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File: IMG_0331.jpg (18 KB, 335x597)
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Alright, quit MONKEYING around

Hey guys I want to put APE hangers on my bike

Resources:
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/
https://www.parktool.com/en-us/blog/repair-help
Neutral Support News on Youtube

RJ THE BIKE GUY IS GOAT

previous thread: >>2054840
>>
My cantilever arms have a little bit of wiggle, I guess the brake mounts are slightly too long. Is there a proper way to fix this?
>>
>>2057040
Never heard of that, I assumed all canti posts were the same length. Your brakes anything special?

I don't see why you couldn't just use a thick washer.
>>
>>2057044
That won't work, the washer will always sit flush at the end of the post and the arm behind it stil has play.
>>
How do you keep up with shifting? I have a like new road bike with Shimano 105 2x10, and it's my first time with something like this. I understand the basics of it all, but I can't ever seem to keep track of the gears in my head, and I'm constantly losing track and running out of gears on the rear and then have to go up or down on the front and then wind up cross chaining. Am I retarded? It seems weird to me that it's only the lowest tier bikes that have gear indicators on the shifters.
>>
>>2057046
>Am I retarded?
You might be.
Anyway, just keep riding. You'll get a feel for it eventually.
>>
>>2057046
you don't need to know what gear you are in. Just remember a certain speed you want to shift onto the big chainring and drop a few gears on the back to keep your cadence and then stay in the big ring unless you can't keep up the cadence that you want. Your drivetrain is noisy if you cross chain too hard but even then its not too much of a deal
>>
>>2057045
When you say play, is the issue that the bolt is fully tightened but the arm still is all jiggly?

If you get a washer with an inner diameter bigger than the canti post you should be good, no?
>>
>>2057046
No one remembers what gear they are in, they just shift up or down until it feels right. If you hear a lot of noise, usually its the chain rubbing the front derailleur. That's your cue to shift to the big/little chainring and shift down/up in the rear.

It's one of those things that you'll just "get" the more you ride.
>>
>>2057045
>116 KB
have you got all the parts?
>>
>>2057090
Yes, looks like I do. Maybe the washers aren't original.

>>2057053
Exactly what I mean. I'm not sure if washers like this exist. I wouldn't know where to get something like that.
>>
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>>2057134

I mean, just measure it (trace the size of the canti post onto paper, or use calipers) and go to the hardware store. Unless yours is really shit they should have a fuck ton of washers odds are one will work.

If that fails, buy one that fits inside the cantilever arm, then drill out the inner diameter to be the right size

Would be wise to clamp the washer down/hold it in a vice
>>
best quick release skewers on aliexpress?
also how would i get a bonded carbon seatpost out of a carbon frame
>>
>>2057163
>best quick release skewers on aliexpress?

doesn't matter, it's a non-loadbearing short piece of steel that anyone can make and thread at home in seconds

>bonded carbon seatpost out of a carbon frame

heat gun I suppose
>>
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Man I was just trying to look up a manual gor my fork wtf
https://rstsuspension.com/why-gambling-is-increasingly-viewed-as-a-positive-form-of-cultural-recreation/
>>
>>2057168
>heat gun I suppose
its carbon inside carbon wtf is that gonna do
carbon doesnt expand(much) and heat will break it
>>
>>2057160
I have a good selection of washers at home. I'll try to drill a pair out.
>>
>>2057196
Good luck homie
>>
>>2057202
Thanks. That did work, but now I realize that the washers now lock the brake arms in place when I tighten the bolt down. Looks like that's not how it's meant to work after all. I can make this work by tightening them just enough so the wiggle is gone and they can still move, and keep the bolts in place with threadlocker. Not great, but it'll do for now.
I do wonder how this is supposed to work for real, though. It's the first time that I've had this issue.
>>
>>2057175
What do they mean by this? Is it a gamble each time you ride with it?
>>
>>2057209
That's what I was thinking, RST isnt very highly regarded
>>
>>2057163
>how would i get a bonded carbon seatpost out of a carbon frame

Brute force? Wrap a towel around the top for better grip and try to rotate it, only with your hands. No tools. If that doesn't work, try creep oil maybe. Let it work its way in for a day and hope for the best. I haven't had this issue before, but that's what I would try.
>>
>>2057208
Cantis are weird man. Sounds like its working tho.

Found this forum post sounds similar to what you’re dealing with
>>
>>2057176
>>2057168
I'd be worried the heat would melt the resin.
I don't know the answer, but I would not put a heat gun to carbon. a hair dryer would probably not damage it, but like anon says both parts are carbon, I don't think heat would do anything. but maybe worth a shot.
>>
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>>2057214
I think you forgot something.
>>
>>2057208
maybe 2 washers against each other to slip against, or like a plastic bushing.
the pivot on my RD where it bolts to the frame had a plastic bushing from the factory which eventually wore out and fell off after taking the RD off for service (the bike is from 89). at first I didn't think it was important and just bolted it back on without the plastic, but it wasn't pivoting and the shifts were skipping and bumpy. so I just used some thick plastic from a bleach bottle and made a new one, everything's fine now and it was probably 6 months to a year ago. I think I made 2 so they'd slide against each other, I don't remember but that sounds like something I'd do.
>>
>>2057218
I can see that working. Although I'd prefer the original solution. However that looked like.
>>
>>2057217
>>2057214
ahhah fugggg'
https://www.bikeforums.net/bicycle-mechanics/892839-center-pull-canti-brakes-get-stuck-when-tightening-brake-arm-brake-boss.html
>>
>>2057231
Good to know that that's not an uncommon issue.
>>
>>2057163
Put the saddle clamp into a bench vice and twist the frame for leverage until it budges. Non zero chance of fracturing or snapping the post though. You might have to rip the entire bike apart and soak the frame and post in a lubricant bath, that penetrating oil doesn’t work for shit on stuck seatposts in my experience, way too much length to penetrate down and too tight. If neither of those work you are pretty much boned and will have to chop the top of the post off, take a hacksaw blade and slowly cut the inside of the tube until you can snap it in half lengthwise and remove.
>>
How do you program bike riding vs leg days?
I like doing uphills/sprints (outside or indoor), but I also want to get into weight lifting.

I know the typical advice is
>take a break from the bike and just lift for a season
or
>stop doing sprints and do recovery rides
but I don't wanna. I wanna squat heavy, and I wanna sprint.
>>
i've ridden 17000km on my road bike and the chain still hasn't stretched to 0.5% wear (using CC-4 park tool to check) literally running the same chain it came with brand new

using drip wax and i never ride in rain/wet conditions. using di2 full automatic mode too so it doesn't crosschain, i also weigh like 56kg.
>>
>>2057258
pedaling around like a fucking pussy huh
>>
>>2057266
this. sometimes a single cx weekend would kill my chain.
>>
Bum soreness, when does it stop? It's still sore even if I don't let my bear daddy double fist my bumbum.
>new to cycling
>been lifting for a decade
>either I don't get DOMS anymore or I have become one with DOMS
>doing 3 days on the saddle then 1 day off to do leg day
>30km per day, varying intensity
I immediately recover after a day of rest. 2nd day is when I start to feel it, 3rd day is when I really have to make an effort to put even more weight on my legs otherwise it's just not fun.
>bike fit
Shop did a very basic "fit" if you can call it that, just measured the angle of my legs when fully extended while pedaling and adjusted the saddle height based on the ideal angle.
>>
>>2057303
Forgot to mention the most important thing -- it's only been 2 weeks, so I'm assuming/hoping after a while my bum will just get used to this? I'm wearing cheap padded bibs, I also lift my bum whenever I see any bumps.
>>
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>>2057303
it stops when your core strength, fitness, power, and tempo increase to the point where the saddle, bars, and pedals are just balance points, not pressure points. so for most people, never. For you specifically, your distance and intensity are more in line with light cardio/recovery days. What I would consider a "real ride" generally entails at least 90 minutes pinned at VO2 max with frequent excursions into anaerobic effort.

you can't "just ride." If you want to make systematic progress you have to go about it systematically. otoh it's only been two weeks. Give it time.
>>
>>2057307
>it stops when your core strength, fitness, power, and tempo increase to the point where the saddle, bars, and pedals are just balance points, not pressure points
>otoh it's only been two weeks. Give it time.
Cool, then yes hopefully the more I ride the more I get used to this. I remember reading somewhere on this board saying most of my weight should be on my legs, which right now is just not doable for me for long periods.
>your distance and intensity are more in line with light cardio/recovery days
>you can't "just ride." If you want to make systematic progress you have to go about it systematically.
d1 coasting, average 25km/h
d2 more effort, average 30km/h
d3 interval 35km/h then recover while at 20km/h
d4 rest from cycling, leg day
I don't know about training zones and whatnot, I only have my phone which I rely on to get my average speed. My goal right now is just to keep up with this consistently, with the aim of increasing my average speed.

With all that said, I'm just happy to get out of the house because I work remotely and I have a home gym, so weekdays I never really leave the house. I'm sweating my balls off too when we're deep into fall, I'm not looking forward to summer.
>>
>>2057315
>>
>>2057303
>new to cycling
that's the problem. unfortunately, it could also be an issue with saddle and fit as well, but there's a break -in period for your butt tissue for sure. you're exacerbating it by doing 3 days in a row, too.
bike shorts have padding and would probably help a lot.
>>
>>2057027
How to remove bike chain? It's an old 80s bike without a master link. Do I just fucking use pliers and lever a pin out?
>>
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>>2057328
Nah, you need a special tool for it. It's a nightmare without it. Just buy a bicycle multitool that comes with one. It's nice to have one at home.
>>
>>2057335
Thanks, I guess I'll do it properly
>>
>>2057336
do yourself a favor and get a normal full-sized chainbreaker and master link pliers. you can get a generic kit for like $15. I've never had cause to regret buying a high quality tool though. Pedro's is usually a little bit better than Park tool and often at a bit lower price point.
>>
>>2057251
I dont train ever i just do outsoorsy stuff for fun hehe
>>
>>2057251
>unironically doing the bro split
ngmi
>>
>>2057336
>>2057344
>do yourself a favor and get a normal full-sized chainbreaker
second.
the ones on multi tools are awkward and the one on mine (Topeak brand) broke before long.
>>
>>2057344
who cares honestly? sure the portable chainbreaker on a multitool is kinda shit but how often are you really using that IRL? once a year? once every two years?
>>
>>2057383
once a year gets to the breakpoint and you just go but the good tool
once every two ehh
>>
i have no idea about the technical parts of a bicycle but i need a cheap bike to use around town. should i look for something with suspension, or what sort of brakes, or how many gears, or what is actually necessary for something just to travel a couple miles a day?
>>
>>2057384
Thats really not true. I've had one by SKS for years, used it many times, and it's still fine. I'm all for quality tools, but where it matters.
>>
>>2057391
No suspension needed, brakes don't matter as long as they work, same goes for the gears. Maybe you want a rack to transport some things? Check craigslist or your country's equivalent for anything in your price range. Look for posts that state that it's been serviced and is ready to ride.
>>
>>2057391
>suspension
no
>>
>>2057391
best value is used. you need to find a frame that fits you but otherwise there's a lot of bikes that would work for you. avoid department store brands/Walmart brands. if you're average height that's most bikes but there's bikes for tall and short people, too. it's pretty important but a frame a little small is somewhat workable.
search for size charts and measure your leg taint to bottom of your foot. you can post craigslist listings and we'll tell you if they're shit or not
>>
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What's up with this small hole on my suspension fork crown? not 1 for 1 the fork i have, but it's really close
>>
>>2057428
cable stop for an optional remote lockout
>>
Anyone has experience with Campy Ekar GT? Fairly common on upper mid range Gravel bikes around here and 13x sounds nice.
Pricey cassettes and tools are a downside for sure, but not a dealbreaker
>>
>>2057524
People r 2 broke for that around here
If you’re gullible and close enough to a bike shop, go for it
>>
>>2057524
imagine the chainline...
>>
>>2057524
Are you in Europe or something? Campy makes good stuff from what I hear, but you almost never see it in the US. It's the well-off bike hipster pick. If you're doing gravel, why not just go with whatever XPLR set that you can afford? You can find replacement parts way easier, and also cheaply (in relation) buy RED hoods and have the best bang for your buck higher end setup.
>>
>>2057524
I have a normal ekar and don't know if they changed any of my complaints on the GT aside from the rattle issue that some of the old normal ekar cassettes had. The brakes are great and it's generally speaking a lot of fun to ride because like other campy mech groups the shifting has more feedback than shimano or sram. The big problem I have with it is that the shifting performance just sucks. Sometimes it has the smoothest gear changes ever and on another day it shifts like ass without changing anything not to mention that its an absolute bitch to index this thing. What I noticed is that the thumb shifter always works but the other is like not really indexed and you can change a little more than a gear if you move it too far and the derailleur just stays there and you have to shift with the thumb shifter again to actually get into the gear 100%. You get used to that but that's not something you want to deal with in a race or something. Today I would probably get a Rival XPLR 13speed with that money but back when I bought it it was the best option. I'd definitely test it before purchasing the ekar gt.
>>
>>2057524
>13x sounds nice

does it? I have difficulty imagining the use case. maybe you're one of the one and a half people on the planet that can attack a muddy cyclocross course grinding 9x42 at race pace, then drop two cogs to 11x42, accelerate from 2000 watts to 3000 and win the sprint...
>>
>>2057558
then get the 10x44 or 10x48...
>>
>>2057558
This always comes across as poor people sour grapes. No. You don't need 13 rear gears. But having them is super fucking nice if you can swing it. My beater bike is my old 10 speed. It's more than enough gears most of the time. Having more gears is really nice to have though. Shit, people did more on like 7 speeds or whatever a couple decades ago. People ride fixies just fine too.
>>
>>2057211
>creep oil
not carbon safe either
i tried just twisting it and even turning my bike upside down, standing on the saddle and pulling as hard as i can
its bonded
>>2057249
i just bought the bike for 500 and the saddle is at the right height so i dont want to try stuff that might break it
im gonna try the hacksaw method next year, just hope i can properly cut it cause according to some old catalogs the seatpost isnt pure carbon but a steel tube wrapped in carbon for some reason
super dumb
>>
>>2057562
I'd happily pay the premium for campagnolo stuff if it made sense to. I just don't want a 9t cog, I could trash that in a single weekend.
>>
>>2057524
My experience with it is limited to a short test ride. It felt really nice and I considered buying a GT group since it comes in the 'wide' spacing of any of the frames I might build with this, but decided against since I would have needed to add compatible wheels too (and 2x just makes more sense for the terrain I ride a gravel bike on anyways). What I've heard from people who have time on it is that the shifting is finicky to keep feeling good since there's very little margin for extra friction in the cable path or even a slightly bent hanger.
>>
is there a point to making a bike more lightweight if you're not going uphill ever? i feel like it might be worth it just for the feeling in general but idk
>>
>>2057663
If you're riding a bottom-shelf bike, then just upgrading to something more expensive will bring all around improvements, including but not limited to lightness, and in my view that's "worth it" even for flatland riding though dutch people will have a hissy fit over that assertion

If you're on something mid-shelf (subjective but I'm gonna say $1600-2500 USD for the complete bike, sans accessories like pedals and lights) then there are certainly ways to improve the bike, but they're probably not going to be related to weight per se, though it may be that you end up lightening it as a side effect. Most likely that means the wheelset

If you're on something even better than that, then you would probably not be asking this question because you've already gotten deep enough into the rabbit hole that you have your own opinions on things
>>
>>2057663
Lower weight improves all performance metrics except bike weight hit diminishing returns a long time ago. You're better off dropping weight off your gut than weight off the bike. There's more important things to min-max on a bike than weight now, like ergo, aero, and gear ratio
>>
>>2057673
I like how chatGPT has basically internalized the idea that everyone is fat because the vast majority of the training corpus came from /r/bicycling/ scrapes where the op weighed 325 pounds
>>
>>2057664
it's a +-10kg cannondale optimo, it already has a lighter wheelset. by removing some commuter stuff i don't use that much anyway and changing components i think i can get it to 8-9kg
>>2057673
that's fair but besides making it more aero i feel like a roadbike should be lighter
>>
>>2057663
more weight gives you more forward momentum when coasting and makes cruising around flatland pleasant. but it sounds like you're interested in performance riding in which case iunno. you get better acceleration but seems like it would decelerate easier too. completely annecdotal but me on my heavy ass city bike was behind a pinarello dogma on a downhill and after spinning out my biggest gear I did an aero tuck and I started gaining on the dogma presumably because of weight. ok that was on a downhill but I wonder about my momentum carrying me versus his lighter weight could pull him back when coasting (we seem to have been built about the same in terms of body weight.) I'm sure engineeranon will chime in with a blogpost nobody can understand to tell me I'm wrong but I'm just rambling at this point
>>
>>2057679
you know that thing in mario kart where you go faster when you get in close behind someone?
>>
>>2057681
I wasn't drafting him. he was way ahead of me, but I was gaining on him instead of the full kit aero rider and bike smoking me on a steeie from 1987 with a fucking basket and street clothes
>>
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Is the Look KG 131 worth $190 for the frame alone? Thinking of replacing my classic steel road bike for this since it has clearance for wider tires.
>>
I've got a question about internal cable routing and internal cockpit.
Which way? How should they wrap around the steerer tube?
additionally should the rear derailleur/brake housing go above bb shell or below it?
>>
I tried to replace the rear gear wire. It was all frayed where it enters the frame, looked close to snapping. Now with the new wire, shifting to the big sprocket works fine. But shifting back to the small sprockets doesn't work unless I pull the wire out from the frame, so there's apparently too much friction, maybe in the old wire housing.

At the same time, this wasn't a problem with the old wire. Is that normal, that the shifting stops working with a new wire if the old housing isn't replaced? bike's two years old and the housing's never been changed.

Is it possible to fix this by putting oil or grease on the wire on the part that is covered by housing?
>>
Opinions on those commuter gravelbikes?
Sure are good value and convenient, but how annoying is it to carry around rack and fenders all the time if I also want to use if for sportier rides?
>>
>>2057762
Here's a pic of the wire situation before changing it, I'm not sure if that hole the wire goes through at the bottom of the seat tube could be the cause of the friction
>>
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>>2057764
Here
>>
>>2057763
I have something very similar (Radon Regard 9.0) that I got as my first gravel bike and nowadays still use as a winter bike and bad weather commuter. That exact rack sucks because it's for pannier bags only and I have to take those off to get through the bike gate at workplace. Carrying around the rack and plastic fenders is only really annoying if you care about min-maxxing your performance but then you're on the wrong bike anyway.
>>
>>2057763
That bike looks like a boat anchor with or without the rack and fenders, obviously more so with. But even if you take them off, it's not going to feel like a sportier road bike with a road groupset and higher spec wheels. But do you have prior experience riding a higher spec bike?

If you're not doing a fast paceline ride with a bunch of hard core roadies, and your goal is to have something that's fun for zipping around, I don't think you really need to worry about how much slower it is compared to a "real" road bike, especially if you're coming from a cheaper bike. It looks like a reasonable build if it needs to be commuter-capable, and you're going to have to make some hard compromises if you want something that actually rides like a dedicated road bike.
>>
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Help me guys. I've spent days trying to turn my mtb into a singlespeed.

The chain skips and makes a loud popping sound if I pedal really hard.
You might say that I dont have enough chain grab in the chain tensioner.
I seem to get more chain grab if I lengthen the chain, but the longer the chain is, the more skipping I get.
Pic rel seems to be optimal chain length and tightness (imo), but it doesn't leave much chain grab for the tensioner.

Info:
>32T in the front, 16T in the rear
>9 speed chain, tried with 7/8 speed chain as well, was even worse
>>
>>2057769
>>2057770
Not looking for min-maxxing and haven't ridden anything high spec either. Just looking for a decent do it all allroad bike.
Either something like this or a regular gravelbike (probably Topstone 1) with a quick rack and battery lights.
>>
>>2057771
Have you checked for play in the crank, chainring, cog, etc? I had a problem like that once on a 2x and it was because I hadn't tightened down the preload enough before torquing down the crank arm retention bolt
>>
>>2057773
Yeah, there's no play in them.
In fact, this same setup worked perfectly when I used my old beaten up derailleur instead of the chain tensioner. I did have a 15T chainring instead of the 16T though, not sure if it matters.

I mean I could just put the derailleur back, but the chain is already too short for that and I'd rather utilize this tensioner that I just bought.
>>
>>2057772
I didn't even notice the dyno or the lights. In favor of the cube, it's nice to never have to think about batteries. On the other hand, that looks like one of those god awful stvzo lights that doesn't actually do anything unless you're on a completely dark pedestrian path. Personally I wouldn't consider those kinds of lights adequate for road commuting but I know the germans like being told what to do more than they like being alive
>>
>>2057774
The noise has to be coming from where the chain is interacting with the top of the chainring or the top of the cog though, right? Because that's where all the load is when you're pedaling hard? Assuming there's no egregious alignment issue with the tensioner I fail to see how that could be any different from a guide pulley on a derailleur. So it has to be either an interface issue where the chain is touching/un-touching a tooth, or a chainline issue where something is at the wrong angle?

Is the chain the correct width for the cog?
>>
>>2057776

This is the rear cog, and this is all I know about it:
https://www.bikester.fi/fi/articles/1.3055.216093/takaratas-reverse-single-speed-sprocket-extra-strong-silver

The front cog came with the crankset and is designed for 8/9/10 speed chains so it should be good.
>>
>>2057775
Front light is supposedly half decent with 100lux and only somewhat shitty light spread.
The shoddy rear light will probably get me killed sooner or later, but it is what it is.
>>
>>2057776
Also, chainline is 100% straight. It was the first thing I made sure.
I had a guy create custom spacers for me so I'd get the perfect chainline.
>>
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>>2057777
>>2057779
But what about the chain itself?

https://wabicycles.com/blogs/wabi-cycles-blog/3-32-vs-1-8-drivetrain-for-single-speed-or-fixed-riding-is-one-better
>>
Have a pair of 100% brisker hydromatic but i get cold hands around 0℃ and the palm fabric has started to tear because of use.
Was thinking of getting a pair of Hestra CZone Mistral Split Mitt, considering i already have a 5 finger glove and the 3 finger is supposed to be hotter. I know their ski gloves are pretty good but have no idea if their bike stuff is also good.
What gloves do you use for winter all weather riding and drop bar handlebars?
>>
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Going to 140s from 160s because I don’t use brake anyway
>>
>>2057765
did you also replace the cableguide?
>>
>>2057782
if you're really serious about winter riding you should pick up some pogies/bar mitts. gloves won't keep your hands warm on their own when things get really cold because your grip compresses the insulation.
>>
>>2057782
I'm a shameless catelli fanboi but they keep changing the names of their shit and I can't be bothered to look up the current winter glove, but you should really be looking at cycling apparel brands from italy or switzerland, not generic "glove makers", since the padding and foam density choices for a road cyclist are going to differ from a commuter on a flat bar, for instance

Lobster gloves are a cope for not having a good design with uncompromising materials, they're a way to keep your fingers warm on a lower budget (or for really REALLY cold conditions, but 0 C isn't really that much of a challenge with 5 finger gloves as long as you don't cheap out

The right 5 finger gloves should get you a solid 2 hours of riding at 0 C in the dry, assuming you've got reasonably good circulation, no beetus, you're not super sensitive to cold, blah blah blah, of course we're all special snowflakes but that's my 2 cents
>>
>>2057782
any winter glove from a cycling apparel brand is probably good enough. I use pic related that are only rated for ~8°C but my fingers never really feel cold so I'm fine with them. I also got neoprene gloves for cold rain but those suck ass and I never use them
>>
>>2057793
>>2057782
I live in Finland and ride my bike 365 days of the year (because I don't own a car).
In the winter we can get -30C, sometimes with wind. You might wanna cover your mouth in those temps if you get exhausted and need to take deep breaths or else the cold air will fuck your lungs.
>>
>>2057782
I just use a double layer of thin wool gloves (any will do) and cheap chinkshit outer gloves to keep out the wind. Works just fine, only gets uncomfortable around -10°C.
>>
>>2057046
I never considered e-shifters don't have indicators. that must be hell
anyway it took me a while to realize that changing chainrings = 3 gear shifts in the cassette. so when you change chainrings, simultaneously change 2 gears in the cassette and it will equal to changing one gear in the cassette
>>
>>2057789
no I didn't. didn't even know that cable guide was an individual part. that's one other thing to try to replace then, thanks for mentioning it.
>>
>>2057781
>But what about the chain itself?

The chain packaging says 1/2" x 3/32"
No idea what that means but it should be gud?
>>
>>2057811
okay, an update. I was at the bike store. first guy I talked to was clearly not a mechanic, because he told me the derailleur limit screws had to be re-adjusted after a wire change (that's true enough, but it's certainly not the cause of the issue I was demonstrating to him). I told him I didn't think that was the issue, but he kept his ground, so to say, and explained that there are two different limit screws, and that I could leave my bike at the shop and have the mechanics fix it.

Again told him I didn't think the issue was the limit screws and asked if I could talk to one of the mechanics, who came out and said that they never replace the cable guide, but that it the housing should be changed. A bit awkward with the limit screw guy sitting there. So I got to purchase some new housing. I still don't understand why the housing should be a problem when it worked fine with the previous wire, but hopefully the fix will be that easy.
>>
>>2057763
Alright then, anything majorly wrong with this?
>>
>>2057818
ye ur buying shoes without trying them

and if u gonna go clipless why those pedals?

oh and u could probly buy a 2nd hand carbon gravel for that price
>>
>>2057819
2nd hand marker is very slim pickings around here, already checked and didn't find anything decent my size.
Tried the shoes a while back (probably not the exact model, but similar enough) and they were pretty comfy.
Hybrid pedals are really convenient for a commuter, don't always want to bother with clipless
>>
>>2057819
>literally the best SPDs
>bruh why those
>>
>>2057818
don't buy those pedals, either commit to clipless or don't. nobody is going to make fun of you for putting pinned flats on a commuter barge
>>
>>2057828
flat/clipless hybrid is ideal for commuting or literally any discipline where you start/stop frequently. those pedals are the perfect clipless pedal.
>>
>>2057827
>best spd
that's just a flat pedal for insecure people. just commit to clipless or keep your pedals, who cares
>>
>>2057829
how can you breath normally if you think clipping in/out of MTB pedals is hard?
>>
>>2057829
Sorry but a single-sided frankenpedal is not ideal for anything other than regret. You don't know what you're doing, and that's fine, but you should admit when you're in over your head
>>
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>>2057830
>>2057831
>>2057832
you don't ride
>>
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i bought an ebike off a guy and the rear wheel feels constantly under-inflated. i dont think the tube is that terribly old and it feels firm when i grip it in my fist when im not riding it like the front tire, which doesnt seem to compress as much -- am i just a fatass or are some tubes/tires just built weird or something?

also i have a front wheel kit that reports a motor issue; if/when i take the motor cover off and see if there's no obvious internal damage, where to cop data sheets for these chinked up motors so i know what pin actually goes to what for some ghetto splicing?

>>2057328
nah, you either use a dremel or get one of those dedicated chain breaker things. as usual, bike shit is always made in the dumbest way possible and is impossible to maintain without dedicated tools

>>2057793
https://thedailywtf.com/articles/Classic-WTF-The-Complicators-Gloves
>>
>>2057793
>gloves won't keep your hands warm on their own when things get really cold because your grip compresses the insulation.
get proper "hard" shelled gloves (just leather or smth is fine) and the compressed insulation on the palms is fine because your handlebars themselves will eventually get warm as your body dumps heat into them

>>2057391
suspensions le lose energy but that is what they are designed to do. if your city's roads suck or the curbs are high/they dont have little ramps i would want at least a front suspension. if you intend on having a rear pannier having a rear suspension will make you feel better since the stuff you put in it wont be getting RATTLED quite as much.

rim brakes are fine for city commuting but even crappy wal mart bikes have discs now so it's purely "whatever comes with the bike is fine"

21 speeds are standard and usually cheapest just for market proliferation but in practice you'll generally only use one set of them and even then likely only half the set

unironically if you're just going DUI-MODE and need a bike to commute like 10 blocks just pick up some crappy wal mart bike and learn to wrench on it as things loosen and stuff that wasnt adjusted right at the factory starts to annoy you. the used market is, like with anything else, pretty area-dependent and even then what's available is basically random. if you need a bike NOW but dont need it to be some apex velodrome machine then just pay the 200-400bux for one off a rack at a big box store

if you do just hit up craigslist/fb marketplace/kijiji just ask the guy to give it a quick ride to test fit and things not disintegrating under load. if he refuses, kill him (but do not take the bike, he prevented you from test driving it for a reason). generally even stores will let you take one off the rack to at least sit on it to make sure it's not horrendously out of spec for your size
>>
>>2057817
new update, the issue was not the wire housing. the issue was indeed the cable guide, as some anon proposed. the old wire, being worn thin >>2057765 , had created a new and smaller track in the cable guide, and the new wire was getting stuck in that track. curious problem.
>>
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>>2057844
See here
>>
>>2057845
These things are such a bad design, I wonder why they were used so widely. I really dislike them.
>>
what good and cheap brand bibs to buy, looking for cargo bibs with pockets on the legs

i aint paying $100+ for a bib
>>
will everyone roast me if i use a pair of corpo laptop bags as saddle bags?
>>
>>2057904
Can't really go wrong with Decathlon. Cheap and usually decent quality.
>>
>building myself a new wheel
>mostly true already
>do the trick where you forcefully pull the rim to one side 'round the clock and then repeat on the other side to let the spokes settle
>gets dished to the right when pulled to the right
>gets dished to the left when pulled to the left
the fuck
every wheel i've built before wanted to settle in the middle after that, but this one seems like it has two local minimums and neither of them is in the middle
how is this possible
>>
>>2057904
I've never tried a bib for under $130 that wasn't mediocre at best, life is too short for shit bibs
>>
My fancy new digital pressure gauge refuses to give me a reading below 2.5 psi.
>>
>>2057978
That's not great but it's not terrible
>>
I want something in between an ebike and a motorcycle and NOT a dirt bike.

But I'm not sure n can help.

There's at least a few options, but hard to tell whats actually good.
I want as low price as possible, but it's probably gonna be close to 3k for something good.

https://www.hovsco.com/blogs/news/why-is-the-motor-goat-v3-a-top-choice-for-high-performance-electric-bikes

Just one of several options, slightly over 40mph sounds questionable.
But I just want over 40 mph at the least.
Other suggestions, of maybe something better?
>>
>>2057751
Routing varies depending on the frame, but for the headset what you want to look at is how the lines enter and what routing path will generate the most gentle bends as the fork rotates. Around the BB it really depends on the frame design, but with a mechanical cable I'd expect a cable running through full length housing to go over, and one that's bare or in liners to go under. You should also be able to find a manual for your bike that shows the optimal/intended routing.

>>2057749
That's cheap for any frame. Go for it if it's your size.

>>2057835
Is the wheel secure in the dropouts? Spokes loose? And are you inflating using a gauge or just going by feel?
>>
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>>2057910
That's a cool re-use project. Post pics when complete.

>>2057971
sounds like your spoke tension is far too low or wildly out of balance across the wheel

>>2057978
2.5psi is less pressure than you'd put in a floaty beach ball, never mind a bicycle tire, so that's below the range most consumer gauges are designed to measure with any accuracy.
>>
>>2057763
>but how annoying is it to carry around rack and fenders
this cube has fenders integrated into the rack, but with something less fancy- rack is just four bolts and fenders are never annoying
>>
>>2057749
Looks like it rides like a medieval torture device but I suppose wider tires will let you run lower PSI
>>
>>2058019
Most of N goes below 30 mph, not 40+.

N is cucks of the road.
And o only does motorcycles.
So getting in between is probably not gonna happen on 4chan.
Am I wrong?
>>
>>2058028
I have ridden in snow and terrain on less pressure than that though.
>>
>>2058034
this is on a fatbike?
>>
>>2058019

try luna cycle
>>
>>2058035
Yeah
>>
>>2058037
Thank you. I might have to ask o too, but i don't want motorcycle.
>>
>>2058028
>Post pics when complete.
I'm not posting pics but in the interim I'm using a ViewSonic™ Projector Bag® to hold all the junky electronics for my E-Bike until I can surgically remove it from the weird fanny pack some boomer put it in but without using any non-permanent wiring before I bought it, and some random other bits and bobs. Unfortunately my patented Cargo Retention System (a dollar store light cargo strap threaded through the rear pannier rack thing, literally just a thicc ribbon with a toggle-lock on it, but also i threaded on a SECOND TOGGLE to give a bit more friction and cinch down loose ribbon) covers the ViewSonic™ Parrots©

my thought was to steal a pair of matching ones from work that have metal d-rings for the strap and literally just zap strap them to the pannier rack thingy on the sides instead of putting a bag on top, where I am currently putting the battery (which DOES feature an actual literal patented retention system, it's a metal plate with holes in it and folded a bit to make rails but the battery slides in and literally locks with a key that pops out of a hole in the battery into a hole in the plate(this system was definitely stolen from a server UPS, it is exactly slightly less than 1u and half the width of any standard server device))
>>
>>2058019
wrong thread
>>
I switched to riding the hooks a lot more than the hoods because it let me pull the brakes easier. A few hundred kilometers later I either go hooks (on straights and technical) or tops (on climbs and chill), I barely go hoods anymore. I started doing 25kph average speed rides on roads and I feel like its cus I go on the hooks for much longer so I am more aero
does that mean I should/can lower my handlebars a bit? like I learned to adjust my brakes properly and they are find on the hoods now as well. I just dont feel that fast on the hoods, meanwhile the hooks are getting kinda comfy

like I feel I can be more aero, but raising my saddle would be a disaster for my balls on technical terrain, is the slammed look I see online because of a higher saddle cus they only larp as pr0s but actually eat shit offroad, or do they instead slam their stem cus they arent 50 year old geriatric fucks and can bend?
>>
>>2058092
They are called drops.
>>
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>>2058092
not saying the aero isn't helping but one reason you could be going faster is that you have a pavlovian association between that specific sense of muscle activation from putting the extra load on your posterior chain by the more forward/down position, and pedaling hard. subconsciously you're like "oh, I'm going fast, so let's go fast". almost like a cute girl psyching herself up before a pole vault or something.

the true test is to get a power meter and do the same route at the same power in the drops and on the hoods, and look at the average speed. that tells you if your position is "more aero" to a significant degree. but that also ignores biomechanic efficiency for which you'd need one of those VO2max test setups in a lab. for some people being in the drops just doesn't work as well, they can't breathe as deep or they're spending all their energy holding an awkward posture. so more watts lost to air is worth the tradeoff.

the high saddle position you see in marketing literature is just to make the bike look faster, you're not actually supposed to ride like that. you should set up the saddle position first, in fact one trick to getting a good position is if you can lean forward to where the bars would be, but without actually touching. just hover hand it. if you can sustain that on a gentle climb, that's the right saddle position.
>>
>>2058096
arent drops where ur lower and off the shifters/brakes?
>>2058099
why do you pretend to be smart/knowlageble? so cringe, you basically said nothing
>>
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>>2058100
sorry if that wasn't the answer you were fishing for, how's this:

25kph? damm! have you ever considered going pro? you have to be able to hold position in the drops and not be a 50 year old geriatric fuck, but you passed that test like it was nothing! I can tell already that you could hold your own against the greats if you put some effort into it
>>
>>2058101
kill yourself you pavlovian posterior cute biomechanic faggot
>>
>>2058102
try channelling some of that rage into going faster than granny speed on your next ride, you can probably do it from the hoods
>>
>>2058092
the way I have my fit, my elbows are bent something in the neighborhood of 90° on the hoods and only slightly bent in the hooks and my bars are much lower than my saddle. I still grab the drops and hooks about a third of the time during rides, maybe more, then the hoods the rest of the time. I don't really use the tops.
It took me over a year to get my fit the way it felt best and this is for about 50 miles of riding at a time.
I dunno if it's normal but I'm absolutely certain that it's right for me, at least.
>>
>>2058092
Just lower the bars and put the spacers on top until you figure it out. Imo gravel bikes have way too much stack nowadays especially if youre on the smaller side. Some of them are close to XC mtb stack lmao
>>
Is it a bad idea to go for rim brake carbon wheels? Should I just stick to Aluminum?
>>
>>2058115
if nobody is buying wheels for you, you should not buy carbon wheels for yourself
>>
>>2058115
Everyone is switching to carbon because everyone has discs, so we can put wider tires and stiffer wheels and more aero with no significant weight penalty and it doesn't affect braking, it's basically a no brainer

With rim brakes you're already constrained by tire clearance so you lose out on a lot of that, and the braking is a real problem if you ever encounter moisture, carbon was always a niche thing when rim brakes were the default even though carbon everything else became nearly universal
>>
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>>2058027
>Is the wheel secure in the dropouts?
great question, i havent checked
>Spokes loose?
also great question, i know the alignment is generally poor but the ride has been DIABOLICAL and that the spokes are loose could explain why it feels generally bad/wobbly/mushy. will check when i bother to align it at all
>And are you inflating using a gauge or just going by feel?
i was going by feel prior but picked up a cheap foot pump with a gauge. it reported 80psi but still feels mushy and visibly squashes. its been a while since i biked a lot but i feel like 80 is a fucking lot for what is essentially a shitty big box store mountain bike with a motor on it

also speaking of ebikes, i still have the battery from another kit that didnt work. the battery certainly does. almost zapped myself a few times with it. if i did picrel with wiring it into my current system will i die

my thought is basically
>keep system as is, minor modifications to hobo-proof it notwithstanding (replacing hardlines with detachable fittings, etc)
>72v battery wired to step-down transformer to supply whatever the controller wants once i look up its data sheet
>after step down is a relay or heavy duty transistor to only supply power to controller when i depress throttle lever (again, gonna hit it with a multimeter to see wtf it takes/dumps, but probably 5v)
>72v battery after transformer has ANOTHER transformer all to just dump 5v to some usb ports wherebeit i can wire up some LED lights or something, such that those 5v 99999999a are always available, all the time
>thus, 72 battery only depletes when i am actively on throttle, and is disconnected during just cruise control/pedal assist/etc
>otherwise i have a 5kg package of 18650s electrical taped together by the chinks solely for lights, basket phone charger, running my baomeme radio, etc
thots ?
>>
>>2058119
i did the diagrom wrong and dont wanna fix it, imagine throttle lever also goes to the pwm controller
>>
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>>2058119
>>2058120
you have absolutely no business touching anything electrical or mobile. ever.
>>
>>2058122
why
>>
>>2058123
because you are going to cause injury to someone else through your ignorance and negligence
>>
>>2058119
Based anon burning his house down.
>>
>>2058103
>ur le angry
post bike
>>
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>>2058119
How do retards like this even find /n/?
>>
>>2058119
You will die.
>>
>>2058119
Please kill yourself before you hurt anyone else.
>>
If I'm replacing both the cassette and chain on my bike, does the crankset also need replacing, or is most of the strain on everything else?
>>
>>2058235
can't be certain without pics but chainrings usually last much, much longer.
>>
>>2057771
You have a Cues crank and i think you have to use Shimano linkglide or 11-speed hyperglide chain with that crank.
>>
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anyone here have experience with ass savers win wing? does it work at all or is it 100% looks? i'm lookin for something that will stop mud from getting all over my jacket when going over puddles and i don't really want full fenders cuz they look icky
>>
>>2058235
unless your crank is bottom-of-the-barrel crap with the gears aka "chainrings" riveted to it, you can unbolt and replace the chainrings individually without replacing the entire crank, which is much cheaper.
but like anon says, they last longer than the rear cogs and chain.
compare your chainrings to new(ish) ones if you can to gauge the wear. otherwise, if the teeth are straight and not sharkfin-shaped, and if you can stomp down full power on them without the new chain skipping, you're good. but if the teeth are very narrow compared to new, it's probably best to pre-emptively replace them. post pics
>>
>>2058242
I don't know about that particular brand, but if you don't have full fenders, the water is only blocked from your ass (hence "ass-savers". truth in advertising) but the water still on the tire will hit your leg, feet, and drivetrain as the wheel continues to spin.
so, you get what you pay for.
>>
>>2058242
>i don't really want full fenders cuz they look icky
The fender you posted is way more icky and has very limited protection, you'll still be dirty after a rain ride. Full fenders done right looks classy and elegant. You could at the very least go for clip on half fenders, hell even a seatpost fever will be better than the piece of trash quarter fender you just posted
>>
>>2058245
>seatpost fever
wat
>>
>>2058246
I caught seatpost fever once.
ended up with a full carbon, fully suspended dropper.
>>
>>2058246
I meant fender but i use swipe type and auto correct did an auto wrong
>>2058248
I heard raceism is contagious
>>
>>2058246
symptoms include nausea, vomiting, lightness of breath, delusions, disorientation, fever, and compulsive behavior at swap-meets
>>
>>2058236
>>2058243
It's all good, no worries
>>
>>2058242
got one.
it works perfect for me.
5s to install or remove.
simple as.
>>
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>>2058244
>>2058245
>>2058255
>2 guys who don't own one say it sucks
>guy who owns one says it's good
>>
>>2058257
I didn't say it sucks, I said it didn't have full coverage and you'll still get road spray, just not on your back. if that's an acceptable use case for you then go for it. I used a similar product for years but once I switched to full coverage, I realized that I was retarded.
>>
>>2058257
haven't touched my sks bluemels since getting the win wing 2 + front gravelhugger combo.
15s to install or remove both.
works perfect for me.
simple as.
>>
>>2058255
Do you ride in mud or rain?
>>
>>2058262
yes.
>>
>>2057798
idk why neoprene gloves became such a meme. theyre not good
>>
>>2058119
>in this episode anon fucking dies
>>
If I put a 4ft radio whip on one of the panniers of my bike just to connect to a shitty baofeng, will everyone roast me?
>>
What's a good way to carry a small compound bow on a bike?
>>
Is carrying one of those big blue painter's tarps with the grommets in it and a pile of paracord overkill on a commuter bike?
>>
Why does no one make fun of the spandex-wearers, but when I bike with a tacvest full of tools and candy bars on over my normal clothes, I get fucking roasted?
>>
Would it be improper to use a spare e-bike battery to attempt to drive a hobbyist railgun?
>>
Why is it that even when I'm not even really exercising, when I'm on the path riding along, it's the first time I've felt even slightly alive in years?
>>
>>2058292
As if cycling alone wasn't faggy enough. :D
>>
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Just did a quick search for electric torque wrench and I find stuff that's priced well above 200 euros. Begs the question whether wrenches priced in the 60-90 euro range are actually any good?
>>
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>>2058291
put an orange triangle on top and it'll look like those safety flags from the 70s bike boom
>>
>>2058293
I've been commuting for years and I've never needed such a thing.
are you talking about for when you park it to cover it while you're at work? most of my jobs let me take it in but I never used one if not and my bike never asploded. it's not especially rainy where I live, though.
>>
>>2058294
it's not the clothes, you're just a mark-ass buster.
>>
>>2058295
a rail gun is a better use of electricity than a bike, the whole point of which is that it is possible to power it with only your body.
>>
>>2058296
congratulations!
you get it now
>>
>>2058292
this is how I'd do it. the bow would be in a holster affixed to the rack at the low point and across the top plate, probably with zip ties. I'm assuming they make holsters for bows, here. but making one shouldn't be too challenging.
>>
>>2058339
come to think of it, you could mount it so it hangs down lower than the axle if the midpoint of the bow was higher than the top plate like my drawing
>>
Hello, best front light?
>>
>>2058343
outbound hangover and/or giant recon
you probably don't need the best unless you are riding singletrack in pitch dark tho
>>
>>2058343
anything advertised as being between 900 and 1200 lumens, that isn't stvzo or "cutoff" style
>>
>>2058345
>>2058344
thanks
btw i also have rusty spokes (shitbike), wonder if it's a safety issue or whether i can fix them
>>
>>2058358
if it's just surface rust you can get it off with steel wool or fine sandpaper and it's literally fine. the spokes I wanted for my wheel build only came in black so I sanded all the finish off which was a lot tougher than surface rust and I've been riding it for years no problem.
if the rust is deep and has pitted the surface, those spokes will eventually get eaten through and should be replaced. individual spokes are way cheaper than a new wheel, but re-tensioning and truing a wheel with a lot of new spokes takes some experience. hiring someone to do it might cost more than a new wheel. doing one or two until they feel like the others' tension may not require any truing at all, though.
>>
>>2058130
I don't normally take the bait on these because I don't want to get doxed, but given those digits it seems appropriate
>>2055130
>>
Is a carbon seatpost worth it? Is there really a noticeable reduction in road buzz? Or is it miniscule enought to ignore and go for alloy ones? Weight is negligible right? Unless going for super sketchy ones that are like 100g or something
>>
>>2058374
I have never gone from a long term alloy seatpost to a carbon seatpost on the same bike except a full suspension MTB where obviously there were other factors, but the flex is clearly visible if you've ever been behind a fred on a road bike with a carbon post, so I think it's more than just theoretical. On the other hand if "buzz" is your issue you might be better off with a thudbuster, the carbon posts are more about making the impacts less sharp
>>
>>2058343
Sofirn makes a killer one for like $30
>>
do tiagra hoods have reach adjustment?
finally got around to centering my rim brakes but now i have to reach pretty far for the levers
>>
>>2058378
nevermind they do
now my smol femboy hands can grip the levers tightly
>>
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>>2058307
I have one of those Unior torque wrenches at work and it's nice that it signals when you're in the 90-100% to target range with beeps, and that you can input the desired torque digitally, but ultimately it doesn't do anything that the basic Pro -branded analog wrench in my toolbox at home doesn't. I'd be wary of buying any suspiciously cheap, but if I were buying a replacement for myself with my own money it'd be another analog wrench from a decent brand that can be trusted to sell things that are accurately calibrated when new.

>>2058374
Really depends on the design of the post, what you're replacing, and the more exposed length you have the more difference a carbon post can make.
>>
Hello I’m seething.

Past few hundred km, there has been a kind of clunking/tapping/knocking sound coming from the back wheel when I engage the power stroke on either pedal. Cleaned the derailleur and re indexed everything, works perfectly up on the stand. Ok so must be the cassette or the hub. Popped off cassette and it looks immaculate on the hub although there is a little play but not THAT much. There was quite a bit of side to side play on the wheel so figured it must be shot bearings although they only have like 4k km on them. Took it into the shop, he seemed to agree with me, left the wheel there, he did the bearings and cones, wheel is now rock solid in there AND ITS STILL FUCKING CLUNKING. The bottom bracket has near zero play in it, feels pretty much like new. What the actual f is going on any ideas dudes?
>>
>>2058385
Freehub? happened to me and I just got a new wheelset lmaoooooo fixed the problem
But I feel like its the freehub mechanism
>>
>>2058374
I think so. I have carbon bars and seatpost and it’s not immediately noticeable but I rode my exact bike in stock configuration with alu everything and I was like fuck this is kinda harsh
>>
>>2058385
I don't necessarily think this is it but might as well flush the freehub, it's easy and if you've never done it, it could use it.
is the derailleur pivoting freely on the mounting bolt?
>>
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>>2058374
i had one. it was too bouncy and then it broke even though i used a torque wrench and installation paste
>>
>>2058423
>things that never happened
>>
>>2058385
if you 100% ruled out the bottom bracket its the freehub body, what rear hub do you got?
>>
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Started biking recently, is it normal that my elbows hurt like a bitch?
>>
>>2058427
yeah
>>
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>>2058424
it was ritchey's chinkshit
>>
>>2058427
ur bike is 2 big 4 u
>>
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I can pick up a used idworx grandone in size 56. I'm 190cm/94cm inseam. Do you think I could make it work, or should I look for something with more reach?
>>
>>2058437
Yeah it's an old mountain bike my parents bought me to ride around the shitty gravel roads in ny hometown that spent the last 10 years buried under a mound of coal, took it to the city and it required shockingly little fixing. Just pumped some air into the tires and tightened the brakes. It's very unsuited to riding in the city.
>>
>>2058427
something with the fit is off. if the frame is at all too big or very small for you, there's not a lot you can do.
if it's a little small or correct, either the seat height, tilt, and/or fore-and-aft is off, the stem is to high or low, the reach of the stem is to long or short, your bar could be too wide... all these things affect each other, too. getting it in the ballpark is pretty easy by following the common guidelines easily searched.
one sure cause of arm pain (although usually wrist) is the saddle tilted nose-down which shoves your whole body weight into your arms.
>>
accidentally tightened my rear thru axle while my chain wasnt properly on the cassette. the chain was like stuck between the end of the cassette and touching the frame. hear a slight click/tap sound as i slowly tightened the axle but stopped when i heared this sound and thats how i found out it wasnt seated properly.

checked the rear deraileur and the frame, nothing looks cracked or broken. gear shifts fine but on the very last gear there is audible noise when pedaling. anything else to check or am i all good?
>>
>>2058503
u gonna die nigga
>>
do you think it's bad idea to widen the valve hole in carbon rim so it can fit schrader valve? mtb rim.
I hate presta with passion
>>
>>2058585
>carbon mtb rim
>french valve hole
lmfao what bike
>>
>>2058586
I have ordered new wheelset from our chinese overlords. isn't presta a standard?
>>
>>2058585
maybe get schwalbe clik valves. Never understood the hate for presta desu.
>>
>>2058589
>clik valves
doesn't look bad and they're cheap enough. do you use those?
>>
>>2058586
Basically any bike that is worth more than $200 new will have presta valves anon
>>
>>2058596
a goodly proportion of anons are still really upset that disc brakes exist. there are like four anons total that have ever laid eyes on a decent wheelset.
>>
>>2058585
>carbon
sell it and buy something metal
>>
>>2058596
Trekking bikes and city bikes are often with schrader

>>2058591
no because I've never had problems with presta but I've that SKS pump head for presta and schrader and I fill the tires I ride tubeless while mounting them and not through the valve.
>>
Working on the little stuff on my bike and I notice that my rim brake return springs are a little weak. No matter how much I adjust the brakes, they get out of wack really easily and I think it's just that the springs in there suck.

Can I buy just new springs for less than the cost of new brakes or do I need to call one of my hick buddies to wind and heat-treat some wire for me?

I also need some fenders but notice that they're all like 90bux for some shitty plastic, is there anyone that makes cheap fenders or do I gotta similarly call up a hick friend to see if he has any scrap metal he can bend vaguely into shape for me for 20$. I don't need any fancy shit i just want to get marginally less mud on me when i commute to werk

>>2058343
i use a dollar store LED headlamp i clipped to the handlebars and it's good enough for low speed riding on one of my local trails
>>
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>>2058343
i unironically dont understand why dedicated bike lights exist when you can get some malljinja "tactical" light that puts out 12542069 lumens in one of five modes or four colours and they already make bike-specific clamps to put basically anything round that has ever existed anywhere you want on the frame or handlebars
>>
>>2058616
>anyone that makes cheap fenders
not in this economy.
they always seemed pricier than what you got but that's the economics of niche items. nowadays inflation raised the price again.
SKS longboards used to be the best budget option but I don't think they make them anymore. they have something called bluemels which are full coverage and "only" $70. I like the Velo Orange models which are 90 for either alu or steel, their strut mounts are ripped off from Honjo ( a blingy brand) and it's a good design and they look cool.
anyway, if you commute, they're something you're going to get a lot of use out of and are still worth it at these prices. going from a cheap seat post mount rear fender to a set of full coverage was one of the best purchases I ever made. keeps your drivetrain super clean, too.
>>
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>>2058618
I'm not sure there's really a huge cost savings if you are buying a flashlight with good waterproofing and run time. I'm running an older discontinued model, the Bontrager Ion Elite R. $100, 90 minutes at 1000 lumens. there's probably better shit out there now but it's what I know

I found a site that recs flashlights to kayakers (I don't trust generic amazon claims of waterproofness), and they were suggesting some Fenix brand products. looking through the Fenix catalog, the performance is comparable

so what's there to understand? if it gives you a thrill like you found the One Cool Trick Big Bike Doesn't Want You To Know then more power to you, but I'm not seeing an issue here
>>
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>>2058620
for comparison here is the fenix I was looking at, which goes for $70 on amazon. you could argue that it's better but I don't know about the beam pattern, it's hardly the no-brainer you're making it out to be
>>
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>>2058621
here's one of their dediccated bike lights, $75. performance is somewhat better than the flashlight, but it's bigger. the replaceable battery actually sounds pretty nice, I might get this for my next bike light
>>
>>2058619
longboards were overhyped, they were perfectly fine but I never understood why people were so militant about them being better than anything else

for my money if I was going to build a commuter today I'd get some planet bike fenders, those were my favorite of the various brands I tried in my virgin commuter days. really nicely designed, simple and clean, and not expensive
>>
>>2058620
you can get a name-brand Maglite that is robust enough to beat a nigger to death in a snowstorm for 20$

>(I don't trust generic amazon claims of waterproofness)
this would have been true as little as 10 years ago but modern Chinesium Machining And ASSembly is decent enough and it's trivial to waterproof stuff now. not like "just do it at home lol" the factories cranking this shit out are just throwing little rubber/silicone grommets fucking everywhere because it's cheaper to have the one assembly line and adding a few O-Rings even if no one asked for them is like an extra half a cent of production cost compared to having a whole second line just for the 5.99 model vice the 25.99 model.

>One Cool Trick Big Bike Doesn't Want You To Know
it is very true and it gives me nearly sexual excitement, yes
but on a more serious note, other than typical corporate cucking anti-serviceability, that kind of profile just makes sense. throw a quick release instead of a thumbscrew and charge an extra 90$ because it's an "emergency personel light" as well as being a bike-specific whats-essentially-a-mini-maglite

>>2058619
>>2058623
pay a hick 15$ and a blowjob to make me a piece of curved metal with a bracket on it, got it

maybe i can be truly satanic and see if the library has a large enough 3d printer, or steal a political sign and cut it into shape and bind it with craft wire before blobbing on a bunch of paint primer to "seal" where the edges join
>>
>>2058623
>planet bike fenders
good call. their Full Circle models are only $55
>>
>>2058624
my entire bike weighs less than the $20 maglite, I think I'll stick with my dedicated bike-specific headlamps
>>
>>2058627
your bike weighs less than 50 oz? lol
>>
>>2058624
raw candlepower is a FAR more useful weapon, I'll stick with my 20,000 lumen death-rays
>>
wouldn't it make far more sense for bike lights to point backwards? you'd go faster and everyone behind you would go slower
>>
>>2058634
>he doesn't have a 654,000,000 lumen brake light to instantly kill everyone behind him when he wants to set the speed of traffic
bruh...
>>
>>2058636
is that an aliexpress thing or...
>>
>>2058637
for when you need a Tactical Dazzler in 9pm traffic
https://www.amazon.ca/Alla-Lighting-Strobe-Bright-Flashing/dp/B07F9HPGJ4?th=1
>>
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>>2058634
actually I use a white taillight but I'm so fast it looks red in your frame of reference
>>
>>2058642
>>
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>>2058642
h-he's fast!
>>
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>>2058642
not so fast
>>
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>buy lemond zurich 2002
>comes with seatpost (26.8)
>check internet if this is the actual size
>forums say 27.2
>26.8 fits
>27.2 barely fits
This is getting ridiculous. Anyone have this frame and tell me it's 27.2. Trying to find 26.8 seatpost is a pain in the ass
>>
>>2058680
>lemond zurich 2002
are you the mod of /r/nycbike/ who lives in portland oregon
>>
>>2058681
No, I just bought this off a guy who was selling his grandpa's frame.
>>
>>2058681
>mod of /r/nycbike/ who lives in portland oregon
lmao what
>>
>>2058685
just normal reddit things. last I checked the mods were in oregon, san francisco, and one guy from either hoboken or jersey city I forgot which

I can thank nikolasv (old timers will remember) for introducing me to that shit hole
>>
>>2058345
>t. chinkshit lumen blaster user
>>
>>2058686
awesome funposter
great white(tripcode trustno1)
bianchi-kun cawk pics

am i oldfig?
>>
>>2058701
if by "chinkshit" you mean I didn't look where it was made but probably china like everything, then sure, I guess. like I said in another post my current headlamp is a bontrager

>>2058702
I miss bianchi kun making /n/ confused about its sexuality
>>
>>2058702
I was in the thread when he posted his trip in the wrong field. laughed my ass off, that guy was a jerk
>>
>>2058706
I wished he had posted long enough to doxx himself, I would have loved telling his employer what kinds of things he posted on 4chan
>>
the leddit bike subs suck ass. i check them occasionally like other bike forums and its mostly 'is this okay to ride?' and its a pic of a dry rotted tire or 'a car beeped at me today DAE wish cars didnt exist??'
>>
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I can't get more clearance here, are the brake pads the issue?
>>
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Do you like your col climbs with milestones, or without?
>>
>>2058732
I like those for selfies and stuff but they always put them in the worst spots so you can't get a nice action shot of yourself and the tombstone and a nice panoramic background in the same shot and I'm not doing a video tape of myself for the ticktock because I'm not zoom'd
>>
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>>2058731
Nevermind, I remembered I had two of these babies lying around.
>>
>>2058731
no its the brake levers themselves, they need to be way longer, wtf where did you even get ones that short
>>
>>2058731
In theory you could make a taller isocoles triangle between the brake line hook(???) and calipers thus giving you some more clearance by reducing the length of the cable from your brake lever shorter and the cable between your brake calipers longer but you're probably american and don't understand basic geometry considering you already got calipers that don't even clear your wheel in the first place.
>>
>>2058119
I am in awe at how retarded you are.
>>
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>Looking for campy groupset for a neo retro build
>Look up secondhand parts
>Have multiple versions
>Pre 2009
>2009-2014
>2015+
>Different pull ratios
>Ultrashift and Power-shift
>Daytona and Centaur shenanigans
What is wrong with Campagnolo? Is this why Shimano and SRAM dominate the market?
>>
>>2058776
the angle of the triangle determines the braking power. you don't just get to put it anywhere you want. that's why the one side is a fixed length, you incredibly smarmy dipshit
>>
>>2057816
literally just read the picture he posted i'm sure he won't be back to help you since your this pathetic.
>>
>>2058370
your an actual schizophrenic if you think someone is gonna find you and do anything to you based on your bicycle posting online to the point where you drew over your bicycle in a picture. You shouldn't be posting here.
>>
>>2058785
>this nigger too stupid to change a brake cable
either get new calipers or have slightly less mechanical advantage after moving cables around if you want enough clearance to install a fender or whatever
>>
>>2058789
>tells someone that they're stupid
>then tells them to set up their brakes wrong
>gets called out
>doubles down
way to go, retard.
I'm not the guy asking the question. I'm the guy telling you you don't know what you're talking about.
>>
>>2058790
there is no fixing those brakes, bro, all you can do is move the design stupidity around a little

i was gonna say you could overcome them being lopsided by either installing a new cable or using the spring adjustment but i see now that there is no screw for the cable and no adjustment for the return spring. lol. lmao. just get new brakes
>>
>>2058731
I had a bike once that had brakes like these. It was absolute dogshit.
>>
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>>2058785
You’re not wrong but theres no reason you couldn’t move it/get a longer one. Its not the end of the world.

Lots of them are completely adjustable like picrel
>>
>>2058784
If you have more ratios in the same physical space it's obviously gonna need a diffrent amount of pull
>>
>>2058731
Yeah get v brakes problem solved
>>
>>2058803
Nah, I don't like the looks of them.
>>
Like I said, I fixed the clearance issue >>2058756

I chose an angle that was still pretty flat but gives me enough clearance to even mount slim mud guards.
>>
>>2058801
yes, this is a solution that makes sense. telling anon he should just move the cables into a different triangle while simultaneously calling HIM stupid is what I took issue with.
>>
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How would you fix this mud guard to the fork? I can come up with somewhat servicable but crappy solutions, maybe there's a better way. Maybe so that I don't have to fashion a little metal piece to bridge the distance.They will have to sit even a bit lower than in the picture.
>>
>>2058839
>Maybe so that I don't have to fashion a little metal piece to bridge the distance
I pondered this for a few minutes, but I really don't see any other effective way. wire or zip ties would do it but they *will* break. there's a surprising amount of stress on fender mounts in terms of vibration, I've had problems even with the provided mounts.
>>
>>2058841
I wouldn't want to use zipties anyway, too much work in the bike for that now.
>>
>>2058841
Alright, it's rough but pretty much invisible in the end.
>>
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>>2058853
Forgot pic
>>
>>2058856
good lad
>>
>>2058811
It's probably some furfaggot from /cgl/
>>
>>2058119
The exact moment this thread went wrong.
>>
>>2058839
Don't listen to anything these furfaggots tell you. It's perfect as is.
>>
>>2058839
It already looks secure to me, what's wrong with it?
>>
>>2058801
>theres no reason you couldn’t move it/get a longer one.
It would completely destroy the front fork you fucking moron.
>>
>>2058776
And how do you propose magically changing the length of the cable?
>>
prepone the needful & extend brake cable saar...
>>
I have a bike from 2022, can it be converted to tubeless or is it better to get a new one?
>>
>>2058839
Cut slots for the cable
>>
>>2058886
kek, thanks Anon
>>
>>2058893
Your tires need to be tubeless-ready (look for that or "TR" on their flanks), and the rims need to support it as well. Show us a photo.
>>
>>2058894
No need, the mudguard sits much lower now, there's enough space.
>>
>>2058893
We need more info
>>
>>2058889
I don't think we're talking about same things, mr. retarded nigger

If he got a longer Yolk cable, he certainly would not be at risk of destroying his fork
>>
>>2058923
>just le replace random le parts surely nothing bad will happen
>>
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>like having a radio
>no good jacket pockets to put my radio in whilst biking
>clipped my baofeng to my backpack strap on the usual little strap clearly made for a CamelBak™ or usb cables or something despite the backpack not having a hydradion bladder or dedicated electronics pockets let alone cable glands
>everyone on the bike path fucking roasts me for having a "big" radio strapped to me, calls me a PMC, warmonger, etc
Why

I'm literally just listening to the city bus control net for fun
>>
>>2058927
You know nothing about cantilever brakes you should shut the fuck up. you don't know the pain
>>
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My rim brakes cause wild vibrations. I know the wheel is not aligned very well, but the vibration seems undue. I've done my best to adjust the brakes to compensate for how badly the wheel is dished, and given enough slack in the cable to keep them open when the wheel is spun by hand at the bench. Still, in live conditions, the brakes rub occasionally, and vibrate wildly under load.

W2C new brake return springs for cheap and when is it time for new shoes?
>>
>>2058950
Just throw it out and get a new bike retard
>>
>>2058950
go find a spoke-wrench and a clicky pen and true your wheel.
>>
>>2058953
I am waiting until I have a bunch of electrical/electronics stuff to bother truing the wheels, because it's some boomer built e-bike so I'd have to cut lines to do anything properly. The front is as wobbly as one would expect from a big box store bike and really not so bad, but the rear is truly disastrous. Still, to even remove the tire and tube properly and have them out of my way will need surgery I'm not willing to do until I can augment that nigga in one long go.
>>
>>2058954
you don't need to remove the wheel or do anything complicated. I'm completely serious here; clicky pen held against the stays so that the clicky part touches the rim and depresses a bit when then out-of-true part of the rim rotates past. With a little bit of patience, observation, and common sense this can get you a better true than 99% of shops will bother to attempt.
>>
>>2058955
I wasn't going to remove the whole wheel, just the tire and tube. It's electric and DIY'd by a retarded boomer, so cables would be in the way of having the tire and tube out of the way. I'd be able to do it, it would just be so annoying the whole time that I wouldn't do it well. Assuming that the tire not being entirely gone it would have the clearance to let the wheel spin freely in the frame.

And still, I want new brake springs too.
>>
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I have a fishing vest. Would it be cringe to wear it biking? I find that I have a lot of pocket stuff but the pockets on typical jackets are either too open, or don't feature easy enough to use fasteners. Or rather, would it be cringe enough to get the cops called or have someone otherwise concerned enough to do shit about it? I don't want to reach for my vape and have some karen call 911 thinking I'm about to draw a grenade.
>>
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>>2058956
...
pics?
>>
>>2058958
it's dark and my apartment is a mess anyway so nah. just imagine the worst wiring you've ever seen but replace every instance of an obvious short risk with using way too much electrical tape
>>
>>2058959
>just imagine the worst wiring you've ever seen

I've been on the wrong side of 1930s shit and you are scaring me right now
>>
>>2058960
mate the controller does up with quick-release molex-style connectors but there's wire nuts in there. also the battery itself uses an ISO connector with an earth ground. there is no earth ground on the controller, for obvious reasons. earth ground is wired to itself.

and even when i got it, precluding any battle damage, even that wasn't taped up properly. it was taped up A LOT and I have no worries, but there's an exposed section of jacketing, at least.

the nigga i bought it from was(is) french as fuck so i trust him thoughbeit, french canadian hicks are like jokaeros
>>
>>2058956
>>2058958
>>2058959
>>2058961
>He doesn't run his ebike wiring through the tire
>>
>>2058961
not so bad then.
>>
>>2058948
>some ebike nigger is swerving all over the trail
>hes fucking struggling to maintain 10mph
>tailgate him to get ready to overatake
>hear something over my podcast
>"...Bandits on radar... ...hostile units... ...fell the tall trees... "
>>
>>2058964
Oh yeah, it's not nearly as bad as it could be. It's just annoying. Like I said, I'm just waiting for some orders from the hardware store before I rip everything apart and make it a little more routinely serviceable.
>>
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I don't wanna start believing in Machine Spirits but on a particular corner it feels like my e-bike motor has full power to deliver and it fucking cranks me up it. It doesn't feel banked either way, and is a short corkscrew traversing maybe five feet up or down followed by a hard corner at the bottom. It feels incredibly dangerous so I always take it at very low speed in a very low gear (since it feels step, too)

But on my commute around that point, my bike fucking struggles, I struggle, and on that one corner when I'm lazy the battery dumps power to help me and when I feel good, it feels like my throttle fails on it every time. Up or down. I know nothing has changed either way, but no matter what happens, taking that S feels great every single time.

Any resources on race track design to understand why that one corner feels so fucking good no matter what? It's just a fucking good turn. It's not even kept well, that's the one where there's always wet leaves on the whole length and bullshit and puddles at either end. But of all the dumb curves on that trail, that one feels like the goddamn Wall of Champions
>>
Why aren't there any good biking video games? Imagine vidrel but for every season of biking except instead of tire and engine noise it's tire and panting
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uGmD2Vtw1f8
>le song of ice and tyres lol
winter biking owns but normies cant do it, imagine a vidya about it to get them in thoughbeit
>>
>>2058957
do not do this
>>
Are snow tires for bikes real?
>>
>>2058969
Congratulations. Your bike loves you.
>>
>>2058974
does my bike like it when I take it apart and hose it down in wd-40 or
>>
>>2058977
Do you like it when your girlfriend pulls your arms off and sprays PAM in your wounds?
>>
Is playing Burro Banton's "badder dan dem" at max volume from a bluetooth speaker a sufficient signalling device?
>>
Is it a good idea to install mudguards on a mountain bike? could i get them on aliexpress? i live in a rainy region so they could be quite useful
>>
>>2058990
Unironically a no brainer, you'll be stuck with having the rear fixed to the seatpost, depending on if there's no mounting holes for alternatives.
>>
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>>2058990
yes. I'm using sks
https://www.bike24.com/p2100189.html
>>
>>2058950
why don't you just dish and true the wheel you fucking retard? or pay someone
>>
>>2059003
>ebike
fucking use the ebike thread. your idiotic cable problems are not our problems
>>
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>>2058981
I'm sure everyone around you notices your condition even without the music.
>>
>>2058990
What kind of MTB? I just installed a fixed pair on my rigid gravel conversion. It's great for the wet seasons.
>>
The front derailleur shift lever on my bike has a problem with it not catching the cable when i try to switch to larger chainrings. I don't feel any resistance or "pull" at all, but this only happens occasionally, what could be the issue here?
>>
would snakebite gaiters do much against a dog bite? I know it's way more force, but surely it'd be better than nothing
>>
>>2059128
maybe shin guards for soccer? I guess that's only the front, though
>>
>>2058992
You can get some that you zip tie to the seat stay like a rear hugger on a motorcycle
>>
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My bike had a 7-speed sunrace cassette that I was going to exchange for a shimano 7-speed cassette.
The new cassette slides on no problem but there's no space for the last sprocket that connects to the lockring to fit. Turns out the new cassette has a spacer bolted onto the back that I can't remove. What am i missing? Have there been some standards change? I have no idea how old the wheel/hub is, but the sunrace cassette was bought a couple of years ago.
Fucking impossible to google this shit if nothing else.
>>
Is the old (white label) super record 11 for $500 a good deal? Only shifters, front and rear mech, and chainset
>>
>>2059196
You can buy an entire Honda Civic for 500$
>>
>>2059191
Check this out:
https://www.lightbicycle.com/newsletter/Bike-Freehub-Cassette-Compatibility-Manual.html

That's not a normal Shimano HG 7-spd cassette, they don't usually have a wide spacer like that. At least, I haven't seen it.

Buying bike parts can be frustrating. I've probably bought every possible part wrong at least once. You often don't know there are differences until you run into a problem.
>>
>>2059261
The specific cassette is CS-HG210-7, from what I can see it's a bog-standard 7 speed cassette. Of course, 7 speed doesn't seem to be all that common nowadays. I'm more suspicious towards the hub itself, seems to be some off-brand shimano imitation, for all I know it might be a 6-speed hub originally.

I might just look for a 8-10 speed hub/wheel and futureproof for a new frame.
>>
we haven't had a post in days.
tried to make a new thread but still get repeating cooldowns.
anyone?
>>
>>2059397
Why make a new thread? This one doesn't even smell yet.
>>
>>2059409
nobody's posting in it.
everyone's waiting for the new one instead of making it .
usually we get at least several posts per day.
>>
>>2058680
bump
>>
>>2059586
we're past the bump limit, dufus.
also, there's a new thread now
>>
New thread >>2041959
>>
>>2059598
kill yourself



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