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"Winter randonneuring" edition

Resources:
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/
https://www.parktool.com/en-us/blog/repair-help
RJ the bike guy on youtube

Previous: >>2018905
>>
How many of you have ever gotten high and gone riding? I was honestly pretty fucked up yesterday but felt so amazing and went for a ride. I felt even better, I was on cloud fucking 9 dude. Listening to my favorite music, pedaling hard, probably harder than I have in weeks or months, breathing hard as hell but still able to breathe well. I know it was probably irresponsible to do but I can't admit it made me feel so happy
>>
>>2020998
Can not be high and exercise. Get lazy as shit. Plus, I guess I go out to be sober, basically, and when I'm messed up it just feels like there's a shower curtain or something between me and the trees and everything and it seems weird. There have been a few times sharing a J with a friend in a farm field that were awfully nice though.
>>
Looking for a decent 26'' tyre for commuting.
I know this comes up a lot, and Marathon Plus always gets a lot of recommendations, but fuck me if they weigh almost 1 KG each!

Most of us here are fine with fixing the occasional flat. at least I am, and I really don't want to destroy my ride quality to slightly reduce the chance of getting flats.
There MUST be a good compromise tyre out there, with a decent mix of comfort, low roling resistance, puncture protection and lack of excess weight.

I have used Rene Herse in the past, and they really are great in all the above criteria, but they ain't cheap. Is there anything else that approaches them in all areas, falls a bit short but costs a bit less?
>>
>>2020998
I've done it in the past and it's a lot of fun of course, but I try to avoid riding on any kind of intoxicant after I got in a bad crash on the way home from a bar after drinking I don't even know how many shots of whisky. PSA: you're always fine and you've done it before and you've always done it and nothing is going to happen, until it does. I know you'll reply with snark and >skill issue because it's 4chan but if you keep pushing your luck because you're invincible, sooner or later you'll find out the hard way
>>
>>2021007
Regular marathons (I think they're called marathon green, now) offer enough protection for a city.
I've heard good things about Conti contact urbans, too, which should be even lighter than Marathons. If your city isn't a hellscape riddled with debris, feel free to try these.
>>
>>2021007
>they weigh almost 1 KG each
git gud leglet, that's a momentum feature, not a bug.
>>
>>2021015
nta but people who aren't obese notice things like that more. it's great that you're getting into cycling though! keep it up!
>>
>>2021016
Obese people wouldn't be so if they actually rode a bicycle.
>>
>>2021016
or maybe you're just weak
>>
What's your guy's thoughts on the Schwinn Crosscut? I may be able to get one for 160, is it a good deal?
>>
>>2021007
Ribmos
Paselas
Almotions
Top contacts
>>
>>2021029
Basic hybrid bikes under that brand/model name have been offered for several decades, so this isn't a simple question. But if it's a used bike (or a new one from a retailer that isn't a bike shop) it's probably fine for $160, just know that some basic maintenance/adjustments will likely be needed if you want it to work well.
>>
>>2021044
Thanks, I entirely expect having to do some tinkering at 160 but I'm thinking of it like having to frontload training, I'd want to be able to repair my bike anyways so better to learn sooner rather than later.
>>
I'm thinking of getting into biking. I don't want to spend too much because I have a feeling that I might buy a bike than never use it. What is a good road bike for an entry-level person? I would use it to bike on my local trail that is paved once a month (maybe more or less). I'm looking for something preferably below $1K, but if that is a shit amount to get into this hobby, feel free to let me know. Also, should I buy it online or in person?
>>
>>2021048
I hate to push lamestream brands but sometimes it makes sense. Everyone I see on a Domane seems to love their bike. I would never buy one because I'm a hipster but there's something to be said for going with what's popular.

If you live in the west, go to your local Trek store (seems like they're everywhere these days) and ask to try either a Domane AL G4 or a Domane AL2 Rim. Do not even consider a Domane AL G3, it has cable dicks, you'll regret it forever.

If you get the Domane AL2 Rim you should probably budget for some fatter and more comfy tires but if you're a strong and aggressive rider it might not matter so much.

Since we're going into winter, you should budget for some lights too.
>>
>>2021048

>>2021059
not sure but doesn't the Giant TCR fit into this category?
>>
>>2021064
TCR is literally a race bike, so unless anon wants a boomer tier riser stem or is just incredibly flexible and strong, it's not really ideal as babby's first bike
>>
>>2021048
Echoing what previous anon said, if you're a novice and want a new drop bar bike, you should get an aluminum bike from one of the big brands in the endurance/all road category. These are all capable and versatile bikes and the most approachable drop bar options. Contend AR, Domane AL, Allez, Synapse, etc. Odds are very good that whatever bike shop is closest to you will have at least one of these in stock.
>>
>>2021048
i personally like my caad optimo, but if you're new to biking altogether and don't care as much about going fast i'd go for and endurance/gravel bike rather than a road bike as it's a bit more of a forgiving ride with wider tires and more upright/casual geometry
>>
>>2020998
Somewhat regularly, being high and biking is great shit. I think that it's way different than drunk, definitely less of an irresponsibility
>>
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If I add 6 cm front damper to this bike, will it ruin its geometry?
>>
>>2021075
You might notice the steering feels a little more sluggish at slower speeds, but on a bike like that I don't think it matters. Add a suspension fork if you want to.
>>
>>2021048
>Nobody saying "post local craigslist"

What is going on here. The man said he wants to ride on a rail trail once a MONTH, for chrissake, he should be spending $150 on an old mtb
>>
>>2021105
I agree, but for a complete noob it’s hard to know what to look out for when buying used and if he’s willing to spend the money on a bike with warranty that just werks it’s a good idea to buy new
>>
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>>2021105
This dude knows what's up
It's amazing how much Kool aid the cycling industry has distributed among the populace, that people think they need to drop a grand to ride the rail trail.
>>
>>2021048
You can accomplish your goals for less than $200. Buy an old mtb or road bike that's been tuned up. You're riding so infrequently that it would make absolutely no sense to start with the bikes everyone is recommending.
>>
>>2021117
I agree, but when he said his budget was $1000 I just assumed he was wanting a new bike
>>
>>2021105
for somebody who is new to cycling buying a rusty old POS is not always the best advice, having a warranty and maintenance/repairs from a LBS can be very helpful.
>he should be spending $150 on an old mtb
maybe he wants something nicer? i get the value for money argument but there's nothing wrong with buying something more expensive if you can afford it, not everybody on here is a broke neet
>>
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>>2021116
>>2021117
Some people aren't broke NEETs and would rather buy something safe that works properly than deal with junkies trying to flip stolen oh sorry "abandoned" bikes with severe crash damage
>>
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>>2021131
So? If he wasn't interested in our opinions, he'd go to a nerby bike shop and bought himself a bike recommended by dealer. But since he asked US - he clearly wants OUR opinion.

In MY opinion he shoud do what I did - check his family basement and find an old (but not broken) bike, service it and ride for a while to see if he likes that kind of activity. If he likes that and keeps riding for some time, he can go and buy himself modern, new bike. Simple as.

It's exactly what I did - I took some old bike, started to ride it and upgrade it. I've put into it something like 300$ so far and it rides like a charm (also - I found out I actually enjoy working on it, hunting parts I want etc). I've promised myself that if I keep riding on it for a full year, I'll buy myself a gravel for 3000-4000$ because I'm not a neet and actually can afford such bicycle.
Pic related. Already bought new front wheel to match rear, new freewheel (megarange) and proper shifters.
>>
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>>2021011
>>2021015
>>2021038
Thanks for the replies friends, I'll investigate all these recommendations
>>
>>2021137
You're entitled to your opinion, but my counterpoint to that is that I always found expensive bikes unappealing and intimidating until an acquaintance let me ride his fredded out top of the line road bike. I couldn't afford one at the time (it was $4000) and I probably won't spend that much as a single complete bicycle in the foreseeable future, but it certainly did open my mind to the idea of bikes being a lot more fun than I thought they were, and I already was predisposed to like bicycles, just not expensive bicycles.

There's something to be said for NEETing it up and getting the most for your NEETbux but if you're going around telling people who were prepared to spend $1000 (which is not even close to an unreasonable amount) that they're an idiot for not buying a rusted out BSO, other people are going to call you out for being a joyless bitter NEET.
>>
>>2021140
I think my doing is reasonable one. You see - I tend to obsese about various things, keep googling about it, watching YT videos about it - and then finnaly buying it, having fun for a week and then puting it away, never to use again. This time at least I'll know if my enthusiasm was not short-lived. Since that anon sounds kinda like me - I think he can safely follow my steps.
>>
>>2021138
holy shit that's a cool bike. is this what you're buying commuter tires for?
>>
>>2021140
I mean, all he has to do is post the listings of the used bikes he's looking at and we'll tell him the pros and cons, or just his local CL and we'll pick one out for him . if he's already asking in this thread, then he's not going to get a rusted out bso shitbox, so there's the solution to your whole argument . but if his budget is $1000 then he probably wants a new bike anyway
>>
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>>2021138
That is an amazing vehicle holy shit
>>
>>2021138
is that an ancient cantilever brake?
pic from the front please
>>
>>2021048
meant to include you here>>2021187
>>
Did my first century a couple weeks ago wearing normal clothes. Padded shorts next time. Also pre-opening all my food so I don't have to open wrappers on the bike. Knees were rekt the next day but fine the day after. Need to try a drop-bar bike
>>
>>2021211
this is the questions thread.
try /drt/ next time.
good on you for the century, though.
>>
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>>2021196
it's a 1930's era Resilion cantilever brake
>>
>>2021246
so this is just a picture you found on the internet. got it
>>
>>2021138
thee speed IGH and you just change sprockets by hand ?
>>
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>>2021248
>>
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I’ve not looked this up but if I’m running 6 speed on a 126 hub does it make sense to move the spacers over? I need to re-dish the rim slightly anyway but would rather not mess around with the hub (given I lazily just paid a mechanic to replace a bent axel).
>>
>>2021246
>>2021248
It's John Finley Scott's "Woodsie Bike" from the early 50's. A lot of people call it the first mountain bike although I think at that point you could find plenty of examples from 100+ years ago. Interestingly, he lived in the same area as the repack guys and ended up investing a lot of money in ritchie/kelly/fisher mountain bikes. He also lobbied with John Forester at one point.

He was also murdered by a "Charles Kevin Cunningham" who was a "handyman" on his property. I can't figure out if it's THE Charlie Cunningham and it's driving me crazy. You'd think it would at least be addressed. Kind of seems like a hush job among mountain bike writers
>>
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>>2021252
combining a derailleur and IGH makes no sense to me, you get the inefficiency of an IGH but with the wear and maintenance of a derailleur since you can't fully encase the drivetrain like you can with a single rear sprocket
>>
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>>2021261
It was that Charlie Cunningham.

A lot of people in that scene revere Charlie as something of a God amongst men, and JFS was a known alcoholic and had a short violent temper. It's generally agreed that JFS had it coming, and Charlie probably had no choice.
>>
Anyone have experience with Aliexpress groupsets? Name brand shit is too expensive now, at least for the midrange and up stuff.
>>
>>2021307
Post the “too expensive” option you were looking at. Obviously if you determined it to be too expensive, you must’ve seen both the product and the price
>>
>>2021313
Ultegra
>>
>>2021307
>>2021314
Go 105, if you know what you're doing go used.
Otherwise check out trace velo, he rides chink gruppos and reviews
>>
>>2021314
Just mix and match
A lot of people run ultegra shifters with 105 because they have the reach adjust
Also I wouldn't trust a bonded shimano crankset now
>>
>>2020998
I wish I was a richfag with a horse so I could get drunk and ride around town in full medieval armor on my similarly armored horse
>>
>>2020978
As there is no /bbg/ anymore i want to ask you guys here.
Currently looking for a roadbike in the 5-6k€ range and wondering if i could get something better than say an canyon aeroad or ultimate with DI2. Cervelos and other boutique brands seem way overpriced and 6k buys you literal 105 groupsets.
There are some custom brands around me that would bikefit me a steelframed roadbike with ultegra groupset and alloy wheels for that money but i really dont want to spend 6k for a steel bike honestly.
What would you get personally for that money? And no i dont want a "juSt get a 90's RoAdBice with shirmano 1856 you'lL saVe so mucH Moneys
>>
Why are "branded" bicycle lights $40 when you can get decent ones off aliexpress for $3.99?
>>
>>2021286
Eenteresting... the story goes that CC had forged a check from JFS and said he would "confront" him about it. So what you're saying makes some sense. I'd sure love to have that bike
>>
>>2020998
de rigour in the 19th century was nitroglycerin, cocaine, ether and espresso, that would carry the first tour of france riders through the high alps and the pyraneese, back when stages were 400 km long and no support was provided and they rode fixies with one gear and men were men.

getting stoned and cycling is awesome but smoking anything will fuck up your respiratory system.
>>
>>2021358
I've been riding with lights since before most of you were born, I ordered custom-made lights back in the 90s where they cut the wiring to fit my frame (I sent the measurements) and the system was like $250 in like 1998. granted prices have come down some and you can get a fantastic light for $100

I have, once, bought a light that cost $30 just to see what it was like, and it was shit. just shit

so I'm going to have to say doubt.exe to your claim but hey, maybe I'm wrong. even if it does light things up, is it going to burn your house down when you recharge it? no thanks
>>
>>2021358
Because you don't know what you're getting with AliExpress. If you wanna waste your time having to maybe get a dud light or one that's not nearly as bright or has a fried battery then you win by saving big.

I think that generally speaking you can find a middle road. The cheapest shit on AliExpress is true crap. But there exists brands that charge a bit more and give you actually comparable products to name brand.

My front light is sofirn which is from china and it's a fucking headlight it's so bright. I also use a lot of ztto tools and for simple shit like a chain whip or a tubeless plugger it's way better than name brand.
>>
>>2021380
Sorry, it's not better than name brand. But it's good enough and a fraction of the price. I wouldn't buy cheap hex wrenches or bb tools, but how can you fuck up something like a cleaning brush or a headset extractor
>>
>>2021352
Frame geo and built quality matter more than the groupset. You can upgrade the groupset later, but if the geo doesn't suit your body or the build quality is shit, you're fucked.

You also can get a bikefit to determine which carbon bike is best for you. Find a guy who isn't affiliated with a specific bike shop.
>>
>>2021286
>It was that Charlie Cunningham.
>revere Charlie as something of a God amongst men
Typical /bqg/. Some idiot making a definitive statement, and they're just fucking wrong.

Charlie Cunningham, bike cunt, was born in 1948.
Charles Cunningham, thief/murderer, was 47 in 2006.
2006-47=1959

Or you could read any number of articles from back in the day, and quickly surmise that this in-and-out-of-jail 'handyman' wasn't the same guy.
>>
>>2021286
That's a cool looking bike, why don't they make bikes like that now?
>>
Commuting to work this winter on a flat bar hybrid (Trek 7.2 FX). How fucked am I? In Michigan BTW.
>>
>>2021413
Because aluminum frames are gay and threaded steerers are dead for MTB. Everything else about that bike is selling like hotcakes right now
>>
>>2021399
based fact-checker
>>
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>>2021029
Sounds reasonable
>>2021307
I run L-twoo R9 11 speed on my main road bike. I love it. I was using Dura-ace R9001 shifters until some fat spic cleaning lady stepped on them in my hotel room, now I use the included R9 shifters. Clunky, but usable. Definitely the weakest part of the set. 90 dollars for the ders. and shifters.

Is he right about fixies bqg?
>>
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>>2021482
Here's the groupset
>>
>>2021413
they're called gravel bikes now

>>2021441
Depends on how good your kit is. If you have good clothing and appropriate kit (pogies, studded tires for pavement or fatbike if you're rolling over packed snow) riding in winter conditions can be just as easy and enjoyable as the rest of the year.

>>2021482
I think so, yes. The idea that fixies are different, special, unusual to the rest of bike culture is certainly a part of the appeal. Thinking of bikes as being 'coded' is just one possible way of describing that appeal and not everyone has to understand things in the same way.
>>
>>2021459
Looks completely devoid of soul
>>
How do you ride for more than an hour without getting bored?
>>
>>2021482
Lol if any bike is "white coded" it is probably the hipster sled

>>2021399
So strange. What are the odds, I mean, if his name was John Smith, that I might understand. Still weird that I've never seen anyone talk about it say "Charles Cunningham (NO RELATION)"
>>
>>2021504
Do you live in Nebraska or something?
>>
How did you learn to trackstand? How was it when it clicked for you? I'm training for two months straight at this point and I still can't stand for shit, only can ride in small circles very slowly. People say it's much easier to do on incline as it allows your bike to ride back on its own but every time I stop the bike just starts falling without moving back at all.
Honestly, I feel like giving up, this just feels plain impossible, at least on a freewheel.
>>
>>2021482
>white coded
are brownoids really that insecure?
>>
>>2021483
god i love silver frames
>>
>>2021515
Several things affect a bike's stability during a trackstand: tire pressure, incline, your position on the bike and the frame's geometry. Try lowering the tire pressure and your position on the bike, that makes it quite a bit easier.
I learned how to trackstand on a city bike with a slack headtube and steep seattube. Modern "aggressive" bike geometry is very stable and forgiving.
Fixed gear bikes are also easier to trackstand on
>>
>>2021515
Just ride more.

Especially spend more time climbing steep hills, whether that's on a road or mtb, but i would suggest a road bike.
Your balance will improve controlling the bike with power at slower speeds and riding out of the saddle.

I can trackstand forever, i can do it and take a water bottle from the frame and drink, or no hands. Can't really ride fixed even, i can't do a skid. I can't wheelie.
Being good at doing a trackstand is very useful if you ride clipless
>>
>>2021520
the person who wrote that post is white, you dunce
>>
>>2021528
i dont think you got the guy youre responding to
>>
>>2021523
>>2021526

These are actually useful advices I haven't seen anywhere else, thanks.
>>
>the overwhelming urge to build a minivelo to rip around all road surfaces on
I want one so bad. They look so fun.
>>
>>2021572
do it.
>>2021483
god dammit, fix your bars and hoods.
>>2021380
>for simple shit like a chain whip or a tubeless plugger it's way better than name brand.
sorry, the best plugs are dynaplug. i don't make the rules.
>>
>>2021380
>My front light is sofirn
the BS01? good light for the money. what do you have for rear light?
>>
>>2021572
You must do it and post here. Drop bar with 20x2.0 tires
>>
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>>2021572
>>
>>2021605
Picture yourself on that bike. You'll look very stupid
>>
>>2021607
This. I wanted a brompton for a long time just for n1 reasons but then i saw someone actually ride it and got the idea out of my head really fast. I does in fact look really fucking stupid.
>>
>>2021613
Consider the possibility that the real problem is the owners. There's ali express knockoffs now and the people who ride those don't look stupid
>>
>>2021614
No even the knockoffs look like shit. I mean, do you really really need a folding dwarf bike? You have so many disadvantages compared to a full sized bike its really not worth it if we're honest.
Weight is also a concern and a big part of portability. A city oriented single speed or roadbike can easily get under 7-8kg while most folding bikes are much heavier.
>>
>>2021615
Personally no I don't really see the need for one in my life. I have a pretty good bike share network in my area for transportation, and I have a fredded out crabbon fred machine for when I gotta go fast. I've honestly tried to rationalize buying either a mini velo or a folder but there are so many other things I'd rather do/buy, it's just consoomerism for my personal situation

But are you really saying there is no use case for a folding bike for anyone anywhere, because if so I would suggest you touch some grass
>>
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>>2020978
Do any of yous'll commute your kids to school during the winter months? What do you do to keep them warm and dry?
I'm planning on dressing them in their rain-kit for the rainy season and snow-kit for when it gets cold. Helmet and eye protection I'm a little unsure of. Thinking of getting them a ski-helmet so I can attach ski-goggles for the winter but I'm not sure what to do for the rainy fall
>>
>>2021605
>Tsunami
isn't this the brand that aussie anon had? the red road bike, maybe it was single speed.
he said they were good
>>
>>2021640
Tsunami frames are very popular in Russia. They're cheap and have fast shipping, they come in all sizes and use all the common modern part standards.
From what I know, on their older alloy fork steerer tubes would start creaking after a while, but that isn't an issue with newer ones. Other than that, the quality is alright.
>>
>>2021616
The use case is train commuting in a country where they discriminate bringing a bike on a train. Nothing else.
>>
>>2021504
Ride harder
>>
I have a campagnolo 10 speed setup on my road bike. Specifically a 10 speed shifter paired with rear mech, and an 11 speed campag freehub that i have a 10 speed cassette on.

I was wondering if there were any aliexpress cassettes for the campag freehub, and also if it would be possible to run a 10spd shimano rear cassette on a different wheel without changing the shifting setup?

Another possibility would be to get an 11 speed shifter, and move to an 11 speed cassette - I assume this doesnt require a different rear derailleur?
>>
I'm the maximum height for M frames and the minimum height for L frames.
Which do I choose?
>>
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>>2021706
M
>>
>>2021706
the traditional wisdom is you can finagle the fitment of a smaller bike larger, but you can't make a large frame negative, the frame is a hard limit. also, the handling gets more sluggish on a frame too large for you, whereas one that's small seems sportier (some would say twitchier) but bottom line: choose smaller than larger just makes more sense . apparently the pros used to size down their frames back in the traditional geo days
>>
>>2021706
Many road racers used to ride bikes one or two sizes too small, I never heard of any riding bikes in sizes too large.
>>
>>2021706
M. Once you ride more you can learn if a larger frame works for you, but a smaller one, especially close to your "optimal" size will always work.
I am a similar height/location for bike frames and I always went M instead of L.
Especially on mountain bikes.
>>
>gf mad at me for wanting another bike
>still want a do it all bike
Anyone build a New Albion frame? They look good for commuting and light road/gravel rides.
>>
>>2021706
As someone who has goes L in that situation most of his life, go M.
>>
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>>2021599
Yea BS01, shit is so bright its funny.

rear is Cygolite Hypershot. The $25 dollar one on amazon. It's very bright and adjustable. Buttons are a little cliumsy but it has a well designed reflector, it spits out a night light and lasts long enough on low. Only annoying thing is no silicone strap which is my preferred attachment method.

It's amazing just how shitty my last set of bike lights were. These 2 are such an upgrade it's unreal. I can't believe I was retarded for so many years.
>>
>>2021705
Short answer is no. You need the cassette, derailer, and shifter to all match up for indexing to work correctly, and all of things things are specific to each brand and generation of 'speeds' (there are some rare exceptions, but that's beyond the scope of this post). And Shimano and Campy use a different spline pattern for their cassettes, so they're not compatible with the same freehub bodies.

>>2021761
There used to be somebody on /n/ who had a black New Albion frame, maybe they're still around. My impression/expectation of these frames is that they're solid but nothing special (assuming they're very like the Pake C'mute I used to own). Would I pay the full $670 MSRP for that frame and fork? No way, that's most of the way to a complete Contend AR, Domane AL, or something similar with decent spec. But $280 is cheap enough I'd say go for if you have access to most or all of the parts you'd want to build this without paying so much that a complete bike ends up making more sense.
>>
>>2021705
>noodling about speeds and manufacturers
Take the friction pill, my man.
>>
>>2021705
you should look at shimergo

https://www.cyclinguk.org/cyclists-library/components/transmission-gears/derailleur-gears/shimergo

actually you should look at not campagnolo if you want to buy cheap chinese stuff and be poor generally, it's not really worth it, just escape that whole ecosystem.
>>
>>2021800
what bike does he ride?
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>>2021800
Most of the time I want eternal rest, not eternal life
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>>2021796
I would end up building the bike from the ground up so I'd need all the parts. Might be too expensive. I just like the geometry and flexibility of being able to mount a bunch of shit, like I could mount a bunch of racks and for a tour or take em off as needed for a commute
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>>2021803
>>
I love 80's ATBs but they tend to be so heavy. I've been daydreaming a lot about what that philosophy of bike would feel like with a really nice tube set. People tend to make it sound like really thin tubes dent and crumple so easily, but surely if a frame can stand up to road racing conditions for decades, it could cope with exploring on woods roads, especially with 2"+ tires. Seems to me like the whole early mtb industry built extremely heavy even when most people already weren't using them for hill bombing, but by the time they lightened up in the 90's the paradigm had changed in other ways. Still such fun bikes but they don't look or feel the same.

inb4 just get a good new gravel bike. Yeah, maybe true, but gay. And I'm just thinking out loud here anyway
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>>2021843
>fucking sram and not campy
why tho
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>>2021849
I agree and don't have much to add.Oh, maybe try cannondales since those were famous for their thin big tubes on road bikes, and maybe their early mtb's are thee same.
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>>2021856
SRAM is a Catholic corporation. Campagnolo might be owned by pr*testants.
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>>2021849
This is where the off road tourer came into its own, makers like Roberts in the UK, who were all at the forefront of driving ATB technological advancement during the late 80s and early 90s, used the best MTB racing tubing in some of their more sedate product lines.

Roberts made the Rough Stuff, a bike that goes back to the 1970s inspired by the Rough Stuff Fellowship, the worlds first off road cycling club, and as the tubing improved this bike improved. Granted, it's a relatively niche product from a now defunct custom frame builder, however, these bikes do surface fairly regularly and for a fraction of a far inferior new bike.

There was an explosion of small boutique builders churning out off road bikes that weren't MTBs using the best light tubing fillet brazed. Names to look out for are Roberts, Overburys, Jack Taylor, Paul Donahue, Dave Lloyd, Ellis Briggs, Dave Quinn, Dave Hinde, Orbit, Sonic, Zinn, FW Evans, Nigel Dean - there are more. All these builderss made their names building custom MTBs for the top riders, but also used the same skills and materials on tourers and other less performance focused machines long after the 90s ended.

Sorry for the British-centric response, but I'm British and mad about British made steel bikes.
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>>2021883
Great stuff anon, even though I'm in the US. God knows if it's really in the cards for me or just to stay a daydream, but I'm aspiring to build and so seeing stuff from these builders is good fuel for the fire. All I really want at the end of the day is to have one of these awesome forest machines with all the braze-ons I like and not have to shell out quite so much. Who knows though, I've been lucky before.
>>
I want a smaller wheel bike.
Should I get or build a newer mini velo or get an older 26 inch MTB and upgrade it?
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>>2021886
Look out for fat chance, rock lobster, bontrager, sycip, and others. I know there are tons out there from the US but I just only know these couple since I have one or two+my dad was interested in them.
If you go on bikeforums, classic+vintage, then the running craigslist/fb/offerup thread you will see some pop up. Best deals I tend to find but rare/neat stuff people post.
Like a couple fat chances recently.
>>2021887
Goals+restraints(money, new/used,etc)?
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>>2021888
>Goals+restraints(money, new/used,etc)?
I'm 170cm tall and 28 inch wheel fenders are annoyingly close to the pedals. Not toe overlap close, but I'm still forced to pedal with the ball of my foot.
Don't really care about new/used, or whether it's a bare frame set I have to build from scratch.
Budget is around 1500€.
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>>2021888
Thanks, gonna screen cap your recs. Maybe you inspired me to start lurking forums. I've been a lifelong craigslist lurker but it's fallen off a bit in recent years. I picked up my first year trek 850 very cheap that way, but the fit is not too perfect and with the kind of diet I would have to put it on to get it appreciably lighter I know I'd be better off just looking around.

Also found a cool blurb on Rock Lobster. Inspiring stuff about building. And what an outrageous fork.
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>>2021849
for production bikes (as opposed to all those boutique custom names) I know that Miyata made mtbs from around 87 to the early 90s . their cromo is usually regarded as very high quality and for at least the later part of their production they made them in splined, triple butted (STB) tubing. without any hard data I can point to, I'm assuming that should be some of the lightest frames of the era just due to the tubes. could be a good place to start for comparison, anyway
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ever seen this, a cracked cone? maybe i overtightened the locknut
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>>2021887
if you're not taking your bike on the train most days and carrying it up ten flights of stairs to a tiny cramped apartment, there is absolutely no value in a mini velo. otherwise , between the two, the mtb will ride better and be more capable in every way
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>>2021889
>forced to pedal with the ball of my foot.
your bike forces you to use it correctly, gee what a drag
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>>2021896
not seeing a crack.
but to answer your question, no. just wear and/or pitting of the race. weird
>>
I have access to a free Trek 820 from 2017. Not a great bike, but it'd be free.

Should I put some upgrades into it? Maybe go from a 3x to 1x, or a 650b conversion? I'd probably have to buy parts.

It'd be a lot of work (and probably money) but I find doing stuff like that rewarding
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>>2021895
Ty anon. I will investigate these

>>2021901
I've been known to put more than is worth it into projects because I get into the idea. But from the standpoint of time/money, it wouldn't really be sound for that bike. By all means take it and get it in good shape, but getting something like that for free isn't really an unusual occurence. Just ride it, take the money you would put into a major wheel or drivetrain upgrade and lurk around a little bit: you will assuredly wind up with a whole vastly superior bike.
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looking for the best bang for buck front light. Something that will light up what's front of me when I need it, but can be turned down to save battery in low light conditions.

What's /n/ rocking these days?
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>>2021904
I believe there's still a guy on ebay selling new cateye ampp400+viz 150 lights for around $30 right now. Normally more like 70. I was getting paralyzed about lights recently as well, but these are some of the brighter/longer lasting options from a good maker for the price of things that seemed a lot iffier so I pulled the trigger.
>>
Should I get a brompton or an ebike? Probably gonna ride around my neighborhood with it.
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>>2021905
thanks anon, will take a look.
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>>2021908
>Probably gonna ride around my neighborhood with it.
whaaa? neither. neither of them are that use case.
just get a rigid 90s mtb and put slicks on it.
if you want new just get a basic road bike not for racing or like a hybrid or gravel bike on the lower end of price. or a fucking beach cruiser if you are for sure limited to slowly going no further than a quarter mile at a time.
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>>2021897
Mini velos are out, then.

>>2021898
Looked into it, and you're right. It's probably for the best that I get used to pedaling like this.
Will give the 28 bike another chance.
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>>2021912
about to hit buy on the checkout page on bikesdirect.com for $350. anything else i should know?
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>>2021915
>>2021912
Forgot picrel
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>>2021903
Yeah fair. The bike's in fine shape, barely ridden. My cousin got it and didn't like it, I would just use it as a commuter
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>>2021896
I can't make out the crack. Perhaps point it out or change the lighting.
I dont remember a cracked cone but cracked headsets for example. The reason is simple metallurgy. To provide low friction and long life a rolling element bearings load bearing components need to have high hardness. At the same time this causes brittleness. Hence manufacturers need to walk a thin line with the temper.
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>>2021915
eh, you were talking about $1000+ budget for the ebike and Brompton and now you're getting the literal cheapest thing going from the company that cuts corners? they are better than the Walmart offerings, though (so-called Bicycle Shaped Objects)
actually, it's not a bad strategy since your use case is the least demanding of them all, but set aside some money to have a good shop put it the rest of the way together for you, tune the shifting and brakes, and make sure they check the wheels for tension and true.

before you buy, is there a sizing guide on the page? you want to get one in the size that fits you.
your pic seems perfect for a neighborhood bike, though .
if you get more heavily into cycling, it'll allow you to explore longer distances, offroad, or etc up to a point. then you can get a real bike if you want
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>>2021920
>eh, you were talking about $1000+ budget for the ebike and Brompton
I think I need the trial period first. My first inclination toward an ebike was the assist so you can get to where you need to go faster and ride longer. My fear is losing it if someone steals it since locks are complex and annoying from what it seems. My second look was the brompton so I can take it inside the grocery store with me so it's close to impossible for thieves to take it from me. A cheap beater may be in order like you said until I outgrow it.
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>>2021849
That’s why they made 90’s mountain bikes, all the exact same engineering as before but with underbuilt aluminum frames in an attempt to sell a 23lbs mountain bike
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>>2021888
Or he can fucking get over himself and look at kona, GT, even marin
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What makes an older bike worth restoring and upgrading?
What do I need to look out for on ad sites?
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>>2021932
Go research what you like, quality vs not and figure it out. Everyone has a different preference of "x is good quality but Y is BSO tier".
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>>2021932
rareness, but also general build quality. the fact is though most old bikes aren't worth restoring from a cost factor. you'd be restoring it for yourself as a project, not to flip and make a profit. as long as you're fine with spending more than its really worth (and will not get back when you decide to sell it), anything can be worth restoring if it matters to you.
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>>2021932
>What makes an older bike worth restoring and upgrading?
>level of quality
Basically, how expensive it was when it was new. Look up the level of the drivetrain components (all brands have a parts hierarchy for quality), and how nice the frame tubing / frame is. There are a number of other tells you will learn to see from a small blurry picture, but those are the simple ways.
>compatibility
Most nice 80s/90s bikes are fantastic projects because they're broadly compatible with a bunch of widely available cheap new and old parts. If a bike is pre 1988 or has campagnolo or french (simplex etc) components, it is maybe not a great basic project.
>condition
Most important is that the fork is not bent. Then that the wheels are actually in good condition, hub bearings and brake tracks and spokes, then that the chainrings are in good condition. Almost everything else is good to replace anyway if overhaul.
>fit
It HAS to be in a good size for you, not just something you're adapting to make work.
>style
It HAS to be in a colour you like, repainting is not worth it and if you don't like the colour get another bike, life is too short.

You're looking for stuff that has been ravaged by time rather than use, so it looks shabby but underneath is stuff which is not actually worn out. Also something which is complete and suits your use as it is. Imo the nice / practical builds tend to be fairly stock and for a classic road bike you'd just upgrade the brakes, make the gearing wider, and get nice consumables, but leave it mostly as it is if you can. Mtb doubly so, maybe even jsut nice bars. You're still buying new chain, cables, grips, brake pads, tires.

That cost adds up, it's like ~$200 to do a bike. It doesn't make sense relative to what you could sell it for (especially as you won't do a perfect job), but it absolutely can make sense if you keep the budget less than half the cost of an entry level new bike, and you've chosen a project which is quite nice
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>>2021932
Tourney
Exage / Claris
Exage / Sora
RSX / Tiagra
105
600 / Ultegra
Dura Ace

or

Tourney
Exage / Altus
STX / Acera
Deore
XT
XTR

Roughly that's the shimano heirachy.
There are niceish bikes with even the low tier equipment on it, but if you're looking for a really nice project, I would specifically suggest 600 tricolour for road or XT for mtb. Both pretty common and if you see them on a bike you know it's a nice bike.
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>>2021916
ew no. Excessively low end, the parts on that are all junk, the plastic derailers, the gimped freewheel . Get something used or spend a bit more money. The next tier of stuff, 8 / 9 speed altus/ acera is MUCH better than the bottom tier noname/tourney 7 speed stuff.
And if you make that price bump then you get a cassette hub. The bike you're looking at has a threaded freewheel which is archaic 1980s technology and is prone to bending axles.
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>>2021916
also worth noting anon, a bottom tier department store -esque bike like that, or really, anything from bikesdirect is going to want more than just putting the pedals and bars on like the instructions say.

You will actually want to fully overhaul it out of the box, repack the bearings and likely have the wheels trued/ tensioned.

The reason they are so cheap compared to bike shop brands is that they are assembled shoddily and this is not a drawback, it's just something you should understand and then address. If that's beyond you, then don't buy one.
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>>2021932
I'd also like to add that you can vastly improve most bicycles without spending any money on them.

On a proper rebuild the first thing that you will do is cut all of the cables and put them in the bin.
If you slide an inner cable out of a housing you will never get the kinked part back through. So a cable can be cut above where it's clamped and re-used in a shorter run of housing.
If you just unclamp your cables at the derailers/brakes, then you can pull the housing out of the stops, and slide it around. Spray some PTFE lubricant like triflow or LPS-1 on the inners and work it into the housings. Wa la your cables are now low friction, HUGE improvement. You do not need new cables unless they are badly frayed and on the verge of snapping, or the ends of the housings have fully come apart.
Although a -really- clean build and the difference between a professionals work and some bumbling amateur is how clean / neat the cable lengths are, and that takes careful consideration once everything else has been adjusted, and custom work, with attention to the detail, like you are filing the ends of the housing smooth before installing the ferrules, and opening up the ends with an awl.
You can re-fresh old rim brake pads simply by removing them and running them along a file to reveal fresh rubber. Pick out the metal shavings with a scalpel. Clean the connical washers and then put a very light film of grease on all of those mating surfaces and the thread of the brake pad. That will stop it from rotating when you tighten it.
Unbolt the derailer cage and clean the jockey wheels, again, light film of grease on all mating parts / threads on reassembly.
Rebuild the bearings.
True the wheels, you can do that with a $10 spoke key, zip ties, and a rope / hook to hang the bike.

Most bikes are much nicer with just new grips / pedals.
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>>2021932
what you will find though, once you start, is that most bikes have badly pitted hubs, so they're never gonna roll nicely or worn out rims, badly stretched chains causing fucked cassettes and shark toothed chainrings, or some other problem that requires $$ or better yet a huge hoarding of other bikes.
Throwing chinese stuff at it like legos is not a good way to go.
Even just a set of nice tires (the thing most worth spending money on ) is like $100 and so many used bikes people think have good tires have dry rotted cracked sidewalls, that is almost guaranteed to happen when tires sit on a bike uninflated for a length of time.

a lot of people sell used bikes for outrageous prices, when everything on them is fucked.
Learn to part out a used bike on paper. Pay less than the total used value of the parts.
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>>2021919
In your pic, that aluminum housing has a steel race pressed into it.
So your "explanation" is pointless.
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>>2021783
Does it charge with a USB-C -> USB-C cable? The Fenix BC05R V2 pairs nicely with the Sofirn because it has the same interface, including the single-press battery level indicator. The only issue is it only charges with a USB-C -> USB-A cable unlike the Sofirn.
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>>2021932
The main thing to consider is whether you want to restore or build a bike as there is a difference between the two?

There’s lots online that makes the cleaning, stripping and greasing steps seem easy but without the right tools and skills it can take days of annoying labour.

From experience I regretted “upgrading” a vintage bike away from its original components, even if it had alloy wheels and suicide levers. The spray can paint job was also far worse than the original (albeit rusted) factory paint. The bike lost its character and aside from the French style forks, looked like any modern cheap steel bike.

If you want to just do a straight forward neo-retro build and put a modern race group set on a vintage frame frame then that’s also nice (although you’re limited to 25mm tyres usually). Most people don’t want to be stuck with old race gearing e.g. 42-25.
>>
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>>2021932
There is something incredibly rewarding about taking an old bike and bringing it back to life. Whether it's just giving it a proper service, or a complete rebuild, that first ride is always a treat.

One word of caution however. You will need some tools, the older the bike, the more there is to be done and the more tools you will likely need, and good tools aren't cheap, and many are good for only one task.

You can get by with simple tools for basic maintenance, but once you start thinking about repacking bearings and completely stripping a bike down then you will need to get your wallet out. Just something to bear in mind.

Personally I've been working on bikes since I was a kid, so I've slowly built up a nice collection of good quality tools over the years. I tend to buy tools as and when I need them. Cheap tools are usually not worth it, it is easy to damage an old part by using a cheap tool. I do my research, find out which ones are considered best for the specific task I'm facing and then hunt for good used examples. But even then I've spent hundreds of pounds on tools over the years. I consider it money well spent as I've managed to bring scores of bikes back to life and had countless days of pleasure both working on and riding bikes.
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>>2022010
good bicycle tools are cheap relative to other kinds of tools, and many bicycle tools can be improvised (bearing presses, wheel truing stands). Park, Icetoolz, Unior, etc, relatively nice brands, it's still just like $10-$20 per tool, new, for most things.

Facing/ reaming tools, alignment gauges, those kinda things are expensive, but they're for pretty involved work people won't really do when starting out.

the specialist tools required to do a task are usually less than the labour cost for having it done once
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has anyone tried bar-ends?
I'm building a touring bike from cheap used parts. STI road levers are nice but very expensive. I also might wanna try different builds in the future.
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>>2022012
My hanger alignment tool cost $420
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>>2022017
>STI road levers are nice but very expensive.
Anon this is a bicycle thread. Not a single part of a bike is "expensive".
Get some decent shifters and dont cheap out because something is slightly more expensive.
Also barends suck balls, because you have to change your hand position every time you want to shift. Not that bad on the flats but if its a bit hilly and you want to keep your cadence its pure misery.
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>>2022017
Bar ends? Or Barcons?
If you mean barcons I have them on my favourite grabbel type bike
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>>2022017
I’ve used a similar setup to pic related (Tektro levers and Dia-Compe bar ends) with old 9 speed deore. For touring they work fine I guess? The friction system is smooth on the Dia-Compe but I’ve not used Dura Ace ones before which has the option for indexing.

I don’t like the look or feel of them but I’d recommend using larger levers like pic rel for touring for hand positions / comfort. Friction tends to work better with 10 speed in my opinion experience as there’s little room for the gear to slip / get stuck between.

Bar ends possibly saved a tour of mine when I crashed and snapped a pivot on the front brake lever. Made descending sketchy but at least I could still change gears.
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>>2022019
I think it’s an issue if you’re running 2x in the front as shifting down under load / at speed coming up to a hill can be sketchy. I’d almost argue going for a 1x10 setup and run a 40t or below in the front depending on the load you’re carrying.

I find shifting down on the back cassette is pretty effortless while climbing.
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>>2022017
I'm gonna go against the naysayers here; I used the actual suntour ratcheting barcons for years and will probably dig them out for another drop bar in the future. I was on logging roads and stuff for a lot of that and I never found it disruptive to shift on ups, nor sketchy on descents. If you're on the hoods, you just kind of slide your hand across the outside of the hooks, just like if you're changing positions and it's bumpy. No need to "remove" your hand from the bar really, it's pretty secure. Only thing irritating for me is that if you want to mess with them, you're scrapping the bar tape. And they're a little exposed, which feels fragile. Both of those things also apply to STI of course.

Oh, another thing is that they can be spongier than DT shifters for friction since there's a lot more cable housing run. So just try to use actual good stuff for that and not whatever's lying in the bin.
>>
any good cgoab journals (or touring blogs) with reasonably high daily mileage? I liked Jacob Ashton's world tour a lot but evrerything else I've seen on that site has been like 25mi days.
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Anyone tried to flip bikes lately? Obviously not looking to make a living, but curious if anyone is able to come out in the black on anything lately (not including labor). Couple of old GTs and Hardrocks/Rockhoppers have popped up for around $60 asking. Might make a meme 1x eventually out of one if I find a good one.

Any tips for cheap tires, grips, pedals, and normal consumables to make this not completely a loss are welcome, but just pricing things out it doesn't look feasible at all even to just break even.

Again not looking to make money, just to wrench on something in my free time.
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>>2022054
I just buy and ride.
>cheap parts
well I would buy tires on ebay, and most other parts that age on there too.
Then buy other used bikes if you need specific parts. Especially frames in the XXL or XXS range. Those are hard for people to sell so they are cheap.

Most of my recent vintage bike purchases have been on the large side but still fit me fine.

I think if I tried I could break even, but I search FB, offerup, and craigslist daily. It would only be for the crazy deals I find. Like custom builder bikes for sub 100usd, vintage italian for 200 or less, etc.

However parting out will always be the most profitable and I don't like that, so I just buy to wrench and ride.
Done 2 paintjobs where I did a splatter which turned out okay, and a pearl which is also okay. Had lots of fun so I recommend it.
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>>2022057
I think this guy is right. Definitely not gonna make much, but you could end up even stevens. If there's a nearby bike co-op that would make it a lot more viable and era-legit, but it you went the ebay route for parts you would have to be very careful and not let feelings get in the way, since anything remotely old and cool gets subjected to collector pricing on there. I guess for new parts there's kalloy for seatposts and stems; that's all that really comes to mind aside from shimano V's and stuff like that. Kool stop could be worth it since a lot of people can eye that quickly. I've done a lot of this kind of thing but it's also always been for friends or family since you can all get satisfaction that way, and they can steer your choices somewhat

If you wanted to make a little more you could look for free or very cheap deals, harvest the parts and sell on ebay yourself. I've sold some parts from that era for frankly stupid prices on the bay. But I've also thought of guys who do that serially as scum, so, make of that what you will I guess.
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I'm a bike newfag so prepare for some dumb questions.
I just bought a Schwinn Crosscut from around the early '90s, and I think it needs a chain replacement. I have a Parktool CC3.2 and it easily slides into the chain at .50, you need to lightly press it into the chain at .75 but it also fits. I also noticed today when doing a second ride that it was really slow on shifting the front gears so I'm inclined to believe my chain tester. Pic rel is the chain test, I didn't realize the picture was so poor.
I couldn't see any markings on the chain so I have no clue what brand it is, what size it is, etc etc. Any comprehensive chain guides out there for me to figure this crap out?

Also, I've gone on 2 pretty mild (~1 mile) test rides and the handlebars hurt my hands and the saddle hurt my ass. The first hurt more than the second so maybe I just need to acclimate to it, but if it continues to be uncomfortable any suggestions for affordable replacement handlebar grips & saddles? I looked at dailycycling or something and their saddle suggestions were insanely expensive.
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>>2022063
Thanks 4chan.
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>>2022063
new chain time. Light press means it's probably toast or about to be toast. Hard press means you are good to ride.
On 8 speed or lower chains .75 is a good time to change, on newer 10sp+ chains they prefer .5
singlespeed is 1.00 or more depending on who you ask. Oh and use some oil to lube the new chain.

Another test I do is put it in big big gearing. If it runs quiet then the chain is probably very worn laterally and still toast.

I like OURY grips since they are big and comfy, I also like wtb saddles like the old rocket 5 or speed 5. I like cushier ones with a taint cutout.
The key to fitment is a mixture of your fitness, and adjustments of all contact points(hands, saddle, and pedals).

A great starting point is level saddle, heel on pedals with almost fully extended knee for seat height, and bars.... well what doesn't feel like shit. Bring tools with you to adjust all of them, and do that for your first couple rides if required.

I recommend pivoting at your hips and running slightly bent elbows when you are riding. Straight elbows/arms is going to hurt when you go over bumps. Also use a tire pressure calculator to start for tire pressure. If you just run MAX psi and you weigh say 150lbs/60-70kg the ride will be very stiff. OTOH if you weigh 250lbs/110kg and run low pressure you will be hitting your rim while riding and feel like shit.

Oh, and your body will adapt to riding after a week or two. The saddle/taint area will take longer.
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>>2022068
Great, thanks for the info anon.
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>>2022063
from the chain testers I've used it should not be able to drop past the roller at all if the chain is still good.
other lazy check is to see how tightly the chain rests on the chainring, a worn chain is easy to pull so the teeth are shown.
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Here is an chain width guide, it says 6 to 8 speed chains are around 7.2 mm wide.
only other thing to mention is the shape of the outer plates, its something to do with SIS shifting, but does not make much difference.
I like KMC chains, they often come with the bike from new.
there is allot of variance depending on how harsh the bike is used,
but a chain is good for about 500 kilometre's before damage to the pins causes the chain pitch to get too long and eat into the teeth.
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>>2022057
>>2022061
Yeah thanks this is basically what I thought. I don't really have a want to try and nickel and dime people stripping and selling parts, also don't have the real estate to just leave a bunch of shit laying around for when stuff doesn't sell. I already have 6 bikes at the moment, so no real need for any more to ride, I just like wrenching and cars and to a lesser extent motorcycles are just too expensive these days.

Will probably just keep looking out for cheap ones that I can try new paint and/or meme 1x builds for friends and family
>>
>>2022054
>>2022054
I sold a bike that I put a ton of labor into and maybe $80 in parts. I had to relist it on CL for months but the first answer gave me my asking price and I cleared over $100. HOWEVER it wasn't exactly a "flip" because I got it free. also, it wasn't like what you're talking about, getting bike-guy bikes, it was a cool-looking gaspipe shitter I sold to a normie for the price of a new bso.

parts I use scamazon and filter lowest-to-highest. there's always deals that way, picrel the prices on parts for a donor bike I just got . but it won't be bike-guy stuff, just stuff to get the bike rolling and sellable. also, the Zoom and Uno brands on Ali are good and cheap. they're on scamazon too I think but cost more.
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>>2022063
>handlebars hurt my hands
one not-obvious thing is that if the saddle is nosed down a little, your body weight slides onto your wrists. I just recently did a fit on a new bike and ONE notch up from what I thought felt right on the seatpost was the difference between hand pain and none. the saddle felt funny at first but soon I didn't notice that anymore .
also you could try raising the stem and tilting the bars could also help .

your ass will break in with miles, but saddle fit is a thing and takes some measurements and guesswork/trying different ones
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>>2022018
abbey?

Park DAG-2.2 is like $100, i have one. It doesn't leave anything to be desired, it's not sloppy or anything.

Pic rel is your hanger alignment tool on a 7 / 8 / 9 speed steel bike. You don't need super precise alignment.
A big adjustable, a metric spanner set, plus a set of nice allen keys, a JIS screwdriver, a knife, some pens, a hammer, some pipe, that's really all you need in terms of general tools. You could get decent all that stuff for $100 used. And a rope + hook to hang the bike, or a workstand. Each specific job will require either a $10-$20 tool, or you to make a tool out of $10-$20 of hardware store stuff like a piece of threaded rod and bolts and washers to make a bearing press. That's not expensive.
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>>2022018
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>>2022053
have you read universewithme ?

her old journals are awesome
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Anyone tried to fit 12 speed chainrings on a 10 speed cassette/drivetrain? If so, what kind of chain did you use 10, 11, 12? I have a red 10 speed group in my garage with no crankset and wanting to put it on my CAAD10 frame.

If I get the BBInfinite bb for sram dub it opens up a lot more possibilities for cranksets since not thrashed to death 10 speed cranks/rings are few and far between. Unless someone has a good place to get new 10 speed cranksets? I would imagine 11 would be fine, but it seems everything new online is just marked as 12 speed.
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>>2022077
checked and correct. Recently had to lower+raise the nose of my saddle and now my fit is better.
>>2022095
works on my steel...
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>>2022100
nvm I'm dumb, universal cycles has Force 22 cranksets in stock in like every size.
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>>2022017
They're lovely. Simple, robust, and feel good to use. Also it's nice having shifting and braking separate.

Downside is they're a bit of a faff to get installed, and they're separate from your brake levers.

They're popular on touring bikes for a reason.
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>>2021799
>>2021705
>bought campagnolo 8 speed RD
>max 28T
>buy 8 speed cassette
>mfw shifting is terrible
>mfw looking at the prices of campagnolo cassette and hubs
I'm in too deep with this shit. Should I just go 7 speed as the link says they're made for each other?
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>>2022097
not familiar, I'll investigate. thanks!
>>
Would 57mm of bottom bracket drop be too much for a 650b conversion?
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>>2022135
>>buy 8 speed cassette
>>shifting is terrible
a new 8 speed campy cassette?
You should be able to set it up to shift well.

>should i just go 7 speed
... sure but you have other wheels?
What parts of your campy set are actually good? Post some pics.
If you have good campy parts then they can absolutely be worth using (i have some in various setups) and if you don't want to use them then they're worth money.
If they aren't good, worn out stuff and especially worn out avanti/ mirage / daytona low end crap with plastic on it, is just garbage. The worst thing is seeing people throw (to them) real money at some entry level thrashed out shit because it's campy.
>>
>>2022192
IDK you can always run thinner pedals/not flats, shorter cranks, or do larger tires to raise you up.
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>>2022194
>8 speed Shimano cassette
>Veloce 3x9 speed shifter
>Mirage 8 speed short/medium(?) Cage
>Centaur FD
>53/39 Shimano cranks(?)
I know it's basic shit like you say but I want it to work so badly. I'm just gonna buy spacers from a 7 speed cassette and slap em on the 8 speed one.
Where the hell do you get unbound cogs?
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>>2022201
Some nicer cassettes have more unbound cogs, and others use rivets or tiny 3mm screws to hold them together.
Knowing campy I bet most of them are unbound and it uses a rivet you can drill out for the last 3 largest cogs.
>>
installed oneup composite pedals on my commuter. shoes stick like velcro now
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>>2022194
I thought Daytona was Centaur / Ultegra equivalent?
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>>2022192
depends how much you had to begin with and the terrain you're planning to use it on
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>>2022100
you use a 12s chain with a 12s cassette of course. And yes they work wonderfully on 10s freehubs. Got 12s from ali on dura ace 7800 which works just fine.
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>>2022211
What are you comparing them to?
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>>2022217
stock bontrager city pedals
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>>2022214
the dividing line for ergopower shifters is whether they have plastic or metal paddles, and yeah, you're right, daytona have metal
so huh

>Centaur / Ultegra equivalent?
love the old campy hierachy from campy fanbois which puts Chorus up with Dura Ace, Record and Super Record are off the scale, and meh tier groups are ultegra.
Cos back in the day, Ultegra, or 600, was actually better than Dura Ace.
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>>2022216
Thanks man, but was meaning 12s crankset/chain rings on a 10 speed red/force drivetrain. Like everything else is 10 speed, but the crankset is 12s
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>>2022231
I look like this and do this
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>>2021048
Go to a local used bike shop and get something old that says 105, ultegra, or dura ace on the derailleur. It should cost no more than $300.
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Found this in my tire, is it normal?
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>>2021307
I just slapped Sensah Empire Pro on an old shitty road bike that came with Claris and it's been legitimately excellent. 250 miles on it so far, needed a wolf tooth road link to fit an 11-36 cassette and even with the extender it shifts beautifully. While I was at it I got some zrace brake calipers that fit slightly bigger tires, they're great too with Kool Stop pads.
>>
>>2021904
YANRI chinesium has been holding up fine, plus the front light can pretend to be a battery pack for my phone or head unit https://a.co/d/3Ubu2ti
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>>2022256
Yeah that's the built in deflator, it protects against overpressure
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>>2022255
wisdom
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>>2020978
>15 miles into a date/bike ride with a femoid
>Foot snags on cable
>Brake explodes
>Takes the wheel with it
>Spaghetti everywhere
>Long walk back
The cable stuck way out the side. easily 6" too long.
Does the bike shop owe me a new wheel+brake? They think I should pay their cost for the parts. They tried for cost + labor.
They're saying I should have taken it in because I knew it was too long... I was waiting for free service in the off-season :/ they have the bike now and can see the cable was way too long.
I'm going to bite the bullet and buy the new wheel parts at cost since i can't get them cheaper elsewhere, but pay a different shop to install it.
Feels bad man.

I want to leave them a shitty review, but would give up on my 7 year free service by doing so.
I'm also pretty autistic and easily offended ,what would the more sane members of /bqg/ - bisexuals queers 'n gays do
the bike cost near $10,000, should have been done right the first time
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>>2022278
lol what $10,000 bike do you have that has brake cables?
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>>2022278
>what would the more sane members of /bqg/ do
work on my own bike instead of letting store monkeys touch it
>the bike cost near $10,000
what the fuck
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>>2022278
If you can afford a 10kusd bike let them finish it, and keep your 7 year free service. If you are easily offended go ride your other bike and cool down, then reassess.

I am a wrenchmaxxer so that's what I do. I would almost do it for free.
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>>2022284
>I am a wrenchmaxxer
what the fuck are you talking about?
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>>2022278
I am convinced this is completely your fault.
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>>2022278
>>Foot snags on cable
Which cable anyway? Front or rear?
Unfortunate but it's probably your fault.

Leaving cables too long isn't wrong, because it allows customization.
It would only be their fault if you had had a custom fit done with the bike, and then they re-cabled the bike, and you were clear that the setup/fit was final. If you've ever talked to them about customizing it in future, then you've sent the wrong signals already.

Shortening a cable is also the kind of job that a bike shop doesn't need to do and so they probably won't advocate for it because it means passing on a gratuitous cost which most customers don't appreciate.

There was also probably a moment when you snagged on the cable, where you should have eased up and avoided this. You are not supposed to power through resistance on a bicycle. You've learnt that now.

The more common scenario, like this, is people sending their rear derailer into the back wheel after a service because the limit screws have not been checked. That is a shops fault. But it's also something that doesn't happen if you stop pedalling the instant it starts to happen.

You, as a customer, are also responsible for minor things like zip tying cables away. There's no reason that should be a shop job. It's also likely that the cable -was- tidied away in the shop, and just knocking about had pulled it into an awkward position, so again, it's something you should have been aware of as the person actually using the bike.

Finally I know you sunk a lot of money at that shop but bike shops do not have the fat on them to cover costs like this. On the other hand tidy cabling is one of if not the biggest difference between professional and amateur work. So i do see where you're coming from.
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>>2022289
ya know, wrenching on it yourself.
Sorry the (word here)maxxing thing is old now.
>>2022293
I like leaving them a little long since I get freaking PISSED when a good cable is now to short for an application.
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>>2022293
Now THIS is postmaxxing
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>>2022202
I've given up. Should I just replace the entire brakes/shifter with Shimano or do I take the friction shifter pill?
>>
Do you guys ride your steel bikes in the winter? I have a modern steel road bike but I am worried about (((salt))). I also have an aluminium decathlon shitter, which I could use instead.
>>
>>2022315
8 speed is fine to shift on damn near any friction shifter, but if you want brifters then that route is fine too.
>>2022317
Well, if you clean your bike the salt won't be too much of an issue. OTOH your shitter is just sitting there and a perfect winter beater. I do know winter riding is harder on all parts that require grease, and your drivetrain.... so if you have fancy parts the shitter is the smart play.

We don't have true winters around here, worst we get is a little rain.
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>>2022318
Wouldn't be bad if I didn't have brifters on already. Now I need to buy brake levers and shifters. Or do I say fuck it and just keep the brifters on as brake levers?
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>>2022322
Aero brake levers are damn cheap, same thing with used friction shifters, but it's your call.
>>
I have a seat bone width of around 120mm.
What seat should I get for a slightly bent riding position on a hybrid bike for 40-50km trips?
I bought pic related (Wittkop Medicus Pro Evo 3.0, 210mm width) some time ago, before I knew that seats have to be fitted instead of being universal, and recently installed it, and it feels like there is no padding there whatsoever and I'm sitting on a wooden stool. Is this normal and I need to "break it in"?
>>
>>2022317
component damage is far more significant, i would be worried about your hub/ other bearings and drivetrain, not your frame.

You would just want to ensure the seatpost/ pedals/ stem etc are correctly installed with a thin film of grease on all mating parts and threads.

Also, aluminium corrosion is a worse issue than steel rust, especially around glued inserts and such. That corrosion is also wholly negative wheras rust can sort of be charming.
If you're truely worried about a steel frame lasting for ever, spray inside the chainstays with lps-3 or fish oil. That's where bikes rust out.
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>>2022326
yes if 'it' is your ass . Your synthetic saddle is not going to break in at all.

A correctly fitted saddle will have the sit bones of your ass on the saddle. All (much) padding will do is compress around your sit bones and pressure your nerves and cause real benis pain. It may seem comfortable in the short term, but that is a ruse.
Muscular / flesh pain on your ass is something you just bear and it will go away. There is no way around it.

The other part is that you don't really sit on a bicycle saddle, most of your weight should be on the pedals. This allows you to smooth out the road with your leg muscles, it means you aren't going to slip off the pedals, and you should actually be riding.

So basically you need to git gud with your legs and break your ass in.

If you have benis/ nerve pain, that's not good, that is a fit issue, address that because it will only get worse.
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>>2022328
The sit bones sit pretty much dead center on the saddle.
Compared to my previous saddle (pic related), which is very soft, the shock absorption is excellent, and I don't feel any discomfort and numbness under my balls, but the one thing that was bothering me was how sharply I felt my seat bones.
I guess I'll just have to get used to it.
>most of your weight should be on the pedals
I don't understand how that works on a city bike. My weight is definitely focused on the saddle when I'm riding almost upright.
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>>2022330
It's not that you will get used to it but you will actually break your ass in. That pain, healing, pain, healing, over time will make your ass stronger.

>I don't understand how that works on a city bike.
>My weight is definitely focused on the saddle when I'm riding almost upright.
Well sure, cruising around on some shitter you may be sitting down but if you're riding over anything which is rough and bumping your ass then that's not what you want to be doing and any practiced cyclist in pretty much any other discpline than city shitterism would do that naturally.
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>>2022330
>My weight is [...] on the saddle
This has nothing to do with upright or ypur position on the bike in general.
>should be on the pedals
Not really.
The fraction of your weight that is on the pedals depends on the fraction of your weight that is placed on the handlebars and the power you're currently putting out.
It is delusional in terms of human fitness to claim your weight 'should be' on the pedals. This would include endurance scenarios, which everything beyond a 4 kilo is to be realistic and as such almost all practical cycling.
You can simply calculate the power you're putting out at a certain cadence, assuming that none of your weight was on either the bars or saddle. For any fraction of your weight that was then carried by either the power output would correlate linearly.
If for example, you're 80 kg, pedalling at 90 rpm and your weight is carried by your pedals a quick calculation will tell you you're putting out 840W. If half of your body weight were carried by the saddle and bars you'd be doing 420W. Toasty and I guarantee there is not a single person on this board holding a consistent 420W for an hour on this board. I'd go as far as claiming half of that, 200 W, is more in the realm of practical cycling and actually going some distance. So that would be 3/4 of your weight being off your pedals.
This all goes out of the window if you're going for a kilo or flying 200. In that case you'll of course see more force than your weights equivalent on the pedals.
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>>2022336
How much of your weight is on the pedals is not related to what power you're doing.
Even if you're just cruising around and not pedalling at all, your weight can all be on the pedals

>depends on the fraction of your weight that is placed on the handlebars
Absolute nonsense, it has nothing to do with that. Practically none of your weight is ever on the bars.
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>>2022337
Unless you're fully or partially standing on the pedals, which is bad form and just wasting power it does.
Also alot of your weight can be on your bars. Get on a tribike, set up for your pelvis to be almost vertical above the BB. Get low of course. Alot of your weight will be on your bars. That's a very common thing.
>>2022337 inefficient pedalling and only ever on cruisers with apehangers
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>>2022326
Honestly bro, I just use whatever saddle I have that is reasonably close and send her down the road.
Works for me on 50 mile rides with 1-2 stops. Some are worse then others but they all work out in the end.
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>>2022336
I can do 200 watts for over 4 hours straight.
Is this any good? I dont really have a reference and i dont really care but it would be cool to know
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>>2022372
>200 watt
are you a toaster? enjoy the ride and stop being a nerd
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>>2022372
It's perfectly okay for someone who isnt competitive or say someone past their prime etc.
When looming around I'd say most NPCs you see out riding are below that in terms of fitness. Even the guys kitting up and buying the latest road bike only to slouch. Then again you can never know how long of a ride lies behind that guy and how much he's got ahead.
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>>2022374
oh and you're pretty gay btw.
I simply enjoy riding. I could even be a slowfag. A bit under two decades of competition got me to the point where I chose to just have less pain and hopefully be able to never having to choose any motorized means of transportation to get anywhere.
But that doesn't mean I need to forget everything about cycling, fitness or acquire an inability to smell BS like our guy up there literally not needing a saddle even when he sets out to do 300 km over the course of the day.
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>>2022372
>Is this any good?
sign up for a tt or some zwift racing or take a crack at some strava segments and find out
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>>2022257
Oh word, that's super encouraging.

Only problem, my road bike is older than I am and has one of those derailleur hangers that's built into the frame. Not sure how that would work for moving to a modern groupset.
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>>2022402
not him but post pics of your bike

>has one of those derailleur hangers that's built into the frame
that's a good thing
Aside from the french simplex meme, derailer hangers haven't really changed in more than 50 years. Now we have a variety of 'direct mount' options but they are pretty niche and you won't have to worry/think about them.
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>>2022377
Dang it took you 2 decades. half a decade was enough for me.
>>
Since this is "winter randonneuring" edition after all. What do you guys wear for long rides in serious cold or snow? I try to ride all year when the roads allow it, but it gets sub-15F fairly often where I am. A lot of fun to ride in, actually, very beautiful, but the toes become a major problem, especially when you're far from home and the blood sugar is not what it used to be.

Right now I'm wearing my work boots, greasing the hell out of em and wearing thick socks, which is working pretty well, but they're awfully heavy and the high-rise ankles aren't great. I'm thinking about getting a mid-rise pair just for riding, but I don't know.

Pic unrel. Just cool
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>>2022489
Winter is the best time to ride snce we don't get snow/cold.
I would recommend a fender and all the clothes in the closet.
jk but seriously I know some people use heated gloves/grips on motorcycles and that might be needed for you. Oh, and the windchill issue.
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>>2022489
my toes and feet never get too cold, but my hands do. lobster style gloves have been the warmest for me, but if it were colder where i live, i'd get some pogies. i've also seen heated insoles if your feet are getting cold.
>>
I got a bike fit, the guy was great, I had some knee problems he solved with cleat adjustments and my seat feels like a couch now. However, he also recommended a 60mm in place of the 100 I have on now. It's a road bike, how stupid am I going to look? He aaid the general bike size was ok, but my arms were overstretched.
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>>2022520
with a shorter stem i'd be more worried about it feeling twitchy rather than looking stupid
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>>2022520
It's 2024, can't have a stem any shorter than 100mm in 2024 or people will immediately spot the amateur. Better yet get a smaller frame and longer stem and seatpost. Pain is temporary but fame lasts for eternity.
>>2022489
I never get cold on a bicycle honestly. Even if its -12 C and I dress for the occassion, I end up needing to take the sweater or jacket off and go on wearing a shirt. Idk how one can freeze on a bike. The only thing that sucks ass is fingers and toes imo. No solution thus far. Not even overshoes seem to be able to keep my feet dry and toes fron freezing either.
Good thing is: Below freezing percipitation isn't liquid.
>>2022407
Thats just how long it took for me to finally say fuck it and call it quits. Past a certain point you wont ever again be as fast as you used to be anyways and wont leave your mark on the sport so why put up with it. I would even say the pain wasn't the primary driver but I believe what really made me think is, given the amount of damage that piles up during a season, I might find myself without functional legs in old age. After all the sensation isn't arbitary and despite regular doctor checks and reassurance that 'theres nothing wrong besides some calcification of tendons and ligaments and some athrosis' I could never convince myself there's no real and lasting damage somewhere.
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>>2022536
Thanks, ordering a 170mm stem now. Jk, I ordered the 60mm, but whoever I talked to (other cyclists) about it acted as if I was stupid to even consider doing that.for whatever reason.
>>
>hands hurt after long rides (200kms)
>try to get the weight more on my butt more
>still keep noticing I put more pressure when I'm on the hoods
I already have the perfect saddle height (I think). What else can I do? I'm maxed out on stem spacer height. Should I increase stem angle?
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>>2022541
Have you messed with saddle fore/aft and angle?
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what is the solution to this
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>>2022560
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>>2022554
Yeah. My ass seems not to stick to the back part and slips forward. Moving it forward will put more pressure on my hands right? Should I tilt it upward a bit?
>>
What do you guys do with your very first bicycle?
Do you keep it as a momento or you sell it for a better ride after experiencing the high and low of it for a more expensive/quality one?
I decided to buy a bike and have been pedalling to work for more than two years now, even under heavy rains. I have easily gotten a profit from not paying for gas every months,
lately i just feel like i should get something a bit more fancy.
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>>2022560
I used to be like "ride anyway" but riding every day in that kind of weather is deceptively expensive, if you're just looking to stay fit the anon suggesting the turbo trainer is not wrong, it may cost more now but the constant grit, soaking in road filth, and just general abuse from cold and wet riding on your bike and your clothing will quickly surpass the one-time cost of a trainer
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>>2022560
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>>2022568
I still have the frame from my first 'proper' bicycle as an adult. I should get rid of it but I kind of want to build it back up to ridable condition. Doesn't seem like I'll ever actually get around to doing that though, at this point.

>feel like i should get something a bit more fancy
You can if you want to. But don't feel that you 'should' just for the sake of it, if what you have works well for you.
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>>2022520
Just try it out. Mountain bikes run 0mm stems(heh) with a rise.
Modern bikes are pretty much sized off the stack and reach so if the reach is a little too long a shorter stem can be fine, as long as it isn't too twitchy like the other anon said.
It will take you a couple rides to adapt.
>>2022536
I am pretty suicidial so long term damage wasn't the issue for me, I just didn't care enough about competing in my teenage years and I had enough.
>>2022567
Try a notch higher saddle angle up the front. Tilt it up, since the saddle can help take away pressure on your hands.
>>2022568
Mine was given away since it was a xs mtb. My oldest bike that I still have is a commuter, was when I got it too.
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>>2022568
i still have the frame but its too small and not worth rebuilding
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>>2022572
This, but also, in that kind of weather, mittens on top. Just thin gloves will have very little effect when the weather is in the teens
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>>2022580
The fuck? Don't be silly. Everything above 10°C is warm. Mittens go on when it's starting to get down to -10°C.
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>>2022583
It will feel colder because of the windchill
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>>2022584
>windchill
That's what gloves are FOR.
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>>2022520
you could probably find shorter reach bars if you want a slightly longer stem

>>2022536
>given the amount of damage that piles up during a season
you talking crashes or? not trying to invalidate your experience but I came to cycling after being mostly too hurt to run and I haven't felt this good in years. obviously not rolling 30+hr weeks either though
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>>2022583
10F = -12C

I assumed poster was american based on the look of the pic desu but I guess that's not a given
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>>2022591
Then it wouldn't be raining.

But yeah, if it's -12°C then the answer is indeed liner gloves and mittens, or just some thicker winter gloves. And obviously you dress the rest of your body appropriately too.
>>
>>2022520
having personally gone from 80mm to 60mm due to arm pain on long rides, I say go for it. it was instantly noticable. I also have compact bars, but I didn't buy them intentionally, only because they were cheap and in the width I wanted.
you could try compact bars first if you don't already have them.
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>>2022567
yeah, I just did this on my recent build. I have the kind of seatpost with the notches. one notch upward eliminated my hand pain, it was crazy. the saddle feels a little funny when I first get on it but then it feels normal. I do have a huge cutout in the saddle, luckily
>>
>>2022587
I'm talking volume induced issues. There's a pretty universal truth regarding all endurace sports: It's an exercise in pain management. Every trainer, coach and team mate or club member will tell you that there is not a single other guy who is without pain and everybody gets told to suck it, man up and keep going. I do believe some are just not made for it and others more. So some develop issues sooner and worse. Wether those who 'make it' are just made for it or are actually even more determined and simply much less of a pussy idk. As for me, twice I got to the point where I could not walk, not one step. And I don't think I'm particularly sensitive either. Last time I was in hospital for surgery the nurses commented on two things: Being very uneasy about my resting heart rate and being flabbergasted when after surgery I explained that I have no pain and don't need anything against pain.
I'd say it takes not more than 2 years of actual hard full time training under the guidance of a coach to really know if you have a chance at making it or not.
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>>2022576
Well sorry for double posting >>2022605
I didn't read all the replies. Being absolutely fucked emotionally back then was probably what kept me going for a lomg time. For ages I was convinced I'd never reach the age I am at now. Which made for great confusion when things changed and I did eventually 30+. Bicycles saved my life, I'm pretty sure of that. In my late teens and early 20s I used to be hellbent on loosing it in traffic under circumstances that would be 'plausibly accidential'.
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>>2022317
This >>2022327 .
Also make sure that, in the position you habitually store your bike, there is drain holes at the lowest points. So BB when upright, rear dropouts when hung up etc.
Traditionally all steel bikes were rusty inside, because they were spray painted externally and that was it. They would rust but not fail in ages. If they would you'd just replace the tube or part (often the brake or chainstay bridge).
My dedicated winter bike, picrel, is all 4130 and I've decided to cook up paraffine wax with paraffine oil in a ratio that seems right. Apply by stuffing a bottle brush through all tubes. Dip smaller parts like forks and rear dropouts. Make sure all drain holes are free and do their job after this.
But yeah, the salt actually fucks: Hubs, BBs, spoke nipples and rims, brakes, driveline components.
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>>2022583
Finger gloves are children toys for cool misty days, I’ve given up on non-lobsters
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>>2022612
you're cool
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>>2022560
Relocate someplace with a better climate. I did a few years ago and it was the best decision ever.

>>2022568
I've had something like 25 personal bikes at this point (not counting ones I bought to fix and resell) and eventually you learn that no matter how much you love them, a bike is just a bike. Bicycles are mass produced objects to be used and eventually replaced, not holy relics or family heirlooms.

>>2022612
>>2022585
>>2022583
Personally I found that pogies were the for solution for cold weather riding (especially for temperatures well below freezing). For temperatures in the 0-5° range (or up to 10° when rainy) I would ride with no gloves, just pogies, and that worked better than any glove.
>>
>>2022568
keep the old one for when the new one is broken, or to ride in rain and snow, or to lend to a friend who wants to ride with you
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>>2022610
that's a cool looking bike but the black fenders really clash with the components. it would be super bling with chrome fenders
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>>2022633
well the brakes do too but theres brake laws here. You're right in chrome but I love the indestructibility of the plastic ones.
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>>2022624
What's the bike model? Some kind of touring bike you put 26 on? Rare to see 26+DT shifters, I like it. Pannier and saddle are sick as well, chef's kiss
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>>2022674
looks like a multitrack
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>>2022675
Guess he brazed on mounts maybe? Paint looks like it could be redone
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>>2022560
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>>2022675
nah its a 8XX
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Anyone know what maximum width tires can fit on a Kona Dew with full fenders?
It ships with 47-584 tires by default.
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>>2022769
If those are 47's then my guess is the front can take 60's and the rear probably 55 or so.
Really you will only know by going to it, measuring the current size tire, measuring all the clearences, and fudging a little smaller so you don't have tire rub when out of the saddle.
Pretty big either way and should be plenty for all the terrain you would do on a rigid bike.
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>>2021515
>bike just starts falling
That's when you're supposed to catch it. Don't worry about rolling back yet. If you're doing small circles, try to lean to the inside and wait for the bike to start to fall (to the inside). When it does, pedal just enough for it to get upright again. I think it's easier to do if you turn your wheel in the direction of your front foot.

The incline helps you with the other direction and trackstanding in one place. When you can do tight circles, go to an incline and position yourself at a 45 degree angle so that your front wheel points straight up the incline when you turn it. Now try doing the same thing as when riding in circles. If the bike starts falling to the inside, pedal forward (the incline will most likely keep you in one place), but if the bike starts leaning to the outside, let it roll back.
>>
>>2021515 I guess everyone learns it their own way. I'm sure >>2022806 works for them and maybe for you. What I did: Ride in a backwards circle. From there learn to fakie straight (you're actually only ever alternating left and right hand circles). At the same time you will naturally learn to trackstand. The theory is that you just constantly risk tipping over to one side but going forwards rights the bike again and then going backwards makes you stay on your spot but also tip you over a bit more, repeat. Now the thing with theory is: You'll never just implement the theory after understanding it. Your reflexes say no. But acquiring an intuition regarding riding fakie makes things click and makes you understand when to alternate between forwards and backwards.
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>>2022784
you think that fork can fit a 2.4" tire with full fender?
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>>2022819
I estimated without fender, and again the rear is the hard one to judge. I know it's 2024 and dealers DNE but this would be a good time to see one near you, measure, and estimate.
>>
There's a 2003 Giant Rincon frame in my condo basement. It doesn't belong to anyone currently living in the building (I've asked), and I kind of want to turn it into my all-season beater/commuter.

Only thing it looks like it needs as of now is a new seat. Worth it? I'd probably buy parts and upgrade things down the line at some point.
>>
>>2022679
that rain jacket will become completely soaked through 15 minutes into proper rain, you need an impermeable latex poncho.
>>
>>2022886
for the price of a seat, you can have a free bike.
your question is "is it worth it?"
if the answer is not completely obvious, then I don't know what to tell you, homie.
>>
As someone who is new to riding bike I have noticed one thing my legs feel worse and worse each time I ride my bike and I can't output the same energy I did 3 weeks ago. Am I doing something wrong or what?
>>
>>2022906
how much are you riding? you could be over doing it and not giving your legs a chance to recover.
>>
>>2022906
>>2022907
^This or you could be under-doing it by only riding it once a week and not letting your body actually get used to it
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>>2022906
I'd say that's quite normal
it takes a long time for your body to adapt to doing anything new physically, to get it in your muscle memory.
You're also hurting and rebuilding stronger a bunch of muscles you probably never used.

It's important your fit is right though. Set your saddle height correctly for leg extension.

It's also important to drink enough water (your piss should be light coloured), eat vegetables, and get enough protein, meat if you can afford it, or just do whey or whatever after a ride. If your muscles are sore you definitely need protein.

You should also focus on trying to ride smoothly, and pedal at a higher cadence. Ride at a pace you could ride at for an hour. Many new cyclists, especially men, sort of alternate between bursts of sprinting and lazily coasting. This can cause injury and it's not very good exercise.
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>>2022906
If you have soreness in between+ride your body is adapting. You will have off days, and generally the first time you ride it's going to feel great since you had all that recovery time.
If you feel worse after a month figure out if it's your recovery(sleep, food, protein, etc), intensity+frequency(too much of either and you won't recover) or something like muscle usage where you are pedaling at 40RPM and overusing the muscle instead of your cardio/heart.
>>
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$329 for one pair
Making those PAUL brakes look like a bargain
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>>2022907
>>2022908
>>2022934
I ride every day but only commute, so roughly 12km per day
>>2022935
I do get soreness between my rides but they go away after a good sleep but I still overly fatigued and perform worse from say, tuesday to friday and weekend is rest time and then again monday doing great and tuesday to friday doing worse
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>>2020978
How do I get a job as a mechanic, is volunteering for three months good enough?
>>
>>2022952
eh, that's if you're hellbent on restoring an old Rene Herse, probably the only game in town. Their "modern" cantis are in line with the Pauls. I run the Pauls on one bike, they stop my shit like a wall, just like oldass Mafacs, and I imagine the RH ones are the same. Cantis really got done dirty by dia-compe and the other shitters
>>2022953
maybe you're overdoing it on Monday, dial it back a notch
>>
>>2022953
Hmm thats really weird anon, 12km is next to nothing. Even if you do that everyday it shouldnt be to hard on your legs and you probably would already be much faster and stronger if you did that for a few weeks. What bike do you ride? Is the geometry alright? Seat height ok? Is the fit generally ok? Whats your typical pace/poweroutput/cadence?
>>
>>2022956
Might do so
>>2022959
I am a heavier rider 95kg, skinny fat. I don't have a power meter or anything similar. I was riding from the summer till today and during the summer I had more energy and I could basically ride all day long but after 3 weeks ago I just noticed I am feeling worse and worse even doing the same stuff nothing in general changed so that's why I am confused
>>
>>2022955
never volunteer for anything, don't be a sap
>>
>>2022960
do you vape?
>>
>>2022966
I don't smoke or vape but I do drink once every second or third week, happens a friday or saturday
>>
>>2022955
like at a shop?
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>>2022960
Eating enough/sleep?
Sounds like you are holding too much fatigue somehow. Could be unrelated to the cycling as well if anything else crazy happened recently.
>>2022964
Paul has been doing it for at least 2 decades.....
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>>2022987
I guess I am eating enough since I am not losing weight and still skinny fat at 95kg.
My sleeping time is between 5-7 hours, trying to get more but can't help waking up randomly. One thing I dislike recently is that my legs always feel tense and too firm to move around. I will continue my cycling and check up with doctors if nothing gets better
>>
>>2022989
Sounds like muscle soreness. I find walking can help after and it should get better over time.
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>>2022955
>How do I get a job as a mechanic, is volunteering for three months good enough?
the basic job in a bike shop is assembling new bikes, you'd get that, or a sales job, first.
Those are entry level jobs that you can get with practically no experience, and the right business would be interested in training you to be a mechanic from that. There are Shimano courses.

Definitely don't try and volunteer at a bike shop (a business). You could volunteer at a non-profit co-op / bike kitchen though. That would be helpful.

The other thing you can do is try get some local cash work doing the jobs you know you're good at. Charge like 20-30 / hour and you're massively undercutting bike shop labour. Keep the explanations / diatribes to a minimum (people don't like having anything explained to them and won't trust your diatribes unless you seem very legit). You won't really make money on parts without a trade account but some stuff can be bought online quite a lot cheaper and marked up to RRP. I'd suggest doing it with the ethos to not open cans of worms and not sweat underlying problems too much. Most bikes can be much improved by aligning the hanger, tightening all the bolts, lubing the chain, tuning the indexing, and adjusting the brakes. Clean them. Offer new grips / pedals. People will pay for that stuff and notice the difference. Whereas until you have trust, people will not appreciate learning their chain is stretched or their bearings pitted, especially do not cause issues you can't fix.
>>
>>2022997
solid advice
>>
Help! This part broke on my bike caliper and I'm wondering if these are replaceable it's a tektro Aries

And my crank sounds like it crushes in one specific spot on the left side when I'm pedaling, what can I do?
>>
>>2023085
>broke
broke how?
yes barrel adjusters are fairly generic but if the piece it threads into is fucked up i don't see how you could possibly replace that

those are pretty shit brakes so it would be nice to upgrade away from them if the bike is otherwise solid, especially if it's an e-bike.

>crank sounds like it crushes in one specific spot
could be a tonne of different things. Try to wiggle your crank arms laterally, if there's play that is a sure sign your bottom bracket is fucked. Could also be your pedals. Could also be rubbing on something.
Get a ratchet strap with a hook on it, tie it around a rafter or a bough or something and hang your bike. Then you can pedal and observe it. I have an actual workstand but hang stuff often, especially heavy bikes. Highly suggest that as a budget option. You should also strap your front wheel to your downtube when working on it to keep it from flopping around in your way.
>>
recommendations for a 2k € budget?
intended for urban use but mainly (and hopefully extensive) bike touring/packing, probably through all sorts of terrain, but not specifically ultra technical MTB trails (which is a questionable practice imo anyway).
i'm not set on buying new per se, and my previous bike was a used road bike which i bought cheaply and used for years, but my needs and budget have changed then, and so has the second hand market around here; it's horribly cluttered.

I'm also thinking of outlet hopping. anything to look out for? as far as frame, geo, material, consumables etc go
>>
>>2023131
>touring
i would be after a GRX bike with a subcompact double (46-30 or 44-28 etc) and an actual wide range cassette, ie, 11-40 or wider.

A lot of gravel bikes spec compact cranksets, ie 50-34 and 11-36 cassettes. Proper long cage GRX mechs exist but many of them are 34/36t max.
Refer to traditional touring gearing where you have a 22t-26t granny on your triple and a 34 or 36t low on the cassette. You want equivalent to that with a double on your modern gravel bike and many of them aren't low enough.

I would also focus on getting the front bosses you want. Imo the best setup is probably fork cages (lighter, more aero) so i'd want 2-3 midfork bosses for that. And you also want a carbon or cromo fork, not allum.
>>
>>2022513
>>2022612
1+3 or 2+2?
>>
I took a 5 days break from riding my bike to recover from soreness and pain, legs feel good and no more stress. My concern now is, will I be able to ride normally or have I lost some strength?
>>
>>2020998
Bro in my darkest days I did a lot of riding on ampethamines.
luckily those days are past me but damn it was fun.

nowadays a scoop of phenibut and some good music help me really get into it.

>>2021007
Continental race king 2.2 was my go to all purpose for years.

>>2021887
mini velos are hot
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>>2023183
Why don't you ride and find out, instead of asking random anonymous strangers on the internet?
Personally I think it's entirely possible you've actually gained some strength during your rest.
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>>2023188
>Why don't you ride and find out, instead of asking random anonymous strangers on the internet?
Hoping to hear someone with experience giving me their input
>Personally I think it's entirely possible you've actually gained some strength during your rest.
I will ride after work
>>
Good evening I am new to this and just today bought this tunturi bike for 30e. I went to see my friend at the homeless shelter and this speedy bicycle thief pro told me that the back tire is from different model. Also the chain keeps jumping and 50% that it changes gear or stays on same or jumps out.
Can I put stickers on it, or will rain wash them away. I bought it to take it for a few thousand kilometer urban camping hiking trip next summer. Is it ok to drive fast speeds while high on acid or weed?
>>
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This is the bike. I cannot change gear
Do you listen to kraftwerk while cycling?
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>>2023248
god help you, my son
>>
can I get a are on winter tires. Are they a meme? My area does get 4 seasons but most winters aren't too crazy.
>>
>>2023282
Studded tyres are a game changer if you live someplace where temperatures reach freezing point. Unless you also don't get any precipitation, but I don't know where that would be.
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>>2023247
the bike originally had a wheel with one gear on it and now it has 3? 5? can't see.
since the bike originally sold with only one gear, it didn't come with any means to switch multiple gears; in other words, it has no derailleur.
the reason it's switching by itself (I think) is the chain is not sized to any particular gear so it's loose and hopping around.
solutions: you may be able to mount a rear derailleur (you'll probably need a new chain to fit the over the largest cogs) and a shifter that matches your gear cluster, then you can use all the gears. the derailleur keeps tension on the chain so it only moves when you shift.
I would seriously look into getting a cluster with more gears or a different wheel with more gears if you have less than 7, which is what it looks like if you go this route . the parts aren't very expensive although a new wheel would be somewhat expensive, it's hard to justify spending it because it'll probably be more than 30 euro that the bike cost.
easier and cheaper: size the chain to one gear, loosen the axle. push the axle far back into the dropout while being sure the tire is centered right and left and bolt it back down. now it won't skip but you only get a single gear. if it's flat where you live, go for the little gear. hills? go for the big one. you will need a chain tool or pay a shop. you may need a longer chain to fit the bigger gears.

best: buy a different bike with functional gearing. either of the above solutions are going to be near what you paid for that whole bike. if you're going on a tour, you really want a lot of gears, including 2 or 3 on the crank, to carry travel supplies and go up hills.
just resell what you have and get what you need.

people ride on weed all the time and even acid, but I wouldn't recommend high speed since it'll blow your high to overexert yourself and as a noob or even experienced it could be dangerous
>>
>>2023248
how long have you been homeless for?
>>
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>>2023337
Great answer. I will ss this and make the gears work when snow comes. Today I tightened the chain by moving the wheel. I also noticed the wheel was bend badly in many places. But i got it much straighter in an hour of hammering and tightening the spokes. I notice its much harder to ride than normal bike. But now mechanically its stable. I did 10km yesterday and plan to do 30 tomorrow. I think im falling in love with this bike. Been dreaming about doing 700km tour to see friends in different cities.
>>2023339
Im not. My friend is. He wont come live with me because the shelter offers food and jobs
>>
>>2023237
>Hoping to hear someone with experience giving me their input
Or, you know, you could gain first hand experience yourself. You have the means.
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>>2023159
thinking of going with the salsa fargo. probably overpriced but haven't encountered many convincing cheaper options. just too many bikes out there. not sure about the drop bar but i'll go for test ride first. wonder what people itt think about drop bars for touring/''bikepacking''. not like pic related was exceptionally extreme but certainly imagine having a drop bar here would have been less comfortable/safe.
at 1x11 11/42 rear 32 front the gear range may be a bit too limited on the apex 1 set, so i might look at installing a subcompact double front if possible in the future like you're saying.
>midfork bosses
i was looking at cargo cages for the fork as well but realistically how much/what can you put in there? same deal with those triangular framebags. interesting weight distribution for sure but idk.

as far as bikepacking as opposed to traditional touring is concerned, as fun as offroad cycling is, i wonder if it isn't too unresponsible from an environmental point of view sometimes... interested to hear other people's thoughts on this.
general thoughts about the salsa fargo are appreciated as well.
>>
>>2023444
Fork cargo is dumb, small bags with annoying weight distribution, and it’s not even compatible with suspension or many front racks. The fork should be the LAST place you mount cargo, after your rear rack, framebag, and handlebar cargo is already fully loaded. Framebags make their weight the least noticeable and are logically the first place you should put cargo; unfortunately they’re also kinda tiny. Framebag first, then handlebar bag then a rack (rear or front is personal preference, I like rear), then a second rack, and THEN fork cargo if you still need it.
A modern adult man who is productive in western culture does not need to care how dirty his aluminum bicycle’s manufacture was. And being a participant/advocate of public outdoor recreation, inviting other people to actually give a shit about the dirt on the mountains, getting people to use the trails, which helps them stay protected, makes a much bigger global impact than whether your bicycle’s aluminum refining was 20% more or less efficient than it could’ve been.
You know what helps the environment? Getting a dirt jump park instead of a burger king, getting 50 square miles of trails instead of 50 square miles of clear-cut logging, proper bike paths and routes that encourage less driving, more bikes not less bikes
>>
what is the CASIO fw-91w or AK-47 etc. of bikes?
>>
>>2023458
>You know what helps the environment? Getting a dirt jump park instead of a burger king, getting 50 square miles of trails instead of 50 square miles of clear-cut logging, proper bike paths and routes that encourage less driving, more bikes not less bikes
i agree. my concern was more of a vegetational one, considering the impact of a loaded bike compared to that of a hiker on the same trail. and yea makes sense re: fork cargo
>>
>>2023462
90s rigid mtb. make sure the frame is your size. slick tires if using it on roads. knobbies for offroad. if doing both, some tread is ok but it's easier to ride off-road on slicks than on-road on knobbies imo
>>
>tfw can't decide whether to do big mostly road (but sometimes pretty bad roads) tour on Jones LWB (heavy, comfy, already own it) or buy Disc Trucker
>tfw would kinda like to buy domestic but usa made tourers are crazy expensive, especially considering spec
>tfw less interested in cheaper imported tourers though REI house brand is hmmm interesting
>tfw mostly ride carbon road bike at home and maybe I can do some kind of Lachlan Morton alt tour setup
>tfw he gets free bikes from his sponsor though
>tfw want to cut the enemy when I take sword in hand but also want to LARP as various people I've seen on social media, forums, etc
>tfw
>>
>>2023458
>A modern adult man who is productive in western culture does not need to care how dirty his aluminum bicycle’s manufacture was.
Fuck you.
>>
>>2023507
Worrying about your one-off purchase of 30lbs of taiwanese metal that you use to have hundreds of hours of entertainment exercising outside is only distracting you from the big things like not buying disposable shit and expensive conveniences four times a day, or not using your car to move 10 miles in 30 minutes over and over, or the several dozens of thousands times greater environmental magnitude of a large business making a 1% cheaper decision, “justified” by whatever benefits they can make up. “The environmental impact of someone bikepacking” isn’t a thing
>>
>>2022964
AFAIK there really aren't that many. Shimano still makes their own, I think. SRAM still makes the Shorty Ultimate. Tektro and Diacompe white label for a shitload of brands, while Paul is their own thing in California. I don't know who makes the RH brakes but they're made in Taiwan, so either Tektro or Diacompe. I'm sure there are some random Chinese factories churning crap out. Used to be a lot more when cantis were still standard on CX and MTBs, now the action is with MTB disc, where there's at least a dozen companies making shit (Shimano, SRAM, Magura, Hayes, Hope, Formula, Tektro/TRP, Trickstuff, Intend, Paul, Juin Tech/Yokozuna, Promax)
>>
Could I put a 12 speed crankset on an otherwise 10 speed Red drivetrain? Any idea what chain 10,11,12 would work best?
>>
>>2023508
>“The environmental impact of someone bikepacking” isn’t a thing
when waging it against the impact of "large businesses" or anything measurable on a global scale sure, but on a micro level maybe the toll of bikepacking vs hiking a certain trail is considerable enough to at least raise into question. even dismissing the vegetational question, riding whatever trails are referred to as single track (e.g. GR etappes come to mind) with a bike is wont to create some amount of tension or grievance in the minds of pedestrian hikers walking the same path. maybe that's something to take into account, though fair enough if you figure they just have to deal with it.
>>
>>2023574
I’d like a census of how much of the population does outdoor recreation on a regular basis, you’re right im not thinking of hikers vs bikers, but outdoor people vs sedentary/convenience-driven people in general
>>
>>2022903
Well shit, turns out it's a 14" frame, way too small for me
>>
I went to my local public bicycle workshop and it was a community of liberal hipsters. Is everywhere like this? And only white people. Though I mostly see wolt niggas on serious bicycles
>>
>>2023645
>a commune run by volunteers in order to recycle and distribute parts for fees that only cover rent and electricity, not any profit, is full of liberal hipsters
gee, you don't say.
mine in Atlanta is run at least half by black people, though. not really blipsters. the white people are liberal but mostly normal I guess, they're more dorky bike nerds more than they are hipsters but of course there's overlap
>>
>>2023645
>local public bicycle workshop and it was a community of liberal hipsters. Is everywhere like this?
Yes. Because 'public', 'bicycle' and 'community' are communist words.
>>
>>2023645
I am going to my local one soon looking for parts. I ride with some of the volunteers and they are just older dudes, I presume it will be mostly bike people and younger ones with liberal personalities.
Luckily I blend in with that group well enough and am open minded.
>>2023237
Our bodies are all different and supercompensate after exercise differently.
However there is a 99% chance when you aren't sore and your joints feel good.... you are good.
Like most physical activities your "fitness" declines over time starting after you are fully recovered. Good news is the pathways you build from before training are still there.
This is how "fat" ex fit people can diet or do a huge body transformation fast since they were fit before.
It's also why people rebound so easily from losing weight on a suicide cut.
>tl:DR
Go ride. When the soreness goes away go ride. When your knees hurt ride very easily or walk. Pump blood into that area.

>>2023248
go to sheldon browns website and learn. Lot to learn on your.... ride my guy.



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