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File: pvs14_nikonz8_adapters.jpg (1.75 MB, 2500x1875)
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A couple of months ago I asked for help getting a PVS14 attached to my Nikon. I wanted to reply here and say thanks to the Anon that gave me encouragement and advice. I finally got this project done and wanted to offer my learnings to anyone interested.
I used a standard PVS14 and a manual focus 50mm lens connected by a couple of thread adapters.
PVS14 eye pieces have 30mm threads. The key is to find an adapter that goes from M30 to the filter size on your lens. The threads on both the pvs14 and filters are female threads. You'll need to find an adapter or combo of adapters that goes male to male 30mm to filter-size. My filter was some oddball 43mm. I was able to find a 30mm (male) to 43mm (female), but near as I can tell no place on earth makes a male-to-male adapter in 43mm. I had to make my own on the CNC. Don't make my mistake: find a 50mm lens with a filter size that has readily available male-to-male thread adapters!! don't get a 43mm unless you want to burn a couple of hours making your own!!
My contraption went:
PVS14 -> 30mm(male) to 43mm(female) -> homebrew 43mm male-to-male -> 43mm filter on 50mm lens -> Nikon Z8.
Even with all of this, it took some fiddling to get sharp photos. Thus far I haven't quite been able to match the clarity of the PVS14 as seen through the eye with the camera. I got this for taking photos of stars, but it was overcast today so you get pictures of my cats sleeping in the dark

[EXIF data available. Click here to show/hide.]
Camera-Specific Properties:
Equipment Makemotorola
Camera Modelmoto g stylus
Camera Softwaresofiap_retail-user 11 RPRS31.Q1-56-9-15 36628 release-keys
Sensing MethodOne-Chip Color Area
Image-Specific Properties:
Image OrientationTop, Left-Hand
Horizontal Resolution72 dpi
Vertical Resolution72 dpi
Image Created2024:03:31 21:17:58
Exposure Time1/40 sec
F-Numberf/1.7
ISO Speed Rating663
Lens Aperturef/1.7
Brightness-0.8 EV
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Metering ModeCenter Weighted Average
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Image Width4000
Image Height3000
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Scene Capture TypeStandard
>>
File: N24_2752.jpg (2.15 MB, 2500x1667)
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cats trying sleep...

[EXIF data available. Click here to show/hide.]
Camera-Specific Properties:
Equipment MakeNIKON CORPORATION
Camera ModelNIKON Z 8
Camera SoftwareVer.02.00
Sensing MethodOne-Chip Color Area
Color Filter Array Pattern1096
Focal Length (35mm Equiv)0 mm
Image-Specific Properties:
Image OrientationTop, Left-Hand
Horizontal Resolution300 dpi
Vertical Resolution300 dpi
Image Created2024:03:31 20:16:03
Exposure Time1/160 sec
F-Numberf/0.0
Exposure ProgramAperture Priority
ISO Speed Rating8000
Exposure Bias0 EV
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FlashNo Flash
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Color Space InformationsRGB
Image Width8256
Image Height5504
RenderingCustom
Exposure ModeAuto
White BalanceAuto
Scene Capture TypeStandard
Gain ControlHigh Gain Up
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SharpnessNormal
Subject Distance RangeUnknown
>>
That's pretty neat anon. Post more pictures when you can take them
>>
File: N24_2749.jpg (2.16 MB, 2500x1667)
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>>4300044
Sadly no stars tonight, but here's one down my street from my driveway. The pvs14 I got has really good resolution that's being lost somewhere along the way, I'm trying to fine tune the focus. I suspect I may need to cut another thread adapter that puts the eye piece closer to the camera's lens.

[EXIF data available. Click here to show/hide.]
Camera-Specific Properties:
Equipment MakeNIKON CORPORATION
Camera ModelNIKON Z 8
Camera SoftwareVer.02.00
Sensing MethodOne-Chip Color Area
Color Filter Array Pattern1096
Focal Length (35mm Equiv)0 mm
Image-Specific Properties:
Image OrientationTop, Left-Hand
Horizontal Resolution300 dpi
Vertical Resolution300 dpi
Image Created2024:03:31 20:14:37
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F-Numberf/0.0
Exposure ProgramAperture Priority
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Exposure Bias0 EV
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Color Space InformationsRGB
Image Width8256
Image Height5504
RenderingCustom
Exposure ModeAuto
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Gain ControlHigh Gain Up
ContrastNormal
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>>
That's significantly better than I expected
cool shit.
>>
Why connect it to a lens, instead of approximating focal distance and attaching it to a cheap chinese helicoid by adapter or something? You're adding layers of transmission that aren't necessary.
>>
>>4300057
> helicoid
by the looks of it I'd still need a thread adapter assembly to go pvs14 30mm -> male-threads -> helicoid -> camera. Unclear if this would get me a clearer picture or not.
One of the tricks to getting a better shot thus far was closing the aperture on the lens to 5.6 or 8 and setting lens focus to infinite.
Would I adjust the diopter value to change focus?
>>
>>4300041
you might not be getting sharp photos vecause of the minimum focus distance of the camera lens

you need to try a macro lens with a very close focus distance
>>
>>4300114
The focus is set to infinity, I'm trying to focus through the eye piece, not at its surface. Its working fairly well but more experimentation is needed. I'lll see what happens if I bring the pvs14 closer to the lens without the added lens assembly, and I'll try to bring the pvs14 closer to the sensor without the lens at all.
>>
>>4300105
>diopter value
Presumably. I'm no expert on optics. I asked because I've fucked around with unconventional adapted imaging before and my general understanding is that more glass/apertures/etc. that affect transmission, the more optical degradation you'll have. Eliminating the lens might increase image fidelity.
>>
>>4300571
What I would do is figure out the approximate flange focal distance of the eye. Very likely a camera's flange focal distance is greater. That means you might need to remove the eyepiece to get the cam closer.
>>
>>4300041
Nice idea anon, post moar

>>4300042
Cute
>>
cool shiznit anon.
>>
>>4300572
I fiddled around with the pvs14 and the bare 50mm lens without the thread adapter. I got best results when the pvs14 was closest to the 50mm lens. I took my thread adapters to the lathe and took off about 4mm worth of threads. Now I can run aperture f/2.0 and focus at infinity.
Diopter value was critical. For my eye it works best between 0 and -0.5, for the 50mm lens it works best at +0.5
This pvs14 has a FOM of 2600+ and 81 lp/mm so its absurdly sharp to my eye. I wish the diopter had a fine-tuning method so I could achieve that with the lens.
No clouds, let me see if I can grab some star shots.
>>
File: N24_2757.jpg (1.45 MB, 2500x1667)
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>>4300735
mein catter

[EXIF data available. Click here to show/hide.]
Camera-Specific Properties:
Equipment MakeNIKON CORPORATION
Camera ModelNIKON Z 8
Camera SoftwareVer.02.00
Sensing MethodOne-Chip Color Area
Color Filter Array Pattern1096
Focal Length (35mm Equiv)0 mm
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Horizontal Resolution300 dpi
Vertical Resolution300 dpi
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Exposure Time1/160 sec
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ISO Speed Rating900
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Color Space InformationsRGB
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Scene Capture TypeStandard
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SaturationNormal
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Subject Distance RangeUnknown
>>
File: N24_2778.jpg (2.08 MB, 2500x1667)
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>>4300735
turns out stars are exceedingly tough to get a good shot. the screen is dark enough to make the camera crank up the ISO.

[EXIF data available. Click here to show/hide.]
Camera-Specific Properties:
Equipment MakeNIKON CORPORATION
Camera ModelNIKON Z 8
Camera SoftwareVer.02.00
Sensing MethodOne-Chip Color Area
Color Filter Array Pattern1096
Focal Length (35mm Equiv)0 mm
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Image OrientationTop, Left-Hand
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Vertical Resolution300 dpi
Image Created2024:04:02 23:33:17
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>>
File: N24_2781.jpg (1.54 MB, 2500x1667)
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>>4300735
I live on the outskirts of a city, so there's still enough light that I can see maybe 100 stars with my eyes. With the PVS14 I can see at least 100x as many.
This is with the exposure running -1.7 to force the camera to a lower ISO and show it closer to what my eyes see. Without this it washes out a lot.
So many stars.
For those that have never looked into the heavens with a PVS14, find a way and do it. So worth it.

[EXIF data available. Click here to show/hide.]
Camera-Specific Properties:
Equipment MakeNIKON CORPORATION
Camera ModelNIKON Z 8
Camera SoftwareVer.02.00
Sensing MethodOne-Chip Color Area
Color Filter Array Pattern1096
Focal Length (35mm Equiv)0 mm
Image-Specific Properties:
Image OrientationTop, Left-Hand
Horizontal Resolution300 dpi
Vertical Resolution300 dpi
Image Created2024:04:02 23:34:17
Exposure Time1/160 sec
F-Numberf/0.0
Exposure ProgramAperture Priority
ISO Speed Rating1250
Exposure Bias-1.7 EV
Metering ModeCenter Weighted Average
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FlashNo Flash
Focal Length0.00 mm
Color Space InformationsRGB
Image Width8256
Image Height5504
RenderingCustom
Exposure ModeAuto
White BalanceAuto
Scene Capture TypeStandard
Gain ControlLow Gain Up
ContrastNormal
SaturationNormal
SharpnessNormal
Subject Distance RangeUnknown
>>
>>4300739
I like it.
>>
>>4300042
bro you need to white balance ur images what the fuck
so cyan/green
>>
>>4300041
great idea. try using some filters on the front of the nvd and male b&w then single channel, combine to make false color image
>>
>>4301292
shut up, retard.
>>
>>4301318
>combine to make false color image
beyond my skill set, but sounds interesting.
>>
>>4301825
>beyond my skill set
The hardest part is getting the red/green/blue filters between the camera and NVG while keeping the distance the same otherwise it's as easy as taking the same picture 3 times.
>>
>>4301827
idk maybe it should go in front of the nvg i'm drunk
>>
>>4301830
No, that's not how electro optics work.
any filter will just reduce the amount of incoming light and will have no effect on the output color.
output color will always have that white phosphor tint.
>>
>>4301827
>>4301830
>>4301863
Yes it needs to go in front of the NV, and yes it will affect the output image. You won't get a different coloured output but the resulting image will be filtered and could then be converted to that colour.
>>
>>4301868
>>4301830
>>4301827
>>4301863
>let me put colored filters
>in front of something that amplifies largely infrared light
you really are this retarded arent you
>>
>>4301876
Not retarded but I'll admit that I don't know enough about the electromagnetic spectrum to say for certain. My assumption was that while they do amplify only infrared light, that light is bouncing of objects that have a "colour" and so a coloured filter would affect what is captured. Thinking about it again you would be right because the filter would only be filtering out visible light of that colour.

Would there not be a way to determine the colour of objects using specialise infrared filters though? Like do objects of a certain visible colour not reflect infrared light of a certain frequency?
>>
>>4301876
Yes, I am retarded. Problem?
>>
>>4301868
jesus dude, you are a retard.
I can tell you've never owned a PVS14.
>>
>>4301898
Things that are about same colour in visible light can reflect NIR very differently and vice versa. It's not about visible colour but composition of the reflecting surface. There is a thing called IR spectroscopy for identifying chemical substances.
>>
File: hot-brakes-short.webm (292 KB, 640x360)
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>>4301876
Gen 3 nods see enough of the visible spectrum to form a color image from three RGB filtered shots. However, to get color comparable to what we're used to you would also need to filter IR. If you left the IR it would be like an extreme IR color photo from a converted digital sensor. More extreme than a SiOnyx Aurora (webm related).
>>
File: gen3_milkyway.webm (331 KB, 640x360)
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>>4300041
Were you the anon who asked about how to do this a while back? I remember directing someone to k/nvg/ for all the info.

In any case, nice shots anon. Fucking love nods.
>>
>>4301982
>Were you the anon who asked about how to do this a while back?
Yes! thank you for sending me that way and for your encouragement. It all came together when I made my own 43mm thread adapter and adjusted the diopter.
and I totally agree these things are amazing, the PVS14 truly is a magic device.



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