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>what is the best black and white developer and why is it XTOL?
It's LC29.

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>what is the best black and white developer and why is it XTOL?

i only ever used rodinal. i heard its not good for fast film though? what should i use for that? my main concern is shelf life

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haven't shot much in the past two months

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File: Somewhere In Canada (1).jpg (3.86 MB, 2028x2048)

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From last summer, I haven't gotten around to digitizing most of what I shot.

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>>4395784
hair

>>4395786
No, tear.

>>4395786
>human hair anon

>>4395784
This would be such a cool shot if film didnt ruin it

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>>4395799

Here ya go, fixed.

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>>4395803
Nope still film

Its the lenses, they lack 3d pop unless you use 500mp 4x5 to make an 8mp 8x10

>>4395784
Are you shooting 65mm film?

>>4395804
you clearly don't know what you're talking about
stop watching youtubers and parroting their buzzwords and actually learn photography

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>>4395806

Yeah, respooled by one of my friends.

>>4395808

Not even worth a (You), don't waste your time on him.

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>>4395819
Onto 120 spools? Your friend is crazy.

>>4395820

Yeah, totally worth it. Sells them to me for 10 dollars a roll. I think he sells them for 15 otherwise. Time consuming as fuck especially since he's got to cut them down too.

>>4395823
After some practice it probably isn't too bad to cut and tape the film to backing paper. Still crazy. Is that 50D? I've shot some vision3 in 65mm/70mm aerial with a proper 70mm film back on a mamiya rb67. Super nice, but those damn film backs are so freaking finicky.

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This picture is taken with HP5 (box speed) and developed in Ilfosol 3. I find these results very pleasing to look at, the grain looks nice and the sharpnes is just enough with film.
I am just thinking maybe I should change my developer into something else, maybe Rodinal or DDX, since people say it is better and much more suitable with HP5. Some people even say that Ilfosol 3 is bad with Hp5 and bad all around developer. I just don't know what is right in this hobby any longer.

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>>4395838
Start printing your images with an enlarger and doing test shots developed in different developers. You can sort of divide film into T grain vs. Traditional and test how they react to developers like that.

>>4395838
>what is right in this hobby
there's no right/wrong if you like the look of your photos but there are different ways to achieve your style so you can do research and then test out a developer that gives you what you want

personally I've only ever used rodinal and the Tmax Developer clone and those two work great for me, both one shot developers to cover conventional and tabular grain films

>>4395825

Actually 250D! But I want to try E100D since he bought a roll.

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i've been looking for a while now at different lightweight, compact mechanical 120 cameras with a wide angle lens for backpacking trips. i tried out a horseman convertible recently which seemed to fit the bill perfectly, but it had slow shutter speed issues so i returned it to the seller. fuji gsw690 is a little too bulky, and fuji gs645w is unreliable (i already have a gs645s that i've had to get repaired twice, not going to get fooled again).

all i can think of now are the makina w67 and hasselblad swc. makina w67 has a reputation of fragility but not sure how much of it is actually deserved, seems like a lot of it is people mistreating the folder rather than it just failing out of nowhere. swc is a little clunky and heavier but looks very solid, it's just that ultrawide squares are tricky.

anyone mess with these or other cameras? i'm aware if i went a standard focal length i'd have more options with vintage folders or tlrs. electronics would open up the mamiya 6 or fuji gf670w but the idea of one of these bricking in the middle of nowhere is terrifying

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>>4395838
grain looks nice with Rodinal
I recently shot Fomapan 400 at 800 and developed with Rodinal 25+1 for 10 minutes
I think it looked great but for some it would be too grainy

>>4395847
You could always try out a graflex swxl. Basically the same thing as a horseman convertible. What was wrong with the horseman?

The other option is using something like a sinar handy with a 120 back on it sans grip. More bulky than the convertible, but it packs fairly well and you can use a 47mm super angulon with a 69 back, and get full coverage. The handy also fits a 612 back if you wanted, or you can get a sinar zoom film back that let's you choose any 120 format from 645 to 612 and change crop midroll with auto calculated spacing. Very pricey, but really cool.

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I've shot 4 rolls on chrismas, lot of scanning to do
I've done this 15min exposure on a balcony
turned out pretty crazy, there was a fog so the bottom is overexposed

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>>4395852
in regards to the 47mm angulons i had considered the brooks veriwide 100 before, which is a lot more compact than the xlsw and handy. my concern with those is the uncoated optics and f8 aperture making handholding difficult, as well as difficulty of finding one in good condition. but actually the more i look at sample photos on flickr and elsewhere the more i like the look.

the horseman had a really strange issue with the slow shutter speeds where they would fire perfectly when the shutter was cocked level or pointed downwards, but if you cocked the shutter while the camera was inclined even a little upwards, the slow shutter speeds would fire instantly. basically if i wanted to use the slow speeds (think 1/8 or slower) on a tripod, i would need to remember to point the camera downwards to cock the shutter and then recompose. i have no clue if that was actually a defect but i could find no mention of it in the manual. if i'm being honest this would've been extremely minimal impact for 99.9% of my photography but nowadays i take no chances, especially if i'm within a return window.

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tried out psychedelic blues, pretty neat little film. shot with a Bigfinder 35 AF

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>>4395871

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>>4395872

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>>4395873

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>>4395874
it has a few other effects besides square/circles but a lot of those are family/friends so I don't plan to post them here

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>>4395875
and of course there's no way to know in advance which effects will be on which frames. still fun and worth a shoot if you want to spice up your shooting

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Olympus Pen EE-3

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>>4395868
That is a bizarre problem. Probably a missing spring or something. Kinda sucks. Those look like fun cameras.

I really like my uncoated super angulons. The 47mm I have is really quite nice if you don't get near the edge of its projection. Pic is a 4x5 shot with the 47mm angulon. She wide.

You could also simply ball out like a madman and purchase this sinar lantec kit for 15 grand, lol. Widest lens is a whopping 23mm. Check the projections on the lenses because they may only work with 645. You would need an adapter to go to something like a mamiya 645 film back, which they do sell.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/326385551842

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>>4395682

>slow films better than fast

fuck you im sticking with kentmere 400

>>4395896
amazing reading capabilities, anon

>thread question

genuinely prefer barry thornton's two bath developer. on roll film you can get a wide range of contrasts and you can actually use the zone system (if youre a nerd)

for 4x5 it also helps with maintaining shadow detail while also fully developing the highlights (same with roll film but it really shines thru with large format)

bath A:
80g sodium sulfite
6.5g metol
30g typical table salt

bath b:
12g sodium metaborate
OR
7.8g sodium carbonate

each bath gets 4.5 minutes at 20 degrees C regardless of film, as long as you know that film's true iso (ie catlabs 80 is more like an iso 30-50 film, hp5 genuinely a 400 speed film) w/ normal agitation. no prewash or any rinse between a and b bath. stop as normal and fix as normal. pour each bath back into its bottle and be careful not to contaminate bath A with bath B.

should last around 10 rolls or 40 4x5 sheets or 10 8x10 sheets. stock lasts at least 6 months (my oldest stock was 6 months).

400 iso and above may work better at 5 minutes in both but i just like having iso 100s in my tank as well so i stick to 4.5 in both.

i've had kentmere 400, 100, hp5, delta 100, 400, 3200, and t max 100 in there and all my negatives came out great. even mix and matching rolls in tanks came out fine.

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Waiting for film to dry is the most shitass part.

Based on the negatives alone though, I think the massive dev time for Arista (Foma) 400 at 320 in XTOL 1+1 is a tad short. I dev'd about half this batch of 4x5 sheets at the recommended 8 minutes, and the other half at 8'30", and the 8 minute batch seems a tad thin.

>>4395931
If you have a hair dryer you can use that to dry them in like 3 minutes. Rubber gloves are a good idea, and don't let the film get too hot.

>>4395931
photoflo helps a lot.

always hated inverting phone pics of my negs. never works out well for me at least

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>>4395932
It's too late to scan them anyway, gotta work tomorrow so I might as well just let them dry normally at this point.

>>4395933
Sometimes it can give you at least some kind of idea of how they're going to turn out once properly scanned.

>>4395894
Love the dynamic range

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"Don't worry bro, I promise not to drown you all again. I'll just incinerate you instead." t.God

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>>4395850
That's interesting, what kind of results did you get?
I have been thinking of starting to shoot more Fomapan since the price of Hp5 seems to be too damn high. Man I wish I would know how to bulk load, so I could save some money on film.

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>>4395860
Really like this one

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>>4395931
>>4395934
it's better to hang your negatives from a corner, so that the water gets concentrated in a single point and drops, instead of having it like you hung, which can make water accumulate on tge bottom and dry there, causing stains
>>4395989
bulk loading is just about buying a bulk loader and a can of film, there's not much of a technique
get one and start doing it, it's cheaper in the long run

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>>4395993
thx
another one, 10 minutes on an old cemetery, cropped of course because I can't compose for shit in the darkness with a shitty tripod

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>>4395894
yeahhh i think ill just decide between the makina and swc then lol. probably going to try out the makina first, 55mm on 6x7 is a lot more reasonable than 38mm on 6x6. another issue with the swc is how to attach a lightmeter, i'd have to get one of those hood cold shoe clips to stick one on the front of the lens. also swc prices are crazy, at least for the cf versions.

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>>4396003
>I can't compose for shit in the darkness with a shitty tripod
skill issue

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how come no photos i'm taking on this camera seem to be in focus? f3 with a 35mm lens. am i just terrible with this lens/camera only because everything else I take looks normal

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>>4396038
have you tried other lenses with the same body? or this lens on another body?
maybe your viewfinder is misaligned, which would explain images looking sharp on it and misfocused on the film itself

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I took 2 photos this saturday, one after the other but a couple hours apart, and they came out quite perfectly aligned by chance
>the joys of photography

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>>4396039
the lens seems okay on another body, at least from the LCD preview on a digital, i'll get one big screen to see for sure. i haven't yet tested another lens yet on this F3, that was my next step, as i had a suspect feeling something was off on it.

even at F8 or so, looking to get as much in focus as I can with a fast shutter speed, it just still looks funky.

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>>4396047
put the lens on the digital body, stick it on a tripod, focus on something at a certain distance, switch for the analog camera, and see if it's still in focus (the film plane and the sensor plane should be at the same place but it won't matter that much changing a couple inches for something at a reasonable distance
then check if the thing is still in focus
do it as a quick but not exhaustive test

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Fun with a red filter

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>>4396050

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>>4396051

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Vertical Resolution	300 dpi
Image Data Arrangement	Chunky Format
Exposure Time	1/125 sec
F-Number	f/0.0
Exposure Program	Aperture Priority
ISO Speed Rating	160
Exposure Bias	0.3 EV
Metering Mode	Pattern
Light Source	Unknown
Flash	No Flash, Compulsory
Focal Length	0.00 mm
Rendering	Normal
Exposure Mode	Auto
Scene Capture Type	Standard
Gain Control	Low Gain Up
Saturation	Normal
Sharpness	Normal
Image Quality	Unknown
White Balance	Auto
Focus Mode	Manual
Spot Mode	Unknown
Image Stabilizer	Off
Macro Mode	Normal
Shooting Mode	Aperture Priority
Audio	No
Flash Bias	0.00 EV
Color Effect	Off
Contrast	Unknown
Noise Reduction	Standard

File: P1090051.jpg (1.92 MB, 4006x2562)

1.92 MB JPG

>>4396052

[EXIF data available. Click here to show/hide.]

Camera-Specific Properties:
Equipment Make	Panasonic
Camera Model	DMC-G6
Camera Software	RawTherapee 5.9
Maximum Lens Aperture	f/1.0
Sensing Method	One-Chip Color Area
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Image-Specific Properties:
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Exposure Time	1/160 sec
F-Number	f/0.0
Exposure Program	Aperture Priority
ISO Speed Rating	160
Exposure Bias	0 EV
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Focal Length	0.00 mm
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Gain Control	Low Gain Up
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Image Stabilizer	Off
Macro Mode	Normal
Shooting Mode	Aperture Priority
Audio	No
Flash Bias	0.00 EV
Color Effect	Off
Contrast	Unknown
Noise Reduction	Standard

scanning is the worst

File: IHATESCANNING.jpg (3.34 MB, 2160x2081)

3.34 MB JPG

>>4396074

[EXIF data available. Click here to show/hide.]

Camera-Specific Properties:
Camera Software	Negative Lab Pro
Image-Specific Properties:
Horizontal Resolution	72 dpi
Vertical Resolution	72 dpi
Image Created	2024:12:31 22:01:07
Color Space Information	sRGB

File: Bench.1.4x5 copy.jpg (2.9 MB, 2500x2000)

2.9 MB JPG

Might have gone a bit too aggressive with the tilt or not aggressive enough with the aperture on this one. The effect I was going for is there and kinda neat, but maybe a little too much there.

[EXIF data available. Click here to show/hide.]

Camera-Specific Properties:
Equipment Make	Panasonic
Camera Model	DC-G9
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Maximum Lens Aperture	f/2.8
Sensing Method	One-Chip Color Area
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Exposure Time	1/320 sec
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Exposure Bias	0 EV
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Flash	No Flash, Compulsory
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White Balance	Manual
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Gain Control	Low Gain Up
Contrast	Normal
Saturation	Normal
Sharpness	Normal

File: Hi-LineBridge.4x5.2.jpg (2.9 MB, 2500x2000)

2.9 MB JPG

I was a bit too slow to catch the locomotive on this one, would have made for a better shot. Just need more practice working the crown graphic faster.

[EXIF data available. Click here to show/hide.]

Camera-Specific Properties:
Equipment Make	Graflex
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Camera Software	Negative Lab Pro v3.0.2
Maximum Lens Aperture	f/2.8
Sensing Method	One-Chip Color Area
Focal Length (35mm Equiv)	41 mm
Image-Specific Properties:
Horizontal Resolution	300 dpi
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White Balance	Manual
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Gain Control	Low Gain Up
Contrast	Normal
Saturation	Normal
Sharpness	Normal

File: Hi-LineBridge.4x5.1.jpg (2.51 MB, 2500x1667)

2.51 MB JPG

I quite like how this one came out though.

[EXIF data available. Click here to show/hide.]

Camera-Specific Properties:
Equipment Make	Graflex
Camera Model	Crown Graphic
Camera Software	Negative Lab Pro v3.0.2
Maximum Lens Aperture	f/2.8
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File: MLPS.Skyline.4x5_C_.jpg (2 MB, 2500x1250)

2 MB JPG

Or this one that I cropped down into a 6x12

[EXIF data available. Click here to show/hide.]

Camera-Specific Properties:
Equipment Make	Graflex
Camera Model	Crown Graphic
Camera Software	Negative Lab Pro v3.0.2
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Gain Control	Low Gain Up
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File: DSC06424-50%.jpg (1.86 MB, 2743x1811)

1.86 MB JPG

>>4395989
>That's interesting, what kind of results did you get?

What to get for scanning? I guess scanning with a camera is the way to go most of the time because it's quick and can fit multiple formats with the same setup saving money. But out of all the stuff available, what's the best? Or would it be a better idea to just get some flatbed and deal with it?

File: 2024_0078_007.jpg (522 KB, 1500x1000)

522 KB JPG

It's the new year, let's post some 2024 stats!
>87x rolls total
>
>PROCESSES:
>39x C41, including:
>- 3x chromogenic B&W
>- 10x in home dev kit
>38x B&W, including:
>- 1x cross-process (R100 roll in B&W)
>7x R100, including:
>- 3x ruined rolls (due to spoiled developer)
>3x E6
>
>FORMATS:
>74x 135
>13x 120, including:
>- 7x 6x6
>- 5x 9x6
>
>SPEEDS:
>4x ISO 8
>4x ISO 12
>2x ISO 25
>4x ISO 50
>3x ISO 80
>23x ISO 100
>2x ISO 125
>2x ISO 160
>17x ISO 200
>1x ISO 320
>19x ISO 400
>2x ISO 800
>2x ISO 1600
>2x ISO 3200
>8x pull
>4x push
>
>First roll of the year: Fomapan R100
>Last roll of the year: Ilford XP2 @1600
I was hoping to break 100 rolls, but I had a few weeks of unexpected downtime. It's still the most I ever shot in a single year.
The most surprising thing is that B&W makes less than half of what I shot, it's normally 85-90% of all. It's the first time in 20+ years for me that B&W wasn't a vast majority. But I was experimenting a lot in color this year, including some at-home development of C41.
Anyway, no matter how much you shoot, I hope you had a productive, creative and satisfying year! Here's to this one being even better!

File: XE1KP4SG24205b (2).jpg (2.78 MB, 2000x1329)

2.78 MB JPG

[EXIF data available. Click here to show/hide.]

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>>4396108
Thanks, that actually looks great, I really need to give it a try!

>>4396131
I ain't reading all that nigga

File: scan0013.jpg (1.82 MB, 1999x1295)

1.82 MB JPG

>>4396131
i shot 5 rolls, i think
one foma 400, three rolls of 5222, and one ektar

[EXIF data available. Click here to show/hide.]

Camera-Specific Properties:
Equipment Make	Nikon
Camera Model	LS-4000
Camera Software	darktable 4.8.1
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>>4396131
Ok heres mine

Rolls: idk
Processes: 50 year old rodinal
Formats: unsure
Speeds: slow
Cameras built: 1

>>4396131
My 2024 stats:
I don’t know, camera just goes click.

>>4396131
rolls:
idk 5 maybe, numbers scare me
processes:
Rodinal on 2, rest I didn't develop myself
I have control issues, that's why I started developing myself.
formats:
film lol
speeds:
yes
first roll:
gold 200
last:
foma 400
times I got laid:
0

I think my X-700 is about to break, sometimes the light meter takes a bit to come on. And no, it's not one of the later shitty Chinese-made models.

>>4396156
New battery?

>>4396157
I put in a new one because I thought it was the battery, didn't help. Must be a bad capacitor.

>>4396158
Yea probably is then. Time to bust out the soldering iron.
Best of luck, here's a service manual I came across (2'nd post)
https://www.photrio.com/forum/threads/minolta-x700-light-meter-problem.168004/

>>4396161
thanks
the shutter works no problem so I think it's not the infamous issue with the faulty capacitor the newer models have but it must be something related to that
or maybe just an old solder joint that needs reflowing

File: Screenshot_2025-01-01-18-(...).jpg (909 KB, 1080x1380)

909 KB JPG

>>4396164
Afaik there are two caps that can go bad on specifically the x700, one for the shutter and one for the meter.
One is under the base plate and the other is (i think) under the iso dial

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>>4396075
Very nice and crisp, that’s slide film?

>>4396189
look at the film border

>>4396131
2024 stats:
like 6 rolls and 75 sheets of 4x5

most in d76, started doing d23 and two bath like a few months ago

speeds:
50 sheets of 80 iso
25 sheets of 100 iso

6 rolls 400 iso

first roll: delta 400
last roll: kentmere 400

>>4396169
Let be guess, the one that is a bitch to get to (top one) is for the meter?

>>4396255
Yeah

cool.

File: _DSC4953-Pano.jpg (3.23 MB, 9192x9136)

3.23 MB JPG

>>4396131
around 45 rolls total
Processes: B&W only, mainly HP5 and Kentmere 400 in XTOL
Formats: 6x 6x6, and 35mm rest
Speeds: not gonna count all that shit, recently not slower than 400 because of winter, pushed hp5 and kentmere to 1600/800
frist roll: of the year Gold 200
last roll: Kodak Vision3 250D

I've gotten into medium format this year and I absolutely love it
you can push the film few stops and still looks nice and smooth because of the negative size, I will be definitely experimenting more with it, I've 3d printed some 37mm filter adapters for my Minolta Autocord, and I've designed also a suitable sun hood

[EXIF data available. Click here to show/hide.]

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Camera Model	NIKON D610
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Color Filter Array Pattern	844
Focal Length (35mm Equiv)	60 mm
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Vertical Resolution	72 dpi
Image Created	2025:01:02 00:34:07
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ISO Speed Rating	100
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Scene Capture Type	Standard
Gain Control	None
Contrast	Normal
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Sharpness	Hard
Subject Distance Range	Unknown

stand deving Double-X rated at 800 ISO in rodinal (1+100) for 60 minutes tonight lads

>>4396298
Based. Enjoy the lovely grain and contrast.

any 4x5 fags use a roll back?

i no longer have access to a 4x5 enlarger, only one up to 6x7. i plan to get a roll back for my toyo 45e and a field camera (idk what it is ngl but it looks like a wista, hopefully it has a graflok back since its still in the mail).

which ones should i get?

i know its not the same resolution but a bigger negative would help me at least do what i need to do vs 35mm film. i think it'll be easier to bracket as well lol. cheaper for sure, and also i can finally use 400 speed film (i basically only use catlabs 80 in 4x5 and i know its in 120 but i can also use kentmere or whatever i want). i dont want to keep my cameras in the dust as well, like i've been doing since i switched back to 35mm.

>>4396323
Best overall, but probably out of budget is either of the sinar zoom models. One goes up to 6x9 and the other goes to 6x12. They let you switch between various formats shot to shot with auto spacing, so you aren't wasting film.

Mid tier, but still good is probably the horseman backs. I think they are more modern than linhof backs, and they are lighter, but still well made. More modern linhof backs are also pretty good. Just make sure you only get ones with a cocking lever and not a roller/knob advance they have spacing problems because of the thickness of 120 paper.

Do not get the ones that look like the sinar zooms but aren't sinar zooms they are really difficult to load and the one I used sucked at everything.

I've never looked into it, but you may be able to get adapters that would let you use rb67 or whatever film backs as well.

File: skull.jpg (944 KB, 2232x1464)

944 KB JPG

>>4396131
first 6 months of film photography (started in july)
shot probably 60 rolls or so this year, all c41 except a single roll of p3200 tmax. shot everything from 100 to 800 c41, first roll of the year was ultramax 400, and the last roll was psychedelic blues #6 200iso (which I believe is a hand-fogged roll of 200 gold judging from the can). all lab developed and scanned, although I've got a film scanner coming as a christmas present. then maybe i'll get in to home development at some point this year. probably will slow down on shooting as now I have a better idea of what subjects interest me and what film stocks I like, though I have a lot to explore with b&w still.

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>>4395429
But is says right there in the mail that there's no exceptions. Us yuropoors have no rights.

>>4396298
do post results, i wanna try doublex at some point but cant find ANY examples of people developing with rodinal

File: scan0027.jpg (4.16 MB, 3651x2686)

4.16 MB JPG

>>4396398
here you go, half frame double x exposed at 800 rodinal 1+50
>>4396138
this one is double x shot at 250, rodinal 1+50

[EXIF data available. Click here to show/hide.]

Camera-Specific Properties:
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Camera Software	darktable 4.6.0
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File: scan0039_01.jpg (4.19 MB, 3618x5315)

4.19 MB JPG

>>4396403
another, exposed at 800 again, 1+50 the same as the rest

>>4396327
NTA but this Sinar Zoom looks very cool
would be nice to make some panoramic shots
I know it's a retarded question, but how feasible would it be to cut a strip of 120 and tape it to a 4x5 holder?
Getting it perfectly flat can be hard but I believe it would be possible
Or maybe 3D print a mask that goes under the tabs that hold the film and has 120-specific tabs that let you slide 120 film as you would with a film sheet
I don't know shit about 3D printing but I'm sure it's possible
Would be nice