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A thread for fucktarded questions that don't deserve their own thread.

A blown headgasket will cause a piston to be steam cleaned. Is there something similar like feeding an engine water vapor to clean out a good engine to help remove buildup from the combustion chamber?
>>
>>28053645
1.You can literally use a spray bottle to send water into the intake, after the MAF, to clean the combustion chamber.
2. Caron buildup will begin to form as soon as the engine is started making it pointless to do so.
3. fuck off.
>>
are cheap ball joints just as good as expensive ones?
>>
>>28053818
Go middle of the row. The chink ones use really shit metal and can fall apart.
>>
>>28053818
the cheap ones can be sketchy. first ball joint i had break i replaced the control arm with the cheapest one i could find online. about three weeks later it broke. when i took it out to replace it, the actual ball fell out of the joint because it was made out of some kind of high density plastic instead of steel and had cracked in half. just go with OEM if you can this goes for all parts to be honest.
>>
Oh I got a tard question! What does "A-Spec" mean?
>>
>>28053645
Just have your autistic brother give your pistons a bubble bath lol
>>28054135
Oem parts are ridiculously expensive, especially if it’s a car meant to be cheap (Japanese shitbox). If your car is approaching 20yo and things are wearing out due to age, spending money on oem parts is a waste as everything else will break soon. When choosing aftermarket suppliers, read reviews first.

Is a 6-8 inch hairline crack on the windshield repairable? A rock hit a point near the edge on the pass side, starting a crack from the edge of the glass. It hasn’t spread yet but winter is coming. I know insurance kikes will raise my rates if I make a windshield claim, but I have comprehensive.
>>
>>28054157
Take to a windshield place and they can drill out the two ends of the crack to keep it from spreading. They can't really get rid of it.
>>
>>28054157
>If your car is approaching 20yo
the reason those parts lasted that long is because they are OEM and not chink shit.
>>
>>28053818
you get what you pay for, hopefully you don't find out while you're flying down the highway
>>28054228
on first gen tacomas and 3rd gen 4runners there is a serious design flaw of the front lower ball joints where the weight of the vehicle applies tension to the LBJ, so if it eventually fails, it fails catastrophically. toyota did eventually release a revised design that saw the body's weight applying a compression force to the joint instead, so if it fails all that happen is that you experience play in the joint.
i bring this up because the oem joints are known to be built tough enough that they give plenty of warning signs that they need to be replaced before they actually fail. it wasn't uncommon to see forum posts where someone used an aftermarket joint and it failed while they were on a trail or something because they simply weren't built as beefy as the OE ones.
>>
Just bought a huge property and need to buy a trugg to haul shit around.
>$10,000 or less
>Extended cab and 8ft bed
>Higher than the lowest tier (F250 vs F150, chevy 2500 vs 1500, etc)

What should I look for? What should I avoid?
>>
Is there any way to restore a scuffed up windshield from bad wiper blades? At some point I think the blades were worn down so far that there was no blade left
>>
Can an e90 335d sound good with mods? Looked up some videos and the sound just seems so tame despite the power. Mainly looking at the diesel because of reliability etc, but if it's not as fun, then there's no point
>>
>>28053645
as fp said, spray bottle. seafoam and such are also good. try not to hydrolock it.

>>28053818
don't cheap out on shit that keeps the wheels attached. try to buy whoever was the oem supplier (denso, ntk, etc), usually the same quality but cheaper without the branding markup.
>>
>>28054253
Condition is everything, a 3/4 ton in that budget is going to be old enough that brand doesn't matter. What matters is how it was kept and what is currently broken.
>>
>>28053947
>>28054135
>>28054252
>>28054440
thanks
>>
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Good gentlemen of /o/. I have a few really stupid questions to ask you.
How to make my 1.4 turbo to not explode?
The mechanic at the dealership gave me the following recommendations
>Change oil at 10k km or every year whatever comes first( manual says 15k km or year)
I 've read in /o/ that you should change oil more frequently in general
>Don't stress it when the engine is cold
What exactly does that mean though? I try not to exceed 2k rpm or go with more than 90kmh when the engine is cold and of course I don't floor it. Am I doing this right?
>After a long drive let the engine idle for 10-15 seconds so the turbo can cool down before you turn the engine off.
No idea how that works. How does idling helps the turbo cool? Still do it though I just think I look like a retard just sitting in the car with the engine on.

Slightly unrelated question.
When does the turbo kick in. I think, at least my car, it kicks in after you exceed certain rpm(around 1.8k) but I can't be sure as sometimes I think I feel a relatively sudden increase in torque when I am accelerating but I am well bellow the aforementioned threshold.
>>
>>28053645
1 cup of a 50/50 mixture of water and transmission fluid, with the engine at normal operating temperature and revving, 25% at a time. Let engine clear out cylinders and repeat.
ATF prevents cylinder wall damage when the water washes away engine oil.
However, the ATF will contaminate the MAF.
>>
>>28054253
I would go for a Chevy. Toyotas don't exist at that price, and ford's and dodges are generally pretty shit
>>28054774
Change the oil every 3000 miles, with full synthetic. When you pour the oil in Crank the motor without starting it to lube the chain.
>>
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>>28053645
anybody done a head gasket in a 5.7L vortec?
is it as bad as I think it's gonna be?
>>
Ok, hear me out.
A 3 cylinder engine where 2 cylinders work far less than the middle one.
First one is a supercharger, third one is a second stage expansion.
I'm not an engineer so I can't evaluate my own stupidity accurately.
I'm imagining a V12 version where only 4 of the cylinders do combustion work and it's kind of funny. Would end up sounding like a subaru or something I guess.
>>
>>28055665
>Rolls Royce did this with a rotary

Truth stranger than fiction.
>>
>>28054228
This is why I just buy oem or the sub-supplier for common items.
>>
>>28054253
You're already doing fine limiting to Chevy and Ford, they don't grenade themselves like Ram, and do work unlike Toyata. Either way you go your limiting factor is going to be the transmission, Chevy made an unkillable one early 00s and I should have listened better when the FIL told me the model. Chevy will probably be easier to buy over Ford at that price point, you're going to want a 2500/250 for any real hauling, but my FIL been doing great on his property with his 2002 1500 Chevy. Ford also did really good with E4OD and 4R70W. Like other anon said CONDITION, check your frames and brakes at that budget. My area $5k was the starting point for a clapped 90s F150, I don't what your area looks like, but mine to get a 3/4 you'd have to budget 12k+ for a decent condition even at 200k miles. Then you have to worry about that guy fucking on his machine too hard with minimal maintenance. Personally I stayed away from anyone who installed a goose neck.
>>
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Found a Autel IM508 at a sale, but it's locked behind a PIN. Anyone know how to factory reset it?
>>
This was a question on a thread some months ago, but no one cared to give a clear answer.

Since the early 2000's I've heard that modern cars don't need a warm-up when they start them every morning, and that modern oil has made that just a wasteful, polluting step. But I'm always worried that, since the oil isn't lubricating the engine, driving normally from the get-go could bring issues down the line.

So, what I do every morning is start up the engine, give it 15 seconds before doing anything -putting the car into gear, turning on the lights or whatever- and then, get the car going, keeping it under 2,000 rpms until the oil temperature light goes off, which means that the engine is on an acceptable running temperature. Then, and just then, I drive regularly.

Am I doing things right or just behaving as a paranoid oaf? Once again, months ago on the thread people seemed split, some saying that you can drive normally -just warning not to going above 4,500-5,000 RPM on a cold engine- and others agreeing that putting stress on a cold engine/oil is just a car salesmen/dealership/mechanic’s ploy to guarantee costly engine repairs in the future.
>>
>>28055770
Give it back, Jamal.
>>
>>28055770
You can reflash it if you have a windows computer jamal
>>
Need winter tires for my miata. Can get Nexen winguard sport 2 with full installation for $650 out the door. Could also get some pirelli cinturato tires for $990. Not sure if there is anything else worth looking at. All the reddit tires like nokian and blizzaks are 1k before installation.
>>
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>>28053645
Is it worth changing the timing chain on my 2015 328i? No symptoms of a failing chain but I heard the N20 was prone to failure and I'm at 125k miles. Kit from FCP is about $700 but it seems like a bitch job and I'm a total novice when it comes to repairs.
>>
>>28055586
Normally a headgasket would be pretty easy. However with all the wires and plastic shit it's probably a pain. Take lots of pictures to see where all the wires are supposed to. Also pick up a roll of painters tape and label every wire with a little pit tail and write where it went.
>>
>>28054834
Are you spraying it in with a squirt bottle? Guess a couple squirts of brake clean after with it still running would clean the maf?
>>
>>28055875
>putting stress on a cold engine
driving normally isn't putting stress on an engine, redlining it would be. what you do is correct. 30 sec, a minute max of idling then drive normally until your engine is well warmed up.
the morons who idle for 10-15 minutes every morning are putting more stress on their engines than you are.
>>
>>28055875
I wait probably a minute or two before trying to set off. Mostly since the first thing I do is start my truck, then I get all my shit situated, belt, phone, music, other shit. I think the most important thing is to be sure oil has gotten enough time to start flowing around the engine. After that drive gently until the temp gauge comes up to the low range of the normal operating range. Modern oil is so thin that unless it's very cold outside, it will start flowing at startup with the pump. Giving it a minute or two to coat everything can't hurt.
>>
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what does this spark plug tell you?
>>
>>28055916
That was my first idea, but I can't find the flash ROM anywhere
>>
>>28054774
>>28055253
5000 km intervals seems rather excessive for me. i feel like 10k is the sweet spot. of course you go for earlier changes if you're thrashing your engine, but for a grocery getter or daily commuter 10k is fine. 15k is stupid though
>>
>>28056365
10k is not the sweet spot of anything. After that much running in a turbo4 with only 4.5 quarts of oil in the pan, the shits gonna get pitch black and tainted with fuel. The chain guides will certainly fall apart if neglected like that. They tell you 10k intervals specifically to speed up you buying another car.
>>
>>28056428
10k km. aka 6k miles
>>
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I am thinking of building an oil injector for an old 2 stroke. It used to have one but I lost a vital part and parts are hard to get. Does this look like a decent rig to you guys? It is 70cc so I don't think I need a crazy flow.
>>
>>28053645
What do I really need to do to my carb(s) to make a blow-through setup, except swapping the float to that black foam and using a boost-referenced fuel pressure regulator?
Im using 2 really old carbs on 2 separate collectors(1 carb for 2 cylinders) so I assume that I don't need to drill/install bigger jets
>>
>>28055875

my truck runs in open loop until it reaches a certain temp. sucks to drive, as it is a fixed fuel map, and the engine does not adjust timing dynamically. only takes about 2 minutes to warm up till the idle drops, and the engine coolant temp sensor is sending the right data to the ecu. ill start driving at this point. won't get on it though until the oil pressure starts to drop, which is indicative of the engine reaching it's usual temperature. just not good for the old boy.
>>
>>28053652
do not do this
>>
>>28053818
of all the parts to try to cheap out on.....
no.
no they are not
>>
>>28055999
look harder
>>
>>28054774
>I 've read in /o/ that you should change oil more frequently in general
you can do ~8k is km
just keep an eye on your oil levels

>What exactly does that mean though? I try not to exceed 2k rpm or go with more than 90kmh when the engine is cold and of course I don't floor it. Am I doing this right?
he's talkign about the engine/turboe specifically, try not to give it high boost/high rpm till its warmed up
the overall speed of the car really shouldnt matter

>>After a long drive let the engine idle for 10-15 seconds so the turbo can cool down before you turn the engine off.
personally, I dont think it will do much, unless the fans are on throwing air over the intertcooler/rad
you might be better off turning on your AC, so the front fans kick on for sure, then waiting a bit.
it is truly babying it at this point.

>Still do it though I just think I look like a retard just sitting in the car with the engine on.
that doesnt make sense. you're doign that all the time while you're driving.
if people have a problem wiht you sitting in your car, thats their problem and they can fuck off.
really though, nobody cares unless you're being a hindrance or something.

>When does the turbo kick in.
you don't have an OEM boost gauge?
look into getting an aftermarket one then
honestly its what the ecm is tuned for (your vehicle user manual may give you more specifics about rpm range)

>K14.jpg
in the off chance it is a suzuki, you can get more info in suzuki specific forums too
https://www.suzuki-forums.com/forums/
>>
>>28055985
its old? potentially gapped too close?
>>
should I even bother with all season tires if I live in southern california? summer tires are still good when it rains, right?
>>
Is it normal for my car engine to feel sort of warm after 2 hours of not driving? Its like 60 degrees ambient temperature here, car temp was normal (~200) while driving, and it was a pretty long drive... Even 6 hours later I feel that it's slightly warmer than ambient temperature.
>>
>>28058291
If it’s not overheating when you’re driving I don’t see why it would matter.
>>
>>28058313
I wonder if the displayed reading is coolant that isn't flowing properly though, and that the car feels hot because it is in fact overheating... But again, it does get to 190-200, and i doubt if it werent flowing properly that it would get that hot.
>>
>>28054142
Better than B-spec
>>
>>28055875
>>28055948
optimal oil pressure is reached within seconds. just look at the oil pressure light when you cold start the car and how quickly it turns off.
unless it's near or below freezing, it's perfectly fine to just drive it like a grandpa for 10-15 mins (longer if in freezing temps, probably 20 or even 30 mins if you want to be extra cautious) before being able to larp as your favourite f1 driver with the car.
>>
>>28058291
Big iron blocks hold heat for awhile. That’s why animals will try to burrow in there in the winter.

>>28057735
Some summer tires are shitty when it rains, and they start to get rock hard and lose grip on nights when it gets below 50. You can look at the tread and have a guess on the rain capabilities and decide if you want to go that route. Also so many of the tire websites have tons of reviews and testing so it’s easy to do research these days.
>>
tell me how dumb it is to supercharge an old high milage but otherwise reliable engine with low boost (ford 5.4)
>inb4 >5.4 >reliable
not my first choice but it cost me almost nothing and has required almost nothing for years now.
>>
Is there a reasonable way to testdrive an e46/92? I want to see if the "tactile steering" meme is something worth buying into, since I'm eyeing an f22 M240i. Would I have to find someone selling theirs used and ask for a test-drive? Would they let me go hard?
>>
>thank you Ford, very cool
Thinking about tossing some 20" steel RTs from Costco on the 2024 STX short of negligible worsening of fuel economy what am I in for?
>>
>evap (very small leak) code thrown
>pcv regulator code thrown
It's the N80 purge valve, isn't it?
>>
I have an 08 f150 crewcab for hauling our camper and general mountain fuckery with my boys. I spent 3500 fixing some weird shit where it idled HARD after hauling. I got it for about 7k a year ago. I could probably sell it for a lot more now , but I wanna keep it til it falls apart. Should I spend money fixing up other things? Like surface rust underneath, those wishbone shaped bars that are on the front (the ball joint looks dry and flaky), etc? If I were to switch out the OEM rims for fancier, bigger ones that still had the proper towing capacity, do I need to do anything to the car to make up for the larger diameter/tire width,whatever? I'm a complete retard when it comes to everything car related except for oil changes and normal maintenance (I use synthetic 15w30) and want this thing to last as long as possible
>>
Has anyone here rebuilt/resealed a steering rack?
Mine just failed catastrophically and i need to figure out if it is feasible to rebuild it or if i should buy a remanufactured unit and replace it.
>>
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>>28053645
Why don't cars have DRL tail lights yet?
Seems kind of an obvious feature since so many people mistake front DRLs for dipped beam
>>
>>28059352
>>evap (very small leak) code thrown
>>pcv regulator code thrown
>It's the N80 purge valve, isn't it?
Almost definitely. I changed the breather valve in my mom's F48 after the same code and a rough idle/stall after fueling, and it resolved everything. It's a junk Bosch part that's prone to failure but fortunately cheap and easy to replace.
>>
>>28060721
Wouldn't that just be park lights?
>>
>>28061178
Yeah, but a surprising amount of retards forget to turn them on too
>>
Do you guys ever get like 80% of the way through a project and just kinda give up? Feels like I've lost all motivation to finish a project I started like 6 months ago. Its nearly done, just a few more big purchases on it (probably $400 left) before its 99% done.

Probably a personal motivation issue, but surely there are others that start on a major project, then just never finish it based on all the unfinished projects surrounding /o/ related hobbies.
>>
>>28061238
>Probably a personal motivation issue
it is. you have a mental block about it somehow.
try and think about it and break it down to simpler reasons, then destroy them. if you can't... ignore them, label the irrelevant, or even just trivialize them
>>
>>28053645
What is the name for lines cut into a wheel where the tire sits, done to prevent the wheel from spinning inside the tire. An alternative to bead locks or something. It's seems uncommon but smart on high HP wheels.
>>
How old is too old for new tires? I bought a set of new tires from a guy on Craigslist. They still have the stickers and paint and everything on them, they look like they just came from a tire shop. He said he bought them the wrong size, and they sat in his garage. Date on them is late 2018. I don’t see any obvious visual defects, and they’ve clearly never been mounted and were stored in a garage with no UV light.
I’m weary to get the mounted, just solely from the manufacturer date but I can’t find anything wrong with them. I got them for a steal too, so if it’s sketchy, I’ll just shitcan them and buy new ones.
>>
>>28061896
Knurling.
>>
So I have a 2003 grand marquis with 130k miles, when I bought the car it had a very soft brake pedal and the brakes didn't kick in until the very bottom of pedal travel. I replaced all pads and rotors and brake fluid flush, and the pedal became much more firmer and had linear braking power. However in the next month of driving the pedal gradually became much more softer and spongy feeling and now feels the exact same way it did before any brake work. The stopping power is still good, there's just a lot of travel in the pedal until the car actually starts braking. Ive checked for leaks but everything is dry and brake fluid is perfectly full. Ive also tried to pump the pedal and it makes no difference. Ive narrowed it down to either air in the brake lines, or from what the panther forums say, the master cylinder might be bypassing fluid. Seems to be a pretty common issue on panther, does anyone have any insight on this?
>>
>>28062297
sounds like a worn out MC desu
>>
>>28061896
>>28062164
this. bead seat knurling
>>
>>28062133
if they not dry rotted, after inspecting them, I'd run em.
think about it, they are 6 year old tires that have been in a decent environment for 6 years.
compared to running them on a car for 6 years but they are still in decent shape.
>>
Is there any way to determine if my idle air control valve is a stepper motor or a normal motor with some feedback mechanism? It has a 4 pin plug on it and im going to check the shop manual, but i don't know if it'll specify.
>>
Why are Ferrari and McLaren making 120 degree V6s instead of just going full Boxer?
>>
are fcs quick struts any good?
>>
What is the difference between a chink shitty car stereo and a brand name stereo? Would the chink one sound worse or something?
>>
>>28062792
looking up the specific vehicle, part
> It has a 4 pin plug on it and im going to check the shop manual
yeah that will be good.
>4 wires
from what I read online, I'm going to assume its a stepper motor IACV, controlled via PCM with PWM
>>
>>28063189
they aren't even at a 180 degree V6, why would they just to flat?
>>
>>28063582
essentially, the company standing behind the brand/product, consumer rights
you buy some chinese brand you've never heard of before off fleabay and it shits out after month, good luck getting a refund or replacement.
technically other companies can be scummy pieces of shit like that, but they have governments and other organizations they have to answer to. a reputation, company image to uphold, etc etc etc

>Would the chink one sound worse or something?
I wouldnt doubt it.
>>
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How do I get used to driving a big car?
My old car was a golf R but now I have a suv. I live in the UK so a lot of roads are very narrow I find myself constantly worrying if the car will fit somewhere or if I’ll scratch/scrape.
I guess the answer is just to keep driving and it’ll come? But then I think about all the idiots I see driving a big car who don’t know it’s size, they can’t all be new to it?
>>
>>28063546
The only time I've used them they were clunking pretty bad within a year. So in my experience no
>>
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What's a fair asking price for 19" aluminum knockoff accord rims? I'm asking for 400 for a set of 4 because one is cracked
>>
>>28056439
It would look better upside down.
>>
if you replaced the transmission in your car with one that had longer ratios, but then also replaced your diff gears with a shorter ratio set and hypothetically the overall ratios (tranny ratio times axle ratio) ended up being practically the same (say 5% or less) for all gears, you wouldn't gain or lose any performance correct? it would just be more or less exactly the same?
>>
>>28063582
Shitty amps putting out poor quality sound, annoying UI and often terrible radio reception if you care about that stuff. If you're buying a car specific one, chances are that the wiring is also a gigantic fucking spaghetti harness that is just nightmarishly annoying to stuff behind the dash.
>>
>>28063679
>they can’t all be new to it?
some people genuinely do not have the level of spatial awareness that others have. what might be simple to understand for you may be completely alien to them.
>>
>>28063972
Pretty much, yeah. Unless you make HUGE differences to either ratios, the performance gain or loss is arguably negligible outside of a competition setting.
>>
>>28063881
>3 rims you can actually use
>$400
Especially if there’s no tires, you might be sitting on them forever until somebody offers you scrap value.
>>
>>28063881
i can go to a pick n pull and get a set of real volvo wheels with tires for $250.
your shits fucked nigga.
>>
>>28054142
A-Spec is the best line of vehicles available in the Gran Turismo racing sim untl the introduction of the S-Spec class. A-Spec are usually supercars or racecars, B-Spec is more akin to sporty road cars, whereas C-Spec are normal, daily cars.
>>
How much is it generally for PPF on new paint? No shops would give me a quote until they looked at it. I told them it is brand new paint and I am not gonna trailer it around town just to get quotes...
>>
>>28060951
Not experiencing any rough idle though... at least not rougher than normal, I do have worn engine mounts, so maybe I'm just not noticing it.

I changed the gas cap, cleared the code, and the light hasn't come back after 5 drive cycles. Still not sure if I'm in the clear. I read somewhere that the gas level needs to be somewhat depleted for the car to run that check, and I did refuel recently.

Is this one of those things where the code and CEL will clear itself if the problem is truly fixed, or do I need to clear it myself and watch if it comes back after X drive cycles? Never done any CEL diagnosis beyond changing a gas cap before (in my previous car for another evap code, funnily enough; worked for that).
>>
>>28064509
>>
>>28064509
not sure what happened there but that was supposed to say thanks
>>
I bought a new car with Alenza all season tires:
https://www.bridgestonetire.com/tire/alenza-as-ultra/275-45R20/
I want a better tire with severe weather / M+S rating. Any recommendations? I don't really care about price. I live in an area with snow for ~6 months of the year and some hills and it's an AWD vehicle



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