Can /out/ recommend me a good:-Hatchet-Saw-Camp stove/cooking systemI love to hike and camp, but my camping has mostly been pretty easy stuff. I'm looking to learn how to do longer more difficult things and build some skills. (Mostly building fires.)It's kind of overwhelming figuring this stuff out. Any other advice for going from easy mode to the next is appreciated, too.Thanks!
Gasoline msr stove, sven saw, and any hatchet with wooden handle but if you want something nice get a hults bruk
>>2796584Hatchet, a Cold Steel Trailhawk, if u are rich guy any Swede hatchets like GränsforsBruks or Hultafors.Saw, i have a fold saw from the Hardwarestore for 5 Bucks, it does it job.Cook shit = Trangia
>>2796584Estwing hatchet. Anything else is a larp ala >>2796607 >>2796609
>>2796610Estwing is thin, this can be nice but for what it does a machete can do and more, any other hatchet will chunk out wood chips and split wood no problem
>>2796584finskarsbahco laplandertrangia
If you will be hiking a 12" Silky saw will be light and still be very handy for cutting fire wood. A minimalist cooking system is a 12 ounce steel pot with a lid you set in the coals of your fire to cook with. I keep my roll of TP , matches, zippo and lighter fluid in my pot. People hat on zippo lighters but I like them because you can light the wick and set the Zippo down under your tinder while it starts. You do not have to hold the lighter while you start your fire. I live in Appalachia where wood is abundant. The southern pine has small pencil lead size twigs all over its trunk. These tiny branches are dead and since they are up on the trunk in the breeze usually dry. Even in wet weather they will start burning quickly. The white and red oak trees shed pencil thickness branches every time the wind blows. You are more likely to have to clear branches from your camp site than you are to find a site in the woods that is clear of branches. I say all of this because depending on your area a small silky saw is all you need to process the firewood you need to start a camp fire.
>>2796610Estwing sucks, shill. There is a reason hatchets have been made with wooden handles that mitigate and absorb shock as opposed to metal holms and rubber handles that transfer it all into your forearm.
>>2796610>Estwing>Anything else is larp>Estwing site is full of retarded tacticool tomahawks and double bits
>>2796584>hatchetJust get a cheap hardware store hatchet.The brand-name stuff is no better nowadays (or even worse - fiskars and estwing suck), and if you knew what to look for in an old hatchet, you wouldn't be asking here.>SawSilky. I'd get the F180 (fibreglass handle) since it's a lot cheaper than the full-steel models, unless you're into using minimal gear like I am. In that case, get the small pocketboy. I've got both in use, as well as a katanaboy, and those saws are way better than all others I've tried.>Camp stove/cooking systemDepends on your location and laws. If you're in the far north, a folding gridle and an open fire will work just fine, as would a gasoline stove, while a gas or spirits stove wouldn't even light. On the other hand, in the subtropics, an open fire means risking a wildfire, and a gasoline stove might evaporate enoug fuel through any leaks to become dangerous if not perfectly maintained.If you're above the freezing point, I'd stick with a simple spirits stove (Esbit or one of the chinese ripoffs, as Trangia is less efficient and more expensive. Look for one that has two different hole sizes). Then get a folding windshield / pot stand combination. Most of those double as solid fuel stoves for sub-zero temps.If you're below the freezing point often, get a gasoline stove. Those are expensive, but the only thing that'll light reliably in those conditions. Spirits will freeze just a little below 0C, petroleum works in principle, but needs spirits or gasoline to preheat, and if you've ever tried to build a fire with frozen wood, you know that it's a pain.
>>2797115I agree with the statement on hatchets (though my 1.8 lbs Elwell is better than every hatchet ever made in the world, ever) and all of those cheap ones come with that disgusting polymer coating on the wood so you will have to scrape it off and then sand it. Make sure to wear a respirator when you do that because you don't want to inhale sharp microplastic particles. But silky is very overpriced, overshilled chink garbage. Get a PAX saw if you care about quality tools for the White man.https://www.leevalley.com/en-ca/shop/tools/hand-tools/saws/panel/46886-pax-22-rip-saw?item=33T0801
Cold Steel tomahawks beat anything in it's size range. You can adjust the hang (edge alignment with the handle) by just slipping shims in the eye until it's perfect. The handles are so easy to replace they're basically disposable. The heads are light and thin, which is precisely what you want for pack carry and dealing primarily with dry small diameter wood, and for trail clearing type work. The heat treatments are consistently excellent, and are differential of course. Many models also have hardened hammer polls. You can't beat them at any price. I'll take a Cold Steel pipe or Hudson Bay hawk over anything from Gransfors or Council or any of the rest of them, and I've used any hatchet you can name.
>>2797212>>2797133>>2797115>>2796706OP, here. Thanks for the thoughtful answers. I really appreciate it.
