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This is a general for everything 3D printed relating to /tg/ from sci-fi, fantasy, historicals, fantasy football, and more! Share your printed minis, terrain, print fails, 3d modelling, printing advice, works in progress, or anything else /tg/-related to 3D printing.

>DO:
- Post pics of your prints be they fails or triumphs
- Keep discussion/photos about tabletop games only
- Post your resin/printer/settings for faster advice
- Help your fellow anons with advice

>TRY TO:
- Remember that this general is monitored by Gwendolin and her lawyers
- Not make a new thread until old one dies
- Not encourage namefags, tripfags, fumefags and coomers
- Not spoonfeed
- Not war over Filament/Resin consoles
- Keep your model pics naked (no paint/undercoat only)
- Look after small artists/studios
- Buy something from or tip an artist/studio you like
- Read the last 3 threads before posting

>FAQ
https://pastebin.com/raw/Lv0vvd7d

>Resources
https://pastebin.com/raw/hmSJixAy

>Guides (Install 4ChanX script for better experience)
FDM Troubleshooter: https://pastebin.com/raw/H1en2ghM
Resin Troubleshooter: https://pastebin.com/raw/SbYWdMnC
Resin Safety: https://radtech.org/safe-handling-of-3d-printing-resins/
Printer Buying: https://pastebin.com/raw/1Kfib5YK

https://youtu.be/roAqm5c3rfU
https://youtu.be/koMNXvSlpSs
https://youtu.be/cjDpmh2NQMU
https://youtu.be/xS7h_5di3Tc
https://youtu.be/GL-9Ia0SibQ
https://youtu.be/xw_ClxnJ1_U
https://youtu.be/ZXJQ5vQG0ZA
https://youtu.be/bWUfshO17b8
https://youtu.be/cGAgyRVK32g
https://youtu.be/YMO4Va2vT3Q

>Last Thread: >>94127002
>>
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>>94329706
Asked in the last thread
Does anybody know how accurately 1:1 the Solutionlesn tanks are to their GW counterparts? I got them from the graham cracker app.
I plan to use some third party resin bits to enhance the printed model so it being 1:1 is important to me.
I can't seem to find an image of the GW tank next to the 3D printed tank to confirm 1:1 copied nature.
>>
>>94331009
Sadly have no way to confirm whether or not it's 1:1, but GW's online store has a 3D viewer of the model It's just a bunch of photos taken around the model and you can click-drag around to view different angles.
Unless you mean 1:1 in terms of size and I'm a dumb retard Wouldn't you be able to resize the model if it isn't 1:1?
>>
Best glue to glue down ABS like Resin with?
>>
>>94328723
to that guy, I used to get this kind of errors... mostly ment bad supports and having islands on the print.
that worked for me
>>
>>94325645
Elegoo 2.0 a shit confirmed.
I'll still use what I have (about 4 litres) and mix it in with their ABS-like because it's cheap as shit
>>
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>>94331009
Pulled the image from GW's store. Looks pretty fuckin similar
>>
>>94332444

Understood. I'll work on the supports.
>>
Any anons ever printed a scanned model (either GW or otherwise)? How did it turn out?
>>
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'm the guy who got the mars 4 ultra in the last thread. Holy smokes is this damn thing good. I printed Celestine and some bases from Eternal Pilgrims. I found the whole build plate level and exposure dial in to be pretty intuitive and have gotten great results. I'm a bit surprised that there aren't more scanned vehicles as they would probably be easier to scan. I've been Dabbling in 3d scanning and so far it's been good with even things like kiri engine. Since I'm probably going to 3d print an entire sisters army, How good are the models of the vehicles that are out there, are they true 1:1 or can you tell?

Also What should I set my Anti Aliasing to in Chitubox? I can see slight lines on certain flat surfaces.
>>
>>94331009
I have his salamander insert for the GW chimera kit printed and it fits perfectly into the plastic chassis, so I assume his other stuff matches just as well. When I'm home I will post a pic
>>
>>94336086
The thing with vehicles is probably not that popular to scan because getting completely flat surfaces perfectly scanned is hard, you can see small deviations faster than on an organic shape. Also most of the 40k vehicles are so simple in shape that you could get close with some photos and calipers, so people didn't bother to do all that work just to improve a tiny bit.

About the mars 4 ultra, is there any good reasons for the linux? What can it do thats better than on the basic mars 4?
Yes since its now just 10 bucks more its worth that for wlan alone but I always wondered why, its not like it would have suddenly improved printing like if you used klipper on a FDM printer.
>>
>>94336086
stop posting generic jamesslop pics and start posting prints faggot
>>
>>94332411
CA glue
>>
>>94336332
Will do later today
>>
>>94336359
I'm already using the Loctite Gel control stuff that works great on James plastic and china cast resin but its taking forever to set on sunlu abs like and comes apart kind of easily.
>>
Torn between getting the Neptune 3 Pro or the Bambu A1 mini lads, purely for terrain purposes.
Any pros or cons I should know about before I pull the trigger on the Neptune? The multi-colour printing of the A1 is of zero interest to me.
>>
>>94336868
get a neptune 4, same frame but a klipper brain, so way better speed, reliability and results.
>>
>>94336868
I'm sure this anon >>94336906 is giving great advice but this general is mainly populated by Resin printer owners.(not that they can't also have FDM machines)
So another place to ask that could have more info is the 3d printing general on /diy/.
>>
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>>94336181
pic related, as i said, it fits perfectly.
>>
>>94329706
One of my prints as the OP again?! I'm so internet famous now. This is like the 5th or 6th time. Maybe if other people posted pictures of their prints i wouldn't be so awesome. /s
>>
>>94337492
Nice! I gotta get a printer ASAP.
And thanks a bunch, anon!
>>
>>94337492
>>94338224
Forgot to ask what printer resolution? That looks amazingly crisp.
>>
Anyone have or seen any tasteful yet still a hint of sexy sci fi chicks? Preferably of the gothic human military variety.
>>
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So, how long will this take me to print /3d/bros?
[spieler]Resin
>>
>>94335996
you have to do a bit of cleanup in blender since they always come out grainy and some details look iffy to the point that you think it'll come out like a blob on two legs but its mostly negligible except from the mold lines still left on the model which like i said before needs cleaning up
>>
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So I printed off this Caladius Grav Tank a while back. Assembled and been sitting on my desk waiting to get primed up after I finish the other Grav Tank I've got from elsewhere.

Looked over earlier and it had fuckin' exploded. Looks like the drain holes on the front left nacelle were insufficient. Not a big deal or anything, can just jigger with it and reprint that part, my friend wants the broken one for terrain. But thought you guys would find it cool, and a timely reminder to make sure your holes to off-gas pressure are placed sufficiently.
>>
I'm a bit out of the loop, are a lot of g groups dying? I was looking for some stuff and noticed several groups having messages turned off and "we're killing it" pins
>>
>>94339931
GW sharks have been in feeding frenzy over the fall. Lots of trannygrahm channels had to move also.
>>
>>94339985
The fall? QRD please
>>
>>94340254
fall = autumn in cheeseburgerese
>>
Some times the auto support will clip the bars on the model itself.

what could that be? am I trying to put the model to horizontal?
>>
>>94341823
Check the setting on the supports. you can change the angle that it approaches the model, giving more clearance. If that doesn't work, try using a different program to do support. I like Chitubox.
>>
>>94339985
>>94340254
Preferably answer back in code.
ETSgovO3nTIlMFOxolO3MFOaolOho3ptqTuuqPO0nTHtM3WunTSgVTAlLJAeMKVtnTSmVTMuoTkyow8
>>
>>94338228
Mars 4 Ultra
>>
>>94340319
it called fall because leaf fall down
>>
My mars 2 pro turned up. I've got resin but I don't have anything else yet. I need to find gloves that will fit my babby hands
>>
Does anyone know how to get the STL files that used to be uploaded onto the Trove? I'm looking for some files that were posted there, but only found out today that it's been gone for years now.
>>
Spent all the time replacing the film for my 3d printer, made maybe 10 prints, and now it's got a warped spot again. I fucking hate replacing the film in the tray so much, a million tiny fucking screws.

REEEEEEEE
>>
>>94342596

Grow tent, tube, non-latex gloves, safety glasses, brewer heating belt, a decent metal scraper, a shitload of isopropyl alcohol.

I'd also strongly encourage a wash & cure station when you can afford one.

>>94342836

So many.
>>
>>94342954
>grow tent
that's a good way of getting my door kicked down
>>
>>94342836
You can always buy a new one with pre installed fep
>>
>>94342712
What do you want with ancient files?
>>
>>94343179
I heard the archive was built up in torrents and such, wanted to see if there was anything in there I could use to 3D print a quick army for my friends to try Grimdark Future
>>
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>>94342712
>>94343363
Hey there what is up my fellow anonymouses would someone please direct me to some delicious illegal distribution channels I would like to partake as well and not shut them down I promise
>>
>>94341823
looks like your using photon workshop, other then what anon said about the angles, as a quick fix, just add in more supports near it, in order to get them to branch out, and out of the way of the object, your going to be running into this a lot, so its time to start experimenting with other slicers.
>>
>>94343363
>wanted to see if there was anything in there I could use to 3D print a quick army for my friends to try Grimdark Future
Anon just use tele. Has OPR GF armies super easy to find.
>>
>>94344034
He's using an older method.
>>
>>94344043
Yeah I just realized that lol
>>
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Is there anywhere I can buy EmanG’s great unclean one? Every other proxy I can find in cults3d is just too fat and has no silhouette.
I know GW took his shit down but judging by how popular the Stl was on Reddit there must be lots of people out there with the file.
Pic rel

oh and I recently commissioned somebody with a printer to print me some cool plague toads that will make good beasts of Nurgle. And some night goblins for some gloomspite stabbaz that I partially gave away
>>
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>>94344313
Here are toads and stabbaz. They should be arriving in the mail today.
>>
>>94344313
no one is going to touch emang stuff after james buttfucked him
>>
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>>94344459
The guy I commissioned the prints from actually has 3 different files of that same GUO and is charging me about 20 USD for one. I lucked out
>>
>>94345324
yeah those are emangs, you did luck out
>>
>>94344313
They are out there in the wild anon.

>>94342712
I've also been able to find these files... on an unlikely site that is enemies and the opposite of this one.

>>94336332
There you go son.
>>
forgot the photo
>>
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or can I not post pics now?
>>
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>>94345481
>>94345501
>>
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>>94345506
>>
>>94343132

You can just buy them on amazon.
>>
>>94345506
Holy shit please learn how to prime
>>
>>94346038
its a sisters model, you might as well ask (s)him to learn how to be heterosexual
>>
>>94345714
You are retarded
>>
>>94329706
How do you 3d scan stuff like 40k bits? I've tried RealityScan and Kiri Engine on a mid android and the results are pretty bad. Seems like it's an issue of size. Larger objects like chairs are okay.
>>
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>spend days learning how to optimize my printer
>switch to ABS resin
>fiddle with z-level steps
>run through cones of calibration shit
>carefully adjust lift speed
>new prints take 2x as long and smell fucking awful
>barely any discernible difference to what I shat out on my second print with standard resin and built in settings
>but a discernible difference nonetheless
Worth it.
>>
>>94347754

Have you got pauses? It can be worthwhile to pause at certain junctures to allow everything to re-settle before each curing step.

Also, what are you doing about supports?
>>
>>94342021
EKMypay0nTyhMlOcplOjpzI0qUxtp2AlMKqyMPOuqPO0nTHtoJ9gMJ50VTSmVTy0VUAyMJ1mVUEbLKDtqTuypzHtnKZtoz8tMJSmnJk5VTSwL2Imp2yvoTHtLJk0MKWhLKEcqzHtqT8tqTuyVTqlLJ0tLKDtqTuyVT1ioJIhqP4t
>>
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>>94348392
Not yet. I'm using chitubox poorfag edition. Works perfectly fine so far. I hear UVtools can handle more elaborate timing like that, but I'm not sure when it would be worth it. What's "certain junctures" look like?

Supports chitubox auto-supports. Once I figured out how to turn off the little balls it wanted to add at the end it's been going fine. I like the tiny little rafts it uses, it's much easier to peel off the plate than models printed straight on (pic related).

Also also, what's this code crap people are talking in? I could care less about any GW bullshit since every warham player I've met in my area is an absolute douche, but I don't want to miss out on any good shitposting.
>>
>>94348716

So, I'm on Lychee, what I do is I use auto light supports, then go through and manually add some mediums to solve adhesion issues. I go a bit long on burn in layers, oh no I have to pry a bit more ahh.

Certain junctures is uhhh, so after the plate lowers back into place, giving the resin a second or 2 to settle before curing is a good idea. There's a setting for it but it's called something weird like "exposure delay" or something. You just don't want the resin sloshing or moving while it's being cured.
>>
>>94348716
It's advanced 3d printing memes. No spoonfeeding, but nintendo 64
Or at least it used to be? I can't decode it, the way I normally do

Posting finished model, as I was posting it when I was printing it and building it in the old threads
>>
>>94348716
What's it's called varies by slicer but it's usually wait before cure or rest after retract, 0-1s on smaller printers and 1-2s on larger printers is my go-to
>>
Trying the old process, hopefully I ain't behind the curve.

TmludGVuZG8gNjQgYmFieS4gSGVyZSdzIHdoYXQgSSBnb3QsIEkgZWRpdGVkIHRoZSBsZWdzIGZyb20gYSBjaGFvcyBrbmlnaHQsIHNvIGlmIGl0J3Mgcm91Z2gsIGl0J3MgZHVlIHRvIG1lLgpodHRwczovL21lZ2EubnovZmlsZS9tRWdCblNaSyNxNHVMOG9qQmVBTDh4Q3ZUWTZhZzk2UWVNZTJwQXFkWnZMUkxDMUF1TWhV
>>
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Are there any Artisan Guild file dumps floating around?
>>
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>>94349199
I'll let you know once I search for some thick dragon mommies and have a wank.
>>
>>94349031
Pm9sZCBwcm9jZXNzCm5pZ2dhIHlvdSBhcmUgc28gbmV3IHlvdSBzdGlsbCBoYXZlIHRoZSBuZXdmYWcgc21lbGwuIGx1cmsgbW9yZS4
>>
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>>94349208
I wouldn't blame you if you did.
>>
>>94348855
>>94348985
Oh right, that's called "light off delay" in chitubox. I use 0.5 sec for each layer, but I haven't fucked about with it much. Maybe I will if I start hitting print failures.

For the moment I'm trying to build up enough figures for a game of Frostgrave. I keep flipping between wanting 15mm and 28mm. The latter's more tactile but the former's easier to print and consistent in size - it turns out I get triggered by people giving me 35mm figures and calling them 28mm. I forget to double check before printing it out and it's a fucking giant compared to everything else.
>>
>>94349031
Nice one anon made me feel dumb because I was using the old process and couldn't figure out what I was doing wrong. What you are using is pretty much the newest process. Unless there is an even newer one I don't know about.
>>
>>94349624
Reeeee give me a hint. I used all the online tools and still nothing
>>
>>94351604
If you are trying to figure out the codes posted in this general. go hit your head on on the wall or something. Go lose some brain cells. Try being real stupid and maybe you can figure it out.
>>
>>94349199
Try: 781abdde39259f0c004a501243e175f696a94ae7
>>
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>>94351939
I'm coming up blank on the encoding on this one. Would you hint me, please?
>>
>>94354119
It's a torrent link. Just copy it to your preferred client.
>>
>>94354157
Thanks, I'm retarded.
>>
>>94354582
Don't fret, there's a lot of that going on this week.
>>
>>94329706
>https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/955417766/tower-mall
allow me to shill this humble ks of mine
>>
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>>94356949
I left the pc on for the night but the net dropped for some reason. Let me know if you can continue seeding it, I can keep it going once I'm at 100. I usually seed everything back tenfold, home server running all the time.
>>
>>94358779
It's not mine. I just went looking for an archive, found one, downloaded it to see if it's (hopefully) dophin porn, but it was just a bunch of STL files. Then posted the link. I didn't open any of the files, since I don't have a program nor a printer, so maybe they're 3D files of dolphin porn? But that's a risk someone else has to take. Just keep at it, I'm sure it'll download. It took me a white. I wasn't jacking it to dragon mommies this whole time (this is a lie).
>>
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>>94358540
>basic floorplan
>10 bong dollars
buy a banner faggot
>>
>>94349199
Is nice when they sell the stuff as a package, instead of others that sell the nude and clothed pices at the same price separately
>>
Looking for OPR Jackal stuff. I've dug around a bit and found a small collection of them but it's fairly incomplete. From tranny btw. Anyone help point me in the right direction?
>>
>>94361869
I see 2 collections that are 8 and 10 gb each. Doesn't really show the details on whats in them though but I feel like that would be most of the army. This is on tele.
>>
>>94362052
Where are you seeing these? I see three locations and each one consists of 6 parts, with each being 700 mb and the final being 109
>>
>>94362052
Disregard >>94362145, I never dabbled with tranny long enough to get how to better search for things. Thanks for the breadcrumbs!
>>
can we at least call it blue whatsapp to slow james down
>>
Mars 5 or a Photon mono 4? Or an old Mars 3?
>>
>>94362173
Sometimes you have to not use full names I got way more results just searching Jackals vs OPR Jackals

>>94362251
Saturn Ultra 3
>>
>>94362256
Saturn is too big, would take up too much space.
>>
Tempted to get a P1S as my first FDM printer. I really just want results without having to fiddle with parts and dial in setting much to get prints good enough for terrain and I've heard they're about as retard-proof as they get.
Not counting 3D printed upgrades, anything I should get to go alongside it? I've heard the anti-vibration feet, an extra hotend in a different size, and enough filament to fill the AMS (moreso for the discount, not because I want to print in multiple colors) are all good things to buy.
Anything I missed or anything else I should know? I've heard that the software they use sucks and may or may not be tiktok-tier chink spyware but I've also heard you can jailbreak it or otherwise put CFW on it to avoid those issues.
>>
>>94362251
Mars 4 ultra
>>
>>94329706
For something like this (the gelatinous cube), couldn't you paint a model, leave the bottom hollow, add the painted mode into the hollow part, add liquid resin then put it under a UV lamp to solidify?
>>
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Modelled some custom parts but didn't realise how thin I made some of them, need to redo. But pretty happy with the hammered metal finish.

With the print lines - will using default lychee anti-aliasing and/or reducing exposure time help reduce these?
I'm printing at 20 microns, 3.5s
The shine in pic is just water.
>>
>>94329706
Been out of the game for a few years, is siraya tech resin still the go-to or has it been outclassed?
>>
>>94331009
i am not sure if they are 100% 1:1 but in general parts are supposed to be compatible with the real ones
>>
looking into maybe getting into 3d printing resin, what am i in for and are there any helpful tips, i checked the FAQ but couldnt really see anything that was relevant
>>
With black friday Elegoo is selling the normal Mars 5 and the Mars 4 ultra at the same price. Which one should I get for my first printer?
Also are the wash&cure worth it or are there as good and cheaper alternatives?
>>
>>94365654
>are the wash&cure worth it
I've had one since I started 3d printing and can't imagine not having one. I would say it's worth it.
>>
>>94365654
>Wash & Cure
A plastic bin, a jug of alcohol and a chinese UV lamp (and a rotating platform) do the same job for about $12.

Mars 5 is 4k
Mars 4 Ultra is 9k
easy choice
>>
>>94365654
What do you plan on printing? The mars 5 has some quality of life features (self leveling, even if it’s a bit o a meme at this point) but it has a lower resolution. And, more importantly, the Mars 5 doesn’t support anti aliasing because of some software bug with the .goo file type. This is a dealbreaker if you print rounded stuff imo.
There’s also the possibility that they will fix this issue, but it’s been around since the launch of the mars 4, so…
>>
>>94365346
I did get a printer recently, here's my lessons learned:

Almost any printer but the most basic is fine. The more expensive ones just have a bigger build plate so you can print more shit at once. I got an Elegoo Mars 4 Ultra on the Halloween sale and it's perfectly adequate for 3-4 D&D style minis at a time. A little optimization helps, but the default settings work just fine. On the other hand you'll need to spend at least $100 or so on the resin and cleaning supplies just to get started anyway, so no point pinching too many pennies.

Finding models is much harder than I had anticipated. There's a couple of good eggs dumping their shit on thingiverse and such but most of the field is AMAZINGLY greedy, and thanks to GW's dicklawyering, any troves of stl models are in deep hiding. If there's a game in particular you want models for you'll need to go down that rabbit hole. If there's a genre in particular you like I'm sure you can jury rig a decent miniatures-agnostic army from the "free sample" scraps that people put out. I've gotten a lot of utility from one of the good eggs, DutchMogul, who's doing the kickstarter thing but puts his old shit online for free. He has a fuckton of 15mm figures that can be scaled up to whatever size you want.
>>
>>94365654
Yeah 4 Ultra seems the best choice. Better resolution, bigger print volume. Higher max speed. No reason to get the 5.
>>
>>94365346
You need a place without sunlight and ok temperatures to use the printer.
Printing has gotten good enough that you can't tell by eye, but most scans of models are not that good yet.
Resin and the fumes is bad for your health, how much is a matter of debate, but if you are too young to make choices about your health, you are too young for a printer.

>>94365654
Between those I would go with the mars 4 ultra, the 5 has worse resolution and slightly smaller build volume.
Wash and cure is nothing but a luxury, I print for years with nothing but some pickle jars for cleaning and a UV-lamp for curing when the sun isn't out.
>>
Anyone has ever used non-IPA alcohol for cleaning? I know acetone is also viable but what about etanol made from barley and whatnot? Does it really need to be 99% or is 70% good enough?
The other stuff is so cheap.
>>
>>94365654

Yes a wash and cure station is worth it. That said, this nigga here, >>94365722 is correct, that you can get by with a cheaper option.

But you should get the wash and cure. The reason is this: If you use the nigger-rig setup, the steps are this:
Remove build plate from printer, scrape models off plate, put models into iso, clean the scraper, build plate, surface, etc, anything that any of that came anywhere near.

If you have the wash and cure, it looks like this:
Remove build plate from the printer, put into wash and cure, remove models after. Everything is already clean.

It significantly reduces the amount of bullshit you have to clean by hand, the amount of chance of uncured resin getting places, just in general it makes the process way simpler and less annoying.
>>
>>94365739
>but if you are too young to make choices about your health, you are too young for a printer.
Or use a respirator for particulates and organic vapors.
>>
>>94365752
Not really what you are asking about but I use Mean Green. It's $5 a gallon and works as well as 90% IPA in my opinion.
>>
>>94365752
I use hexane, it's $4 a gallon. Don't use it indoors.
>>
>>94365760
>Remove build plate from printer, scrape models off plate, put models into iso, clean the scraper, build plate, surface, etc
Are you supposed to put the plates in the wash if they are one of those flexible plates that stick to the regular plate? I thought it fucked with the grip.
>>
>>94365752
My first bottle of IPA was a half-empty one I had under the kitchen sink that had expired four years ago. I don't know if it was 70% but it sure wasn't 90% anymore, and everything I washed came out greasy and still coated with resin. Getting a fresh bottled helped a ton.
>>
>>94365837
Was that in a washing station or via brush cleaning?
>>
>>94365752
Don't use Acetone, it can destroy your models depending on the resin.
I use denatured ethanol 95%, it works good. I would not buy under 95%, because if it gets too diluted you get the white stains or wet looking spots. You probably could get away with using 70% for the first wash and a final clean in a small amount of 95+.

>>94365781
>Or use a respirator for particulates and organic vapors.
I would advice most new printers to use them, but only in addition to good ventilation. You can bet that most won't change the filters nearly as often as they need to.
>>
Well, seems file been taken down might as well ask on here, there used to be this rather nice free file on thingverse of some marching and rock throwing ents, I have printed it before to great results but trying to find it again it seems to be taken down, maybe per chance someone has it saved on here for archiving? It was rather nice set and I feel better then some of paid for (and much better then stuff like GW ent models)
>>
>>94365979
Oh, found it on different thing, might archive it elsewhere and share it about
>>
I’m going to use gasoline to clean my models.
>>
>>94365721
>>94365722
>>94365723
>>94365736
>>94365739
>>94365760
Didn't expect so many answers. Thanks yall!
I got the 4 ultra which seems like a no-brainer now that you told me, and decided to still get the wash&cure because it's only 80$ and I'm a dumbass so anything to ease-up processes will help me.
Now I just need to build a printing station so I don't get ultraresin cancer, and hunt for some stl
>>
>>94365818

I dunno I don't use one of those.
>>
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BROTHERS PLEASE HELP
>PRINT FINISHED AFTER 20 HOURS, BUT HE CAME OUT BENT
>base of model (robes) are supposed to be entirely flat at the bottom, instead almost ended super bent
>45 degree angle, .1mm layer, medium auto support, 3 second exposure
I am beside myself at the loss of brother Tymothius, he is deformed beyond use to the Procession and will be martyred but I would appreciate tips to avoid losing further communicants, thank you frens
>>
>>94369962
Looks like you're the victim of shrink. Overcuring is my first guess. Dial in your exposure time.
>>
>>94369962
Post settings anon. A screenshot. Also those supports look super thick to me.
>>
>>94369962
0.1 mm or 0.01mm?
0.1mm is terribly thick, and 0.01mm is probably thinner than your z-axis accuracy, so it won't be better than 0.02mm at twice the time and would probably fuck up the print.
>>
why did no one tell me Mr Surfacer is the goated primer, I will never prime my prints without a self leveling primer again
>>
>>94365732
>the field is AMAZINGLY greedy

debatable, isn't it?
Most of the usual (good) quality stuff on MMF ask for 3-5€ per single hero miniature, some full units of miniatures are around 10.
Its not free ofc, but certainly its far away from "amazingly greedy".

And if you find some creator you like, those 5-10€ per month for their subscription certainly wont break the bank, and you usually get your money worth of miniatures for sure.
>>
>>94372906
Because people don't have the required stuff to use it most of the time (Airbrush, respirator, good ventilation).
>>
>>94372906
It still isn’t high humidity-proof, sadly. I found out the hard way. Although it probably didn’t help that I was priming white on white.
>>
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After some 60 hours of printing I have finished my Falchion
>>
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I would like to use ironbreaker helmets and shields for my votaan, but I cant find a good 3d scan of the helmets. Is it just they aren't popular enough to get a scan, or is it just GW protecting their ip that hard? Even telegram dident have anything.
>>
>>94372906
Common knowledge in /wip/
>>
>>94363345
I'm using my p1s stock and it definitely can print bases, even with a .4mm nozzle.
Orca slicer is the open source alternative to bambu studio but requires you to not be a lazy shithead, which is too much for me.
I'll post a pic of a base later.

I'm wondering where people get files for bases with terrain, most of what I've seen is very simple.
>>
Whats the deal with the fumes and the carbon filters with these modern printers? What exactly are they supposed to remove? They don't do anything to VOCs, which are the worst compound in resin (afaik?), so is it just the particulates that give that nasty smell?
>>
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Printed some little nazgul fellas for my buddy. I like these sculpts a lot.
>>
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Posting my 3D printed Orca for you lads.

>>94376875
They sell comfort to people who don't understand the concept of "parts per million" and PPE. Morons who think handling resin is like handling nuclear waste.
>>
>>94373671
Very cool! Can't wait to see it primed and painted.
>>
>>94376939
might jerk off to that cockpit l8r
>>
>>94376939
$80 of resin, paint and primer you wont get back
>>
>>94376939
the drone docks are so cool
>>
>>94376939
I mean, if you do 3d printing as a profession you absolutely should treat it with utmost care and wear protective equipment as you are in risk of nasty shit like psychorganic syndrome. But as a hobbyist it's unlikely. The worst thing is that you can develop an allergy over time which will make things not enjoyable. And I'm pretty sure those puny little vented cabins don't do anything either. You need industrial-level filtration or (ideally both) respirators if you plan on exposing yourself to industrial levels of resin.
Also, that orca is crazy good. Freehand on the cockpit screen? And what technique did you use for the honeycomb energy shield pattern? Stencil?
>>
>>94377233
Tbf if I cared I am fairly sure I could sell this for more than $80

>>94377634
Screen was freehand though there is one decal on the right. Hex pattern is a stencil.
>>
>>94377717
I've thought about making one of those fuckers I just know I'll never use it
>>
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>>94376944
Got the Tormentor parts printed and primed everything, excited to start painting
>>
I'm looking for the bolter for a chimera hull. The one that goes right in front of the tank.
>>
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>>94365760
I'm so glad I switched to build plate straight to wash station.
This is typical of the mess left after leaving my prints to drip clean(ish) in the printer for 10 mins.
>>
>>94378474
Transformation is nuts.
Is the reason for the different depth of green due to curing amount?
>>
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just bought an anycubic mono 4 what am I in for lads
>>
>>94378765
Why don't you let them drip off for 20+ minutes? Are you running a business so you have to print fast?
>>
>>94379435
Cheap Warhammer armies?
>>
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>>94379451
hell yeah brother
>>
>>94379448
I am somewhat impatient and am housebound through no fault of my own which warrants no further inquiry.
>>
>>94379892
with this I inquire further
>>
>>94379898
I am an almost hikki. Though I did get dragged out tonight only to discover as I got home just now that my print I left going - I left the build plate off.
Will assess the damage in the morning.
>>
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>>94379892
>>94379925
>>
>>94379892
Learn to be patient. Or print during the night. When you wake up in the morning, the plate will be ready and had a lot of time to drip.
>>
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>>94378801
I think it's a matter of light transmission, like you see in jade. thicker parts allow less light through and appear darker.
>>
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>Finally bit the bullet and ordered a printer today
I am become hype
Bringer of excitement
>>
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>Decide to be a lazy pos, and buy a full tray instead of replacing FEP
>Only Mars 5 ultra has trays for sale, not Mars 5 Vanilla.
Well FEP replacement time it is I guess
>>94381442
What did you get anon?
>>
>>94381756
P1S + AMS Combo and the 0.2mm Nozzle
>>
>>94379435
No anti-aliasing and less sharpness than a mars 4 printer. But still very good.
>>
would it be a challenge or a difficulty for the designers of "multipart figures"
(such as those produced by reptilian overlords), to include recesses or depressions in their figures such that they'd be easier to tap/drill for pins or magnetize? (or just have slots already big enough for magnets of a particular size to fit into them printed on the model?
>>
>>94381756
Be a real chad and print your own DLP FEP trays with your FDM printer
>>
>>94378474
Fuck that's so sick. I'm salty as I can't use 30k vehicles in 40k now.
>>
>>94382591
Some do exactly that. Puppetswar comes to mind
>>
looking to upgrade from my old photon 4k, whats gonna be better for display level printing? elegoo saturn 4 ultra or phrozen mini 8ks?

or are they pretty much the same? Ive done a bit of research and seen a lot of praise for the s4u, but a lot of it seems to be more 'great for tabletop quality' stuff.
>>
>>94385597
If you want to beat the photon 4k, go for a Saturn 4 Ultra or a Phrozen 12k. Saturn 4 has a basically identical resolution as the Phrozen 12k. Do the research yourself.

4k:
>Horizontal resolution: 35 μm
Phrozen 8 mini:
>22 µm
Saturn 4: (and Phrozen 12)
>XY Resolution
>19*24um

Problem with some of these is that you're never going to be printing something with details that fine.
>>
>>94385732
The main difference between these is the shaprness of the prints caused by a consistent light diffusion, no?
>>
>>94385743
Not trying to be a jackass, but measure a millimeter, sometime. A nanometer is 1 one millionth of a millimeter. You get diminishing returns rather rapidly when you're talking about improving resolution by 4 of 5 nanometers when you're already down so low into the nm scale. The human eye can only really pick up 100 micrometers of detail to begin with and there's 1000 nanometers in one micron.
>>
>>94385524
any fantasy ranges?
(I'm looking for a good set of mordheim figures; so like preferably something that is German Landsknecht)
>>
>>94386034
magnet ready? not that i'm aware off. But for Landsknecht, you probably should check the Reptilian Overlords sets.
>>
there is a sale on a Elegoo Mars 4 DLP for 274$. is it worth it or should I go for a mono-lcd printer?
>>
>>94386096
Wait for a Mars 4 Ultra during Black Friday. You can wait for 2 more weeks.
>>
>>94386096
>Mars 4 DLP
The Dlp gives you crisp prints of shitty resolution on par with the mars 1.
>>
>>94385777
He's not talking about the resolution, quite the opposite really. He's talking about how well the UV light will "paint within the lines", which is one of the reasons for the diminishing returns as resolution increases.
>>
I don't really have room for a printer. Would it be viable to keep it on a shelf and just put it out on the patio whenever I need to print something?
>>
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>>94391432
Working with highly UV-sensitive material outdoors? I think I can see a potential problem...
>>
>>94391432
If you have a shady area or an enclosure, sure, but I wouldn't let it get direct sun or it'll ruin your resin.
>>
>>94391799
There's a roof but it's fairly high. Couldn't I just put a blackout curtain over it?
>>
>>94391886
might work, yeah, go for it
keep in mind light isn't the only breaker, if your resin's too cold it wont flow the same way as if it was room-temp
>>
>>94391886
I tried this, but then you remove the hood, scrape the print off the plate, etc.
Even ambient light with create a film on your vat, cure on your build plate and ruin prints.
I suggest you keep it covered during the day and process your prints at night.
>>
What are those "bases" that Imperial Guard tank commanders rest on? I'm not sure what they're called but would like to know so I can have an easier time finding STls of them for digital kitbashing.
>>
>>94392249
Cupola?
>>
>>94392259
Close enough, thank you anon! Hopefully this works.
>>
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Thinking of getting a 3d resin printer this Black Friday with GW prices soaring, detail creep on new sculpts, and printable models offering me more freedom and independence in what I paint. I can paint X without buying a whole box of them.

The Mars 4 is $169 on elegoo’s site probably cause of Black Friday. Reviews on YouTube and Amazon recommend the mars 3/4 but they say elegoo has bad QC and customer service. I also think I should get a wash and cure and stations and elegoo also has one for $80, the mercury plus v2 BUT I have not done much research in this area.

There are so many brands out there idk what to get and I’m overwhelmed. In terms of scale and detail, I want to print shit for WH Age of Sigmar and agnostic fantasy miniatures like barbarians, mages, that sort of thing for fun. I don’t like larger sized busts so I’m looking for something that can do wargame-sized miniatures. I’ve saved a treasure trove of ripped GW models and scans from telegram and cults 3d before they got taken down.

Even if I don’t decide to pull the trigger on a 3d printer right now, I would like to know for the future when I do eventually get one. I don’t plan to print big things for diy projects. A great unclean one is maybe the biggest thing I would ever print, for reference.

yes, I read the buyers guide in the sticky and the Mars 3 is in there but I’m not sure if it’s up to date. it’s been over a year since the last updated. It talks about the Mars 2 but we’re already on the mars 5. Also, why is the FAQ weird schizo ranting over /3dpg/ memes and trolling?
>>
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>>94381442 here
YEAAAHHHHHH
>>
>>94392341
What printer did you get? I'm actually surprised that there are 12k resolution printers now.
>>
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Give it to me straight lads, how retard proof are 3D printers now?
I couldn't prevent my airbrush from clogging even if my life depended on it if that gauges how retarded I am.
>>
>>94392433
shit, as easy as draggin and dropping files into a usb stick. Especially if your using presupported models, then you really have nothing to think about.
I think the hardest thing is going to be maintenance when you get a tear in your vat and replacing that, replacing screen covers, cleaning.
Just dont be lazy, a failed print = clean, fix and start over with changes in settings and supports.
>>
>>94392350
dis one >>94381797
>>
Guys is it better to assemble my models in slicer then print them or to print the parts and then glue them?
>>
Sorry for the rather general question: If a group or channel, i dunno how that hamcracker works and what is what, has no files in it then it's safe to say it's been abandoned right? All I see are the members
>>
>>94393231
lines
>>
>>94392433
>even if my life depended on it
Well good news! Printers will need some of that
>>
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>>94392433
Well, good luck...
>>
>>94392292
Don't get the mars 4/5 unless you're fine with voxel lines. They can't use anti-aliasing because the only file format that they accept (.goo) is bugged. Hopefully this will change in the future, but stick with the ultra version of elegoo printers for now. Or maybe even a mars 3. This happens to the Saturn as well.
>>
>>94395800
just do whatever settings your resin bottle says to do
>>
Anyone using Elegoo Abs Like 3.0?
My usual go to is Sunlu Abs like, but Elegoo's black friday 60% off tempt me. So, is the 3.0 worth 10€/kg?
>>
Need a new printer, question is: Is the Saturn 4 ultra worth the money over the normal Saturn 4? Dont need the faster printing speed (mostly print overnight/when at work). Im sceptical about the tilt release. Any opinions? Go for it or safe the money for more resin?
>>
>>94398920
I just got a (ab)used saturn 4 ultra and had to dismantle it to change a screen and remove liquid resin, so I can talk a bit about it.

The tilt mechanism is quite sturdy with a big ass motor, so it has enough power to do its job reliable. From the inner layout, the funnel for the light source is smaller than the tilt plate, so you would need pour a whole lot of resin into the gap for it to reach anything important and it has a grove, so normal spillage should not manage to get farther. Most of the electronics are at the back, and the tilt is towards the front.

The tilt mechanism just makes sense if you think about how you remove something that is stuck by suction. It lessens the pull on your models, makes suction cups less of an issue and should help your FEP live longer. Depending on how much you print, those advantages will soon pay for themselves, or never get close.

So if you don't want the tilt, I would choose the Saturn 3 Ultra instead of the Saturn 4. Bigger build volume, wifi, linux for whatever reason... Only downsides i can see is the old style of hood, no self leveling gimick plate and more expensive ACF.
>>
Anyone have anything from Wargame Atlantic or Maker's Cult? Specifically WWI, renaissance, or feudal guard? I want to give digital kitbashing a try before I commit to buying things and trying to set up a resin printer
>>
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Finally arrived!
I didn't cry yesterday because I didn't get it, nope.
>>
>>94399056
Thank you! When you say the tilt release is riable and there shouldnt be any resin that flows into the machine of you spill a little bit than I get probably get the S4U.
>>
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>>94399170
I did not say it won't enter the machine, it will not reach anything important unless you drowned it.
Here a quick sketch how it looks from the side , the tilt is way more than in real life, but as you can see, if you spilled a bit of red, it will stay in that groove and you can wipe it away from above, if you spilled too much it will get inside and you will want to open it up for cleaning, but it shouldn't drip on the lens.
>>
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Does any one know if there is any titan frame that is compatible with canis rex sprue parts?
I was thinking of getting the battle force box and ebaying the missing sprue but want to print the second titan frame.
>>
>>94399056
>more expensive acf
you can just slap a nfep on there and call it a day
>>94398610
It's ok, it's too flexible for me but its thinner so you can crank speeds up, on my mars4u I was running 300/1000 with no issues but I like sunlu and 2.0 more
>>
Should I just use the elagoo recommended settings for my printer?
>>
How long can you leave a finished print before cleaning it?
>>
>>94399485
Start there, then fiddle with shit if the results aren't what they should be.
>>
>>94399198
Thank you that pictures helps a lot. I feared if the FEP breaks the tilt release would flood the interior.
>>
>>94400099
To be safe, when you think you might have a leak, just use tank clean before lifting the vat. That should close small holes with the cured resin.

I use playing cards to mix the resin when its cold and check if the FEP is flat. They are kind of soft and afterwards you can just throw them away.
>>
Hi Fellow Fa/tg/uys, I've been looking for some 28mm-ish giant rat STLs for rangers of shadowdeep, can you recommed any that are available on trannygram?
>>
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First real miniature print with the printer!
Came out looking nice. Dunno if the picture does it justice. You can see eyes, nose, beard, etc.
Pretty cool
>>
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I haven't touched blender in months but I maybe try to finish this model before the end of the year, yes I know I could download the model and to finish other wips that I have, the panels are a pain in the ass in blender and my references suck too ....
>>
>>94401594
Damn thats cool
>>
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>>94392433
Bought a Neptune 4 pro a few days back and it was easier to put together than a PC, and is more or less plug and play after you've spent 15 mins levelling the bed.
So FDM at least seems fairly retard proof 2bh lad
>>
The light board on my Mars 3 Pro is broken, can't find anyone selling replacements, any of you guys know a place I could find them?
>>
>>94402241
I'm sorry
>>
Do i need to get a screen protector?
>>
Does anyone have RM009 RM010 or RM027?
>>
>>94402396
Chitu Systems
>>
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>>94396523
thanks. besides that what's the biggest difference between an "ultra" and a regular mars.

and what am I losing out on for getting the mars 3 vs the mars 4 ultra? the mars 3 is about 40 bucks cheaper than the mars 4 ultra which would help me get a wash and cure station and start-up materials.
>>94402241
>>94399056
>>94398920
If I was shopping for an elegoo printer, where are the best places to buy from? I live in east asia and amazon supposedly ships to me for free if the order exceeds a certain cost. I can also use elegoo's site but other than that where should I be shopping around?
>>
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>>94404529
NTAs but I get my elegoo resin off eBay where it’s often 3 litres for the price of 2.
I always mix this with the ABS-like because the standard is dogshit by itself
I have the monthly eBay plus subscription which pays for itself with discount coupons every month.
Australia btw
Picrel works out to $35USD for 3L
>>
>>94404574
Oh forgot to say, got my elegoo printer off eBay too. I got like 17% off (didn’t want to wait for one of their regular sales).
>>
Can anyone help me out figuring out the new coding method in Nurgle?

N pehzo?
>>
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Does anyone know for sure what causes these lines to appear?
>>
>>94405273
How is the line oriented? Is it parallel to you layers, perpendicular to them...
>>
>>94405293
It's parallel and it rarely happens
>>
>>94405302
parallel means either shifting due to not enough supports or suction cups, or your screw is real bent at that height, but if it only happens rarely it wouldn't be the screw.
>>
Also posted on /diy/:
Looks like the "black Friday sales" are gonna be 400 for a Saturn 4 ultra vs 5 for a gktwo. Now that the gktwo has been out awhile, has it held up? I can imagine the tilt release of the Saturn being nice, but I have read some teething problems so I was curious how any of you feel, this would be an upgrade from a Saturn 2
>>
>>94403401
Has been pretty gud so far 2bh lad, obviously only terrain I wouldnt try get miniatures out of it, I get all my minis from recasters
>>
>>94407298
I have a 4 plus and knew a couple of maxs, we all had an issue with it slowly losing level constantly and the z offset going up so check your shit every time you flip the power switch or leave it on if you're printing frequently
>>
>>94358540
It’s cool, no bathrooms or main food court so more like a strip mall.
>>
What's wrong with water washable resin?
>>
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after reading through the thread I'm thinking of getting the mars 4 ultra and the mercury v2 W&C.

unfortunately they don't ship to south korea where I live so I might have to dish out another 70$ to have it all shipped from the USA. I'm going by net weight. the total is about 12 kilos. I could look into buying here, but I doubt it would be cheaper based on the black friday deals on elegoo's site. I found some other korean online retailers but I'm getting charged more for just the printer.

besides those 2 machines, what else do I need? besides IPA what kind of resin of should I get and where? I want to print miniatures fo gaming and painting. I assume my airbrush mask won't be enough PPE and I should get some special filter or mask. I have a cut-off room away from my bedroom with a big window (it's getting really cold here). I figure I may as well get it all shipped together in the same order to save a little bit of cash.
>>
>>94399145
why not resin? why not A1? what are you planning to print?
>>
>>94410462
Half face respirator - go 3M they’re comfy
Silicone spatula (checking FEP after failures and for stirring resin)
Box disposable gloves
Rolls of paper towels
Silicone tray (easy to clean drips - just leave it out in daylight) or newspaper
Got a wash + cure station?
>>
>>94410509
Just now see the W&C.
Get a big bucket for when you need to empty and clean your wash station.
>>
>>94407924
I see, do you reckon its a mechanical or firmware issue?
>>
>>94410518
why a bucket? I have a walk in shower that I dump my dehumidifier water into. i'm not sure what cleaning it entails, so would doing any cleaning in my shower be stupid?
>>
>>94410327
Nothing really.
>>
>>94392249
They don't rest on anything. You glue them to the cupola from below.
>>
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>>94410500
>why not resin?
I don't like the smell and the possibility of making a mess because of spilling resin turns me off of it. idc about incredible details. I just want to print some minis, paint them and play with friends
>why not A1
I was thinking of getting the A1 first but watching a few videos on YouTube I decided to get the P1S (closed case was a big selling point) and with the Black Friday deals it was an OK price
>what are you planning to print?
Customized stuff for my home projects (for example I've the idea of shelves in between the support beams of my stairs), miniatures and terrain

pic related was yesterday's test with Support PLA and basic PLA on the .4mm nozzle. (i broke too many pieces off as I was freeing it from the supports, I still have to learn shit)
imo pretty fucking cool

I have a .2mm nozzle on the way but I don't know when it will arrive
>>
>>94410722
well the quality isn't that bad but those chewed up edges are just too rough for me

hopefully plastic becomes the norm one day
>>
>>94410722
man that doesn't look very good, I'll wish you the best of luck but I couldn't live in your world
>>
>>94410327
>What's wrong with water washable resin?
I don't like it. It's noticeably more brittle than standard or ABS resin, and although it smells better, the smell is more pervasive. Just having some in the tray will stink up the whole room even with the cover on.
>>
>>94410536
Both, bed loses level because the springs aren't great so silicone spacers are a good upgrade at some point, but the z offset is something fucky in the firmware. On the plus side it's such a common problem that if you get a blob of death you can just email support and get a new hotend without a headache.
>>94410327
eventually you have to evap and cure what's in your wash basin and water evaporates slower than alcohol
>>
>>94411729
Thats unfortunate, but if I can print more terrain than I could have bought for £170 before I need aftermarket/replacement parts I'll call it a win.
>>
>>94331009
would be cool
>>
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Do (you) think these could sell as regular guardsmen?
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>>94415872
I didnt mean to post that here but whatever
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First time i get this kind of error, where the layers did not hold or something, kind of weird.
>>
>>94416300
I get that when I get greedy and cram too much on the build plate. All it takes is a layer or two where the resin doesn't quite fill in completely and it all goes to shit from there.
>>
Is there some problem with using AA on a mars 4 ultra? How much should I use?
>>
>>94415872
Those look nice but the aesthetic is all over the place.
>>
>>94416300
Use a non-solid infill and try reducing your print speed.
>>
>>94415872
Why not? Some kind of fancy semi-feudal world might think this is how a soldier should be equipped.
But isn't it a single model by Rep. Overlords?
>>
>>94417109
>>
Will a printer leave residue on everything in the room i'm putting it in? Like a dust settling on everything?
>>
>>94416744
the goo file type has been fucky forever and probably won't get fixed, AA only works with ctb files and while I haven't tried it allegedly aa 0 image blur 2 is the best middle ground for clarity while smoothing voxels
>>
>>94417339
If you are not careful, you are coung to leave a ton of resin o the table, and it will be sticky and probably toxic
>>
>>94417150
Ah, nice. I'm not following his discord, but thats good.
>>
Anyone got their hands on a Mars 5 Ultra or maybe the Saturn 4 ultra? It’s going down to around $240 in the Black Friday and I’m pretty tempted to get one…
>>94416744
You need to use .ctb files. They only work via wifi.
>>
>>94420663
I've got one on the way.
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>>94404529
>what's the biggest difference between an "ultra" and a regular mars
Not much. The 4 prints faster, has a metal frame and wifi that allows you to use .ctb. The 5 has the tilting vat (which makes prints a lot faster and reduce failures without coping with an ACF film, it’s a whole thing) and a mostly useless in-cabin camera. I think having AA is more important than either feature, personally, but I’m just an amateur.
>and what am I losing out on for getting the mars 3 vs the mars 4 ultra?
The main thing will be quality and convenience. The mars 3, being a 4k printer, is when the industry entered the diminishing returns in terms of resolution but there’s still less quantifiable qualities like print sharpness that a mars 4/5 will perform better because of the backlight and things like that. It also has the older model of build plate which is a bit less stable and other small things like that. If you just want a decent printer that will allow you to have a believable warhammer army, the mars 3 is more than capable of delivering. Another thing to look out for the mars 3 is spare parts. Those screens only last so long and the parts will eventually disappear from the market or get prohibitively expensive.
Also, the mars 4 line comes with a filter. The new line has the slot for it but you need to buy it separately. Personally I think it’s pointless health-wise and you should just wear a mask but it supposedly reduces the smell quite a bit.
>>
>>94420680
Hopefully it arrives before the end of the month and you get to tell us your impressions, then. You brand new or are you upgrading from something else?
>>
Can I request some KDM KIngdom Death Monsters STLs? Pretty Please!™
GENERIC ELF
HOSPITALAR
Sylvania
Twilight Knight
Black Friday Ninja|

I know I shouldn't ask but I'm trying something.
>>
>>94420788
I'm brand new so it won't be an expert opinion but I should get it by the end of the week.
>>
>>94420929
Only saw 1 of those on tele but there seems to be a fair amount of KDM. I'm not familiar with the minis so wouldn't really know though.
>>
>>94420999
Characters or dungeon parts?
>>
>>94421295
Bit of both
>>
I think I'm gonna order a heygears on black Friday bros... They finally fixed the online only slicer and 3rd party resins are getting mapped to their proprietary ones. How terrible of an idea is this?
>>
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>>94422609
Just cross your fingers they don't try and close the ecosystem again.
>>
>>94420771
While the 3 is not a bad printer at all, the 4(ultra) is cheap enough these days, especially during sales, so I would not bother with a mars 3 any more.
>>
Has anyone been able to make an STL of these chumps? I love the old models like you wouldnt believe.
>>
>>94424047
>pic didnt attach
Fuq
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>>94419192
I'm not worried about spilling it as much as I'm worried about things settling on carpet/models and whatever and ruining it.
>>
>>94424073
You should probably vent your printer with sufficient extraction.
Me? I live by the ocean and my house is a wind tunnel. I print with the back room open.
>>
>>94424051
>>94424047
no because they're copyrighted IP belonging to © Games Workshop Limited
you would never find such content here, unlike some telegram channels dedicated to illegal miniature plastic figurines files
>>
>>94424089
>you would never find such content here
Yeah, I know. I was just wondering if peeps here would know if there was a maker out there that did or at least knew where I could find something similar. I fucking despise the newer models.
>telegram channels dedicated to "illegal miniature plastic figurines files"
lol

Ok what hints can you give to find such channels?
>>
>>94424174
>Ok what hints can you give to find such channels?
Can anyone explain why even attempting to use ANY inbuilt search function is some type of crime against their own humanity. Anon clearly laid out an avenue for you to find these things on your own and you still need just a little more spoon feeding. It's fucking ridiculous. Go out on limb and try something without someone holding your hand.
>>
What kind of neat hobby accessories did you guys print? I'm looking for some other ideas besides minis
I'm currently printing the parts of the painter's fortress
And I printed a holder for miniatures
>>
>>94423429
It sure as hell isnt cheap outside of the US. It's almost the same price as a band new Mars 5 Ultra.
>>94424174
Bro I found all the channels on my own long ago without any spoonfeeding. Why can't you retards do some simple research? Every /tg/ post is archived. If you can't find your way into the inner circle with this information you have failed the IQ test required to enter.
>>
>>94426100
Zoomers and vaccines
>>
question.
Does the superglue work better once the model is cured or before curing?
>>
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Rise from your plate
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>>94428786
Nice peeling.
>>
New printer waiting for me at home, should get home tomorrow. Pretty hyped anons.
>>
>>94426601
>/tg/ not spoonfeeding
I don't believe it
>>
>>94426601
>It sure as hell isnt cheap outside of the US

250 is not exactly expensive either.
Mars 3 is 200, and Mars 5 Ultra is around 300.
They all are reasonably cheap in my eyes (and the sales haven't even started yet)
As i said, with only 50€ price difference between 3 and 4, i would take the 4 over the 3 every day, even if money is tight. (if its really tight, a 3d printer should not be a priority purchase anyway)
The upgrade from 4 Ultra to 5 Ultra is less important, but its also not "that" expensive at 300.

All 3 printers however are perfectly capable of printing wargaming sized miniatures.
>>
>>94329706
I'm interested in starting to 3d print my armies. How do you guys deal with fumes? I don't want cancer.
>>
>>94430766
Open your window
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>>94430766
>How do you guys deal with fumes?
There are several ways people do this.
-Put it somewhere you can vent real good, like a shed
-Enclose it in something and pump the air out to a window
-Use Respirators or filter masks
-Use Air filter devices
-Hold your breath next to the printer
-Do nothing, not everyone will get sick, right?
>>
>>94430766
The more I read the more I'm realizing that the fume issue is exaggerated.
>>
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>>94426601
>>94423429
thank you for the rundown. I decided to get the mars 4 ultra while it's on sale. and yes I am paying a lot for a 3rd party to ship it to me.

before I buy a mars ultra 4, what resin should I buy that i can get from elegoo or amazon? I am buying a wash and cure station too. I have a single filter mask that I use for airbrushing. Do I need a special filter or should I spend the 25$ and just get a new better mask that is resin-sage? I have a room with a big window and a sliding door that I can put the set up in. Will cold affect my prints at all? It's around 40 degrees out here most days and it will snow soon.

Does the color change anything? i'm going to paint the stuff i print and while I see some people print in red or blue candy colors I don't mind grey or white. And with a wash an cure, how much IPA will I need?

Any help is appreciated bros I'm trying to save on bulk shipping and get free shipping on things from amazon. I also don't want to wait any longer.
>>
>>94430550
>>94426601
Just saying, its 170€ on the elegoo website right now. Mars 3 is not sold any more.
>>
>>94431362
>what resin should I buy that i can get from elegoo or amazon?
Sunlu abs-like is good and cheap, but with black friday deals you can maybe get a deal from someone else. I just got 3*2KG abs like from elegoo for 50€.

>Do I need a special filter
Yes you need a special filter, and replace it after a few weeks, so getting a new mask should not be necessary if you can get those filters for your current mask. Something against volatile organic compounds.

>Will cold affect my prints at all?
Yes, below 20°C every resin gets a bit more unreliable, some more than others. At those temperatures resin becomes thicker and curing takes longer, but with heaters you can counter that.

>Does the color change anything?
Some colors have pigments that absorb some of the UV-light, so to cure the same brand of resin you have to change your curing times slightly.



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