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File: 1538942258055.png (1.05 MB, 1189x721)
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Work in Progress, "End of the week" Edition

>Full-on /WIP/ OP Links Pastebin:
https://pastebin.com/BE42AEcD

>Saint Duncan's "Six Things I Wish I Knew When I Started Painting"
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ufP8ka3KGno

>Saint Duncan also explains thinning your paints
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wxWgsqSf74s

>Paint thinning 102
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sBDVPoNXyVI

>Darren Latham's 20 top tips for miniature painting success
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ERXNObqeNb8

>4 EASY Chipping Tricks For Beginners
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ku4comhKHJM

>Decal Like a Pro
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SYKLiEW7p9c

>How to Edge Highlight
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KoRbYuAfbEk

>How to use contrast style paints
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IhholrozptI

>Who's Johnny, she'd say, and smile in her special way
https://1d6chan.miraheze.org/wiki/Johnny

>Previous thread:
>>92518159
>>
Anyone switched from Citadel to Two Thin Coats? I'm thinking of replacing my paints as they run out because I'm tired of the shitty pots and the lids that clog up.
>>
>>92547032
Not exactly switched as I use both since I'm only painting for 3 years now and none managed to dry yet. TTC are good paints themselves, with good coverage and self-leveling but expensive when compared to, say, Vallejo. Quite thinned from the start, too. But aside from that, I have only good things to say about them.
>>
>>92547082
I'm more concerned about the colours being slightly different despite the conversion chart and it being noticeable if I make the switch while painting an army.
>>
>>92547032
>imagine switching into an even MORE expensive brand because eceleb tax
are you fucking retarded anon?
>>
>>92547091
There are actual tables, I remember one for first wave but probably there is the same for second. Yeah, some are quite different but most are same or better.
>>
>>92547091
The sooner you realise that individual colours and matching them is irrelevant the sooner you will be free. You don't need exact matches, just tonal similarity. And you will eventually learn to mix to move a colour in any direction you might need it. The only time where colour matching is relevant is keeping uniformity across models in the same army, and even then it isn't as big a deal as you would think as you won't notice minor differences unless they are side by side.
>>
>>92547120
The money is peanuts. I want to get rid of the hassle of dealing with the paint pots.
>>
>>92547120
NTA but I absolutely love GW red shades and if TTC have similar quality, it would be worth it. Vallejo reds are somewhat lacking, at least the ones I tried.
>>
>>92547032
I bought some TTC paints and I'll admit they're really good. AK 3rd gen level which is basically top tier. If you don't mind paying the celeb tax they're worth it. They're not exact matches to Citadel though, but close enough.
>>
>>92547124
Why did they leave all kinds of specs and dirt in the citadel ones?
>>
>>92547285
Really looks like two different people did it, and the one that did the Citadel part really didn't give a fuck. I also notice how they made no mention of how many layers were done on each would have also been useful info for comparing opacity. But whoever did the Citadel side didn't even bother covering the whole tile.
>>
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This has actually been really fun to paint so far
Having a giant reference is also very useful
>>
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not sold on the turret i think it looks too much like lascannon
i havent touched greenstuff in 10 years and it shows
>>
>>92547701
that slanted cut is lascannons signature yeah, do something like this maybe
>>
>>92547594
From thumbnail, I thought it's giant dude with tiny legs.
>>
>>92547032
Do they do washes? I can't stand the new GW formula.
>>
>>92548192
They do but their washes have a weird finish to them to be honest. It's like kinda matte but on bigger surfaces they have this white-ish sheen or something. Dunno how to explain it and I don't have a model on hand to show you. I think they were designed with the idea that you're supposed to layer over them/put them directly in recesses in mind.
>>
>>92548192
You mean that literally every gw wash now has a glossy finish to it? It drives me insane as well. Nowadays I only use what I have left of them to wash metallics since they actually work ok for that
>>
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>>92547749
Sadly he's not quite that modular
>>
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some anons wanted to see how these things are made so might as well post some more wips
>>92547738
yeah i have to figure out a muzzle that looks like a flamethrower
>>92548476
kek
>>
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>>92548476
>>
>>92548780
This is literally just every old space marine lmao
>>
>>92548313
Not only that they are kinda goopy. They constantly dry with a visible bump if it pools too much.
>>
>>92547594
Kurtwood Smith?
>>
>>92546960
Is there any good youtube tutorial that don't put me to sleep?
>>
>>92548560
>looks like a flamethrower
instead of a muzzle on earch cannon, join them and make holes
>>
>>92548944
Set it to 1.5x speed and stop smoking pot.
>>
>>92547032
>eceleb products
Why? Just why? Like people who pay the 1000% pricehike on makeup brushes by buying magnus opus.
>>
>>92550607
This is not as much of a price hike though. They're usually only a bit more expensive than what they're competing with(GW) but quality and containers being vastly superior. It's a pretty big difference compared to AK/Vallejo/Scale75 but TTC is designed specifically for warhammer so it's easier for beginners.
Also because you usually don't buy the entire range at once but a couple paints, the price difference is spread over an extended period of time.
I mean come on it's still only a couple bucks per bottle and they are actually superior to citadel. It's not like you're paying ten times as much for the same/shittier product but with face of a celeb slapped on it. I don't understand why people make such a big deal out of TTC but almost every single fucking time a picture gets posted here it has citadel pots in the background.
>>
>>92547032
If you're following ecelebs, I saw there was some guy on youtube making paint review and comparison videos. It may be good to watch them and pick the best brand for each color.
>>
>>92550752
Or just buy craft paint and say "fuck you" to everyone.
>>
Unusual question but - yesterday I finished painting and basing 14 Infinity minis, do you think I should do some bigger model for change now? I still feel some urge to keep painting but at the same time, I don't want to get burn out by continuously doing similar thing.
>>
>>92550832
If that's what is calling to you, give it a go yeah.
I have some Kingdom Death models that I paint when I'm feeling sick of 40k and it keeps things interesting
>>
why do you guys keep discussing washes?
take the oil pill already
>>
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>>92551075
no
>>
>>92550832
Maybe try painting something completely different than what you normally do. Like you've been doing the sci-fi stuff lately so maybe something fantasy or organic, maybe some scratch built terrain? A model or a small box, something to flex and stretch before hitting the infinity again.
>>
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>>92551075
I use both depending on what effect I want.
>>
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It seems that in lieu of a hairdryer, candlefire also helps give the heat necessary to help with the effect of dd verdigris

Also yeah this is a ton of the stuff on this model, but I also despised the metallic I used on it so I was purposefully trying to obliterate it
>>
Seems like im banned from posting images ONCE AGAIN

Anyway ,I made some progress on the hobgoblin.
The NMM is just a sketch so far.
Right now Im not really liking the yellow side of the hat as I think theres too much yellow next to each other (the horn and the hat)
Im considering changing it to blue but im scared it would look like a clown fiesta with so many colours

Also the robe... I dont know, its supposed to be a dark grey and while I think it kinda reads as that, its too flat and boring.
The skin is okay I guess, but could be improved too.

https://i.postimg.cc/BQgC4T4r/hob1.jpg
https://i.postimg.cc/15PKkCh0/hob2.jpg

I need you to tear my paintjob fucking apart, break my heard but let me know what the fuck do I do to make this cunt shine.
>>
>>92550681
>designed specifically for warhammer
In what way?
>>
>>92551487
It's not, that's fucking bullshit
>>
>>92551508
>all their colors are direct or close equivalents of citadel
>not for warhammer
>>
>NMM
I sleep
>>
>>92551523
>NONONO YOU MUST USE EXACTLY THE SAME HUE THAT GEEDUBS DESIGNATED FOR THEIR PAINTJOBS OTHERWISE YOU C A N N O T USE THOSE PAINTS FOR WARHAMMER REEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEE
>>
>>92551553
Holy fuck calm down you schizoid. Of course you can use them however you want but if they're marketed as citadel equivalents it's obviously suggest their design process had warhammer in mind
>>
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Man this is so fucking sad, can't believe they are still making resin to this day.
Just broken right out of the box.
And yes I know I'm the sucker for buying this, Just couldnt resist this banner.
>>
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>>92551609
Also i dont think those bubbles are supposed to be there right?
And yes already contacted their support.
>>
>>92551609
>>92551621
Damn, that sucks.
I know ToW was meant to be the same models for the most part but I didn't expect the same finecast quality.
At least you should hopefully get a full replacement for the set.
>>
>>92551645
it's kinda mindblowing to me they would stick with finecast for the relaunch despite all the shit it got. It also deserved every bit of it
>>
>>92551246
Ah, but don't use candles fren. Most of those chemicals used to make rust effects contain alcohol and other flammable and combustible ethers and solvents. Plus you can melt your mini if it's made from plastic/styrene. Styrene is also flammable and hard to put out once it start burning and creates toxic fumes while it's burning. It would be better to just sit the model in the hot sun for a while before applying the chemical.
>>
Fuck north italy
Our weather is either:
-Foggy
-Hot and humid
Today was the rare case it was not hot and humid nor foggy... it was hot and WINDY
Anyway I primed
It went ok-ish... but the spray ended before I could prime every single model....
desu I think I am speedrunning cancer
Do someone of you guys tried brush on primer? Any cons? with that brush should I use it?
>>
>>92551891
Out of desperation I once brushed on Vellejo's black surface primer and it worked out so well that I have been using it regularly when the weather is too bad to give something a quick spray
>>
>>92551891
Anon it may be time to invest in an airbrush if weather is such a limiting factor
>>
>>92551551
who are you quoting
>>
Still have some errors to clean up but he's table-ready
>>
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O learned elders of /wip/, how to do the finishing touches on this model and how to do a glowing effect on the plasma cannon of my dreadnought?
>>
>>92551992
nice!
>>92552012
looks really good. glow effects are the same each time. you paint white, dry, then glaze your color on top of the white, dry, then add more white to make center stronger, dry, glaze for color again etc. anyplace you want light to hit like around the edges of objects add a little rim of white first and then glaze your color and so forth.
>>
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progress slow
>>
Alright, done with the test models and on to the first of the kill team. Decided to take pics as I go along the process for shits and giggle, here's the base acrylic layer (grey primer, burnt orange on the coats, ivory zenithal) and the burnt umber preglaze.
>>
>>92551891
Vallejo primers are fine to brush on. No real thought needed, apply it like paint with whatever brush is convenient. The only reason people use sprays is cause it's way faster, not cause there's any real downside to brush on primer
>>
>>92551891
I've had good experiences with the vallejo brush on primer. Just slapped it on with a big brush I use for basecoating
>>
My understanding is yellows and whites tend to have very large pigment particles for better coverage. I've been using pro acryl paints, and they cover decent with their white and yellow but if you don't want full coverage and thin them down all that much I can start to see individual pigment particles. Any brands you would recommend for white and yellows with small pigments that work well for glazes and washes?
>>
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Got lazy with the bases for my martian Kill Team but I'm content with them. Pre-assembly painting was definitely the way to go with these guys.
>>
>>92551400
I think your painting is too advanced for the average /wip/ painter, which is why you're not getting any advice.
>>
>>92551400
>>92552645
according to old internet wisdom if there is nothing wrong with it nobody will say anything about it but if there is something wrong with it people will point it out straight away
>>
>>92551111
>>92550845
Sounds like good idea. Thank you both.
>>
>>92551400
Like the other anon said, you seem to have very good technical skills (better than me anyways). Generally if you add more contrast minis will look better, especially at a tabletop distance. Both more contrast in value, as well as contrast in hue. Changing hue from your shadows to midtone and or midtone to highlight is a method I see pro painters do to add hue contrast without having a clownshow effect. Like recently I saw a kroot done with the skin base coated a muted dark red-brown, and built up to a green for midtones and towards a desaturated yellow green in highlights and it looked very good. Blue shadows - green midtones would would also probably look very good.
>>
>>92552488
NTA but when I used Vallejo "mecha color" line primer with brush, paint wouldn't adhere at all, instead pooling even when not over thinned and applied at small amount. Never had same behaviour with GSW primer for example or Vallejo own "primer" in spray can (which is actually their paint instead but every single shop sell it as primer).
>>
>>92551400
Your extreme shadows dont seem to be 'dark enough' if that makes sense, maybe try an oil wash with a very dark blue or even black, that way you make sure you dont ruin the paintjob underneath with the staining and can remove the excess if necessary
>>
>>92552403
My butthole before, during and after I take a shit
>>
>>92552403
Applied my mid tones and some basic highlights, letting those sit for a few minutes and I'll blend them in. Next step will be the eyelenses and weapon, then I'll reinforce the shadows on the model. Already mixed some madder purple into the leather's shadows to add a little bit of life and contrast.
>>
>>92553003
Post butthole.
>>
>>92553003
You bleach between every bowel movement? That can't be healthy for your skin.
>>
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I'm really happy with how his face turned out and the model as a whole.
>>
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>>92548476
Also I felt like I had to do this to balance things out
>>
>>92553027
Blended out the first mid tones and highlights, added some more to the black and gun then did a pinwash for the shadows. After that dries I'll blend it out, need to work on the shadows on the gun then pinwash that and the helmet/shoulderpads.
>>
>>92553290
Why are you posting completely unedited 40k promotional material?
>>
>>92552403
>>92553027
looking good as per, what sort of consistency do you aim for with preglaze/how long do you tend to let it cure?
>>
>>92547594
Why does he have penises on his iron halo
>>
>>92553290
>hold up -
>>
>>92548268
>I think they were designed with the idea that you're supposed to layer over them/put them directly in recesses in mind
Probably given that's how your use a wash. Anything else is the equivalent of peddling a bike with your hands
>>
>>92548944
YouTube tutorials are for smoothbrains
>>
>>92550681
>somehow even more expensive than citadel
>implying most people buy entire paint ranges
>better than ak third gen
>it's better cause it's made for models unlike citad...oh wait, unlike valle...hmm, unlike ak inter....gee that's weird, unlike scal... darn
Daddy Duncan isn't going to praise you for sucking his cock here paintlet. Just admit you were gaslit by a balding nerd to dump money on something you already had
>>
>>92551075
I'll use oils whenever you finish your army
>>
>>92551246
What the fuck are you retarded anon. This the worst thing I've seen in this thread in ages. It's just a giant blob, you can't make out any details. The fact that you took a picture of this to share is legitimately disappointing for an adult. You should actually be ashamed to have thought anyone wants to see this garbage. There's a painter with cerebral palsy at my lgs who paints better with a brush in his mouth than you do with your fat mongoloid fingers

>pic fucking related
>>
>>92553648
post models
>>
>>92551523
Are you colorblind? Otherwise I think a fully capable grownup can make a decision on their own of how to paint their plastic men
>>
>>92553648
I actually only bought a couple of his paints as replacement for citadel once I ran out lmao. I'm sorry you're so fucking poor that spending a dollar more on a bottle of hobby paint is such a big deal for you
>>
>>92553399
Blended in the first pin wash after it dried, added some more shadows to the arms since I blended them away too much. That is legit my favorite thing about oils, make a mistake and you can just blend it out in 5 seconds. Giving it a few more minutes to set up, need to add some more lights to the eye lenses and the skull on the lasrifle. All told maybe 1.5 of working time on the model (not including drying time). When I paint the rest of the kill team I'll work in batches of 3, while 2 dry I can work on the third.

>>92553541
Since these guys needed the dark umber to be strong I left the preglaze on for about 15 minutes to get a real good stain. If I was using something like dioxizine purple that stains like a motherfucker I could do less time. As for thinning I took it straight from the tube and added enough thinner to get it to flow well, ended up about the same consistency as thinned acrylic paint.
>>
>>92551609
I can't believe that hobbylets don't Google the common issues with resin and temper their expectations. They're just gonna send you another one that will also have bubbles and flashing, I don't know ehat you think you're buying
>>
>>92553648
also go back to school because you obviously have trouble with reading comprehension
>>
>>92552563
Yellow inks are the only yellows worth thinning down. Opaque colours with lots of white in them always suffer when overrated for the reasons you stated
>>
>>92551891
There's no reason why less than 30 models would take a full can of primer, you're doing something retarded with your technique
>>
>>92553784
at least they can rest easy they're not a jaded fucking loser that has to vent his frustrations by insulting people on a korean comic book forum lmao
>>
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first time trying to put flayed skin on a model, I cut up a nighthaunt guy and drilled a paperclip in as a sorta pin, so it made sense, how does it look? The thing at the back of the base is a gravestone, going for a really spooky look
>>
>>92553778
Think I'm good with him for now, going to let him dry overnight and see what shadows and highlights need to be adjusted once its matted out a bit. As always the sheen is messing with the camera, eye lenses and lasgun especially look better to the naked eye. Also enjoy this quick med bag, took about 20 minutes of brush time overall.
>>
Pretty brand new to this and I've got Black Legion painted Rhino. I was looking at doing some rust/chipping. Can I get away with just using a sponge to put on some silver paint and then brown/rust paint detail around that? Or would that just look like I've splotched some paint on it?
>>
>>92551891
>Do someone of you guys tried brush on primer? Any cons? with that brush should I use it?
zdravo neighbor. i use the AK brush on primer and it works quite well but it's slower than a spray ofc. also be aware that tiny bubbles can form if you brush it on too fast over raised areas/details. i just use a cheap synthetic brush or a worn down one
>>
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>>92554106
nice bro
here's my oil d-cock
>>
>>92554100
Doesn't really read as leather/skin it looks like a fabric.
>>
>>92554162
well, it is fabric to be fair
>>
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Pics assembled together, fun to see the progression in pictures since I usually jus take a before and after.
>>
>>92554146
Aw yeah, that green and gold is a nice combo.
>>
>>92554111
Yeah but you've got it backwards, sponge brown > orange > silver.
>>
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scratch building a mortar for my dwarfs out of literal junk and bits box discards. this stuff is really fun.
>>
>>92554383
this is the way
>>
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>>92554726
it really is. i feel like I did opening when first getting into the hobby. didn't think I could feel this excited over something so simple.

also, quick mock up. better this way?
>>
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>>92554975
or facing the other direction?
>>
>>92554975
>>92554987
I like the first way better so long as theres a weight on the right side to keep it from tipping
>>
>>92555018
Agree, it also gives a little area for the dorf to stand and line up his next shot.
>>
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>>92552153
Vallejo metal color semi matt aluminium going on.
>>
>>92555018
>>92555030
Should also carve a stepped angle on the back end, and add a second layer of board in thickness of reduced height but matching profile.
>>
>>92555018
>>92555030
>>92555091
thank you. yeah I'll go that way.

I'm definitely going to thicken the look of the frame.
>>
>>92555082
Is that the alcohol or water based metallic that they make?
>>
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Making some terrain for a badlands/desert board. How are these rocks?
>>
>>92555181
water based:
https://acrylicosvallejo.com/en/product/hobby/metal-color-en/semi-matt-aluminium-77716/
>>
>>92555362
looks good, though not something many, if any, can stand on.
>>
>>92555462
that's the point.
I'm tired of ruins and L shaped whatevers that can be ignored by any infantry. My LGS doesn't have much that isn't that. I want a board where the terrain matters and you have to move around it, not straight through it.
>>
>>92555471
I like that idea. I had made a few pieces like that many moons ago for my LGS.
>>
>>92555555
Witnessed
>>
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>>92555163
it's coming along slowly but nicely
>>
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Working on custom explosive barrel terrain for kill team
>>
>>92555690
Just obscuring or special rules?
>>
>>92555834
Still playing around with ideas, want to see how they work in practice. Thinking light terrain, and for shooting attacks made at targets using the terrain as cover, failed shots deal damage to the terrain instead. When the terrain's wounds reaches 0, it explodes, removing itself from the kill zone and dealing damage to anything within 2" of any point of the terrain.
>>
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>>92555576
alright I'm calling it a night and will continue tomorrow.

I realized too late that the butt of the mortar is basically invisible so I didn't need to use the elaborate button I did (it was something o literally found on the ground anyways, but still) also painting it will be an absolute bitch so I decided to leave the rear open for now and close it after at least basecoating.

I also liked the steps idea but i think a separate step/ladder would work best.
>>
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Got some new proacryl colours recently so testing them out on a big squig, really enjoying the high opacity and how they thin down for glazes
>>
>>92556068
looks good, very matte
>>
>>92555362
I like um. they feel very dragon ball like.
>>
>>92556021
Nice work
>>92555690
Cute
>>92554236
Looks great
>>92554100
Love his hat. Like ancient world stuff
>>
>>92551609
>>92551621
Superglue will fix resin and mixing supergkue with baking soda can fill in bubble holes
>>
>>92551246
What the fuck have you done with that model?
>>
>>92552645
>>92552716
>Thank you

>>92552747
Agreed, I'll try to get more color into the shadows

>>92552850
Thats actually a great idea. The lack of darkness that you refer may be caused because I undercoated the whole think with dark sea blue instead of pure black, so yes an oil pin wash may be a good course of action
>>
>>92551992
Not every Chapter does full blue for their Librarians, but in those instances at least one of the pads should be blue. Same for Apothecaries and Tech Marines, if the armour isn't the traditional colour then at least one of the pads is.
>>
Looking to ditch citadel and branch out and 'stick' to one paint brand. Money isn't really an issue. I've been looking online through all kinds of reviews, but overall it kinda came down to:

New army painter fanatic range (able to buy the full range in one box)
two thin coats
Vallejo model colour (new range)

Anyone got experience with any of these? Mainly looking for a matte finish. I know the fanatic range has more of a satin finish, but given I can buy the whole range without much hassle in one go doesn't make it a huge deal. I've heard that the new vallejo range has an ultra matte finish, but I'm wondering how it compares to other brands. Two thin coats is supposedly similar to citadel with colours but of a higher quality and a more matte finish. How true is this? I know it's largely personal preference, but still.
Also interested in the washes. The new fanatic washes are supposedly on par with citadels, except without the glossiness. How do they compare with two thin coats? Kinda want to throw out the citadel washes since, for some god awful reason, they now leave a glossy finish, no matter how much I shake them.
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Third time trying to get its eyes right
Is it time to give up and bust out another helmet?

Also what's the cheapest way to get Maltese cross decals/transfers? I can draw it okay on a flat surface but it's impossible on a curved surface like the shoulders
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>>92557638
Thin your paints? And yes, give that boy a strip, he's drowning.
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>>92557681
My paints are pretty thin, there just are three layers on top of what would be normal to hide my mistakes
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>>92557633
>New army painter fanatic range
No
>two thin coats
An even more expensive Citadel because eceleb tax
>Vallejo model colour (new range)
Good choice, new game color is good to

Consider too:
AK 3rd gen

Also why limit yourself to one brand? Buying whole ranges is the stupidest idea ever
>>
>>92557749
What's bad about the new army painter range?
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>>92557754
Too much white on many of their paints to increase coverage, resulting in desaturated colours
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>>92557758
Nta but this is actually interesting to me because I was considering some side project with desaturated colors myself. I could just mix them of course but I like the consistency and as of now I have more money than hobby time. I will look into the range.
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>>92553884
>I'm mad I didn't google things because I'm retarded
Doing research on the products you're spending your hard earned money on is only optional for the mentally deficient and those who make enough that taking the hit is negligible and wont cause them any stress. Assuming that a multimillion dollar company is selling you what they say they are is literal smoothbrain shit
>>
>>92557754
>>92557765
Its better to have saturated colours that you can desaturate at will, than having desaturated colors that you can...not saturate back (unless you mix with inks or glaze over them, but thats just another additional step)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LwZYPDVmbDE
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XwxqP7B_ML8
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>>92554100
Placement and the shape is a little weird and unnatural looking. Doesn't really read like it's flapping or made of a floppy material like flesh. Stick a small wash cloth to your fridge with a single fridge magnet in the center and you'll see it doesn't hold its shape, but instead folds over on itself
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>>92555362
Consider filling the gaps between the rocks with some sort of drywall compound or grout. Rocks don't tend to stack like that unless they're connected via some sort or sedimentary stone. Look up some of the provincial parks in Alberta canada like badlands provincial park, or dinosaur provincial park for to see how sedimentary rocks form and erode
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dudes are ready for my convention game of Charlie Don't Surf next month. I made a huge mistake going all in on 28mm when I first got into wargaming so I'm redoing my entire Vietnam collection in 15.
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>>92557832
>>
>>92557758
>>92557790
good points, thanks!
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>>92557633
I recommend AK interactive 3rd gen and proacryl, AK had a lot of paints that are consistently matte and have a great finish, Proacryl is highly pigmented and thins down to glazes perfectly,

Sticking to one range is silly since there's such a wide range of the colour wheel being covered, but both of these brands offer consistent quality from my experience
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>>92557790
This dude claims artist paints are more saturated than hobby specific paints.. this true? Anyone have experience and recommendations?
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>>92558752
>This dude
whomst
>>
>>92558663
>>92557749
What's so 'special' about AK 3d gen? I get the matte finish, but beyond that, how does it compare to Vallejo model colour?

Nothing to compare it with now, but considering vallejo is reformulating their model colour range (with them claiming it has a matte finish) I'm curious how it'll go against AK.
>>
>>92546960

Are you goys pining or glueing models to bases?
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>>92559037
The second one.
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>>92559056
Pin metal, glue plastic and resin
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>>92546960
Anyone could help me with slutty bimbo gyaru skintone? I keep trying to put on more layers but still something look not right
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>>92559307
>something look not right
Maybe the fact that theres no shadows nor highlights and its just a single flat tone for the whole thing.
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>>92559365
How do i hightlight the butt and not make it look ugly as hell though? with grey or white paint?
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>>92559054
Since Vallejo new Model line will have same properties as their new Game line, it's safe to assure that whatever bottles you already have are the last good paints from them.
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How does it look?
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>>92559387
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>>92559307
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KZHd4BIAVK8
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>>92559307
>something look not right
Yeah, I don't know if it's the primer or the scukpt but she looks like she has cellulitis.
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>>92559398
grumpy
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>>92559398
>>92559387
>>
>>92559421
>those arms
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Uhm... Is vanish is just topcoat?
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>>92559421
>baneCostume.jpg
A lil small for a speesh mareen, arent ya?
>>
>>92559056
>Are you goys pining or glueing models to bases?

Do you glue the model to the base before priming & painting? Seems like that would make life easier, and one could use a proper painting handle vs bluetack or whatever.
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>>92559435
>>92559454
Is that not a tall child? Everything is very small.
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>>92559415
>>92559435
>>92559454
Dare you mock the Blood Angels?

It sadly isn't my costume. Currently going for £10 on ebay and thought it'd get a laugh
>>
What are you using to masking miniature, /tg/? Is Blue Tack okay?
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>>92559483
I bought some masking tape lol
Dont see why blutac wonwt work
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>>92559374
Skin highlights are subtle. Pic related, be careful though.
She needs some shading in the creases. Back of the knee, maybe behind the boob. Don't go overboard though.
Nice reds, already looks less like plastic.
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>>92547124
Since one of his charts came up, just gonna drop this here. It's one of Stahlys paywalled charts for AK paints, hes a gigantic faggot but these are pretty useful https://files.catbox.moe/k8qhoz.jpg
>>
Dude, what the fuck even is this?
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>>92559559
Why would i want a frame around the mini? Isn't the handle's whole point making it easier to access any angle?
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>>92559559
all paint holders with gay gimics literally mogged by pieces of wood dowel and pill bottles
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>>92559559
>>92559568
The idea is that you can brace your hand at multiple angles
I have no idea how or if that actually help in practice though
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>>92559559
>>92559568
Look at the bottom left you complete retards.
The frame can be flipped round and used as a handle
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>>92559591
Then what's the point of making it so it goes around the mini instead of just being at the bottom as usual?
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>>92559598
So you can hold it in a more stable position if you want. The bit in the middle turns, so you can turn the mini and not have the frame be in the way.
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>>92559629
It seems convoluted compared to just turning the handle of whatever you are using usually, but I guess it's one of those things you can't really appreciate until you try them out.
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>>92559559
Might be good if I ever broke my wrist and was unable to turn it
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>>92559598
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>>92551891
I also use Vallejo brush on primer and it works fine. Just remember that you're priming not painting a basecoat. Slap on one quick coat and don't worry about what it looks like.
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>>92559559
It's so you can brace your brush hand. You're probably already doing it on the edge of your desk or whatever anyway so I don't what the utility would actually be.
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>>92559559
Seems kind of weird, I've seen painting handles with a rest for your brush hand before but surely the benefit is from having both.
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>>92555555
Incidental numerical sequence of measuring objective correctness.
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Small update on this weird diorama. Its fun to do something I'm not used to, and its not easy. If I'm happy with the end result and not exhausted, I might start a harlequins army.
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Finished this anointed/heavy melee marine on time yesterday for a KT game. He did well but fuck beastmen.
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>>92559559
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>>92560451
Like the idea, looking forward to seeing more progress on it.
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Is this red and white how I'm supposed to prime a tank? Or should it have been full black?
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>>92556021
so I added another "layer". I also don't know if I should cover the pins. or leave them exposed. I'm thinking of adding a lever and some gears to have it "mechanically engineered" in being able to be aimed a bit.
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>>92560715
Are these printed? I need sauce. Also, how are we supposed to how you want to paint them?
>>
This look fun. Wonder if its better than my table though
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>>92560715
Entirely depends on what your overall color scheme will look like I think. The difference is subtle. A cool grey or olive drab works well over a black prime coat, whereas for yellows and khakis I've found a mahogany base works best.
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>>92560804
there is no way this is easier than just anchoring your hands on the table/each other man
>>
Posted this guy in 40k general yesterday. Just got to do some touchups and finish the base.
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>>92560858
cool beans
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>>92560860
I prefer my beans hot.
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>>92560874
you prefer NOTHING lest the commissar declares it for you
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>>92560830
>>92560758
Going to try matching these guys. Coppers and silvers. These are moderately kitbashed using only cardboard and the Solar Auxilia Battleforce sprues.
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>>92559589
With how wide it has to be to accommodate a mini, it looks like a far more cumbersome alternative to just wearing a sodding rubber glove
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>>92560634
I kek'd.
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>>92560715
"The PDF Colonel told us tanks would be no use for putting down a civillian uprising, but I don't know, I think we did a pretty good job."
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>>92560884
We executed the commissar for cowardice because he tried to talk us out of a suicidal charge. Something about "the big picture" and "tactical gains".
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>doing a few armour tests and get a result I like
>forget how to do it immediately
fuck sake
>>
Different kind of question - when I search for info about making boxes to safely transport minis, I keep running into instructions on making magnetic boxes and gluing magnets to minis bases. But these would only work with plastic ones, I assume, due to their low weight - what about metal ones? Especially bigger models that are visibly heavy?

I'm asking because I would need something to transport different sized Infinity minis and while Safe & Sound boxes with foam are fine for most of them, some have poses wild enough to not fit.
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>>92561179
>what about metal ones? Especially bigger models that are visibly heavy?
Use more magnets.
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>>92561179
few weeks ago anon made army carrier from some metal ikea display shelf or small filing cabinet or something like that
looked like it would work but then again he owned a carrying bag that fit the whole thing snugly so it doesnt count
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>>92561091
Well if we all kill ourselves whos going to eat the excess of cold beans
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>>92561179
>But these would only work with plastic ones, I assume, due to their low weight - what about metal ones?
They work just fine with metal too lad as long as you get them flush with the surface, you just have to use more of them, I transport my old metal Ghazghkull and Barbed Heirodule in a kvissle using magnets, the heirodule is a proper fat fucker and weighs like 250g.
I wouldnt trust them to hold him in place if I fell down the stairs with the bag on my back, but just walking about they dont even shift slightly.
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>>92561179
Depends on how you're transporting them, if you're in your car with plenty of space then just individually pack all the awkward ones in oversized boxes with bubble wrap.
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>>92561159
Idk anon that looks like metal with a wash and then edge highlights
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>>92561284
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/375008710079
https://www.ikea.com/gb/en/p/kvissle-letter-tray-white-70198031/

This is my transport combo, the kvissle could do with some more rails for the trays as its kinda annoying when 1 mini is 1cm too tall and requires you to move the shelf up 3 whole inches but its enough space to fit most armies
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>>92560842
I'm thinking of a bipod on a wrist strap now.
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>>92561400
>>92561179
I will never stop shilling the army bags by GSW, unironnicly best solution out there for its price. Now that there are several sizes its even better.
If youre not retarded and can glue some mdf together go for it.
Even fit 1500 points of gloomspite, despite the really awkward tall shrine.
https://www.greenstuffworld.com/en/search?controller=search&s=army+bag
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>>92561513
>mdf in a lunchbag
Surely no one could do this at home for cheaper!
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>>92561527
(I don't own one of these) They don't really seem that expensive.
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>>92561527
Do it, ill be impressed.
Also try stopping being so cynical
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>>92561542
That's a $10 thermal lunchbag with at most, $10 worth of mdf, magnet sheets maybe $15ish? and that's consumer pricing for the materials, for a manufacturer the costs are lower. Are they really selling these for $35ish?
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>>92561550
Stop being a slut for middlemen.
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>>92561561
>stop going for the middleman, just model your minis yourself. Sure it may be more convinient and nicer. But just get out your milliput and sculpting tools.
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>>92561555
fucker if you want to play this game factor in the cost of the tools, labour and man hours to make it at home
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>>92561586
Yes
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>>92561603
>>92561586
Lmao, I do manufacture at home for material costs.
3D printing is best chuds.
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>>92561603
>labour and man hours to make it at home
Replies like these are often from people with no real social life and just too much time on their hands that, so that they dont value it.
Or just straight up neets
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>>92561527
to be completely honest a box like that would not cost too much and in many places they even cut the pieces for you for free
biggest problem would be the shelves and that too has really cheap solution if you know whitch way to hold a power drill
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>>92561638
Do places actually laser cut mdf to your designs for free?
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>>92561627
Negative, I'm a farmhand. These things just don't require that much time or skill
It's an MDF box in a bag, not a thermonuclear device.
Ignoring that the best magnetic transport method is a metal lunchbox/toolbox.
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>>92561638
and i forgot to post the solution
>>92561646
yeah i have one local shop that does it for free
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>>92561663
For so-called hobbyists, /wip/ anons sure are both unschooled about diy and repelled by it.
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Hi,

I’’m back at the hobby after 20 years. I suck at painting and I hate miniature painting influencers giving unrealistic advice for painting ARMIES.

My gold standard is GW Studio 6th edition Warhammer Fantasy level of painting.

I need BASIC tutorials. Short and direct advice to paint ARMIES that look good.

Help.
>>
>>92561627
It's not even that, it's just moronic arguing for the sake of it. Everyone has a line where diy becomes unfun and counterproductive for them, this is just pissing about where the line is. The usual shit here, absolutely nothing of substance.
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>>92561678
/wip/ surely has the mindset but its a sad fact of life that not everyone has free access to tools and or facilities required to manifest their wildest hobby dreams
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>>92561678
Making a box easily requires tools and time that I do not have.
I could draw out the plans for a box on CAD, acquire MDF and find somewhere with a lasercutter or CNC to cut it for me before taking my plans and materials to said place, which I have done before back when MDF scenery was a new and popular thing and I wanted some custom shit.
Or I could just pull 50 quid out of my wallet and have the whole thing delivered to my door and ready to go by Tuesday.

Even if the entire first process was 100% free, which it wouldnt be, Id still go with the second.
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>>92561797
I think people just forget that you're supposed to enjoy your hobby, it's not your job it's something you do for fun, you don't need to do anything you don't want to to do!
>>
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Update on that rock terrain. It's all painted up and ready to play on with the octarius terrain I painted to go alongside it. I'm happy with how they turned out. Now I'm just waiting for the 6x4 badlands mat I ordered to come in.
>>92557823
I'd do this but I don't like spending too much effort on terrain, and the rock stacks are just good enough to be ignored while you look at the models surrounding them.
>>92556382
Didn't realize this, honestly a striking resemblance.
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>>92561839
i agree but there are people who arent so strictly diy oriented too
atleast nobody is purchasing pre painted models and terrain, or i hope so
>>
>>92561513
I have that exact same box, it's pretty good and much cheaper than alternatives such as A-Case. Mine took a bit of time/sanding for the shelf grooves to wear out so I don't have to force the shelves in or out though.
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>>92561877
i like it very nice job
wobbly model syndrome/5
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>>92561701
I think Juan Hidalgo 'heavy contrast' series could work, you can paint like 5 minis at the same time and stop at the point you consider good enough, no need to do the full thing
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We Krieging tonight boyos
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>>92561805
An MDF box? If you have glue and a utility knife you're set. If you hobby you have these things.
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More steel legion, midtones and highlights firming up for a few minutes before blending. The guy from yesterday is drying well so I scratched some weathering on his armor and leather.
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>>92561701
That's not so bad. Do you want to improve a lot or just get decent results fast? If the first, start practicing, if the latter, just go with contrast paints.
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thanks me too
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>>92559307
Cut your finger nails you degenerate
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>>92562534
Lol queer. Do you put on nail polish after?
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>>92562560
Yes.
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>>92562643
Based.
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>>92559544
Ey thanks bro. I refuse to give him money as well. You got any more of his paywalled charts for other paint brands?
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>>92561513
I didn't realize that the prices were that good. These are better than the Jucoci boxes. If I ever need to take a huge army with me on a plane I'll get the large one for sure.
>>
>>92562643
Hot.
>>
>>92562906
https://www.dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/paint_range_compatibility_chart
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>>92561839
This. It's really easy to get into the grind mindset, think "I hAVE to get this done" and forget what the original point was.
>>
>>92559544
>Please do not share :)
This fucking faggot
>>
>>92561983
Who do you think is buying commissioned work?
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>>92559307
Apart from all the the reasons mentioned, skin is not glossy.
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>>92563308
not /wip/ anons thats for sure
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>>92559387
For a 10yo's halloween costume, passable. For anything else it is time to question life choices.
>>
>>92559483
Bluetac and masking tape.
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>>92559722
Why would you pull your arm back? And how much force are you implying is being applued to the brush?
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>>92561513
Top already drooping.
worry.sys
>>
>>92560804
Using it as depicted in that image is retarded. If you howeve ruse it by resting your hand on the ball and your tool on the stick, it is usefull for precision detail work like e.g. eyes. There will be 0 jitter, and any movement will be slow and dampened. Is it worth the price? Probably not unless you do A LOT of detail work (I for instance do small scale minis for ww2 wargames, which is why I got it). For incidental detail work your better off just mcguyvering a rest for your tool (hell, drill a hole at a 45 degree angle into a brick and stick a steel bar into it, done)
>>
>>92560858
Identify target! Destination? Yes sir!
>>
>>92561513
My solution will foreever be to simply host at my iwn place since I have the space.
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>>92561805
>CAD and lasercutting
>for an MDF box
>a BOX
Bruh pls
>>
Alright so I finally have everything I need for an airbrush. Do I really need one of those big ass booths? I'm gonna be spraying in a pretty well ventilated room (basically right next to a window). Will some cardboard suffice? Also, any last tips or good vids would help.
>>
>>92559544
>wears a silly facemask and every video has a clickbait title
His stuff could end world hunger and I'd still refuse to read it.
>>
>>92563536
If you've got a mask cardboard is ok, if not the first night you spend sneezing black (or whatever color you're spraying) is going to make you wish you had a booth filter.
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>>92563536
Booth not strictly needed, I have one so I don't have to be conscious about overspray unintentionally redecorating ny room, I also don't mind it pushing all the smells out of my window.
A cardboard(box) will be good enough if you're carefull though (or don't give a shit aboit your room)
This only applies to modern water based acryllics. Don't spray lacquers or white spirit diluted oil paints etc. without a booth+respirator (you'll see dumfluencers do it all the time, but the cost of this basic protection is peanuts compared to your lungs).

As for tips, what I do before use is run a couple of drops of cleaner through (emtpying the cup). Then I prep the cup for paint by running some thinner through (but not emptying the cup this time) then I add thinner and paint in about 1:1, thinner first. If I find it is too thick Ill add some water. I have never found it to thin with this method. Then I draw some letters with the brush on a piece of paper dialing in my psi and trigger limiter. Happy spraying.
When done I empty the cup. Then I add spme water and spray untill it comes out clear, I then add drops of cleaner, let it sit for 30 seconds, and spray that out till clear too.
I do this clean when done and between colour switches, so big tip here is to plan your airbrushing ahead of time in a way that limits how often you need to switch colours.
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Which of these bits do I use for my Iron Hands? Is there a book which explains shoulder pad colour, correct trim etc?
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>>92563956
Is the picture not self explanatory?!
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Went back on this miniature, somehow inspired me to paint it comic-y. Trying stuff out basically and not having a plan or being too serious or meticulous about it.
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>>92564209
And the back.
Seeing the pictures on a white background makes it easier to see where to push lines contrast etc, I think I should do that first after laying airbrushed or painted gradients next time.
>>
>>92564209
>>92564224
It hurts to look at.
Great job replicating Tzeentch fuckery.
>>
>>92564259
Thanks anon, I'm not sure how I feel about it yet but I really didn't want something where colours make sense with light highlights in the same tone and whatever and well defined parts. Which I didn't realise was going to be a big headache to paint lol
>>
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>>92563647
>>92563694
I grabbed a respirator from amazon, basically the first one I found but I reckon I won't be needing industrial PPE for some acrylic spraying. The only other thing I'll be spraying is varnish at least for now.
Appreciate the tips, I'll have them in mind. If I'm spraying different shades of the same colour (for highlighting and such) I can be a bit "lazier" and not to a full clean with cleaner, right? Emptying the cup, a bit of water then switching to the new lighter colour should suffice?
>>
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>>92563530
>>92562278
>buy mdf
>measure and cut the 5 sides, then glue them together
>cut 4 strips for each rail to support the shelves
>cut the shelves themselves
>buy some sort of ferrous sheet so the shelves are actually magnetic
>glue all that shit together
Yeah nah, that is an ridiculous amount of work to save myself £30 for a weaker end product, and there is zero chance either of you faggots could get anything close to what GSW offers with a boxcutter
>>
>>92563956
>Is there a book which explains shoulder pad colour, correct trim etc?
Yes

aHR0cHM6Ly9tZWdhLm56L2ZpbGUvU1F4QndhWWIjTkxDNVVTbV9QaTEyaVlCZlNxRTVabjNWd1VXZ1E1ZzBJMk1ybEZGMEFFYw==
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>>92562370
First round of oils done on guardsmen 2 and 3, letting those layers set up overnight and I'll do the weathering tomorrow.
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>>92564460
You only think this because opening your wallet is your substitute for skill, you're so afraid to fail you've never bothered to try.
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>>92564385
My usual color swap protocol is spray water into cup > backflow > dump > spray out > wipe out the cup with a paper towel > repeat. That's plenty to swap between any colors I want. I only use airbrush cleaner for the final clean when putting it away for the day.
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>>92564508
I've never bothered to try because its retarded, do you sew your own clothes too?
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>>92564224
Uzumaki!
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>>92564562
Yes.
Imagine being reliant on greedy merchants for everything.
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>>92564460
If you name every single step anything seems complicated. It's significantly less work to build a storage box than it is to finish a single miniature
>clip model from sprues
>remove moldlines
>remove injection points
>prime
>basecoat miniature (4-5 individual steps)
>shade miniature (2-3 individual steps)
>highlight miniature (4-5 individual steps)
>matte/satin varnish miniature
>apply basing ground texture
>apply rocks and base details
>basecoat ground texture
>drybrush ground texture
>basecoat rocks
>drybrush rocks
>apply tufts
>basecoat base rim
You're going to spend maximum 30 minutes cutting your mdf pieces, and the rest is glue curing which doesn't take any work. Building an mdf box takes the same amount of skill it takes to build a gingerbread house, which is a favorite holiday activity of special education classes all across the globe. You are mentally weak if you can't cut a handful of straight lines and operate a bottle of Elmer's glue
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>>92564562
>I'm not dumb
>Putting together 6$ of mdf with wood glue is dumb
I bet you pay someone to change your tires too
>>
>>92564538
Great to know, by backflow you mean covering the needle and making the thinner flow back into the cup, then cleaning it again, right?
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>>92564682
Yep
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DIY anon still collecting scalps at 4am
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>>92564572
I might have to strip because a Junji Ito inspired Tzeentch army sounds completely amazing
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>>92564722
Could always do a Necron army; they pretty much cornered the market on spindly mechanical walking things with pointy edges.
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I see that both AK 3rd Gen and Army Painter Fanatic have full range bundles. How to the two paint lines compare? I hated the old Army Painter paints but supposedly the new ones are better.
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>>92564798
>full range bundles

Stop right there, do no pass go. Full range bundles are a fucking scam, you will gravitate to 1/3 of the line at most and the rest will gather dust. Better to plan out what you need and get it as you need it, more money to spend on other shit that you will actually use. AK 3rd gen is great, most of the line has the same consistency and they all dry to a similar matte finish.
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>>92564798
From what I hear the Fanatic line is roughly on par with every other major line, so really amazing for a non-transparent AP product but completely unremarkable otherwise.
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>paint with Army Painter for years because I got one of their big bundle boxes on a ridiculous deal from an LGS going-out-of-business sale ages ago
>always go "they're just fine, I don't know why everyone is complaining about them"
>need new paints, pick up Vallejo to give them a try because my current LGS had them
>pic related when I start painting
I could've been using good paint all these years. I didn't know any better.
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>>92564836
the funny part is vallejo is mid compared to other brands now too, but army painter warpaint is truly an other world of dogshit
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>>92564847
>vallejo is mid compared to other brands now
Really? What happened? I always thought they were THE paint.
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>>92564847
What other brands?

Citadel that costs more than double and AK that costs 50% more?
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>>92564847
I smell a citadel shill.
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>>92564847
I know what you mean. I first tried Army Painter as my old Vallejo orange didn't cover well and my Troll Slayer Orange had dried out. The AP paint was somehow worse and broke once I tried to thin it. I am glad that the local stores have Pro Acryl and AK now.

>>92564861
I think that their paints have always been kind of a mixed bag. You can get one VMC paint that covers well with a good consistency, and another with awful coverage and runny consistency. Their game color lines including the new one have weird bubbly and are shiny due to what they mix in to make the paint more durable (just use varnish lmao). You can obviously do good work with them, but I wish that they were more consistent and didn't make weird decisions with their game color line.
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>>92564861
>>92564887
>>92564875
Ak and ProAcryl. Ak in paticular is just upgraded vallejo cause the same colors but better pigment, also the new vallejo has bubbling problems. AK 3rd gen is not more expensive than vallejo in the states, I don't know where you're buying it from but i got a ton from an ebay hobby shop and it was cheap.>>92564871
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>>92564871
This seller also offers 20% off every 4th bottle. Half my paint collection is old vallejo, I love the paints but AK to me is just an upgrade directly and its my workhorse paint after they changed the formula for vallejo. Colors like Golden Olive went from problems to work with to easy to work with from the brand switch due to the more pigment.
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>>92564460
>that is an ridiculous amount of work
You described 3 steps that are actual work. You are taught how to cut squares from wood in primary school.
Your problem is being impaired.
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>>92564496
Oils look so much better than eavy metal style.
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>>92564562
Why are you compairing cutting six squares and glueing them together with making clothes? Humans, as a species, made boxes long before sewing was a thing.
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>>92564696
I said it last week in a thread, we have the same schizo shitting up the thread at the same time if day.
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>>92564959
That sounds like an issue between you and yourself.
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>>92564760
That or Slaanesh, actually.
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>>92564963
Nah, schizo gonna schiz.
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>>92564980
Yeah, apparently you will.
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First attempt with nmm
Works well with comicbook style. Gotta redo the eyes but I think he'll look ok in the table
Please call me bad and racial slurs
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>>92565061
More flattering angle
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>>92565072
But it's still sideways.
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>>92565123
its a feature not a bug as they say
looks nice even if it made me break my neck
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>>92557832
>You smell that? Smells like victory!
No sir I think that's marijuana
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>>92565954
Gods gift.
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How can I improve this?
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>>92556021
I hope it's not too late but you need to sand that wood really good. Last wood cannon I made, while I painted it, some weird thing happened, little bits of wood that I didn't sand off expanded and there was tons of pointy protrusions that looked like I sprayed it with sand. Looked terrible. I even tried sanding after but just didn't work. It's like the wood absorbed the wet and popped bits of spliters out.
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>>92546960
What do i should use to stripping paint from 3D print resin model? I heard IPA, acetone will melt resin
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>>92566002
Give her a dick
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>>92566002
Armor panels are too clean right now so they're kind of throwing off the balance.
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Anons, I've been Johnny'd
I wish to make my Johnny look nice, but I'm unsure what the best way to paint him is (modern, retro, etc)
I've also not really painted a space marine before, at least not in many years, so I'm unsure how I should tackle him
Should I practice on some other Marines I have first?
I'm going to prime my old Dreadnought soon but I might try painting the Johnny first.
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>>92566245
do as Johnny would, hold him up to your ear and listen, then follow your heart
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>>92566250
Johnny has spoken, and he shall be a Dark Angel against Leviathan
Thank you
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>>92566005
thank you for letting me know!
I'll give it a good sanding once I'm done before and maybe even after priming.
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>>92566198
Itll change, I plan to 3d print a nurgle icon for her right shoulder and do something with the left. The corset is staying though as it's hot, and she'll have no leg armour
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>want to sculpt my own GUO and Beasts of Nurgle
>not sure where to start
anyone got sculpting advice?
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>>92567105
Start with some sketches?
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>>92567105
>sketch/doodle
>armature
>bulk with cheaper product
>basic shapes
>sculpt part by part
>refine
>refine further
>refine even more

Also depends which product are you gonna use, for mini sculpting either epoxy putty or polymer clay are the most common choices.
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>>92551609
Wait
There people buying resin minis from GW and not a recaster?
Lmao why?
just give a single reason why you would do this
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>>92567358
Easier, faster, they speak good english if I need support. Its hard to find recasters now.

>>92551609
Email GW with a that picture and they will send you a new one. GW has excellent customer support. Sorry your project is delayed though. Btw I think those pockmarks are supposed to be there. They do not look like bubbles to me, not smooth or perfectly round enough. They look like marks the sculpter would make with a needle tool.
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>>92547701
Make the gun shorter and give it a different nozzle. Right now it looks nothing like a flamethrower, especially due to that angled muzzle break, that just reads "lascannon" to everyone familiar with 40k
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>>92567358
>Buy resin from Chang for half off GW price +$30 shipping
>It's completely muddled shit
>Money stolen
You played yourself.
>>
>>92567544
Just find some nerd in your area with a good quality 3D printer
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>>92566002
Chip away bits off of the sword to make it look like it's decaying due to rust, same for shoulders, drill some shallow holes into them.
Also personally I would get rid of the winged symbols on the knees, if you want something to be there you can greenstuff some pustules or other nasty shit on there.
Speaking of nasty things, use greenstuff to reshape the bouquet of flowers into some nasty looking mushrooms or plants, or even make a wasp hive out of it.
Lastly, that cloak should be tattered to fuck.
>>
>>92553536
>No Fun Allowed
>>
Tell me anon, do you incorporate oil paints into your minipainting workflow?
How do you go about it?
Refrain from answering people who exclusively paint with oils, im interested in acrylic+oils.
>>
>>92568006
It's not a problem as long as you let them thoroughly dry. Paint shrinks, so if your oil isn't fully dry yet and you paint acrylics over it, the latter may come off.
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>>92568006
You just use them like a regular acrylic wash. Just be careful with contrast paints, they might rub off when you remove the oil. Just varnish before applying the oils/enamels.
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>>92568014
But how do YOU use it?
Basecoat acrylic, then oils? Only for oil washes? maybe zenithal, then oils, wipe excess and refine with acrylics?
elaborate please
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>>92568016
There are more uses for oils besides washes, anon
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>>92568025
*BRAAAAP*
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>>92568019
It's main feature is wet blending. That's the thing oil can do that acrylics can't, so that's what I use it for. Big transitions are easier with an airbrush, but many small transitions are much easier to wet blend, because glazing is a pain in the dick.
>>
>>92568036
Mind posting minis painted in such way?
>>
Hello, what is medium and what is it used for? I seen people saying its for like making more paint, and other saying its to make transparent paint?
>>
Please help, i'm buying more paints than actual painting
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>>92568429
Medium is the sticky goop that pigment floats in to make paint. Basically transparent paint.
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>>92568456
So i can use it to make transparent paint? Is any kind of medium is fine since vallejo stuff is not selling in my country?
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>>92568461
You could. You don't need brand medium, just make sure it's the right type. If you want acrylic paint, you need acrylic medium.
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>>92568450
I'm buying more models than I'm painting
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>>92568485
What do you mean by the right type? There are different type of medium?
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>>92568429
Medium is the part of the paint that makes paint stick. The part of the paint that gives the paint the color is called pigment. Acrylic paint has acrylic medium which can be reduced with water. Once it dries however it's permanent. >>92568461 If you can't find vallejo in your country try any acrylic paint. Miniature paint has finely ground pigment so is best for small miniatures, but any acrylic paint will work. Games Workshop, Coat D'Arms, P3, Reaper, Army Painter, etc are all examples of miniature paint. But if it is hard to get where you are at acrylic craft paint like FolkArt will work. Artist quality acrylic paint will also work like Liquitex. If you have a model shop or hobby shop or craft store like Hobby Lobby, Michaels, or a Games Workshop in your area they can explain more and guide you.
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>>92568539
Yes anon, paint is nothing but powdered pigments suspended in a medium.
The medium is what gives paint its specific properties, for example oil paints use linseed oil as medium, so you can add linseed oil to oil paints to thin them. (also mineral spirits but thats a solvent not a medium)
Acrylic paints use....acrylic medium.
Alcohol based paints... well, you get it.

You have to use the appropriate medium for the specific paint you're using.
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>>92568723
Forgot to add: acrylic paint can be thinned with water as they're compatible, but water itself its not a medium, in this case it works as a solvent.
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>>92568006
Oil paint and acrylic paint can't be mixed together but they can be layered on top of each other, but the oil should go on top. You can put little touches of acrylic on top of oil paint, but you don't want to do large sections like that because oil paint is flexible and breathes so it will crack the acrylic layer above it. Typically the model is first primed with acrylic primer as normal, then large sections will be painted with acrylics, and then oils are used for special effects or blending nice colors together. Oil paint takes a long time to dry, sometimes as long as a year in canvas painting, but when we paint miniatures the layers are very thin so dry a little faster, maybe a week max before it's as hard as it will get. But oil paint stays a little rubbery and flexible so you won't have as hard a finish as with acrylics. Oil paint should be reduced with some thinner. With acrylics we use water as thinner, but with oils you need odorless mineral spirits, the lowest odor version is called Gamsol (gamblin brand solvent), and it's a harsh chemical some people can't be around, and it dissolves and stripes oils and most kinds of plastic so you don't want to use it on a model that isn't primed and sealed with at least one or two layers of acrylic paint. Solvent is also harsh on the hairs of your brush so you should use a synthetic brush most of the time and if you do use a natural hair wash it out with soap and water after and apply human hair conditioner and reshape the hairs to preserve it as long as possible. Solvent can also dissolve glues so only use as much as necessary to reduce the oil paint to the right transparency for the purpose. Oil paint dries to a higher gloss than acrylics so be prepared for that. You can do oil based washes, glazes, and regular layering, but oil paint has more body and doesn't flatten out as much as acrylic so there is a limit to how much you can apply especially in one go. The proper technique for...
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>>92568006
I mainly do scales. All basecoating I do with acrylics, everything else with oils. Metallics are the excsption which are done with, well, metallics. I have never seen NMM that looked good, especially not on scales, it can look stylistically cool, but it never looks like metal (comparable to how cell shading can look stylistically cool, but will never look like actual shading).
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>>92568754
...layering is to apply a small amount of oil paint on a spot of the model, usually the higher spots and to blend down towards the darker areas with a clean soft brush and then repeat as necessary. So generally the acrylic layer is used to lay in the dark base colors and the oil layers are used for midtones and highlights. But after the acrylic or oil layer is dry and hard you can apply an oil wash to darken recesses by reducing the oil paint with a little more solvent and using a fine pointed brush to run the paint into crevices or recesses. Because it's slightly shiny oil paint washes like these are often used to create oil grime effects on metal parts. Because oil paint takes a long time to dry and harden another way oil paint can be used is applied without any solvent or very little and as it hardens just a bit a Q-tip, soft lint free cloth, or brush can be used to remove the oil paint from raised areas easily. By applying solvent to the removal device you can remove more of it more easily. This is called antiquing (a word only us old fags still use) and during antiquing usually the acrylic layer is lighter and the oil paint darker so that when the oil paint is removed from the raised areas the highlights appear.
That's about it. Generally if the model is very small like a dwarf oil paint isn't such a great idea, but as the model gets larger it makes more sense to use oil paint because blending gets easier. Useful for dinos and elephants and winged creatures and such.
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>>92568824
Do I need to varnish after an oil layer if I want to add the final touches with acrylic?
Supposing the oil paint is properly dry, that is.
Same for oil washes?
>>
>>92568824
Oh and make sure you clean your brushes with a little more solvent after or soap and water after and apply your hair conditioner. Oil paint will dry hard on your brushes if you don't. Apply human hair conditioner even to your synthetic brushes to make them last longer and reshape the tip.
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>>92553724
Who hurt you?
>>
>>92568838
no, you don't want to put an acrylic or polyurethane varnish layer over oils or the varnish layer may crack. You just have to make sure the oil layer is sufficiently hardened. Oil paint doesn't ever really dry. It oxidizes, so it is like a gum or resin having safflower or linseed oil as its medium. Harder resins are sometimes added to oil paint or used as a varnish layer. These resins are made from a tree sap called dammar. Dammar varnish is available from art stores like Dick Blick and can be reduced with a little solvent or linseed or safflower oil to make it less tacky and more easily spread. But you don't generally varnish oil layers in miniature painting because the primary reason we varnish oil paintings is to protect the canvas and to even out the gloss. If you are oil painting a miniature usually every section of the model will have similar gloss just because your brush will touch all parts eventually, but you can use dammar varnish if you want to as a final layer but you should wait a week before applying. Dammar varnish is fine over acrylics, but acrylic varnish isn't good over oils. Oil paint can be VERY oily, so it's a good idea to squirt a little out onto a brown paper bag or piece of cardstock and allow the paper to absorb a lot of the oil before beginning otherwise the oil paint will be runny and won't stay where you put it and blending will be more difficult, but if you are doing an oil wash that's not necessary as the thinner is enough to break up the oil and the runny consistency is desirable, but if you are applying a dot of paint and then blending it out as when you do a normal layering process an oily paint is a bitch. You won't a paint with more body in that case.
>>
>>92568723
>>92568692
So if i want to make my acrylic paint goes transparent i will need to add a few drop of water onto my paint then add a few drop of medium?
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>>92568927
Yes, just water alone will help make the paint more transparent, but it also breaks up the medium making the paint flow more easily. That's usually what we do during the painting process because it's easy. And then we swish our brush in water when we are done to clean our brush before putting it away. But if we want to make the paint more transparent and for it to have the same flow properties as paint that has not been reduced with water we add a little water and a little extra medium so it remains a little thicker but becomes more transparent. Acrylic medium appears at first to be white but it dries clear.
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>>92568918
Did chatgpt write this
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>>92559307
Trim your nails
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>>92569016
But its useful sometime though
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>>92568999
No. Probably you think I'm long winded though and I understand, but I know a lot of stuff and I won't live forever so I might as well.
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>>92560634
Too soon
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>>92561620
Stop being a slut for 3D printers!
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>>92561678
>both unschooled about diy and repelled by it
My hobby is painting miniatures, not building boxes
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New thread:

>>92569094
>>92569094
>>92569094
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>>92564676
>you pay someone to change your tires
...yes?
I didn't learn 3 foreign languages, study most of my life and work 40+ hours a week to waste *any* of my free time on *any* manual labour that I don't find to be fun.
I also hire a guy to fix my sink. Bite me.
>>
>>92569078
I think this is honestly the last arguement we need about this DIY-everything anon btfo.
Let´s keep this in this thread, i just wanted to recommand anon a nice product.
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>>92568450
It's a perfectly respectable hobby in itself
>>
>>92564925
>You are taught how to cut squares from wood in primary school
Hello, boomer.
Unfortunately, that skill is no longer taught in primary school. Woodwork is now an optional class in secondary.
>>
>>92568999
No anon, it's called autism.
>>
>>92567870
>the joke

>your tiny pinhead on a massive power armored body
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>>92565072
Looks gud nice style
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>>92564224
Pretty
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>>92561605
Awesome creatures
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>>92560715
That's fine if that's the color you want. Priming is just a base color that helps others to stick. the white is a little strong on the top. I would have left a little more red up there but you can always hand paint red back in where you want it like in the recesses and around the shadowed areas and paint some pinkish edges on the red areas to even the two colors out. The red is really pretty
>>
>>92557633
Fanatic range is decent but you'll need to go outside the range for dark reds, dark olive green, and near blacks. Both triads of red start at the midtone and have five highlights. The second darkest "Black and grey" is the highlight from their Air line rather than the mid.



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