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This is a general for everything 3D printed relating to /tg/ from sci-fi, fantasy, historicals, fantasy football, and more! Share your printed minis, terrain, print fails, 3d modeling, printing advice, works in progress, or anything else /tg/-related to 3D printing.

>DO:
- Post pics of your prints be they fails or triumphs
- Keep discussion/photos about tabletop games only
- Post your resin/printer/settings for faster advice
- Help your fellow anons with advice

>TRY TO:
- Not make a new thread until old one dies
- Not encourage namefags, tripfags, fumefags and coomers
- Not spoonfeed
- Not war over Filament/Resin consoles
- Keep your model pics naked (no paint/undercoat only)
- Look after small artists/studios
- Buy something from or tip an artist/studio you like
- Read the last 3 threads before posting

>FAQ
https://pastebin.com/raw/Lv0vvd7d

>Resources
https://pastebin.com/raw/hmSJixAy

>Guides (Install 4ChanX script for better experience)
FDM Troubleshooter: https://pastebin.com/raw/H1en2ghM
Resin Troubleshooter: https://pastebin.com/raw/SbYWdMnC
Resin Safety: https://radtech.org/safe-handling-of-3d-printing-resins/
Printer Buying: https://pastebin.com/raw/1Kfib5YK

https://youtu.be/roAqm5c3rfU
https://youtu.be/koMNXvSlpSs
https://youtu.be/cjDpmh2NQMU
https://youtu.be/xS7h_5di3Tc
https://youtu.be/GL-9Ia0SibQ
https://youtu.be/xw_ClxnJ1_U
https://youtu.be/ZXJQ5vQG0ZA
https://youtu.be/bWUfshO17b8
https://youtu.be/cGAgyRVK32g
https://youtu.be/YMO4Va2vT3Q

>Last Thread: >>93011687
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Nnaaa
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Does anyone recognize this print? Saw it at Hobby Town USA but the owner wasn't there.
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Anyone find any decent female giant models in the vein of OP's pic that doesn't look like utter crap?
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My friend has just a 3d printer mainly for hobby/Warhammer 40k.

He has said if there are things I like the look of he'd be happy to print them. There are a few of us who have gotten back into it and I think he's really started to enjoy things and get excited.

Basically I feel a bit shitty just asking him to print stuff off for me in terms of resin and just run time. As someone who knows fuck all about 3dp, asking here

>What would you most want to get as a thank you or payment for printing ?

Resin ?
STL of something he might want.

Don't want to take the piss and want to get him something useful, don't want to just give him a bunch of resin that will expire (does resin expire?) before he will ever use it...
>>
>>93078798
Get him the bottle of resin he will use to print your stuff. Beside that, just be liberal with friendly beers and stuff, I guess.
>>
>>93078798
Often good gifts are something they would like, but not buy for themselves.
So maybe some special resin like elastic or castable.
Or maybe a lychee subscription? Its a software for printing many like, and it has a subscription tier.
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I finally got around to print a vehicle by Nfeyma. A very cute tankette, and i like it a lot. I'll print one or two of the other variants too, just because this worked so nicely.
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>>93078798
First you should see what and how much you would want him to print for you. Then ask him if you could give him an amazon coupon so he can buy a bottle of resin of his choosing. If you just show up with a random bottle of resin, chances are his settings are not dialed in for that stuff.
And if you just want 2 space marines and he says its fine, then so be it.
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>>93079079
Cute. I'm thinking of printing up the durandal with the mod parts to make it a macharius proxy.
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>>93079727
>durandal

Size wise, its like the Rogal Dorn i think?
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>>93079768
Yeah, it's a proxy for the dorn. But I hate the dorn, it's ugly as sin and the durandal as designed is still not great looking (the turret looks like a bar of soap, still better than the dorn though). The mod parts extend the hull, have the wings that go over the tracks and a completely different turret. The model will probably end up shorter than an actual macharius.
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>>93079933
Go for it. Personally i'm always a bit afraid of printing big vehicles or big things in general, thats why i went for this small tanks first.

Design wise, i like the "not"-malcador the most of nfeymas stuff
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>>93080012
To give you a rough idea of what it'll look like. And yes, the baselard looks great.
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>>93079727
>>93080088
After putting it together in blender, I realise that it's only mod parts and uses non of the original durandal bits. In fact the only thing missing from it are the sponsons and their weapons which are from the kli-san (which is free for the unsupported version).
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>>93079079
Absolutely love his stuff. How are the presupports?
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>>93080681
I've printed the staghound and the ammit a while ago. I think it was the ammit from which the supports came away beautifully, but the stag was still well supported.
>>
Okay, so, I want to make myself a living out of creating 3D printable models, but I have no drawing skills and close to no experience on Blender. Where do I begin and how viable is to do this?
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>>93081315
It's not even remotely viable
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>>93081315
if you have no experience and no fundamental skills (such as drawing and anatomy) you will not get a foothold. There are thousands of actual talented artists that cannot get a start in the industry because it is extremely saturated. Start it as a hobby you want to try get into. Do not do it with the mindset you want to make money from it, because it is extremely unlikely that you will.
>>
>>93081315
If you have no talent and experience in a field, why would you want to try to make a living in it? Unless you have passion out the asshole and sink a fuckload of time to actually get competent and skilled at it, then don't bother.
>>
>>93078747
Laser forge
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>>93081706
Arigato, anon-sama.
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>>93081315
A friend of mine went to art college and spends all his free time doing 3D art and has connections in the video game and CGI industries and still can't make a better living at it than his regular job.
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>>93083412
Someone has to be the one who asks you if you'd like fries with that, anon.
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>>93084416
There is more demand for those fries than there are for 3D models.
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More Nnnaaaa
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How retarded would I be to buy a FDM printer exclusively for terrain? I like my Resin printer just fine, but I'd never use it for anything really large. And most of my terrain ends up scratch-built to at least some degree... glued on bits of balsa wood and plasticard. But the more I think about it, the more it seems like base substructures in FDM would be really convenient. Why shouldn't I buy an entry-mid level printer for terrain?
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>>93086013
I love my fdm terrain. It's fun, looks decent and doesn't take me fucking hrs to make. These might be sideways but I stopped caring.
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>>93086013
Plus you get the option for using clear filament which allows for light diffusion.
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>>93086078
Stick a bike light in it and everyone goes oooooh and aaaaaaah.
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>>93085902
fuck off toytranny ywnbaw
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>>93086096
Lolifag, actually. Tyvm. And I'm glad iwnbaw, because I prefer having my dick
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>>93086132
whatever. you'll end the same way
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>>93086089
Alright that pic kinda sold me. Interior Light + clear filament is a good meme. What printer do you use / would you recommend it?
>>
>mars 5 announcement next week
4 must be a lemon
>>
>>93080681

I cant complain about the presupports.
pic related is what i printed so far, and i only got one fail from the presupports on that rear light (or whatever it is) on the green hull. But most likely that was my own fault, because i printed that plate during the night. and my window was open in the room with the printer and it was colder than expected. (in general its a very fresh june here, so maybe i shouldn't print at night for a few weeks).
I'm printing another hull, and then the missing tracks and smaller parts like guns for the whole bunch.
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>>93086336
and the pic ofc..
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>>93081315
Listen to the other Anons.
Pic related is a random pic from google, when i entered "STL miniature" just now.
Ask yourself: why should anyone buy yours, if there are literally thousands upon thousands of miniatures from probably hundreds of creators out there, that are that quality or better.

Sure, maybe you will sell the odd STL file here and there, but making a living from it? Nope.
There are people that make 20+ of pic related quality miniatures every month and they get barely more than 50 subscribers on any given plattform.

What you could do is scanning of GW (or maybe even other) stuff and selling those STLs. You need no creative talent for it, and there is a guaranteed market for that product and far less competition.
All you need is the equipment and the software knowledge on how to clean the scans.
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>>93086229
All 3 of those were printed on an ender 3. They have been my workhorses for a few years now. Lately I picked up an Elegoo Neptune 3 max and this thing is the fucking bees knees. Actually in process of retiring my enders and swapping out for elegoo because I was so impressed.
So, I'd say go ahead and look at the Elegoo Neptune 3 series. They have all sizes and they are low budget which is great. Plug and play out of the box.

And one more picture for the thread.
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>>93086434
FUCKER.
>>
>>93081315
Not viable at all.
Just start learning how to do it, and if you happen to enjoy it, keep doing it and throw all your shit out there to be downloaded for free, at a good reliable pace because nobody's going to ever notice some asshole sculpting a dude every six months.

If you luck out and people like your stuff, make it freemium: anything you do still comes out for free (assume your shit is going to get pirated anyway), but those who support you will get additional perks (a one/two month advance release, pick out whatever you're going to work on next, rigged and poseable .blend files, etc).

I call it The Incase Way (or the EmanG's, if you want to dabble in the dangerous world of copyright/trademark infringement, after all he was making a good 8k a month before GW sued him into bankrupcy), and I honestly think it is the only sensible way to make stuff on the internet.

You're probably among the uncountable who try, only to crash and burn (especially if you start with the "gonna make money" mindset from the get go), but hey, maybe you will be the one guy who makes it.
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>>93086434
I was looking into an Ender but my friend talked me out of it. He said he used to have an Ender 3 V2 and it was apparently a huge pain in the ass to him. I have a relatively low tolerance for putting effort into things so I might as well listen to him... the Elgoo looks like a sweet rig. That detail's damn pretty and I dig ease of use.
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>>93086221
Aww poor anon. Are you projecting again? Is this your first day on the interwebs? How cute
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>>93086013
Not retarded at all.
What's retarded, is using SLA for terrain. The odd detail, sure. But terrain in general? That's a waste of resin.

>>93086229
Literally anything after the generation of the Ender 3 became reliable is just quality of life/print volume.
I still print everything on my cheap-ass E3Pro (with some QoL upgrades that I popped in along the way) with a busted print bed patched up with paper tape, I assume new-ish ones are set up in a much more plug-and-play way. Pick a budget and a reliable brand, I'm sure they don't differ much from one-another.
>>
>>93086644
Yeah they took a bit of adjustment and parts swapping. They're still good machines, it's just with all tech it needs updated every few years. Hope it works out for you anon. Hit up YouTube for all your beginner printing needs.
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>>93086594
If our Anon here would be very talented, then the mentioned above Nfeyma might serve as a good example. He does not release much stuff, its GW proxies, i.e. it has a market, and he does it for free, but people have the option to support him, to get presupported files.

A good example why its not viable at all:
He has currently 158 subscribers on MMF, so thats 1580 per month if we assume its mostly the $10, not $5 tier.

Then he sells stuff directly on Cults, for example:
https://cults3d.com/de/modell-3d/spiel/pelte-troop-carrier-and-onager-weapons-carrier

It has 34 downloads since its creation in December 2023, which nets our guy 340€ in total.

No idea if the cults numbers are correct, but overall he earned a bit over 11,7k€ there. Which is not bad, but he sells files on Cults since 18 months..

Then he has Patreon, which earns, if correctly displayed) 1400 per month.

So its around 3k from Patreon and MMF per month + Cults sales (around 650 per month apparently)

So in total he earns around 3600 before taxes with his tank STLs, which are amazing.
Depending on your location, 3600 before taxes as a main income source is not really amazing tho.
>>
>>93086771
>Depending on your location, 3600 before taxes as a main income source is not really amazing tho.

3.6K PER MONTH NOT ENOUGH?
Dude, either life in the US is a living hell made to grind the middle class into abject poverty, or you are completely tripping.

I coasted for nearly two years on a 20k pre-taxes freelance job, and I wasn't living like a hobo in the meantime. I live in Europe, tho.
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>>93086771
3600/month isn't bad at all for doing something you love, but I'd say he deserves more for how hard he works.
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>>93087032
In Euro, thats below 45k, and thats before taxes.
Sure, you wont starve. But thats it.
I could not afford my appartment and car with that little money every month, and i'm in Europe too. (and i wont even start calculating how much a wife, children or an actual house would cost).
If i were 20, hell yes. But with 40? No, 3600 is a joke.

And lets not forget, Nfeyma is very good, and its not a given that anyone would even get to those 3600 per month. Quite the contrary.
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>>93087120
>In Euro, thats below 45k, and thats before taxes.

That's still like 2.5k a month.
Sure, children will thank that very fast, but for a single person/dual income household without children, I can't see how that's not enough to live comfortably.

Again, 20k lasted me almost two year, living alone, with a car, buying healthy groceries, at least two social gathering a week (either going out for a drink or going at some friend's), 3d printing as a hobby, the only thing I didn't do was traveling because I don't much care for it.

Maybe I'm just content with modest means, I dunno.

---

But there's not here or there: point is that would-be-sculptor anon will probably fail.
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>>93087278
>point is that would-be-sculptor anon will probably fail.

Thats for sure.
And lets agree that it might be easier in Romania to stay alive from such a job than in Germany or Switzerland.
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>>93076294
>my print made it to another thread
here's progress
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>>93087627
nice leg
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>>93087627
>>93090203
Definitely didn't skip leg day. :^)
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Anyone notice these subtle, verticle lines across their 3d prints?
What's the cause of this, a dead pixel?
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>>93090533
retard-kun, that line is curved. if it was a dead pixel it'd be perfectly straight along the vertical axis to which the mini was aligned.
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>>93090533
I'd suspect some sort of rendering issue from your slicer first. Throw the sliced file into UVtools or similar, see what the actual masks look like.
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>>93086013
Just buy one. Within a month of having one you'll be finding uses for it you never knew you had, never mind the terrain.
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>>93087120
Try stepping out of your liberal inner city bubble.
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>>93095096
Slapping together some plastic thingamabob to fix random shit in your house is oddly satisfying, and I can't even use CAD for shit so I just boolean the hell out of some basic primitive shapes in Windows3DBuilder or Meshmixer.
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One more without a turret and i'll get to paint them.
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>>93086394
That mini is ass.
>>
Printed my first digital kitbash. A proxy for the the Thunderbolt or Voss-pattern fighter. Modeled after the Valkyrie.
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>>93087627
Skin is on point
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>>93076294
Am I allowed to ask for STLs here? I’m trying to find the one for adding gladiator lancer parts to the repulsor because its like $40 to buy and that’s insane
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>>93078798
>What would you most want to get as a thank you or payment for printing ?
Money honestly. You use up resin/nitrile/ipa/electricity/fep/LCD screen wear/time/waste disposal costs when doing this stuff and if it's just a few small figures no biggie but if you're printing a lot of stuff payment makes it far, far more wortwhile.
If it's a friend you can still get away with paying less for minis than buying them off etsy or whatever and still make the printer guy better off in the long run.
>>
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hey anons, was wondering if anyone had any vermillion miniatures stls, specifically any from their fallout range would be perfect, am getting into wasteland warfare and wanted to print some models
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>>93081315
It's viable if you learn fast and target a niche, like say sculpting full warhammer 40K/Old World army lines (some of which have stiff competition, some of which have nearly none) with good sculpts that print and paint well for the table, but going in without a plan or skills will be very hard.
>>
Would you not like being able to print in color?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QazoNt6qPG4
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>>93106238
Yes, but leasing a Mimaki is like 300k+/year last time I checked and they're pro machines.
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>>93107922
>300k+/year last time I checked and they're pro machines.
I would assume that... but maybe in... dont know... 30 years?
the technology could be dirth cheap.... or we could be all dead
>>
>>93076294
Retarded anon here, trying to read some of the pastebins but feeling lost. Is there a babbies first machine or decent video to tell me where to start? What to get etc?
>>
>>93111129
There's two kind of machines that are currently being used by consumers.
FDM printers which heats plastic in layers, which aren't great at small details but good for hardiness and material costs of PLA are low. For wargames this is what you'd use for terrain or printing bases. (also useful for just making stuff around the house)
Newer machines usually have features that make them less of a pain to deal with but they're still plenty techy. If you don't know that you need a build plate larger than 180x180x180 then the Bambu Lab A1 mini is the go-to rec right now for ease of use out of the box.
Getting good results with these can require some work on dialling them in on your part but there's not much mess involved.

The other type is resin printers (DLP-, LCD-, SLA- printers) hardens resin with light and captures fine details well and are useful for miniatures and figurines. These require more extraneous materials for cleaning up the finished products like nitrile gloves/isopropanol/screens and have costlier materials (ABS-like resin for minis) and imo are slightly harder to get started with depending on the material but once you know what to do they're about as easy to get repeat good results with, inherently the cleanup of these is messier. (also needs more initial tool investment than FDM due to the cleanup process, cure & wash or homemade solution, pet food mats, plastic scrapers, masks that filter organic vapours, eye protection etc)
Good entry level machines are the Elegoo Mars series. (maybe phrozen too, avoid anycubic with their shit support)

Both require a separate ventilated space from your living space, and resin requires a decently-sized cleanup area as well. People who claim otherwise are retards who don't care about their long-term health and think MSDS sheets are witchcraft.
FDM creates fumes from burning plastic, Resin is an allergen that can cause dermatitis and allergic reactions and isopropanol (or acetone) fumes are toxic.
>>
>>93111917
Aside from the machines:
For FDM you get what you need with the machine (like nozzles, scrapers etc) except maybe a proper ruler and a way to connect a laptop to the machine for calibration purposes but you don't need this immediately and maybe not at all on newer machines. Only upgrade i'd recommend if you don't get it with the machine itself is a flex plate. Software like Cura or similar. Lots of models are free online and some like terrain can be pirated. Can be done in a small ventilated space.

Resin recs: 2+ liters of isopropanol, 100+ nitrile gloves (you go through these pretty fast), 1L+ of ABS-like resin, 2-3 airtight containers for isopropanol/water, plastic scrapers, a soft bristle toothbrush, workshop paper towel roll, oil filter funnel and coffee/paint filters to clean IPA, protective glasses, one larger or two small pet feeding mats (same as a wham bam mat but at 1/4th the cost), an Elegoo cure & wash or similar solution (avoid anycubic even the buttons on it are finicky as fuck) 1) way to wash your minis in IPA and 2) cure them in UV lights to harden them. A nearby trashbag you can seal, a sink to get hot water from, a plastic jerrycan for old IPA and can be a godend when you need them. Software like Lychee or Chitubox. Lots of STL models can be pirated. Obviously you need a decently sized VENTILATED workspace with a bench you don't mind fouling up with spills from IPA, resin etc.

As can be seen above at a glance resin is more costly and messy by far (all assuming you're working with simple PLA and not more toxic materials like ABS).
The learning curve is roughly similar though FDM has a much higher skill ceiling imo since there's more possibility to dial in your prints.

Just don't be that retard who places it in your regular living space and breathes in toxic fumes all day.
>>
>>93112040
>(all assuming you're working with simple PLA and not more toxic materials like ABS).
Assumption is for FDM machines to be clear.
PLA/PLA+ is the simple stuff everyone uses, ABS (necessary for automobile parts among other things) needs more tools like a heated enclosure and creates far, far more directly toxic fumes that you have to actively filter and fan-vent out with some chute system.
>>
Oh, and as an extra info that's good to know FDM has micro-porous surfaces due to the layer burn-in method so it can trap bacteria in the long-term.
For most things this doesn't matter at all but if you're going to use a print on like your feet or toothbrush you might want to polyurethane spray/dip a couple of layers on it for safety. (or clean with hot water and soap I guess but realistically you're not going to)
For anything dealing with food whatsoever you need to use a food safe polyurethane coating, food safe epoxy or food safe resin.
>>
>>93112040
>Resin recs: 2+ liters of isopropanol, 100+ nitrile gloves (you go through these pretty fast), 1L+ of ABS-like resin, 2-3 airtight containers for isopropanol/water, plastic scrapers, a soft bristle toothbrush, workshop paper towel roll, oil filter funnel and coffee/paint filters to clean IPA, protective glasses, one larger or two small pet feeding mats (same as a wham bam mat but at 1/4th the cost), an Elegoo cure & wash or similar solution (avoid anycubic even the buttons on it are finicky as fuck) 1) way to wash your minis in IPA and 2) cure them in UV lights to harden them. A nearby trashbag you can seal, a sink to get hot water from, a plastic jerrycan for old IPA

Not even half of that stuff is needed for a beginner.
>>
>>93112774
You're going to need all of it once you actually start printing even your first liter of resin or you're going to get white residue ruining your prints before you've finished, break prints from those dogshit metal scrapers, fuck up your eyes without protection and waste a whole lot more on cleaning up and learning.
The only real big costs are the machines and the resin/ipa/nitrile gloves. The rest can be picked up for a few dollars each off amazon.
>>
I am reasonably new to the hobby but i find it crazy how few quality tg related stl's are out there to get for free.
I am honestly shocked there isnt a discord or something more accessible than telegram
>>
>>93112892
Making 3D models that can be 3D printed takes time, effort and artistic sense, so of course people want to get paid for it.
>>
>>93112926
Yea naturally but that is the case for a lot of other digital art and there is usually a lot of free content regardless.
I have for e.g never had to pay to get hold of cool character art or scenery to use for games.
>>
>>93112892
What exactly is less accessible about telegram than discord?

Literally everything is out there for free, and after a while you will realize that buying new SSDs to store all the files can actually be a bigger cost than the actual printing machine and supplies but why do you think people will serve it to you (a newbie) on a silver plate?
>>
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>>93112975
I dont have to hand over my number for discord is the big one.
I havnt expected people to serve anything to me on a platter. I help moderate the gamefinder so i get the value of gatekeeping / I saw the FAQ and i understand it was designed to filter dumbies like me.

Im just mentioning my current struggles finding models that excite me enough to print without forking out cash. I wouldnt be shocked to find out there was just an obstacle or twk and once its passed everything opens up and ill feel silly thinking there wasnt stuff out there.
>>
>>93113008
Its an app for chatting like whatsapp or similar apps. of course you give them your number? How can this be an obstacle? Do you have a smartphone?
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>>93113037
Yea but i just dont like it. Its very autistic i know and i dont begrudge getting filtered if thats where everyone goes
>>
>>93113037
You're tying a verified personal identifier (phone number) to potentially illegal actions. Of course telegram is fucking retarded.
If it weren't for all the groups being there I wouldn't use it.
>>
>>93113243
I could try using one of those temporary phone number sites but they feel sketchy
>>
>>93113243
And discord is save?
>>
>>93113301
They're not even legal where I live.
>>93113330
You only need to give a throwaway email for discord so ostensibly, yes.
>>
Want to Upgrade from a Mars 2 mainly for a bigger build plate. Is there any reason not to pre order the Saturn 4 while the price is low or should I go with an older printer like Saturn 2/3? Im printing just for me and friends so just for the hobby and not commercial.
>>
>>93112892
telegram is definitely the best place for STLs and it's easy to use. If you're looking for stuff that's interesting to paint and play, consider subbing to one of the creators on myminifactory. Getting a pack of minis in the style you like every month will prevent burning out
>>93113569
Saturn 4 is mostly QoL upgrades, get Saturn 3 Ultra
>>
>>93114536
QoL upgrades are not to be underestimated. One less failure point if you don't need to level the plate.
>>
>>93116441
Leveling the plate is literally done once and takes less than two minutes. Is it worth the extra cost?
>>
>mfw shitty resin is twice as fast and delivers pretty much the same level of details than the expensive one
I love you Phrozen ABS-like
>>
>>93116928
I mean the Saturn 4 Ultra is worth it due to resin detection and exposure finder tests among other things.
Dunno about the regular Saturn 4 haven't looked at it much.
>>
>>93116957
Yeah, "premium" resin is a meme. There are definitely shitty resins, but the basic stuff always does the job.
>>
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This almost broke me, but it is done. I'm never trying to print another superheavy again.
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>>93121825
I know the feeling.
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testing terrain on FDM since I hate cleaning bigger resin prints
aside from the corner does this seem like it'd suffice for tabletop distance after a light filler primer coat and some painting?
>>
>>93121825
Be thankful you're not retarded like me and you didn't print a whole spartan, put everything together than then in your complacency let one of the tread attach points misalign and leave a huge gap
>>
ACF or FEP for a Mars 4 Ultra?
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>>93121825
You didn't hollow it?
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>>93121825
Its beautiful.
What printer did you use, and how many prints in total?
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>>93076294
Does anyone know where this print is from? Says skullforge but I can't find it
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>>93125096
Dark Fire Designs maybe?
>>
I've read the provided guides, but I don't think with my current setup I can get into 3d printing. Can you guys let me know if there is anyway I can make this work?

So from my understanding I need a well ventilated area for printing and a separate, well ventilated and climate controlled area for curing the resin. My problem is that the only area I have for printing is my bedroom, but I am concerned about the toxic fumes as I have a cat (she mainly stays in the bedroom) and I don't want to affect her. Further I don't have a separate area to cure the resin that is outside of my main living area. I do have access to a shed, but it is not climate controlled and I live in Florida so it can get *very* hot.

Is there a way that I can make this work?
>>
>>93125890
Printer in the bathroom?
You could get an old fridge, and store the printer in there.

Or get a bigger apartment.
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>>93126213
It's actually a 2 bedroom house but I don't have like a spare work room, I feel like most people wouldn't have a spare room in America, idk

I actually do have an old fridge in the shed. The freezer doesn't work but the actual fridge itself is fine. So that is an idea

>Printer in the bathroom
Probably not a great idea? At best I could use my master bath so as not to bother roommate/houseguests but the printer needs to be close to the PC right?
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>>93126264
>but the printer needs to be close to the PC right?

Why?
>>
>>93126308
I thought the printer needed to be wired to the PC, unless I run a 25 foot USB cable or something
>>
>>93125890
You don't need a completely separate area for printing and curing, just enough space to do both. Most temperature problems are from being too cold, so you'll probably be fine in the shed.

>>93126561
You put the files on a USB stick and print from that.
>>
>>93126213
According to reddit printing with resin using anything other than powered ventilation system in a dedicated, non-living space while wearing high quality PPE is effectively a death sentence
Basically the polar opposite of hobbyist friendly
>>
>>93126561
Nope. Files go on usb stick and to the printer.
Some more modern printers can be connected via wifi too, but still have the usb port for the stick.
All data it needs to print comes from the sliced file you create with your pc.
>>
>>93127617
who cares what those idiots think?
>>
>>93125890
Printers like hot weather as it makes resin flow better. It's cold weather you should worry about. Regardless I'd get an inline fan venting from your printer out a window or to a carbon filter.
>>
>possible maps now show nothing
thanks dickflow
>>
>>93124159
It's all hollow, but it's still huge resin parts that end up being very heavy. I actually hollowed pretty aggressively with just a 2.5mm wall in some places, and it still weighs almost five pounds.
>>93124458
I did it on a used Saturn 2, and even with the bigger build area it was four plates.
I made the rookie mistake of offering to print stuff for a friend, and of course he reached straight for the top shelf.
>>
>>93122452
sand that shit if you can.Filler primer won't do much unless you sand it level after filler priming it. All the nibs on the left edge will be visible as well. Use spackle or wood filler for larger gaps and imperfections; it closes larger gaps and sculpts better.
>>
>>93125890
>and a separate
No, you just need enough space in the first one to do cleanup. Basically enough space for a cure & wash machine and enough space for a wet mat to place prints on. So resin machine | wet mat | cure & wash. Maybe a slight bit of extra to place tools on. More space is good but not necessary beyond that.
>My problem is that the only area I have for printing is my bedroom
Yeah you're fucked. I wouldn't even place an FDM printer printing PLA in my sleeping/eating space, nevermind resin where you get VoCs and isopropanol fumes you have to vent.
>and I don't want to affect her.
You will undoubtedly.
>I do have access to a shed, but it is not climate controlled and I live in Florida so it can get *very* hot.
A shed is fine. Heat shouldn't be a huge problem that can't be fixed with appropriate settings like lower lift speeds. Even if the ideal working temp is 70-75F cold is usually the bigger problem with getting resin printing right.
The only issue would be cooling the actual machine electronics to make the machines last longer. (also no direct sunlight so if there are windows put up blinds)
>>
I have a question. I recently found a scan of a model I want to print, exact same details, but its way too big. I guestimated about 25 percent so i set the parameters to 75 scale and it was too small. If i have the original printed thats too big and an actual version of the model, what is the formula to determine the percentage it is larger. For example if the original is 10 inches long by 3 high and 3 wide, but the printed one is 15 long by 4.5 high and 4.5 wide, I know thats 50 percent bigger. Mine is not as convenient as that and Im not sure how to find how much smaller my original is percentage wise than my new one.
>>
>>93135637
There are STLs with a scale, you can place them inside your slicer software and scale your desired model to the mm.
>>
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>>93132347
Sanding the flat bits wouldn't be any trouble but fuck if I'm gonna sand around the details on this
I'd rather just go too heavy on gap filler like I can with my cosplay prints than navigate sanding sticks and sponges while trying to preserve this shit
>>
>>93135813
I do I got that part. What I am wondering is how do I find the scale of my original. Like if the one in the slicer is too big to match the real world counterpart, how do I measure the objects to see what percentage I need to shrink it in the slicer to match. I have a prototype I printed and its too big, but I should be able to measure it and figure out what to shrink it too. I guessed 75 percent but that was too small and not keen to waste more resin and time printing one at 80, 85 or however many attempts it takes to make it right.
>>
>>93135637
>>93135966
(scale you used) / (size it ended up in) x (size you want) = (scale you need)

Basic math mate...
>>
>>93076294
Has anyone scanned the old Inquisitor models GW did? Those seem like the size any printer could mail pretty perfectly and they’re very expensive on eBay.
>>
>>93138028
it printed at 6.75 length, its supposed to be 5.25. using your formula i want to change it from 100 percent to 77.7777 ect precent Sounds right wish me luck. I did 70 percent the first time and it was too small.
>>
>>93087032
I make $1016 a week before taxes and $733 after. I only work 40 hours a week and can tell you its barely enough. I have a mortgage and a car payment. 130k home and a 20k car.
>>
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>>93138028
>expecting children to know basic maths
>in the 21st century
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I am currently decimating stl's in blender to turn them into Tabletop Simulator-usable obj's. Some would call the act of systematically removing the detail of perfectly good stl's blasphemy, but I'm a shut-in who plays most of their wargames online anyway. I'm just making it so I can use my stl's in my wargames.
>>
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Struggling to locate the Onlyscans leak that apparently occurred a few months ago. Was it broken up into numerous files and scattered about, or was it a single archive? Found the odd scan here and there that I assume is from the leak (or from paypigs), but no mother lode.
>>
>>93141419
onlyscams doesn't actually scan anything himself, he's collecting free stuff and ransoming them
>>
>>93141109
What are the limitations of TTS to make it lose all that detail?
>>93141419
I believe they moved the leak to a secret channel then changed the channel to onlypotatoes or something and now just meme potatoes.
>>93141475
He pays people for scans that they buy from the legit scanner and then offerfes them for sale at a cheaper price. Obviously this pisses off the tranny scanning cartel who work out who sold the scan and ban them from their sewing circle.
>>
>>93141541
The need for a computer to be able to handle dozens of models at once in a 2010s era sandbox engine. Loading a single model as-is will crash the game outright, so I lowered the per-model polycount from ~600k to ~12k. The result isn't particularly pretty, but ideal for simulating an entire table worth.
>>
>>93141419
Its individual files, shared literally everywhere.
look for "retro" and "modern"
For example "modern ruined sick soldiers". You should find the rest.

>>93141475
He actually buys too (or tries to get his hands on by getting them shared to him) to re-sell them by himself.
>>
How reasonable is it to set up a resin printer in your laundry room and ventilate the thing using your dryer vent? I have a dryer set up already, could just get a T-junction vent and run a smaller tube up to the printer... Might need to jury rig some shit to make everything fit, but it should be workable, right?
>>
>>93142651
Should work like a charm.
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>grab extra guy's ogre model because I love titanfall
>slice all the presupported stuff thinking it's fine, put it into UVTools to check
>1k+ islands
>several resin traps
where do I even begin with this? still new to this stuff
>>
>>93143360
Just print it?
>>
>>93143360
Run the auto fix?



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