Please help me, I want to take indoor pictures like this, I have a fixed wide angle, but I can't get this quality. What lens do you think I can use to get a photo like this?
here is an other example
hdr bracketing
>>4374855Tripod, f8, time of day when the sun is low, heavy perspective correcting in ps
>>4374857Exposure bracketing is the key, and you either merge it by hand with masking or use an AI program. Do as many increments as your camera allows, 5 or 7 exposures by 1 stop. Use a tripod and self-timer so every frame is identical. There are more advanced techniques that introduce aimed flashes.
what does your current quality look like?my company used to do exposure bracketing but now just has everyone do one shot since recent cameras have big dynamic range
>>4374873what camera will properly do the windows and the shadows in the same exposure?
>>4374866>>4374870HDR without being an asshole>>4374885None. Because you'll need like 20 stop. 12 or 14 are not enough.
>>4374855post some of your pics so we can see what needs to change
>>4374855iphone max pro
OP here"What I really want to know is, which lens should I use? I want to capture as much information as possible without the corners and objects getting distorted due to the wide-angle lens.Even with lens correction in Lightroom, I can't avoid that distortion at the edges of the image.I'm including two images, both taken from the same spot: one with a Rokinon 14mm F2.8 and the other with a Rokinon AF 35mm F1.8. As you can see, with the wide-angle lens, the furniture and lamp look stretched, whereas with the 35mm, the shape of the objects is maintained, but I get less information.Regarding bracketing, highlights, or shadows, I'm not concerned. I'm about to buy a Tilt-Shift lens, and I want to know if that lens would help me solve the problem, or if I can avoid this optical effect with another lens of a different angle.Thank you.
This is the second example picture with an Rokinon AF 35 mm F1.8
The main difference between your photos and the examples you have posted is the position of the photographer : don't put yourself in a corner, try positioning in the middle of a wall. And try being there early in the morning or during sundown.
>>4375176Are you taking photos for real estate listings? There's going to be distortion on ultra wide focal lengths. It's a photograph, it's a representation of reality, it's not reality. The viewer understands this. If you need to include more information then you have to accept distortion. If you can't accept any distortion then you have to take multiple photographs of the same room. Try to ensure your camera is flat and level to reduce potential perspective distortion.What are you going to do to get far enough away to use a narrower focal length, knock down the walls? Rent a crane or helicopter? You're taking a photo of the room you are standing in, you don't have much choice.You also need to get a polarizing filter to remove glare from floors and windows. These photos are dominated by the blown out sky, reflections, and reflections of reflections (the glass door reflecting the mirror which is itself reflecting the glass door).
>>4375176I would consider trying the Sigma 24/3.5. You don't need large apertures for your work and from what I just checked its distortion isn't too bad (the 24/2 was much worse it has BARREL distortion somehow). Fixing lens distortion in post is like two clicks and you should be able to set up a lens profile to do it automatically. I don't know how much use T/S lenses have indoors but there might be something there I guess. Your shots show some skill but as >>4375184 observes you have to get out of the corner. I'm going to link you to a really good guy on youtube who talks about architectural photography. Check this video out and look up his one on key compositions. It's super important stuff.https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jVRR7_pgn0E>>4375177I know you're just posting examples for the sake of illustration but for what it's worth here the 35mm lens is perfectly adequate for showing off the room. Are you on Sony crop or full frame?[EXIF data available. Click here to show/hide.]Camera-Specific Properties:Equipment MakeSONYCamera ModelILCE-7M3Camera SoftwareILCE-7M3 v4.01Maximum Lens Aperturef/2.8Focal Length (35mm Equiv)90 mmImage-Specific Properties:Image OrientationTop, Left-HandHorizontal Resolution350 dpiVertical Resolution350 dpiImage Created2021:10:08 15:09:02Exposure Time1/90 secF-Numberf/4.0Exposure ProgramAperture PriorityISO Speed Rating1250Brightness3.3 EVExposure Bias0 EVMetering ModePatternLight SourceOtherFlashNo Flash, CompulsoryFocal Length90.00 mmColor Space InformationsRGBImage Width1148Image Height1148RenderingNormalExposure ModeAutoWhite BalanceManualScene Capture TypeStandardContrastNormalSaturationNormalSharpnessNormal
>>4375204I'm a moron I just remembered that barrel distortion is the normal one for wideangles. The 24/3.5 has mild pincushion distortion.
>>4375204thank you very much, here are other photos taken from the front
>>4375204Here is other example, where I don't know how to avoid this distortion.
>>4374855>>4375176>I can't get this qualityThose have quite moody, lighting. The look you want is evening sun, single point perspective. With single point perspective you really need to pay close attention to your lines in your image being straight, and hopefully you can find some left-to-right symmetry as well. In the first image, I would have moved the camera a bit to the right so the beam in the centre of the ceiling is in the centre of the image. Doing this also makes it easier to get all of your vertical lines straight. >What lens do you think I can use to get a photo like thisAperture won't matter, since you'll ideally be shooting at f/8 or 9 anyway. I would get a wide angle zoom. Personally I use a 16-28mm on full frame. That way you have an extra variable you can change when framing, and you dont need to constantly be changing lenses. If you're shooting rooms in a normal sized house, wider is really useful. I wouldnt want to go any longer than 16 on the short end. Also, always use a tripod. I can't stress enough how important it is to get your lines straight. Even if I get something as good as I can in camera, I will still end up using a bit of perspective distortion in LR. Lens correction is also very useful.>I'm about to buy a Tilt-Shift lens, and I want to know if that lens would help me solve the problemTo fix edge sharpness? No, tilt-shifts are for a unique sort of perspective correction, which can be done in post albeit at a slight cost to image quality in affected areas. Part of the reason they're not really making them anymore. As the other anon said, pretty much any wide-angle lenses are going to have some softness around the edges. The best remedy for this, if you're willing to spend the money, is a modern mirrorless full frame camera with a modern expensive lens. The shorter focal flange distance aids a bit in the construction of wide angles versus DSLR counterparts. That and they're just newer lenses with better optics.[EXIF data available. Click here to show/hide.]Camera-Specific Properties:Equipment MakeCanonCamera ModelCanon EOS 5D Mark IIMaximum Lens Aperturef/2.8Image-Specific Properties:Exposure Time1/25 secF-Numberf/8.0Exposure ProgramAperture PriorityISO Speed Rating100Lens Aperturef/8.0Exposure Bias-1.7 EVMetering ModePatternFlashNo Flash, CompulsoryFocal Length16.00 mmWhite BalanceAuto
>>4374855>>4374856>>4375305Look into a tilt-shift lens, or even better, a technical camera (you can mount a DSLR or Mirrorless camera to them using an adapter, you don't have to use film)They're the only way to correct perspective in-camera, it's one of the most important photographic techniques in architecture, and it's a ton of funDo be aware it will also shift the focal plane though, so higher apertures may be necessary, but you're on tripod already
>>4375305What distortion are you having a issue with? All of the photos you've posted look fine to me, everything is reasonably straight.
Exposure blending
