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File: nighttime_photo.jpg (311 KB, 1920x1280)
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I've never done much night photography, now I'll be going on a trip and want to take some nighttime photos of the city, so we're talking reasonably bright cityscape.

I'm conflicted on what settings to use. I shoot film and will be using Portra 800. From what I've read it doesn't seem to make much sense to push process it, but feel free to opine on this.

I have a 50mm/1.4 which is my preferred option. I also have a 28mm/2.8 and a 100-300mm/5.6.
Can handheld pics come out good (tripod may not always be an option), and if so should I just use the 50mm wide open at 1/50 (or even try my luck at 1/30)?

If using a tripod, what would be my reference? Say I use the telephoto lens at f/8, what exposure time would I use, around a second?

I'd be really grateful for any examples as well, digital is fine even if you use higher ISO, I could still calculate it to 800 and see if I can open up wide enough.
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>>4399095
The only reason I ever bought a digital camera was because night photography off film fucks and sucks. But if you insist, don't try and hand hold ridiculous exposure times, use a meter, use a tripod and good luck.
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>>4399095
Take a good light meter and adjust accordingly, no one can tell you a set of adjustments that will work universally in those conditions.
For the best results push it to 1600, but no more.
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>>4399095
Handheld at 1.4 you should be good with 1/60, I shoot night with portra and cinestill 800 often and I'm usually going handheld with either a 1.8 or 1.7 lens. A tripod is always a good idea however, especially for the less open lenses since it will let you shoot longer exposures freely (and you can get neat effects like car/train light trails zooming by). Just note for exposure if you're focusing in on a light source that's going to need good metering otherwise you'll end up with a washed out photo; you either need to accept that only the light sources and the immediate reflected light will be captured or you're going to want to recompose and meter with the light out of the frame.
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>>4399155
Cool thanks.
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File: moon2.jpg (142 KB, 2232x1464)
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>>4399204
np, happy shooting. just looking through some of my saved pics and to add re your question in the OP, it does very much matter where the light is coming from and how much of the frame its filling when shooting longer fl. if you point at something illuminated and it looks fairly bright in your viewfinder, you can expect it to need a shorter exposure time to capture details. for instance, this was either 1/60 or 1/125 at an f/16 equivalent (f/8 mirror lens with a 2x teleconverter) and it was on 100iso film. obviously the moon is a bit of a special case since it is very bright, but the principle applies to any long lens like your 100-300
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File: amber.jpg (835 KB, 2232x1464)
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>>4399207
just gonna post some more night shots, this is (I think) 1.8 1/60 cine800

[EXIF data available. Click here to show/hide.]
Camera-Specific Properties:
Equipment MakeApplied Graphics Technologies
Camera ModelDigital Link
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Image Width2232
Image Height1464
Number of Bits Per Component8, 8, 8
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Horizontal Resolution300 dpi
Vertical Resolution300 dpi
Image Data ArrangementChunky Format
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File: trianon.jpg (953 KB, 1464x2232)
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>>4399209
fuji 400 for sure, either 1.8 or 2 at 1/60

[EXIF data available. Click here to show/hide.]
Camera-Specific Properties:
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Camera SoftwareDigital Link TIFF Conversion, Version 1.2
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File: Downtowner.jpg (412 KB, 1420x1752)
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>>4399211
f/2 1/60 I wanna say? perhaps even 2.8

[EXIF data available. Click here to show/hide.]
Camera-Specific Properties:
Equipment MakeApplied Graphics Technologies
Camera ModelDigital Link
Camera SoftwareDigital Link TIFF Conversion, Version 1.2
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Number of Bits Per Component8, 8, 8
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>>4399213
Nice. Very rockwellian. Maybe notch the saturation up just a few notches tho.
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>>4399095
Portra 800 will do just fine, don't have to push it if you have tripod. For handheld its peak is at 1600. Try some Vision3 as well or cinestill 800t if you don't want to mess with remjet (or have lab do it). They work pretty good in night with tungsten temperature lights.
Measure the exposure, phone apps do good job as phone sensors and software to process their input is under constant improvement so normies can take photos in shitty lighting. To calculate reciprocity failure use (measured time)^1.31 as base and bracket it to 1.26
Most of the times cameras that measure light of the film surface and can adjust time accordingly do a better job than all those measuring and calculations. Try Olympus OM-2, Minolta x-700, Nikon F3
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>>4399209
>>4399211
Seems to me 800 at handheld speed works albeit barely, but it's good to know that I can pull it off whenever a tripod isn't viable. Although the highly contrasted aesthetic is kinda nice in its own way, gives a very gloomy atmosphere. My 50mm/1.4 will come in handy for those. Thanks for the reassurance on this.



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