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File: trek_8700_086_300.jpg (52 KB, 535x700)
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Super Big Fork edition

Resources:
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/
https://www.parktool.com/en-us/blog/repair-help
RJ the bike guy on youtube
Previous thread: >>2020978
>>
SUPERBIGFORK
>>
Are there any bottle cages worth looking at over at the express from ali?
I want something silver, preferably matte, and the "titanium" bottle cages over there foot the bill, but $10 shipped feels a bit too good to be true, and searching for steel yields very little.
>>
>>2024324
i like the carbon ones that trace velo recommended. they're just bottle cages, it's not like you need very high quality expensive stuff.
>>
>>2024321
>tfw there are more 26" frames out there than there are 26" forks in the world, and this makes fork replacement for 26" bikes expensive
>>
I've got a SERIOUS PROBLEM. How do I de-rust my Bike? I bought so Gel and wire brush which did nothing
>>
I have an old MTB I want to convert to single speed a drop bar "gravel bike".
What kind of chainring/cassette do I need as a one-size-fits-all if I'll mostly be riding in the city?
>>
>>2024341
Spray some water and rub aluminium foil on it.
>>
>>2024341
For chrome I use 0000 steel wool, for painted sections I use a wire wheel on my dremel and touch it up later.
>>2024346
If flat and it's a 26in bike I would use something like a big ring 42 or 44 with a rear sprocket like a 17 or 18. You can use cassette spacers and just use a cog from an 8 speed cassette if you have a freehub. Make sure it's aligned, then use a derailleur as the tensioner, or use one of those conversion tensioners.
>>
>>2024348
Thanks. Yes, it's a 26 inch and it's flat where I live.
The MTB is also a bit too large for me. Would a very short stem cause issues with a drop bar?
>>
>>2024349
Should be fine. If the bike feels twitchy you should adapt, but if that doesn't work then you can think about slightly longer stems.
>>
>>2024341
brake cleaner worked pretty well for me
>>
>>2024341
sand paper, rough and then fine then get the dust off and repaint. really crusty stuff maybe a file or like a metal pot scrubber before sandpaper. on chrome use vinegar or coke and a ball of aluminum foil.
>>
>>2024350
Is there a rule of thumb for the distance between the seatpost and the handlebar clamp for a gravel bike?
>>
>>2024347
You sure?

>>2024348
It's in the chain and screws so hard to get to, not the frame>>2024354

>>2024354
Better than dust remover? How doe that work?
>>
>>2024356
>You sure?
That's how I got the surface rust off the chromed fork parts and brake rotors.
I heard you can also use WD40 instead of water with the foil.
>>
>>2024356
For allen screw heads I use a tiny brass wheel on a dremel.
For rusty stuck screws I use a penetrant, then a mallet+wrench.
If that doesn't work I will use heat as a last resort, but on bikes I haven't had a big issue.

For chains I dump them in a rust remover compound, soak, and pull out.
>>
>>2024357
Sounds too simple, but alright
>>
>>2024360
Thanks, I didn't know rust was something that could just be scraped off. What's the rust remover compound you use? I got some green rust remover gel which was useless, I'm not sure what it even was
>>
>>2024391
Sand paper works good, wire wheels do too but you need a drill/dremel and to be easy on the pressure, so sandpaper works better in your instance.

For the chain I just used engine coolant flush, but whatever rust remover you have locally should work at a home depot/hardware store.
Just read the instructions and don't leave it in there too long.
>>
>>2024391
Oh, and if you do go for sandpaper smaller number "grits" are harsher, so will remove more material.
Good if your shit is super rusty or you want to remove paint fast. Something like 80 or 120. 220 is alright too. I use water with it since that prolongs the paper's life and removes rust/paint from the paper.
>>
>>2024324
the actual fuck you retard?

bottle cages are the worst thing to spend money on. The most basic aluminium ones are the best
>>
>>2024349
>The MTB is also a bit too large for me.
not suitable for a drop bar conversion. Drop bars add a significant amount of reach.
>>
>>2024354
>sand paper, rough and then fine then get the dust off and repaint.
terrible advice

repainting a bicycle is almost always a bad idea

>>2024341
post some pics. This is an IMAGE BOARD
what are you actually fucking talking about?
>>
>>2024396
As long as you don't by cheap crap that will soon break on you, or you'll end up spending more in the long run in replacements than you would have if you'd gotten decent quality ones in the first place.
>>
I bought a pair of 1+3 mitts for winter riding because anons in the last thread were shilling lobster gloves. It's not cold enough here to use them yet, so I don't know if that was a worthwhile purchase or not.
>>
>>2024400
No, absolutely wrong, this is an area where the 'cheap crap' is absolutely good enough, infact it's better.

the most shittest cheap generic bottle cages take AGES to break unless you're repeatedly bending them to fit different sized bottles, and their ability to do so is a feature that makes them superior to other designs.

Basically they break at the spot where the tube is welded but it's really not something to worry about because it takes a long time to happen and if you just use one size of bidon it's not going to happen and if it does happen then what, you learn a <$5 lesson which doesn't affect anything else.

I do believe in buying quality but this is really the last place where that applies. There isn't even any preformance advantage. Weight savings on bottle cages are ridiculous and incredibly inefficient and any design which doesn't allow you to fit a multitude of sized bottle is shit for a beater.
>>
>>2024404
Not only that when it does break you might have a chance to stop, pick up the bottle, and ride away.
>>
they don't even look better. Bikes with King cages are worse than people with CK headsets

It's cringe fuel
>>
>>2024405
it won't even eject the bottle when it breaks lol
>>
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>have a carved brooks saddle
>trying to tighten the lacing
>seatpost bolt gets in the way (the one where you tighten in from the bottom, pic is close to what I have)
I need to get a new seatpost anyway. Any recommendations what type of seatpost that's easy to adjust and doesn't get in the way of my saddle?
>>
>>2024410
this is my favorite type desu
it adjusts from the side
>>
>>2024404
>the most shittest cheap generic bottle cages take AGES to break
You have obviously not used the same shit as me.

>then what, you learn a <$5 lesson
Yeah, I did learn a lesson: that cheap crap is crap. Now I use mid-tier bottle cages that I'm much happier with.
>>
>>2024410
My favorite is that style. After that race face makes some side bolt seatposts, ritchey has too. I find them a little more finicky to get the saddle on the first time, but easier to adjust afterwards.
>>
File: Sprint-105.jpg (503 KB, 1500x925)
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so i've spotted this deal on a bianchi sprint, carbon, 105, rim brakes for €1400 which is like half of the RRP. problem is i currently have a cannondale that works fine, but lower specced. aluminium, claris. will i regret not getting the bianchi when it's sold out?
>>
>>2024423
>will i regret not getting the bianchi when it's sold out?
Most likely, yes.
>>
>>2024425
storing it inside is not an option btw so it would have to sleep on the street, does that make a difference?
>>
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I have no questions but I do have an answer
>get one pressman pump for 25 bucks
>every FUCKING time I used it, I failed to bump my tires/break the valve
>get a new pump for 50 bucks at the same shop
>quick, seamless, and easy
I'm not gonna pretend that I was smart, if I really was smart I would get it from amazon/read reviews. But what I am trying to say is do not get this type of pump, and don't get it cheap from a bike store, get it cheap on amazon with good reviews.
Or just listen to other anons, I have no clue what I'm doing.
>>
>>2024426
Dude, I'm not you. I don't know the first thing about you or your life. Take responsibility for your own decisions.
>>
>>2024432
>bike question thread
>lol figure it out yourself
why even reply then?
>>
>>2024433
Not him but can confirm that I also do not want to buy that bike.
>>
>>2024400
I've literally never broken a bottle cage in my life. Infact I've never even bought a bottle cage before. I always just remove the from any bike I'm selling and hoarde them lol
>>
>>2024403
Ok
>>
>>2024423
Such an ugly bike
>>
>>2024432
Retards like you should never enter the bike QUESTION thread
>>
>>2024398
>repainting a bicycle is almost always a bad idea
ok but if you remove the rust you're down to bare steel and then it'll just rust again and faster if you don't paint it or put linseed oil or something.
I was just imagining he had spots of rust and he'd just touch it up with nail polish or something but doing a whole frame is a huge job, yes. but if he did that, he'd have to finish it with something also.
>>
>>2024410
supposedly the Velo Orange Gran Cru is designed with the Brooks in mind. I've used that post but not a Brooks, though. the post is great and it has the 2 bolt adjustment which is easy and nice but not sure how it affects the laces on a Brooks
>>
>>2024426
I mean if your Cannondale is safe out there then it's not like the Bianchi is going to be more of a target. but that's weird and bad for the bikes. at least use some type of cover to keep the rain off.

are you sure you're going to notice a difference with slightly better spec? genuinely asking. not sure it's worth it but nothing wrong with half price if you want it.
>>
recommendations for a 35mm tubeless road tire that doesn't cost $70+?

I've been using Pirelli cinturato velos and they're good, only had one single puncture in over 12k miles using them on pretty rough roads but they wear out pretty fast, about 6-7k miles and they are very worn out. I ride around 800+ miles per month so they don't last the full year and I'm tired of spending so much on tires.
>>
Pad wear auto-adjustment no longer works on my TRP HY/RD
pads still have lots of life in them, I don't want to throw them away.
any ideas?
>>
>>2024440
because of the color? or the fat frame?
>>2024444
>are you sure you're going to notice a difference with slightly better spec?
i might notice the weight difference with a carbon frame? i don't think the drivetrain would make that much difference though. i could technically store the bike somewhere but it's a huge hassle and requires taking the front wheel off so it's not really an option for frequent use.
>>
>>2024423
if you already have a carbon fork and it's r2000 claris then I think you'd actually regret upgrading because the difference will be marginal.

You should buy some nicer wheels / tires instead.

If your bike is worn out or doesn't fit you well or you don't like the colour then it's another story.
>>
>>2024429
tip for you that most noobs don't do

point your valves to the sky when you attach a pump. This avoids damage, especially with presta
>>
>>2024433
>>2024441
A very general answer was given to an extremely subjective question. At some point you just gotta stop spoonfeeding retards.
>>
>>2024442
rust ≠ surface rust
>>
>>2024433
He didn't ask a technical question, it doesn't require any expertise to answer. He's basically spitballing.

And it's clearly not possible to give him any helpful advice, so telling him to work it out himself is fair, however, he also probably knows this and just wants a pointless comfy discussion which is also fair so you're all in the wrong
>>
>>2024459
i think i'll stick to my current bike then, thank you!
>>
>>2024321
I got my rear gears replaced and now the chain fails off if use anything but the hardest gear. I feel a skipping/crunching when I peddle to hard or at all. I had to stop to put the chain back on every five minutes. This is after taking it for repairs twice. I don't know if I should take it back to a shop ro replace it.

I'm also a poor fag who needs this bike to get anywhere. I can't carry groceries like this.
>>
>>2024482
>I feel a skipping/crunching when I peddle to hard or at all.
Sounds like you didn't get a new chain when you got new gears.
>>
>>2024483
The guy at first shop said that he replaced the chain. The second place said he only needed to tighten something. Are the bike shops in my area fucking with me? Should I go back and ask?
>>
>>2024482
>rear gears
the cassette?
>chain falls off after 2 repairs
what did they do in the previous repairs? maybe your chain or chainring is just worn, or your fd is misaligned. if it's old you might just want to replace the whole drivetrain at once instead of doing it part by part, and the bike shop should've told you this
>>
>>2024484
They are fucking with you. Either get a better shop, or learn it yourself.
If it feels crunchy and it's skipping on gears besides the hardest one the cable tension and adjustments are off so each shift you do is shifting the cable to the wrong location, so once you put power down the chain moves.
>>
>>2024482
almost as if posting a picture of your bike on this image board when asking for help with it would be helpful
>>
>>2024355
yes, it's to match your body and arms you retard lol
>>
>>2024484
What you should do is learn to do this type of maintenance on your bike yourself so you don't have to pay someone to do it for you (and apparently fuck it up for you). Particularly if you're a poorfag, and doubly so if you rely on your bike as primary means of transportation.
>>
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>>2024423
You might as well buy it because you'll regret it either way but the regret of not doing something and wishing and wondering forever is 10x way more painful. Your bike is good enough, and the upgrade isn't substantial, you'll be pumped for a month then it'll even out and you won't feel any different rising this at all.

But as I said, go ahead because you're a silly boy and you'll just cry about missing this great deal. Please update us either way
>>
>>2024518
i think i'll stick to my current as it does look a bit nicer and i can put money towards a wider range cassete and derailleur or something like that. also a carbon bianchi might also be more of a theft magnet.
>you're a silly boy and you'll just cry
pls no bulli :*
>>
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>>2024494
Sorry, the sad and drunk anime girl was what I was feeling. I can't remember how old this bike is, but I have been relaying on it as if it where a car for the last two years. I don't even know if this is good for 4-8 mile trips.
I'm not so poor that I can't buy a new bike but it would be another cheep one ($500 or less.)
>>2024485
>what did they do in the previous repairs?
Replaced the cassette and chain. Guy at the first shop said it was to old and stiff. I don't think the second place did anything, said he tighten something but nothing got better.
>>
>>2024537
i think you should replace the front chainring with a narrow-wide or attach a chain guide like picrel. and if the chain is skipping on the cassette maybe try indexing it following the park tool tutorial.
>>
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>>2024539
>>2024539
>replace the front chainring
It's the part of the system that hasn't been replaced yet. The skipping happens at the chainring after the cassette was replaced. It's only happens while riding under load and thats where the chain drops.
>>
>>2024546
yeah it doesn't look narrow-wide and doesn't have a chain guide, so of course the retention is going to be bad. was it converted from single speed or something?
>>
>>2024539
yeah bro while you're at it add a lev circuit dropper post and ultradynamico cavas, this is reasonable
>>
>>2024549
???
a chain guide is like 10 bucks and will stop the chain from falling off. if the chainring is worn replacing it with a narrow-wide is very reasonable with a 1x.
>>
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>>2024547
>was it converted from single speed or something?
It's a 7 speed but now I can only use the top one. I got this bike at a Costco maybe three years ago. I use it as a commuter in a US suburb with some parts having steep hills. Otherwise it's on mostly flat roads.
>doesn't have a chain guide
There was a guide between the chainring and pedals, but it broke the first time the chain dropped.
>>2024550
>if the chainring is worn replacing it with a narrow-wide is very reasonable with a 1x.
I ride it like a 1x but I probably shouldn't.
>>
>>2024551
>I can only use the top one
only the highest gear? try indexing it
>There was a guide but it broke
well there's your problem
>I ride it like a 1x
1x refers to the amount of front chainrings, it is not the same as single speed. in your case it would be a 1x7, not a 1x1.
>>
>>2024551
>I got this bike at a Costco
might be time to get a real bike instead of a BSO.
>>
>>2024550
I know this stuff is hard for some of you zoomers but for someone riding a bicycle on pavement under normal commuting conditions, there is a simple solution to chains getting thrown and that is to look at the condition and setup of the existing parts, not to upgrade to meme parts invented to extract an extra 5% less chain throwing when racing off road. chains do not "just fall off" every 5 minutes on a correctly set up drivetrain (pro tip: skipping under load is a sign of a not correctly set up drivetrain), and a drivetrain that is doing that is not a problem that narrow wide or chainguides were invented to fix

either his derailleur is fucked up or his derailleur hanger is bent or there's something up with the chain or maybe his freewheel is starting to seize due to any number of possible maintenance or quality control issues
>>
>>2024555
fucking THANK YOU
bike community has uprade itis but can't have maintenanceitis
>>
>>2024557
I don't even mind upgrade-itis, I'm a incorrigible upgrade cuck and I'll come up with just about any irrational justification for why I absolutely need to get rid of a perfectly good part and replace it with something cool, but some of the advice ITT makes me want to tear my hair out
>>
>>2024555
you are a retard, as anon said the bike already had a chain guide which broke off. since it doesn't have a front derailleur there is nothing keeping the chain on the front chainring, thus it would be smart to put a cheap chain guide on it in addition to fixing the issue with the derailleur. calm your tits grandpa.
>>
>>2024560
the chainring looks pristine and the absence of a chain guide isn't going to magically throw the chain off the ring. even if the crankset wasn't properly installed and had 10mm of lateral play it wouldn't cause this unless there was an object physically impinging on the chain when it wobbles (such as a chain guide, which under those conditions actually *would* cause the chain to fall off)

I guarantee you the issue is coming from something in the back (very unlikely to be the chain itself). the fact that some shop monkeys just did a bunch of work and suddenly op can't go 5 minutes without dropping a chain should have been the tell

if the freehub/freewheel wasn't spinning freely then you would see it behave "best" on the smallest cog and "worst" on the largest, because the forward rotation would cause the least forward chain movement

the chain skipping gears under load might be an unrelated issue, but that RD looks like a PITA to index. so let's imagine for a second that the shop monkey forgot a spacer or a wave washer or something, and didn't notice and just tightened the fuck out of it. this would make the cassette not spin well, and it would also throw off the existing indexing

they usually put the least experienced mechs on the least expensive bikes so it would make perfect sense for something like this to happen, back in the day when I had a cheap commuter bike I had to learn my own maintenance because half the time I'd take my bike in for something trivial and I'd roll it out with a new life threatening problem that wasn't there before and should not have been allowed to leave the shop
>>
>>2024560
That's literally not his problem.

>>2024551
Go watch some park tool rear derailleur setup videos. You seem to have the cable housing, and cable, so after that your front shifter just has to pull enough cable that the derailleur moves the chain over. This is where your issue is.
>>
>>2024523
Kek

You've been wise, well done. So show us your bike, you can't say it looks nicer without showing it (Is it pic related?)
>>
>>2024564
>front shifter
you either mean rear shifter or "shifter that's located in front on the handlebars"
>>
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>>2024565
i should have specified, the silver frame looks nicer to me. bit of an old pic, i've since changed some things
>>
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>>2024554
I found what bike it is.
https://www.infinitycycleworks.com/product/infinity-boss-three-7-speed-700c-ladies-comfort-bike/
I don't think this is meant for long commutes (on roads with some bumps) and hauling groceries. I should probably be asking what bike I should replace it with rather then how to fix it.
>>
>>2024574
LOOK YOU FUCKING BOOMERS IT HAS A THING TO KEEP THE CHAIN IN PLACE
>>
>>2024574
It's not great but it's not horrifying. If you want to be stubborn about it while still upgrading its functionality you could just take the frame, seatpost, bars, fork, and pedals, replace the drivetrain with a nexus hub, and put a hub dyno in front. It wouldn't be *my* choice of what to commute on, but a lot of people have commuted on worse

But if it's your main transportation you probably can't afford to take it out of commission to tinker with parts, in which case just buy a trek fx and be done with it
>>
>>2024567
It's not bad
>>
If you're running 1x with a rear derailleur you NEED a narrow-wide chainring or a chain guide.
>>
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>>2024587
>If you're running 1x with a rear derailleur you NEED a narrow-wide chainring or a chain guide.
That's not true. I have a bike setup like that and the chain retention is fine as long as you're not popping off curbs or riding trails.

problem is that ops bike is mega cheap shit. I think you're right that a chain guide is a good solution. I would just use an old front derailer where the cage can be split with a screw so he doesn't have to break his chain to install it, and where the low limit can be wound in enough to put it in the right place. Those work well as chain guides.

I think his chain is also probably too long. Shortening it to the minimum possible length to wrap the big cog would help chain retention. It's also worth seeing if the derailer pivots smoothly, and that could probably be improved, but really, some parts bin altus/ acera mech would be a big upgrade which wouldn't have to cost anything and would help.

>>2024555
mate his drivetrain is complete shit. That's the problem. He's already had several mechanics futzing with it. A chain guide is a bandaid solution but it's not a bad idea and the cost for a chinese one, or, a parts bin fd, is minimal.
>>
He's probably also got a hub shell which is machined with a fucktonne of wobble which is contributing to his chain being thrown.
That isn't something that can be fixed.
>>
>>2024584
>replace the drivetrain with a nexus hub, and put a hub dyno in front
what the fuck no
no no no
no
no

jesus
>>
>>2024537
for the chain length, shift to the biggest gear and see how it looks.
You probably now want it to be 'about to explode' length, like pic rel. That isn't really the right way to setup 1x and might cause problems with your plastic derailer, but it will improve chain retention.
>>
>>2024574
post craigslist and height lets see what your used market is like
>>
It’s crazy that people know enough about 1x to actually want it yet they always miss the fact that you can get a complete current-gen 1x12 11-50 setup for BSA threaded and HG cassette for like $200
brand new
That’s the route I went for my 1996 bike after seeing that “repairing/modifying/fixing” old crap with the “appropriate” parts is really an expensive and time consuming goose chase these days when modern backwards-compatible replacements exist and thrive and maintain support
>>
I went out of my way to one of the few remaining independent bike shops today to buy some pedals. I figured it probably will cost me an extra $40 more than online, but I should support the little guy, I don't need the $40 that badly, and these big brands are taking over everything

30 minute trip to the bike shop. shitheaps of boxes and parts everywhere, not necessarily a problem, but I spot a stack of pedal boxes behind the counter and wave down the fat, grumpy proprietor if they have (slightly less common brand that I didn't see back there)

>no, we really don't carry that kind of thing here

ok no biggie I was on the fence about that one anyway, how about the (literally the most popular shimano pedal on the market), do you know how much that would co-"

>cuts me off and says "it's hard to know these days with so many parts being out of stock, you'll have to call us tomorrow and we can see what we can order from the warehouse"

despite the stacks of boxes labeled "shimano pedals" in plain sight. so I went home (30 minutes) and ordered it on amazon, remind me what's in it for me when they say I should support "small business" other than emotional blackmail and gaslighting?
>>
How can I determine fork size/length?

I recently got a garage find 2000s hardtail with a 3x drivetrain that I'm thinking of turning into a 1x gravel grinder/all-rounder. The fork is heavy as fuck and doesn't have a lockout feature so I think it's gotta go, just not sure what I need to get measurements on in order to replace it.
>>
>>2024599
>remind me what's in it for me when they say I should support "small business" other than emotional blackmail and gaslighting?
nothing, the majority of small businesses fucking suck and the majority of small business owners are shitheads. including franchises. fuck em.
>>
>>2024596
what are the part names I should be searching for?
>>2024599
I've found that local shops that focus on new bikes and service/repairs to be quite good.
Used bike stores that focus on older bikes restored have been extremely over priced. They've been scalping the market of decent cheap bikes and selling for way too much. At the price point they are charging you can get a used modern bike (just have to deal with the hassle of coordinating through craigslist and shit).
I've never had anyone at a bike store of any kind give me bad advice or trying to push me towards buying something though. That has been pleasant.
>>
>>2024592
that sounds rad as fuck, you nerd. shut up.
>>
>>2024596
fuck off cunt. both approaches can make sense
>>
>>2024604
nothing wrong with nexus + dynamo hub but you're effectively suggesting he does a full custom build on a department store piece of shit for well beyond the new price of the bike.
>>
>>2024599
small bike shops choose specific parts to stock. Like often they'll only have one brand of tires.
It doesn't make sense to go in there and ask for something else specific that you've researched online, and also, people who do that usually won't tolerate the markup.

You should have been like 'what pedals do you have'

If the guy was just generally being a dick, which they often are, then sure, fuck him, but your approach was wrong and he's probably dealt with similar approaches hundreds of times and knows by now that it doesn't go well.
>>
>>2024600
axle to crown, or, same wheel size and suspension corrected for the amount of travel will give roughly the same thing.
>>
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>>2024608
>"noooo! your approach was wrong!" cried the bankrupt former small business owner as he watched the inventory liquidators come in to put all of his former shop's shit on ebay for pennies on the dollar
>>
>>2024602
>(just have to deal with the hassle of coordinating through craigslist and shit).
It's more about whether you're able to gauge the condition of a used bike, and, whether the shop selling refurbed cares about that either.

Sure you can buy a used nice road bike but half of them have worn out brake tracks, thrashed bearings, stretched drivetrain, dog cables and cracked tires. It can still make sense if you're able to overhaul it yourself but the shop offering, hopefully, isn't a project, it's just something you can buy and use.

Also yes, the prices are really gouged but that's an economic reality of them being a business. Their overheads have to come from somewhere and most people are not prepared to learn anything or get their hands dirty. Buying used is then a gamble and a lot of people get ripped off worse on used bikes which are totally fucked.
>>
>>2024610
remember anon, there's no such thing as complaining, only asking for solutions.

Doing that and then being deaf to them is like flailing around and hitting yourself.
>>
>>2024602
Really the smart way to buy used bikes for a casual is not from a shop that refurbs them, but a community nonprofit or generous hobby autist that refurbs them
>>
>>2024612
I have a solution, which I described in my original post. it's just not a solution that fits your narrative of the oppressed small business owner
>>
>>2024614
mate i hate bike shop owners /mechs with a chip on their shoulder. If they can't deal with the bullshit then they should just not do it, and a lot of it they bring on themselves.

Your behaviour didn't make sense though, consider that is possible, or just keep seething
>>
>>2024615
I work in customer service. it's not retail customer service, it's business to business, but it's the same shit just different stuff if someone makes a request that would be impossible to fulfill if taken literally, I try to make some inferences about what they really want, I might ask some questions, and then I'll make a recommendation that acknowledges what they're really looking for while explaining how it solves their problem in a different, albeit unexpected way. this is pretty basic stuff

there is a personality type that intentionally takes things literally so they can have an excuse to deliver a useless solution while laughing at the stupid customers, and this type of personality is good for rote grunt work in a back office somewhere, following a strictly outlined set of procedures, and not much more than that because they will go out of their way to sabotage projects to show everyone how smart they are. definitely not good for talking to customers and certainly not trying to run a business while pretending to be a pillar of american freedom or whatever

sucking on these people's cocks like they're a foundational part of freedom and the american way is why we can't have nice things
>>
>>2024616
You'll notice from the very start that i have been critical of bike shop behavior. Don't pretend otherwise.
Just because they should have been able to deal with you better doesn't mean that you couldn't have dealt with them better.
>>
>>2024616
It's not just a better way to deal with small bike shops it's a better way to deal with the world

"To meet, not predict the future"

If you had just asked what they had then you might have gotten better options that you weren't aware of, or been offered something cheaper, like-new, or takeoff parts.

Internet research is glorious but a lot of people play way too hard into it.
>>
>>2024617
it is not the role of the customer to internalize the emotional state of the aggrieved little bike shop owner and come in with a carefully prepared opening line that panders to his sensitivities about inventory, customer expectations, and the pricing model. you can kind of get away with that kind of autism when you have something totally unique that everyone wants, like a soup nazi scenario, but that doesn't seem to be the case here.
>>
>>2024619
It's not, but if you want to discuss it then we're discussing it.
>>
>>2024618
I did ask what they had, and they said they "didn't have anything like that". so I went with "just allow me to give you money for product at the price you consider fair" and he wasn't having it because, as you say, I didn't word it in a way that pandered to his sensitivities

it's not like I went to the shop to have a 4chan argument about unracers, if you're too sensitive about what if the customer doesn't like the price I better reject him first!!! then you are beyond saving because you've completely misunderstood your role in society
>>
holy shit can you guys shut up?
>>
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Is there a name for this kind of handlebar, and does anyone make these nowadays?
I specifically mean bars without a horizontal part at the bottom, and with hand brakes.
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>>2024623
Those are track drops with the bars angled up slightly. You can still get ultra-deep track drops if you really want them (Nitto B123), just know that if you're going to use them that way you'll also need to find a very short stem to account for the forward extension of the bars.
>>
>>2024608
remember to always support your local megacorp for bike parts. Bike shops are for boomers who get ripped off buying a bike they'll never even ride
>>
>>2024446
Why not 32, or is that a hassle for tubeless?
>>
How's the experience of sourcing parts for old high end bike parts like older dura ace and ultegra components?
Ebay makes me think it isn't so bad but are the quality they in usually reliable?
>>
>>2024590
>That's not true. I have a bike setup like that and the chain retention is fine as long as you're not popping off curbs
I guess. If you say so, I'll believe you. If you ride slowly. Never popping curbs doesn't seem like a reasonable requirement for normal urban riding, though.

My experience with this is that I had worn narrow-wide that dropped the chain at every bump if I didn't slow down and creep over them. A new fresh narrow-wide chainring solved that issue.
>>
>>2024446
I would be happy if I could get 7k miles out of a pair of tires
>>
>>2024656
you're not going to drop a chain when you're pedalling, it's only when you're coasting. It's not about riding fast or not. Also most people never pop curbs.

I wouldn't want it if i only had one bike, but i have dozens of bikes, and it can work pretty well on a cruiser.

Remember also that cheap chinese chainrings are typically much lower quality than nice road chainrings, for one, they don't last nearly as long. I buy those cheap chinese 1x rings myself, they have their place, but i'm not delusional about them being good.

>>2024634
It usually makes more sense to get them from buying/stripping complete bikes. You want to obsessively peruse marketplace / auction sites and be able to part out the value of a bike by glancing at it. Often one component will pay for the entire purchase. But then it becomes a rabbithole of hoarding. As for wearing out, shifters wear out, i would be very cautious about paying much money for old shifters (except dt). Derailers typically don't. Cheaper derailers will develop slop but higher end ones are usually fine unless they're super high mileage and you can usually tell by the state of the jockey wheels and generally how rough they are. Brake levers, calipers, cranks, don't really wear out. Chainrings etc obviously do. I wouldn't want to pay much for almost anything old really.
>>
>>2024659
>you're not going to drop a chain when you're pedalling
Now I know you're full of shit.

>for one, they don't last nearly as long
True, but completely irrelevant to the issue in question.
>>
>>2024659
>Also most people never pop curbs.
I have to pop a curb every time I leave or enter my driveway, for one.
>>
>>2024665
fuck off dude i've had enough of bickering with you. You're wrong and i'm right. suck shit
>>
>>2024634
Buy complete road bikes. Dura ace bikes in odd sizes can be picked up for 100-300 around here(sub 54 and over 58cm). 600 can be found for 75-200, 105 even cheaper.
Heck same thing with campy. I have had good experience IF I look hard at what I am buying and make sure the cost is cheap enough.
Admittedly I only replace things when I have to.
>>
>>2024608
if the shop requires a specific "approach" in order to get decent service you shouldn't give them your patronage. they can go above and beyond or i'm ordering from a webshop, they no longer have any kind of monopoly.
>>
is a derailleur extender a bad idea compared to replacing the derailleur? it currently has a 34t capacity but i want to try 11-40t.
>>
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i have an alumium frame & seatpost with a 35 - 27,2 mm adapter sleeve. i have grease between the frame and adapter and installation paste between the adapter and post, and the seatpost coller at 5 nm. the seatpost and adapter rotate when i yank hard on the saddle, is it bad or ok?
>>
>>2024681
If the saddle stays in place when you ride the bike it's probably fine. Otherwise it's bad.
>>
>>2024681
i'd tighten it to 6, you don't want it to easily move side to side.
>>
I replaced a chain for the first time today, and the new chain came covered in oil. Is this good to ride with, or is it just a preservative that I should remove and replace with lube? The brand is BBB, and the manual didn't mention it either way.
>>
>>2024694
babby's first bike says:
>factory lube is the best kind of lube, you should use it as long as possible
experienced freds say:
>you should immediately strip it and boil your chain in a paraffin ultrasound bath
enlightened freds say:
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/chainclean.html
>>
>>2024659
>you’re not going to drop a chain while pedaling
So you’re retarded and have never ridden a bike, got it
>>
>>2024718
on a cruiser
not shifting
on a not worn out drivetrain

in context
on -that- bike and other setup like that

it doesn't drop chains when you're pedalling, only when coasting, or rather, the chain doesn't randomly come off due to having no chain retention in the front.
>>
>>2024694
Ride it for a bit, then lube as needed.
>>2024679
That's kinda a reach but if the extender says it can give you that much go for it.
I put a wolf tooth road link on a gx rear derailleur and got to a 11-42.
Depends on the cost, if you can find a rear derailleur that fits the bike and works with the shifter that might be a smarter play since the roadlinks are like 25-30 bucks anyways.
>>
>>2024694
I don't feel like there's anything wrong with factory lube. one good thing is you know for sure the internal parts are smothered in it. but then, so is the exterior, which you don't want because that attracts dirt and it sticks and wears it out more. but just like when you lube a chain yourself, you wipe it off the exterior and you're good to go.
some lubes are better than others (for some values of "better") but as long as you've got something slippery on there, any other gains are marginal, to my mind. I feel like it's a waste of time to strip it clean and then put some slightly different slippery thing right back on it.
and yes, I have done this and continue to do so and it's never done me wrong. but some fred wants to strip it put wax filled with Teflon powder on it immediately that's his business.
>>
>>2024694
yeah i like the factory lube
seems to usually run quietly and that's how you know your chain is lubed
>>
Maybe a dumb question, but could I run MTB shifters and derailleur with a gravel cassette?

I don't like drop bars.
>>
Looking at getting the brooks plump leather grips. Anyone know if the leather end cap can be removed so other bar end caps to be used?
>>
>>2024859
GA-AAAAAAAAAAAAAAYYYYYYYYY
>>
>>2024853
... what is a 'gravel cassette'? Aside from compatibility issues what exactly about it makes you want one?

Your answer is about compatibility and it's so vague as to be meaningless. The short answer though is yes, infact, many 'gravel' groupsets don't have their own inseries cassette and spec mtb cassettes, ie, GRX often uses XT cassettes.
>>
>>2024859
yes, it can, honestly though, brooks grips are awful. The lockon style collars ruin the style and they're too narrow

It's bewildering that anyone buys them. I have some like-new that i would give away rather than use.

If you want classic style i suggest you look instead at wrapping cotton bartape, with shellack, or simply some other classy bartape, over other bartape or inner tubes or old grips, million different options, and finish with twine.
>>
>>2024863
I guess what I'm saying is I don't need the giant range that some MTB cassettes offer, but I do want some range for a 1x drivetrain. I also don't want to run a 2x
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>>2024853
Yes? I have 105 shifters and GRX RD with MTB cassette.
>>
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>48/38/28 custom
Is this a good deal at $30?
>>
>>2024872
No. Those chainrings are riveted on so they can't be replaced when worn out. Since that crankset is already worn it's worth $0.
>>
>>2024864
> I have some like-new that i would give away rather than use.
Can I have them?
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>>2024862
Yes, a pleb could buy a Walmart bike for the cost of my grips. I don't care
>>
>>2024882
yes if you walk past my garage and ask nicely
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>>2024859
That doesn't look comfy
>>
I bought a cheap gravel bike bros it's so comfy and fast. In a few years, I'll probably upgrade to a steel frame with nicer components or maybe a nice endurance bike
>>
All-City is big gay
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>>2024894
Meh, it's like an Estwing
Looks fancy though
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>>2024943
sir this is a bike company that prides themselves on quirky steel bikes.
If I was them I would do the same and get government bene's for it.
>>
>>2024950
>I would do the same
you have the big gay too
>>
>>2024943
who gives a shit, you baby.
>>
>>2024958
I do. When a company starts hiring people who are schizophrenic or otherwise fucking insane, I give a shit about no longer supporting them.
>>
>>2024962
>on 4chan
>not insane or schizo
ummmm do I have to tell you?
>>
>>2024962
stop worrying to much about this culture war bullshit.
>>
>>2024870
>105 shifters
no
>>
>>2024965
No
I will do as I please
And not give any more money to gay shit
Quit homosexualizing bicycle parts and I won't need to say anything
I shouldn't need to say anything, but I do
All because of faggots
>>
I shone a flashlight down my seat tube for the first time and saw it was pretty badly rusted, not unlike picrel.
There are some specks and tiny patches of rust on the outside too. The frame is from the early 70's so it makes sense.
Is it a nothingburger, should I do extra maintenance, or is it going to blow up in 2 days?
>>
>>2024978
*not unlike picrel
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>>2024977
lol ok, have fun
>>
>>2024977
They’re pieces of metal, dumbass. If you cant enjoy pieces of metal because some other dumbass happens to exist then you’re the real faggot
>>
>>2024978
Generally it’s nothing, inner seat tubes are often uncoated (or the coating gets scraped off quickly through use) and chromoly metal has great internal rust resistance, if nothing else is rusty then there’s no issue with rusty inner seattube, just make sure it’s greased because an aluminum seatpost will become STUCK in steel seattubes if you let it
>>
>>2024987
>chromoly metal has great internal rust resistance
the issue is..
>Test ride the Schwinn Super Sport with hand-brazed chrome molybdenum alloy steel lightweight frame
https://bikehistory.org/catalogs/1973.html
From what i've read, some molybdenum alloys have chromium, and some don't
Could rust be an issue in the case that it doesn't?
>>
>>2024943
BOYCOTT!
>>
>>2024978
It won't blow up in 2 days.
A couple options.
1 is do a cleaning with either a coat hanger+steel wool, brake hone on a drill+extension, or some other internal cleaning via abrasives.
Another option is get an internal rust converter.

I used some since I had a bike that lived a hard life and had some free converter. It came in an aerosol with a hose that sprays it in a pattern so you spray it and pull out the hose.

You could also just oil it+grease the seatpost and hope it will be fine. I live in a low humidity/low rust area so I don't have to contend with rust much.
>>
>>2024986
not buying a bike from a specific brand does not mean I can't enjoy bicycles. I already own bikes.
>>2024990
All bicycles not made from hi-tensile steel will be made from chromoly steel, usually 4130. I've never ever heard of anyone making a bike with a molybdenum steel without chromium. Regardless of rust resistance, the bike is 50 years old, it probably has some internal rust by now. Most people store their bikes in places that are exposed to humidity, like garages and sheds. Get some T9 frame saver rust spray.
>>
>>2024996
If you do any internal cleaning with the steel wool drill method make sure to do it with the bike upside down so you don't drop steel shavings down into your bottom bracket
>>
>>2024978
most steel frames have some degree of internal rust and they rarely rust out

also the value of most steel frames is very low / zero unless it was very expensive when new.
Those high spec frames are also the ones with thinner wall tubing so it's only worth worrying about if that's what you have, which it probably isn't.

The place they rust out is not in the main triangle, it's the chainstays, especially if there's a chainstay protector that's trapping moisture there, so if you're gonna treat it, treat there.
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>>2025006
>rarely
*very rarely
>>
>>2024997
Technically there are a fair amount of manganese steel alloy bikes.
Yes, I am that guy.
>>2025003
Of course.
>>
>>2025009
Why do you want a Steel bike? Are you some kind of Cyclist that goes down Mountains? I'm not into that. Mine is made for the street, I love it. Maybe you ride in the city too, just wondering why you like steel and how you feel about it.

Write back
>>
>>2025013
Not that anon, but sentimental factors
Me dad gave me that frame when I was a teen.
I'll take the 2 pound penalty or however much it is, it's not like it matters much where I live, I can go 50 miles and only climb 100 feet
>>
>>2025013
On my steel roadies I do it all. Climbing, flats, commuting. It's a beautiful frame material with rich history and made by people of europe, japan, or america(the ones I buy).
Easy to paint, easy for me to repair(although carbon isn't too bad either).

Easy and cheap projects to mess with, ride, and enjoy. Maybe in 30 years I will be buying cheap carbon bikes and messing with them too.
>>
>>2025013
Steel rides good
It's not so light that it feels like a toy
Easy to repair and repaint (no razor blade scraping like CF)
Won't crack like aluminum

Most importantly, it has SOVL.
>>
>>2025021
Well obviously if it's sentimental that's different. You will get jealous when you see me sprinting up a staircase with my bike on my Shoulder
>>
>>2025023
You'd enjoy aluminium more doing all of that

>>2025023
I like how it feels like a toy, after all it is my toy :) and those problems only occur when you mess up. My only problem is rust and I'd have the same problem with steel
>>
>>2025025
How tall are you anon? I have a feeling that 5lb's won't be the difference maker.
>spoiler
I look like picrel
>>
>>2025034
Recently saw a russian track bike with bullhorns in that location.
So sick, and so insane.
>>
>>2025034
Shut your mouth, you probably look like a dweeb. And anyway I'm the one with the Cinelli
>>
>>2025021
a Schwinn super sport was "lightweight" cromoly only in comparison to the other schwinns of the day. compared to a nice steel Italian or Japanese bike, yours is a tank. it's best practice to spray frame saver or Sta-bil or something down there because why not, but despite the FUD banter from the carbon enthusiasts, a steel frame doesn't usually rust through. and if it did, it doesn't explode like carbon. it's not a death sentence if your steel bike fails while riding.
I've also heard of people pouring boiled linseed oil down the tubes and then draining it, but you need to take the bottom bracket and headset out to do that.
>>
>>2025049
>avoided the question
kek
>>
My legs feel very heavy and pedel badly when I sit on my bike but if I stand up while riding I can both pedel better and it feels less on my legs
What is wrong?
>>
>>2025075
Seat is too low. A basic test is if your leg is almost straight at the bottom with the heel of your shoe on it. Then, ride with the ball of your foot or midfoot. It can be a little lower then that, but very low seats are quad+knee killers.
>>
>>2025080
Could also be too far forward
>>
>>2024918
changing frames doesn't even do that much
>>
>>2024859
hipster
>>
>>2024859
A bicycle is never supposed to be lavish, just doesn't work, and looks weird and silly
>>
>>2024872
>>2024874
Why are they rivited!? Hahahah on my god
>>
>>2025080
When I raise my seat post I have harder time to get on the bike, feels less pressure on legs however I have noticed I can't put out as much power
>>
>>2025117
Keep the seat down. Use lower hears for a bit, also practice with Hills, your Legs are the problem, you need to adjust
>>
>>2025117
That's normal it's a little harder to get on the bike, and yeah it will take time to adjust.
Just learn about your current position and see what you can do to improve it. Some people lean the bike over to get their foot on, others put their leg over the front of the handlebars which works for road bikes.
>>
>>2025117
this is one of those things that is no longer debated. pic is from the Schwinn 1973 catalog, and Schwinn was a normie brand.
your body just isn't used to it. try doing the adjustment like pic, see how it feels, then lower the saddle and maybe raise the bars a little if you can until it feels only somewhat awkward and assimilate to that. then after you acclimate, revisit the proper adjustment.
when riding this way and you come to a stop, you need to either dismount, or stay seated with one foot on the pedal and lean over to put the other foot on the ground.
another way is to pull up to a street sign or tree and remain seated and just grab onto it
>>
>>2025133
>Rider MUST be able to straddle bicycle when standing
>>
Let's say you want a jack-of-all-trades/master-of-none bike, which will be used for equal parts city roads, country roads, and off-road, all seasons.
Would you put 35, 40, or 45 millimetre tyres on it?
I'm not asking for recommendations, I just want to know your preferences and rationale.
>>
>>2025167
35 panaracer gravelkings ss or similar no tread if you plan on doing almost no offroading, with decent roads.
40's or 45's if you do say, 15% off road or the roads are worse. 45's with some off road tread on the front if you occasionally deal with mud or wet dirt.
Full knobbies front and rear biggest size you can get if your ride every day is off road+muddy half the year.

Over here it's road only so small thin tires 700c on a road bike are my jam. For mtb I like larger volume but faster tires like a conti race king 2.0 or 2.2(50-57mm). When it rains I want more tread, and when I hit DH/big stuff I want as much as I can get.
>>
>>2025167
I have an old bike and a full fender kit on and the biggest I can fit are 32mm. slicks. I take it on hardpack dirt, turf, and gravel pretty frequently. when I'm on the gravel trails and I'm in my highest gears where it's straight and flat, I notice it rattling enough to prevent me from kicking in the highest gear, which is 50/14.
other than that, my 32s handle everything I can throw at them.
and I'm mainly on roads, so even if I could fit wider, I don't think I'd bother.
then again, the rim width and specific tire models can vary the true width quite a bit. my other bike has Conti gp5ks in "28" but the calipers say 26.4 when I measured.
>>
>>2025167
I mean honestly if it's spending a full third of its time offroad I'd probably go for like 2.2 (~53mm?) fast xc tires.
>>
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>>2025167
Most of the time when people say 'offroad' they mean stuff you could ride on a road bike with 25mm tires.

I'd go ~33mm. Rather have fun /sketchy ride sometimes than drag around bloat on road. Even for loaded touring i'd go 35s if it's mostly road.

If it's truly rough stuff then ~50mm gravel or ~2.2" XC.
>>
I have an 8 speed short cage campy RD and I want to bump it up to 10 speed while keeping the gearing (28t max) the same with friction shifters. Will it work?
>>
>>2025167
probably 44 mm since its a good blend of comfie without being too heavy, and still enough grip to climb loose grades
40 mm is really the worst of both worlds, like it rolls ok but its minimum pressure is high and makes the ride quality bouncy
33 mm is briddy fast and not quite as much a hell scape as 23 mm, I like it for 20 mph speeds
>off-road
if there are stones larger than 1" or 1' deep sand tires 50 mm and wider start to pay off
less problems with the bike becoming unstable or loosing traction
>>
>>2025196
>'offroad' they mean stuff you could ride on a road bike with 25mm tires.
Just because you can doesn't mean you should, or would want to.
>>
Came off my MTB at a relatively low speed like a retard and fell on my side. I was able to ride it home but when moving slowly there was a small friction-y sound once per rotation from the front wheel when moving really slowly accompanied by a minimal slow down and when riding it basically turned into a little chirping noise.

I’m a complete novice when it comes to bikes so I couldn’t identify the problem immediately but when I take a look at it tomorrow what should I look for and what are possible fixes? My initial thoughts are the part of the v brake thing that touches to tire has moved but I couldn’t see if it was or just was really close when taking a quick look at it earlier. I can’t understand why that would be a once a rotation thing though. Another thought was that there’s a small egg in the tire that’s now brushing the brake as it passes but again I couldn’t see an egg on my brief initial look.
>>
>>2025261
If it's a v-brake look at that, and the wheel. v-brakes can have separate springs on the brake arms and that could come loose.
Or your crash caused the front wheel to stress a couple spokes too much and so the wheel is rubbing the fine brake pads.
Or something else.
Take a fine tooth comb over the bike and note anything weird.
I have crashed a ton and had no issues, then done a slow speed basic crash or something mundane and needed parts before...
>>
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Can anyone tell me about Columbus genius off road forks? Never come across these before, always thought genius tubing was primarily for road racers
>>
>>2025267
According to what I have read it's some of the best of the era.
According to what I have read it's a oversized nivacrom tubing optimized for light weight, so for off roading the variant is probably still light weight for it's application, which would be great on the road, gravel, or normal xc(I presume).
My guess is similar to the level of tange prestige off road or some of the nicer true temper frames.
>>
>>2025268
jfc I didn't bother to change the opening on the second sentence.
sigh
>>
>>2025269
appreciate the info anon
>>
>>2025167
Widest tire you can fit without rubbing.
>>
>>2025196
agree. I have a lot of experience with tires that were underbiked. if you have good enough bike handling skills (and low enough gears) you can ride pretty much anything except the truly gnarly mtb paths with anything 23 and above. hardpack dirt or very light gravel on straight smooth trails is easy. but if it's at all challenging, it's still totally doable it just won't be particularly fun. those parts will be super slow and you have to fully concentrate on your line the entire time. wider tires allow you to only kinda focus on your line and you go faster offroad. then wider than 32-35 slows you down on road, and like fat bike width or something slows you down both offroad and on.

that's a great build, btw. is that frame a 65?
>>
>>2025261
what other anon said. only other thing I can think of is those problems could possibly be exaggerated if you don't have the axle seated in the dropout; either because you put it in crooked, or you didn't tighten it enough and it shifted when you fell. even if you don't have a v-brake it could still be some kind of brake fuckery that pushed one pad closer than it used to be and you always had a little wheel wobble but the pads were far enough away that it didn't interfere. or the pad shifted AND your wheel developed a wobble from the fall at the same time.
>>
1x12 or 2x11, given both come at same price and roughly same gear range? Ofc 2x will have smaller steps but maybe that isn’t worth the hassle of a FD.
Intended use is all terrain FWIW.
>>
>>2025286
I'm happy with 1x12 on my MTB and 2x11 on my gravel bike. My MTB stays on trails 90% of the time and I only notice the larger jumps between gears when I'm on road sections between trail segments. But on the gravel bike something like 80% of my riding is on a dirt, gravel, or paved road of some kind where having closely spaced gears is nice.

Also, I have GRX Di2 and use it in full synchro mode, so when I take it on singletrack it's like having a 1x17 and the front derailer trims itself, so if you can swing it that's the way to go since it means you get all the benefits with none of the annoyance of an FD.
>>
>>2025167
27.5 2.0-2.5" gravel or city slicks also rigid fork
It's like 90s rigid meme
But better
>>
>>2025286
Anything above 10 is consoomer bullshit.
>>
>>2025300
You mean 1
>>
>>2025286
2x11, just spec it too the easier gear range side so 46/30 with a 11-32+ cassette.
That way you use the 46 for most of the road riding and the 30 for lots of dirt. Of course dependent on your power level change either the big ring or the small ring.
Like I could see a 40/26, or 42/28,etc.
1x..... is fine I just don't like the extreme chain angles and the gearing is always a compromise in one way or another.
If you don't mind the gaps+chainline issues then it's fine.
>>
I switched out my speedplay road pedals to shimano mtb pedals so I could use some warmer winter cycling shoes and my body is not happy. lower back is sore after only 50 miles, hamstrings feel overworked, and knees hurt. I tried to get the cleat position as close as possible but the outer dimensions of the shoe aren't quite the same. apparently the stack is 6mm more, so I guess my saddle needs to go... up? but I thought sore hammies meant saddle was too high

tl;dr I fucked my bike fit, wat do /n/
>>
>>2025303
The stock option I have is 36/25 10-51. Your and the other guy’s post are convincing enough though, 2x should be the most versatile option, thanks.
>>
>>2025300
lol why 10? why not 9, 8, 7, etc?
>>
>>2025313
only guess I've got is some difference in fore/aft pedal spindle position relative to foot. Agree that all sounds like saddle too high to me. wearing warm tights over your bibs?
>>
>>2025314
36/26* whatever same shit
also god damn man does anyone have an idea of how global post rates on 4chan now compare to those of before the 15 minute timer? may as well delete the site if hiroshimoot or whoever is in charge nowadays is so intent on killing it. though i guess there's a honeypot incentive preventing the plug from being pulled entirely.
>>
>>2025317
I'm also going from about 12 degrees of float to no real float (I mean there's "float" but it's shimano float which is not the same), and, apparently, or so I've been reading, the q factor is different so if I matched the cleat position (which is a big if) then my stance is now 6mm wider

I'm gonna try pushing the cleats out and dropping my seatpost and hopefully tomorrow will be a better day. not that today was bad but it would have been better if my body wasn't bitching at me like I'm old (which I am, but I refuse to accept that)
>>
>>2025316
yeah, dissenting opinion here:
I have 2x6 on one bike and 2x7 on the other. I'd happily change them if they didn't work for me but I shift several gears at a time at least once a minute dealing with all the hills here, plus gearing totally down for all the lights and stop signs. this "dialing in the cadence" thing doesn't apply to my use case. the 6x is a megarange and the 7 goes to 28 or 30 I don't remember but that bike is much more lightweight.
>>
>>2025261
start with checking if the wheel is out of true, just move the brake so you can freely spin the wheel, and check if the rim moves more than 2mm side to side.
>>2025286
i love 1x
>>2025316
claris and sora are unironically the people's groupset, the new versions perform really well.
>>
>>2025322
>>2025323
i'm more so posing the question of whyare 11, 12, and 13 speed consoomer bullshit, but 7, 8, 9 speed aren't? they were once the newest thing.
>>
>>2025325
because nobody here is old enough to remember when those were the newest thing. most of this board grew up with iphones
>>
>>2025325
To be fair, 10 speed introduced a whole new era of incompatibility when it came out. But year, I agree front derailleurs are consumer garbage
>>
>>2025321
I am guessing you loosened the shimano mtb pedal tension adjustment for full loose right?
I get knee pain if my saddle is too low. Too high and I rock+full extend my foot like a ballerina and that feels weird too.
>>2025321
Trying stuff is always the best solution
>>2025322
Yeah I unironically don't mind my 2x5(10 speed) road bike. Each gear is a big enough shift that I don't have to double or triple sometimes.
Not optimal for paceline/road racing/group rides, but pretty nice for solo rider cruising.
1x is probably fine I just don't like large expensive cassettes and expensive chains
>>
Where can I buy bars like the Rene Herse Parallels, but not for $120? This is going on a rat bike.

I just want long and flat drops that don't come back much further than the tops

https://www.renehersecycles.com/shop/components/handlebars/maes-parallel-318-handlebars/
>>
>>2025325
10 is the upper limit on somewhat reasonable axle spacing, and it's right at the threshold of having to use thinner, weaker chains.
Personally I don't want anything above a 9.
11 and up might as well be a belt and cone CVT
>>
>>2025344
lol ok
>>
>>2025345
Go ahead and laugh, but infinite ratio drivetrains are the future. Now that they are rolling out electronic shifting it's only a matter of time. Even 12 speed fans will be retrogrouches in the future
>>
>>2025325
I mean, if it's useful to you, use whatever you want but I think the industry is just pushing "more=better" to sell more new wheels and $200 hydraulic brifters.
if you go on long rides not in the city and the only elevation changes are super gradual over long distances, then micromanaging your cadence is probably useful, but I just can't use that shit
>>
when I have a high cadence I start to like bounce in my seat, is that a core muscle problem or something? I dont knwo what im doing wrong but i can't control it
>>
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>>2025167
My favourite anywhere/anything bike is an old mountain bike that was converted to 700c, I can comfortably fit 35mm tyres, wider if I didn't have fenders, and that is absolutely fine for all the riding I do. On road, gravel whatever the fuck that is, farm trails, fire roads, forest tracks etc are all fine with 35mm.
>>
>have bike that goes anywhere
>have nowhere to go
>>
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>>2025337
Sakae road champions?
>>
>>2025371
It's a mixture of muscle control, practice, and training.
I have always heard it's best to practice going high cadence for short bursts, and extend that over time.
It's normal to bounce if you are untrained/suck at it.
I have heard fixed gear going down a hill is another good way to train it since.... you kind of have to spin up at that point.
>>2025379
Just go
>>
>>2025379
>go everywhere
>>
>>2025371
get oval chainrings
>>
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my bike doesn't have rack mounts, anyone has experience with seatpost racks like pic rel? I'm planning a tour and want it for panniers
>>
>>2025397
if your bike is anything better than a bso it's putting a load on the weakest part of the seatstay

actually that's true if it's a bso too but at least it won't be thinner just mechanically weaker
>>
>>2025379
you have everywhere to go, just ride in any direction and explore your surroundings
>>2025397
as long as you're not loading it with bricks it should be fine
>>
>>2025371
practice. One-legged pedalling drills help some guys with this, though you pretty much have to be indoors to do them safely.

>>2025378
I like that quite a bit

>>2025346
The wattage loss tho
>>
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>>2025397
How long is your tour? Id feel very shifty trusting something like that on a bike not designed to bear weight in the first place ... Those kinds of racks are for shitty gas pipe bikes not fancy road bikes.

Someone more knowledgeable correct me but putting weight on the middle of your seat stays like that seems a recipe for disaster, especially if your bike is like a Uber fast road bike.

Might legitimately be a case for a bike packing setup, what is your bike anon?
>>
>>2025337
Nitto Noodle
Can get for like $40-60
>>
>>2025410
I have MTB, it will be few months long tour across the europe. I'm also doing few days trips every now and then and I should be fine packing into the setup I usually have but I'm just looking at diffferent options
>>
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>>2025397
just get these
>>
>>2025412
Ah a mountain bike is likely strong enough to withstand that strange mounting system. Id post a picture of your bike to be sure, likely other anons can chime in Incase maybe your specific bike wouldn't hold it well.

There's a reason most racks mount down by the axles with a screw
>>
>>2025397
yes, I do.
I was doing all my shopping in a set of panniers for several years with one that was rated for 50 pounds, and I know I regularly overloaded it. worked fine but I don't think they make my brand anymore, the logo has worn off but it says made in USA. it said it was for mtb (I guess you can't use a regular rack with rear suspension?) but I put it on my roadie with the spacer.
>>
>>2025413
not him but that's cool
>>
>>2025424
this was a 1989 MUSA aluminum bike that is in my opinion pretty overbuilt, a trek 1400. pretty sure I was running a steel seatpost, too. so maybe it would be a problem with a different roadie but I'd say you'd be fine with an mtb.
I was only doing a few miles at a time with it overloaded, though, but my gut says you'll be fine as long as the rack is well made and you're not much over the stated load limit
>>
i have titanium bolts on my baiku can i hit them with a butane torch to make the change color
>>
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I want to switch from 2x8 to 1x11 on a Kona Dew.
My main concern is fitting a CUES 40T crankset in the front. Don't want the smaller 30T/32T ones because they don't have a chainguard and there don't seem to be any aftermarket ones for them.
How can I check if it will fit? Right now the crankset is a 36/22 Shimano FC-M315-2.
Other Dew models with the same frame use a 1x11 setup with a 38t crank.
Basically, I want a good new groupset with a chainguard crankset for city riding, so maybe I'm too hung up on CUES/hollowtech.
>>
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>>2025446
you could use this as a rough guide
>>
>>2025321
>>2025313
saddle up by 5mm and cleats out by 3mm fixed it up real nice
>>
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>>2025447
Thanks. Just checked, and the extra 16mm should clear fine, considering the current crankset's chainline is 48.8mm and the one I want has 50mm.
>>
>>2025397
it's flexy crap.

old man mountain sell axle mount kits or just use bikepacking bags
>>
>>2025446
If your drivetrain is not worn out, what a huge fucking waste of money lol

Are you doing this because it's not tuned well and the shifting sucks? Maybe just pay someone to set that up instead.
>>
>>2025463
Got another bike, but I don't really like the 28" wheels and front suspension, so I was looking for something smaller and lighter.
The Kona Dew frameset is the only one which felt right, so I bought it used for tinkering. Would have had to change some parts even if I bought one new, so might as well do the whole shebang and learn something along the way.
>>
>>2025467
what exactly do you even have now, just a frameset? really unhelpful again to just post a stock picture
>>
>>2025469
Right now it's a full bike with semi-faulty entry-level components.
I want to replace everything except the wheels.
I love DIY and I want to do this as a hobby project.
>>
>>2025470
>semi-faulty
how so?
just set them up properly, usually theres nothing wrong with shifters or mechs and it's just cables, cleaning, and setup. If the chain/cassette/rings are worn out, ok, maybe, but it's rare on a cheap bike for that to even be true.

cues is also entry level stuff and you'd still have to set it up. You'd just be throwing money away for no reason buying new different cheap components.
>>
>>2025470
DIY isn't about buyfagging stuff online it's about cleaning stuff.

Also you're gonna have a budget right? Throw as much money at this as you can / want to, there are just better places to throw the money than on a different drivetrain
>>
>>2025471
>>2025473
I want to see for myself if a 27.5" 1x10 bike is a better fit. That's why I bought the other bike a few months ago - to see if 28" wheels were a good fit (they weren't).
Also, after trying hydraulic brakes on the other bike, I can't go back to mechanical ones.
Plus the chainguard autism I can't shake.
Budget is around 500€ for the parts. It's not about the money anyway, I barely spend it on anything.
>>
>>2025452
Tons of room for sure.
>>2025451
nice
>>
>>2025475
hydro brakes definately worth it, that's a good upgrade

whatever man its bikes you can do what you want
>>
should i buy the single speed i want before tariffs
>>
>>2025479
You should buy the things you want when you want them, yes
>>
>>2025479
what bike is it?
>>
>>2025427
Yea dude just take them out of the bike first
>>
Are there any 25.4mm clamp drop bars with flare?
>>
>>2025382
Seems janky. A 40 year old handlebar from eBay?

>>2025411
The curve on the Noodle is uncomfortable to me, I've owned that bar. Thanks for the suggestion tho
>>
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>>2025530
Nitto b135
I think they suck ass just like the Noodle bar ymmv
>>
>>2025530
I got you senpai

https://freshtripe.co.uk/nitto-b130aaf-bar/
>>
>>2025507
well that's the trick, there's a few options. what i said was single speed (which allows a tensioner), but what i meant was sliding dropout (for fixed or hub drive)

- there's a track bike that clears 700x45 tires with long reach rim brakes, no derailleur mounting point
- there's a frame/fork pairing i've identified with v-brakes in the back and 12mm/disc up front. sliding, not track dropout
- find an old bike with sliding dropouts and get a new rear wheel. the challenge with this approach is most mountain bikes are 26", most road bikes won't clear a tire >32

part of what i want to do is standardize what parts my bike(s) use to lower the amount of spare parts lying around. in practice this means things like disc hubs with a consistent rotor size and 700x35-50 tubes/tires.
a frame with a derailleur hanger and sliding dropouts can be an open-transmission bike, fixed gear, single speed, or geared hub, and the only meaningful change is what rear wheel you're using
>>
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>>2025522
i did it and its great
>>
>>2025549
>this is going on a rat bike
Then why do you care what "seems janky"? It fucking works.

Have you never bothered to look at older bikes before? Sakae was a good Japanese manufacturer, their stuff is gtg.
Ebay has nothing to do with the quality of used parts, it would be different if it was INEXEOS brand or some bullshit like that.

I can't tell if you're trolling or really that supid.
>>
>>2025551
Well god damn it, I thought my handlebar addiction had run its course. Those look fuckin dope

Has anybody tried these?
https://
freshtripe.co.uk/nitto-b825aa-butterfly-bar/
>>
>>2025561
Kona Unit fits that right? Not sure about the dropouts though.

I want a SS bike, I have a road fixed gear and a track bike and I'd like a nice light SS urban attack type bike. I'm 35 so I'll wait until I'm 40 to get a geared road bike. Maybe a surly lowside although I may as well get a carbon fork since the steel fork counteracts the SS weight saving
>>
>>2025572
awful garish euro trekking spec lol
there are a tonne of parts bin butterfly bars floating around, i have some quite nice italian ones on the shelf that i'd give you
>>
tfw bought a nice road bike to train on but browsing craigslist/marketplace for disposably-priced beaters and half-heartedly shopping nicer domestic manufacturers as well
>>
>>2025575
high of the buy beats high of the ride
>>
>>2025573
dropouts look good but i'm looking more towards an all-road bike: i want a drop bar. rear disc means no flip flop hub, and single speed hub means new wheel if you want to run it fixed.

i have a carbon fork on one bike and i don't like it. the dirt/grime and cables are wearing grooves into the carbon. i don't know how deep the groove can go before there's a problem, but i don't want to find out
>>
>>2025586
I get ya man, good luck getting what you want especially getting it cheap. If you want to compromise with both ends V brakes you get a lot more options + it's lighter
>>
>>2025575
Once you mentally/physically acquire enough you end up buying less....
I love doing that too and have acquired many nice bikes for stupid prices too. Heck, I got the nice frames with bad paint as painting projects too.
>>
are promax rim brake calipers dogshit? is it worth replacing them with a shimano alternative? i've already replaced the pads but if it makes a difference i'll take it
>>
>>2025594
Maybe. If you notice the brake arms flexing when you squeeze them they are shit. if they aren't setup well they will feel like shit.
>>
>>2025594
I don't know but shimano V brakes are pretty cheap I think it's worth it because those little arms on them are all what's stopping you in an emergency
>>
>>2025594
Are they like road brake dual-pivot calipers, or v brakes?

If calipers, yea you could stand to upgrade.
If vbrakes, they're all pretty much the same. You could also upgrade for cheap but the promax I've used have been servicable for road use.
>>
>>2025550
>>2025551
thanks, really difficult finding a place that sells them locally. International shipping is costing as much as the product itself.
>>
>>2024574
The bike's primary use is as a short range, light duty bike. A pannier of groceries is good. Full loaded touring isn't. It's not going to handle too much rough stuff and it's missing the thing that helps keep the chain on. See that black ring on the front chainring?

You can still compensate. Your chain is probably too long, you need to learn how to adjust the drivetrain. And you're never going to be able to plow potholes like a mountain bike, but it's workable.

Proper riding technique!
>>
>>2024587
Not strictly necessary.

>>2024599
That small biz doesn't deserve to exist. Don't sweat it.

>>2024656
Popping curbs is quite doable, but requires proper technique.

>>2024679
RDs are usually cheap as fuck. I'm not seeing the purpouse.
>>
>>2024853
Check pull ratios. Yes.

>>2025167
Depends on the offroad. And depends on how much ice and snow is in the all season. My technique would be to start at fast XC tires and work my way narrower.
>>
>>2025261
brakes slightly shifted and just need to be pushed back. Brake pads out of alighnment. wheel true. bent fork. steering out of alignment. Just spin the wheel when you're not riding.

Brake pads directly touching tire is a quick fix and needs to be done immediately.
>>
>>2025569
Dude's considering rene herse.

>>2025572
Good for slow, german tourer/commuters. MTB diameter so you can slap them on hybrids as well. Can fit enough equipment and baggage on the bars to invade poland. Not that you should, but you could.
>>
When it comes to aluminium vs steel frames for bike touring/‘packing’, why is the online sentiment so notably in favour of steel, when a lot (although admittedly not all) of the traditional European touring bike builders (think koga, santos, idworx, velotraum, whatever else) confidently choose for aluminium? Considering the price category of such brands I doubt material cost is their primary motivation. Could it have something to do with anglosphere dominance in online discourse? Is it an echo of the supposed differences in the packing (adventurous, off-road) vs touring (traditional, on-road) niches? Could it simply be that reddit likes parroting ‘steel is real’, meaningless as such phrases may be? Does it even matter that much in comparison to other manufacturing factors?

Pic unrelated
>>
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>>2025674
>pic unrelated
Well here it is anyway.
>>
>>2025674
currently, more custom bikes are made of steel than aluminum, and everyone wants to think their 520/4130 gaspipe shitter with avid bb5s, gp5reddits, and a brooks is exactly the same as a pegoretti. that's pretty much it.
>>
>>2025577
>>2025592
the struggle is real bros
>>
>>2025594
They have a range that goes from mediocre tektro to literal BSO. Their build quality is somewhat erratic, especialy at the low end. You can feel that in the arms and pivots if you manually pull them. If they aren't noodly or rough, or not holding a pad angle right, I'd just leave them, unless you got some take offs from some fixie builder cheap.

>>2025615
v brakes have so much more leverage vs tire grip that even shitty brakes will hit that limit.
>>
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Are lined cable housings good?
I'm looking for something durable and low-maintenance.
>>
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>>2025674
koga make steel bikes
>>
>>2025674
Weight and cost. I ride steel bikes but if you're 35c and above it's basically all in the tires so aluminum is fine
>>
>bros said it wouldn't feel much different using studded tyres
>bros said it would roll just fine
>bros said it go double sided studs
my legs feel like mush and the rides feel like dragging the bike now rather than riding
>>
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>>2025699
not exclusively
>>
>>2025688
the only time a cable housing has given me any issue was fixing an old, neglected bike. bikes left outside, the houseings rust. or left for decades in a damp basement or something. any bike that I've regularly rode, any shift or brake problems were unrelated to the housings.
so what I'm saying is, but whatever; but the lining is not an issue in my experience, but may be smoother or nice to have
>>
>>2025674
Keep in mind that none of those companies actually make frames. The current mo in the disk brake era is to just throw fuckhuge tires and wheels on, and let that handle all the ride quality issues, and make the fork and frame as uncompliant as possible.
>>
>>2025699
>>2025704
And you can see the difference between "trekking' and "touring" in those two pics.
>>
>50% sale on MTBs

How much inventory are bike brands sitting on right now?
>>
>>2025718
imagine spending $4600 on that jesus christ do mtb people really
>>
>>2025720
>aluminum
>shimano blend
>base-level suspension
That’s a $3,000 bike, max
>>
>>2025720
>>2025722
It's in CAD. CAD 4,649 is USD 3,300.
>>
>>2025674
>traditional European touring bike builders
A lot of what you're thinking of are Trekking bikes, and are intended as essentially fancy city bike / hybrids. 'European' spec is to go absolutely insane with accessories, chain case, dynamo lighting, fenders, kickstand, etc, and these bikes traditionally are very heavy, 15-20 kg.

Aluminium frame is to make them lighter as they are often ridden unloaded and the weight of the already is insisted upon being ridiculous. The same issue exists for e-bikes, e-bikes need to be light because they are fucking heavy.

This is less a consideration for a true touring bike as the weight difference of the frameset compared to your gear loadout is negligible.

I don't think it's even true though that steel frames are de rigour online for bike packing / touring, as most people nowadays buy gravel bikes to tour on, and the people also intending to ride those bikes unloaded tend to buy fairly generic aluminium / carbon ones. Those aren't even not cool.
For actual touring bikes I don't think it's true either that euro mfg eschew steel, i have seen a lot of modern steel ones.

There is also the factor of what trekking in europe actually entails, a lot of it is on a series of interconnected flat smooth bike paths, you can go all through France and Germany like that for example, and so a nicer riding frame is less important.
>>
So this is why GCN is like that
>>
>>2025637
>You can still compensate
To late. I placed a order for a new bike at a locale store. It has wider tiers, suspension and disc brakes. It should be much better in dealing with long rides/hills/potholes/groceries. It's also red, so it should move faster if I believe it will.
>>
>>2025702
well yeah, of course they add resistance. what kind of surfaces are you riding?
>>
>>2025745
tarmac, asphalt and gravel, we have already snow here
>>
>>2025733
mfs are inheriting manors and all i got was a coffee table
>>
>>2025746
right none of that is really offroad dirt/mud, which is what studded tires excel at. so with that in mind i'd get gravel tires. in thick untouched snow studs might be nice but i assume most of your route is already cleared/ridden on.
>>
>>2025674
these brands probably all get frames from china/taiwan. koga was interesting when they actually partnered with miyata for their frames but that hasn't been the case in ages.
>>
>>2025688
Lined cable housing are nicer, and I would recommend them for index shifting use cases, since a slick cable+line housing will keep them nice and free shifting for longer(imo).
Non lined is fine for brakes or friction shifting.
>>2025718
Well still a lot. Most mtbers that came into the sport did so in 2020-2022, and so an overproduction occured after.
Personally I got great component deals on wear items over the last year or so, and now they aren't on sale. So I presume those things are being bought like normal.
However bikes.... most people have bike at home.
>>2025704
>>2025699
jfc that's a lot of shit
>>
>>2025737
You should still learn proper riding technique and not constantly plow potholes.
>>
Where do GRX 400/600 fit into the Shimano groupset hierarchy? And what's actually different about GRX compared to the road groupsets?
>>
>>2025828
400=tiagra
600=105
but you shouldn't give a shit a shit about the "hierarchy", just get what fits your needs.
>>
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>>2025828
GRX has lower gears and a clutch
like 105 is 50/34 GRX is 46-30
its also in 1x which shimano is against for road
>>
>>2025574
Well sheeit, that would be great anon. made_up_email@tutamail.com

I could probably come up with something to trade if you have any interest.
>>
>>2025688
>lined
they're all lined now, if you mean the plastic bit
if you mean the teflon coating, many hate it, mechanics often refer to shimanos 'optislick' as 'optishit' because it gunks up over time.
>>
>>2025875
we're probably not even on the same side of the world anon, international shipping is absolutely insane

i mean if you walked past my garage i'd give it to you.
>>
>>2025879
People are shipping whole frames from France to the US for $70 USD.
Shipping can't be that bad
>>
>>2025886
from NZ it is insane, small package is $100+
Intl shipping to here is usually $50+

though somehow i can get stuff from China for less than $5, how does that even work
>>
Anyone here ride/would recommend a surly ogre
Buying a bike shouldn’t be this hard bros…
>>
>>2025890
Chinese postage is subsidized by our taxpayer money via the Universal Postal Union because China is classified as a "developing" country.
>>
>>2025562
Send a picture, what color did you go for
>>
>>2025920
humiliating
>>
>>2025890
what part of NZ nigga
>>
>>2025919
ogre is the bike i would buy today if i was looking for a new do-it-all bike
> don't own an ogre
>>
>>2025749
I rode before with my stock gravel tires but then I actually slipped since there is ice too and the roads aren't really that well sanded and if they're sanded they add salt to the sand and the sand just melts slowly through the ice and then makes no real difference in the preventing me or other vehicles from gliding



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