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File: image.png (2.82 MB, 1745x1332)
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soulless snapping at F/32 edition
>>
File: file.png (2.35 MB, 1290x1266)
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I like spiders
>>
File: 5E7A6575.jpg (3.03 MB, 3072x3734)
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8x10 contact print of a moth.

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>>
>>4342918
Roughly 6x magnification.
>>
>>4342918
That's beautiful, great work.
>>4342922
>6x magnification
Is that even 1x in 35mm equivalent terms? What kind of aperture did you have to deal with for this?
>>
>>4342963
Thanks! I'm very excited to continue working with these 8x10 macro shots. I've got some cool ideas for more moth/butterfly shots.

If you copied the exact image with 35mm it would probably be less than a 1:1 actually. Kind of funny how it works out like that.

I used a 120mm lens with 34 inches of bellows extension at f32 higher apertures cause severe softenening of the image through diffusion.
3 minute exposure on 100 speed film. There was a 6 stop bellows extension compensation for this one.
>>
>>4342972
>6 stop bellows extension compensation
Sweet jesus.
>>
File: IMG_5904.jpg (3.6 MB, 3456x3456)
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This is a small cactus, and i think a moth carcass on the bottom right i didn't notice.
I'm new to taking pics (besides with my phone of things like receipts, serial numbers and such) but i always thought macro photography was cool af, so i purchased a cheapo extension tube thing and one of those foldable diffusers for a few bucks.
I have discovered i am very wobbly and have nfi what i'm doing, no bully.
I'm surprised by just how much i don't see when casually looking at things, and by what keeps popping up like small bugs, hairs/fibres, designs and all sorts of interesting things. It's like a whole new world.

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>>
>>4342854
Can I really just shoot everything at f.20+ if I hate computation photography?
>>
File: IMG_3120-Enhanced-NR.jpg (2.51 MB, 4160x3215)
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>>
>>4342854
Anyone shoot gemstones? I have one of those cheap extension tube sets, a 50mm and 85mm primes. Which would be better and what length extension?
>>
File: IMG_5927.jpg (3.47 MB, 3456x3456)
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>>4343237
I'm just shootin em and postin em
I think im using the 31mm extension tube, but i have nfi what any of these numbers mean.
When i just threw them all on it was cool but the object had to be basically touching the lense.
Grab one of those flexible flash diffusers for a few bucks, it made mine look loads better.
It's fun.

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>>
File: IMG_0430.jpg (424 KB, 2589x1726)
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>>4343237
>>4343254
Greater focal lengths get you more distance from the subject which is mostly important for living subjects. However this assumes the minimum focusing distance is the same (say, 0.5m) which is measured from the sensor not the end of the lens. When using extension tubes the general rule is wider lenses are more effective than telephotos, and to keep the extension length to half or less than the focal length of the lens you're using, but going slightly over won't matter much. What you're mostly concerned with is your magnification level and working distance. Working distance is the length measured from the end of your lens to the subject at closest focus.

As you add extension tube length three things happen.
- You reduce the MFD and thereby increase your magnification
- You add length to your lens thereby reducing your working distance (and can come into scenarios where the focusing point is behind your lens)
- You reduce the amount of light reaching your sensor

>When i just threw them all on it was cool but the object had to be basically touching the [lense]
Use a smaller length of tubes, your MFD is too close
>Which [extension tube] would be better and what length extension?
Focal distance is not super important but most actual macro lenses start at 100mm, so use your 85mm and slap on the highest length extension tubes you can that leaves you some working distance
>>4343164
>Can I really just shoot everything at f.20+ if I hate computation photography?
Yes, at such short focusing distances your DoF is razor thin and you'll get pretty much nothing in focus below f/8 and won't have much to look at until you're at f/13~+. Also depends on what size sensor you're using since smaller sensors (like M43) have a greater DoF for the same FoV. Diffraction (the thing we don't like when using narrow apertures) is not great, but neither is having nothing in focus.

Pic rel shot at f/9 with fuck all in focus.

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>>
>>4343254
I don't really have a decent flash which I can see being an issue but I sort of want to control the lighting while I look at it to see all the facets.
>>4343268
So with the 85, use roughly 40mm of extension tube? I don't have them in front of me at the moment and can't remember what exactly they were. Also, I have a 1.6x teleconverter. Would it be batshit retarded to use that as well and bring it up to 100mm? I'll try and get a photo soon and maybe you can tell me why it looks like shit.
>>
File: IMG_5901.jpg (2.24 MB, 3456x3456)
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I was trying to take a pic of some flowers and this guy spooked my when he appeared in focus. I could not for the life of me get a good photo of him, it was just too windy.
>>4343269
>I don't really have a decent flash which I can see being an issue but I sort of want to control the lighting while I look at it to see all the facets.
Fair enough, i just use the built in one
>>4343268
>MFD
Whats that?
to for trying to explain

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>>
File: mfd-example.jpg (437 KB, 1641x1029)
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>>4343269
>So with the 85, use roughly 40mm of extension tube?
Nothing wrong with using less. You could use 12mm, 20mm, 24mm, doesn't matter. Just the greater the tube length the bigger the effect is has. The only thing the half/focal distance thing is concerned about is that's where you get some heavy deminishing returns / your working distance can become nil.
>1.6x teleconverter
You can, so long as it would work with the lens in the first place. The problem is you'll be reducing the light reaching the sensor even further. Not saying it can't work, but in macro photography you're already fighting for light.
>>4343271
>Fair enough, i just use the built in [flash]
Nothing wrong with this, the results might just make the lighting look a little harsh
>MFD What's that?
Minimum Focusing Distance. Refers to the length from the sensor (in your camera body, not the lens) to your closest focusing point. Since it is measured from the sensor, you can end up in situations where the focusing point is closer to the sensor than your lens sticks out therefore you cannot focus a subject at that point. That's what happens when you have too many extension tubes and not enough focal length / starting MFD (i.e what's marked on your lens as the original MFD >pic rel).

I also highly recommend a tripod if the situation allows for and learning how to focus stack. Some cameras can do this in-camera and also handheld. OG way is to take the photos manually then stack them in post. The results are fantastic if done properly but takes extra steps / effort.

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>>
File: IMG_0264.jpg (799 KB, 4200x2800)
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>>4343296
>pic rel
Focusing stacking with a very wide aperture for macro (f/5.6). A single shot with these settings had about the topmost dark red part of the stigma (middle red and green part) to the first part the stigma that sprawls outwards in focus and nothing more.

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>>
File: P8039215.jpg (2.26 MB, 3456x4608)
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>>
File: P8039366.jpg (2.16 MB, 4608x3456)
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sadly fucked up the focus here

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>>
File: P8039226.jpg (2.06 MB, 3456x4608)
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>>
>>4342918
bloody hell, are you the anon doing macros on ULF? with 9600 W/s lights?
>>
File: P7238947.jpg (2.26 MB, 3456x4608)
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>>
File: 5E7A6595.jpg (3.71 MB, 3072x3747)
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What do you think of the background? Is it too distracting, or does it add a nice touch the overall image? My main problem with this picture is that the background is too dark, and I am going to aim for a more midtone gray when lighting my scene next time.

I may also try to print this again with about 8 seconds of 0 contrast on top of the 10 seconds at 1.5. The highlights are still a hair too bright for my liking.


This general is slow, so I'm going to post my macro film pictures here and in /fgt/. Hopefully you guys don't mind.

>>4344655
>9600w/s
I was considering trying that for wetplate colloidion. I ran out of chemistry for my wetplates, so I got some 8x10 delta 100 film that I have been having an absolute blast using.

I can use my strobes with modifiers and just use the modeling lights for exposures ranging from 15s-3 minutes depending on my scene. This butterfly took 1min 20s at f/22 for example.

Here is my latest macro shot. I got a bunch of really beautiful dried butterflies that I will be playing around with.

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>>
File: DSC_4467-3.jpg (1.82 MB, 2048x1341)
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I like Nepenthes.

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>>
>>4343010
Judging by exif you are probably using an extension tube on your kit lens. If your MFD is not absurdly close you can likely get away with using your flash, but an external light source is basically necessary with macro shots. You're so starved for light since you'll get nothing in focus with open apertures, and using extensions also rob you of at least a stop's worth. So either you raise ISO to ungodly amounts, or use a tripod / flash. Handheld you need a flash, and tripods give overall better results but with the penalty of being a tripod. Shooting at f/8 you still got fuck all in focus so don't be afraid to push all the way up to f/22 or even higher. Ofc diffraction is a thing but you need to make that trade off. Learn what focus stacking is as it can help if you're willing to post process em to keep aperture lower and claw some light back.

Marco is fuckin great, so don't give up. IIRC the EFS 18-55mm III doesn't have IS so maybe pony up the money for an image stabilised lens if you're doing handheld shots and you find you're shaking so much. That's kind of why a flash or speedlite is needed since you can raise the shutter speed to your sync speed (1/250th normally) and shake is no longer a big concern. I used a 50mm prime with a 24mm extension tube to great results especially since I could use my inbuilt flash and a cheap $10 diffuser. My kit was hardly bigger than normal and you can end up with great results.

In terms of framing, you generally want to get some sort of contrasting background like a blue or gray sky with a red flower, for instance. Since your DoF is so low you'll oftentimes need to pick the most important part of the shot like the head of a snake, and deal with the rest being out of focus, but that's okay and can look really good.
>>
>>4344674
That's definitely a nice, but very weird image.
>>
File: _1227888.jpg (791 KB, 2400x1599)
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>>
File: _1227880.jpg (742 KB, 2400x1799)
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>>
I found these diffuser 3d print templates for my flash. Which diffuser model is the better choice for macro?
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6452634
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4147051
>>
File: 5E7A6663.jpg (3.13 MB, 4596x3565)
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Another 8x10 contact print. These are so much fun to make. I think a series of 3-5 would look amazing framed all next to each other.

>>4347088
Thanks. My friend said it could look cool screen printed on a shirt.

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>>
>>4347182
>>4347195
What lens?
>>
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how do i make macro photography easier?

im spending about 15min per bug and only getting 1 or 2 keepers if i get any at all
>camera doesn't support burst mode with flash which i think is making it harder
>struggling to get photos from above cause of the lens shadow
>biggest issue is getting the bug in focus

pic is a mole cricket, would not sit still for more than a second
found him nearly drowning after heavy rain

>>4347583
the long one will be better but idk how good it will be

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>>
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>>4347991
mite that was on the cricket
even bugs have bugs

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>>
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>>4347992
size comparison

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>>4347991
Freshly Dead bugs is the infinite time hack. Might be hard to do depending on the bug tho
>>
>>4347995
The freezer does the trick. Then you can pin them. :D
>>
>>4347991
i have no advice but that's fucking cool
>>
>>4348005
also forgot to ask, what lens? olympus 90?
>>
>>4347995
>>4347997
i dont wanna kill them, that would be alot easier though

>>4348006
7artisians 60mm
im glad you thought it was a lens 3x more expensive
>>
>>4348010
Don't worry, I didn't think it was an expensive lens. I thought it was one of those olympus bridge cameras with a macro mode.
>>
Thoughts on ring flashes?
>>
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>>4347991
>Lens shadow
Get a speedlite. Amazon ones are like $50 and good enough. They will sit much taller than your inbuilt flash so unless your subject is an inch away from the lens that will work.
>1 or 2 keepers... 15 minutes
Not unheard of with living macro. I'm not much of a bugman but I normally get about a 5-20% keeper rate. My blob Canon has a decently high burst mode with flash though, so I've technically got a leg up on you. It's all bullshit because the biggest advantage you could get yourself is a camera with a sync rate of 1/500th which is kind of rare.
In regards to >>4347995
Please don't kill shit just for the sake of taking a photo, you autists. If you want to end life in a morally justifiable way go be a cop and wear a bodycam, but fuck off from macro.
>>4348010
If you get the bennies, the Olympus 60mm macro is basically a $400 cheat code for macro. The 30mm works well and actually has better magnification but you'll be very close to the subject

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>>
>>4348026
Very useful. Lower profile and less weight than a speedlite but more fucking around since you need to attatch and detatch the adapter ring as you do other stuff. I used one for a while but not anymore; either my inbuilt flash or a fill light I can coldshoe is generally my go to now.
>>
>>4347932
Laowa 50mm 2x Macro
>>
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>>4348030
>Get a speedlite
i've got a godox TT685II, but it's ridiculously huge for macro on a m43 camera
it has the same issue on the other end of the spectrum where it overshoots even with an angled diffuser
i bought it cause i was doing nocturnal wildlife with a telephoto lens and needed lots of power/range

im torn between a godox v350 mini flash or a ring flash, but i think ill go with the latter

>Olympus 60mm macro
this is the one i see everyone using, but does it produce better images/ have a better DOF or is it just easier usability with the dial on it?
i feel like i can get the images i want on my current lens, its just a skill/lighting issue

>>4348031
I currently just use inbuilt flash with a diffuser so i can quickly switch back to my main telephoto setup
if you were to keep the ring flash always attached to the lens would it be that much more of a hassle than a regular flash and diffuser?

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>>
>>4348040
>does it produce better images/ have a better DOF or is it just easier usability with the dial on it?
From my limited experience with it: it's sharp as a tack for macro stuff, out of focus areas (of which there is a lot) are smooth, and focuses decently fast if it isn't in fixed focus mode, but the dial leaves me annoyed more often than not because I left it at the wrong setting and whenever you want to reset it to closest-focus 1:1 it's kind of a fumble to actually turn it since it kind of lines up with your thumb but the knurling on the knob is really wide and smooth so you have to use your thumb and first finger to really give it a twist anyway. Still sharp as a walk-around 60mm as well but- maybe it's just me- it seems to have some problems with weak contrast and bright flares, which I guess makes sense since it's designed around shooting stuff 2 inches away, not across the street.

By all means it seems like a fantastic lens, I'm just not skilled enough to use it properly.
>>
>>4348026
I had both nikon ones for a while when I was buying kit off ebay, using it for a bit then selling it on. They're nice if you're dedicated to macro work and want to shoot in the field. If you can position your subject on a background whitebox or something and it doesn't move, you can do without.

DESU I did a lot of macro and product style photography with anglepoise lamps and 100W incandescents and the results were fine once ran through PS. You don't need to go completely queer for gear to get good results. Just flood the subject with light and use a grey card.
>>
>>4348040
>rediculously huge for macro on a m43 camera
Yep, get a ring flash in that case. They're useful as shit but don't get the cheapest pos you find. Spend the $100-200 and get one that won't be wobbling around and has shit light diffusion. My main complaint with them is the fucking around when you need to take it off or swap lenses, but it's a worthy sacrifice for the extra light.
>DOF
Is a feature of physics and light. No lens is better than the other if all the variables are the same. Every 60mm lens at f/4 will give you the same DoF on the same sensor size.
>Olympus 60mm macro
Is sharp wide open from corner to corner, edge to edge. Weather sealed. Great AF. Focus lockout. Since you already have a 60mm lens, I wouldn't say it's a no brainer unless you're noticing colour fringing or noticable CA in your current lens. Those chink manual lenses are great for what they are but you might start noticing the optical imperfections, but if its sufficient then don't bother buying another 60mm unless you want the weather sealing
>>
>>4348055
>get a ring flash in that case
this is the one im looking at
https://www.amazon.com.au/dp/B07D7NGX87?th=1

there's also the godox ML-150II but it seems to have less features for a higher price, would probably have better build and diffusion though
macros not my main focus so i don't want to spend more on a flash than my actual lens, already wasted loads testing out different diffusers

does using a LED ring "flash" instead of a normal xenon flash cause any issues or still work fine?
>>
>>4348062
I would go with a traditional xenon ring flash for more predictable behaviour
>>
>>4348067
could you link any models im only finding LED ones
>>
>>4348069
https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/410484-USA/Nikon_4804_4804_R1_Wireless_Close_Up.html

It seems the specific one I was thinking of is no longer in production, hold on a bit
>>
>>4348069
I'm just searching here.

https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/products/ring-camera-light-macro-flash/

I personally have a godox flash and it works 'as advertised' so I can vouch for them. I've not used their ring lights. I've used the older Nikon macro flashes, both the ring type and the two-head type. They're both good. The ring type is a lot more portable and doesn't make your camera look completely ludicrous.
>>
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Fluffball type A

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>>
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Fluffball type B

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>>4348035
Thanks!
>>
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>>4348477
That looks crazy. Plants are fucked.

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>>
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I uploaded some of these backswimmers in the last thread. Now, around a month, they appear a lot greener. Could it be algae?

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Adult water skipper sucking on an ant, together with 3 nymphs, out of focus. The big guy had enough after a couple of minutes and started kicking at nymphs to gtfo.

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>>
File: P8179768.jpg (2.53 MB, 4608x3456)
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>>4349303

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>>4349304

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Thinking about it, that flower posted above looks delicious. Like candy.

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>>4349299
are you using flash? how are you managing the reflections onto the water?
greening could happen with age or mating seasons

>>4349303
this is awesome
>>
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>>4349465
Ive found that when they are hanging out at the surface like that its only really possible to avoid the reflection by shooting totally vertically, downwards. This way the camera or my head casts a shadow, dimming surface reflection. I lean over this bridge and wait for them to float by underneath. When I shoot stuff that is submerged or hanging out at the bottom, I can get away with shooting at an angle though as surface reflections don't matter too much.

Yes, I shoot with a flash. I get a lot of missed shots though. Sometimes the flash itself with reflect and fuck it up. My main problem (not just at the pond) is Ill often get mostly dark images. Dont know why. Maybe the lens casts a shadow in that instance? Or, maybe I need to over expose more when using a higher f-number (but then again, Ill randomly get a good image at the same f-number without changing any settings. Plus f8 is not particularly high with a flash and still it might be too dark)? I don't know. A lot of hit and miss. I think a proper diffuser would probably solve most of my issues.

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>>4349507
Have you tried a CPL filter?
They should help get rid of some reflections
>>
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>>4349510
>CPL filter
Never tried, but ill look into it.
But, how do I avoid shit like this. Its at the same fstop and settings as >>4349299 and taken only seconds apart. In that instance I get all the light and more, while here I get no light at from the flash? This happens for dry land subjects too.

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>>4349511
That sounds like a synchronization issue
I can't really help you there, I don't know how Olympus' menus work
>>
>>4349511
Yeah your flash isn't syncing; the burst of light isn't happening at the same time your shutter is open. Either that or somehow you're setting a sync speed too high but I can't think of any camera made in the last 30 years with a sync speed slower than 1/160th. You using a speedlite or inbuilt flash? I know the hotshoe flashes for the PEN series were a bit fucky but never heard of an EM-5 having flash issues.
>>
>>4349522
Using the FL‑LM3
>>4349515
My custom flash settings are
x-sync: 1/250
slow limit: 1/160
exposure comp. value added to flash comp. value. set to ON.
>>
>>4349526
Ah, that makes sense. That flash was in the kit for the EM-5 iirc. The FL-LM1 and LM2 were known to not be super reliable but apparently the FL-LM3 was great. Could just be a bad unit / damaged. Your flash settings look alright. Try setting a lower slow limit; something like 1/80th and then see if the problem pops up again. That really shouldn't be the issue but no harm in trying.
>>
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Something got hungry and took a few bites. Wasn't me, though. Google implies that's an amanita variant so I'm happy to stay away.

>>4349507
Unrelated to any advice, but those two snails near the middle looked like a pair of submerged and very surprised eyeballs at first glance and gave me a spook.

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>>
File: _1228428.jpg (877 KB, 2400x1600)
877 KB
877 KB JPG


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>>
File: _1228457.jpg (1.55 MB, 1799x2400)
1.55 MB
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>>4349966

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>>
File: IMG_20240819_203805136.jpg (1.36 MB, 3264x2448)
1.36 MB
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Using an old broken phone. There is no reason such a spider should exist.

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>>
File: 1606_s.jpg (310 KB, 2160x1440)
310 KB
310 KB JPG
>>4349696
Might be Amanita regalis. Similar to A. muscaria but more toxic.There actually are edible Amanitas but better be sure of proper identification before trying.

(So I tried to take snap of lbm.)

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>>
File: P8181914 - P8201935.jpg (2.06 MB, 1601x2402)
2.06 MB
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Some of the fungi bloomed- fruited?- today, but the bigger, flatter ones were already mostly eaten.
>two days apart: super mario twins, they look so goddamn like the same person
Hands still way too shaky for anything much smaller than this. Really should get a light, or a tripod, or both, I guess.

>>4350079
Neat! A quick Google says it probably isn't A. regalis since that's apparently a Euro species and I'm in the eastern US, but I'd rather not stick any of them in my mouth.

>>4349970
Nice toupee.

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>>
File: IMG_0006.jpg (318 KB, 3000x2000)
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>underexposed
>not enough DoF
>shutter speed too low + wind being a prick
Still like it. Might tweak the RAW

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>>
File: IMG_0006_v1.jpg (1.04 MB, 2939x1959)
1.04 MB
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>>4350185
Much better
>clean your sensor
Fucking hell.

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>>
File: P8200165_cr.jpg (1.7 MB, 4224x3456)
1.7 MB
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>>
File: P8200170 (2).jpg (2.08 MB, 4608x3456)
2.08 MB
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>>4350276

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>>
File: P8200025.jpg (2.25 MB, 4608x3456)
2.25 MB
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>>4349299
Found out, the colours are nicer on overcast days.

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>>
File: P8200033.jpg (2.17 MB, 4608x3456)
2.17 MB
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Some reflections in this one, but he was gone before I could get a better angle. Could do with a crop, maybe.

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>>
File: IMG_4857.jpg (2.2 MB, 2592x3888)
2.2 MB
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Holy shit; live view makes things easier.

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>>
I put a very dead grasshopper on a holographic foil gift bag

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>>
>>4350352
Crop

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>>
>>4350352
>>4350353
I prefer it uncropped. You can see more of the colours and the legs really 'attach' it to them.
>>
>>4350352
Looks like a molted skin of a grasshopper nymph
>>
>>4350382
That makes more sense
>>
File: IMG_9977.jpg (1.61 MB, 2400x1600)
1.61 MB
1.61 MB JPG
Textures are a fun thing, especially when you can't really see it from a normal viewing distance.

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>>
File: _1228656.jpg (1.12 MB, 2400x2400)
1.12 MB
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>>4350164
they're starting to look like muscarias IMO

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>>
File: _1228651.jpg (1.34 MB, 2400x2400)
1.34 MB
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>>4350657

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>>
File: P8201983.jpg (2.26 MB, 2304x1728)
2.26 MB
2.26 MB JPG
Blue! There was a half fairy ring of them but they were all already rotting, eaten or ripped out. Lactarius paradoxus? The region is right and they weren't as bright blue or blue-'bleeding' as L. indigo seems to be. In-camera focus stacking is interesting when it works (doesn't need as steady of a hand as I'd expect, surprisingly) but the final product being jpeg-only and having the Oly oversharpening is annoying.

>>4350657
Might be. I'll keep checking each day, see if they start flattening and turning red. There's a whole little world down there that I never really learned about before and that's pretty cool, almost makes having a lens more expensive than I can use properly worth it just for the identification rabbit-holes later.

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>>
File: P8210236_02.jpg (3.91 MB, 3456x4608)
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A bee ready to go to sleep. Wondering if she will have nightmares about flashes tonight.

On a serious note, what impact does a flash have on insect eyes?

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>>
>>4349507
The flash is distracting, but I actually really dig the hand reflections.
>>
File: IMG_20240822_153029022.jpg (1.54 MB, 3264x2448)
1.54 MB
1.54 MB JPG


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>>
File: _1228313_03.jpg (1.07 MB, 2400x1599)
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>>
File: file.png (4.59 MB, 1748x1332)
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>>
File: P1660192.jpg (1.02 MB, 4592x3448)
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eastern bearded dragon

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>>
File: DSC01713.jpg (1.47 MB, 1808x2099)
1.47 MB
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>>
File: IMG_9926.jpg (1.15 MB, 4640x5800)
1.15 MB
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>>
>>4351654
Does that neckbeard play dungeons and humans?
>>
>>4351626
gib exif pls
>>
File: file.png (4.56 MB, 1813x1208)
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>>4351696
not EXIF per se but here are the details:

Halyomorpha halys
Sony A7IV
Zeiss Jena Semiplan 6,3x/0,16
ISO100 - 1/8 sec
Zerene & PS
2 Continuous LED lights (13 W, 4000 K, 1521 lm)
DIY diffuser
335 photos
10 µm
MJKZZ Ultra Mini V2 Rail
>>
>>4351626
>>4351726
Unreal pics. I assume these are dead insects to be able to make such a large stack at a low shutter speed?
>>
>>4351814
That is correct, the insects are dead, there is an entire procedure when it comes to processing them (killing, cleaning, dehydrating, relaxing, mounting etc). I am pretty new to this though and still learning the basics.
>>
>>4351694
noice
>>
File: file.png (4.54 MB, 1964x1326)
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>>4351814
same shield bug as previous stack but different angle.
>>
File: 545468.jpg (2.07 MB, 2000x1314)
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>>4351871
400 shots and 3 hours of work
vs my handheld snap (not sharing full res)
>>4348477
clean

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>>4351895
Holy rockwell!
>>
File: 545991-1.jpg (724 KB, 999x575)
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>>4351896
rockwell natgeo

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>>4351895
Both of these images are mine btw. I like the snap but the highlights are a bit overblown.
>>
File: 545991-2.jpg (644 KB, 1333x889)
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>>4351910
nice shots man, do more flowers. have you tried shooting cannabis trichomes already? Tiny flashy minerals are also fantastic with your stacking technique.

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>>
>>4351916
Ehehehe duuuuude weeed lmao
>>
>>4351916
You read my mind. I've been thinking the exact same thing. I have no access to living fresh cannabis buds but I could try dried out weed. As for minerals let me know if you have specific suggestions. I would have to source them online.
>>
File: weedAI23422.jpg (143 KB, 1024x1024)
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>>4351996
don`t try dried, it is NOT worth it!
you have to know a grower or grow them yourself. self grow gives you much more time and the pictures will obviously be much better.
as for minerals there are market places where micro minerals are sold for crazy cheap, e-rocks dot com has good stuff.
the king thing to do is to find them in your own environment. check if there are deposits near you on mindat dot com
i wish i had more time and dedication for stacking..
>>4351934
what fa99ot
weed weeds out the weakling

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>>4352064
Thanks for the links, mindat looks particularly helpful to locate collection spots near me. I found an old low magnification manual stack of an amethyst stone I had since I was a kid. This discussion definitely sparked my interest even more.
>>
>>4352064
lmao dude weed
>>
>>4352301
This would look a literal million times nicer if you despeckled it, whether you have the patience to do that by hand I do not know

Try and automated despeckler
>>
>>4352334
I wonder if physically cleaning the rock would actually help with the speckles. Back when I made this stack it was more of an exercise to learn manual focus stacking. I think I might revisit this rock.
>>
File: file.png (4.99 MB, 1895x1225)
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>>4352064
Lead ore I think
>>
File: P1340101.jpg (1.07 MB, 1599x2400)
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doing some experiments with my smallest prime and the raynox 250
what do you guys think?

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>>
File: P1330924.jpg (1.49 MB, 2400x2400)
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>>4352990
I haven't had too many chances of using it today, so I'll keep trying

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>>
>>4352888
That reminds me of this series of backgrounds I took off deviantart and had on my phone for a while (picrel)
>>
File: IMG_8309.jpg (859 KB, 3914x2609)
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>>
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>>4353540

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>>
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Is this a bee?

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>>
File: 5E7A6754.jpg (4.94 MB, 3708x4636)
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Contact print. Toned with gold toner. I think the warm tone works really well with these images and makes them look more natural.

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>>
>>4353610
Oh my god, it has contrast
>>
>>4353613
Haha. The background is too bright for me, but it may be nice against the white mat. TBD.
>>
>>4353617
The background isn't too bright. That's too simple to be correct.

There's no lighting or added element creating contrast between the white parts of the bug and the background. And there's no lighting or scene element to create contrast between the dark parts of the bug and a dark background either. Unless:
You did a two tone background.

t. a better photographer than you
>>
>>4353618
Oh, you misunderstood me. I would prefer the background to be visibly gray rather than just near pure white. Very easily done with a little split contrast exposure if you had any experience in the darkroom.

It sounds more like you are a bitter nophoto than anything else. Thanks for the input anyways! :)
>>
>>4353623
That would look almost as bad as the usual also you have dog dirt in your contact print

have a nice day
>>
>>4353625
Hey, at least you gave up before embarrassing yourself as badly as you did yesterday. Very well done, nophoto. You're growing. I'm proud of you.

Maybe one day you'll have the courage to post a photo.
>>
>>4353553
Na looks like a fly of sorts
>>
File: DSC01764c.jpg (240 KB, 2000x1335)
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I am back to shooting macro after long break. Forgot how hard it was.
>>
>>4353553
Robberfly, probably.
https://bugguide.net/node/view/391774
>>
File: Serie142_100.jpg (302 KB, 2000x1335)
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Quite new to macro, kinda tedious but fun

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>>
>>4354718
'Quite new to macro' & produces a natgeo grade image

k
>>
>>4354718
it is tedious as fuck ive found
cant just take a quick snap you gotta spend ages getting the focus while your bug keeps moving
>>
>>4354718
It can get even more tedious than that if you get into focus stacking. I still can't figure out how to fix ghosting.

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>>
>>4354762
Strong flash +f/32. Don't kill your subjects like some people mention otherwise you're a cunt.
>>
>>4354775
ive just been using f8 this whole time am i retarded
f22 is my max what flash power range would you use?

dont you get diffraction or some shit with high f count
>>
>>4354724
It's just a fly m8, also I've been into other kinds of photography for a while now
>>4354770
The result can look so good, but I'm not ready to go through the hassle desu
>>
>>4354829
If you're lacking depth of field then some softening from diffraction is preferable to the subject just being out of focus. However if f/8 is giving you enough depth of field and you're just struggling to get focus nailed then you don't have to stop down, you can still get sharp results and just increase your chances of getting accurate focus by shooting bursts while slightly moving the camera back and forth. If you're using a flash then using a wider aperture actually makes this easier, as you'll be using the flash at a lower power and the recycle time will be quicker and a shorter flash duration to better freeze motion.
>>
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>>4354829
Doesn't matter how clincally sharp your subject is if it's out of focus. Diffraction is acceptable in macro shots since it's you get sweet fuck all in focus even if you hit it perfectly. That's why a lot of bug shots only have the head in focus even at f/22. Diffraction is acceptable.

You're not a retard mang, just gotta learn and practice is all. You don't always need to pin your aperture to the narrowest setting, but is should be a consideration. If you have E-TTL flash then don't overthink it and only adjust if shots are over or under exposed. If using manual flash I would set it to maximum power and only lower it if the lighting is super harsh, or you're using high fps drive; your flash needs time to recharge and at 1/1 power my speedlite needs like 3 seconds to recharge, whereas at 1/16th I can get 12~fps.

Use a tripod if suitable, and get a speedlite if your inbuilt flash is not powerful enough / too harsh. If I'm retarded and try to take macro shots with my speedlite at home, I end up with slightly fucky camera settings such as:
>pic rel
f/13
1/80th
ISO 200
On a windy day and at around 1:3 magnifcation

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>>
File: image.jpg (427 KB, 2000x1335)
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dead grass snek

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>>
>>4354770
hey you are that dude that posts in the extreme macro group on boomerbook. Not sure about your ghosting problem but you can wash your wasps in a mild detergent and then dehydrate them in neat alcohol. This should get rid of all the tiny flakes and dust and shit from them
>>
>>4354679
Thank you, friend.
I've never seen one around here before.
>>
>>4354887
What do you mean by mild detergent? Like SLS and water?
>>
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Jumping spider with lunch on my chilli plant
>>
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>>4355000
I love those guys, sadly I don't see that many

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>>
File: _1228311_02.jpg (636 KB, 2400x1599)
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>>4355025

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>>
>>4354934
SLS is not exactly mild but it will probably get the job done especially if you don't go above a couple of %. Otherwise try a solution of dish wash detergent. I had very positive results with a 10% solution of a radioactive decontamination agent called Count-off. I also suspect that potassium hydroxide might work well but can't confirm, just a hunch, Also consider getting an ultrasonication bath, they go for around 40-50 USD on amazon. So to recap, you soak the bugs in the detergent solution, sonicate (optional), rinse in clean water, dehydrate in neat alcohol (ethanol or isopropanol).
>>
File: file.png (4.14 MB, 1629x1086)
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Bornite crystal, its a copper iron sulfide with a thin oxide layer that produces the color.
>>
>>4355031
That's clearly rockwellite crystal.
>>
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>>4355033
Please elaborate, I don't get the reference. Also, galena crystal,
>>
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Was too scared to get any closer and didn't use a flash. Not sure how dangerous disturbing a feeding hornet is
>>
File: _1227890.jpg (589 KB, 2400x1599)
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>>4355028

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>>
File: IMG_4333-abandoned-mine.jpg (1.93 MB, 1920x2560)
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>>4355033
It was in reference to Ken rockwell. The notorious boomer camera reviewer who classically posts incredibly oversaturated photographs.
>>
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>>4355034

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>>
>>4355043
Lmfao.
>>
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>>4355040
>>4355043
lol, ok I get it now. Also, pyromorphite.
>>
>>4347929
very pleasing to look at, and the moth makes a very very nice silhoutte shape
i think you're right about the series being a good idea, would love to see these framed, five seems better than three
>>
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>>
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There was a bug photo bombing i didnt notice until checking them out on the pc.

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>>
File: forest_floor_004.jpg (1.11 MB, 2784x1856)
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>>4350666
I saw them everywhere last weekend.

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>>
File: forest_floor_003.jpg (1.28 MB, 2784x1856)
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>>4359196

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>>
File: forest_floor_002.jpg (918 KB, 2784x1856)
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>>
File: _1547870.jpg (2.82 MB, 1440x1800)
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>>
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File: _1250641_03.jpg (514 KB, 1800x1800)
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>>
File: _1262483.jpg (2.78 MB, 1800x1349)
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where are you fags hiding?

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>>
File: img272 (1).jpg (2.26 MB, 3141x2670)
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>>4355060
Peep this salt. Had the idea to evaporate salt water on a glass plate and take an 8x10 shot of somewhere it had some semblance of composition.

>>4360719
In fgt. :( I posted it there, but I worked on the editing a little more.

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>>
>>4360952
I guess there's more activity than here
Even though, /p/ feels deader than usual lately
>>
>>4361772
I'll post a good scan of the print I made on here. Fgt got my phone Pic of the print because sometimes I like talking shop with them more than posting my work in a somewhat high quality manner.
>>
File: 2 image stack.jpg (2.7 MB, 4533x3400)
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Christmas jewel spider

first shot im happy with after using the ring flash
i keep overexposing but ill figure it out
>>
File: IMG_6150.jpg (2.9 MB, 3456x3456)
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Dug this out of my foot.

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>>
>>4362900
Very good. Interesting subject with a proper level of DoF. Would be nice to see exif but I get everyone would bitch about one thing or another.
>>
>>4360952
I like the salt! Try different crystals too, if you have stuff like citric acid and such lying around. Also do you happen to have polarizers (as in polarizing film or in filter form)?
>>
>>4362910
sorry stacking in photoshop removed the exif
i was using a 7artisians 60mm lens at ~f11 or more
can't remember what flash power
>>
File: file.png (4.97 MB, 1752x1168)
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I dissolved my old phone in boiling acid and had a look at the silicon chips with a 10x Plan Apo I recently bought.
>>
>>4362946
very cool, is this just the actual CPU or an entire circuit board?
looks like alien technology or weird farm crops from a birds eye view
>>
File: file.png (4.53 MB, 1738x1158)
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>>4362964
I think its just some integrated circuit. I am certainly no expert but the image shown in this post might be the CPU (it was the biggest or second biggest die I extracted). The structures taking up most of the image might be the cache memory.
>>
>>4362946
>>4362987
Neat, did you 3D print an adapter or use bellows?
>>
>>4363009
I used a set of extension tubes with threaded adapters to connect the microscope objective to a tube lens together with the camera at the opposite end.
>>
>>4363081
How didn't I think of that before, that's genius.
>>
>>4362934
I was thinking of trying some other stuff, yeah. Maybe even evaporated film chemistry.

I have a polarizer, but of course I totally forgot about it the one time it would have been useful.
>>
>>4363086
It shouldn't make a huge difference whether you use 3D-printed DIY parts, bellows, or an extension tube system, as long as two key criteria are met: the components need to be well-centered (parcentric), and the distance between the camera sensor and tube lens must be smoothly adjustable to match the focal length of the tube lens—especially important when using infinity-corrected objectives. To achieve this, I like to use thin layers of Teflon tape on the male thread of one of the adapters, which creates a tight, secure connection for precise distance adjustments.

>>4363111
Evaporated film chemistry sounds fascinating—I'd love to see your results. Just a reminder about the polarizer: it won't work with isotropic crystal lattices, like table salt, but most other crystalline substances should work well to create vivid interference colors.
>>
>>4362987
>>4362946
satanic
>>
File: MDR10118-edit-3-2.jpg (1.01 MB, 1280x1920)
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I don't do much macro. I couldn't focus stack because of the wind (hate focus stacking anyway), and I probably should've stopped down further than f5.6.
>>
>>4363299
Good job regardless. May I ask why you don't like stacking? I always recommend a speedlite if people want to get more DoF handheld.
>>
>>4363463
The speedlite sounds like a good idea. Thank you.

I just find stacking to be extremely tedious. It doesn't help that my macro lens has very strong focus breathing.
>>
File: DSC01233.jpg (2.71 MB, 3000x2000)
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Took one of my guns apart for cleaning and thought it'd be neat to take some pictures of the gunk inside. Probably should've gotten my tripod out so I could do try focus stacking but this was on a whim and I wasn't thinking much of it, maybe next time.

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>>
File: IMG_0002_v1B.jpg (159 KB, 1188x1188)
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Repost from another thread.
>>4363505
Ah current gen Canons can do it in camera which is a godsend. Can even do it handheld if you're not suffering from parkinsons and have a decently fast shutter speed. The issue is that anything that moves which is you know, basically living or in the wind.

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>>
>>4362900
Whats it like using a ring flash vs normal flash in practice? Can you still shoot at the same high shutter speeds as with a flash?
>>
>>4363616
Same tech, no real differences. If it has HSS it should be good to go for higher shutter speeds just like a speedlite would. Would be the same as your normal flash sync without HSS. Ring flashes are a bit annoying imo since they require adapter rings be mounted and I ain't about that. You also don't have as much control over light direction as you would with a proper speedlite, but if your goal is just to get enough light to a macro subject, they're fantastic.
>>
File: P1670579.jpg (1.2 MB, 4592x3448)
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Hi-browed Crab Spider

>>4363616
it's a lot more ergonomic, i was using the guitar pic style diffuser before and it would shift around with the focus/aperture rings
i wasn't able to get shots from all angles with my previous flash setup, with this i can

the modeling lights right at the tip of the lens help massively, its never too dark
its got an independent left and right flash that you can individually adjust the power on for more lighting control

the main downside for me is you have to manually set flash power, there's no auto mode. this might just be my model tho
the ring reflection is bad for human/animal eyes and surfaces like water, but i found it to be hardly noticeable on insects

truthfully though it's just as annoying to swap to from my main birding lens, unless i see a very interesting bug i cbf

>Can you still shoot at the same high shutter speeds as with a flash?
yes its just like a normal flash

>>4363643
>they require adapter rings be mounted
i just keep mine permanently attached and bought a lens cap that fits the ring
takes up more space in backpack though

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>>
File: P1350938.jpg (1.02 MB, 1439x1800)
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>>4360719

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>>
File: P1360084.jpg (802 KB, 1800x1351)
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>>4364115

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>>
>>4363574
Why are butterflys so hard to get sharp photos of?
>>
>>4364144
At macro distances your DoF is lets say, 0.8mm at f/16 (slightly guessing but not far from that). Butterflies are also very light and are thrown around by the wind, along with their usual perches of leaves and flowers.

I also should have shot at something like ISO 400 and f/16 instead of f/5.6. So basically user error.
>>
>>4364153
I'm just getting into close-up macro, unfortunately only lens I have for it is a 70 - 300mm lens. It's butterfly season, maybe I'll focus on them and toy with the higher f stop. For some reason I never thought of that, I never really go above f8.
>>
>>4364159
I recommend a cheap exenstion tube ring, a speedlite and keeping your FL at 70mm. If your inbuilt flash reaches the subject beyond the lens you can forego the speedlite. With your flash you can achieve high f/ stops like f/16-32 and a high enough shutter speed so wind isn't a bitch. ISOs slightly above 100 are acceptable if your shutter speed is too low, but I would not shoot below f/11 for macro.
>>
>>4364168
Is macro always supposed to be about super detail and high exposures?
>>
>>4364292
Not entirely certain what you mean exactly, but getting sharp and detailed shots is rather challenging and doubly so if it's alive, so I believe why thats the go-to
>>
File: stacked but.jpg (3.32 MB, 4510x3382)
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>>4364144
>>4364153
idk what kind of dopey butterflies you guys get, but for me it is near impossible to get close enough with an actual macro lens
while telephoto obviously has less detail i think it's fine for butterflies

>>4364292
macros for small shit you can't get close enough to focus on with another lens
it doesn't have to be tiny like a bug, lots of people use macro on mushrooms for example
you can also use some macro lenses for portraits
>>
>>4364511
>>4364309
Compare:
>>4359196
To
>>4350657

One is well lit, highly detailed, the other is dark and rather vague, both are sharp tho.

Is shooting macro about the detail, and being detail focused, and less about composition and lighting?
>>
File: img265.jpg (4.25 MB, 3604x3604)
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>>4364522
It entirely depends on what you are going for, but I would say that all the standard qualities of a good photograph still apply.

Sharpness doesn't need to resolve sub micron detail or get absolutely 100% of everything in focus, but it should also not be distracting or take away from the image.

There are parts of this crop from one of my 8x10 shots that are not I'm focus, and it doesn't take away from the image. Also consider that at a 1:1 print the butterfly eye is only about .25 inch tall, so zooming in super close is the equivalent of looking at an enormous print. You can see that the cells of the eye are resolved, but you cannot see them at all on a contact print.

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>>
>>4364522
one of the main benefits of a macro lens is the detail yes
lighting is still very important for macro, most people use a flash and diffuser
composition depends on how close you are, for super close ups its pretty hard to do anything but a centre composition
on insects you get 1 shot from above, one shot of the face straight on, and maybe one shot of the side depending on the bug
>>
File: IMG_0528.jpg (472 KB, 5759x3839)
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>>
>>4364522
>>4364522
Just like other forms of photography, composition and lighting still matter. The real problem is that the light physics of macro shots robs you of so much light that getting "interesting" or "well balanced" lighting is difficult. Same problem goes for why composition is normally a secondary consideration, since if you're photographing a bug or whatnot it's going to move around and you only have a few seconds at best for a decent shot.

Macro can still be about other things like miniature environments, textures, artificial worlds... the reason you see a lot of flowers and bugs is because it's immediately interesting and rewarding when they're the subject. See >>4362946. Very interesting and not a typical macro shot.
>>
File: IMG_0007_v1.jpg (347 KB, 1500x1000)
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A slice of bread straight from the package. Little bits of microplastic and fibers all over the damn thing.

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>>
File: amber.png (2.43 MB, 1400x2600)
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im new to photography so my apologies if this doesnt count as macroo but here's a pic of a stonefly in amber i took
>>
>>4364749
>microplastic
What would you say is microplastic within that image?
>>
>>4364749
If you've ever been in a bread plant you'd be surprised there isn't more. Every single piece of processing equipment is visibly worn plastic. Where does the plastic go when it wears out? Oh, you know.
>>
File: 172710745551290367.jpg (933 KB, 3034x2010)
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>>4365022
havent properly edited/colored these images in Lightroom. Just clicked the auto button and moved a slider or two. But I think they’re fine as is

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Color Space InformationsRGB
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File: 172730525991968718.jpg (1.48 MB, 3696x2448)
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File: 172688945576610224.jpg (2.22 MB, 3696x2448)
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>>4365026
Me in the morning.
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File: 172684122503667017.jpg (1.52 MB, 3696x2448)
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[EXIF data available. Click here to show/hide.]
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