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It's been almost a year since the last climbing thread on /out/ died. The thread on /xs/ is overwhelmingly focused on gym climbing, so I'm making this attempt to revive the general. Help out by sharing trip reports, photos, advice, etc.

A place to talk about outdoor climbing in any aspect (trad, sport, bouldering, aid, alpine, etc).

Rock Climbing is a dangerous sport that can cause loss of life, limb, eyesight, or sanity.

Off-belay:
https://archived.moe/out/thread/2610900
https://archived.moe/out/thread/2537031
https://archived.moe/out/thread/2495558

/xs/ thread:
>>>/xs/196297

Adam Ondra sends world's hardest trad route Bon Voyage: https://youtu.be/ji4At78H5Ys
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Mountain Project is a great resource for outdoor climbing

>climbing areas near you
https://www.mountainproject.com/map/

>regional forums
https://www.mountainproject.com/forum

>used climbing gear
https://www.mountainproject.com/forum/103989416/for-sale-for-free-want-to-buy
>>
Sup /out/. What do you think of the comparative efficacy of using a single-rope technique versus a half-rope technique in multi-pitch trad climbing, particularly in terms of mitigating rope drag and potential shearing in routes with significant traverses or zigzagging pitch layouts?
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Is bouldering on basalt really hard everywhere, or is it just me?
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>>2728674
I've never used them personally so can't give any advice. I know people do it successfully but rope management seems like it would be a nightmare.

>>2728819
This has also been my experience, but I've never tried bouldering on pillow basalt. I bet that would feel great.
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>>2728674
Single rope is great due to less rope to manage, which is always fantastic. Double rope systems work great for wandery routes and routes with some long raps. I’d choose single rope over double ropes almost every time, but that doesn’t meant half ropes aren’t useful as fuck in certain applications. I see gritstone Brit’s rocking two ropes all the time. Definitely reduces drag a ton. Another good resource is this: https://people.bath.ac.uk/dac33/high/

Romped up the original route of Mescalito in red rock the other week and sport climbed in a limestone cave off the 93 last weekend. Feeling pretty good since a grade 3 AC separation in January. Looking forward to some time in Yosemite soon and trying my first real deal big wall. Any summer plans ya dirtbags?
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>>2729451
>Looking forward to some time in Yosemite
Have you been there before? If yes, how busy is it and do you have to wait to climb or is there enough climbs that you don't have to if you hike further?
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>>2729525
Yes, it’s busy enough but I haven’t done many routes there. I’ve done more in Tuolumne than in the valley. Just go and get on shit who gives a fuck if you get skunked or not. Sack up and simul those pitches or wait.

Also there’s plenty of climbs
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>>2729451
Awesome man. Which cave is that? Sounds like hard climbing.

>first real deal big wall
Hell yeah. A dream very few will ever achieve... big walling still feels out-of-reach for me.

>summer plans
I'm hoping to do Exum Ridge with my brother. I'll have to get in better shape first just to keep up with the hiking. Also eyeing a guided ascent on Elephant's Perch.
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>>2728649
It's not really a technical climb, but have any of you guys done Huntington Ravine? I wanna do it this summer but I'm not sure it's a good idea to do it solo and I'd also like to work on my 48.
https://sectionhiker.com/great-hikes-mt-washington-and-the-huntington-ravine-trail/
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>>2729844
I haven't done the trail. From your link and from the summitpost page it looks like it would be very safe in good weather.
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>>2729833
X-Cave. Cool routes out there and permadrawed so you can just slap your way up some overhung 12’s with no repercussions on your gear.

>elephants perch
The sawtooths are fucking beautiful man. A buddy and I tried to do finger of fate (post-earthquake) but the sawtooths got hit with a late season snowstorm so the approach was way snowy and we weren’t exactly ready for that. Didn’t even make it to the base but had a fun day getting lost around Hell Roaring Lake and napping on the shoreline. Pretty glad we didn’t make it actually as I’d be leading the whole show and my partner was more inexperienced than I had remembered. Probably got ourselves out of trouble inadvertently and still has me wanting to go back. We went and checked out Elephants Perch the next day and took the boat ride. Hope you send!!! I’d love to go back and try the perch and FoF. Have you been to City of Rocks yet? I’d also like to go check that out. Looks like a good time. Exum seems cool too — haven’t been to the Tetons either. Been mostly in Vegas climbing Red Rocks with some forays into the eastside Sierras and Tahoe over the last few years. College and workin’

Pic is “Isolation Canyon” in the middle of Arizona
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>>2728674
as far as i know you are never supposed to climb trad with single rope, main reason being that you don't have bolts. cams are less reliable so you want to have 2 separate ropes with separate cams. as i write this i feel less confident that this is the correct reasoning though

another benefit of 2 half/twin ropes over a single rope is that you have a bigger total amount of rope available for rappels, or if you need to bail (one single 80m rope vs 2x60m half ropes for example). another minor benefit is weight management, each person can carry one of the 2 lighter half ropes
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>>2730136
It's a good story. Sounds like it worked out for the best. I'm in Boise so I climb at City of Rocks every chance I get. It's everything it's cracked up to be, imo. I was there last weekend with some friends from the gym. We camped out in the snow and I brought my friend up his first multi-pitch. It's a 5.8 but the last pitch either traverses hard left into another 5.8 route or goes straight up into a 5.10c mixed trad/sport pitch to the top. I didn't read the route description closely enough and we almost had a real adventure... fortunately we noticed something was off after a few bolts and I was able to down climb.

I highly recommend the City. Feel free to hit me up if you ever find yourself out this way and need a partner. I'm definitely jealous of your location though... spent a week in Vegas recently and the sandstone is so good. Probably the best climbing of my life.

>>2730152
I think the point that you were aiming for is that with twin ropes the force of a fall will be often be distributed between two pieces, instead of everything on the top piece. This is more important for cams than bolts.
>>
I've never really been into climbing but want to start. My local rock climbing gym closed a few months back. What's a good way to get into and learn the sport without a gym?
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>>2728819
The basalt I've climbed has been the slipperiest crap rock I've ever had the displeasure of touching. Least favorite rock type hands down
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>>2730200
>I'm in Boise so I climb at City of Rocks every chance I get. It's everything it's cracked up to be, imo.
How 2 get into climbing?

Im in boise too (caldwell actually) but i want to learn how to climb. So far everything i've done is nontechnical
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>>2730897
I'm heading to Cape Disappointment this weekend to climb on the sea stacks (pic related). They're pillow basalt that formed underwater and have excellent climbing. Some of my favorite rock for sure. Vantage is columnar but has some good stuff... The Feathers in particular are awesome. I believe French's Dome in OR is a volcanic neck and that's pretty fun. There are many different types of basalt. I'll agree that most of it sucks though.

>>2730898
Most people will just meet a more experienced climber who shows them the ropes. Another option is the Gym to Crag course offered by The Commons climbing gym. This would also be a good way to meet other climbers. Lastly you could self-educate with YouTube videos, buy the gear you think you'll need, and convince your brother to belay you at the local crag. I wouldn't really recommend this.

If you want, I'm happy to meet up at The Commons sometime. This is a good place to learn because we can practice mock leading and lead belaying on the auto belays. Or we could go to the Black Cliffs and dive right in if that's more your style. I'm 29 and a very normal person. Discord 3rdOrder#8224.
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>>2730767
See if there are any guided climbing courses in your area. These are great ways to learn. Or try the last option in this post >>2730903: Self-educate and convince someone to belay you. Pray for survival.
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It's my first year of climbing outdoors and it started with winter in minnesota and the up. So far, It has been a struggle to get somebody to come out with me so I took up TRS with a grigri and basic ascender on a single strand. I picked up a copy of andy kirkpatricks book about the subject to hone is some more and am probably gonna move to using a trango vergo and a microascender, microtraxion if i can get a good deal or a ropeman 4. Any of you have some specific setups or TRS wisdom you can pass down?
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I don't have any advice for you at all but I also climb in MN. What places did you hit so far?
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>>2731401
Sandstone and winona for the ice fest it was throwing. Very cool area. I saw that a new amtrak line is going through winona so I will be spending some time over there again for the winter
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>>2730903
>I'm heading to Cape Disappointment this weekend to climb on the sea stacks
Didn't see anyone out there today, i'm wondering if i could drop a line down from this cliff at Waikiki and TR it
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>>2731489
Haha what's up you must have just missed me. I came through with the family around 2pm. They toproped the 5.9 and then I got a lot of fall practice on my project. Is that the cliff way out right by the water?
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>>2731580
Yeah I got there around 12 just to scope it out since I didn't have a belayer and also to enjoy the beach. I wanted to climb the 5.5 magma slab but it was covered in kelp and barnacles at the start but I did get a good look at the anchor thats up there. That cliff is about a 5 min drive south of your picture
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>>2728649
I can almost palpably get a sense of what it feels like for both feet to give out under me and then the sound of my chin smashing a hard, dense surface. I would hold my sore hands (from holding them to the harsh rock face as I slid) to my battered face and take some deep breaths while feeling very much in my mid-30s, and I would decide that it was a fun thing to try. I would check my teeth in the relfection of my phone screen.

The iron smell in my nose (the type you get from internal facial trauma) would be sharp in my onstrils as I went back to the car.

I am noit a rock-climber, but I can imagine myself being one for a few hours.
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>>2728674
I tried half ropes on a meandering slab and it doubled the rope drag. I'm guessing that's why American trad is mostly on singles, because we have the slabs.
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>>2731765
Ah yeah I've done that one. I'm no hardman but it's a pretty easy solo when it's dry; not even 5.5.

I've never been to Waikiki with a rope but I've always wanted to. That anchor looks simultaneously bomber and sketch as fuck.
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Recently recleaned this near-forgotten problem to project. Super-nice rock, over the bulge with no real holds, just friction.
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Fuck yeah, climbing general, it's been too long.

So far this season at the Gunks has been great. Been pushing grades way beyond what I'd hoped for and having a ton of fun cruising up routes that were a challenge just a couple years ago.
Looking forward to ticking off all the classic 5.8-5.9's and testing myself on the 10's where it really starts to get interesting.
Any NE anons want to get after it hit me up.
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>>2732859
That's awesome man. Post some pictures! I've found that I'm actually climbing weaker than I was a couple of years ago. Not a huge surprise since life has been kicking my ass recently, but still disappointing. I'm gonna have to get back on the hangboard.
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>>2731580
bump
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>>2732207
Those horizontal cracks look pretty nice. The photo reminds me of this boulder I found in Index from following mountainproject coordinates. It must not have been climbed in a while because in the pictures it was totally clean. Later I found a couple wire brushes hanging from a tree. I might give it a scrub next time I'm out there.
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Any East Anglian Climbers itt?
From what I can see God decided to leave our patch of the Isles bereft of any nice walls or boulders.
I'd like to take up rock climbing as a hobby and get /out/ more but it seems I'll have to catch a train and a bus if I ever want to actually climb something not made of plastic
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>>2733988
Pretty much stuck for outdoors climbing where you are, the closest thing would be old railway bridges.
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>>2734006
Bouldering gym it is then, the local University campus hosts a climbing club which is open to the public and does organised trips to good climbing spots, maybe I'll check in with them about belay training and the like too
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Is there a good level of fitness I should attain before I start climbing. I'm not morbidly obese or anything but I'm around 95 kilograms (down from 110) and I've been working on my cardio. But I worry my muscles will not be completely up to the task, I've started physically training in earnest again and I was wondering what a good baseline to shoot for would be.
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>>2735549
Generally if you're starting with an indoors gym you'll find they set lots of accessible routes. You might hit a cap without weightloss depending on your height/strength but that won't be for awhile and you likely won't get hurt badly if you're not a retard about it. There is lots you can practice on vertical walls ignoring that. ganbatte
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>>2735957
Arigato Claimba-senpai
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What rock types are more summer-friendly? I usually take the summers off because it's quite humid and I'm a sweaty person in general, but I might try to get out regularly this summer.
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Sent my first 11a
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>>2737792
nice dude! that rock type looks really fun to climb
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>>2737792
Sick. Looks beefy.
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I feel like this thread is me and another pnw anon, vegas anon, and the occasional international anon
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>>2739642
I think you are probably right. I remember there was a Cali anon in the old threads, and an Eastern schizo who was developing new routes, but they haven't found their way back.

Where was your video taken? That looks gigantic!
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>>2737792
Fuck yea bro. I sent my 1st 11a last year and am working on an 11b. Think I got it next go. Yours looks stout the whole way! Where at?

>>2739642
Ya lol it gets boring talking to the same 3 dopes on a rope. Need some anons who actually like going outside in here…shit post, even. 4chan sucks now for real conversation. I haven’t been climbing as much as I used to, but plan to bail Vegas for the summer and head to Yosemite once the van is done and my homies are ready to roll. I’m going fucking crazy here just working and sport climbing in shady crags. It’s even got me wanting to get a girlfriend just to break up the monotony. At least I’m gonna go train today…
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I’ve been sport climbing for a while now. Been wanting to work into multi pitch but don’t know anyone personally that could teach me and my usual climbing partner. How retarded would it be to teach ourselves? Maybe start with rappelling, get the hang of it by rappelling on top rope?
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>>2739844
one of the euroanons here, i keep forgetting to take pictures when im climbing so i just end up lurking.. i live really close to most of crags i climb at anyways so its a bit weird for me to post pics of them too
recently ive been projecting a 7a+ route but i keep falling at the crux, all my friends have left for the summer holiday so will probably have to continue trying closer to autumn sadly
>plan to bail Vegas for the summer and head to Yosemite once the van is done
got a similar plan but i think it will be hard to find partners for me if i do that, though im really hoping someone from my climbing club brings me along on a big wall this summer but the chance for that is really low i guess
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>>2739654
>Where was your video taken? That looks gigantic!
Wolf Rock in Oregon

>>2739844
>Yours looks stout the whole way! Where at?
Hanging Judge at Broughton Bluff, its really fun but over too soon

I'll occasionally post on the /xs/ thread but it reads more like a /fit/ thread than I'd like
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>>2739880
Not retarded. Learn to rap first, for sure. Anywhere you can set a TR you can rap. Rapping is easy but it sucks, though. Easily the worst part of multipitch. If you can find a climb with a walk-off, do that.

My first multi was in snow canyon near st. george. An amazing 5.9 5 pitch sport route (you can link it in 3 pitches though) with good anchors the whole way. Was my partners' first multipitch, too. As long as you're not retarded multipitch really isn't much different. My partner brought a pre-tied quad while I built my belays with the rope.

There's not many good, long bolted multis in america, though. Once you get a taste for it you're gonna immediately want to learn to place gear. There're 100x the multipitch trad routes as there are bolted multipitches. But even on gear, I still prefer if there are bolted anchors.
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>>2739965
Thanks for the reply. Trad is definitely the goal, multi just seems like the best next step.

I’ve actually been eyeing a Potrero Chico trip once we’re comfortable, I’ve heard it has a shit ton of sport
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hanging out at 120ft
installed a new ptz cam
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>>2739936
>Wolf Rock
That would have been my guess. I've always wanted to do it but the runouts and route finding have me spooked. I also lack any partners with sufficient experience. I assume you were on Morgul Vale? How was the crux pitch?
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>>2740051
>warming my feet by the radio transmitter
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>>2740051
is that for work?
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>>2740059
>I assume you were on Morgul Vale? How was the crux pitch?
The crux pitch wasn't that bad some of the hardware is suspect though. Climbing it in direct sun was not fun though.
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>>2740040
If you're in the southwest then head to St. George. Snow canyon has a bunch of good bolted multipitches 5.10 and under. Plus, it's gorgeous and not a fucking zoo like zion
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>>2728649
Had a near death accident last time I went climbing so i've given up on it for now.
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>>2728649
Climbing really isn't an /out/ topic anymore. You'll have better luck on /xs/.
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>>2740667
Well, tell us about it
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>>2740605
I’ve had my eye on Snow Canyon, that place looks sick. Seconding some St. George action, hit up Bluff St. for some good splitters right on the edge of town.
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>>2740677
Also how is climbing not an /out/ topic? What *is* an /out/ topic?
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>>2740677
The /xs/ threads kind of suck though. Too many egos floating around, and talking about gym climbing gets really boring.
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>>2740849
Climbing absolutely is an /out/ topic. Ignore him.
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>>2740605
I’m CO based. I believe there’s some bolted multi in the canyons in the front range. Hoping for bolted alpine stuff somewhere but I haven’t looked yet.

I did go out yesterday and rappelled for the first time on a short route. Was successful, so thank you anon for the push.
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9wdob1ZA5nU

i did my first real outdoor climb and repel last September i was pretty scared but it was a cool experience
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>>2741109
Cool but it's "rappel"
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>>2741109
>I think this is the slow side
>sets up a fast rappel
kek
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>>2741109
Homie had you all twisted up on that ATC set up and the bar tack on your prussik was in the least optimal spot!

Have you rapped since? Keep the rope straight as an arrow, no twists or turns or cross-overs (this increases friction). The bar tack on the prussik loop should be flat and ideally not wrapped around the rope (clean wraps for a clean rap). Otherwise seemed pretty run of the mill for a guys first rappel, and you didn’t die so everything worked the way it should, although with tons of friction and definitely looking like it’s your first time and your partners third or fourth lol. Nice to see a video of an anon around here!
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>>2740975
Oh shit really? I'm in the front range now too so I'm definitely gonna find summadem bolted multis this summer.

Gratz on the rapping, too. One small step for mankind, one giant leap for anon.
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Tell it to me straight, can I rock climb without any equipment? For cliffs less than 30 feet?
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>>2741109
Nice anon, also it'll work better if you have the big basket of the carabiner on the rope side and try to avoid wearing dangly things as they can get caught on a bunch of things while climbing
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>>2741270
Who's going to stop you? If you wear a helmet you're almost guaranteed to survive a 30ft fall. Either way you could be a great data point.
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>>2741451
what the fuck, how do women fall so much? link the paper pls
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>>2740849
Boots, ticks, male /fa/shion, which state is best for /out/ even though no one here actually goes outside, Teddy K, Alexander Superspeeder, van life.
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Got out to trout creek the other day
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>>2742620
Nice wall
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>>2742620
I've always thought this place looks kind of depressing but I've never been myself. How is the climbing? Looks like pure crack, unlike say Vantage.
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>>2742620
Anon that's just the Devil's Postpile.
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>>2742664
The formation is really neat to look at, the climbing is just crack, stem, and offwidth. The few face holds are godsends to sport climbers. The basalt is very textured on the inside and feels like popcorn ceiling as opposed to the almost glass like columns of Smith's lower gorge.
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bump
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>>2741115
>>2741117
>>2741198
>>2741384

Thanks it was my first time and my friend I did it with was fairly new to it I met him on the /o/ board that was in Moab and that was the first part of rappel my GoPro died but the next part was a 50 meter open air rappel down was very cool. I only ever did rock climbing in a gym a few times up until that point I haven't been out since I've been in Australia working and riding motorcycle around for fun
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Climbing with dad for father's day.

Also: I noticed on MP that somebody put up a route on Crown Point recently. 5 pitches 5.11 and fully bolted. Hopefully I can take a shot at it sometime this summer.
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>>2744773
Looking glass rock was the climb
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>>2744774
I hear that it's only good for 2 pitches and the rest is dangerous to the point that cleaning can't fix.
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>>2744828
Hmm. Thanks for the tip. Might give the first two pitches a go then.

I'm reminded of this trip report from St. Peter's Dome: https://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/topic/59025-tr-st-peters-dome-south-face-direct-426/
This along with other trip reports on the same rock have cured any interest I might have had in climbing rotten basalt.
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>>2744831
Not the first two, I think the 3rd and 5th were the only good one with every pitch having death blocks. Thanks for that link the report had me gripped lol
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>>2744774
Based graybeard climber. Absolutely peak kino. Tell him I said so.
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>>2744986
Ah okay. I will give it a miss then. Definitely want to hike up and get a good look at St. Peter's Dome sometime, although I'd never climb it. I think the area is still closed after the fire though.

>>2744991
Haha thanks. He used to be a framer and he has no fear of heights. Beacon Rock is next.
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>>2736341
Look into iontophoresis:
https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/2016/09/21/iontophoresis-part-ii/
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any of you guys ever climbed in Banff?
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I just bought some Scarpa force V's that were on clearance. They seemed to fit well so I thought what the hell. I'm going to try them out soon, has anyone tried them before? They look like a good basic trad shoe.
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>>2731308
I like the taz lov2 held up by a chest harness and backed up with a micro traxion on a short extension, it feeds straight through so there's no drag and I can quickly lower without unweighting the system and work a problem over and over.
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do you guys use suncream while climbing in the summer? i cant fucking stand the feeling of it on my skin and if i get it on my fingers then it feels like my whole climbing day is ruined, how do you guys prevent getting sunburnt on long routes?
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>>2748886
long-sleeve sunshirt and a big hat. If you're wearing a helmet then use sunscreen. Dryfeel sunscreen or whatever is pretty good. Apply it before you get to the crag.
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>>2742620
Anon, trout creek looks baller. I've heard it's up there as one of the best single pitch trad crags in america. How is the approach? The waterfall in Oak Creek is a contender for that crown but the approach sucks whale penis.
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>>2746992
Anon it's all about the foot-shoe shape fit. It can be a great shoe in all respects but if it doesn't fit your foot, it's useless. My heels did not work with the force V's but I did think they would be a comfy workhorse. I'd probably take them on sport climbs more than trad.

Honestly, LS Finales are solid trad shoes until you're doing some hard shit. When you need a resole you can upgrade to some stickier rubber and eek more performance out of them. And by the time you need a 2nd resole, you'll actually know what you need for your routes.
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>>2740847
Snow canyon is 100% worth it. I moved far away so it'll be a long time before I'm back in that area, but were I to make an impromptu stop I'll keep Bluff St in mind.
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>>2749083
thanks, yeah they are surpisingly comortable for me, I'll see how they perform this weekend
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Kids these days don't get beaten enough.
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>>2749238
Graffiti has existed since the Roman empire
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>>2749277
I'll take ancient roman graffiti over some snotnose kid spray-painting emo shit all over Centralia any day
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>>2749277
At least theirs didn’t say “PORNHUB” and x3 in gigantic pink paint letters

So much of Mt Charleston is closed. But IM GOING TO YOSEMITE FINALLY WOOOOOO TIME TO GET RETARDED

ANYONE OUT THERE AND WANT TO CLIMB IM DOWN TO SOLO, TRAD, BOULDER, AID, SPORT, ALPINE, FUCK YOUR GIRLFRIEND, LETS GOOOOOOO
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>>2749305
hay buddy hit me up if you want to climb with a complete retard

949 648 0594
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I wanted to be a rock climber but got herniated and I'm currently recovering from spine surgery. I wanted to get into mountaineering but due to a motorcycle accident my right knee hurts if I kick anything to hard, not sure what is it but it feels like it pops and then I'm in pain for the next 2 days. It's so fucked, this is all I've ever wanted to do in life but there's always something that wants to prevent me from being part of it.
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>>2740677
Tf? Since when?
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morning glory at acadias great head trs
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>>2749305
Roman graffiti only seems refined to you because of its age and language

They also drew many dicks
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>>2749967
Very cool. I've always wondered about the start of climbs like this, seem like it would be dicey.
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agghh i hate how online topo websites made topo books less common, the books are so much more fun
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>>2728674
Half ropes are great for zigzagging pitches or routes with dodgy gear that you'd like to back up with something out to the side (don't listen to the poster talking about trad NEEDING half ropes that's total rubbish). Also great for doing a multipitch as a party of three - sounds faffy but it can be just as efficient as a party of two and more fun at the belay.
I climb on gritstone a lot and my go to set up is a 30m single rope for 80% of the climbs, but I'll carry an extra half rope and use that as a second rope if it's a wandering pitch, seems like the best of both worlds for me
>>
Pride month is over, you guys can stop now.
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>>2740677
unironically tho who on /out/ actually climbs anymore? probably nobody
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>>2750524
Heck, who on /out/ even goes outdoors anymore?
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>>2750487
Agreed and there are many routes in my area that are only in books but I do check MP for new ones that have gone up since they were published.
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It's been so hot over here and its only getting hotter, post some your alpine climbs
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>>2752127
Tomorrow's high 109, heading out at dawn...wish me luck.
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>>2752127

>>2752165
I wish I had your level of stoke. Have fun.
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>>2752278
It was fun! By the end I was drenched and exhausted but I've been cooped for a month and it was totally worth it.
It was already approaching 100F at 8am but I could have climbed up to 9 or even 10 in the shade.
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>>2752299
Jtree in the summer absolute fucking madman

Hit the Illilouette Falls highline in Yosemite. First time ever being on a line. Crazy feeling just hanging in space.
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>>2752375
Damn, and you call me a madman
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>"sends" trad route on toprope
>suggests grade downgrade
these people need to kill themselves
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>>2752702
okay but has this ever actually happened
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I've started leading and there are a lot of shallow and somewhat flaring cracks on this wall I want to try. Nuts won't work for most of it, or at least it doesn't seem secure to me. They are just deep enough in some places that a small tricam would would work but I'm a little worried about them staying put. I just bought a couple Camalot z4's(.3 and .4) to try out, but there are so many. Are there any other cams you would recommend?
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>>2753807
I'm sure someone with more experience will chime in, but for flaring cracks I usually hear people talking about offset alien cams
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>>2739844
>>2739930
I'm also a longtime lurker, it's tough to contribute because I feel like you guys are way ahead of me skill-wise and probably don't want to hear about my once a semester sport trip. Also I live in Illinois so it's mostly shit here lol. I really like the climbing general though so I'll try to post in here to liven it up. I just graduated college and moving to Georgia next month so I'm hoping Appalachia will provide much more in the way or climbing than Illinois did. Anyone have any pointers for southeast climbing and where to go outside? Also, how do I go about getting into more advanced stuff past sport? Trad, mountaineering, alpine, etc
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>>2753816
Yeah those might be better. I was just wondering if anyone here had experience with cracks like these, most look too shallow to put the cam in angled down but can go straight in, with the stems sticking out perpendicular to the wall, which seems like it would come out but the dude at REI said the z4s would work that way..so I might try it with a top rope back up and do some drop tests. I was just reading about Totems, which have separate cables so the load gets distributed, so maybe those. There are just so many types it's hard to choose.
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>>2754224
how deep are the cracks? often times you can fit a small cam or nut deep in the back of it if it gets thinner towards the inside
also tricams might work well for those horizontal cracks if its close to the route you're doing
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>>2754297
They are about 1.5 to 3 inches, some deeper which can take a nut. They are finger cracks at the deepest point but as you can see in the pic above they flare quite a bit. The z4s I got will go in but I'm not sure they will hold. And yeah, all the horizontals will take tricams and I even think I can get a pink one to stay in one of the deeper verticals. Thanks.
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>>2754326
>some deeper which can take a nut
how lewd
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Any weirdos in the adk wanna show me the ropes, literally? I've got no friends.

Or at least give me some tips how to find people
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>>2754329
It can be.

>>2754330
Adirondacks? Maybe try the NE regional forum on Mountain Project. Looks like great climbing there.
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>>2753807
totems
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I'm a complete beginner to climbing. How should I start? A climbing gym?
I lift and run regularly but the most I've ever climbed was a short boulder with my dad when I was a kid.
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>>2754988
Yeah climbing gyms are basically designed to have as low a barrier to entry as possible. They are a great place to learn and meet other climbers. If your goal is to start climbing outdoors then pay attention to other climbers who are climbing outside and try to insert yourself. Most people are pretty happy to find a new belay buddy. A lot of gyms will also offer a gym-to-crag class to get you started.

Does your dad climb? Just got back from Little Beacon Rock today with my dad. He's up to 5.8 now.
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>>2755031
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>>2755031
Ok, good to know. I'll check out the gyms in my area.
My dad used to climb but he hasn't in over 10 years. He runs marathons these days.
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>>2755051
Funny my dad used to run marathons and now he climbs. If you have multiple gyms make sure to visit them all before committing to a membership. More generic beginner advice: try on shoes before you buy and get the cheapest pair that are comfortable for you.
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>>2749971
bit of a cultural difference between crude drawings of dicks which have always existed and "PORNHUB <3" in faggot-pink paint. I wank like everyone else but the decreasing average age of first exposure to hardcore pornography is bad and parents don't care.
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>>2755033
Which route did you take up? I finally was able to climb outside after a month and went to french's dome
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>>2755345
>French's Dome
Ha this was one of the first routes I did with my parents. We went up Giant's Staircase. Great fun.

There's only one route on Little Beacon Rock--it's a 2-pitch 5.8 sport. I'm eyeing the Southeast Corner or Iron Spike route on Beacon Rock for our next climb. Apparently a block came off Southeast Corner last fall and bumped the grade up to 5.8 or even 5.9.
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>>2755349
>Little Beacon Rock
completely overlooked the little part, I'll have to check it out next time.
If the block was on pitch 3 of SE going around the corner then it definitely bumped it up. I remember climbing it and wondering how I would get over it without the, at the time, suspect block
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>>2755616
Haha yep that's the one.

If you visit Little Beacon Rock then be sure to keep your eye out for poison oak. It's all over the approach and the base of the route.



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