or whatever. I've built and repaired wheels a number of times but always with fairly janky materials, whatever I could get my hands on. I'd really like to try cartridge bearings and shoot for light weight; ambivalent on freewheel or cassette but probably stick with freewheel, either way I'll probably stick with 6 speed. The number of options is fairly bewildering, but I'm thinking of just combing the internet for good looking used or NOS hubs and rims, keeping an eye on weights and going from there. If any a/n/ons have been through this and have strong opinions/tips on finding parts for wheel building I'd like to hear it

And of course I know wheelbuilding is labor intensive, I like doing it.
>>
>>2019175
I think it's kind of crazy to stick with freewheel unless you happen upon a -really- nice hubset for practically free.

7/7+ speed cassette wheel will be lighter, stronger, shift better, and be easier/cheaper to buy parts for. The -sole- advantage of freewheels is you can have a more svelte (albeit harder to setup) looking singlespeed.

It's hard to imagine you have 6 speed indexing that's worth retaining, -maybbbee- you do
>>
>>2019169
ime white fizik classic tape stays looking good and is pretty easy to clean.

Cheap doesn't really mean anything. Imo cork white tends to look awful. whether it's gonna suit your bike depends
>>
>>2019171
>cross-breeze intensifies
>>
>>2019190
>pull side string to modify shape into cup sail for thrust
>acceleration intensifies
>>
It used to be touring gospel that 26" was the way to go in remote destinations, because of the relative ease of finding spares. Is this still true with the rise of 29? If so, likely to remain the case for a while?

Separately, interested in accounts of long-term big-miles touring. I like CGOAB but an awful lot of journals are like retirees averaging 30mi/day on paved roads.

>>2019169
>stock cannondale tape is actually pretty decent
yeah it is. I wonder what the closest aliexpress equivalent is
>>
>>2018939
Buy clinchers, sell the tubs
God forbid you get a fucking flat
>>
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>>2019112
i had a cheerful ride with it and it got worse lole
>>
is torque specs on carbon parts a meme? I remember reading somewhere that its safer to just tighten it by feel and the torque spec isn't reliable or something like that.
>>
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is it actually safe to hang carbon frame like this?
>>
>>2019272
>is torque specs on carbon parts a meme?
no, dont break your carbon by being a monkey
>>
>>2019178
Thanks for advice anon, I'm now comparing cassettes and hubs and seeing your point. Freewheel drivetrains have just been what I always had. I might end up pulling the trigger on some old stock xt or xtr hubs in the end; as much as I'd like to try cartridges it seems like the most affordable good-tier stuff is cup and cone. So be it. I'm actually using xt derailleurs but with friction, so, don't really need to worry about compatibility. Hyperglide would be nice.

One thing I am wondering about, and call it autistic if you want, is the noise. When I've ridden with guys on freehubs, they always seem to make the most godawful ratcheting racket when freewheeling. My drivetrains have always been nearly silent and /out/ in the woods that shit just kind of shatters the peace for me. Do newer ones just have gigantic pawl springs or something? I can always hear these roadie-cum-gravel bike goons coming from a mile away
>>
>>2019291
shimano hubs are near silent
campy / fulcrum are pretty loud
mavic can be both
anything exotic like CK or Hope is usually loud as fuck
>>
>>2019256
Guess you learned. Good news is it's a round seatpost so replacements are cheap and easy.
>>2019272
It's not. Torque is important on critical parts, or plastic/carbon ones.
>>2019273
Yes
>>2019291
I recommend shimano hubs. Good cup and cones, and very silent until very recently.
I have around 6 pairs of mtb wheels. The loud ones are older dt swiss, american classic...... and that's it. The dt swiss could quiet down some with grease.

I have rear shimanos deores, and 3 pairs off xt's. All of them are quiet even when they are low on grease.
Older hubs are in general quiet too, have a couple no name hubs on my mtb's. The rolf wheels on my mom's mtb are quiet too.
It's really in the mid 2000's and later when hub manufacturers got deep into loud freehubs. Most before that were pretty quiet.

Newer loud hubs are ratchet/dt swiss style+have lots of engagement points and strong springs. I9 hubs are very loud and just have a bajillion pawls and engagement points.
>>
>>2019272
lmao absolutely not, always use a torque wrench for carbon and aluminum parts, you could '"'""'""probably""''""'"'"' get by without one in a pinch but really, use a torque wrench, even wtih steel on steel interfacing parts.
>>
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How do I know what chain I have?
How do I know what chains are compatible with my bicycle?
I bought the cheapest Decathlon one and used the same number of links but it would make a loud sound every few rotations.
>>
>>2019325
It's in the picture
>Z
KMC chain
>9s
probably 9 speed quick link, so a 9 speed chain.

All bike chains are 1/2in pitch(pin to pin). Since your chain is 9s I bet your gears are 9speed.
All 9 speed chains will work with your bike.

If the decathlon chain is 9 speed it could have a stiff link(which happens when you shorten it sometimes). Wiggle the chain side to side and up and down till the chain loosens up. If you bought an 8 speed or less chain get a replacement 9sp one.
>>
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>>2019326
What does speed mean?
How do I know how much speed my bicycle has?
My bicycle has 2 gears.
Its a brompton.
This was the chain I bought from Decathlon and it would make the sound after I cut the links and used it.
>>
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>>2019326
Does that mean any 9 speed chain will work?
>>
Is there a guide on the different brands and their general rep and or strengths/weaknesses

The only bike brand I know is Schwinn from when I saw a kid lol, all these brands are overwhelming I don't know what is quality and what is shit
>>
>>2019329
>>2019328
>brompton
well that changes things a ton. If you have one gear on the front crank(chainring) and one gear on the back wheel(cog/sprocket) you can use any chain that isn't worn out. If it makes a sound make sure you lubed it, and if your chainring or cog/sprocket is worn the chain has to wear down into that, then it will stop making sounds. Only if it's a minor sound. If it's a serious grating sound double check you installed it correctly, make a video and post it here, or go to your local bike shop.
>>2019330
It's complicated. Walmart bikes are borderline okay depending on what you need. Bike store bikes are generally solid, so go to a store, learn, and research. Some brands only do mountain bikes, some do mountain+road+gravel, etc.
>>
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What helmets won't make me look like a dork?
>>
>>2019333
The Decathlon chain >>2019328 made the CRRVRK sound after every rotation cycle even though it was the same length.
>>
>>2019330
schwinn hasn't been good for a long time, they sold to the chinese in the 90s so only the older stuff is desirable
what are you looking for out of a bike?
>>
How long can I store a spare chain for?
Should I store in soaked in lube?
>>
>>2019344
More important are the living conditions of said chain. Mine have lasted 10+years sitting in the plastic bag with the OEM lube/grease on them.
It's dry here and no rain.
If you live in a humid environment put it somewhere dry, or hit it with some lube/grease and check on it every once in a while.
>>
>>2019303
>>2019309
Shimano it is. I wonder if part of the enjoyment of fancy hope hubs etc. is in the auditory showoff/built-in baseball card in the spokes thing (not that that's what the manufacturer had in mind...)
>>
>>2019334
No helm
>>
>>2019341
to ride paved trails and hilly wet (seattle) city roads

I'm not looking to race or long distance stuff right now, I just want to get out riding and gain the skills
>>
switched from shimano 2x11 to sram 1x12 and the whole experience is just mind blowing, why does it feel "smoother" to pedel and put power with sram compared to shimanos?
>>
hey anons,
my chain snapped recently and after i got home i found out the large front sprocket was bent near the crank, I've hammered it so it's not grinding the frame anymore but do you have any clue what caused this? also any tricks to flattening it other than hammering it flat, at least the smaller gear is fine so i can just spin2win when i get a new chain but I would like to prevent this in the future, also it snapped when i was cross chaining small to small (which I don't often do the chain just slipped and i couldn't shift up at that point)
>>
>>2019365
Your old drivetrain was dirty/worn but you'd gotten used to it.

>>2019369
Hard to say for sure at a distance. You could have had a compromised pin in your chain or a bent tooth on the chainring you weren't aware of, but regardless of condition, if you're pedaling hard while cross chained you're twisting the chain and that's what's the scenario where a chain is most likely to find its point of failure. And in cases where a chain breaks while pedaling you can bend a chainring because all the force is being applied to a small part of the chainring rather than being distributed around the circumference and supported by the whole ring as normal. It's odd that the chainring you weren't on would bend though, did you mean to write the opposite?
>>
>>2019372
no it was exactly what I meant that's why I'm so confused as to why it bent
>>
>>2019328
>My bicycle has 2 gears
2 on the crank, or one on the crank and one on the wheel?
"speed" in this case means how many cogs are on the cluster on the rear wheel.
also, you don't size your new chain against how many links were on the old chain and make that many on the new chain. this is because the old chain is stretched from use. it's longer than it was new, therefore the same number of links on the new chain is shorter, which may explain your issue
>>
>>2019344
they put a pasty grease on it so no air can get at it when it's in the box so they can be warehoused indefinitely without rusting.
so as long as it's in the original package, the answer should be "indefinitely."

the lightly used ones that I have laying around have the lube I put on from servicing them and then I double it back on itself until it's like 10 or so inches long and wrap them in plastic wrap. I think the oldest one is around a decade like that and I saw it the other day, seemed fine.
>>
>>2019330
we recommend against department store brands. magna, mongoose (formerly good but zombie company since mid 90s) kent, pacific, roadmaster, huffy, probably a lot more I don't know the name of.
good bike brands are sold at shops, although I imagine many can be bought online now. the big names are Specialized, Trek, Giant, Cannondale, GT, Fuji, Canyon, Surly, I'm forgetting a bunch.
other brands might be boutique or department store but price should be your guide for that. a low priced bike from a big brand might be kinda crappy, something expensive by a DS brand could be comparable. Bikesdirect falls into that category since they put lower tier parts on reputable frames and make you do some assembly and all the tuning up of the assembly that they do.

your best value is used but let us check over the listing first
>>
>>2019384
wait, I fucked up the part about the chain. the same number of links should be right, but the old chain is longer, therefore you don't size it but putting it NEXT to the old chain, because that's a different number of links. but if you did, then your new chain would be too long. if you went by the link count, it*should* be right, but yeah could be a stiff link, usually I the joining pin is always stiff and I poke it a ¼ turn the other way (sometimes go back and forth again) as part of normal installation.
or it could be something unrelated
>>
>>2019357
It is and that’s what most manufacturers make hubs of both types. DT 350, probably the most practical hub choice in existence for many years, is my quietest hub out of my 6 rear hubs. That doesn’t mean anything to me, but apparently some people like you care a lot about their hub sounds
>>
>>2019365
The power transfer might be attributed to narrowwide and a more secure-feeling chain. Otherwise, a chain on a cog is a chain on a cog and you shouldn’t feel much pedaling difference within a single gear, likely just wear/dirt
>>
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How difficult is it to call a cab in the middle of the cycling route in Taiwan if my bicycle or tyre breaks and I don't have and don't have how to replace my inner tube or tyres?
>>
>>2019322
>always use a torque wrench for aluminum parts
t. literally no bike shop or mechanic or serious amateur wrencher ever
>>
>>2019357
some roadies like it because they believe coasting is a sign of weakness and it proves they are always riding

it also has some utility as a bell. You let up to coast when approaching hazards and the hub announces your presence.
>>
>>2019425
>cycle touring
>can't fix a flat

like jumping in a river and you can't swim
>>
>>2019455
I'm not cycle touring, just doing short <120km round trips per day.
>>
>>2019456
how tf are you fit enough to consider a century 'short' but never learnt to fix a flat?
>>
>>2019457
I commute 40km to work daily but bring my bicycle to a bicycle shop for repairing of the inner tube and changing of the tyres. I can replace my chain but that's about it.
>>
>>2019390
I'm looking at the Trek Domane, it seems like perfectly acceptable quality with not much bell and whistle for me to worry about while being something that should last me for a while (unless it gets stolen kek)
>>
>>2019453
this.
On top of that guy like >>2019309 pretend torque was reliably tanslated into clamping force, which everyone with at least the slightest background in mechanics knows is not the case.
Honestly guys do your stuff by feel, then test it by applying a force that's greater than you'd expect during riding. Still slips? Do it up some more and retest unless you'r intuition tells you something is wrong. In that case go back because something is wrong.
>>
>>2019478
The “check if it slips” test is based for handlebar stuff but there’s also carbon in structural points like linkage and axles
>>
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Do you wear Bacalavas when cycling?
My forehead and side burns sweat a lot even without a helmet so I don't know how much worse it'll be with one
>>
I torqued down my caliper bolts to 15nm and the washer edges stamped a ring into the new anodized calipers. Is this going to be an issue or is it common?
>>
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Is there a point getting a cycling jacket if you're already wet with sweat?
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>>2019478
It takes like 30 seconds to use a torque wrench, and if the item has it on the face I don't even have to look it up. Also, if it's going to a customer I prefer to have that as a guarantee. Admittedly I was thinking in other industries, but yes you can just go "gud-n-tight" for all aluminum parts and most carbon parts. The cracking sound of carbon is just no fun.
Luckily I ride old stuff so I can easily tighten on the trail. No torx tools I have to carry around.
>>2019487
Yeah I break open the baclava and instead of eating it smear it on my face and head. This attracts animals to keep me warm.
>>
>>2019518
what? are you stupid?
>>
>>2019458
you need to up your game, man.
fixing a flat is babby tier.
>>
>>2019459
I'm only speaking as someone who has been on this board a long time but a domane is a bike I have always seen spoken of favorably, never negatively.
>>
>>2019518
a jacket for rain will keep the water off but drench you in sweat, including "breathable" fabric like goretex, unless you're riding in subzero temperatures or something.
conversely, you want a windbreaker when it's cold. only wear the minimum base layer. the jacket will retain your body heat so no sweaters or the like will be necessary.
for rain in warm weather, what your pic shows is best ime.
a poncho that's open at the bottom will keep air circulating and you'll be relatively cool. but ponchos are billow-y on a bike, the best is a "raincape", designed to go over the entire bike, resting only on your shoulders, keeping the airway open and away from your body so you stay as cool as possible.
however, if you aren't running full fenders, then the road spray will go up under the cape. so you need both. but if you ride in the rain, fenders are arguably more important than the wearable rain gear in any event.

until recently, China was a nation of daily bicycle commuters. fenders and raincape was used by a billion chinamen because that was what worked.
>>
is it okay to store my bike on its back wheel over the winter? i dont have much space in my room
its a hardtail with a spring fork
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>>2019569
It's fine but you might need to bleed the brakes in the spring (assuming you have hydro brakes)
>>
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What kind of bikes are these? I found them on this guy's instagram (https://www.instagram.com/probably_riding/). They kind of look like hybrids/mtb bikes but with more upright position and comfy city bike handlebars. Are these just cruiser bikes or do they have a different name?
>>
>>2019570
oof i'd rather not fuck around with that
i'll find a way to store it on both wheels then
>>
>>2019572
80's/90's mtbs with converted bars.
>>
>>2019532
thanks for feedback anon
>>
>>2019572
bikes that hipsters ride
>>
>>2019572
left is a rigid fork 90s mtb
middle and right are touring bikes setup as cruisers
>>
>>2018905
New to /n/, I come from /diy/. I want to buy a cheap hub motor to throw on the front of my junky commuter bike, to use it as a test-bed for motor driving experiments.

There's no Amazon or other dropshipping warehouses where I live. The only ones I see on AliExpress with Choice shipping (free shipping above X dollars) are bare hubs, no wheel. Is it worth buying one of these to put in a wheel? What's the process like? Do I need to buy spokes of a certain length because the hub is wider? I probably wouldn't really trust chinky spokes, and chinky rims are going to be expensive since they don't have Choice shipping either. I think I have an old wheel lying about that I can straighten from when an SUV cut me off, but otherwise I'd probably try to buy a shitty 2nd hand one from my local bike shop.

I guess it's an option to respoke my current front wheel, but then I can't quickly swap it back out again.

Help.
>>
>>2019598
building a wheel is time consuming and there's more of a learning curve than other bike stuff.
spoke length is determined by the hub width, hub flange height, rim diameter, and the lacing patern (you want 3x, which is standard, or maybe 4x for heavy brick shithouse. the spokes cross each other and make multiple triangular shapes per spoke as you have seen. sometimes you see a race bike with a radial or 0x pattern, which looks different since it looks like pieces of pie). the spokes have to be within a few mm of correct or it won't work.
luckily now there are online spoke calculators but you still have to measure your hub and the rim diameter of where the spokes meet the interior surface (different than the tire size measurement.)
if you're lucky you can get the numbers from the spec sheets online.
then you have to bring all the spokes up to approximately equal tension (feel them against a known good wheel of similar build but your rear wheel has no motor, smaller flange, longer spokes; so you can't use it as a guide like you usually would) or there's an expensive tool that measures the tension.
then you have to true the wheel, adjust the individual spoke tension to pull or push out the slight differences until the rim is perfectly straight.
there's tons of online directions. you can do it but if you go too fast you'll fuck something up and have to backtrack. it is a slow, often frustrating process. experience is how you get good and confident. usually people learn by truing the wheels they've bent for a while before attempting a full build.
>>
>>2019598
Wheelbuilding is as much an art as it is a science, it requires balance. Before you run, you must learn to walk. Have you trued a wheel before? If you haven't trued a wheel yet, I suggest you find a shitter wheel to true first. A real danger of amateur wheel work is overtensioning the spoke and snapping a hub flange or popping an eyelet through the rim. There's 3 metrics on wheel trueness, radial, lateral, and axial true, adjusting one affects the other metrics, so balance must be found.
>>
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got these lights, they're very convenient but the battery drains fast as fuck, i have to charge them after just an hour of riding. any way to fix this? i guess i can't easily replace the battery or anything
>>
>>2019611
knogs are notorious for low battery life, but also are you running on steady mode? don't listen to the batavophile lunatics who claim blinking is bad. if blinking was bad it wouldn't be used by railroad crossings, emergency vehicles, aircraft, etc.
>>
>>2019612
i personally get annoyed at bliking lights myself so i don't want to subject other to it. also a native "batavian", but i ride fast as fuck on a road bike so not an unracer
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>>2019614
idk what kind of modes that light has but a pulsed or fade mode works great for a rear light. blinking is annoying and it's hard to track the motion of a blinky.
i'd definitely get something better for a front light, i have the trek ion rt, on the lowest setting it's still 10x more lumens than that dinky thing and lasts for at least 4 hours even after using it regularly for years. it also has a 'blink' mode that uses a steady low light and pulses brighter. if you want something cheaper the ion comp r is on sale for $50. as you're euro trek is going to be way less widespread but i'm sure you can find something similar
>>
>>2019615
i already have a trek rear light lying around, but i like how small and lightweight, and easily removable the knog lights are. i can just throw them on in half a second and they barely take up space in my pocket, very handy for urban rides.
>>
>>2019614
I use the flashing lights so it does annoy and show people driving by I am here.
>>
>>2019643
right so so you know it's annoying, having access to separate bike networks i don't feel like i need need it to defend me from cagies
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>>2019645
Okay then you’re not the demographic, the people who do ride on the road should use blinking lights, they don’t make any difference in multi-use paths, glad we can all agree
>>
>>2019645
When I am riding at the whee hours of the night there are like 1 cars per 30 minutes so yeah I want a drunk driver to not run my ass over at 50 mph.
On a seperate bike network it wouldn't be much of an issue since everyone is riding, walking, or not cars.

My life is worth annoying other people for 3 seconds.
>>
>>2019647
>>2019648
yeah that's fair, personally i would just choose not to cycle if i had to share a road with cars going over 50kph, i once ran into one going 10kph and messed up my shoulder pretty bad just from that
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>>2019611
there's a couple of anons here that know how to solder in replacement batteries that you could get longer lasting ones but you have to hope they see your post.
I hate blink but luckily my rear light has the option to sort of fade back and forth. I'd prefer steady but yeah it eats up the battery
>>
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>>2019604
>>2019608
Thanks for the responses. If I've still got that warped old front wheel, looks to be about 5-10mm to the side at one point, I'll give truing it a crack to see how feasible it is. Also my current wheels make pinging noises all the time so I probably need to tighten all my spokes a bit.

Any recommended spoke wrenches? All I have is the one on my multitool, and it's cumbersome.

>>2019658
My Niteride Sabre 110 has this mode where it stays on a low brightness, and pulses to a higher brightness for half a second every 3 or so seconds. It's a nice compromise between visibility and irritation, and it lasts probably like 5-10 hours of use on that mode even with its tiny battery. I had to 3D print a custom bracket for it in order to fasten it to my rear luggage rack (the old bracket was on my bike that got stolen), hasn't fallen off yet.
>>
>>2019665
Oh, yeah my rear light I use that same function of low/dim+flash.
>>
>>2019665
>I probably need to tighten all my spokes a bit.
No, you idiot
>>
>>2019665
Get a spoke wrench that fits tight. I would get one that can slip on the side like normal for lower tension, and get one like the park tool 4 sided one. I think the ones I use are park tool or some old brand but idk. Black is what I use 99% of the time.
The pinging means your spokes are relaxing into place and you didn't stress relieve them full before. Just check em after if she wobbles.
>>
>>2019665
You are going to make faster progress by bending a taco'd rim by holding one end and beating it back in line against a soft surface like grass
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>>2019665
I mean, Park is the standard for all bike tools. they gouge on certain things, but their spoke wrenches are cheap, and you know the minute tolerances for different spoke nipple widths will be certain with them vs aliexpress specials.

I hear Pedros are legit, too.
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>>2019674
I mean, his pic is hardly taco'd, but you're right.
if the rim's metal itself is bent (rather than spoke tension is just pulling it off-true) even just an inch, you better detension the whole wheel so the hub is floppy and push the rim into place. a doorframe you don't care about chipping the paint on is excellent. I used a brick with a folded rag over it just the other day, and yesterday I put my ass and a 24 case of beer over that wheel and it stayed true like a charm. trying to true that bend straight resulted in too much tension to pull it and it would just turn into a pringles potato chip when I pre-stressed it.
>>
>>2019665
>I probably need to tighten all my spokes a bit
No you don't, overtightening your spokes makes your wheel weaker, it's a common noob mistake. Your spokes ping because they're releasing built up tension, there's a technique to release the tension without loosening/tightening the spoke. Read a basic wheel truing tutorial
>>
>>2019243
>>2018943
>>2018940
>>2018941
what would be a decent classic clincher rim 700c?
>>
>>2019686
My favorite are campagnolo hubs(records, tipos)+mavic rims(g40's, cxp's, etc).
Dura ace 7400 through 7800 have beautiful hubs.
Just go silver hub(IMO) and whatever rim you like. I am partial to 36hole rims of that era since they don't need adjustments as frequently but I weigh 200lbs, so if you are sub 180 32's are plenty. Or go with a strong modern rim like a velocity

Most of the japanese hubs like sansin, suntour, shimano(xyz) are solid. Rare hubs like sealed mavics, suzue, or others are neat.

Matrix rims are nice made in america via trek stuff. Saturnae was specialized rim brand for a while which was probably japanese.

French stuff can be weird so watch out, and if you are going freewheel get a british/english or italian threaded hub. French stuff is just a little different. I wouldn't do maillard helicomatic hubs, heard they can have issues.

Oh, and if you are going cassette understand the difference between uniglide and hyperglide. Shimano did some fucky stuff in the 80's.

Don't do steel rims. Just don't unless you like weight+shit brakes in the wet.
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>>2019671
I first trued my current front wheel with the shitty tool in my multitool (it said 3.45mm IIRC, the 3.25mm one didn't fit at all), just using a pencil held against my fork to check for deviations, pretty happy with how it turned out. I then went at the warped wheel, got it 95% of the way there before I rounded over two of the spoke nuts. I suspect now that I should have tightened them less, and that I should have over-loosened the opposing spokes before putting some force on the wheel more often. I learnt a lot, I'll buy a bunch of spoke nuts and some rim tape. While the radius was close enough that I didn't bother trying to true that too, I think I'd be willing to try spoking-up a hub motor. Though I might need to mock-up a jig to ensure I have a consistent radius.

>>2019675
Nice to know, I'll check them out.

>>2019677
>Your spokes ping because they're releasing built up tension
I think one of the issues is that the spokes on the rear wheel (didn't bother messing with them today) are really rusty. They kinda cling to each other. I think the former owner lived by the sea or something because even the aluminium frame has patches where the paint is gone and there's a crusty white oxide on the metal. The forks are seized too.

Speaking of rust, my right pedal's bearing seized 5 years ago, so I'm leaving the bike on its side with the pedal in an old icecream tub full of citric acid solution. If that doesn't work well enough, I'll try electrochemical rust removal. I might be able to do a similar thing with my rear wheel, but using a solution-soaked-rag connected to the power supply.
>>
>>2019691
don't forget to also true the wheel axially, called dishing a wheel
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>>2019691
>nipple rounded off
you want to put a drop of thin oil on each spoke before you true, so that that doesn't happen. Sewing machine oil is quite good and it usually comes in bottles with appropriate applicator nozzles

proper spoke keys also have better engagement
>>
>>2019693
Yeah I'll probably want to design a jig to measure that too. Probably three pieces of timber with a holder for my callipers. Though it doesn't matter that much, I can just adjust the V-brake set-screws if it's off by 10mm or less.

>>2019694
They did feel a bit seized, that's certainly a good idea. I'll need to get some more oil, the little bottle I had slowly leaked all over my cycle repair pouch by the time I noticed.
>>
Does a recreational city bike need suspension?
>>
>>2019701
nothing "needs" suspension, but it's nice to have if you're riding on a lot of uneven surfaces.
>>
>>2019701
no, and you'll save like 4 pounds off the bike if it has a carbon fork instead
>>
>>2019691
>spoke nuts
nipples.

the axial/dish basically means centered between the dropouts. on the front, it'll be symmetrical between the two flanges if it's a rim brake bike.
on the rear, the hub flange on the drive side is further inboard to make room for the gear(s). so there's a little more tension in the spokes on that flange to pull the rim closer to that flange so it's centered inside the bike.
disc hubs have to be dished according to the rotor mounts.
>>
>>2019701
wide tires, lower end of their listed pressure, unweight the saddle when you go over bumps and keep your knees and elbows loose. you stand on the pedals to raise your butt, but for small stuff you might still be making light contact with the saddle. your joints become the shock instead of the bumps going up your spine. helps you, helps the handling on the bike.
suspension is for heavy off-road, to maintain high speeds without being thrown off . it's heavy and not worth it unless you're sending the bike over gnarly shit
>>
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I'm in the market for a new road bike and initially had my eye on the 3T Strada. However, I'm now reconsidering whether the 3T Exploro Ultra gravel bike might be a better choice since I live in an area known for its gravel paths. While speed is important to me, it's not a deal breaker as I don't plan to participate in races. I expect to ride on roads 75% of the time, facing wet and icy conditions in winter, and spend the remaining 25% on gravel paths.

Given that the 3T Exploro Ultra and 3T Strada share similar specs—both featuring SRAM Eagle XX1 AXS wireless shifters, SRAM Force AXS hydraulic disc brakes, and a full carbon frame and wheels—would the 3T Exploro Ultra ultimately be the better option?
>>
>>2019717
Does this thing accept mountain bike tires??? I think it's wayyyy overkill if you are truly going to be 75 road. And honestly 15% of the 25% gravel you do can easily be handled with 32mm tires (the strada can accept up to 30 but I bet 32mm will fit)

A bike like picrel will be a big compromise on smooth roads. It's more for truly gnarly pebbly gravel and races of the sort. If you're riding on dirt roads and fine gravel you're doing just fine on a road bike.

If you truly want more gravel capacity consider meeting somewhere in the middle. Lots of modern road bikes fit up to 38mm tires. Giant Defy comes to mind.
>>
Shopping for a first MTB. I have done a fair bit of MTB on a rigid MTB and rentals, decided on a hard tail for price + maintenance

Found this bike used:

Giant Fathom 1 2022, minor upgrades

ALUXX SL aluminum frame
Giant Crest 34 suspension fork with 130mm of travel
Black ops crankset
Bontrager XR5 Team issue 29 x 2.5 tubeless ready tires (currently setup tubeless)
Bontrager Line Comp 30 wheels
SRAM DB8 hydraulic disc brake set
Shimano Deore XT derailleur 12 speed
KS Lev Integra Dropper seatpost

This bike speaks to me since it's trail geo so good all around. It's got everything I want (29er, hardtail, dropper, hydro brakes). It's my size. And the frame is highly reviewed

He's asking $800 which seems a very good deal, it's not very used.

Only thing that concerns me is the 12 speed deore, all my bikes use HG freehubs and I'd be annoyed at having a new expensive hub to shop for (but I am unfamiliar with MTB standards)

What do you think? Do I go for it?

For context, planning on using this in the North East hitting woodsy single track with roots, occasional downhill and flowy tracks, lots of climbing.
>>
>>2018905
>Pretty asian girls sweating edition
Absolutely ridiculous. Asian girls don't even Fucking sweat from sex!
>>
My question is as follows.

I am already a 150 star general at dodging the missiles that you fire at me from the comfort of your car's air conditioning.

Do you understand?

Such

simple things?
>>
>>2019717
>vittoria names their tire after an intensely psychedelic, illegal drug
the hipster gravel culture is out of control
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>>2019747
for road tires, I prefer the Vittoria Cocaine in 23.
riding on rails!
>>
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>>2019724
>he can't make Asian girls sweat from sex
>>
>>2019717
You can ride gravel paths on pure road bikes. Gravel paths are no bumpier than country roads and road tires have excellent grip offroad.

The problem you might have riding loose gravel would be stones thrown up into the ridiculous aero seat tube bit that scratch your frame.

>i want a ridiculous aero race bike but i also want a gravel bike
for fucks sake dude. Just get a regular road bike then.
Why have you just chosen two extreme options? They're both impractical and overkill.
>>
>>2019723
I want a bike like that too.
Really like the look of that one. Nice colour.
The cabling is a bit whack, why nothing through the DS grommet? Front hose is way too long, others, too long.

I don't think it makes sense to try to make your modern mtb backwards compatible, you just can't, and what is even the point? It's not a project, it comes with wheels, hopefully, you won't have to do anything to them. Cross that bridge if you come to it.

my questions would be how regarded the fork is, especially when it comes to servicing it (iunno much about forks at all so can't help you there), and i'd go around de-stressing all the pairs of spokes and seeing if the tension feels roughly even and that you're not getting a 'bad' set of wheels, that'd be a haggling point or maybe even a straight pass.
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>>2019747
its just a fucking plant cunt
how can a plant be illegal
>>
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Took the pedals off, now the tricky part. Removing the rust from inside the threads of these shafts.
>>
doing a century ride this sunday and I've only done 70 miles at once...how fucked am I?
>>
>>2019753
I don't make the rules and I've done psychedelic drugs maybe 20 times over the years. my point is, I'm not going to name any product I sell the Super-Cool-DMT-Ayahuasca Mindbender Tire because that's fucking cringe as hell and totally highschool.
and yet, Vittoria's marketing department made this happen because the idiots who make gravel bikes their "lifestyle" think buying a tire called Peyote is cool.
I bet they sell a lot of them to people exactly like you.
>>
>>2019758
Just fuel right and PACE yourself. If you pace yourself (take it easy man) it will be fine.
If you don't.... GG NO RE.
>>2019723
>black ops crankset
Can you get skins for it?
>bontrager wheels and tires
that's odd since bontrager is a TREK brand.
MTB standards are all about new and expensive so you got to nut up and shut up if you want the fancier tech.
I used to do black runs on a freeride hardtail and it was fine. Check what brand makes those forks whether it's rockshox, suntour, marzocchi, etc.
2.5in tires with 130mm suspension is kinda setup for all mountain or modern trail/enduro but if you like to winch up hills and bomb down it should be fine.

Not sure how your market is but 800 seems reasonable.
>>
>>2019758
You're gonna be fine totally. If you can do 70 you can do 100. Biggest thing is fuel like anon said. Eat well beforehand and keeeeep onnnnn eeeaaattttiiinnnggg.

Your ass is going to really hurt, NBD. And be sure to pace yourself, I almost failed my first century cause I rode too fast with some real roadies the first 25. Otherwise I bet it'll feel fairly similar to 70 miles. You got this.
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>>2019760
A lot of people would just know peyote as a cactus, not a drug. They didn't call it mescaline.

Also, the name is descriptive. You imagine the tire is for dry/ loose riding offroad, like the desert conditions you'd find peyote in, which it is.
>>
>>2019757
the actual fuck are you doing dude?
Are you doing that because the axle is siezed in the crank?

What you're doing is unecessery. It will come off with a long enough lever, ie, put a pipe over the end of your spanner.

If you're just doing it to tidy up the threads on the outside end of the pedal, ok, really not necessery but ok.

I hope those are formerly expensive pedals too because imo rebuilding cheap pedals is a waste of time and they almost never are even able to be setup smoothly because the bearing surfaces are such low quality and the preload system is stupid.
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>>2019767
sure, jan
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>>2019768
>Are you doing that because the axle is siezed in the crank?
Affirmative.
>It will come off with a long enough lever, ie, put a pipe over the end of your spanner.
I think I have a pipe that would fit, but I don't have a way of clamping the rest of the crank in place. The nuts fastening the crank to the bike itself are also rusted to shit, so I can't just take it off and put it in a vice. The vice is in the corner of my garage so there's no room to put the bike itself in it, though I guess I could try to remove the vice and screw it to my deck or something. I whaled on it with a hammer earlier today and it didn't budge.

Also I'm de-rusting the other side at the same time. I'll leave it for a day like this, then blast it out with compressed air and spray in some penetrating oil, let it soak for a few hours, then whale on it again.
>>
>>2019773
>I don't have a way of clamping the rest of the crank in place
why on earth would you need to do that? Just stand on a pedal. Lets see if you can lift your entire weight off the ground with the lever and it not crack the pedal before we talk about needing to fasten it somehow.

>The nuts fastening the crank to the bike itself are also rusted to shit, so I can't just take it off and put it in a vice
It's easier to do on the bike. Your crank being siezed is likely also not real.

>whaled on it with a hammer
that can work but often with a bicycle it will absorb/ deflect most of the brunt of your blows through the tires/frames so yeah.

Pedals aren't actually stuck until you strip out a spanner using a long enough lever, but even then, you can easily re-establish flats with a file. The amount of force possible to put through a pedal is kind of infinate. I have never been unable to remove pedals and i deal with a fuckload of old bikes.
>>
>>2019773
also a tip for you: strap your front wheel to your downtube when doing things like this. It makes the bike way more stable and easier to deal with.
>>
>>2019760
Personally I’m a slow reezay kinda guy
>>
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>>2019760
>who make gravel bikes their "lifestyle" think buying a tire called Peyote is cool.
it is cool, nerd
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>>2019781
420 SEND IT BRO
>>
>>2019775
>Lets see if you can lift your entire weight off the ground with the lever and it not crack the pedal before we talk about needing to fasten it somehow.
Oh it's definitely more force than my weight, but I am a 120lb skeleton. Considering even the aluminium frame has patches of crusty white oxide, I bet it was stored near the ocean or otherwise got salt water inside it.
>>
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>>2019783
Whew, got there in the end. After taking out of the placebo bath, I reefed on the cranks with a 1.5m breaker bar and one came loose under my weight. The second one broke my spanner (though it wasn't quite the right size) so I had to file the flats larger to use my largest adjustable wrench. Took a while, then it took me and another person holding it down to break it loose. Now I've got fresh 2nd hand pedals on there, good as new.
I think next week I'll tackle the forks.
>>
>>2019907
>feels good man
>>
Do you need to change both tyres if one tyre bursts so that they have equal wear or is it a consoomerism trick on your brain?

Do you need to change both inner tubes if one inner tubes bursts so that they have equal wear or is it a consoomerism trick on your brain?
>>
>>2019935
it's nice to have a fresh set but you don't need to change both at all, and usually they wear unevenly with the front tire lasting longer
>>
Why are cyclists insane about the cars being unsafe in roads etc. but then I constantly see cyclists cutting through red lights and blowing through stop signs without looking etc

I dont understand why cyclists don't follow the rules of the road????
>>
>>2019979
The potential for damage is significantly higher with a car. If a cyclist crashes, the damage is mostly to himself. If a car crashes, it's another car, the people in it, road infra, sometimes even a house or business is damaged.
>>
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>>2019983
that should be a reason to not ride like an absolute retard
>>
>>2019983
i mean sure, but drivers and pedestrians operate around the road assuming everyone is following the same rules, bikers cruising through shit and being unpredictable as to what the rules of the road are is the problem I'm talking about
>>
>>2019075
Bigger rims will not work with rim brakes. So you're stuck with 26", at least on the rear. On the front, you could change the fork and do 27.5, but it might look weird.
>>
>>2019979
I dunno about you but if I follow the rules of the road people get pissed at me. They just see me as in the way
>>
>>2019761
>>2019765
thanks. i'll be sure to go slower and bring food
>>
Anyone here have experience with singlespeedshop.com? I'm looking to convert my MTB, and this store seems cheap and near by, since I'm europoor.

Specifically looking at these parts:
https://www.singlespeedshop.com/Single-Speed---Fixed-Gear/Chainrings473/Gebhardt/Classic-Gebhardt-Chainring---32T---39T-----104mm.html
https://www.singlespeedshop.com/Single-Speed---Fixed-Gear/Single-Speed-Conversion-Parts/Single-Speed-Conversion-Kit---Kit-1.html
https://www.singlespeedshop.com/BMX/Ketten/Bondage-Half-Link-Kette.html
>>
>>2019935
>change both tyres if one tyre bursts
no, the rear always wears faster anyway. it's recommended to move the front to the rear when you replace the rear and put the new one on the front because you want the strongest tire on the front where you steer; a flat where you steer is more dangerous because it can throw you. when the rear flats, you can more easily just coast and brake to a stop.


>change both inner tubes if one inner tubes bursts so that they have equal wear
inner tubes don't wear. they only fail because of punctures. you can patch one indefinitely except for a long tear (almost never happens) or a hole close to the valve which a patch cannot enclose. otherwise there's no need to ever replace one. the patches actually make it stronger , to whatever degree the patches are thicker than the tube
>>
>>2019979
would you rather be hit by 200 pounds at 20mph or one ton at 60mph?
>>
>>2020016
>>2020009
I'm just saying I would rather not collide with a biker being reckless while im driving my car

I understand drivers are insane but watching people on bikes cut roads and shit as if they can see everything around them is exactly the same as what drivers do
>>
>>2019988
do you know how many people have been killed by someone hitting them with a bicycle? I'm aware of about 3. they're always highly publicized.
people getting hit by cars happens so often as to be mundane. people actually dying in car crashes usually doesn't even make the news. as much as you hate seeing bikes disobey the law, automobiles do it so much that it doesn't even register with you, it's completely normalized. despite the consequences of autos disobeying the law being deadly, you only care about bikes because "those people are different than me."

if you want to be totally cynical, then you shouldn't care because if a bike does something dumb and gets hit, they're either dead or off the road with injury, it solves your entire problem with them. the motorist will live to kill another day.
>>
>>2019988
>drivers and pedestrians operate around the road assuming everyone is following the same rules
pedestrians? what wonderland do you live in where peds pay attention to anything?
cars barely pay attention as it is.
>>
>>2019979
get this: it's legal in some places
https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Idaho_stop
>>
>>2020018
The difference is its in the bikers best interest to be predictable , they are the ones most liable to be hurt on a road with cars

I understand a lot of car drivers are not predicatable either but at least most of the time thats car v car


I dont hate people on bikes
>>
>>2020017
But it's not, we can see all of our surroundings and are infact looking where we go. We cannot text and ride. We are a fraction of the size of a car. The reason you see cyclists do these things is because they have the capability to.

Do we sometimes pop in front of people? Yea. Do we sometimes cut off traffic and be really annoying? Yea. Do we sometimes fall and eat shit or hit pedestrians? Yea. Is it our fault? Yes definitely.

Do drivers some times swerve into the shoulder accidentally? Or not yield correctly forcing others to emergency brake? Text and drive? Yea. Yea. Yea.

The difference is you will end lives when you make a mistake. We will scratch paint and hurt ourselves, maybe rough someone up.

I get what you're saying, why is it ok for cyclists to break the rules but cars not. Certainly a cyclist riding like a dick is asking for it. But even a cyclist following the rules is cruising for a bruising and that's because cars and bikes are just different. You can't compare the risk the pose to traffic.
>>
>>2020022
>bikers best interest to be predictable
it's in a car's best interest to be predictable, but they don't do it either. and car-v-car creates an insane -- and I do literally mean insane -- number of deaths.

what you're saying is "why do human beings make bad decisions?" but you're framing it as a bike issue because bikes different.
>>
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Bought an aluminium cyclocross frame and I’m not sure if it’s salvageable? Not sure whether it’s worth even taking to a bike shop.

I think the rear alignment is out slightly (flipped the wheel in the rear dropouts).

Or can I technically still fit cantilevers even if the wheel isn’t centre under the brake bridge? Or would it need to be ‘V’ brakes. Or would neither work?
>>
>>2020027
it looks fine to me anon
>>
>>2020027
Looks pretty centered to me. Oh, and even with bikes that have offset wheels due to fucked frame making,repairs, etc if it rides fine it's fine.

Neat screwed and glued frame btw. Maybe not screwed but that's what I always heard old aluminum glued frames called.
>>
>>2020027
I think the frame is fine but maybe the rear wheel's rim needs to be dished to the right to get centered.
it could just be a trick of perspective in the photo, though.
>>
What puncture repair patches do you guys use? I've had to use a few recently, and there's just one left in my kit. A while ago I was using non-adhesive patches that came with a tube of rubber cement, but the cement all evaporated due to a pinhole in the tube. After that I got self-adhesive patches, which are convenient but I found they leaked air when patching over the flashing/crest at the apex of the tube. What do I get next? A bit of both? I have like 15 flat tubes lying about because I typically just buy new ones, but it would be nice to spend an afternoon patching old tubes to use again when needed.
>>
>>2020034
I just get the regular patches of no particular brand, the kind you are calling non-adhesive. the glue thing is fucking annoying. I got a full can of the vulcanizing fluid with a brush on the cap for home, and I carry an old nail polish bottle full of it on the bike because I got sick of the metal toothpaste-style tubes failing
>>
>>2020035
Ah, that's a good idea. I'll put empty nail-polish bottles on my aliexpress order, though it's probably best to get the liquid itself from a more trusted source, same for the patches.
>>
I'd like to buy a custom lycra jersey covered in fake sponsorships (certainly violating some kind of trademark law) as a laugh. Does anyone know where to buy something like this
>>
>>2020027
I have 2 bikes where the rear wheel doesn't sit totally centered between the seat stays. One came like that, the other was because my axel spaces were wrong. In either case the bike rode completely fine.

I think your frame is fine and it's the wheel that is out of alignment. It's very slight though.

If you want to make it perfect look up wheel dishing, it's pretty fool proof but it does involve adjusting spokes, bike shop can do it very easily. It'd be a cheap job don't let them scam you.
>>
>>2020027
Oh yea also, your cantis or v brakes will work fine with your wheel like that, you can adjust each arms starting position no problemo. But like I said it looks pretty centered already I think you're just being super precise. It'll ride fine.
>>
>>2020035
This is genius I am going to copy you

I found some cheap Chinese motorcycle patches that come in a sheet of like 50 for $7, combined with a regular jar of cement and boom patches are basically free.

Why does so much bike stuff feel like a scam
>>
>>2019979
you need to separate the idea of cyclists being reckless and cyclists not following the rules

rules for cyclists do not keep you safe and do not make much sense.
safe cycling is not about rule following

and so you need to be clear if you're complaining about cyclists being unsafe, or, things being 'unfair' because cyclists are not following the rules.

The idea of 'fairness' is for children, life is not fair, bicycles have many advantages over cars, and cars have many advantages over bicycles. Seeking to compare them and make things 'fair' by having an identical set of expectations, really makes very little sense.
>>
>>2019907
>imperial spanner on a pedal
lmao jesus fucking christ
>>
>>2020023
>You can't compare the risk the pose to traffic.
This

It's a reason why as a cyclist, or a driver, i never get mad about pedestrians. It is their right to not pay attention, to be on their phones, listening to music, step infront of you. They pose no danger to anyone else, it is not their responsibility to be careful, but yours, if you are dangerous.

You can get mad about an inattentative pedestrian, but what about if it was a 5 year old who ran into the road? Is it their fault if you hit them with your car? What about a drunk, or a retard?

Pedestrians are not dangerous, cyclists are not that dangerous. Cars are dangerous, and therefor have heightened responsibility. Trucks, doubly.

Unfortunately, the opposite logic usually applies. People think BECAUSE they are dangerous, that they deserve the right of way, and everyone else should look out for them.
>>
>>2020054
https://www.soigneur.co.nz/

custom merino
>>
I just rewrapped my bars…and now my RD is moving when I turn the bars…wtf did I do?? Wrap the shifter cable under too much pressure?
>>
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I live in Chicago and would like to buy a good brand new bike to commute from train to work. What's something I should look for? Thin tyres? Road/gravel bikes? I would like to attach a basket on the back. $600usd

I basically want to go fast/long distance without much pedaling (without buying an ebike)
>>
>>2020072
ozark trail g.1 explorer.
Or, a gravel bike at your local bike store. Go here first and see what they have and tell him what you want.
>>2020065
bro.....
way too tight. Let that housing relax and loosen up the adjuster at your RD then try again.
>>
>>2020072
Hello fellow Chicagoanon, before we continue, I need to ask, where will you be storing your bike during work? If it's going to be outside, then lower your budget and consider it a disposable bike if it gets stolen. Singlespeeds are great because our city is flat and it's low maintenance which helps in the winter. 28s are more than adequate but if you're a heavier rider or unfit, then wider tires are nicer for our shit tier streets. An important thing to realize is drop bars are nice because they're narrow, it helps a lot when lugging the bike up and down stairs, riding on the train, or just simply because narrower bars slip through tight gaps between traffic.
>>
>>2020061
My metric ones jumped from 14 to 17 or some shit, no clue why they skip a bunch but I guess the pedal flats are an unusual size unless you buy bike-specific tools.
>>
>>2020072
>I basically want to go fast/long distance without much pedaling
a road bike

I would strongly consider used at that budget. It's not quite enough to get a nice new road bike (800-1200).

Post your height and local cl and i'll make some recs when i get home from work.
>>
>>2020077
lol no dude you just have some whack/incomplete set
>>
>>2020077
Its a 15mm size, and if you are getting decent pedals I recommend you use the right size or at least a smol adjustable.
>>
>>2020074
Alr thanks brother
>>2020075
I work at UIC so I'll leave it on the sidewalk with the bike racks. I am fit, not obese. I have an mtb which I rode for the first time and it was hell. Also, everyone on the cta and pace was an asshole
>>
I measured my spoke width and my shitty callipers were reading about 1.9mm. Is this more likely to be a 15G or 14G? It's a mountain bike wheel from a Scott, 2008-2015 I'd say. My callipers read a bit too large so I'm thinking 15G, but by how uncommon it is compared to 14G I'm not so sure. Since I'm buying new spokes anyhow, does it matter what size I get so long as the nipples match, or are the holes in the rim different?
>>
>>2020082
Small sets do jump from 14 straight to 17, though that means just 7-pieces. It's a 2nd hand kit, so it wasn't my choice, but it does highlight that I need a wider array of tools.

>>2020084
Well my new pedals aren't very new, and they've got a hex socket on the back of them, so I'll be fine for now. Actually I might want to get some copper anti-seize for them, just in case.
Didn't want to use a smaller adjustable because it probably would have broken.
>>
>>2020087
Are they butted spokes? 2.0mm (14g) straight spokes are way more common than 1.8mm (15g) spokes. But if they're nice-ish wheels, it's possible they're 2.0mm at the ends and 1.8mm in the middle. But the hole in the rim is the same, so like you said, you're good as long as the nipples match the spoke.
>>
>>2020092
Constant width for sure. I imagine the thread is different for different gauges of spoke. Looking around I see spokes are actually pretty expensive locally, 1.50-2.50USD each, so I'm now considering chinky spokes. Either way I'll have to wait for the chinky hub motor to arrive before measuring the necessary spoke length.

Maybe I replace the spokes with a disc of plywood, lmao.
>>
>>2020093
>I imagine the thread is different for different gauges of spoke.
Correct. But if you're rebuilding the wheel with a new motorized hub, be aware that many of them take larger gauge spokes. Sometimes 13g or 12g. Getting into some spokes that large will sometimes require a nipple so fat that the hole in the rim needs to be larger. I obviously don't know your exact situation, but just something to keep in mind.
>>
>>2020093
bad news for you is wheel components are kinda expensive. Used wheels are crazy cheap comparatively.
>>
>>2020094
>many of them take larger gauge spokes
I didn't think about that, so I likely will need to get a full set of nipples.
Though I was wondering if it would be possible to reuse my current spokes, either by shortening and tapping threads on them, or by putting them at funny angles. I guess I'll give it a shot once they arrive, nothing to lose.

>>2020095
Well I already have an unused wheel, but I'm putting a hub motor on it. Hub motors with wheels already spoked to them are 2-3 times more expensive than the raw hub motors, because of shipping costs to where I live. Thanks Xi.

Maybe the better move is to use a chain-drive motor, though I don't have a welder, so making a mounting bracket strong enough to hold the motor wouldn't be easy.
>>
Bought a stem raiser without a top bolt hole.
Will this negatively impact its stability? Do I still need to put the bolt into the steerer tube?
>>
>>2020125
the top bolt and the star nut it threads into inside the fork steerer tube do nothing once the stem bolts are tightened.

It is just to set the preload on the bearings. Basically the bolt pulls the stem down, which closes up the gap, and you can finely tune it to have no play, but be as loose as possible so it turns smoothly. And then you do up the stem and that holds it together in that position.

That stem, i can only guess, is threaded externally at the bottom and you have these two nuts, one to adjust, the other a locknut you turn it against to set the adjustment.
This is a terrible system because it means that the preload adjustment is below the stem clamp and so it can maybe go out of adjustment. These types of systems existed in the early days of threadless headsets, diatech, etc. All stupid as fuck.
>>
>>2020125
but yeah if it is like i think it is then it's probably totally fine
just stupid as fuck and needlessly complicated just so that the top is smooth
>>
>>2020126
Fuck, I guess I'll just try to sell this one off (too much hassle to return it) and get another one with a top bolt.
>>
>>2020054
there is definitely places that offer custom jerseys because there have been several /n/ jerseys made. the problem is that there's a flat cost so they only become worth it if you print, say, twenty and other people buy them, too.
>>
Looking for a stationary bike that I can use at my (height adjustable) desk. Any recommendations?
>>
>>2020058
>This is genius I am going to copy you
aw, shucks .
yeah, I got a huge box full of sunlite little round patches years ago, and some larger rectangular ones for larger tears and snakebites a while ago, something from Mexico with a thumbs-up logo. both were very cheap, I just used scamazon when I was buying other things and didn't even have to pay shipping. got the can of vulcanizing fluid there, too.
>>
>>2020062
wisdom .
particularly the final bit
>>
>>2020065
it means your housing/cable isn't long enough. there needs to be a little slack in it between the bar and the first cable stop on the frame.
somehow you used to have that before you re-wrapped. but it was probably just barely enough if something a trivial as wrapping your bars fucked it up.
>>
>>2020077
I bought a metric wrench set the cheapest at the big box hardware and it came with everything in one mm increments. not sure how you didn't get a 15 but you either lost it or somehow found a set even shittier than mine
>>
>>2020189
>there needs to be a little slack in it between the bar and the first cable stop on the frame.
*when the bar is turned all the way, that is. yours has slack in it straight right now, but it's getting pulled tight when you turn
>>
>>2020192
Some medium level kits here in the US skip since they can save shekels while providing you with a cheaper price.
Worst of both worlds.
>>
>tell my friend his tire is shot
>he pumps it up anyways
>i saw the pump myself, 35lbs
>4 HOURS LATER
>hear a boom from the back yard
>its that tire, ripped nearly 1/4 up the surface of the rim, let alone tube
i'm glad it happened when he wasn't on it but my word why are people so fucking stupid? it was obviously bad but he made every excuse not to believe me, and i got to hear it pop, ha
>>
>>2020192
2nd hand set, had like 7 metric spanners, and the about same number of imperial spanners
>>
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Has anyone tried shiftmate?
According to the chart, it should work on Campagnolo 8-9 speed shifters on any Campagnolo RD regardless if the latter is only compatible with friction shifting?
>>
>>2020264
It might work but I would be very, very impressed if it ever indexed well. Campy friction dr's from "back in the day" were technologically inferior to suntour and shimano; while they were driving forward the euros were resting on their laurels. They demand a lot of overshifting and trimming. My GUESS as to what would happen is: you shift, the chain hangs up and doesn't want to move over, you adjust the cable tension until it's enough for the chain to jump, now the chain is too far over and grinding on the next cog.

But that gizmo must be cheap right? Try it and report back for science
>>
>>2020271
$30
>>
>>2019907
Reminder that electrolysis works by "line of sight" only. Corrosion will come off of the charged object facing the electrode, but hidden areas, inside threads for example, will not be touched. The salt water might have done something but next time get some kroil
>>
>>2020264
I've heard people here say they use it, but never for campy. I be wary of the other anon's advice
>>
>>2019334
It's not the helmet making you look like a dork you're just a dork
>>
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>>2020264
I've seen a few of these in use and about 50% of the time they fray shift cables. Having seen that, back when I used to mix and match drivetrain parts I always stuck to the useful combinations that work without any extra parts: Campy 10 to Shimano 8 and Campy 9 to Shimano 7. Here's a picture of what was my "gravel" bike in 2014 using such a setup.
>>
>>2020274
I was using citric acid, not salt water, so either way it was dissolving iron oxide. Though maybe the electrolytic dissolution of iron oxide, or the production of hydrogen gas and subsequent increase of pH, would cause the typical de-rusting action of the citric acid to be less effective. I should buy some EDTA.
>>
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Why does my new chain make this sound and has the clicking effect if they're both 9 speed and cut to the same length?
>>>/wsg/5692840
>>
>>2020264
I feel like I'd rather use friction shifters over this jank shit
>>
>>2020349
Could be your rear derailleur laced wrong? Id put your bike upside down and cycling it and see if the chain is skipping anywhere. See picrel is often a tricky spot where you can get the chain laced incorrectly

Also could be your pedal, they often make bad clicking noises
>>
>>2020366
But the current chain (top) that I'm using works fine?
>>
>>2020349
your old chain has stretched out and is no longer the length it was when new. it is possible that the new chain is a link too long if you sized it to the stretched one.
or it could be something else
>>
>>2020367
the old one was for sure laced right.
are you sure you routed the chain exactly like the picture, including getting it above the little metal part the arrow points to?
it is extremely common to miss that. I've done it countless times, recently, even though I'm an oldfag
>>
Is it possible to put a chainguard on a crank like this?
>>
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anyone got any idea how to mount this clip light onto my bike? I couldn't find any bike lights that were good enough
zip ties?
>>
>>2020385
just pony up and get a good bike light, you fucking hillbilly.
>>
>>2020349
Are the teeth on your gears worn? Can you feel it skipping when it makes that noise? If yes to both, the chain is probably slipping off the teeth under torque.
>>
>>2020385
3D printed adapter
>>
>>2020416
I am not fucking spending 50 Euro for a shitty light with no features.
>>
>>2020426
For 50 buckazoids you can get a decent light with the relevant features that it will indicate your position to other traffic in the dark and you don't have to ask random anonymous strangers on the internet how to kludge it to your bike.
>>
>>2020426
While you're crossposting from /csg/, why not just buy a chinky bike light too? Or a chinky mount for a regular flashlight.
>>
>>2020428
because regular flashlights suck and have no features, and no bike lights cause germany has snowflake standards so they don't ship bike lights here.
and stuff on amazon is overpriced and barebones.
>>
>>2020436
I find it endlessly funny how actual germans can admit that stzvo is garbage anti-bike bullshit but bikelane urbanists from american flyover states will still jerk each other off about how your bike isn't safe unless its safety features get castrated by uniformed Ministerium für Staatssicherheit enforcement officers
>>
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>>2020436
do you want your retard bike light to blink to broadcast how retard you are
>>
tire says 100-120psi but silca calculator reccomends ~85psi. would it be okay to do 85 or should I stick to 100 psi
its a vitoria rubino pro G2.0 25mm if it matters
>>
>>2020264
>watch the videos of the guy who's autistically testing the shifters and the derailleurs to determine exactly how much cable pull is required to shift up or down one gear
>turns out for a lot of derailleurs, the cable pull for each gear step differs by as much as 30%
>the first and last gears need more cable pull, the middle ones less
>only the shifters from the exact same series as the derailleur will match the needed cable pull exactly
>this is the case every speed: 8, 9, 10, 11, 12
>you're guaranteed to never get perfect indexing unless you're using same generation
>>
>>2020458
85. SRAM calculator will probably recommend even lower.

Silca calculator has me at ~80 on 28s, SRAM says ~70. Supposedly for speed slightly low is better than slightly high, Norcal cycling has a video testing this
>>
>>2020441
having a beam cut off is a nice idea but I haven't seen anyone have their flashlight set properly, I always get blinded anyway.

>>2020442
what I want is a decent battery size, dual lens, type-c charging with decent battery and USBA output for when I need something to plug in.
that 5€ Ali light I linked has all that, and a COB on top which is also nice for when I want to look at my bike at night to solve some issue or to change a tube or something. and having a clip and a magnet means I don't have to hold it in my mouth
>>
>>2019175
Agree with the other poster, if you had good hubs or planned to find them then sure freewheel but if you're building fresh there's not a compelling reason to go free wheel over cassette.

>>2019425
Out of all the things all bike owners should know, tubes and tires are like 2nd behind cleaning and lubing the chain. If you ride, eventually you get a flat. If you ride for virtually any length of time you will deal with a flat and it's the kind of thing that takes 10min to learn how to do.

>>2019611
You can't easily replace the battery when it's built in like that. It's doable but it's whether the juice is worth the squeeze. I use a Fenix rear light for similar purpose. It was 20 bucks on bezos bucks a million and runs for 3 days of night riding on flash.

>>2019717
IMO you have to be rolling over some nasty stuff to make tires like that necessary. The new Strada for this year can do 35mm, that's plenty for gravel.
>>
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>>2020470
>having a beam cut off is a nice idea
nice idea if you don't ride bikes, maybe. a "properly set" cutoff is supposedly perfectly horizontal, so that waist-height objects get illuminated. except:

-some obstacles are higher than waist height, a commonly encountered example is loading docks on a delivery truck parked in the special "lane for bikes" (lol)

-since I don't actually live in amsterdam (REEEE EVERYTHING HAS TO REVOLVE AROUND AAAMSTERDAAAAAM), there's rolling terrain which means the strongest part of the beam is actually pointed up some non-trivial % of the time. likewise that part is pointed DOWN to the point of not illuminating oncoming peds/bicycles when I'm approaching the bottom of a slope. so I either get road raged at by having an unnecessarily focused laser beam pointed into someone's retina, or I crash into something that I didn't see

-one of the most important roles of a bike light is to make me visible in the rear view mirror so if I overtake the cager doesn't murder me, but a horizontal cutoff 20 inches above the ground is completely useless for that

in short, john forester did nothing wrong
>>
>>2020475
that makes sense actually.
>>
>>2020475
>-one of the most important roles of a bike light is to make me visible in the rear view mirror
living in fantasy land

no driver has ever seen a cyclist in their rear view mirror, ever.

your anti cutoff nonsense is possibly the worst take on /n/ currently
>>
>>2020499
you think this because you use gimped garbage lights approved by nazi germany. try running legit headlights for americans some time, you'll see the difference if you actually ride (you don't, so of course this is irrelevant)
>>
>>2020502
i own niggerlumen flashlights and i don't use them in the city because i'm not a cunt.

I'd rather you post about your cool night time trail riding than cry about sensible basic equipment.
>>
>>2020503
>I don't ride
yes, it was clear from your earlier post
>>
>>2020504
i see zero evidence you do the kind of riding that would even vaguely make sense for the shit you're promoting
>>
>>2020505
why do you even care if you don't ride on roads with cars?
>>
>>2020507
i ride on roads with cars all the time
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>>2020508
I hoped it would have been obvious from the context but since it clearly wasn't, by "ride" I mean on a bicycle
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>>2020510
why are you such a dick ?
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>>2020475
If you want to be visible in a rear view mirror, get some big panels of retroreflective material, maybe also electroluminescent panels. Some LED filaments might work ok, but they seem too delicate to me. A bike-shaped high surface area of moderate brightness is much better than a blinding point-source from a mystery source. Do it yourself.

Actual illumination is a different story, these two could easily be entirely seperate lights. If you can't see obstacles in front of you then either:
>you're not somewhere urbanised enough to have street-lights, so just use a bright flashlight
>you're blind

The other anon's suggestion of a head-lamp is neat, as it allows you to follow the terrain with the beam, dipping it away from human eyes where necessary. Of course, this prevents you from bobbing your head to your bike-mounted boom-box.
>>
Do new cranks typically come with the preload cap?
Mine came without it and I'm wondering if I should take it up with the store of if it's normal.
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>>2020524
yeah that's an idea. or I could just keep doing what I'm doing. there was a time when I thought it was placebo so I went stvzo like a moron. one destroyed fork and one bloodied hand later (two separate occasions) cured me of that delusion. went back to safety and I've been incident free for tens of thousands miles. seems like my options are be safe, or be lambasted by nobike cagers on 4chan, I wonder what the right choice is here... hmmm.....
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>>2020535
Definitely not normal, I'd take it back. No one is expected to have a preload cap on hand
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Mountain biker looking into getting a road bike. I ride a hightower right now. Any guide for what to look for in road bikes? Probably would spend 2-3k, probably used. Brands comparable to like Santa Cruz?
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>>2020524
Euro govs are super stingy so streetlights are dim as all fuck.
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>>2020547
Sounds like what you need is a full dura ace cervelo from about 8 years ago. Sure it would be unnecessarily fragile and have past-their-prime components, but at least everyone will know you don't settle for anything less than what used to be the best (according to the retired dentist you bought it from)
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>>2020547
Cervelo is literally owned by the same company that owns Santa Cruz and targets the same "dentists in mid-life crisis" market.
>>
Is it worth upgrading a yari rc with like 2000 miles to a fox 36? I’m either gonna get my yari serviced or upgrade, I can’t decide
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>>2020535
yes, they're always included with shimano cranks. there are different ones as well, so make sure you get the correct one.
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my ass is always sopping wet when I ride. like actually visibly wet.
any solution?
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Who was in the wrong here?
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>>2020591
80/20 I think, car is at 80% fault for performing a lane change without signalling and not giving enough space for the biker but the biker is an idiot too for letting go of the handlebars which prevented them from stopping a preventable collision
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>>2020588
From sweat? If so, then not having a backpack on makes a big difference, it's why I got a rear luggage rack with my backpack strapped to it with bungees. I then wear that really lightweight short-sleeved gym-ware. Even if it's cold, I'll keep the shorts on and put a thin windbreaking coat on, and as I warm up I'll take my hands off the handlebar, take off the jacket, and tuck it under the bungees behind me. It is a pain taking the gloves off then putting them on again though.

If it's from rain spraying up your wheel, then a rear luggage rack also prevents that nicely.
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Are Mosso forks on Aliexpress good/safe?
Are aluminium forks suitable for an everyday bike or should I look for a steel one?
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>>2020595
I don't have a backpack and I wear thin clothes... it is sweat
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should I go with nordeast or straight bars?
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>>2020591
the bike just ran into the car instead of braking. this was not a life-and-death situation, he just ran into the car.
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>>2020605
everyone says carbon and steel "absorb road buzz" while alu rattles the fillings out of your teeth, but I regularly ride a full alu frameset and don't really notice this.
iunno if it's just me, but people also say that the frame material doesn't matter as much as the framebuilder's ability to craft the frame sensibly to a compliant ride, so that ought to extend to the fork, too
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>>2020613
I personally prefer some sweep but I don't ride hardcore trails, just some dirt and gravel foot trails. not sure it matters but it could
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is it normal for new top caps on headsets to come loose a little? i got a new headset plug and preloaded it perfectly, but it got a little loose and started rattling over time. easy fix but a bit annoying.
>>2020588
>>2020611
what kind of saddle do you use? i'd recommend getting one with a cutout, and a hard surface instead of soft gel if that's what you've got.
>>2020591
first the car for cutting the bike off, then the bike for tailgating and taking his hands off the brakes. even if you're in the right, it's not worth getting angry like that, certainly not if it puts you in danger.
>>2020613
i personally like the straight bars just because they look cool, but unless you're only doing short urban rides the other one is more comfortable.
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>>2020636
Both these things are true.
I grew up on an aluminum mountain bike and never noticed any road buzz issues but now that I have a cr-mo steel bike I can definitely tell what they meant. a good aluminum bike is great but a bad one can wreck your whole experience.
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>>2020637
nah, it's for a fixed gear with 700c tires so I'm probably not going to be going off-road at all on it, I'm working on fixing up a Mongoose Excursion mountain bike I found for that
>>2020657
It actually is basically for short urban rides, I live about a mile down the road from the store I work at so commuting there and back would be the most common use.
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>>2020660
for fixed gear bullhorn/pursuit bars are pretty sweet as well, or straight up drops
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>>2020662
I'm switching from some fyxation pursuit bar, and I already have a pair of drops but I'm not a fan of riding with them on this bike's geometry
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Is it worth to install this derailleur protector? Or it's just some extra unnecessary weight? Riding in forests and in city mostly
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>>2020668
>altus
I don't think you need to worry about a couple of extra grams. If you want to be rough with your bike, go for it
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>>2020669
I don't want to be rough, but today I almost fell once or twice on bumpy/muddy road and it got me thinking if such protector would save my derailleur in case of an accident.
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>>2020671
They certainly help a lot but it's not 100%
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Is 24 not a common number of spokes on rims for road bikes? I'm really having a hard time trying to find a 700c rim with that many holes. Is it a fixie rim or something?
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>>2020613
explain to me how a straight fucking pipe can cost $43 usd
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>>2020684
multiples of 6 are gay and thats a fact
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>>2020687
it's not a straight pipe, it's butted internally and bulged for the clamp

nitto are expensive because they're made in japan and extensively tested (with hydraulic machines that cycle use thousands of times)

Although I would agree that a narrow straight handlebar is ridiculous to spend $40 on, because they're extremely common takeoff parts from retro mtbs that people put risers on, high quality ones, and practically free.
And it doesn't make sense for it to be steel either
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>>2020657
actually do have a saddle with a cutout... but it's a super thickboi extreme for fat boy ass
I should probably get a different one but I have wide hips and regular ones are too small for me
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>>2020687
nitto's brand name value and the fact it's produced in japan. but yeah, i would personally just get a cheap aluminium bar.
>>2020699
yeah the gel padding is the issue, get a leather one instead if you want to sweat less. also you don't actually need a saddle that is that wide, as long as it supports your sitbones.
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>>2020710
smaller saddles don't support my sit bones
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>>2020733
then get a wide brooks saddle or something
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>>2020699
how far do you typically ride? i like padded seats but only for 10 miles or so, so commuters basically. they become noticeably worse at like 15. i think they have a place though for that 10 mile and sub ride scenarios and comfort is more important
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>>2020738
that looks uncomfortable as all fuck

>>2020741
15km there 15 back
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>>2020687
it's not a straight pipe. it's butted, plus there is knurling.
they have excellent product quality control.
nitto is literally the gold standard of handlebars that everything else compares to or aspires to imitate.
crmo is more expensive steel compared to stainless or hi tensile steel.
there is no such thing as free shipping, only hidden shipping costs.
the bar cost them about 1/3 of that price, roughly 1/3 of the price is profit for the seller and the rest goes to Amazon to pay for fees and shipping and all that jazz.
I love a good deal as much as the next guy but if I want something nice that's considered the highest quality in its industry I do expect I'll have to pay a nice sum.
>>
Where the fuck do I search for rims based on size? I'm looking for a 650b, 558-561 ERD, 36 hole, aluminum, doesn't cost over $100. Shouldn't searching for such a thing be a simple task?
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Why would the guide packaged with replacement time atac cleats imply the 17 deg setting was 'Not for cyclo/gravel pedals'? I've always ran them 17 deg and was about to replace them just like that when this confused me.
Do they mean any of their presumed earlier models of pedals that were literally named 'cyclo' and 'gravel'? Do they mean not to go XC with the 17 deg setting? Or do they really mean do not run the 17 deg setting with XC series pedals, only with the MTB specific pedals?
What could go wrong and why? Accidentally unclipped yesterday night but I was tipsy...
I'm on XC6s mostly btw.
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>>2020777
Being fussy about ERD before even knowing your options is ridiculous.
All your options pretty much will be aluminium.

So really you're just looking for a 36h 650b rim.

Internal rim width, ie, what tires you might run, and whether it has a brake track or not are the key stats which you haven't mentioned.

The number of 650b rims on any one store and in general will be pretty small so there's no need to search amongst them for anything specific, you're just going to be looking at 1 page of items. Unless you're asking for some kind of search that will aggregate all webstores for you? Those kinds of things exist but they're anti competition and you will also be letting a lot of badly listed good deals slip through.
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anybody know what pedal straps work with these pedals?
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>>2020788
None, because there's no slot to run the strap through. Pedal straps are stupid anyway, if you want better foot retention and you already have a pinned pedal like that, just go clipless.
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>>2020788
>>2020793
Several variants of hipster retention straps exist that do not need to be run through slots but attach at either end. 'Pedalbelt' and 'powergrips' spring to mind. There was a sea of similar items back then, every barista who had access to his moms sewing machine sold his personal flavour on etsy 20 or so years ago. Some of that shit might still be around.
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>>2020775
I wonder if you would ever notice the difference under your hands compared to a cheap aluminum version.
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>>2020777
where I shop the site has excellent filters.
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why are clipped pedals called clipless?
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Want to get a bike for my commute and maybe, it's not very long (~3 mi). It should be mostly road or sidewalk driving. I'm pretty heavy and 6 feet tall. Any suggestions or starting points for research? I haven't had a bike in years so assume I have no knowledge of bike terms.
I do know that I will want fenders to keep clean and maybe a front basket or something to hold luggage on.
>>
>>2020832
>>2020832
it only makes sense in the historical context. originally, if you wanted foot retention, you bought the clips in pic related. so when the integrated shoes and pedals came out, they were "clipless," when really it was just a different type of clip.
it's like talking about contemporary art and calling it "modern." the idiots in the mid-tewntieth century called their style Modern, and now anything more modern than Modern cannot be called modern. you have to say "current" or "contemporary" or something.
it's gay, but we're stuck with both
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>>2020835
>It should be mostly road or sidewalk driving
a road bike. either a basic new one or used.
>>2020835
>not very long (~3 mi).
really anything will work. an old 90s mtb with no suspension (heavy and shitty for road. "b-but I'm heavy!" shut up) with slick tires is fine. hybrid or gravel is fine.
>>2020835
>I'm pretty heavy
just make sure the wheels have at least 32 spokes and you're good. if used, squeeze the spokes together all the way around and if any feel notably loose take them to get tensioned and trued. especially if you look at the tire tread straight on and the wheels wobble side-by-side when you spin them.
>>2020835
so you need eyelets on the "dropouts" to attach fenders and many racks. on a steel bike, the eyelets are sometimes called "braze-ons". you can put a rack and fender on the same eyelet. anyway, some front racks mount to the fork further up on the fork blades. so if your fork has that, you can get whatever rack you want, but if not you need one that mounts to the dropout or you can get adapters. I use some Tubus adapters and they're solid af.
>but fats need special stuff
not really other than the wheel thing. also you want wide-ish tires (28-35mm, 32 is common) but new road bikes pretty much all come with clearance for them. watch out for used roadies, the older frames and forks had narrow clearances, depending on the model they might be wide though. mtb or hybrid or gravel will all have wide clearance.
fat people can enjoy a normal road bike, pic related
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>>2020840
Thanks anon. I'll keep your advice in mind.
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>>2020841
forgot to say that road bikes come in "touring" and "sport-tourer" styles , which in the old days meant they had wider tire clearance and more endurance frame geo. so an old touring frame would be more likely to work for you. the Japanese makers favored this type of bike back in the day , even if they didn't explicitly call it a sport-tourer.
I think the new market uses the term "endurance road bike"? I can't remember but it's something like that . but mostly all new roadies have wide tire clearance.
another bike term for tall and large riders is "clydesdale." not sure the industry uses it but people on forums use it
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>>2020841
oh, saddle fit. stock saddles are usually for twinks and suck in other ways. you "perch" on the saddle with your weight distributed between your feet on the pedals, some weight on the arms on the bars, and the slight majority on the saddle.
a saddle that fits you is wider than the distance your "sit bones" are, and that extra width varies: the more aggressive your riding posture is, the less extra width. how the sitbones engage with the saddle varies with how leaned-over you are.
the upshot is you have to try different stuff, but mashing your assbones into corrugated cardboard and measuring will give you data to start with . also, when noob, even a perfect saddle will hurt the soft tissue over the sitbones until your body gets used to cycling. there's differing charts out there, try different stuff .
also look up saddle height, very important. it will feel weird when it's correct, if you want to start a *little* lower at first it's ok (you're going to do it anyway) but you need to mentally divorce yourself from "I want to put both feet flat on the ground when stopped". you can dismount and stand on both feet, or stay seated and lean over and put one foot flat on the ground and keep the other on the pedal
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>>2020793
There are slots on the sides but it's very narrow and I'd have to take out a couple of screws to really use them. I could then poke a little hole in the strap and put the screws back in if I really wanted them there. But the straps have to be pretty thin
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>>2020822
Yes you can feel the difference between aluminum, steel, and carbon bars, but the biggest difference between them imo is how well they handle crashes and general abuse
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>>2020846
>>2020844
Thanks for all the info anon.
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>>2020854
>how well they handle crashes and general abuse
do not buy carbon. its so unsafe its crazy. never get it under any circumstance. go alu or titanium
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>>2020929
Shut up retard
>>
Is this a good deal?
https://philadelphia.craigslist.org/bik/d/devon-fuji-supreme-hybrid-bike/7790016779.html
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>>2020954
it's a pretty small frame. if you're a grill or a manlet it's a decent bike. for that price, the only new stuff you can get is Walmart trash, and even those can go for more than that nowadays.
it's solid, but I would leave it alone if you're average height or tall
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>>2020958
I'm 6' so I guess that's out, thanks. I'm not locked to that budget but I'd like to get something cheap just in case commuting by bike doesn't work out.
>>
This Pokémon bike has bothered me for years. Is that white thing over the wheel supposed to be a rack? I've never seen anything like it.
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>>2020959
so I no longer have this file and the archive only has it in a blurry thumbnail but read this post.
modern geometry has the top tube slanted not horizontal as was traditional and other changes that have done away with this tell. but you're going to want a traditional frame in the 60-63cm range, (maybe a high 50s if it's a good one, but too large is no go) or a large or extra large modern frame .
the headtube on your pic, and the left bike in the archive pic, is so small that the top tube and downtube touch where they join the headtube. you want a lot of headtube with the other tubes spaced way out, like the right in the pic, if you can make it out
https://archived.moe/n/thread/1174456/#1179339
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>>2020961
there used to be kickstands that functioned like that on the old WW2 era British roadsters, but nothing like that would ever be on a full-suspension mtb. but the artist obviously knows nothing about bikes, so maybe that's what he was going for
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>>2020968
I think I understand, I'll keep it in mind. Unfortunately the used bike market is really slim pickings where I'm at so I may just have to spring for a cheapo new bike, in which case I'll definitely be checking out the sizing in person.
>>
Is it better to buy a $300 bike from a bike shop than Walmart ?
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>>2020984
there are $300 bikes from a shop?
surely these are reserviced used bikes? in which case I would say yes. but any new bike costing $300 is sus. an adult sized bike from Walmart is $200-250 now, and those are not recommended
>>
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>>2020668
Derailleur protectors may protect the derailleur but are a total risk factor for your frame.
The derailleur is attached to a piece of metal (hanger) that is designed to snap under exceeding stress levels (like if you smash against a rock), and to be replaceable. That's intended to save the frame. Once you install a derailleur cage, you might save your hanger (not necessarily the derailleur per se), but kill your frame.

Those contraption are only useful if you want to protect something FROM the derailleur. Like you commute on a train\car with your bike and you don't want everybody and everything to be greased up by the derailleur. Or you just want to be able to LEAN your bike on that part.
>>
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Hey, I need help. I have recurring knee pain from cycling. it's also on bottom/inside of kneecap. I'll wait weeks for it to clear up but as soon as I ride it comes back. Currently seeing a physiotherapist for it and other shit, but was wondering if I'm set up right. Any help would be appreciated.
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>>2021249
Also I just got clipless pedals and as I expected I bailed on my first ride with them cause I forgot to unclip.
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>>2021249
when your heel is on the pedal leg should be straight, if it's not - raise saddle
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>>2021249
>physiotherapist
if you're already shelling out money to one professional, you may as well get a professional bike fit. I don't know a lot about it but I think certain Specialized or Trek dealers have a fit machine that shines lasers on your butt, and other bike shops in good standing have old timers that have been doing it for decades.
that said, nothing about your pic seems off to my eye, but I know my fit by feel, not because I can see myself in profile so I'm not an expert or anything
>>
>>2021311
or just do this >>2021309 and fiddle with saddle position a bit. and posture.



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