>For Classics made from 1979 or older, with few exceptions.>Everybody has their own taste, but some tastes are wrong. If you aren't sure if your car is classic or not, it's not.>Your Honda Miata doesn't belong here.>US, Euro, Jap, or whatever.>Post your classic, your work on it, your hackery, and get advice.>Any and all discussion about classics welcome, but may not necessarily generate responses; don't get butthurt.>Period correct performance > cosmetics.>Metal > plastic.>Classic shitbox > modern shitbox.>JBweld and RTV can fix anything>If you see rust there is more.>Rust and bodywork are the most difficult thing to repair.>Electrical work is difficult until you stop reading forum posts and buy a multi-meter.>Low oil pressure? Worn mains and rod bearings. Use Lucas and 15W40 until you afford a rebuild.>Do NOT buy a classic and plan to pay someone to work on it. You need to be able to do 90% or more of the work or you will go broke.>You will spend twice your budget, unless you have years of experience. If the salty old hands agree, it's true.>If you can't tune a carb you might literally be retarded>Nothing is as easy as it seemsprevious>>28874862
Just like.prom night
the junkyard had a 91 Volvo 240 wagon, so I own it now
How much did you guys spend on rust restoration and paint? Body on frame. Surface level rust nothing too crazy.
>>28899159Too much. I don't care. It's impossible to make money on flipping theses cars unless you're lying and scamming.Better love the car you're sinking money in to.
>>28899174What's the number. I don't even have a sense to scale it
>>28899182$200 on rattlecans and $5k+ on rust repairs and removal.
>>28899145Glass is worth more than you paid for it.
>>28899145Nice
>>28899159>spend on rust restorationHahaJokes on you faggots.Ive been doing soul-draining sheetmetal work since high school but the shrinker/stretcher are my friends and I'm rust free and all i had to do is eat my sandwich on lunch break at the bender.>post picsDont have anything current and my shit is so seamless that you cant tell where OEM ends and I begin if I were to post a pic.But im broken physically and mentally from repetitive menial tasks so stop smoking weed and get a real job, dumbfuck.
>>28899242Hopefully it works out for you bro
>>28899174This is why car lots sell loans not cars. Walk around with a stack of cash and they won't even talk to you. I can flip 1-2 cars a year. Toyota cult horse shit that niggers will inexplicably spend 5000+ dollars on that you should be picking up for less than 1500.
>>28899253Just kill me.Or give me $75k for my flawless generic mustang and let me go out in style in vegas from snorting cocaine off the ass of an "18" yearold asian in the balcony jacuzzi of the Palms casino.
>>28899242Good for you anon, that's a dope skill to know. I have a 1994 Cadillac fleetwood that I adore, I want to either aquire a super clean one or just restore the one I have but I dunno how much money I should save up to get it done.
>>28899145very nice. More details!>>28899274sup Tony?
>>28899318I'm the guy who bought the Imperial convertible. That's the vibe I get with that car, driving around with my wife, though the buckets are less conducive for bending a woman over than the back seat of my '66 LeBaron. Go out in style.
>>28899274Image taken in bikini bottom
>>28899132me and ur mum had a good time back then.
>>28899330Desperately needs a timing belt, someone put tap water and green coolant in it so I'm flushing the rajj rapids out of it. Won't shift into 4th and already has the lockout solenoid delete, allegedly the accumulator piston gets stuck from sitting and driving it a lot will eventually free it up(?) probably will take shop air to it. Speedometer gear already ordered. It will try to stall going into park but not drive/reverse and cold start is fine, might check base timing but I know jetronic can be weird with that
>>28899085ty, OP, for making me want a '67 or '68 Cougar now.
For my headlight relay harness, not sure which one I should go with for the high beams:Option A>10 AWG wire split into 2x 12 AWG going into each headlight connectorOption B>2x 12 AWG wires from each 87 terminal on the relay going into their respective side's headlight connectorOption A would just have one big fat 10 AWG wire going across the grille to the left side headlights, and another, shorter run of 10 AWG wire going to the right. Seems like it'd be less wiring and probably cheaper, but then each side's headlights are only powered by one wire.Option B would have four 12 AWG wires in total, two coming out from each 87 terminal. The car is almost two metres wide so I'd need a lot of wiring, but if there was a problem with one wire, it'd only affect a single headlight. The other issue I see is that with the terminals I have, crimping two 12 gauge wires into a single quick disconnect that I have looks like it'd be very hard to achieve as the terminals are sized for 12-10 gauge wires.Didn't include grounds as I've already decided how to wire those up.
>>28900229Minimal # of wires.There is no need to run a pair of wires that are doing the same job.
>>28900229Assuming you already have all this wire and don't have to go buy it, I'd go with option A, but If you *don't* already have it to hand, I have to ask why you'd want to use 12awg for each individual light? A single halogen bulb will likely draw only around 5 or so constant amps, so 12awg is pretty overkill for that application. Most factory stuff I've seen is roughly 16awg, so even if you wanted to play it safe, you could still probably drop to 14awg and still be well up to the task. There's obviously no harm in going too thick, but thick wiring *is* kind of a hassle to work with, and there's also a slight increase in cost.
>>28900268>>28900297good points...>why you'd want to use 12awg for each individual light?I might've just been overthinking it. I have a tendency to want to over-build electrical stuff. I also thought a smaller wire would create more resistance which would decrease light output.At least for the high beams I thought it'd be funny if I could get the high beam-only sockets to be able to run 100W aircraft landing lights. Was thinking maybe I could even push it to 150W ones but that's going into 10 gauge territory.If going 14-12 gauge isn't going to reduce light output then I'll settle for that.
>>28900224my coworker has one that he wants to sell me it's 1970 and it has the 351Cneeds a transmission and heater core tho
>>28900306>get the high beam-only sockets to be able to run 100W aircraft landing lights
>>28900350fucking kek
>>28900350top lolswell i finally found a local supplier of QD terminals that can actually take 10 gauge wire...huzzah! I'll still have to order the bits of 12 and 10 gauge wire in, only because the remaining ones I have are conveniently just too short to be of use here. But at least that means I can colour code shit properly now. Orange/yellow for high, red for low, black for ground.The wiring from the power feed bus bar > blade fuses > relays are going to have to be 14 gauge at most though, I just cannot find any crimp terminals that can take >12 gauge wiring. But it should be fine right? Since it's such a short run of wire (no more than 100 mm) that shouldn't be an issue should it? I was thinking it'd act like a fusible link of sorts, since whatever wire you've got you +4 to the number to get the gauge of the fusible link.
Got the radiator brazed and recored, but now the transmission cooler lines have a pinhole leak. Nothing some NiCopp replacements can't correct. I'll be driving this thing soon...
>>28900574that heater tap...is it just set to continuously run through the core?
>>28900597The valve is broken, so it's bypassed. The cable to the valve is also broken. The entire HVAC system needs an overhaul. I am going to have to spend well over $10k on this truck to have it how I want it.
>>28900574>those power steering lines
That explains the oil leakAlso all I need to remove the THERMACTOR AIR INJECTION REACTION SYSTEM is to plug the holes in the back of the heads when I give this thing a "haircut" right
>>28901567Hilarious seal.Yes you can pull the air injection manifold and just run bolts in. Coat with antiseize (works as high temp thread sealant).
Is a tcase chain a "while you're in there" or a "don't bother unless it's giving you problems"?
>>28902054fuck niggers?
>>28902054Chains are extremely long lived because they only experience wear when in 4x4 mode. While in 2wd they just sit in a static position (dont rotate).99% of trucks are only shifted into 4wd every year or two (at best) for an hour while they drive up to the ski lodge or campsite.If it is a city truck, dont botherIf its a forest service truck bought at auction, change it.
>>28902535It's a full time AWD/part time 4WD case (NP249) so the chain is always in use. I have to replace the viscous coupler, I was wondering if I should spend the extra $200 for a chain or if it's not really a concern. It's got 280,000 miles and I'm sure it's never been opened before.
>>28902683>280,000 miles on an awd chain.Yes.Replace it.Maybe its fine.Maybe it will last another 280,000 miles.But 200 bucks is the price of another seal kit and fluid if you decide to change it later. And thats if a chain failure doesnt cause a catastrophic failure that takes out other parts.Further ahead financially to do it now and piece of mind is priceless.
Progress on our friend's V8 Pilot has currently stalled, so I decided to switch over to *our* V8 pilot and get a few bits done to that while I had the time. The car has always run too cool when on the move, around 45 or 50c on the left bank and 55 to 60c on the right bank, but when stationary it would slowly keep creeping up until it boiled over, so we've basically been working with the worst of both worlds. Initially I thought the car just didn't have any thermostats to speak of, but nestled within the upper radiator hoses were the items in question, so they either they weren't seating properly against the hose and were letting water past, or they were just opening too early - either way, we've bought a couple new thermostats with a proper tapered frame that sits flush against the neck of the head and seals nicely against the also new radiator hoses.
I also took this time to install a coolant temp switch for the electric fan I fitted a couple months ago. Up until now I've had it on a manual switch under the dash, and constantly keeping an eye on temps in traffic and manually switching it on and off was getting a little annoying. I tried to hide it as best as I could by positioning it towards the intake and placing the "Syncol" plates over the top, and I also managed to feed the wires through the spark plugs tubes which keeps things fairly tidy, but I'm still not a fan of that anodised aluminum block. Oh well.
Wiring was easier than I thought, but because I had the fan directly wired up to the switch without a relay, I still had a little bit of working out to do. Luckily I kept the relay after I removed the electric fan setup from my Vanden Plas, so I was able to avoid buying one. Relay freshly repurposed and wire routing duly sorted, and all is looking pretty okay. Tucked everything up under the dash so it doesn't look out of place, and now all I'm waiting on is the coolant to be delivered, and then I can test to see if everything works as intended. Eventually I'd like to rewire the car to take advantage of the fuse box, as the only fused part of the car currently is the headlights, but that's a job for future me.
>>28902902I've also just noticed that I inadvertently colour matched the wiring to the fuses... That's oddly satisfying.
>>28902902man...who the fuck thought exposed fuse elements were a good idea? i know ATO fuses are still exposed to atmosphere, but they're still largely protected by the plastic around them.
>>28902728Good point, thanks.
>>28903094TBF there's a cover that goes over the top, I just hadn't put it back on yet. Oh, and for what it's worth, anyone who's thinking about getting a "Continental" style fuse box like pic rel should avoid doing so, they're awkward and kind of shit.
>>28903112o ritei got some flexfuse adapters for my glass fuse box so they can now take blade fuses. works great, not cheap though but the build quality is great for what they are, doesn't feel flimsy or anything.
what should I do about a badly pitted windshield? 1985 Grand Marquis. I checked Safelite and it seems like they might actually be able to replace it. Is that the best option?
>>28903339Just scrap that piece of shit, that’s not even a classic it’s just an old nigger car
>>28903339yeah i just got my '91 windshield replaced recently while i was redoing the vinyl top. go for it.
>>28903365sounds good to me. What was replacing the top like? I need to do mine, but I am so busy with work I fear I may never have enough time anytime soon to do it myself properly. Did you do it yourself or did you get it done professionally?
>>28903366it was a massive pain in the ass getting it off. just awful. took forever. i had also removed the headliner to get it reupholstered so i was able to take the trim band the divdes the roof by removing the nuts from the inside. trim around the doors is either held in with screws or just snaps in the seams. trim around the back glass also just snaps in with clips. be careful with the trim along the bottom of the back glass, the shitt plastic round keepers break easily and are unobtainable. they slide off horizontally from pins in the sheetmetal. also the trim on the bottom of the c pillar sucks to remove. i ended up just jb welding them back on, the keepers or whatever just got destroyed when i removed them. gluing the vinyl top back on was easy, especially with a buddy. i just used youtube for reference. but yeah if i had to do it again i would just do a slicktop conversion and bondo the seams/ weld up trim holes and repaint.
>>28903370I actually want and prefer the vinyl top but I am really dreading doing that job kekI might see if I can just pay someone to do it, inb4 wrenchlet, that kind of bullshit might not be worth my life force being drained
>>28903375At first i wanted to convert the half vinyl top into full vinyl top, but the people i ordered the precut top from didnt offer it. although "precut" i still had to trim about a foot off around the edge. I hear its a better deal to just buy vinyl fabric by itself and just cut it yourself.
>>28902683>go to buy parts for it>realize there was a significant change between 95 and 96 and it's important to get the right kit>trugg is a MY96>tcase was manufactured in December 95>I've confirmed that all of the "tricks" people mention for distinguishing the early and late models from the tag are bullshit>it's my work vehicle and I don't have another running car nowWell shit, I guess it's time to get my '76 Alfa running so I can drive that while I take this tcase apart to see what's inside. What are the odds it goes 220 miles a day for two weeks without catching on fire?
Qjet update.The teflon sheet bushing idea that I heard from an anon here and fromhttp://rmcavoy.freeshell.org/Q_Jet_bushings.htmlSeems to have worked very well.It took all the play out of the shaft and rotates smoothly.obviously it's not as good as the brass bushings mod, but I'm scared to drill out the carb myself. I don't have a press or anything.
>>28903623is this a problem with all carbs or just qjets? wondering if i'll have to deal with this some time later. it's a new edelbrock carb though. but i did put a second return spring so it's applying much more force to it too.in unrelated news seems like the door latch mechanism that wouldn't close properly, just needed some greasing. had to use lithium spray grease, not ideal but it was the only thing that could get in there. nice to have the door consistently lock now.
>>28903647Honestly no idea, I'm new to working on car carbs in general.On the plus side, it's easy to test for. Just spray ether/carb cleaner by the shaft and see if there's an rpm change, or if you can physically wiggle the shaft.
>>28903647If you have a steel shaft through an aluminum casting without a bronze bushing between them, you will also have a wallowed out throttle shaft bore eventually. If the casting is stepped as shown in his link you can do the Teflon sheet method, otherwise you'll have to ream it out for a bronze bushing.
>>28903653nta, but I am >>28903623 I will say that I believe the Qjet changed how the "steps" in the Qjet shaft work so for example the passenger shaft worked perfect with the teflon sheet bushing.But the driver side's shaft was different so I used a thinner teflon bushing, using the actual stuff on the end of the shaft to keep it in the hole.Anyways it does work. If you are a poor bitch like myself, and don't mind waiting 2 weeks for chinese teflon sheets, it works.
