[a / b / c / d / e / f / g / gif / h / hr / k / m / o / p / r / s / t / u / v / vg / vm / vmg / vr / vrpg / vst / w / wg] [i / ic] [r9k / s4s / vip / qa] [cm / hm / lgbt / y] [3 / aco / adv / an / bant / biz / cgl / ck / co / diy / fa / fit / gd / hc / his / int / jp / lit / mlp / mu / n / news / out / po / pol / pw / qst / sci / soc / sp / tg / toy / trv / tv / vp / vt / wsg / wsr / x / xs] [Settings] [Search] [Mobile] [Home]
Board
Settings Mobile Home
/o/ - Auto


Thread archived.
You cannot reply anymore.


[Advertise on 4chan]


File: IMG_0792.jpg (167 KB, 750x858)
167 KB
167 KB JPG
Since yesterday my car has been vibrating a lot, not just the engine but the whole car.
It’s also much harder to shift gears now, I have to force the gear lever into a gear if I’m at lower rpms. At higher rpms the vibrations decrease and shifting is easier.
I drove around to test things out and discovered:
>Burnt clutch smell after the drive
>Hard to shift at lower rpms, when vibration is more intense
>Vibrations are felt even in neutral, and also with the clutch pressed on
>One time when riding the clutch to slowly move when in 2nd made a loud thump noise and the car stalled as if it went in neutral (possible disengagement)
>The car also rejected a gear change once even when the clutch was pressed, as if it were still in gear
>The car also drags, increasing rpms faster than it increases speed, meaning some slippage is occurring.

I have replaced the clutch and clutch press about 2 months ago, but went in for a performance kit for more torque and a more aggressive engagement. I kept original DMF as the repair manual said I could keep it through one clutch change.
Could this have killed my DMF?
What should I do in order to confirm my suspicions? I just know the dealership is going to quote me a shit ton of parts that aren’t necessary.
>>
maybe you just don't know how to drive a manual properly. lots of people "can" but end up with burnt clutches before 100k
>>
>>27984289
The previous one lasted 135k miles with me and I mostly only changed it because I wanted to be able to hold more torque.
It’s not a bad driving issue. This started happening yesterday after speeding on the highway. My take was it that this performance clutch kit is being too aggressive on the OEM flywheel, which has never been changed.
>>
>>27984251
I changed mine ~50k km ago and it still hasn’t self-destructed yet even after pretty hard driving. Factory one lasted 272k km.
>>
>>27984251
Always replace a dual mass flywheel if you’re putting a new clutch in
>>
>>27984251
>performance clutch
You cracked/snapped one of the pucks so now its out of balance and the pressure plate is cocked sideways because you put it on a flywheel that had grooves from the previous clutch.
>>
>>27984321
that's a more plausible theory then
>>
>>27984402
Well but the car still vibrates on idle and when the clutch isn’t engaged, so I don’t think it would be from a snapped puck.
>>
>>27984384
I’ve put about 1.5k kilometers on mine. I haven’t really put any hard driving on this thing, maybe went over 200kph about 10 times in total, hitting 250 only once.
>>
>>27984251
>could keep it through one clutch change.
in a perfect environment with a perfect driver assuming minimal wear. Always replace a dmf with the clutch.
>>
>>27984478
Guess I’ll do that. It sucks that my initial plan was to get a new Sachs DMF too to go with the clutch but decided to trust the repair manual and save some money.

Also on a side note. If, with the engine off, I can shift gears as easily as I did before without having to force it in, this confirms the transmission itself is okay and the issue is with the DMF or clutch assembly, right?
>>
>>27984414
Verify if it vibrates at a stop in neutral AND at a stop with the clutch in and transmission in gear.
The clutch will still rotate in neutral while at a stop with the clutch engaged or disengaged.
>>
>>27984580
It does on both occasions, reason why I’m more leaning towards the issue being the DMF than the clutch. It vibrates like if I had it cammed.
>>
Did you replace the pilot bearing? Those things howl if you don't.
>>
>>27984605
Only the clutch release bearing. Though I do not hear any howling noise coming from the bell housing.

One theory I found for this issue was that it could even be due to a seized alternator pulley.
I would never have thought of that but about 3 months ago my alternator failed and I had to replace the brushes, slip ring and voltage regulator, though I only replaced the rear bearing, and not the front one in the pulley. I have been having some intermittent red battery lights for these few months but since they go away after a while I tend to ignore them until I can get a new alternator. Could this theory be true?
>>
UPDATE: Took the car to a shop and the mechanic told me that was the injectors failing and wanted to quote me a new set. He did not lift the car or drove it around.
No injector errors pop up when I scan the ECU and even though the engine vibration could be caused by them, how does that explain the difficulty in shifting and the burnt clutch smell?
>>
>>27984251
Performance clutches usually only work with single mass flywheels for this reason. I would never reuse a flywheel on a modern car, and I would never mix and match clutch and flywheel. You either need to get both OEM or both same brand of aftermarket.
>>
>>27986024
>Took the car to a shop
here's your problem, always wrench your own jobs if you want it done right.

if your injectors were failing you would have DTC codes for injector circuits, or a lean/rich condition. do you have these codes?
>>
>>27986036
But I do, I work on my car for everything but the things I need a lift for. I don’t trust mechanics and that’s why I didn’t want to take it to a shop before confirming what the issue was, and the mechanic just proved why.
I don’t have any of those codes, the engine always runs lean because it’s a diesel, but that’s expected.
>>27986031
Well it depends, I bought this one at Sachs performance website. It said in the description it mounts on the OEM dual mass flywheel. What sucked is that initially I actually wanted their DMF too. Guess I’ll have to go and buy it. Shouldn’t have spent on new wheels.
Also if I had installed a SMF it would drive like shit all the time. It’d provably drive the way it does now with the shitted DMF
>>
>>27986158
>Also if I had installed a SMF it would drive like shit all the time. It’d provably drive the way it does now with the shitted DMF
Nah, SMFs drive ok, make a bit of noise with the windows down but tend to rev more freely.
>>
>>27986408
On a petrol one, maybe. But on diesels, DMFs are essential to absorb the vibrations. Running a SMF would cause damage to the gearbox over time, and you’d feel all the vibrations from the engine and the transition stage for each gear shift you make.
If I knew the car would drive fine with one, I’d have gone for one ages ago, they’re cheaper, sturdier and can be resurfaced.
>>
>>27984251
>dual mass flywheel
only germans can think up a technology that can make a previously indestructible solid block of metal into a complex moving part that has potential failure points lmao
>>
>>27986576
This. Hate those faggots. For some reason Nissan adopted this for their V6s and now I have to fucking deal with it. At least it's infrequent.
>>
>>27986576
I wonder if their Panthers had them and that’s why they nuked the tranny when climbing up a hill



[Advertise on 4chan]

Delete Post: [File Only] Style:
[Disable Mobile View / Use Desktop Site]

[Enable Mobile View / Use Mobile Site]

All trademarks and copyrights on this page are owned by their respective parties. Images uploaded are the responsibility of the Poster. Comments are owned by the Poster.