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Work in Progress, Mid-week Edition

>Full-on /WIP/ OP Links Pastebin:
https://pastebin.com/BE42AEcD

>WIP Tutorial Images Mega
https://mega.nz/#F!TvQFCaLb!w8WZKCcOsTRasxrI0JWezw

>Saint Duncan's "Six Things I Wish I Knew When I Started Painting"
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ufP8ka3KGno

>Saint Duncan also explains thinning your paints
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wxWgsqSf74s

>Paint thinning 102
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sBDVPoNXyVI

>Darren Latham's 20 top tips for miniature painting success
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ERXNObqeNb8

>4 EASY Chipping Tricks For Beginners
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ku4comhKHJM

>Decal Like a Pro
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SYKLiEW7p9c

>How to Edge Highlight
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KoRbYuAfbEk

>How to use contrast style paints
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IhholrozptI

>How to Paint with Tremors
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oqp76vAJu9g

>Who's Johnny, she'd say, and smile in her special way
https://1d6chan.miraheze.org/wiki/Johnny

Previous threads
>>93913731
>>93893590
>>93865105
>>93843257
>>
inb4 a dildo
>>
Are glaze paints a scam?
>>
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im painting a custom tomb king on a khemrified terrorgheist dragon thing
>>
>>93929846
i'd skip the glow
>>
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>>93929846
he finally got that "golden body" the mortuary cults promised amirite?
>>
>>93929846
Could just be the angle but the nose glow looks wrong
>>
>>93929860
you mean the eye glow?

I like it too much, sorry if its not up your alley (i mean not in the "im sorry i did something you dont like" sense, but "im sorry you don't appreciate it, i think its awesome")
>>
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>>93929846
this is how he is on the howdah, still need to paint his sandcloak
>>
Now i've seen it from multiple angles I stand by my comment about the nose glow. It looks like he's got a comical green nose stuck on.
The eye and ambient glow looks fine but I think the nose needs tweaking a bit
>>
>>93929886
I know it's a real work but howdah always makes me think of JFK
>>
>>93929846
Anon quick! Catch em before he falls!
>>
>>93929817
Yes and no.
You can glaze with normal paints and it's passable. You can even glaze with white if you really know what you're doing.
BUT, normal miniature paints are fairly opaque pigments, while glaze paints (as well as washes and contrast paints) use translucent pigments. And glaze paints are formulated to not flow into the recesses as much as the others. Translucent pigments filter the colors under them instead of covering them like opaque pigments do.
Contrary to some smoothbrains, an opaque pigment does not suddenly become a translucent pigment when you dilute it.
>>
>>93929846
Very nice. A good reminder that pure layering is very clean and effective, IF one can brush control like a wizard.
>>
>>93929846
This is dead sexy!

The thumbnail made me think you were showing us a chameleon on a branch to use as inspiration.
>>
>>93929875
>you mean the eye glow?
yes
>I like it too much
fair enough
>>
>>93930008
>anon is a scaly
>>
Is there anything like this where I can just DIPP in the glued base and get a decent base that I can get in Europe? I don't like to go around a pick random stuff from the streets
>>
>>93930041
Go to a park or actual nature.
>>
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My first ever attempt at nonmetallic metal. My layers got a lil lumpy because I had to do quite a few to get the blending right. Hopefully the other side of the axe goes better
>>
>>93930112
For a first time that ain't too shabby at all anon!
>>
>>93930041
yeah. A ton of railway modelling companies sell stuff like this (my pic is from busch) and recently a new company called Krautcover (cause it's German) started selling ground cover and other scenery materials like this.

Truth is if you get a bag of bird or terrarium sand, some deco sand, ballast for railroads, flock and possibly some pigments you can make something similar for a fragment of the cost and you'll get ten times as much. Question is if you need that much and if you have the space for storage.

Personally I think it doesn't look as good as painting stuff, but I can see why people might like it.
>>
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>>93930112
Looks pretty gud, anon.

Reposting so people can complain about the saturation more
>>
>>93930241
I'm a fan
>>
>>93930241
I will respect your commitment to your vision, but I will also respectfully tell you that I think your Hive Tyrant just looks bad.
You are skilled, but even so I don’t think the carapace is the only problem it has.
>>
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Any suggestions how I could steal the look of the hooded guys in the back/the spikes on the front?
>>
>>93930241
The face and horn are still great but at this point I’m not that big a fan of the rest.
If you love how it looks however, I think that’s the most important thing. I’m just always happy to see another Hive Tyrant around.
>>
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>>
>>93930112
Real nice anon

>>93930241
Like another anon said in the prev thread, the wings don't stand out as much as the body. Also the base is too bright. Otherwise, I think it's got potential.
>>
>>93930332
Started working on my Dorn. Need to build a big dozer blade out of 2 Leman Russ dozer blades
>>
>>93930241
I don't think the wings really match the carapace in terms of color scheme and brightness. I do kind of like the carapace in terms of painting, I can see how 40k peeps may think it doesn't match. I would add some yellow dots to the turquoise tho to give it some spottiness
>>
>>93930260
<3

>>93930321
>>93930333 (checked)
I do agree that the skin is too dull right now in comparison. I'm not sure what I'm going to do to bring it up, but I'll figure something out. I wasn't done with the skin anyway.
>>
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Did a test paint of a model before I start on to rest of the AM-CP. Recommendations on what I could work on or alter before starting the rest of the kit would be appreciated : )
>>
>>93930393
I think adding dots would just make it worse. The problem to me isn’t the coloration, again I think the head looks great. It’s the rest of the yellow is laid on too thick and went too far in for a highlight, and the carapace looks very flat and clashes with the skin in a way that makes them look like they’re two different styles.
>>
>>93930616
Oddly enough I think that's why the small dotting near the edges would work, to help breakup the highlight, to make it seems more like a natural shell progression
>>
>>93930241
You're well saturated in the links and greens department, and I personally like the pastel wings. I'd take some of those pink hints from the base and repeat a color somewhere on the hive tyrant itself especially some small details near the top of the model. Are there any claws around the wing tips you can echo that color scheme?
>>
>>93930753
Pinks*
>>
>>93930578
I'd give the fatigues a bit more shade.
Maybe do a 1:1 mix with your blue and black and then thin it out and with a small brush apply it to the folds and where the fabric meets other materials.
An oil wash wouldn't be a bad idea either.
>>
>>93930309
The spikes just look like random stuff, plasticard maybe. Night shift has a video on how to make rusted welds.
The hoods might be greenstuff, I dunno.
>>
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Making a chainglaive for a chosen. I kinda enjoy the 10th edition shrimplifications that you can just equip your guys with whatever is cool since the weapon profiles are all the same. This is my first time working with brass rods, is there anything I should know? Adhesion wise? Priming wise?
>>
>>93930898
rough up the surface with some fine grit sandpaper so the paint sticks
>>
Is a respirator enough to airbrush "safely" with acrylics, or do I also need a spray booth with a filter? I know acrylics aren't supposed to be toxic but I still don't want to inhale paint particles.
>>
>>93930972
anything that isn't air is bad for your lungs
>>
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Please look at my Blue Horror.

Thank you for looking at my Blue Horror.
>>
>>93929506
When layering with thin paints, is it normal to wick most of the paint off onto a paper towel? Or is there a better strategy? very hard to control paints otherwise
>>
>>93931060
I did look at your blue Blue Horror.
>>
>>93931060
I like your blue horror anon.
>>
Here to see more pics of the degenerate anon with dildos on his desk
>>
>>93931060
I have looked at your Blue Horror
>>
>>93930972
Get a real respirator for painting and you will be fine.
>>
>>93931074
Absolutely.
>>
>>93930818
I would do do oil shading but I really don’t like the glossy finish on the gloss fatigues. The 1-1 abbadon black - mccragge blue glaze in the folds is good advice, don’t know why I didn’t think of that. : ) thanks anon
>>
>>93931060
That is indeed a blue horror
>>
>>93931074
Unless you are using very small brushes that barely hold any paint it's kinda mandatory
>>
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>>93931618
>>93931298
>>93931092
>>93931078
Again, thank you for looking.

I have also finished K'Charik. Please ignore the fact that I did not green-stuff that gap in his arm. I also have not finished the other four memebers of the squad yet.
>>
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Finished blockhouse. I have no idea what color they were, only B&W photos and a description of how they were constructed. Wood frame, sheet metal skin, sand bags, wood roof, etc. I do know that the blockhouses used in the boer war were unpainted sheet metal so I've gone for a similar look. It occured to me that many of you guys might not know how small 10mm is, so I've included a few coins for scale reference.

I look forward to making some more small scale fortifications! This was quick, easy, and dirty and I'm pleased.
>>
>>93929846
IMO NMM isn’t worth doing unless you sink a lot of time into it. I’m sure you could do it no problem but it’s probably double what you’ve put in there to smooth out all the transitions.
>>
>>93931074
Yes it is. Better is to wick the paint on some humid paper towel so it doesn't absorb all the water
>>
>>93931678
Lovely, but do we know what those little bumps are supposed to be?
The contrast is great, I just don't know what they are
>>
>>93930972
You actually will just immediately die if you do this. tabletop gamers have been known to commit suicide using this method.
>>
>>93931795
Hrmmm... not bad. But, what do you think about making the sand bags a different color from the main building? Like, maybe the sand bags could be tan/khaki?
>>
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WIP update to this foul abominable demon. Not sure about her sneakers yet. Thinking red right now.
>>
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>>93930972
>>93931434
You need a spray booth because unless you want to wear a respirator for the next few hours after you paint, you’ll be breathing in the particulate in the room.
Even when I spray with my Amazon special 2 fan booth (vented outside) there are still particulates in the air.
I know this because I basecoat with laquer paints and I can still see/smell it after I’ve finished a session.
Also don’t cheap out - get a 3M respirator
>>
>>93933382
my ceiling fan blades always turn into the color i was spraying
pretty cool innit
>>
>>93933387
Zenithal your life? Yeah actually that’s pretty cool.
>>
>>93930241
The carapace just looked better without the yellow. Now it doesn't fit unless you go full clown mode on the (very nice) skin and wings.
>>
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Here's a manticore I'm calling finished.
>>
>>93932848
looks crosseyed
>>
>>93932848
Now thats a plague bearer i could fap to
>>
>>93933724
Looks really good, anon. The wings are nicely detailed, everything is clean and neat and the ochre tones you've used ade beautiful. Good job : )
>>
>>93931060
Your Blue Horror™ from Games Workshop™ looks pretty good. I sure hope i get the opportunity to play and inquire more about Warhammer: Age of Sigmar 3.0©®™ Table-Top game myself in the foreseeable future.
>>
Tips for a Tomb King color scheme? It's hard to beat the light blue + Red + sand colors
>>
How do I spray primer when it's forever 60-80% humidity 24/7/365 days a year?

I've got some speedpaints but they're basically made to go over Zenithal priming which requires spraying which requires low humidity which requires relocating across the country.
>>
>>93934093
I wanted anons opinions on the matter
>>
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>>93934077
did you check google?
>>
>>93934095
You could get a dehumidifier and a grow tent
>>
When you guy are converting/kitbashing how deep do you get invested into it beyond "put on new arms and heads and call it a day" do you give the model a name or make it part of your /myguys/ lore?
>>
>>93934045
>>
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>>93934333
I like doing some models straight out of the kit, others as more subtle kitbashes, and then also having one anxiety inducing nightmare project to slowly chip away at over time
>>
>>93932848
Where's this one from? Looks.... cute.
>>
>>93932848
>buys stl model
>doesn't fill in the gaps
i'm sorry but this is unacceptable
>>
What colour should I paint these Aztec-theme bases?
>>
>>93934747
I feel like any paintjob would ruin that nice invisible base look
>>
>>93934365
The greenstuff fur is so much better looking than the milliput one, is just the angle or milliput is much harder to sculpt?

Also that trunk on the bottom has a bird claw?
>>
>>93934747
i like the camouflage as it is, really sells that jungle theme
>>
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Finished another batch of Boyz. I definitely prefer the old ones despite the gorilla butts.
>>
How many capes do you think are to many capes for a single army?

I got DE right now, and /myguys/ do alot of space battles/ship boarding so I say they have a good business/working relationship with Corsairs. So I was gonna make a Corsair Archon and Corsair Succubus and I was thinking about making the kabalite and wych (doubling as commorite kill team) squads they attach too also corsairs and even at minimal manning that's 12 models with capes, and then if I want ACTUAL corsairs (maybe 2 squads AT MOST) that is anywhere between 22-32) cape wearing models and I don't know about you guys but I personally feel capes should stick to characters and important people. Maybe only give the Succubus and Archon extra designs on their capes and everyone else is the same showing they are the same rank?
>>
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Also tackled my pile of old skaven.
>>
>>93934862
>>93934875
>>93934747
aw fuck
>>
>>93934954
This looks impractical for gluing miniatures on.
>>
>>93932829
Yeah.. they are different colors but it did come out all kinda washed out huh? I'm also found some better photos of one of these block houses showing the main structure to be more wood than metal. I'll do some repainting tonight when I get home.
>>
>>93931060
i looked at it
he is very blue!
>>
>>93934747
>>93934954
hard to say without seeing your models
also whats the point of magnet holes, why not just have the whole thing hollow or is this some marketing gimmick
>>
>>93935528
magnets are plated so they don't glue very well, having a slot to jam them in helps the glue to keep them in place, also consistency
>>
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>>93932422
I think they're supposed to be still-developing feathers just starting to poke through the skin
>>
>>93936023
Nice, is that contrast?
>>
>>93934880
>>93934894
i like it, especially those white rags on that rat
good job
>>
What can I use for priming other than sprays? Its too cold and wet where I live. Are base paints with same name as sprays (wraithbone, grey seer, abbadon black etc) usable as primer?
>>
>>93936776
god no, spray primers chemically bonds the paint to the plastic, you won't get that effect from brush on shit
>>
>>93929506
sad to see the johny fountain isnt in the collage yet
>>
>>93936776
The base paints aren't the same thing, but you can use a brush to paint models with the primer paint for the same effect. Just get the sort of primer that you can open.
>>
>>93936790
Then am I fucked?
>>
>>93936857
yes
>>
>>93936052
thank you and yes it is contrast
im not proud of it but the dude im painting these for likes it and that is all that matters
>>
>>93936776
>Its too cold where I live
i tested this theory last winter when i had -38 celsius outside
my rattlecan was pretty cold too and it primed just fine outside
>>
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More progress. Now onto the shelf mushrooms
>>
>>93936790
>chemically bonds the paint to the plastic
How exactly do they do that? IPA only "lifts" the paint off plastic yet it strips spray "primers" just fine.
>>
>>93937126
it's because you're lifting a layer of plastic away with it
>>
>>93937126
Because he's talking out of his ass.
>>
>>93937137
IPA doesn't melt plastic, try again
>>
>>93937148
at this point I wouldn't be surprised if it was james that spread this bullshit story so people will keep buying their shitty rattlecans
>>
>>93937126
IPA isn't lifting cured lacquer paints. Lacquer painted plastic is essentially paint mixed with tamiya extra thin.
Go spray some spray primer or lacquer paint on styrofoam to understand.
>>
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>>93937176
I don't think that's true because the primer schizo usually says gw rattlecans are not actually primer despite evidence otherwise
>>
>>93937158
if you had actually stripped primer you'd know that spray primers fuck up the surface of the plastic
>>
>>93937225
>>93937201
>>93937196
I should've specified I was talking about acrylic rattle cans because I have no experience with lacquers, my bad.
>>93937201
GW can say whatever the fuck it wants, that doesn't make it true. On their actual website not a single spray is called a primer, btw.
>>
wtf is a lacquer primer and why on earth would anyone use such a thing
>>
>>93936829
>sad to see the johny fountain isnt in the collage yet
He will be in the next update - version 45 - for sure. I have the fountain and also some Johnny fan art I came across.

>>93937176
>shitty rattlecans
Citadel Wraithbone spray is fantastic, and I defy you to find a faster way of making Blood Angels Sanguinary Guard look good without their Retributor Armour spray. The problem isn't the quality, it's the price tag. If Rustoleum or Ace Hardware made something that looked like Retributor Armour but cost $4.00-$8.00, I'd be all over it.
>>
>>93937251
Duncan himself calls them primers in this video, linked to on the spray page of the webstore.
https://citadelcolour.com/videos/sprays/

They call it primer multiple times on warcom, which is also the "actual" website
> We used the Citadel Spray primer version of Macragge Blue for the Ultramarines, Grey Seer for the Apothecary Biologis, and Wraithbone for the Tyranids.
https://www.warhammer-community.com/2023/06/15/heres-how-to-batch-paint-all-72-miniatures-in-warhammer-40000-leviathan/
> a brand new bright white spray primer is coming!
https://www.warhammer-community.com/2022/06/17/10-dazzling-new-contrast-paints-and-how-to-use-them/

Feel free to refute these in some way and/or show me gw saying they are not primers.
>>
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>>93937267
he's confusing spray on primer (that has a bonding agent) with some other kind of hobby primer
>>
>>93937267
There's a different distinction when it comes to acrylic and lacquer primers vs their paints.
All primers are supposed to:
>Adhere to their designed surface
>have good opaque coverage
>have a surface finish that subsequent non-primer layers will adhere to.

Acrylic paint sometimes has 2, and has 3
Acrylic primer has 2, and 3
Lacquer paint has 1, 2, and sometimes 3
Lacquer primer has 1, 2, and 3
>>
>>93937310
Again, I dont' care what GW calls them. My initial question was how they supposedely "chemically bond" with plastic and nobody can answer that it seems so I'm still calling it bullshit
>>
>>93937353
and to clarify again I'm talking about GW sprays because that's what the initial question and answer were about
>>
>>93937267
I use Lacquer primer when I'm painting my gunpla with Mr Hobby (lacquer paints). Those babies stick like nothing else, you can even scratch them pretty hard.
>>
>>93937353
>it-its just NOT OKAY
lmao
>>
>>93937367
Yeah, yeah, keep deflecting. Can you explain how they chemically bond with plastic or not? I'm more than willing to change my mind if you give an explanation that makes actual sense
>>
>>93937409
Primers dont need to chemically bond with the plastic, hope that helps anon!
>>
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>>93937420
>spray primers chemically bonds the paint to the plastic
oh okay how do they do that exactly
>t-they don't need to chemically bond to be primers!
>>
>>93937430
I have never said otherwise anon.
Did you forget theres more than two people on this site?
>>
so is there some clear huge benefit if my primer bonds into my pewter/plastic model or can i just use whatever and achieve the exact same result with no worries if it works
>>
>>93937460
You can use anything for pewter but you cant use some ones on plastic as they can damage metal.
Anything that says its safe for plastic can be used and you will get the same priming effect.
>>
Found a guys GSC army that did a bunch of kitbashes to turn them into wasteland nomads. How do you manage to make these greyscale colorschemes look good and not just lazy? I'm blown away by some of them
>>
>>93937478
so basically this is just some warhammer broscience drummed up by youtubers or something and it doesnt really matter one way or another
its just fun to fight about
>>
The goal of primer isn't some kind of chemical bond, that's nonsense. The point is increased ADHESION. The primer sticks to your metal or plastic or resin mini and provides a better surface for your paints to stick to. Jesus christ, guys
>>
>>93937493
>How do you manage to make these greyscale colorschemes look good and not just lazy?
Undertones, probably. I doubt any of it is pure black.
>>
>>93937493
>>93938118
Probably, but it also probably just looks that good on a very well made picture.
>>
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Holy fuckin shit. Primer does not chemically bond to plastic.

Rattle can paint solvents and propellants can melt the plastic and melt the paint to it if you hose it down from point blank range. These solvents work in much the same way that plastic glue works because they're the same fucking thing. Plastic glue is just a solvent that's chemically melting the plastic.

Both spray paint and plastic glue use the same solvents. Spray cans use propane or butane as a propellent, and white spirits or acetone as a solvent to keep the paint wet.

Plastic glue like tamiya extra thin are literally just butane acetate and acetone.

It has nothing to do with the primer, the paint, or what have you, and everything to do with the solvents and aerosols in the rattle can!

Primers that work on metal also don't chemically bond to the metal. Self etching primer uses low levels of phosphoric acid that pits the metal on a microscopic level, thus allowing paint to adhere to the surface better. If they aren't chemically etching the metal they coat the metal in a lacquer resin which then provides the base for your paints to adhere to.
>>
>>93937541
What are you talking about?
>>
>End up deciding to try and paint my Tyranid Warriors next
>Despite having thought I’d succeeded in repairing them, the Tyranid Warriors (perhaps due to age) are still fragile
>Things keep breaking in one way or another while I’m trying to prepare them
>The Prime Conversion is proving difficult to keep stable
>On top of that despite fondness for them in past editions and how cool they look I’m well aware of how unreliable they have become in 10th
>The though of painting them up to do less than my Termagants has started taking the wind out of the sails
>Ended up just playing with one of my Cats for past few days instead
I want to make them work so badly anons but I don’t know how I can
>>
>>93938451
Play Grimdark Future with them.
>>
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>/wip/ is in primer meltdown mode again
I sleep
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Never too early to start secret santa projects right?
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>>93931678

The backside of the loincloth is unironically on a completely different level compared to the rest, looks reeeally good.
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>>93938648
I already have a box laden with 80's issues of White Dwarf and unfinished projects.
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>>93937508
any kind of paint with strong solvents (read acetone, etyl acetate, butyl acetate and so on, NOT ipa) will midly disolve the plastic (polystyrene, abs or polyethylene usually) it's applied on, so it will kind of 'bond' to the plastic, thats a fact

do you need that? no, is it better that not having it? maybe, but since its actually disolving the plastic you can also lose detail permanently if you apply too much or leave a rough surface (very common)

none of this makes any difference on metals, here better paints will be more resistant if the layer they create is more durable, but thats not only tied or guaranteed by the solvent that carries them, that said usually lacquers, enamels and typical rattelcans are more durable than typical acrylics

tldr; use whatever you find gets you good enough results for you
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>>93938648
I've been collecting snacks for my lucky anon as of January.
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>>93937353
It says on the can. It containst acetone which melts plastic so thats how. Also if you are that interested I'm sure you can find the whole chemical makeup in the safety datasheet
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>>93938830
thank you for the comprehensive rundown
i learned something new today
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>>93933724
Looks very good anon.
I really like the purple ork riding it
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>>93938648
>Never too early to start secret santa projects right?
I've been thinking about that too, anon.

October is right around the corner, and we haven't had any discussion at all. Generally speaking, our Santa opens a form on October 1st, the signups run through the entire month, and then the matches come shortly thereafter depending on how much time Santa has to devote to us.

Comments? Suggestions ... volunteers?
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>>93939089
Good eyes
I missed him entirely

>>93939152
I got an email from SSAnon
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Wow, I hate using yellow paint.
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>>93939152
Suggest farting into a jar of bitz and sending it as part of your present
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How dumb an idea is it to mix ink with acrylic medium to make a bit thicker but still super saturated and transparent paint? I'm at the stage of needing to layer a bunch of camo over a shaded mini and don't wanna fuck it up and redo stuff
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>>93939203
Yellow paint sucks until you start using it as a glaze over bone/white. It doesn't really have good coverage on its own
>>
do you have a quota to keep you going
i mean do you try to paint atleast few models everyday even if you dont feel like it
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>>93939203
ProAcryl makes a tolerable yellow pigment, even for brushing. Airbrushing always helps too, sometimes its just worth painting the whole mini in yellow base coat.

>>93939152
Santanon has already sent out an email to previous participants at least acknowledging he's doing it again this year.
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>>93939203
Paint it pink, highlight white, then paint yellow over that.
>>
>didnt get an email
It's over
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>>93939292
Get what you get, Grinch
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>>93939207
I suppose that should work, all you got to do is find the right ratio.
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>>93939213
I tried layer-painting it over white and I'm just disappointed. I'm tempted to just go back to ochre.
Maybe I should try the fanatic paint yellow. I picked up their white today and that went on pretty well.
>>
Please give me recommendations for display cabinets and enclosed shelves
Glass walls, white lights, the whole thing, please
I've got plenty of space
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>>93939357
most people go with ikea shelves it seems
i wish i had room for even one of those, i have armies on a table gathering dust like a poor person
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>>93939357
Previously the IKEA Detolff was the way to go but they killed it since it was too easy to mod in extra shelving, the new BLÅLIDEN looks nice enough but I don't know if it's expandable yet. You can also get acrylic doors and adjustable shelf inserts for Kallax if you've already got some.
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>>93933989
>>93935436
>>93932422
Thank you for these words.

>>93938727
Thank you. I feel like my picture makes the mini look worse than it does in real life. I have to learn proper lighting, or something.

Also, here is a pic of an Eversor I did last year. Never posted it here.
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>>93939281
>Santanon has already sent out an email to previous participants at least acknowledging he's doing it again this year.
D'oh!

You're right! That'll learn me!
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>>93939203
Basecoat white. Then coat with Imperial Fist Contrast Paint. Shade with Iyanden Yellow Contrast Paint, Cassandora Yellow, or some other appropriate yellow contrast style paint or shade. Then carefully highlight with regular yellow paints.

(For the white basecoat, I'd suggest Citadel Corax White until totally covered, then thin layers of a pure white like Pro Acryl Bold Titanium White. Corax White has incredible converage.)

The Magmadroth Flame contrast paint is also my new favourite method of painting orange. Magmadroth Flame and Imperial Fist give results that are so vibrant and it's just so easy and fun to use.
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>>93939583
I'm doing something similar: Iyanden yellow over white, and then Yriel yellow over that.
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>>93939583
I don't really like how the colors interact with each other but that's a damn good yellow anon, thanks
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>>93939405
I'm starting from scratch, so only things that currently exist and don't require something else first would be good
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>>93931060
Nice blue horror.
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Alright, I'm fucking done dealing with dogshit brushes. I'm buying myself a nice set. What do you anons recommend?
>>
For some reason I am incredibly fascinated by kitbashing lately, but where does one even start. I do have a few bits, but not enough for an entire miniature and would prefer not to cut up my existing minis. Also, would they even remain "legal" to play if they are trandformed so much?
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Can we talk sub assemblies? I've been using them pretty heavily (painted this dude with the arms and head separate), but I always seem to make at least some minor mistakes on the final assembly, even when the stuff dryfit great. It's starting to feel like the benefits of easier painting (at least it seemed that way to me), are not worth it.
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>>93940115
Windsor & Newton have always been a favorite of mine. They are, like, $20 a brush, though.
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>>93940135
Anything is legal among friends. Anything is legal at pickup games if your opponent says they're ok and you tell them what they are. Tournaments have their own rules, but as long as they're about the right size, they're distinct, and jt's clear what they're equipped with, most TOs will let them fly if you discuss them prior.
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I think I'm moving on to transfers and basing after cleaning up the mistakes I've noticed in the picture
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>>93940174
Yep, those are the apex. I might try picking up like a size 2, 1, and 0, and seeing how far those get me. I'll get some of that brush balm and a case too. I remember there was some Russian brand iirc that was more in the $10 a brush range or something like that but I forget
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>>93940115
I love rosemary and co, they serve me very well
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>>93940207
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gyTJIvTMAIY&list=LL&index=9

Yeah, taking care of them isn't hard and worth the effort.
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>>93940160
I exclusively paint in subassemblies, being a newish painter my non subassembly minis look like dogshit compared to a properly subassembled model. Maybe its because i paint CSM and subs make the chaos trim a little more manageable.
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>>93940214
I second this, i've got a few artis opus brushes, but I find I always got back to the rose and co Kolinsky sables, fucking great brushes and like >>93940251
says cleaning them means i;ve had decent brushes since 2021
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>>93938648
what paints did you use to do this, crimbus man? that skin looks really really nice
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>>93940115
I recommend buying cheap watercolor brushes in bulk and throwing them in the trash the second they aren't as sharp as they were when they were brand new.
The alternative is spending a bunch of fancy brushes, then having to be careful about not fucking them up, and eventually no matter how much you prolong it they'll be fucked up and need to be replaced ever.
Take the Harbor Freight pill.
>>
Trying to make a new tiny block house. I scored some great photos of historical examples and figured out better what they were build of, and am trying to better represent the boards and iron sheets used in their construction. Furthermore I've tried to texture the sandbags and have built them up on some earthen redoubt build around the block house. The plastic sheet base will get trimmed down and it will get sand when it's ready. The posts will get "barb wire" as the last touch. The top opens up and I can put dudes inside it.
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>>93939152
>secret santa
hey that sounds fun, can eufags participate too?
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>>93940531

Really fun to build. I'm going to try something bigger next, but I need to get more sheet plastic.
>>
Is anyone here in the know about the new AP paints, specifically their yellows? I bought their pure white paint earlier today at the recommendation of someone working at the LGS and I'm quite pleased with it, so I'm thinking of trying demon yellow.
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Sure you've drank the paint water, but have you eaten the paint tube pizza?
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>>93940600
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>>93940566
I would also be interested in this, the only swatch I've seen of it is by Tale of Painters and his procedure is weird (compare it thinned to competitor paints that aren't thinned? Of course the coverage is worse)
I do know it's slightly less saturated than the old daemon yellow, which I would assume is from adding titanium white for more opacity. Even in ToP's test it got 100% coverage after 3 thinned coats.
>>
How much lore do you invest into your /myguys/?

Mine only have 3 bullets points and my leader has a name that I'm not fully committed to since I keep thinking there is probably something better.
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>>93940661
You already asked this
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>>93940600
>>93940621
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>>93930898
so what the weapons are don't matter anymore? I was wondering weather to go with chainswords or chainaxes for my khorne berzerkers, but now I can just choose whatever and go rule-of-cool?
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>>93933735
How? The other eye is covered, anon

>>93933842
hell yea

>>93934549
From LPOMC on mmf

>>93934566
Gaps? The printlines on the leg? It's not noticeable in person honestly, but yeah I forgot to use Mr Surfacer an primered with a regular vallejo rattle can. I'll do better on the other 3
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>>93940661
I write short stories for my games, and all characters have names and inter-group dynamics that they follow on tabletop.
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>>93940661

One general has a name.

The Slaanesh army has a loose theme for a name and to answer "why" they're an army, but I've yet to incorporate it into their appearance.
>>
>>93940661
Not a lot. I named my cadre Doki Doki Shadowsun Fanclub, and have little reasons for why my various auxiliaries joined up. But nothing deeper than that. I don't even have names for my commanders, but I think about a personality and try to convert a personalized battlesuit for them.
>>
>>93940661
I bring names characters so I don't have to do shit
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>>93940344
Pro-Acryl Dark Skin/Tan Skin mix airbrushed on as a basecoat, Pro-Acryl Light Skin glazed on for highlights, and a light red oil wash in the shaded areas.

It took a while to get the proacryl colors to airbrush smoothly since they're heavy on pigment.
>>
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>>93940532
>hey that sounds fun, can eufags participate too?
Yes. There is always a plurality (if not a majority) of Americans, but there are plenty of participants from EU, a few from other parts of the new world, and one lonely anon in Japan. Our Santa is really good at matching people from neighbouring countries.

>>93940661
>How much lore do you invest into your /myguys/?
How do you know which squad is doing what if you don't at least issue bosspoles to your sergeants?
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>>93940661
>How much lore do you invest into your /myguys/?
Most of my armies have an established purpose, history, goal, named leaders. Some have named/custom painted/embellished rank and file troops who served with distinction. I love the narrative and letting my stories and characters grow with each event/battle.
>>
>>93940531
>>93940542
Looking good. Is it just plasticard and GS?
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>>93936776
An airbrush can prime fine
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>>93941248
Thanks anon, and yep just plasticard and milliput black. Trying to do something like pic rel.
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>>93940661
General vague theme for my T'au.

Human Auxiliary heavy to try promote better relations with the client races after a few commanders went 'no russian' on the Tau's ally races.

The hotblooded Shas'ui of my breacher team is Tsundere for one of her Gue'vesa.
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Not a bad result from an evening in the garage. Think I will invest in a degassing pot before I make another mold, though.
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>>93941837
Very cool anon. What did you use as a mold? I know jewelry is made from some sort of sand casting.
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>>93941837
Based, they look good.
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>>93942156
>What did you use as a mold?
I used Smooth-On Mold Max 60, a room temperature vulcanizing silicone that consists of a gooey rubber base and a tin catalyst. It has a high tear strength and can also withstand the kind of temperatures you encounter when melting things like lead or pewter.

My only regret is that since I don't have a degassing pot, there were tiny bubbles in a few places where I rather wish they had not been. Despite that, the Johnnies came out pretty well - much better than any of my previous attempts.
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>>93942270
NTA but cool stuff. How tight are the seams? Much flashing if any?
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>>93934095
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>>93934095
You can brush prime anytime. It's not hard, use as base color or priming paint and soft fuzzy brush to pounce the paint on, general guide second video http://embscomputerart.com/miniature-painting-instructional-videos/http://embscomputerart.com/miniature-painting-instructional-videos/
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>>93942430
you wait until the weather improves
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>>93936776
All base colors are suitable as brush on primers, corax white included, use frens guide second video in list, just remember 2 coats pounce on with cheap soft fuzzy brush to get into corners, good dry time maybe half day between. http://embscomputerart.com/miniature-painting-instructional-videos/
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>>93942270
Cool, gives me ideas
>>93940115
Best set i have is the gold series from green stuff world but I had major trouble getting my last order through customs so it's a risk ordering from them now, they also have a nice synthetic set but they are a little rough and sometimes lift previous layers if you don't use a light touch, Amazon has sales on winsor and newton series 7 size 2 brushes last i checked, good but you only get one, i use mine a lot, but you have to take care of sable with soap and hair conditioner so be aware of that before you make the switch to sables
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>>93942379
>NTA but cool stuff. How tight are the seams? Much flashing if any?
Very tight if I do it right, and almost none at all. Other than the long tube leading down to the tab under Johnny's left foot, which I immediately remove and throw back in the melter, the vents that you see on the third model from the left in >>93941837 are just about it.

I really used too much material to make this mold. It's so thick that I can't clamp it together with the equipment I have, and instead resorted to using several large rubber bands that - as you might imagine - disintegrate instantly if molten pewter touches them.

This was my first time working with Mold Max 60. The gooey red rubber mixes with the watery tin catalyst at a ratio of 100 to 3, and my most sensitive scale only goes up to 200 grams, so I was adding layers of about 150g at a time. For a two-part mold of a small Space Marine model like this, I think maybe about 250g per half would work out just right. The mold you see in >>93942270 is almost 750g.
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>>93939524
Cute
>>93942524
I love them, those lead? I have a lee casting pot and would love to make lead figures, only make bullets and fishing weights so far
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>>93940661
I have had a lot of fun with the lore of my dudes, almost all of which was created from the games I've played with them. Important or special individuals are given unique honors or base details, I've got a name for nearly every man in the army, and their Commander especially has had a lot of fun poured into him. I can't help it, I just love my Tyranids.
>>93941105
What's the secret santa thing out of curiosity?
Also, any advice on banners? I know Nids don't have or need them, but I think making a torn up "The End Is Nigh" type of flag would be fun.
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>>93941837
Damn these look great. This reminded me to check ebay again for my own Johnny.
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>>93942532
>I love them, those lead?
They're pewter - I'm pretty sure the mixture is more tin than anything else - but I know it has at least *some* lead and bismuth in it as well.

Pure lead is really too soft for making good Space Marines.
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>>93942470
>using base paint as primer
That's literally just not priming, use a designated brush primer at the very least.
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>>93942653
It is priming, acrylic hobby primer contains exactly the same pigments and binders as base paint does. Citadel has always said you can prime in this way. In fact cheap oil paint canvases are primed with an acrylic gesso which is all corax white is.
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>>93932422

Maybe like that african tribe flesh scar ritual?
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>>93937493
You take three colors replacing yellow red blue but muted versions and you add grey to them as needed to create tones, then you paint as usual, so basically you are limiting color saturation and tonal range. In that example the tonal range is called low key meaning a dark scheme
>>
Has anyone made a modern johnny using the new mark VI beakie kit?
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>>93940661
I've heard about someone putting little NFC chips under their kill team units bases, for programming in a name and other stats like how many kills that mini accomplished, etc. I kind of want to do it for my army, but it would ail me to come up with names for everyone
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>>93940661
As far as effort, Ive atleast sanded off the Death Guard and World Eater emblems from my plague marines and world eaters respectively, so I can give them my own origins. Still have much more to do.
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>>93942524
Nice anon, about hot much metal material in dollar terms goes into each mini?
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>>93931795
>based on dimes
Anon, you can get a circle punch for about $10, and a sheet of plastic is also pretty damn cheap.

>>93934333
For skirmish games and officers I sometimes get in depth like that. Rank and file not so much. But then I tend to convert almost all of my models and that level of investment is excessive when it's just a repose and weapons or head swaps.

>>93934871
I think the "claw" is a molded-in spider, Anon.
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I need your help /wip/. Do you know about any miniatures or stl files having a girl like pic related? I need it for my mordheim undead warband.
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>>93943168
Also looking for heads like pic related (masky empty faces), any hints?
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>>93942532
High-lead mixes lose a lot of detail over time and are very vulnerable to corrosion. You need some level of tin to keep it hard enough to hold detail. Salting it with a little bismuth is popular in very low-lead mixtures. 60-75% tin to lead gives you crisp detail while still being pourable and cheap, most modern casting mixes are more like 95% tin. Those tend to be too hard to easily cut and can develop weird crystalline structures that make them more likely to break when bent
In this photo you can see the crushing on detail on the high-lead minis on the left, while the middle keeps a lot more,
>>
>>93943216
Thank you, that helps. We usually use high lead low tin for black powder bullets, increasing tin as our intended velocity increases as it does when loading for smokeless powders or rifles. Rosin or beeswax used as a flux removes tin and copper from the mix requiring more to be added occasionally.
>>
>>93929506
Morning chaps

I’m wanting to paint Iron Warriors and have find a nice guide by lord Duncan, he mentions that he sprays leadbelcher(metallic) spray via a spray can to undercoat the miniature.

My question is can I use the normal paint and spray via an airbrush instead of the can?

Here is the video

https://youtu.be/DAnZjL-GsRI?si=0djll4UttZkLtQfZ

If anyone has any advice on painting iron warriors it would help too but the airbrush question will do
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>>93943283
Yes, but remember when spraying metallics you want to be especially careful to wear a mask and it might help to use a drop of propylene glycol and alcohol and water to thin because metallics dry fast and clog more easily, I'd base coat black, then light coat metallic then proceed as normal, spraying from a bit of a distance may help too but practice on plastic spoon to check
>>
>>93930241
I'd like to complain about the saturation
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>>93943320
I see thank you anon, so spray black, light coat of metalic and then follow the guide as normal? I’ll make sure to get some masks too, I have some rubbing alcohol too and also thinner so I’ll give it a shot
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>>93931060
Looks like a blue horror to me.
>>
So GW primer will fucked up plastic because it contained acetone?
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>>93943351
it has much less of the solvents that other brands has like army painter which has it in such abundance that a lot of people have accidentally ruined their minis by using it
>>
>>93943330
Yeah that's how i would do it, metallics almost always look better over black and black is a good primer usually
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>>93943372
I guess i will stick with mr surface 1500 then
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>>93931678
>>93942795
you vill name ze bumps
ALL of ze bumps
https://youtu.be/T0HHQu3q0E4?si=wHpN04164xWlW3bo&t=138
>>
>>93943351
Any miniature primer is safe for plastic as long as you do light coats and dry at least 15 minutes between layers preferably half hour depends on heat and humidity of course, the propellant has thinners but mild ones which is why odor is mild, but if you spray too much at once or too closely it can cause problems, usually about arms length is fine, start spray off model pass over it and release, a couple passes each direction, just light frosting is all that is required, hardware store primers have more harsh chemicals and have to be used more carefully, but miniature primers all fairly easy to use, contains no etching chemicals or strong solvents
>>
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Ok, so it's not just me!
I have to swear up and down my model looks better IRL than in photos whenever I share them with others, on photos it always looks like I missed to prime a bunch of places and has lots of chipped paint and stuff
>>
>>93943454
The camera is a harsh critic. It sees the truth but in a single myopic eye. Real eyes don't work that way at all. To us light flows, blends, blurs, light is experienced, but to the camera light is captured. It's entirely different. There's a reason many beautiful people are entirely unphotogenic, and many ugly people photograph beautifully. The camera can never capture the soul or the work of the artist made by the soul. It must be experienced in person.
>>
>>93943454
You can sometimes get around this by dropping the resolution back a couple steps.
>>
>>93943264
I know. What smokepole you rock? I've got an old Napoleonic-era musket and an Italian Colt Navy repro, looking for a Martini shotgun

>>93943351
It doesn't "fuck up" the plastic, it burns small pits in the surface and dyes the plastic. Standard plastic primers are fine unless you absolutely soak the model with them. Metal-only and automotive primers can damage some resins and plastics. Foam-safe primers have no etching agents and adhere very badly.
>>
>>93933724
Weird name for a monster...
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>>93943454
many people use camera filters but that takes it to the complete opposite end and goes into cheating territory
>>
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>>93943517
that was beautiful wtf
>least philosohpical intellectual /wip/ anon
>>
Does anyone have experience with the interactions of Oil paints and Enamels?

I'm fucking about with some weathering techniques on my metallics and I'm curious if I should be keeping them "seperate" from each other by letting previous layers cure properly before laying more enamel and oil washes over it?

Pic related, just a coat of brown enamels over the metallics so far
>>
>>93943375
Haven't even considered using any form of primer that isn't Mr Surfacer 1500 since I picked it up.
>>
>>93938182
Hmmm I never knew that about self etching primer. Is that what products like Black Track Pro is? I always wondered what it was.
>>
>>93940600
Checked and deemed nice. On a related note, once I rinse a brush and wipe it on a paper towel I always put the brush in my mouth and pull it through my lips. Anyone else?
>>
>>93943454
Your camera just better than your eyes. And on a phone or computer screen, the pic of the model is way bigger than it's originally is. Ofc you see more flaws that way
>>
>>93930578
I love the camo effect!
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>>93943577
I sometimes use optimize on Google pics
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>>93943542
I have many firearms. I enjoy Kentucky rifles and reproduction Colts though like you, a martini would be very nice
>>
>>93943608
Thank you, bob inspired me
>>
>>93940812
Correct

https://wahapedia.ru/wh40k10ed/factions/chaos-space-marines/Khorne-Berzerkers
>>
>>93943610
Very nice work so far, yes in general you want oils to dry before attempting to put anything on top especially enamel because enamel has a hard finish and can crack if the oil underneath continues to release moisture as it oxides, but in practice cracking is rare because both layers tend to fuse together somewhat especially if the layers are physically thin, it's much more of a concern when the lower layer is physically thick or has a large amount of oil in it called a fat layer but if that layer has been chemically thinned it's less likely to cause an upper layer to crack, the rule is fat layers should go over thin layers so upper layers have flexibility and dry slowly and lower layers stability and dry quickly, but as I said because our layers in miniatures are physically thin it generally doesn't crack anyway, but it can, usually it will if using an enamel varnish like a testors dullcoat before the oils or enamels have dried though because the whole figure is sealed up before dry, remember oils and enamel don't dry, they oxidize so you want an exchange of air to be free before any varnish, at least two weeks preferably two months, but you have to keep figure covered with paper cup to keep dust off or fuzzy figure. Also remember oils and enamels can be mixed and thinned together so it's okay to do a transition layer with some properties of both, just remember enamels get tacky much quicker than oils do and have more natural gloss and a harder finish making them best for final touches since layer adhesion of subsequent layers isn't as good due to the glassy finish, but they are great for jewels and such, almost all figures used to be done in enamels before the 1980s basically
>>
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does anyone have any advice to to make a shade like the old nuln oil. should i just contrast medium black templar?
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I’m sure this stuff is fine when used for its intended purpose of home repair but dear god is it absolutely miserable to work with when making terrain. Never again. This is what I get for using something besides Drydex for once. At least I had enough to finish my product and then I’ll never have to touch this crap again
>>
>>93943772
thanks mate, appreciate you taking your time to share your experiences and knowledge.

feel a lot more clued in now, will keep it thin and give a proper amount of time before final varnish
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Happy with this guy but I do feel the varnish really toned him down too much
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>>93943932
Very nice, but yeah maybe a bit too flat? What varnish?
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>>93943812
Black legion is darker and might match nuln better but yeah you can add contrast medium to either, they are just black inks and nuln oil is just an ink with extra medium, water, and a surfactant/soap to get to flow a bit better, that's why they bubble up a bit when you shake them, old school guys would use acrylic floor polish as the soap, you can just run your moist brush over a bar of ivory soap before applying the paint to the model for the same effect or add a drop of mostly clear soap water and contrast medium to your wet palette to make a black nuln oil ink. To get a harder slighty glossy finish probably closer to old nuln oil also add half drop gloss varnish to the mix or matte for a matte finish. Experiment on scrap textured plastic primed medium grey.
>>
>>93943854
Let me guess, silicone additives causing issues? Add small amount of sand.
>>
>>93943932
mix the varnish with citadels contrast medium
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>>93943932
Looks great, many such cases though, if have gloss varnish mix with medium and small water to make a refresher satin varnish to apply to metals with soft brush, if have linseed oil, walnut oil, poppy seed oil, or safflower oil, can use that reduced with touch of thinner for same effect, but 2 weeks dry time before handling, wash brush with soap and water though if use oil
>>
>>93943883
No problem at all fren
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>>93943937
Vellejo matte.

Gonna try a mix with the contrast medium for Lemartes
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A bit of sand, a bit of glue, some primer, the first sloppy splashes of paint. I'll finish it tonight.
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>>93944046
Looks really good, pungee sticks nice touch
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>>93944046
good job
>>
>>93943649
Don't lick or mouth your brush, bad habit, some chemicals we use are toxic so you don't want accidents in the future, hobby paint is low toxicity but you never know, sometimes we paint lead figures or use varnishes or special paints like oils that might contain solvents or heavy metsls like cadmiums, chromiums, lead, mercury sulphides, etc so best to break the habit now
>>
>>93944053
>>93944103
>pungee sticks
Thanks anons, I appreciate it. But those aren't pungee sticks, they're just posts that hopefully will support some barbed wire when everything is done.
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>>93940531
>sharp brass rod
I give it 4 games until a visit to the hospital
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>>93944329
If you have to go to the hospital because you pricked your finger on a piece of brass rod that's less than 10mm long, I have no sympathy for you.
>>
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>>93931060
Thank you for showing us you blue horror, anon, it's very nice.

Please look at my accursed cultist torment in return
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Done, how's he looking bros? Yes I did notice the fucking uncleaned plastic under the pauldron, gonna fix it when I get home from work
>>93944500
I have looked at it and checked the dubs, too. He's looking pretty gross but that's the point so good job.
>>
Does anyone here use DAS clay for textured bases? Anything I need to know beforehand that might not have come up? I have a texture roller I've used successfully on greenstuff before, just hoping for a cheaper solution for my army. Planning on rolling out the base toppers, cutting them out with round cutters, and gluing to the plastic base - pretty sure that should work, but maybe there's pitfalls I don't know of.
>>
>>93940643
There's a decent chance that when I go back to the store I'll pick up a trio of yellow fanatic paints. One for the shadows, one for most of the model, and one for the top surfaces.
>>
Maybe it's been a long time since I last primed anything, but did I fuck up on spraying or is GW white primer just chalky?
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>>93944429
That's long enough to get to any artery or vein in the finger.
Just sand it a little on the ends.
>>93944713
Amazing again anon!
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>>93945499
Did it chemically bond to the mini properly?
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>>93945499
Little of both. A little tooth actually helps, especially with contrasts, but white primers are always temperamental.
>>
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Anyone backing the p3 kickstarter in the last few hours before it goes?

IMO the lack of VAT being included making it 2.85 a pot is too much of a gamble when there's new vallejo, ttc, ak 3rd gen.

Feels like it's missed the boat.
>>
When a model has a bunch of tiny medals and details can you paint your main base coat over it and then fix it at a later stage?
Say my dudes armor is grey, I paint the grey overtop of him, but he also has tiny satchels and shit that get painted grey as well. Can I fix it by painting the stuff the normal color?
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>>93945586
The color might show through a little but grey is the best color for that actually.
>>
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>>93929506
Making an Elucidean Starstrider kill team. Just got the base coat and a little bit of the detailing done. The Tesla coils are gonna be tricky, but should be fun.
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>>93945613
What a silly little dude
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>>93945569
woah you guys must really be desperate to shill your shitty paints here lmao
>>
>>93945569
>>93945648
These paints are too expensive for me I'm not paying $6 for paints I don't know are good are not from the UK shipping would make it even more.
>>
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Reposting from the Kill team general to gather some more ideas.
I am playing the Rogue Trader crpg, and when i arrived in pic related planet, i really felt the urge to have a gaming table with overgrown prefab buildings and rusty imperial gear and equipment.

Any suggestions for plants (fish tank stuff, moss?) are welcome.
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>>93945663
Also, anyone knows or recognizes what exactly was used to create the plants here...
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>>93945670
...or here?
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>>93945621
It really is a silly kit. They’re all very different from each other, but it allows me to experiment a bit more than normal.
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>>93945525
can we PLEASE not start this again
>>93945524
Thank you anon! If you see any fuckups or have any pointers I'm all ears, still have 6 of these guys left after all. I think I have a basic grasp on volumetric highlights now
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Tried to a base split between reality and delusions for flesh eater courts, any ideas on how to improve the concept?
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>>93931060
I have gazed upon it
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>>93945534
I think I'll revert to just priming black and painting white over the parts I want to be yellow. The new white from AP seems to do pretty well so far, so it won't be as much of a headache as it was.
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>>93945741
Maybe you could go even wilder with the color palette on the delusion side?
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>>93945648
>woah you guys must really be desperate to shill your shitty paints here lmao
>points out how they're expensive
>points out there are already competitors
>says it missed the boat

How the fuck is that shilling
>>
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>>93945842
I tried fully covering it in blood next, I'm thinking of putting skulls and such on the bases I'll actually use
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>>93946051
I liked the version with a wasteland or whatever more
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>>93946051
Oh, also, it's a sorta knightly delusion, so I was going for a serene flowery field there, they think they're the good guys as they eat people alive and such
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>>93945804
Just prime with medium grey anon, much easier to get to brighter colors that way and the darker ones will still go on just fine. I really don't understand why so many people are set on priming black
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>>93929506
is it normal for xacto blades to oxidize and tarnish and dull within a week or so of use cleaning moldlines or did I just buy some really cheap ones
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>>93945569
Is it the same manufacturer as the old range, or is it entirely new?
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>>93946085
>don't have a grey primer
>have used black primer since starting painting since I like its results and almost never paint anything white
>like being able to ignore impossible recesses by leaving them black
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>>93945741
Have you tried making the shift gradual across the whole base as opposed to having a hard line? From left to right, the grass and ground could steadily become more barren.
I'd also be curious to see how the meadow side would look with a light spattering of blood on some of the flowers.
>>
>>93942551
>What's the secret santa thing out of curiosity?
Every year, our hard-working Santa builds us a survey form where we submit our information to him. He matches us with another anon, and you send a Christmas gift to that anon. In turn, some other anon got you, and sends you a Christmas present It's customary, when you receive your gift, to post pictures of it here in the WIP thread. Here are galleries from previous years:

>2023
https://imgur.com/a/e9QOmJJ
>2022
https://imgur.com/a/2OWxHpg
>2021
https://imgur.com/a/TKfeLxU
>2020
https://imgur.com/a/TeduVrJ
>2019
[REDACTED]
https://imgur.com/a/sRT7kKm
>2018
https://imgur.com/a/UWRYKEq
>2017
https://imgur.com/a/qS7PH
>2016
https://imgur.com/a/1fxhq
>>
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>>93945715
On the front pic, the top of the flame looks a little chunky, probably just dried on your brush idk.
>>
>>93946181
Either your humidity is insane or you cut into something wet or acidic. Should be impossible to tarnish carbon steel with just plastic.
Dulling could be because of the corrosion or cheap metal.
>>93946212
Take the zenithal pill. You don't enough white for it to get grainy, and the recesses stay shaded.
>>
>>93945741
>>93945842
Never seen anyone go full Sheogorath with FEC before, could be kino.
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>>93946562
Good catch, thanks. I also missed that I slipped some silver onto the ouroboros
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>>93942551
>Also, any advice on banners?
All the banners in >>93941105 are made out of construction paper, if you wanna go that route. In a few cases, I used a photocopier (this was before the Dark Age of Technology) to shrink an official image down and attach it to the paper with rubber cement before painting it. In other cases, I used waterslide transfers to apply chapter insignia. Finally, some of the fancier ones - like the dreadnoughts, I drew with pencils, inked with Sakura pens, and painted with acrylic paint.

>>93942933
>Has anyone made a modern johnny using the new mark VI beakie kit?
I don't think I've seen one using the new kit (yet), but there are a few in the collage using other plsatic kits with Mk VI helmets and even a Primaris version in Mk X Tacticus Armour (7th row, 4th from the left).

>>93943184
>Also looking for heads like pic related (masky empty faces), any hints?
Old 5th Edition Blood Angel Sanguinary Guard. Get ready to shell out, though.
>>
>>93946181
Are they Xacto brand or chinesium?
>>
>>93946581
I do live in the PNW, and my thumb's usually in heavy contact with the flat of the blade when I'm scraping
>>93946658
some brand called DIYSELF so probably cheap chinesium, I just grabbed the first bulk listing I saw
>>
>>93946532
Can I participate in this even if I'm not the best painter? I look at stuff like >>93944500
>>93944713
as being all but impossible.
>>
Give it to me straight, is the base going to be too overpowering? It's not finished yet but I'm getting cold feet on it (ironically). I wanted it to have an epic feel, think the volcano fight in RE5.
>>
it's basing time again
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>>93946941
maybe actually attach the image
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>>93946836
>Can I participate in this even if I'm not the best painter?
Of course! Did you look at the galleries from past years? It's the spirit of giving for Christmas, not the Rusty Nurgling painting competition.
>>
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>>93946532
damn this is so wholesome, I definetely want to participate
>>
>>93946532
This shit is the highlight of the holiday season for me
A bunch of randos who get together to spread cheer
>>
>>93939152
>on October 1st

About that.. i said in the email "1st week of October" because 1st is a Tuesday, so it might be that work prevents me from doing it on that specific day. Might be on Monday already, might also be a bit later.

>>93940532
For sure

>>93939545
If you participated last year, you should have the mail. Its nothing special, just a short "lets do it again this year"-mail because i did not want to derail the thread weeks ahead of time.

>>93946532
Thanks for always collecting the pictures and having those galleries at hand whenever someone asks. I certainly could not do that.

>>93946968
>>93946983
If you visit /WIP/ regularly, you wont miss the sign-up posts during October. Everything will be clear by then.
>>
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My first quar is drying from the wash.
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>>93947066
>If you visit /WIP/ regularly, you wont miss the sign-up posts during October
I'm here pretty much every single day lol. Thanks for the heads up, anon. I think I already know what I'll paint for this
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>>93947066
>work prevents me from doing it
Same thing happens to me; otherwise, I'd have a lot more painted Space Marines by now.

>Thanks for always collecting the pictures and having those galleries at hand whenever someone asks. I certainly could not do that.
You're welcome.

Thanks for being our Santa. I was worried a couple of times (including this year, as I had neglected to check my E-mail box in a timely manner) that you wouldn't be able to do it again, and everyone would want me to take over. I don't think I could do what you do.
>>
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>>93946907
I don't want to get you in trouble by suggesting to mess with the giant when it already looks so good, but OSL is what would really tie the giant to the base.
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>>93946532
That's amazing, thank you anon! I don't know if I'd be able to participate (I can hardly afford to get anything new to begin with), but it's really nice to be able to see people getting together in spread the spirit of Christmas.
>>93946631
Thanks; when I get to my Marines I'll keep this in mind, but I'll try to make some fun posters or banners for my Tyranids in the meantime, or at least for themed terrain.
>>
>>93947066
I'm going to email you this year after i fill the form in to make sure it actually went through so i don't have to pester you last minute like last year.
I swear to god i filled in the form on day 1
I still have all this ork stuff set aside for some lucky anon
>>
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>>93945741
I tried it on a model I did a while ago, just did some small patches, do I just put some PVA glue down, apply grass and then smack/shake the excess off? That's what I did there
>>
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She's finally here.
I'm going to tell my grandkids that this is a Sister of Battle.
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>>93947345
I'm a little too scared to attempt it because I've heard bad OSL is worse than no OSL but it would definitely elevate it
>>
When painting yellow, would it be a good idea to undercoat the underside of the model with something like bone/beige or pink?
>>
>>93946836
I'm the guy who painted the chaos spawn thing. Anon. It's not impossible at all. There's loads of bits on it I'm not happy with, and I'm sure youre the same when you paint a model. The best thing about this hobby is that it's not a sport. You should be proud of the model you paint now. Because it will make you better for the next one. Don't give up dude. I'd love to see yoir models
>>
>>93946836
Seconding this anon here >>93947780
Just keep at it and you'll get there. Here's my shit chaos lord from 3 years ago next to my most recent models.
>>
>>93947780
I appreciate the encouragement. My hands shake. I still manage to get things done, but I'll make so many little fuckups, and then I have to go back over them, and then I'll make little fuckups when I'm fixing the little fuckups... The fastest I've painted a mini was one day, and it was a super basic paint job.
>>
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>>93947971
Forgot pic
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>>93946907
It'll be fine once you've drybrushed the basalt and added the highlights to the magma
>>
>>93947984
Originally commenting for that powerfist effect, but then I saw that daemonette on the left. Wonderful work for both of them.
>>
>>93945499
All good primers are slightly chalky especially white, makes a good bond, lighter coats and slightly closer distance helps but in any case will be a bit chalky
>>93945569
Absolutely not. P3 paints fucked up just like vallejo and changed their entire line and formula and switched to dropper bottles exactly opposite of what their customers wanted because youtube talking heads told them to, fuck them, I'll never buy their shit again, back to coat darms
>>
>>93948246
Wait, what the fuck is wrong with dropper bottles?
>>
>>93945670
Looks like stuff used to make plastic flower arrangements and moss
>>93945741
Looks good to me, use a little paint to transition grasses into ground color
>>93947517
Would
>>93946181
Normal if conditions are right, such as wet hands, salty sweaty hands, cutting wet stuff, onions, etc, it doesn't hurt them though it's just surface rust, wash with toothbrush, dry, wipe over a tissue saturated with mineral oil or gun oil or even olive oil or crisco veg shortening after use and remove excess, when you sharpen them next time the rust will be polished off the edge and you can lay flat on stone to polish sides too, you can remove most with baking soda and moist toothbrush but that dulls the edge forcing you to sharpen now so not worth it, most people don't know how to sharpen properly so treat blades as disposable anyway, if you do dispose after they get dull put inside use milk jug or something to prevent cuts for initial trash pickup, but I always save my blades and resharpen or even reshape for special purposes, the steel is good, they rust because they are low chromium carbon steel, not stainless, that's for better edge holding ability and ease of sharpening, stainless is inferior for knives surprisingly, if you have naturally salty sweaty hands washing and drying hands before use will help but coat of mineral oil is best to protect blades, wipe on clean tissue just prior to use though so no oil gets on model, i need to do video on knives, lots of people ask about them and nobody is really addressing questions or how to handle and sharpen them correctly for hobby use, my dad taught me so old knowledge not found today
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>>93948283
Dropper sucks, paint has to be too thin to make use of droppers and they all leak, paint should be the consistency of a mud out of the paint pot because you can always thin but can never thicken, when i make my own paint and load up with mud level pigment my experience is the best, all impasto and edge highlights are possible and i can thin down to any consistency, the paint companies cheat you by making a runny consistency to save on pigment, dropper bottle companies are the worst, the advantage of the classic citadel 1988 style pot is literally infinite shelf life, all dropper bottles are designed to destroy your collection just like the new citadel pots are. Caps break, nipples split, bottles split, leaks impossible to detect, but the classic paint pots are enchanted and last forever, plus you can thicken pot paint by leaving cracked, not so with droppers, droppers are the devil
>>
>>93947495
Yeah, you can do that, works fine, can also comb some on table one direction with tweezers then gather as a bundle to glue patches that stand upright. Then there's static grass applicators that use a static charge to help with that, but balloons and head rubs do same thing
>>
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First attempt at painting a rough rider, needed a break from painting infantry.
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>>93948463
Looks great fren, what game?
>>
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Does any company sell flock in these colours?
These tufts are just 2mm blue and 4mm pink static grasses, right?
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>>93948402
post models
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>>93948476
I'm more interested in him posting his custom paint.
>>
>>93948468
Green stuff world has colored tufts but i couldn't get my order through customs last two times because of the wood thing i ordered for some reason so order with caution, they are probably going to need to establish an American distributor if they want me as a customer, i don't sign customs documents https://www.greenstuffworld.com/en/68-grass-tufts?page=4
>>
>>93948468
Check greenstuffworld
>>
>>93948466
40k, it's from one of the newer kits for imperial guard.
>>
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>>93948476
Basic stuff, will be adding color to general lee soon, and need to do the basing for elf guy like his brother i have, zombie in back was half hour color sketch because fren here said green and purple hard to scheme, i said challenge accepted, little zombie accidentally scaled so he was a surprise print, will use to torment my brother, give as gift for Christmas maybe. Chaos warrior was half hour job, just wanted to do black
>>
>>93948540
Nice really good sculpt
>>
>>93948468
if you cant find it make it yourself, get the brigthest pink paint you can find and tint some sawdust
>>
>>93948491
I can make any paint any pigment any medium, acrylic, watercolor, oil, enamel, alkyd, whatever, also dyes, inks, varnishes, solvents, mediums, flow improvers, etc. My pigment collection is extensive.
>>
>>93948583
Have you ever painted tomb kings with homemade mummy brown?
>>
>>93948590
No, but i have mummy brown equivalent pigment, caput mortuum, could easily do, real mummy brown contains arsenic so best to avoid, but could make from scratch by mummification process if i had to, but then I'd be cursed, mummy curse, it's real, but I've made paint from the caput before, it's a nice violet brown
>>
>>93948631
So you're saying that I could get real mummy brown, paint some tomb kings, and have a cursed-for-real mummy army?
Sounds amazing.
>>
>>93948636
I could yes, now that you put it that way sounds kinda based huh?
>>
>>93946681
Real Xacto #11 blades should be carbon steel coated with zirconium nitride, so yeah, you got chinesium
>>
>>93947973
But that's OK. Like I said it's not a sport. It never has to be perfect, it just has to have soul. PaInt a model to whatever standard you can manage, and so long as you thinned your paints and complete the base, it's a million times better than some pay piggy greytide.
>>
bout time for a new thread
>>
Does varnish protect a model against fading from direct sunlight?
>>
>>93949140
Only if it chemically bonds to the sunlight.
>>
>>93949140
Some will, but not all, and some varnishes will yellow with UV.
Also this >>93949167
>>
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Test batch for a bunch of bugs
>>
>>93949140
I don't think anything protects from UV light. Even car paint fades in the sun and they're using super thick clear coats and aren't shy about using gnarly chemicals to get what they want. We'd see it in other industries if there was a way to protect against fading
>>
>>93948827
>bout time for a new thread
Sure!

>>93949959
>>93949959
>>93949959



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