[a / b / c / d / e / f / g / gif / h / hr / k / m / o / p / r / s / t / u / v / vg / vm / vmg / vr / vrpg / vst / w / wg] [i / ic] [r9k / s4s / vip / qa] [cm / hm / lgbt / y] [3 / aco / adv / an / bant / biz / cgl / ck / co / diy / fa / fit / gd / hc / his / int / jp / lit / mlp / mu / n / news / out / po / pol / pw / qst / sci / soc / sp / tg / toy / trv / tv / vp / vt / wsg / wsr / x / xs] [Settings] [Search] [Mobile] [Home]
Board
Settings Mobile Home
/o/ - Auto


Thread archived.
You cannot reply anymore.


[Advertise on 4chan]


Newfag to /o/ so forgive me if there's some thread I should be posting this is, but I have a 2000 Chevy S-10, I just started it up and something is very obviously wrong, it was "revving" in first gear, the gear shift was bouncing around so I test drove it in circles around my yard I could barely get it to move in first gear, does anyone know the problem here?
>>
we sometimes have a SQTDDTOT
anyway,
how much is is revving? Is it trying to go to redline or is it just going up to like 3k?

Not likely to be the issue, but something quick you could check would be the motor/tranny mounts. Open the hood and give it a little throttle and see if the engine tilts quite a bit when revved.
>>
>>27777086
The first thing to check is the transmission fluid, especially if there are any red-black puddles where you parked.

Also check the transfer case selection. Is it in 4Lo?
>>
>>27777220
the most likely thing to be the issue is a vaccum leak or something wrong with what the car uses to idle correctly.

basically means air is getting into the intake somewhere behind the throttle (where the MAF or MAP sensor is that measures air). The new air isn't accounted for by the computer so it won't add the fuel to match the incoming air.

This can cause RPM to increase as well as result in less power. the way you check it is
1. Listening for any hissing noises coming from the engine
2. Get soapy water and spray it on parts of the intakes system. If it starts to bubble somewhere then that's likely a leak. Or you can spray carb cleaner and see if the RPM increases when you spray it somewhere (if there's a leak the carb cleaner will go into the intake and act as fuel).
3. See if your car has an idle air control valve or something and see if there's anything you can do to test it.
>>
>>27777235
>the most likely thing to be the issue is a vaccum leak
Seconding this.
>>
>>27777220
The whole thing is jumping around like something is loose.
>>27777234
No puddles, it's also only 2 wheel drive.
>>
>>27777086
>gearshift moving
engine mounts are hooped
Stickshift or auto? If stickshift, the clutch needs replacing. If auto, the transmission is dead and needs a rebuild.
Speaking honestly these cars aren't worth the paper their titles are printed on, they have glass transmissions and some of the shittiest engines GM has ever made.
>>
>>27777871
"jumping around" is not very descriptive. Is it BABABABABABABABA bouncing off the rev limiter, VRRRRRRRRRR at a consistent RPM higher than idle, or variable?
>>27777877
Seconding, engine and/or transmission mounts are shot. Not the end of the world but should be replaced to alleviate that, it will make it ride nicer and make shifting easier.
>>
>>27777871
You mean the engine and transmission itself?
If so you have bad motor and/or tranny mounts.
No idea if that's causing your lack of power though, my updated guess is that the broken mounts pulled on something too hard and caused a vacuum leak.
>>
>>27777908
if you're referring to the RPM bouncing around, that's indicative of a vacuum leak, although it could also just be some sensor that's bad, but more likely the former. I once had a coolant sensor go out and it caused the engine to stumble and lose a lot of power.
>>
>>27777912
>>27777908
Trying to translate OP's words, if he's saying that it revs excessively in first gear *when he tries to give it gas*, might be a slipping clutch or almost total loss of transmission fluid, at least in the torque converter, but that doesn't just happen overnight.
>>
>op posts "pls halp", refuses to answer basic questions and disappears
>anons attempt to solve the mystery
lol sqt exists for a reason
>>
>>27777922
His reply about "Jumping around" was in response to me telling him to check the motor mounts, so I think he means that, but I'm not sure.

I wonder if the tranny mounts are good and the engine mounts were bad if that could cause issues with the clutch or torque converter?

Although if the mounts are bad, I'm gonna guess he has a different issue that was probably caused or exacerbated by the broken mounts, that's the primary cause of the lack of power.
>>
>>27777937
God fucking help OP if the transmission and engine have become decoupled and are only held in place by disintegrating mounts, so that wouldn't be something to think about.
>>
>>27777877
Stick shift.
>>27777891
The motor is bouncing and the gear shift too.
>>27777923
Sorry man I took a nap after posting the thread, and I'm honestly not that mechanically adept.
>>
>>27778063
That doesn't explain what you meant by "revving" assuming that is a separate issue from the fucked engine/tranny mounts.
>>
>>27778069
Wrong choice of words, I should've probably said fluctuating.
>>
>>27778085
Ok, awesome, a bunch of us guessed fluctuating and we can go from there with a vacuum leak diagnosis: >>27777235.
>>
>>27777086
Just know that your s-10 is inferior to the Ford ranger.
>>
Welp, What truck should I get to replace it? I was thinking either a Toyota Tacoma, or Chevy Colorado.
>>
>>27778063
>Stick shift.
replace the clutch and pressure plate. it's pretty easy on these 2wd 'boxes, just drop the trans and replace it.

>>27778239
taco. you have a chevy doing chevy things and you are dumb enough to consider buying another? They're ALL like this. t. 1992 S10 (dead) owner
>>
>>27777086
T H R O T T L E B O D Y I S F U C K E D.
>>
>>27778239
Why would you replace the entire vehicle instead of fixing the problem?
>>
>>27778612
because he's a normie that's been conditioned to think when your shitbox has a problem, you should either take a gamble on another shitbox or take a loan from shekeltein to finance a new car.
>>
>>27778250
>a chevy doing chevy things
Lasting 24 years?
>>
>>27778063
>>27778085
wait hold up, so is the engine both physically bouncing/rocking in the engine bay AND the rpm is fluctuating? Or is it just one of the two?
>>
>>27778657
they can last 24 years, but fucking everything is wrong with them by that point. chevies are built to a price and become extremely unreliable past 15 years old. ask me how i know
>>
>>27778732
That's literally every car, even Honda's and Toyota's have plenty of stuff go wrong when they get that old. It's just the big ticket internals that last forever and GMs are perfectly capable of that as well with proper maintenance.
>>
>>27777922
Trying to decipher hus post also led me to this conclusion.
>>
>>27778741
>even Honda's and Toyota's have plenty of stuff go wrong when they get that old
not as much though. i own several toyotas, hondas and a couple chevies, all over 20. the chevies are huge maintenance whores while the nipshit just keeps going.
>It's just the big ticket internals that last forever and GMs are perfectly capable of that as well with proper maintenance.
Wow, the rotating assembly doesn't explode when driven, that's a really, really high bar.
Everything but that goes wrong. *jumps timing in your path*. Oil leaks. Electrics and vacuum shit go to hell. Trans explodes.
Haven't seen motor mounts go bad yet, that's new.
>>
>>27778763
and I've had Honda's that were total pieces of shit and friends with GM cars that ran without issue despite being 20+ years old (the V6s that were an LS with two cylinders chopped off were great).

The most unreliable car I ever had was a '96 Accord. That thing was a total piece of shit. Once you get to >15 years old maintenance and how they were driven start to matter and GM vehicles are perfectly capable of being relatively reliable once they're that old.

>Haven't seen motor mounts go bad yet, that's new.
That's a fairly common thing to go wrong on older cars, they're literally just giant bushings.
>>
>>27778784
>(the V6s that were an LS with two cylinders chopped off were great)
that's funny, that's the exact engine that caused me aeons of asshurt. they also made 160hp crank and got absolute dogshit mileage whatfor being single-point injected. in my mind it's yet another domestic emissions-cope engine
>The most unreliable car I ever had was a '96 Accord. That thing was a total piece of shit
what was wrong with it? trans?
>That's a fairly common thing to go wrong on older cars, they're literally just giant bushings.
i'm well aware, i just havent had real problems with them. mine are all stiff and old but not tore up like OP's.
>>
>>27778798
>that's funny, that's the exact engine that caused me aeons of asshurt.
that's funny because that '96 Accord is generally considered a very reliable car, and probably is most of the time, it was just bad luck really.
>what was wrong with it
Literally everything but the engine internals and trans (4cyl manual).
outer steering rods had to be replaced (only time I've ever needed to torch something to get it off), electrical issues like the horn not working, the coolant temp sensor connector melted and I had to get a new one from a junk yard and solder it on. EGR valve clogged and had to be cleaned. It also needed a new charcoal canister, I know I didn't replace it, either just left it that way or bypassed it. Just constant shit like that.
>>
>>27778807
well it did have one transmission issue, which was the first gear and reverse syncros were pretty fucked. Although that's from people using modern 10w-30 instead of Honda MTF fluid. (Back in the day regular motor oil had zinc additives, it was removed some time in the late 90's and zinc was very important for the syncros. So Honda created Honda MTF with the zinc additive, but retards just thought it was a scam and put regular 10w-30 in it which would fuck up the syncros over time).
>>
>>27778812
people use conventional oil in trannies??? the fuck? news to me. i was taught to always use OEM MTF.
i thought my newest 'yota didn't even have 1st synchro until i read the service manual, sure enough it's a triple cone synchro. it's just that fucked. pretty sure the gear oil is factory.
>>
>>27778831
it was particular to Honda's (although maybe Toyota had something similar). Although I think my time line was a little off. It was in the 80's Honda just called for 10w-30 in their manual transmissions. By the 90's was wehn they'd stopped putting zinc additives in oil and so Honda started specifying the Honda MTF, but a lot of people still used 10w-30 because that's what the older manuals called for and they thought Honda MTF was a money grab.

Although generally the 1st gear and reverse syncros take the most beating. If you shift at the correct time you really don't even need syncros (for example if you double clutch instead of granny shifting). Whereas first and reverse you can't really do anything about it.
>>
>>27778612
>>27778623
Yes it's a shitbox, I've had problems after problems all in a row, It's time to replace it all together.
>>
>>27778831
Ive had a couple of m/t cars that took dex3 ATF.
>>
>>27779925
well you better buy a newer more expensive car, because if you buy an equal shitbox you're just going to be buying from someone who's selling for the exact same reason as you.



[Advertise on 4chan]

Delete Post: [File Only] Style:
[Disable Mobile View / Use Desktop Site]

[Enable Mobile View / Use Mobile Site]

All trademarks and copyrights on this page are owned by their respective parties. Images uploaded are the responsibility of the Poster. Comments are owned by the Poster.