I need help guise.
I was having issues with prints not sticking to the front of my buildplate.
I attempted to remedy this by:
>cleaning my build plate
>roughing up the build plate 400 grit
>re-levelling
>heating the vat with a strap brew heater
The prints are sticking except for the left front corner, so this is progress.
Next steps that I can see:
Acetone the shit out of the etched build plate and scrub.
Re-level again (I am using the two piece of paper method)
My question - is the plate too close to the screen in that one corner or could it be something else?

>>93933519
Oh, and I also decreased the lift speed, and increased exposure time (20s burn in, 4s thereafter)

>>93933519
Either the build plate isn't level or it isn't flat. Try leveling it against an empty vat.

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>>93933644
That helped, thank you.
But I had some lifting in the problem corner, towards the centre.

Build plate texture seems good all over. I think I may either just avoid that spot or commit sudoku trying to sort it out.

printing is dead. billions must buy

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First decent prints I've managed to make so far. I did fuck up and tear off the cellist's dangling spine as I was removing the supports, will have to see if I can glue it back. Speaking of which, what do you guys do with all the supports afterwards? Do you just throw them away or have you figured out some use for them?

>>93939049
rubble, paint stirrers, but mostly they are pretty useless

>>93939049
>what do you guys do with all the supports afterwards?
Keep a few if you need to test how any paint/primer/varnish look with that resin. Print fails are better for this though.
Have also seen them used for filler/reinforcement in plaster for larger rocks molds/terrain. But I've never done this so can't say how well it works.

>>93939049
There's a method for cleaning the vat using some but I haven't tested it.

>>93942900
yeah you stick a support in and click the clean vat and then use the support as a handle to remove the cured layer

>>93943150
Never worked for me, always the new sheet broke off, so now I don't bother with keeping sprues.

>>93944066
Do you have a mars sized printer or something bigger?

so 8k printers are infinitely better than 4k ones, right? In my country there is a ton of 3d printing services but the only one that want to print me vehicles only has a 4k printer. I am fucked?

>>93945285
no. 4k, 6k,8k,12k is meaningless marketing metric that does not actually tell you jack shit.

Why? Because it refers to screen resolution, not actual pixel size. And you are printing physical objects, not watching tv.

if you compare a small and large 4k printer, the print resolution on small printer will be way higher than on large one, despite both being nominally 4k.
Even worse, you can get lower print resolution from large 8k printer than from small 6k printer.

Its all bullshit. What you relly need to know is pixel density per square inch , equivalent of dpi in paper printing.

But you need to calculate it yourself, as long as you know real screen size and its exact resolution., but for some reason most manufacturers dont share this info in their product sheets.

>>93945558
>for some reason
You answered your own question.

Are you supposed to remove the sword and stuff from the cones of calibration after or before curing them?

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I’m trying to find some thunder hammers for my thousand sons, I’ve been looking for something vaguely Persian/Egyptian or even indo-persian, but I can’t find shit. Any suggests o great anon?

>>93933490
I was told that I might find the STLs for >>93951507 here

>>93951749
I think there's been a miscommunication, what they actually meant was "Fuck off, you demanding faggot."

>>93951749
3dpg never shares anything.
If you want to actually find some stuff, visit tranny

>>93933490
Does anyone have any good Bundeswehr or Modern German infantry files they wouldn't mind sharing? I'm trying to get a few skirmish rulesets going at my LGS.

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2nd big vehicle on my mars 2. Little fiddly to glue together but happy with how it came out.

It's finally happened, my Saturn 1 has dead spots and my prints have large holes through them. Considering the price of a new LCD screen os the cost of a Saturn 2, I went ahead and ordered a new machine. Any recommendations on what to do with the old one?

>>93958329
Print Swiss cheese

>Lychee requires both an account and an internet connection to use
I hate modern software so much.

>>93958329
save it for spare parts, only takes 3 dead resin printers to make an FDM printer motion system

Any tips for buying used?
I found a saturn 2 for really cheap, I thought of asking the guy to print a calibration cube and screenshot the lcd test

The worst would be me needing to swap the lcd and fep right?

>>93960479
I wouldn't ask for a calibration cube, that would only demonstrate whether or not he knows how to dial in his settings. I would ask for some examples and what's been made. I bought used, and the machine was previously owned by a middle-aged gentleman who only used it a handful of times to do some prototyping and then shelved it for a year. Try to get a vibe; I felt the seller was genuine and wasn't lying or trying to rip me off and my experience was positive.

You'll always have to change the FEP over the lifespan of the printer. I'd recommend doing it as a self-training exercise before even powering on your machine.

>>93960922
The LCD looked fine
I got it on impulse because he was also getting rid of large amounts of resin and also the curing machine

I'm gonna get a respirator and test it soon, thanks

>>93960479
The main issue would be how many hours has the screen been used for.

>>93962795
That's almost identical to my experience; I picked up a Photon Mono X w/ the cleaning station and 3500g resin for $200 CAD this May.
Good luck, be safe, have fun anon

Might print some Rings of Power sculpts lads. Love the goyslop me

>>93968346
Was anyone part of the groupbuys from mythlands and others?

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Friend of mine printed me this

>>93969243
Looks great. Who designed it?

>>93969295
StationForge minis, they make pretty cool 40k proxies

Anyone know a good place to get great good sci-fi mech battle suits?

I recently bought a saturn 4 ultra to replace my old photon mono SE.
What is this auto leveling horseshit? It doesnt fucking work. Ive been having issues with leveling it since day 1, what the fuck do i do? Ive fucked with it for dozens of hours at this point and i cant get it to level 100%, so prints always fail either everywhere, in the middle or in the corners. Feels like its not pushing down enough. Anyone got any ideas, what i should do? Im fucking losing my mind with this shit. I should have just bought a saturn 3.

>>93972028
https://www.myminifactory.com/search#/?{%22searchString%22:%22mech%22}

>>93973260
Are you levelling it with the FEP in place?
Temperature fixed most of my issues. After that it was settings. Also I had more successful prints with ABS-like and ABS-like blends.

>>93975536
>Are you leveling with FEP in place?
No, im doing it with 4 pieces of paper in each corner, then turning the nuts under the plastic top bit above the build plate. Just screwing/unscrewing the screws at the top doesnt do enough. The whole thing is really tilted on its back corners, to the point that i can freely slide paper on the front.
The settings arent the problem. The few times that shit actually managed to print i got good prints, its just that i get a lot of early failiures as the burn in layers or supports dont actually stick to the build plate, 100% not settings related.

>>93973260
>What is this auto leveling horseshit?
(this is just my thoughts after watching YT vids so could be wrong)
It seems like the auto leveling is sorta just a name. What it is really doing is auto detecting pressure when the build plate hits the bottom. So it knows when to go up.

What I would do is lock the plate screws in place as tight as they can (if you can) and just adjust your Z home within the printer settings.(don't crack your screen. Lower it slowly and manually when close to the bottom)
Also people say to use paper for leveling but just put your clean vat in and use the FEP since thats what it will normally use. Then once you have Z home where you want it raise the build plate by .01 mm 2-3 times and set that as home.
This is what has always worked for me on my original Saturn but I don't know if it will work for you.

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>>93893564
Same shit happened to me. Ended up breaking the glass underneath the lcd. If you contact Elegoo support, they usually are pretty good about replacement parts, I got a new glass and screen for free.
Second time that happened the resin was too caked in and I just got a new 5 on sale. It's ok.

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What happened to BolterJugend's Mark 7 armor? Is it still floating around? He doesn't sell it online anymore.

>>93986339
>BolterJugend
Yeah nah james, he's long gone.

I'm seeing some used Elegoo mars 4 being sold for ~150$, is it good?
Don't know how fast the technology advanced nor if buying "used" printers is a dumb idea or not

>>93991647
find out how many hours the screen has been used for. most have fuck all because this hobby isnt for every one

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Why does cured resin smell so much?

Used ABS like 3.0, but found it to be extremely brittle, so I bought sulu tough. Initially it was wonderful, but left a couple of pieces outside a couple of days and when picking them up they were almost disintegrating and breaking ( the small parts). They felt tacky after being wet like its dissolving somehow in water (the resin is not water washable or anything like that).


My question is, how the fuck do I prevent the prints to smell? I dont want to have parts emitting shit in my bedroom or degrading in a month. Is this because of elegoo abs like 3 (smells but mechanical properties are ok) or sulu though (perfect mechanical properties the first days after printing, breaking the next month)?

>>93991647
get the mars 3 pro, had to return the mars 4 because it lacked AA or ctb file support. They completely fucked up mars 4 model, go for the 4 pro but 3 pro is my recommendation because you get the exact same with a bigger print area for much less.

>>93991755
>had to return the mars 4 because it lacked AA or ctb file support.

ctb file support?

>>93991647
I got a mars 4 ultra used for $150 straight from elegoo, for the ultra it's a good price, I wouldn't pay that for the base or dlp versions though unless it comes with extras

>>93991778
there are 2 main print formats, .goo (no AA afaik) and .ctb. Since mars 4 only can print .goo it doesnt have AA and it cannot be fixed with firmware updates so the printer cant do anti aliasing or any kind of blur so you get a better quality using the cheaper mars3 even with the screen having less resolution

>>93991801
Is it different on mars 4 pro? I'm printing chitu files just fine with it.
I'm not arguing against mars 3, but so far I did not notice any file restrictions with my 4pro

>>93991826
yes, they fixed that on the pro model. Basically the pro model was what should have been the regular one. Not sure if they made it on purpose to see if they can just charge more or they just fucked it up.
The worst part is that the lack of AA and .ctb support is not mentioned anywhere, to the point that I had to mail the company to know and even then they answered with "yeah, we working on it" with the mars5 already on the market

>>93991739
Cured prints will always have a slight smell. Prime them to get rid of smell.
Also make sure you are cleaning your prints properly and they won't be tacky. Get a small tub or something and have it be your final clean wash of IPA.
Don't leave your unprimed prints outside for days.

>>93991877
I cleaned the pieces, they were perfect but got tacky after leaving them out after water contact.
I didnt expect resin to be this fragile compared with plastic, always though of it as regular plastic when cured. How long will my minis last realistically?
Doesnt the resin keep emitting particles even primed ones? primer is not a 100% safe seal and I will be getting pretty close when painting them. Havent found any strong evidence of cured resin being safe to touch either so...

>>93991843
I see. That explains it, and in this case, of course avoid the plain Mars 4. (Especially with the Pro not being that much more expensive), but if there is a good deal on Mars 3, it will do it. Especially if its the first printer.

>>93991935
Minis can last forever as long as you don't break them by dropping them or something like that.
>Doesnt the resin keep emitting particles even primed ones?
>Havent found any strong evidence of cured resin being safe to touch either so...
Maybe I'm wrong but pretty sure if prints are cured they are fine to touch and just have laying out. Just don't eat/lick them.

Maybe some other anons can chime in though.

>>93992289
would love to see a clear evidence of that, I think Im starting to get a little paranoid with all that.

>>93991935
>Havent found any strong evidence of cured resin being safe to touch either so...
Cured resin is safe as long as you are not turning it into a fine powder and snorting it 24/7. There is an Anon here, in /wip/ and elsewhere that always chimes in about how deadly resin is and how all resin - even cured is emitting toxic fumes that will give you prostate cancer and brainwash CPS into taking your kids. Common sense and caution is good, but photopolymer resin is used in everything from refinishing floors to dental fillings and mouthpieces. If it was nearly as lethal as the trolls claim it would be banned.

is there like a secret .zip file somewhere with 40k models

>>93994144
of course

>>93976012
>level with vat
Thank you for this. I tried it and ive been getting good prints with no issues since. I was sceptical at first since the printer itself says that you shouldnt level with vat and since you cant set z home and modify as you would with a normal printer. The printers home is at the top and not at the bottom as it is normally anyway.

>>93994457
Glad it worked out for you anon.

Looking more at that printer and even other new printers it seems like they add so much new tech and mechanics to the printer. Seems like they do it just because it's a new generation/model of printer and they have to add something new. Like that plate with the gap in the middle. Just an awful design.
While for example my original Saturn is just a screen and a z axis and it works just fine.
I'm just ranting/rambling though.

>>93994985
Yeah, youre completely right. Its kinda overdesigned with new tech trying to make everything automatic and preset. The issue is that they didnt put a good way to manually tweak them when the inevitably break or are broken from the start.
I gotta say tho, i think the whole system of having the vat move down and right to pull off the resin off the FEP is actually really good and works much better than the classic way.
The preset speeds are also interesting, though it isnt nearly as fast as if you manage to dial in a good resin and max out speed normally.

>>93995169
>i think the whole system of having the vat move down and right to pull off the resin off the FEP is actually really good and works much better than the classic way.
I was pretty intrigued when I saw that but having the additional components inside the printer worries me just in case they break/fail over time.

If you had a previous printer how does it compare speed wise? I use "Vroom" settings and can do a print the entire height of my printer in 7 hours.

>>93995273
I used a photon mono SE before. I figured out i could print really fast with Primacreator water washable resin and maxxing out speed at 300 for ascending and descending speed without any print failiures.
This isnt nearly as fast. Im currently using elegoo water washable and im can print about 2000 layers in about 3 hours and a bit. It still feels like a decent speed and ignoring the leveling issues, it seems very reliable otherwise, I never feel the need to switch down to the slower print mode for fear of something not printing.
I rember it was advertiswd as being able to print up to 150mm/hour. Im not sure how the hell that would be possible.

>>93993025
>resin is used in everything from refinishing floors to dental fillings and mouthpieces
floor ones are treated and specifically made for that (not UV reactive), and the mouthpieces ones are for molds, no doctor will put UV resin in your mouth.

Still, havent found any strong evidence of cured resin being safe to touch

>>93994144
sure, try out on telegram

>>93996322
https://ameralabs.com/blog/uncover-resin-safety-myths-3d-printing/
https://blog.prusa3d.com/everything-you-always-wanted-to-know-about-resins-and-safety-sla-printing-but-were-afraid-to-ask_70758/

Treat Resin with the same respect as you would something like bleach or strong household cleaner. Cured resin is fine. If you are that worried cure it after the initial curing.

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I'm thinking of switching resin, i've exclusively used 3djakes color basic, but i want something more...springy, i suppose. For those who haven't used this, when cured it's really hard, but pretty brittle, so fingers, hair and the occasional spear snaps off rather easily. Smells like nothing and is pretty cheap though, so that's positive.
Any suggestions?

>>93996822
will take a good read, specially at the first one. Thanks anon!

>>93996915
A lot of people fearmonger about resin - either because of experiences with people who used it in an unsafe manner, or for trolling. Resin is not something I personally would use without proper setup, but unlike what some people say it is not some major threat to your life and family if you make sure your printer is vented and you cure your miniatures. I had a discussion/argument with another Anon in a thread on /tg/ and I swear they were trying to talk badly about how unsafe resin is and that everyone should buy GW miniatures at MSRP.

tl;dr: Resin is a tool like anything else. Just like you do not play with a gun, you treat resin with common sense and respect and you will be fine.

>>93996133
3 hours for 2000 layers is pretty good. Yeah I'm the same way if its working I really dont want to change to much. At least after getting my settings dialed in.

>>93996944
It's mostly fanboys trying to gatekeep, because they are afraid their hobby (GW) gets hurt by printing. So they make up some bullshit. Some people are genuinely scared by everything too

>>93996322
>no doctor will put UV resin in your mouth.
You're very lucky to have never needed a filling.

>>93996881
Just the standard advice: mix with an ABS-like resin

>>94001307
Or just use abs like resin. There's no need to use standard resins anymore.

>>94002090
standard looks better unpainted, but thats about it.

>>94002090
>>94002337

ABS is too brittle and breaks easily

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Has a resin leak the other day, a. The screen got a thin resin layer on it.
Been trying to scrap it carefully. But there is barely any progress.
Would you recommend something?

>>94003580
wrong but ok
>>93996881
Abs-like, especially newer types like elegoos v3 have some flex to them with thinner parts and higher tensile strength, resin labeled as tough is basically the same thing and if you want a lot of flexibility sirayatec tenacious is pointlessly flexible to where you'll want to dilute it down but it's also usually listed around $44/1kg, also heard elegoos plant based stuff is a bit flexible but I haven't tried it yet

>>94004172
>wrong but ok
lmao, every ABS resin I tried was too rigid and beaks 100% falling from a table, no matter the size of the piece but ok