>>93215449
Why didn't anon paint all of the scales?

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>>93215449
>>93209511
Good end.
Despite my mental retardation, I'm getting it close to how it started. 100% right call to not let it sit in acetone overnight. the thorax or whatever the butt is was already getting loose, but the varnish can be peeled off. Slowly taking it off with tweezers.

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>>93215449
I usally don't do incremetal updates. Or post until i'm done at all. But i wanted to break up the "post model" shitstorm last thread and "contrast sloppa" is good for it. Being the WIP title image is such an honor.
>>93215540
Just messing around. trying to make them slightly distinct.

For anon asking in the last thread hobby lobby tends to carry Mr. Hobby brand stuff.

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Sure I‘ll repost. Inq troopers are next, I‘m still waiting for paints in the mail before I can start with the inquisitor and Deathwatch marine.

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>>93209496
>>93209479
>>93209142
>>93209175
>>93209209
>>93209471
>>93209431
I've probably posted it about 3 times in the past 3 threads including 1 or 2 AoS threads but they move p slow when there's no news so that's probably why you see it all the time. I kind of just post the pic when it's slow then come back the next afternoon after yt ppl hours end

>contrast slop
yeah. and?

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>>93215558
good job. anon, saddle land skin looking sexxxy. what color for the feathers?

>>93216372
this one looks a lot better than the other demon spawn or whatever it is, you put more effort and it has a nice gradient, also scales are better suited for contrast

that said, a dark wash on the metals and straps or some blacklining would improve the look a lot but very little effort

>>93216412
with* very little effort

>>93216372
There's nothing wrong with contrast slop if that's what you're aiming for. Reposting the same image for 3 or 4 threads straight including twice in the last one with no visible progress on it is a bit too much, don't you think? It's bound to trigger some schizos which is exactly what happened.

>>93215558
Gonna be honest with you anon I'm not big on that yellowish green you've chosen for the bottom part. Something brighter or more contrasting would've made a lot more sense imo. Also there's a mould line running through the entire fucking arm and an unlceaned cut, are you for real?

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Further to my rant post last night about Vallejo Game Colour metals. The gold is “Polished Gold” by Vallejo game colour after 1 coat. It’s piss thin and awkward to use. By contrast the silvery area is Vallejo model air Aluminium. Silky to use and extremely good coverage. Ignore my shitty attempt at wet blending it’s very early /wip/. The blue is also Vallejo Game colour and it’s fantastic to use. Mind boggling how they fucked the metals so badly.

>>93216577
Vallejo Metal Color is what you're looking for. Game and Model are diarrhea.

>>93216596
I get paid in 2 weeks and I’ll go get some new metals. Until then I’m probably going to have to use retributor armour to try and fix these possessed.

>>93216596
>>93216577
I tested recently some of Vallejo new GC metallics and indeed gold is behaving oddly. Silver, however, is totally fine.

Metal Colour still remains the best but I have problem with their gold as it's more silverly. I heard about people mixing GSW pigments with it but I don't really want to do the mixing each time I want to paint some gold as pigments tend to blow up and stay in air each time I open bottle. Meanwhile trying to mix and put it in dropper bottle always ends up with it drying up.

>>93216612
I also got the copper colour and dark gunmetal.

Copper behaves just like the gold which leads me to believe the problem is possibly due to the medium and retardant combination.

Dark gunmetal is slightly better but is extremely dark so hard to see its coverage on black primer. It also have a blueish tint confirmed when left to separate a blueish colour appears.

Gold is total shit that is direct from the bottle with no thinning at all. I’ve shaken it a bunch and no improvement at all. I think they just have a really shitty paint.

Honestly I have given up on finding a good gold paint and I just glaze over silver with some rich yellow/brown transparent paint/ink to achieve a gold I like.

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>>93216577
>game color metallics are shit

I know exactly what you mean. it's very watery and thin and covers poorly. I felt exactly the same when I got it.

but if you wait for it to dry and apply like 4 layers it looks amazing. i got brassy brass and it looks like a bright orange gold leaf when I peel it off my rubber palette. I really like how it looks with some agrax earthshade. The paint naturally has a brilliant shine.

pic rel. the shield and the nurgle symbol and back part of the "banner" were done with game color brassy brass and some agrax. I haven't tried any of the other game color metallics but I'd be tempted to get a chainmail silver if I didn't already have 4 fat bottles of Metal color.

be patient, give it a chance and see how you like it.

>>93216642
One solution I’ve seen is to use yellow contrast over the mode air aluminium. I might give TTC gold a go as well I’ve heard good results.

>>93216612
prepare a pot with the pigment already mixed and use that, no need to mix it little by little each time

>>93216772
I just said that when I prepared pigment mixed with gold paint before, it dried up completely despite being in closed dropper bottle.

>>93215819
Stronger highlights.

>>93214906
You just put it on at a different angle
It's only tilted in the photos because he has his shoulder raised and so his back (and therefore backpack) would be at an angle
I don't always like the look of that so i just put it on at a straighter angle

What are some brands of varnish that are good to run through an airbrush? Looking for something matte (or at least satin), something hardy that can protect game pieces, and something easy to use that doesn't need extra thinning or fuss.

So I've always thought you're supposed to load your brushes to roughly the middle point so paint doesn't get in the ferrule, but I was watching a video from this guy
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A-rbbtR7U_E
And he says you should load them up all the way through so paint stays wet and flows well. Which one is it? Have I been living a lie?

>>93217194
Depends on how often you rinse your brush in between loading it. In my experience metallics and contrasts will fuck your brush a lot sooner than regular acrylics.

>>93217194
I'm not gonna bother watching the video but I assume this guy has a lot of experience so he probably knows how to take care of his brushes. The safer way as in it will be more difficult to damage your brushes is to load them halfway like you've been doing. If you're using a bigger brush for detail work like you should be doing(a 2 or 3) the paint should last you a decent while anyway. It's also important to rinse your brushes fairly regularly so you won't get dried paint on the bristles and clean them after every session in case you missed anything

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Trying to find a goblin skin recipe, how does Zarbag look in this (center goblin)? Looking a bit pale ot me but every change I make makes it worse.

>>93217324
What's wrong with pale? It has nice contrast in both value and hue.

Hi all,

About to start a couple different historical tanks for a friend (multi era). Normally I'd just grab some Vallejo as old reliable, but I've heard a lot of good things about AK that's piqued my interest. Now I'm also hearing Vallejo screwed up whatever they did with the new VMC.

I guess I'm just asking if I should go with AK over Vallejo. I can get both pretty easily so availability isn't an issue

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Trying mixing paint into primer for a lazy colored basecoat, but goddamn do I need to learn how to not clog an airbrush

>>93217324
try a very subtle dark blue wash

>>93217612
get vallejo METAL COLOR metallics, for the rest of non-metallics... some say they get bubbles with the new vallejo line but it never happened with the couple i have however if you want to be on the safe side go ak, they are good paints too

>>93217687
If you mix them aggressively on a hard palette they definitely get some bubbles, and a little bit if you slop on the model too hard. Since switching to a wet palette I haven't had any issues with them. t. noob

>>93217697
I've found metallics get shitty on a wet palette. I just mix em in milk bottle caps

>>93217710
for metal color metallics I use as is on a dry palette, for the toothpaste vmc(old) and vcg(old) metallics I use a dry palette and mix in a bit of water

>>93217612
AK are very solid paints, I haven't ran into a single dud even among the brighter colors so they're a pretty safe bet for both brush and airbrush. The new Vallejo formulation has a somewhat different consistency than others which I don't personally like, dries REALLY matte and you have to be careful not to slap them on too roughly or you can get the bubbling issue. The colors themselves are really nice though with the game color series being nicely saturated so it's your call.

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>>93216612
I love Metal Colour Gold. I happen to be working on something using it at the moment so here's a pic of Metal Colour Gold with just one coat of AP Soft Tone over it. It's a beautiful colour. I've always been a fan of more yellow type golds than orange type golds.

>>93216670
Liquitex metallics are the same way. Low coverage but really shiny if you build it up.
What I really dislike are paints where they use larger flakes for better coverage. Airbrushes like shit and sparklier than a hooker's ass. Some well-regarded brands do it.

>>93218420
Looks nice, did you undercoat with brown?

>>93218533
Primed gloss black.

>>93217653
The reason nobody makes colored airbrush primer is it's so easy to basecoat afterwards and you get free shading if you zenithal. You're spending extra effort to compromise the adhesion of your primer, which already wasn't great since it's airbrush primer.
The only way I've sprayed primer without clogs is Vallejo airbrush thinner or a Createx reducer.

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some oily vetguard

>>93217180
AK is the best ive used. gloss satin and ultra matte require very little thinning and can he used by brush as well in a pinch.

>>93218564
>The reason nobody makes colored airbrush primer

Vallejo sells dozens of colors as primer.

>>93218564
proacryl has primer that is color matched to the paint in their line. nice if you're painting a lot of black so you can make touch ups easy.

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>>93218613
>>93218632
Kids these days having their primer in any color they want.

>weekend is over
>thread is instantly more civil
big think
>>93218601
What approx. ratio do you use? I've been thinning them 1:1 and doing a couple thin layers. Can attest to their quality though, the finish is great and I've used enamels over them with no problmes at all. I've used gloss, satin and matte, didn't feel like buying ultra matte was necessary because the matte one is, well, matte enough

>>93218564
oh so I'm just retarded then
balls

>>93218680
>thread is instantly more civil
What? You say this in the middle of yet another bitch-fight about primer?

>>93218706
The other anons proved me wrong about the color primer, and it is natural to want to emulate spraycan color primer, mixing in normal paint just isn't the way.
Airbrushing primer is the final boss of airbrush clog prevention, stuff I got away with when spraying paint didn't help with primer.

>>93218739
>there isn't color airbrush primer
>yes, there is, look
>oh ok my mistake
Perfectly civil, and the schizo's absence is tangible. My report worked.

>>93218752
Don't worry, these discussions always devolve.

>>93218739
compare this thread to the previous one, it's not even close

>>93218741
Yeah, I'm just kicking myself because I really don't want to strip and rebase the little bastards again

>>93218752
>>93218884
since you're the resident primer pro, would just a few drops of paint in a whole cup really affect it that much? I was planning on giving these a few coats of varnish at the end to keep it from chipping too easily.

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>>93218420
This looks really solid.

I got the gold colour on my Dante by running the original formulation of Darkoath Flesh Contrast Paint (honestly, I don't know that it has changed) over Retributor Armour, as I felt even Reikland Fleshshade was not strong enough for what I wanted. Since I intend to use my Dante in games, I sprayed some Mr. Hobby sealer over it at the end to keep the gold from rubbing off, and it dulled the metallic shine a bit.

After that, I went back with Vallejo Model Color Gold and added back a few highlights, but I'm thinking if I'd had >>93218420, I'd be even happier with the result! I will have to track some down... also might look into >>93216674's suggestion with Saint Duncan's paints. I was really happy with the TTC reds OKC-anon got me for Christmas.

>>93218680
3 drops in the cup first, then I thin them about 2:1 varnish to thinner mix. thinner mix is 80:20 thinner to flow improver.

>>93218996
Thanks, I'll probably try that today. You do multiple coats or just one with that mix?

>>93218952
>since you're the resident primer pro
lol
>would just a few drops of paint in a whole cup really affect it that much?
It depends on the paint. Craft paint might make its adhesion improve, desu.
>few coats of varnish at the end
Always a good idea but with really poor adhesion (I've had it happen when I overthinned primer with water) it can come off while you're painting, or get pulled up by a wash.

>>93218988
I never understood this about Dante. He's supposed to wear Sang's death mask. Why isn't his head fucking huge? Sanginuis is supposed to be like x2 the size of a space marine, the face itself should be up to the top of the halo

>>93219206
I'll give em a hard scrub with a thumb and if it doesn't peel off I'll just roll with it. It's Vallejo paint in Vallejo primer, so I would assume their acrylics are pretty similar

>>93219256
Giant primarchs are dumb, news at 11

>>93219256
He had it melted down and cast into his helmet.
Yes i made this up but i dont care

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>>93218988
>>93219268
>>93219304
I think it looks cool

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>>93219256
Maybe... Sanguinius as drawn by Tetsuo Hara, with an enormously-muscled body but normal head?

>>93219304
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r7l0Rq9E8MY

>>93219145
always multiple thin coats. the ultra matte can look dry pretty quick but will still frost if i dont give it a little time to dry thoroughly.

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>>93219346
lul

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Finished shaman vice base plant life, what do you guys think

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>>93219633
hell yes total pigger domination

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Gonna call the Chapel Barracks done. On to the Stronghold.

>>93219889
Holy fuck this is so cool. Painted decently too. Nice one, anon

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>>93219895
Happy you like it, been in a terrain mood lately

>>93219971
Yeah I remember you posting before here and in the godforsaken hellhole that is 40kg. Are those barracks like a printed model from dawn of war or something? Or did you sculpt them yourself

>>93219999
These are all prints. The DoW stuff was made by Eons of Battle I think and the bunker/tower in the second pic is by Doctor Sporck.

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>>93219842
Yyeeeaaaaahhh boooiii

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>>93219842
Fantastic!

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>>93220170
so we agree striped pants and purple cloaks are the final word in porc fashion lmao. I think I went overboard making mine all different colors; yours all go together nicely

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>>93219889
>>93219971
Damn, these are awesome, anon. Wish I could play your table.

>>93219889
Dang those are crisp and fun. GJ would slay aliens at

>>93220313
Thank you! I keep trying for different cloak colors and keep finding myself back at purple. There's just something about piggers and purple.
Wait till you see all of them lined up before going about matching colors lol

>>93217324
Looks fine to me. Night goblins being paler works.

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>>93220394
>>93220356
Thanks! I'm a bit jealous about all those nice old sculpts, fellow BA enjoyer.

What's a good pointy brush size for painting eyes?
000?
Script Liner brushes?

>>93220696
Anything with a small, sharp tip. I use a 00 or a 0 because I have them but you can easily do it with a 2 or 3 as long as it holds a good point

>>93220696
A fine point isn't about a tiny brush. Use a liner brush. You won't get a good point on a 000 round.
Conversely, any good sable brush under size 4 can do it.

>>93220696
Any good natural brush will have a tip sharp enough, I use a 3 for everything.

>>93220696
It's really not about the size, it's about the tip. A size 1 or 2 are more than enough as long as the tip is good. Sizes like 000 hold almost no paint whatsoever.

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Just finished this nurgly chariot, pretty happy with it and the whole process was surprisingly fun, especially scratch building the actual chariot.
Not sure if I should add some slime dripping out of the cracks in the wood.

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Word Bearer test mini is mostly dry, gamblin naphthol red dries a little bit satin so there is some reflection from my light. I painted this guy to about 70% done so final details like the weapons/eye lenses/blacks aren't done, mainly wanted to practice some blends on the armor and the silver metallic oil as it's been a while since I've painted. Purple shadows came out pretty well, a lot more subtle after drying. Over all I like the armor but it definitely would need to be tweaked if I was going to paint more of them. I added a little bit of yellow to get a highlight color for the armor, I think the slight orange looks good on the brightest points but I'm not sure it goes well with the dark purple shadows (warm highlights vs cold shadows). The slight orange would look great for something like blood angels though, something to keep in mind. Silver oil paint though is very nice, a little bit mixed with ivory black gave me a dark steel with a slight blue tint, highlighted with a little bit of straight silver blended in. Definitely need to play around with it more, but I'm definitely a lot happier with these experiments than my previous ones lol.

>>93221006
That's a cool looking ride, man! I really like the "horse" cool eyeballs. Instead of slime for the wood which isn't a bad idea, I would do mold instead maybe some mushrooms

>>93221176
Good lens work and looks pretty good. Some of the cabling lines are a bit thick, but it may not be noticable at table distance

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>>93215449
anybody have advice on how to make my basing look like melting snow gathered in between cobblestone walks? I've just been using AKI snow sprinkles lightly applied in the gaps on my basing pavers but I've had a lot of people tell me that it looks like shit lmao

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It's nice outside and my paints are finally here, so now I've got a good sixteen or so primed mechs drying before I get to experimenting - I've got it in my head that I want to try painting them up with an Alpha Legion speedpaint set I saw. It's been a while since I've painted, but here's to hoping it goes well.

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>>93221623
>it looks like shit
C'mon, anon. It can't possibly be *that* bad!

Should i buy Vallejo mode color, game color old bottle or game color new bottle?

>>93223172
citadel

>>93223225
I'm serious man. I'm upgrading from no-name cheap paint to Vallejo since i've never try Vallejo before. Citadel is stupidly expensive here so that's a no no

>>93223172
game color old or new, whichever's cheaper
youtube influencers claim that game color new is flawed. don't believe them

>>93223325
Is there any big difference between them?

>>93223361
nah

>>93223172
If you use a lot of earth tones or military colors you might prefer model color.
>>93223472
That's just not true. At the same time, if new game color is good enough for Angel Giraldez, it's good enough for any of us.
>reee he works for Vallejo
Just look at his videos, the proof is in the pudding.

>>93223488
>That's just not true.
So then what are the big differences between the old and the new game color?

>>93223507
Per the site:
>The new Game Color formulation greatly improves the colors application. The paint spreads very smoothly, is more fluid, opaque and contains a high pigment saturation, chosen for their brightness, maximum stability and resistance to light.
So let me guess, Vallejo, youtube reviewers, and anons ITT are all gaslighting us, and only brave anon here knows the truth that both paint lines are identical?
I'm getting baited by the schizo again, aren't I?

>>93221623
Less is more. Paint your flagstones with a few variations and be minimal with the snow deposits, use a toothpick to place it. Ultimately a base like that might not transpose to miniature scale very well, you might have to find some tricks to sell it.

>>93223552
Well, the new bottle is $1.79, old bottle is $1.51 and model color is $1.51 too. The Air game color is the same just more thinner, right?

>>93221010
Would be nice to varmish it matte to better see the colours transitions

I ran out of my 2 large cans of generic automotive spray primer and I don't know what to replace it with. I want to try the black mr. surfacer meme but it's out of stock everywhere I can reasonably order from online right now. Tamiya rattle cans are nice, but comically overpriced, and I prefer a black primer - but I'm willing to airbrush an acrylic primer over it once the mini is primed properly.
It might be back to the automotive primer I was using before.

>spray lacquer
>never got dry tip for like hours
>spray acrylic
>dry tip in 2 minutes
Suck fucking shit

>>93224093
Skill issue.

>>93224093
We all know this. Some people just pretend that lacquer and acrylic are the same and that you just have to learn how to spray acrylics. And when you bring it up they're like
>even IF lacquer is easier to spray and more durable
As though it's up for debate.

>>93224134
>dude instead of just thinning like a normal person now you need retarder and you need flow improver and you need some other white sticky shit

>>93224093
>spray lacquer
>never clean airbrush for months and still spraying smoothly just like brand new out of the box
>spray acrylic
>disassemble disassemble disassemble disassemble disassemble disassemble disassemble disassemble disassemble

I'm gonna buy Vallejo Succubus skin, Rosy flesh, Athena skin, Skin tone, Barbarian skin and Elf skintone. What do you think?

>in which a samefagging schizo describes letting acrylic paint dry in his airbrush and thinks it makes anyone else look dumb

>>93223488
>Giraldez
you mean the guy that has half of his videos covered by ads? Yeah I'm sure he's honest in his choices of hobby products
>>93224138
>>93224155
>>93224182
post one(1) miniature you sprayed with lacquers

>>93224238
Sound like the proper coomer choice, i like it

>>93224281
You could spray basecoat with lacquers

>>93224281
I prime all my miniatures with rattlecan lacquer, but I don't airbrush it. Stop calling me out like this.

>>93224238
That's a lot of paints in a pretty small window. Surely there's one or two that are redundant, especially if you mix colors.
Sunny Skintone is the one I'm always hearing good things about, it's good for NMM and highlighting warm colors and there's no GW equivalent.

>>93224093
never found a lacquer brand that has my niche basecoat color available so I'll still with acrylics :^)

>>93224281
I already said it, the proof is in the pudding. I don't care how hard he shills, you can watch him paint the minis and they look good. The paint works.

>>93224305
What color do you basecoat, and why?

>>93224297
i already have sunny skintone from another brand, but their other skintone look not so good so i would like to try some vallejo game color

>>93224310
dull oxide orange
I love muted dark orange for my armor

will having my paint rack in the sun fuck my paints up

>>93224337
Maybe. Nobody really knows how lightfast they are if they don't list the pigments, and if they get hot enough they can dry in the pot as all the water evaporates into the lid.
How much sun are we talking about?

>>93224367
only place with space left on my workdesk is right in line with my window and workshop's on the west side of my house
have decent canopy coverage but there's still plenty of sun coming through

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This set is on sale for $15 right now, should i get it?

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>>93224463
Metallic color set btw

>>93224463
>>93224470
There are better metallics available, but if it is cheap and you don't already have similar metallics then sure.

>>93224463
>>93224470
AP fanatic metallics are better
vallejo's own air metallics are better plus you don't need to thin them

>>93224463
vallejo metallics outside of metal color and some model air are garbage, so buy at your own risk
>>93224306
There are golden demon winners that painted with craft paints, should we all start using them as well? As long as someone is paid to endorse something you can't trust anything he says. I'm not even saying VGC are bad because I like them a lot but bringing that faggot shill as proof is just stupid

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Death Guard Contemptor

>>93224376
Jury rig a shade for the paints?

>>93224238
As the other anon said, those are great for painting coomer minis. rosy flesh/athena Skin and skin tone/elf skin tone are pretty close to one another though, you should get one of their brighter ones like elfic flesh or pale flesh for your brightest highlights. Unless you have somethng else already, obviously

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Still trying to work out some skin recipes before I go ahead batching the rest of these fucker. Thinking I might try for a palid green skin theme on the next couple of them. Thoughts?

>>93224819
Man people in this thread seem to REALLY like purple. I'm not big on it and neither am I on nurgle minis but I think these look cool. Desaturated/sickly green is definetely a good idea, though

>>93224898
Purple is objectively the best color.

NTA but luv me purple. Simple as.

>>93224998
>objectively
that's not turquoise, anon

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Purple AND turquoise

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>>93221974
I don't quite know what I'm doing but at least I'm happy with how my first couple speedpaint tests have gone so far. Related - is there a decent brand for just a flat white? It's been years since I've touched my army painter matt white, and it has this chunky and thick consistency that I'm not sure I quite like. Is this normal?

>>93224998
Weird way to spell 'red'

>>93225206
>>93225156
>>93224998
I swear to fucking god if this turns into a schizo argument about which color is the best I'm going to lose it

>>93225219
No argument needed, its red.

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>>93225161
turquoise and gold/yellow

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everyone missing yellow which is by far the best colour

>>93225284
You mean green right?
There's a reason we can see more shades of green than any other colour. It's just so awesome that we can't get enough of it.

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>>93225014
based and purple pilled

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>>93225546
a man of quality

>>93225206
Red? No subtlety, negative connotations with blood and violence. Clearly not the best color.

>>93225647
>literally the first colours humans can see
>associated with luck, life, strength, blood, fire, power
>the absolute first pigment discovered by humans
you are a pleb

>>93225692
Luck? What culture is this? Fire is orange and power is black.
Red is the color of periods, pimples, and communists.

>93225701
Fuck off retard.

>>93225647
>>93225692
>>93225701
>>93225705
and here we go

>>93225718
Yes, clearly a very serious argument.

so I'm going to light up some necrons with leds, old ones with green bars, sell me a good color scheme for them

I like the mostly steel ones but also like some flat colors here and there, more so on vehicles, I was also thinking of using one of those superblack meme paints for the gaps between panels

>>93225882
the [super]color paints require a unique finish for the full effect, so you can't varnish em or anything, just a heads up

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>>93225902
I'm aware, I would paint those parts after varnishing
since I want only the recesses it should not be a problem, but the paint still has to arrive and I have to do some tests first

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>>93225955
godspeed, oldcron bro. I thought about digging my old ones out and trying to redo em since i first painted the fuckers when i was a retarded 13 year old. Mine were bronze and blue, and the ceramic schemes in the old codex were pretty nifty, maybe check those out.

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>>93226003
>ceramic
thats what I can't decide, I like something like this too but not sure how good would it look on vehicles, also it needs to be a color that goes well with the green

>>93226107
Maybe metallic/pearlescent green with layers of rich, translucent blues towards the bottom, and ceramic grey, which would both go with the super black.
Paint the rods with some fluorescent yellow ink near the center to make em less flat? Be a real bitch to pull off though

Frens
Is there a paint shake tool that works for citadel and army painter paints? There are paint mix tools that use magnetic force but those are designed for tamiya paints

>>93226424
Definitely not a Vortex.
Have you heard that green is the best colour?

>>93225202
I like it, nice and simple and clean. White paints can be rough with a lot of brands being chalky. Reaper and proacryl make great whites, otherwise you can try thinning with a drop of glaze medium to smooth out an especially chunky one. I've also read of people thinning with white ink but I've never tried it.

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>>93218564
>The reason nobody makes colored airbrush primer
???

>>93226783
Do you really expect warhammertard to know any other paint than citadel

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Is washes supposed to look like this?

>>93226783
>>93226817
And before you say that it’s only Gaia, there is colored dspiae primer, mr hobby acrysion colored primer and mr hobby lacquer gx colors

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batch painting guardsmen
after these i have finally painted or repainted every ig model ive ever bought, it feels nice

>>93226843
I had to repaint my mordians after moving because a fair bit was chipped.
It's quite the task so you have my sympathy.

>>93226821
Please help, i've never use wash before

>>93226821
>>93226952
yes staining is completely normal and even more so when applied over pure white

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>>93226873
>I had to repaint my mordians after moving because a fair bit was chipped.
I used to drive a Honda Pilot. One day, when I was loading up to go to the Warhammer Store, I put my army's display board in the back of my Pilot, and stupidly left the back hatch open while on the incline that is my driveway. While I was back inside grabbing a few more things, the board slid out and spilled its contents on the driveway!

Luckily, I found every single bolt gun, combat knife, and backpack that broke loose following the tumble ... the only thing missing was Brother-Sergeant Vincent's head. I had plenty of repainting and chip-fixing to do, and had to make a new head for Vincent.

I'm more careful now.

>>93226170
I want to avoid painting anything green, I want the colored plastic to do the work there

About to make an order from GSW, any of their stuff you guys would recommend in particular?

>>93227334
Depends on what you're interested in
They have quite a lot of things related to sculpting: putties, clay, tools...
They recently released their inks and they seem to be pretty good
They have their own version of contrast paints
As for their paints themselves idk if they're any good, the extra opaque ones seem to work pretty well from what I've seen
They also have some interesting stuff such as chrome paint, the very black paint, some stuff to make spiderweb with your airbrush...
Also a lot of basing bits, texture rollers, tools
Idk anon they have a gorillion things, just get whatever you want/need, just make sure to watch a couple reviews so you know what you're getting

>>93227144
we used to have these big weekend games at my friends place and i would bring my own folding table on the roof rack of my car
i also had scenery for 3 tables so we could have some variety

one sunday evening after i had finished packing and was getting ready to leave guys had placed some 6 buildings on top of the table without me noticing, i started backing up and waved them goodbye because everyone was shouting something and flailing their hands
i eventually braked and they all went flying

>>93227374
I already have GS, some varnishes, pigments etc, I'm getting a new specific paint and a cutting mat but honestly I don't think I truly need anything else, just trying to figure out of they have some "must have" stuff that I might find myself needing later on

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>>93226821
Yea. Washes can move quite a bit before they dry, some brands more than others. The wash medium (which is what makes it different from just a regular watered down paint) gives it a weirdly high surface tension for how low its viscosity is. This force from the surface tension pulls the wash into recesses like in pic related. You can think of it like it's been stretched, and it wants to pull back into the smallest possible space.
You sometimes need to babysit washes a bit while they are drying. If you notice that wash has crept into an area where it's not wanted, or if there's just too much somewhere, you can dab it away with a slightly damp brush. The wash will wick right into the brush when you touch it.

>>93227506
Kind of related but I hate when there's a part of a model where two pieces are very close together but not touching and if you apply a wash it basically forms a bridge between those two pieces and you have to make sure you soak up any wash that gets there (and keep watching it because the shape of the model and/or gravity might keep drawing more wash you applied elsewhere into that gap) before it starts drying and ends up leaving an ugly, patchy film between the two pieces.

>>93227506
>weirdly high surface tension for how low its viscosity is.
Few realize this and I see a lot of bad advice for DIY washes.

>>93227532
draw a thin wet line along the edge of next part so it wont pool in the middle and might even look decent

>>93227241
Then I'd go with your black joints and grooves, a warm grey, and an orangey yellow. Yellow is analogous with that radioactive mt dew green, the grey keeps it from being too vomit inducing, and you get the black joints to break it up.
So for a warrior, grey ceramic limbs, yellow shoulder plates and gun body, black joints and gun frame. Maybe a white face for stuff like immortals to make em look special.

>>93227600
Oh and for vehicles, I'd say avoid the yellow and just go for greys and staining so they're more monolithic(haha) and not too action figurey

>>93227134
>>93227506
Oh so there is nothing wrong with my DIY washes, right?

>>93227639
No, they seem fine.

Some washes stain more, others less. Both things can be desired, so if you make your own, you should think about what you want to achieve. Having a gloss varnish first also helps the wash flow to the recesses.

>>93227639
Is that a reflection in the recesses or is the pigment getting pulled out of the deepest parts? If it's a reflection you're fine, I just can't tell.

>>93227757
Yeah, i think it's the pigment getting pulled out of the deepest parts, maybe because i put on too much water or something?

>>93227816
Yeah then your wash is fubar after all.
What I use is 3 drops water, 3 drops acrylic varnish (matte medium will do but then you need another drop of water), and a brush worth of the relevant paint.
As a rule of thumb, don't let water become more than 50% of the wash. The paint will still be far too opaque at that point which is what the varnish is for. If it's still too thick, add flow improver, very sparingly, instead of water.

>>93227888
>don't let water become more than 50% of the wash.
I phrased this awkwardly, if you add water to the paint before the varnish then the mix will briefly be >75% water which is fine, but you would still need to add varnish to increase the surface tension, like anon said, because it keeps the pigments from floating around if there isn't enough binder.

>>93227888
>>93227731
I used 1 drop of paint, 3 drops of water, 3 drops of medium and a little bit of dish soap, and tried it on some spare model parts but the washes doesn't flow much onto the panel line, so i add like 4 more drops of water, then it's finally flow nicely on to the line, but become too opaque lol. Thanks you

Painting/making some 20th century battlefield oriented terrain for Quar/40k/Trench Crusade. First thing is getting some hedgehogs painted.

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>>93227967
Forgot photo

>>93227950
Water shouldn't make it more opaque, that's weird.
Just keep experimenting, I went through a few recipes before I found one I liked.

>>93227976
looks good but that rust is way too uniform to my liking
dunno if you were planning of using them like caltrops so they can be placed any way up but they do need little grime on them

>>93228026
I was considering maybe some extra brown wash splotches or perhaps some orange drybrushing but my reference photos kinda look like brown blobs with some silvery bits. Its terrain and I have plenty so I may experiment with that after doing the edge highlighting. Planning on them being angle agnostic otherwise I'd have based them with some grime.

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>>93228123
NTA but I basecoat red brown an stipple on dark orange and brown. Rust develops very unevenly IRL.

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>>93228232
My reference photos don't show as exciting a variety of rust colors, but I'll give some orange highlighting a try just to give it more dynamic colors from afar.

>>93228123
>>93228357
sadly realistic is not very exciting or striking on the table
like other anon suggested stipple on some dark and light browns and orange followed with metal and you are golden

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I’ve repainted yellow to gold and it looks far better

>>93225161
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iR-K2rUP86M

>>93228560
Wrong thread my nigga. Elden Ring is peak though

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I heard wargames atlantic's plastic doesn't take to cement bonding as well
is there a better non-CA alternative?

>>93228483
honestly im not sure what am i looking at here

>>93228800
What. No, plastic glue works fine. Also, what's with these meme minis that keep popping up everywhere? Is Quar based on some 80s britbong children's show?

>>93228885
it's just because it's a charming and cheap wargame that's getting internet attention

>>93228885
GW hiked prices again and its a new plastic line that's affordable. At its core its a whimsical bolt action type of skirmish game.

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>>93228885
Also to answer your second question is a homebrew universe that goes back to the late 00s from a guy who bought a pewter casting machine to make zombie minis in the US. There's older metal models that definitely have some soul to them if people are in need of something different to paint.

Is it true that it's recommended to use gloss varnish for every coat except the final one to minimize the risk of frosting?
Also have I been memed and are AK 3rd gen metallics shit? I bought 2 of their silvers(Natural Steel and Aluminium) to check them out and both cover like absolute garbage, feel too thin even straight out of the bottle and have way less shine than others I've used so far. yes, I've shaken them

>>93229040
>Is it true that it's recommended to use gloss varnish for every coat except the final one to minimize the risk of frosting?
sounds like another /WIP/ chemistry project

>>93224463
No, get the Metal Color Vallejo line. Take Silver or Aluminum for light metal, Gunmetal for darker one. Gold and Bronze are also good colors.

>>93228800
As long as WGA doesnt use ABS plastic (like Rubicon for example), any plastic cement will work fine. If its ABS (its not), use ABS cement (tamiya sells it,blue bottle cap, instead of green).

>>93229040
vallejo air metallics are the best, you'll never need to thin them and they have great coverage aside from the golds and brasses which need a black undercoat

>>93228885
quar's getting popular because ecelebs are shilling it and you can get all the models you need for two people to play plus the rulebook for less than the price of a GW vehicle

>>93229103
yeah I know about VMA, I just wanted to try AKs
>>93229086
I've read this on a scale model forum but I've never ran into any issues with a couple layers of matt and finishing off with satin

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this year i have bought an airbrush and a 3D printer and i like them both very much

>>93229426
Public enemy number 1

>>93229440
>liking anything
>being on 4chan
lmao get a load of this guy

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Going to try and push myself with this model
KD make some great models and I always struggle to start them as i feel i wont do them justice

>>93229555
>I always struggle to start them as i feel i wont do them justice
I know this feel. But my count of unpainted KD minis keeps rising, and the count of painted ones never does... I just need to rip the bandaid off and go for it.

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>>93229555
Just go for it, anon. This was my first real time painting skin but thanks to some feedback from here I got it to a point I was decently happy with. You can always strip them later if you won't like the result or feel like you can redo them better

pro acryl has such nutty coverage
thinned their brown grey into a wash to soak into some texture paste and grit and even at that consistency the where the brush touched the base itself got covered so completely in one pass
I love this shit I just wish it liked to stick to tamiya primer better

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Trying out splotches with washes to add more variation to the browns on my hedgehogs (Also allows me to tone down any silvery bits that are too much). Up next is some orange drybrushing to add the contrasting color layer

>>93230020
looks pretty cool already, nice job

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>>93230020
Its subtle but I think I like the final result with some hints of orange
>>93230122
Thanks, just have to do that 20 more times.

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I go, I come back. Only clogged at the very end, so that's an improvement at least. Primer anon, they passed the thumb scrub test, so it looks like you can mix a few drops of paint into primer with no problems

>>93230020
>>93230152
very nice they look much better

>>93230175
Glad to hear, always enjoy seeing people test things. I always like to give my primer a good day to dry before I start painting, just to really let it set up before I go to town with a brush. Especially airbrushed layers that are thinner and more delicate.

>>93230394
Yeah, I'm probably gonna leave em for a few days just to be safe. And thanks for the suggestions on colored primers earlier, I didn't wanna buy a bunch for a one-off, but if I ever do heaps of dudes I'll definitely switch to those

Time to pack everything once again.
Its time for a last move into my -hopefully- final home.
Goodbye to hobbying for a couple months at least.

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Finally painted, applied the decals and varnished all the subassemblies. I also sprayed the fuselage with gloss varnish to prepare it for the enamel washes. It will still be a decent amount of work and I want to try some weathering but at least I can finally see the finish line after 2 fucking weeks

>>93230625
Is that you, red paint schizo? I remember you mentioning you're gonna be moving.

>>93230625
Good luck anon, hope everything goes smoothly.

>>93230661
Im kinda shocked you remember that lmao

>>93230680
yeah I have a good memory when it comes to useless information like that lol. Well, I hope everything goes well and you'll have some more time for hobbying after the move.

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>>93229700
Good god that skin looks nice, you did great.
I will take your advice and just go for it, thank you.
>>93230653
C R I S P and C L E A N

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Advice sought.

Which wash for a Sycorax Bronze Power Fist? (similar to what is pictured).

Battle Mud Wash
Flesh Wash
Oblivion Black Wash

I might want to highlight the fist afterwards. Dragon's Gold, Glistening Gold, or leave it alone?

>>93230700
lol those are both my posts, thanks anon. I'm actually gonna be painting another KDM mini after I finish the admech flyer. Gonna be aiming for display quality skin, we'll see how close I can get.
>>93230774
Depends on what you're going for. Brown wash will give it a dirty, weathered look. Flesh wash a more warm one and I honestly don't know how bronze would look washed with black
inb4 the ttc schizo gets triggered

>>93230774
Nice burgundy marine. Sort of purple adjacent.

>>93229700
May i ask your skin resippy?

>>93230878
I can't exactly remember to be honest with you, I painted her like half a year ago. I used Vallejo skin tones though, Succubus skin was for the shading, athena flesh for the basecoat and I think pale flesh or skin tone for highlights. I'm pretty sure I also glazed some purple into the recesses. An anon here helped me a lot by giving advice on finishing touches. Thanks again if you happen to still be around

>>93230849
isn't that more violet than purple though?

>>93230990
I'm just saying it's sort of in the same general family as purple.

>>93216792
>In closed
Just asking, did you write "enclosed" and the phone hit you with an auto correct?

>>93231051
More likely they mistyped and lost the a in "in a closed"
Are the phoneposters inside the house with you?

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Messing with spare Perry miniatures bits and remodelled some helmets to make...WW1 guys with armour, I guess?

>>93230020
>my weathering autism was finally helpful to somebody

My batch of sand from outside produces a texture paste effect instead of the known sand effect when painted/drybrushed.

Should I add hobby railroad ballast to the mix or just live with the way the sand from my area is?

What is the most idiot-proof matte varnish? My Liquitex varnish isn't glossy enough, and I have two bottles of Vallejo, the one cures glossy and tacky while the other is a lot better but still gets sort of an uneven finish (I stored and shook them both the same so the one that doesn't cure right is probably spoiled).
I've heard good things about AK's matte varnish. Also interested in AP and Reaper.

>>93231470
It sounds like your mixture is off. have you tried different ratios?

>>93231470
have you tried gravel instead of actual sand sand

>>93231470
I use actual beach sand but it's on the coarser side. It sounds like you have a lot of silt in yours.
I filtered my sand through a screen to separate it into two sizes, but if you had a really fine screen you could use it to separate out the finest sand and discard it.

Question for you guys. I'm going to magnetize some bases for a transport bag using magnetic sheets (GSW bag) but the magnets won't be flush (1mm). I'm thinking of making greenstuff dollops to press the magnets into the base and on the table to make em flush but I'm wondering if I should also put a drop of super glue on top of the gs dollops between it and the base.
Am I overthinking it or will it be fine, or will I create deadly greenstuff gas from the mixture, vaporizing the whole block?

>>93231539
I mean it is literally just sand near the water.
>>93231583
I might consider gravel being mixed in.
>>93231608
Sounds like silt is my problem. What type of screen did you use to filter the silt from sand?

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post first minis

>>93231815
>I mean it is literally just sand near the water.
I meant to type near the river. I must have been thinking about how rivers have water.

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>>93231802
>I should also put a drop of super glue on top of the gs dollops between it and the base
yes
by itself the gs won't bond that much, make the shape and then remove the magnet and glue it
also glue the gs itself to the base

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>>93231824
Fun times

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>>93231815
>Sounds like silt is my problem. What type of screen did you use to filter the silt from sand?
nta, use a kitchen sieve or pan the sand to remove the dust

>>93231815
>What type of screen did you use to filter the silt from sand?
I used spare porch screen but >>93231852 is probably better for silt, I was just separating grades of beach sand that didn't have silt.

>>93231832
Kk thx
I appreciate it a lot actually

>>93231852
>>93231880
I think my sand is too fine of a grain for a mesh screen to separate the sift from the rest but I'll give it a shot. Thanks anons!

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How hard would it be to sculpt something like this (pic related, on the right) on top of the Perry Miniatures horses (pic related, on the left) without any kind of greenstuff experience at all? I haven't found a tutorial for something like that on YT. I'll keep looking, but I'm scared to fuck up the mini if I'm doing badly, since I've never done any conversions except simple stuff like weapon/head swapping.

Any of you have experience with using an airbrush outside?
My landlord said I can use it on the balcony, just not inside, so the downstairs neighbor won't complain about my compressor.

>>93232079
i have my compressor on a foam mat on a stand on another foam mat so there's no vibrating, and i don't run it past 7pm, so the lady downstairs can't say shit. just get a good fume hood and change your filters. otherwise if you're using it outside you'd have to deal with wind, so again, fume hood

>>93226424
Look up Nail Polish shakers. Very straight forward and usually has flexible straps so differing pot sizes isn't an issue. You still want some agitators in the pots, but when combined with using these shakers it should solve most of your problems. AP specifically though you might need to swizzle with something prior though if it has been sitting idle too long. If you have something like a local Walmart/Kmart go check their beauty section and they should probably have shakers. They should be relatively inexpensive too.

>>93232196
Oh. Foam.
Why didn't I think of that?
Goddammit.
That's a good idea, thanks.

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WIP oil rig themed plague walkers, one on right is complete

>>93228811
Sorry, I had issues with painting yellow last thread on those iron golems. I’ll try to make a better photo soo

>>93232276
Based and Mezgike pilled.

>>93232002
I think if you mixed in milliput with it to make it foldable sheets it wouldn't be too hard

>>93232002
I would also do it as a second thin strip for the collar after the first bit set

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OD'd on mezgike pills

>>93232333
If you want to put down yellow, orange, or red and are having trouble with it, then put down a brown first. It should reach opacity quicker, and worst case scenario you can do a layer of 50/50 first to make reaching full opacity with the final colour easier.

>>93232276
Pretty neat! I like your color scheme for the coral, good choices. I'm wondering if doing a gloss or satin varnish would give that water treated finish to the gear

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>>93232336
>>93232345
I was thinking the hardest part would be trying to make it seem like the saddle is on top of it, so I'd have to create it in at least three parts. One for the back side, one for the front side, and one for the middle... or maybe two with a round cut at the top so it goes around the saddle. And then I guess the neck guard should be a different part, as you say. I'm just scared I'm going to fuck it up. Also, I'll have to do something about the reins as well, unless I simply ignore the entire neck, which could very well be a possibility if I'm finding it too hard.

Do you think milliput/regular putty would work better than greenstuff for something more rigid like that? Here's another example of what I want to create. As it's supposed to be lamellar armor, it should be somewhat rigid, more bulky than just a Crusader horse's caparison.

>>93232357
Dios mio. Yeah, I know that feeling too. I just had a bunch of dredge marines, and they took forever to paint. His sculpts are incredible for how they fit the plague marine style while being original and detailed... and the original plague marines already had tons of time consuming details.
You went with the anglerfish guy too. Good shit, that's what convinced me to pull the trigger on them.

>>93232382
I think that something needs to happen with the metallic in general on these models. I think that maybe some satin and verdigris would look pretty cool.

When I initially painted them, the objective was to do a good table standard kill team, but the project is spiraling into a full army and the painting standard is bumping up as I go, so I appreciate the suggestion.

>>93232501
>the painting standard is bumping up as I go
If that's the case then you need a better photo.

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>>93232491
More random WIP stuff with the anglerfish guy. As mentioned earlier, I need to step up the paint some, Def need to work out the speckled white ink in the zenithal and probably ditch the speed paint all together.

Anyone have good suggestions on verdigris? I may just start over with fresh prints and go full copper diving suit.

>>93232501
Brown is a very helpful colour to use as a base coat for near everything. It helps red hues reach opacity quicker due to having red in it, but also it just looks like dirt or general discolouration so even if other hues don't reach opacity over it it tends to be free shadows or weathering without looking as harsh as a straight black base coat.

>>93232574
>Anyone have good suggestions on verdigris? I may just start over with fresh prints and go full copper diving suit.
That's what I did and why it took forever.
The problem is that the most realistic verdigris is white mixed with bluegreen, but it doesn't look good over bright metal and it doesn't look good in the recesses despite that being realistic.
Here's what I ended up doing:
>base copper
>glaze brown for tarnish
>sponge on verdigris spots at random
>recess wash dark green to restore the shading
>highlight gold to simulate wear
It looks great but it takes a while. I also painted the trim gold instead of copper since diving suit trim is actually brass.
I wouldn't recommend doing what I did if you have a large amount to do, if I had to do it again I would just paint copper with gold trim, wash it in dark turquoise as a battle ready scheme, and only give HQs the fancy treatment.

>>93232481
So a milliput/greenstuff mix of about 50/50 I think is what you use for this kind of stuff, as it makes into sheets after a rolling pin is used. There are some videos of that, but the overall process is pretty easy in multiple parts. As for the reins, I bet a bit of bendy wire would work really well, and give a chance for more putty sheets for extra doodads on it. The saddle is easy enough, another sheet for the blanket, and then use bendy wire or paper clip to make a frame for the cantle and pommel

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>>93232574
The verdigris I did for this was nitrous oxide, and then picking out spots with ghostly green. You could then add some white to the mix and then ultra highlight it for crystally bits

>>93232613
Thanks! I'm going to try out a grittier diving suit look based on that outline on my not-deathshrouds. My favorite part about having a 3dp army is that I don't mind experimenting and failing fast. At worst I'm out a buck or two of resin and some hobby time

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>>93232686
GLHF!

Where can I order mr. hobby stuff from? My flgs don't have the black surfacer 1500 and thinners in stock.

>>93232593
Burnt umber and vandyke brown are bae.

>>93232814
There are usually resellers on ebay.

>>93232814
Ebay, Amazon, Aliexpress or some Gunpla store?

>>93232972
What's a good paint to use for burnt umber?

>>93233130
NTA but any artists' fluid acrylic. Just make sure the pigment is PBr7, some student acrylics use a blend.

>>93233048
So you're telling me the reason I can't find any is because people scalp fucking paints on ebay?

>>93233216
Well, the future is uncertain after all. I have seen a lot of people scalping Gaia notes paint too, never use them but from what i've heard they are one of the best

>>93233216
No, certain brands are niche or intended for a different kind of hobby. So no all physical stores are going to carry them or keep them in stock regularly. But online marketplaces don't have that consideration so if you know what you are looking for you will generally find it. Hence why you can find niche hobby stuff on ebay because that is one of the easiest ways for importers to sell it. You are only going to see real scalping if something is limited or exclusive so it can be purchased and resold at an inflated price.

>>93233321
Why can't I just go to a mrhobby dot com and buy a fucking product in 2024?

Is it better to topcoat with a flat brush than a round one?

>>93233343
Sometimes. Also consider a filbert.

>>93233356
Why a filbert though? I thought the flat head will be better than filbert round head for evenly base coating?
>>93233343
*topcoat
Sorry i mean, basecoat

>>93233339
A lot of the time you can go direct to the supplier, or they at least have a reseller local to them. The problem is that 'local' can mean in a different country which then involves shipping and taxes that make direct purchase prohibitively expensive. It is why a lot of the niche brands usually either have an official reseller for a country, or if there is clear demand relevant hobby businesses import to resell. It really isn't hard to find a local reseller nowadays.

>>93233395
The local sellers are always out of stock, presumably because fucks buy it all and sell it on ebay for twice as much. Unfortunately I refuse to spend 40 dollars on a can of tamiya primer from an unofficial third party seller.

>>93232002
Just saying.. pretty hard to make it look good. I'd say fuck around with it before you put it on a mini, to get a feel for it.

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>>93233363
>Why a filbert though?
It's flat enough to not leave streaks while also not having sharp corners. They're not really round either, they're kind of flat on the center.

>>93233408
It is niche hobby stuff. It isn't always in the interests of the sellers to constantly restock, or they run on set restocking times based on bulk orders. That is just the nature of the beast when it comes to this stuff that needs to be imported. You really shouldn't stress over primer though, there are plenty of options and alternatives available for it.

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>>93231824
We have to go back.

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Need help here. Trying to attach the bottom arms and the joints don't fit. If you dry fit it looks like it does but actually the two pieces of plastic don't come into contact. It's insane because it's a fucking ball joint and it should be fool-proof but it happens no matter the angle.

>>93233926
Greenstuff. At the end of the day it is still an epoxy. Put enough on the ball joint so that it is able to contact both sides of the joint. If you are really pressed for time then a little superglue on each surface before smooshing the GS and joint in there should hold it enough for rest to cure. Otherwise pin it.

>>93234022
ty, will try. Does greenstuff act a bit like a glue?

The yellow part of greenstuff makes it an unusable product.

>>93234043
In a sense. It is an epoxy, which is basically just a substance that is pliable for a time before hardening. But it should generally adhere to surfaces well enough to bond them provided it was properly mixed and given enough time to cure.

>>93234084
>The yellow part of greenstuff makes it an unusable product.
Quantify your schizo ramblings please