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File: 1600x1070x2.jpg (250 KB, 1600x1070)
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This photo was shot on Kodak Colorplus 200. The cheapest color negative film currently available.

With Canon Top Twin (known as Sure Shot Tele in America and Autoboy Tele in Japan). Snapshit film camera from 1986.

And it still looks better than anything shot on digital.
>>
File: 6316529449_9466524cf4_o.jpg (411 KB, 1000x720)
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[EXIF data available. Click here to show/hide.]
Camera-Specific Properties:
Equipment MakeCanon
Camera ModelCanon EOS 1000D
Camera SoftwareAdobe Photoshop 7.0
Image-Specific Properties:
Image OrientationTop, Left-Hand
Horizontal Resolution72 dpi
Vertical Resolution72 dpi
Image Created2011:11:06 02:03:23
Exposure Time5 sec
F-Numberf/22.0
Exposure ProgramAperture Priority
ISO Speed Rating400
Lens Aperturef/22.6
Exposure Bias0.7 EV
Metering ModePattern
FlashNo Flash, Compulsory
Focal Length35.00 mm
Color Space InformationsRGB
Image Width1000
Image Height720
RenderingNormal
Exposure ModeAuto
White BalanceAuto
Scene Capture TypeStandard
>>
>>4340774
you are preaching to the choir man
>>
>>4340774
No, not really.

You're coping hard.

t. shoots 6x6 and ff digital
>>
>2024
>arguing about film and digital
ngmi
>>
>>4340774
Agreed
>>
meh
>>
>>4340774
>it looks better
buy some rolls and shoot pics to post then
>>
File: B0290089-y720px.jpg (127 KB, 478x720)
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>>4340774
It looks like shit and gets thoroughly mogged by any photograph by Eggy shot on digital, case in point.

[EXIF data available. Click here to show/hide.]
Camera-Specific Properties:
Equipment MakeRICOH IMAGING COMPANY, LTD.
Camera ModelPENTAX K-3
Camera Softwaredarktable 4.6.1
PhotographerAndrew Wade Eglington oh-hi.info
Focal Length (35mm Equiv)157 mm
Image-Specific Properties:
Image OrientationTop, Left-Hand
Image Created2024:06:08 16:32:38
Exposure Time1/400 sec
F-Numberf/5.6
Exposure ProgramAperture Priority
ISO Speed Rating800
Exposure Bias-0.3 EV
Metering ModePattern
FlashNo Flash
Focal Length105.00 mm
Color Space InformationsRGB
Image Width478
Image Height720
RenderingNormal
Exposure ModeManual
White BalanceManual
Scene Capture TypeStandard
ContrastHard
SaturationLow
SharpnessHard
Subject Distance RangeDistant View
>>
>>4340868
Even eggy can not get good colors in darktable. What the fuck is with those blotchy blue steak skin tones, ew
>>
File: B0289638-y720px.jpg (105 KB, 479x720)
105 KB
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*mogs you in you're path*
>>4340871
It's called lighting.

[EXIF data available. Click here to show/hide.]
Camera-Specific Properties:
Equipment MakeRICOH IMAGING COMPANY, LTD.
Camera ModelPENTAX K-3
Camera Softwaredarktable 4.4.2
PhotographerAndrew Wade Eglington oh-hi.info
Focal Length (35mm Equiv)105 mm
Image-Specific Properties:
Image OrientationTop, Left-Hand
Image Created2024:05:04 15:16:25
Exposure Time1/250 sec
F-Numberf/5.6
Exposure ProgramAperture Priority
ISO Speed Rating500
Exposure Bias-0.3 EV
Metering ModePattern
FlashNo Flash
Focal Length70.00 mm
Color Space InformationsRGB
Image Width479
Image Height720
RenderingNormal
Exposure ModeManual
White BalanceManual
Scene Capture TypeStandard
ContrastHard
SaturationLow
SharpnessHard
Subject Distance RangeDistant View
>>
>>4340873
No, it's called editing. The sun has perfect color reproduction. Any disgusting skin tone issues are 100% on the photographer - or if they're shooting sony, which ironically, uses the SAME color science as pentax - then it's on "snoy".
>>
>>4340874
>color science
stop
>the sun has perfect color reproduction
it's winter down under and they're in the shade
why do you think there's a shade WB setting?
it's not a film vs digital thing but a "put a skylight filter on" thing
>>
>>4340876
Buddy eggy's colors are atrocious. He's a great example of why no amount of time spent "learning" darktable is time well spent.
>>
>>4340868
>>4340873
these look lifeless and meh
>>
>>4340868
>>4340873
This is a new level of nophoto
>>
>>4340774
>The cheapest color negative film currently available
I always see fuji 200 for cheaper though
>>
File: P1050681.jpg (1.67 MB, 2248x3341)
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>>4340868
>>4340873
*snaps*

Yes, that goes directly to my cringe collection.

[EXIF data available. Click here to show/hide.]
Camera-Specific Properties:
Equipment MakePanasonic
Camera ModelDMC-GF5
Camera SoftwareAdobe Photoshop Lightroom Classic 8.2.1 (Windows)
Maximum Lens Aperturef/1.7
Sensing MethodOne-Chip Color Area
Focal Length (35mm Equiv)54 mm
Image-Specific Properties:
Horizontal Resolution240 dpi
Vertical Resolution240 dpi
Image Created2024:07:19 20:51:03
Exposure Time1/60 sec
F-Numberf/22.0
Exposure ProgramNormal Program
ISO Speed Rating160
Lens Aperturef/22.0
Exposure Bias0 EV
Metering ModePattern
Light SourceFlash
FlashFlash, Compulsory
Focal Length25.00 mm
Color Space InformationsRGB
RenderingNormal
Exposure ModeAuto
White BalanceAuto
Scene Capture TypeStandard
Gain ControlLow Gain Up
ContrastNormal
SaturationNormal
SharpnessNormal
>>
>>4340874
Noobie here. Are there any good resources on editing skin tones on digital? I know what you mean but dunno exactly how to achieve it
>>
>>4340915
They don't either, it's why film is still around.
>>
>>4340915
>NTA
Look into how color grading works(primarily you'll find resources for the film industry such as the classic teal/orange or the mexico filter) and HSL adjustments(for example color blending of oranges/yellows/reds to get smoother skin tones).
In Lightroom you can do color grading on highlights, shadows, and midtones unlike with DxO Photolabs 7 where you can only do highlights and shadows which I dislike, however it's HSL handling is way better with better blending so it works out for either tool.
Midtones and HSL are where you'd be adjusting the most for skin color, and highlights for the type of lighting to work with or against the midtone, and the shadows for mood. You can also do masking for both if you want to color grade a specific thing.
You'll find digital will recreate blotchy skin tones exactly + that body's color science which can make it worse or better, where film is a lot more blended in that regard.

If you want some quick vids on demonstrating the basics and more in practice here's two:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g6NL-uaetRg
Don't like this dude, but it shows messing with HSL and color-grading in conjunction
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=52-aACyrqLM

In general avoid saturation like the plague, it'll only exasperate those issues as it affects all colors, vibrancy is more restricted and protects midtones better(can push this way higher while decreasing saturation to balance it out), however if you want 'perfect' skintones you'll be messing with HSL and colorgrading, and likely touchups if blemish free/mole free is your thing.

Best thing to do besides watching youtube or getting advice from a mongolian plum picker forum is take some photos of yourself/friends/whatever and practice and learn by doing, read/watch and do it either by following along or adjusting things on the fly to see how they affect eachother.
Keep a color wheel up, disable and enable the grading//hsl adjustments a lot for checking, and have fun mang.
>>
>>4340954
>Just pull the sliders brah
>>
>>4340774
cope
>>
>>4340774
this was clearly taken on a nice prime lens, why lie?
>>
>>4341066

https://www.lomography.com/search/photos/24829513
>>
>>4341066
Its a 250kb 1mp jpeg. Literally a wallet print. And still, nothing is sharp. Stop viewing on phone screens.

OP is also wrong. It looks like it was shot on an a7iii with a tamron or samyang
>>
>>4341085
>muh sharpness
>muh snoy

Mental illness
>>
>>4341098
>you cant like anything that shitty cameras can’t do!
cope

lomography literally means “taking blurry photos on purpose”



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