>>94661912
Okay friends, it's time to link the Trench Crusade STL files. It's Christmas.

>Fell for the resin Meme
>every print has one or two failure that fall off of the supports
>doesn't matter if it's presupported or autosupported
>HURR YOU JUST NEED TO SUPPORT BETTER
>HERE JUST PRAY AND HOPE ALL STARS ALIGNED FOR SUPPORTS TO WORK
>Didnt work? Better clean up again and learn this obscure bullshit science of adding supports
Oh yeah let me put so many fucking supports on it I can't see the fucking details anymore

The YouTube niggers and you faggots can suck a fat dick
>HURR RESIN IS THE WAY TO GO FOR MINIS
>pain in the ass to clean up
>failed print? Yeah you gotta clean everything again, that tank clean function is useless
>Resin smell stuck to everything
>that film at the bottom? Yea if that breaks resin will leak into the machine :) it's just the way this bullshit tech works but don't worry we won't even add any sensors that will detect a possible danger for the film! just buy a new printer bro :^)
>Slicer software is fucking garbage
>"Bro trust me buy our pro version to do the shit you need to do"

But nooo "It's so easy bro believe me you just suck at it"
IF ITS EASY EVERYBODY SHOULD BE ABLE TO DO IT YOU ENORMOUS FAGGOT
Meanwhile with FDM printing
>take model
>throw in slicer
>autosupport
>print
Works
Every fucking time
Incredible!

Fuck you resin niggers I hope you choke on resin

I am looking for proxies for arcanite reapers. preferably arcanite reapers themselves. they look fun to paint but a box of 10 looks like cancer

here are some scans of the new scout kill team
https://gofile.io/d/kmSEuh

>>94662757
>arcanite reapers

My bad, meant to say kairic acolytes from AoS.
(i've been playing too much WoW)

>>94662699
It is a poor craftsman that blames his tools . . .

>>94662699
>puts in half assed effort
>receives half assed results
We'll see how you feel about FDM the first time literally anything goes wrong with your machine, which you probably spent a lot of money on

>>94662699
>pain in the ass to clean up
Tiny bit of searching would have warned you about that beforehand
>failed print? Yeah you gotta clean everything again, that tank clean function is useless
What failures do you get that curing a solid sheet that you simply pull off the fep doesn't work?
>Resin smell stuck to everything
Everyone warns about that, why do you think good ventilation was something you have to have, or did you not even read that much about printing?
>Slicer software is fucking garbage
Which one? Lychee works great at the free level.

Your whole story sounds like somebody that did not watch any how to-s or read about printing before buying a machine. Thats great for people like me, buying those slightly used machines for cheap off people like you and printing fine with them.

anyone have a review or experience with the creality halot r6, it and and the cure station are on sale for a good price in my 3rd world shithole and i'm trying to find some reviews.

>>94662699
>>every print has one or two failure that fall off of the supports
User problem

>doesn't matter if it's presupported or autosupported
user problem

>>HURR YOU JUST NEED TO SUPPORT BETTER
No retard, but your settings probably suck. If thousands print a presupported file without issues and it falls off the supports at your machine, guess who does something wrong?

>HERE JUST PRAY AND HOPE ALL STARS ALIGNED FOR SUPPORTS TO WORK
Not the supports need to "work". Your other settings should.

>Didnt work? Better clean up again and learn this obscure bullshit science of adding supports

Change temperature, lift speed, burn in layers.. Just adding more supports when everything else sucks is retarded.

>Meanwhile with FDM printing
>take model
>throw in slicer
>autosupport
>print
>Works

Literally the same thing works with resin, if your printer is set up properly. If presupported stuff fails, your settings are off. Simple as that.

>>94662699
>i have skill issues: the post

>>94662699
>>Resin smell stuck to everything
This one I can address: most of the smell probably isn't coming from the tank, but residue left on your cleaning area. If anything is sticky to the touch, that's resin. It's not going to dry out, you have to cure it. Get a cheap UV light and bake your cleaning station. You'll cut down on the smell considerably.

I have a 50 dollar gift card for heroforge. Should I download some STLs of post apocalyptic gunmen I made as well as the arquebusiers I've made since I can't find any decent ones at 28mm? If I'm gonna pay for STL anyway I might as well be able to customize them. All my friends have gotten multiple heroforge miniatures and at least half of them have broken. At least of the colored plastic ones.

Also: would there be any point to trying to model pic related and print it? It'd be on a 3x3 inch base and I could just find some sword arm and head models, sculpt a base mesh, then export it to an STL to make it into one mesh after copy pasting a bunch of heads and arms in various poses. Then printing it would be the hard part.

>>94661912
>get mars 2 pro
>research settings for chitubox
>amalgamate all suggestions into my settings
>keep randomly failing prints, but not the entire print its always just random minis and other parts will print fine
>????
>messing around with trying to squeeze as many models as physically possible on plate on chitubox
>accidentally flip plate upside down
>everything has a green base except 1 or 2 models
>realize sometimes for whatever reason models arent flush with plate when imported (presupported), causing them to fail guaranteed
>make sure all models are correctly seated on plate
>fails reduce drastically
Id imagine printing presupported is less common but maybe theres someone out there thats missed what I have too

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>>94667205
Forgot pic

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>obvious ragebait/bad faith retardation getting more replies than actual inquiries/opinions

>>94667781
>>94665550

When given the option, do you prefer having your files presupported, or would you rather do the supports yourself? Why/why not?

I personally prefer making the supports myself, as i've ran into quite a few makers who i think just clicked autosupport and called it a day, and broken a fair few parts during cleanup due to that.

>>94668180
Entirely dependent on who does the pre-supporting, as you said some creators suck at it. I am not even sure how they do suck at it, auto-supports do like 90% of the work so all you have to do is know how to do the other 10%.

Is it conceivable for resin to ever be strong enough to make more than decorations?

>>94668180
presupports have been pretty great for me, always work and well hidden

>>94668180
I like good presupports, but many of them are bad or use that shitty raft thats a sucction cup.
Also scaling is an issue, those supports only work at the scale the creator intended, and I often need it at other sizes.

So I need unsupported files and I like supported ones in addition to that. And I hate it when they inflate the file size with slicer files.

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>>94668180
I always print presupported, simply because i am a lazy fuck and i trust a "professional" more than myself when it comes to this.
In 90% of the cases i dont even bother to download something that is not pre-supported, especially if i am to spend money for it.
The less i have to deal with the printer, the better for me. I just want to get some miniatures to paint and play games with, not fiddle around with the machine or its software, so its always the easy and lazy solution for me.

>Also scaling is an issue, those supports only work at the scale the creator intended

Might be true for some, but its certainly not a rule. I've printed pic related guys at 175%, and the presupports worked just as they do at 100% size. (its 40mm bases btw)

>>94668339
>Also scaling is an issue, those supports only work at the scale the creator intended, and I often need it at other sizes.
I'm tired of "28mm" models that turn out to be 40mm tall.

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First time printing stuff and now that I probably did every rookie mistakes I got some questions.
-Once the print is done is there an easy way to remove it from the platform? I used the plastic scrapper but it felt rough
-Do you need to remove the resin droplets from the figure before putting it in the washing machine or is it fine? And if you do should you use a dry wipe or something with ethanol?
-I have a wash&cure but they don't really say how long I should wash it, I did 2 min but should it be way longer/shorter and is there a risk to wash it too much/not enough?
-Once it's washed do I need to remove the IPA/ethanol before curing it or is it fine?
-Once cured is it ok to use bare hands to manipulate it or do I need to let it cool down first?
-I kept it on its support the whole time, is it ok or am I supposed to remove them before?

>>94662699
Brand new to resin printing and i've literally never had a fail. Massive skill issue

>>94668268
Some abs like resin is so strong fresh out of the printer that you can straight up bend it in half and it won't break.
Loses a lot of that strength when fully cured though.

>>94669000
>Once the print is done is there an easy way to remove it from the platform? I used the plastic scrapper but it felt rough
Get a good metal scraper, one that has a chiseled edge. Forgot where I got mine from but it was probably Walmart.
>Do you need to remove the resin droplets from the figure before putting it in the washing machine or is it fine? And if you do should you use a dry wipe or something with ethanol?
This one is hard to answer as I do not use a washing machine. That said I would recommend getting as much resin off as you can before hand so that your alcohol goes further. Maybe consider getting a spray bottle with alcohol in it for this purpose.
>I have a wash&cure but they don't really say how long I should wash it, I did 2 min but should it be way longer/shorter and is there a risk to wash it too much/not enough?
I will leave this to others to answer as I do not have a wash and cure.
>Once it's washed do I need to remove the IPA/ethanol before curing it or is it fine?
I pat the stuff dry to wick up the majority of the alcohol and then let the rest dry (takes like two minutes) before curing. Not sure if it helps but I feel like it does.
>Once cured is it ok to use bare hands to manipulate it or do I need to let it cool down first?
It shouldn't be enough different in temperature to need to cool down . . . but yes after curing it is safe to handle immediately.
>I kept it on its support the whole time, is it ok or am I supposed to remove them before?
I remove the supports prior to curing, but with a wash and cure that may be difficult sometimes. They are much easier to remove pre-curing but you can do it post if necessary (like if you have an itty bitty bit).

>>94669056
>Get a good metal scraper
oh how much I hate that noise when pushing the scraper along the bed to get my prints off

>>94669083
I think they are referring to resin, if you are hearing a significant noise when scraping your build platform you are probably using a bad scraper. Mine just slides under the rafts like butter.

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>>94669056
Thanks a lot! This'll help for the next prints.
The box (mars 4 ultra) also had a metal scrapper but I was scared of damaging the plate, but I guess it's fine

>>94669143
The plate works better if it is a bit scratched up so no concern there (just don't gouge it). The plastic scraper is for your fep, if you have torn it up trying to use it on the build plate I would recommend getting a new one of those as well so you don't scratch your fep.

>>94669129
Both resin and FDM it just that metal on metal sound makes my skin crawl

>>94669177
You shouldn't really be hearing a noise on the build plate though, the resin acts like a grease and a sharp chisel bladed scraper should just slide under the rafts.

>>94669000
>trips of noob

>I used the plastic scrapper but it felt rough
Use a metal scraper. Plastic is for the film at the bottom of the tray. Wedge the scraper between two of those corners and use that as leverage to lift up one and get underneath the raft, that'll get it off without doing much damage to the platform. Even so, it's durable as shit, don't worry too much about it.

>is there a risk to wash it too much/not enough?
Too much - no. If you soak something overnight (like forget to take a mini out of the wash) it'll absorb the IPA and inflate like one of those dinosaur egg toys, but a couple minutes more or less won't hurt.
Not enough - won't get off all the uncured resin. Prints will be shiny and fine details will be lost. Otherwise, no, no problem

>-Once cured is it ok to use bare hands to manipulate it
Resin isn't the toxic turbocancer some anons here assert it to be. Use gloves when cleaning the model, then it's fine to pick up. If it's sticky it needs more curing. If your hands are sticky, wash them with soap after.

>-I kept it on its support the whole time, is it ok or am I supposed to remove them before?
I cure before removing supports, it helps them snap off with less damage to the model. For fragile models you may want to get them off first.

Experiment for what works with your prints. Use cheap resin and fail a lot until you know what you're doing.

>>94669198
>e?
>I cure before removing supports, it helps them snap off with less damage to the model
What? Post one of your prints, i want to see if they're as pockmarked as i think they are.

>>94669424
They look like Deadpool on a bad hair day. I don't have the patience for carefully cutting away supports, so I angle shit so's they're on the bottom of the bases and pop them off in one go. If there's a better way of doing it, I'm all ears.

>>94669776
If you insist on doing them post-cure you may want to try soaking them in warm water first, could help. Really the best thing to do is to just do them during the cleaning process rather than try to do it after they are cured.

>>94668268
"Resin", whether we're talking about the light-sensitive stuff used in our 3D printers or things like two-part epoxy used for regular casting, is just a highly everyday word for thermosetting plastics. And there's nothing about that which demands that it'd be weak or brittle, hell, just look at the range of different 3D printer resins and you''ll see that there's considerable room for varying material properties there. Now you probably won't ever get anything that's as hard and strong and heat-resistant as steel sicne that's well outside the range where plastics tend to live, but as long as you stay within largely normal levels for plastics it's entirely possible that someone will invent a UV-setting "resin" with just about whatever properties you're hoping for one day. Just keep in mind that it may take anything from a few years to well past your natural lifespan for that to happen.

>>94669831
Even pre-cure you should dip them in hot water, my supports literally just pop off with barely any pressure.

>read that its OK for support of a model to overlap with supports of another model
>model goes from a nice healthy grey to a bright OH SHIT YOURE DOING IT WRONG red
>can fit like twice the models this way, but it feels illegal
Im about to try a print where all the supports overlap for the first time… how badly is it going to fail?

>>94669856
Think it just depends on your cleaning process desu, mine naturally has a heated water phase (in terms of the ultrasonic cleaner) but before incorporating an ultrasonic cleaner I only did that for models with a lot of thin bits where I needed all the help I could get.
>>94669857
It could be pretty hard to get the supports off that way. They are going to go from thin twigs that break if you look at them wrong to mighty oaks that mock you and your clippers. I wouldn't bother trying to cram that much on a build plate, one day you will look back on it and realize how many days you just had the printer sitting there doing nothing anyway.

>>94664318
I know when I got my Photon 3S, none of my presupported models would print without collapsing somewhere, but the second I re-supported them with a thick raft, they came out just fine. It's probably an issue with the resin he's using, since I've only had the issue with the high-speed stuff bundled with my printer, but it's also kinda hard to figure out when he'd rather complain than ask for help.

>>94667208
My stock settings put a multiple-millimeter gap between the plate and the base of the supports, everything worked after I adjusted that. Could be the same thing, I didn't try any manual adjustments of the model itself, just support gen settings.

>>94669905
I guess, i've got a wash station, so i do two rounds of ipa-washing followed by a swirl in the hot water and pull the supports off. Haven't had pockmarks for two or three years now.

>>94669946
I get pretty good results with using only a tiny amount of alcohol in a baggy with the ultrasonic cleaner. First I hit it with LAs Totally Awesome then put that and the model in the ultrasonic cleaner (water and leftover LAs). Then I take that out (this is where I would take supports off if needed) and put it in a baggy with isopropyl and put back in the cleaner. Gives pretty good results and I use way less isopropyl nowadays. We have pretty similar methods, just the order is a little different :).

>>94669857
Ilhadiel includes ready-to-print chitubox files packed full of models. They're good examples of what you can get away with.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5405890

gonna get me a Saturn 4 Ultra I think. anything you guys recommend buying besides what comes in the box and obviously some resin?

>>94670208
Is it going to be your first printer?

Anyone have Fat dragon presets pdf on hand?

>>94670641
https://files.catbox.moe/iupigt.zip

>>94670738
Hell yeah, thanks man!

I'm printing my own pile of shame
Somebody stop me

>>94672347
For real you should stop. Nothing demotivates you more than having a massive pile of shame, I have made that mistake so many times, now that I am making progress I only have at most two units (i.e. a tank or a squad) that I am not actively working on getting painted up and I am making more progress than I have in over a year.

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Gonna borrow a printer this weekend to print some terrain for 40k, I'm just checking out the software etc. I know it's a process that takes a lot of time but 27 hours for only the bottom part of a building is too long isn't it?
It's a Creality Ender 3 V2 I think, so that's what I set it up as.

>>94672852
Seems a bit long, but not crazily so. You are printing about a fifth of a spool of filament, that is a fair bit.

>>94672852
Nah thats normal for .2mm, try changing to a bigger layer height. Took me 2 weeks to print out a life size pulse rifle in pieces on my ender 3.

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>>94672888
>>94672887
Thanks for the input, I suppose I'll be borrowing it for a very long while till I get enough terrain pieces for small sized combat patrol games. This one for only 10bux has enough for even 1000pts games I believe.

>>94672957
Dont forget to factor in filament, that'll probably take at least 1.5 rolls so you're looking at roughly $40. Still a lot better deal than buying GW though.

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>>94672985
They're probably of high quality but I'm not going to spend about 300 dollars minimum on a Sector Imperialis that is made-to-order and will deliver in 6 months. Till then, it's a grid-shaped tablecloth with tupperwares and metallic tea boxes. Thanks guys, I'll be posting the results once I start.

>>94672957
Good luck anon, my recommendation is if you plan on printing the whole set anyway is to start with the smallest piece you can. That way if you have print failures you waste very little filament. Oh and borrow/buy some hairspray, you will thank me later.

>>94662699
>Resin smell stuck to everything
You're a flailer. Resin printing isn't for flailers. Your brain gatekeeps you from printing amazing minis, enjoy your life rolling around in the mud and feces with the rest of the FDM plebs.

Did Fundgo go out of business?

I'm needing to get a new fan for my enclosure unit but everything they had listed on Amazon is now unavailable, and every fan I can find on Amazon is 3" instead of 4".
Does anyone have any recommendations? Not really sure what I should do right now.

Also, in general, I might just be retarded, but I need the fan because I saw someone once put a 2nd fan on their enclosure to take clean air from the room and suck it into the enclosure filled with the resin air I'm pumping out the window. Before I put money into this, is that a good idea or am I just a retard? I can't find videos of other people doing that now that I'm trying to look into it again.

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>>94672957
Been doing that textured rattle can on mine. It looks pretty solid and fills in later lines nicely.

Anyone have Flatline City 2 or 3?

>>94672765
thanks bro
You made me assemble and prime all the models I have so far
currently only allowed myself to print bases for the models

>>94675609
>You made me assemble and prime all the models I have so far
Holy based.
Be the change you want to see.

I haven't been into printing in a few years but I just got a new printer for Christmas.

Is the Samuel Morse app the best place to find stl's still or has it been surpassed by someplace else?

>>94675609
>>94675757
>>94672765
For real guys maybe it's the Christmas spirit or maybe I'm getting more sentimental with age but these posts inspired me too.

best ways to recycle used IPA/remove uncured resin from wash IPA?

>>94676737
Probably decanting it, I use to use a turkey baster for this purpose when I used a lot of alcohol. You need three containers for this, one that is filled with old stuff, one that is filled with mostly new stuff, and an empty third one to decant the old stuff from to become the new "new stuff".

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Bros I took the twin goddesses pill. Time to coom.

Can anyone give me some recommends for heads that have either gas masks/respirators and/or hoods? I am struggling to find any and wanna make a guard kill team

>>94679591
station forge probably has some.

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>>94677072
Very cool. But small, gonna be tough to paint. Printing some at 120mm and 75mm scale next.

>>94662757
This isn't a scan mate.

https://www.elegoo.com/pages/satellite-3d-slicer
Anyone tried this slicer? Is it any good?

>>94680072
Found some by them, yes. Thank you, Anon <3

>>94681793
Downloaded it only today, so did not print with it yet, but:
>No auto orientation tool
Yes often its shit but would still be nice to have
>several features are still under development, so missing
>you can customize supports and save more than 3 presets
>can have multiple build plates in one project file

Looks like a nice tool, far from finished but looks already way better than chitubox. Since Lyche didn't work that great with my new saturn 4 ultra I think I'll try it for a while.

>>94679591
Anvil Digital
Golden Dragon Games

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I may have gone too far in a few places

>>94681883
>Since Lyche didn't work that great with my new saturn 4 ultra
If you're still here, what didn't work with it?
I'm about to set up a Saturn 4 Ultra for the first time and I was planning on using Lynche like I did for my Mars 3 but I didn't do any research into Lynche having issues with the Saturn 4 Ultra.

>>94682883
Lychee added lift where none was needed because of the tilt mechanism, even if I set it to 0 in resin settings. It printed, but took twice as long as the same settings on chitubox, where it only tilted and lifted 1mm or so. Maybe it improved by now, but I haven't printed for a few weeks.

From what I read they at least added the ability to watch the cam and send in lychee.

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Could I print this on a resin printer or would it turn out like shit?
It's designed for FDM.
If I do make it on resin, what resin should I use to not have it shatter easily?

>>94683058
Its printable, but if it shatters depends on your resin type. There are resins that can be soft like rubber that people use to print shoes. Those would probably be too soft, but you probably can mix it with most resins to make it more stiff.

I think any abs-like would be ok, as long as you put it together before the final cure so you have a bit more play in the snap on clips.

>>94683139
Okay thank you!

>>94682788
Great prints but pathetic coomer content 5/10

>>94684132
Hey man I went through a 2kg bottle of resin printing blood bowl and bolt action stuff, let me have some tiddies.

I've got 3 more coomer models printing currently but then I'll be done. For now.

does resin go bad or do i just need to shake the shit out of it? the bottles are over a year old but I've finally gotten time to re set up my printer

>>94685425
Yes, they can go bad, but you won't know without trying.

Don't shake them without giving them a moment to air.

You could then try applying just a bit on some piece of cardboard or something and curing it and seeing whether it looks ok or if there's some obvious "nope!" factor.

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>>94684132
>>94684183
Okay I'm done being a degenerate

today

>>94682788
>>94687169
Lookin pretty good anon. What resin are you using?
I've printed some pretty degenerate figs about twice the size of those. Around 1 foot tall.
I mainly print minis but sometimes the urge just hits.

>>94687457
Sirayatech abs like navy grey. It's so good

I like this ~75-120mm scale. Big enough to not be a total pain to paint but small enough that I can hide them when I have guests over. Excited to paint the barbarian lady in the first post, I haven't done much regular skin before so it should be good practice

also I gotta figure out what color her nipples are gonna be

>>94687487
>Sirayatech abs like navy grey
I use regular grey but have considered navy grey. But then I realize it wont make any difference once primed/painted.
Yeah I find painting larger figs a fairly different skill set compared to miniatures. And like you said it's a good way to practice skin tones.

>>94687169
>degenerate

Not a single nipple or pussy is shown. You are an american, aren't you?

>>94688410
Nah, the succubus with the whip has her nipples out and so does the barbarian girl in the first picture. So that's 4 nipples.

>Find some cool dryads
>Print them
>They're slightly smaller than the official ones
Fuck, I'll never financially recover from this

>>94689832
Just scale them up 10% and print again.

>>94687528
What are the big differences? I've only really painted minis before, not sure if I should be approaching larger statues the same way. Any guides/videos you recommend?

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if a model already has a flat base can I just print it without any supports or should still rotate it and add supports?

>>94689958
Flat stuff without overhangs can be printed flat, but:
>It will probably have the first mm squished and fat
>It can be hard to get off the plate without destroying it

And as soon as it has overhangs those need supports, and if you placed the model flat they can be hard to place.

>>94690017
in chitubox there are settings to have a raft that is the thickness of your initial layers and ~85% of the size of the base, this avoids the elephant foot issue. I print bases like this to avoid distortion and marks on the rim.

>>94689916
I'm just learning as I go so I don't really have anything to recommend sorry anon. And I'm still fairly new to painting in general, I got into minis through 3d printing.
It seems mainly different to me because you have larger surface areas to cover and small details are now more visible even as small details if that makes sense. Everything is just bigger and harder to hide flaws in your paint job.

Buying a nee 3D printer. Last one I used was the photon mono 4K. Is the OP paste bin still a good reference for what to get? Looked like it hasn’t been updated since 2022?

>>94692392
>Is the OP paste bin still a good reference for what to get?
It's basically only of archaeological interest nowadays.

>>94692771
nta but I am a noob looking to get my first 3D printer for miniatures and 28mm terrain, what's the best way to go about asking this thread for info? I've read the OP but haven't lurked these threads much

>>94692808
>my first 3D printer
Elegoo Mars 4 Ultra. It's cheap without sacrificing resolution. More expensive machines mostly just have bigger build plates.

>what's the best way to go about asking this thread for info?
Just ask, it's better than slowly slipping off the board or putting up with people begging for spoonfeeding to find GW stls

>>94693550
Will 7 inches be enough to print terrain on?

>>94695396
Depends on the size of the terrain.

>>94695396
It's not the size, it's how you use it.

>>94695417
Typical 28mm frostgrave stuff, some ruins, some houses, rocks, hills, etc.

>>94696625
Yeah, that's not exactly an exact measurement. What Bill find typical Bob considers gargantuan.
But there is a trick here if you have some stls at hand typical of the stuff you think you'll be printing. Download a slicer (say Lychee), tell it that you're going to be using whatever printer you're interested in, and then import the stl. The slicer will show the print dimensions of whatever printer you selected, and you can see if you can squeeze in the stls you want to print before you get around to buying the printer.

>>94696625
Smaller ruins are fine, but houses (if they have decent size) will be too big for a mars 4 ultra plate.

>>94696625
That's what I use mine for. You can fit a whole warband on a plate if you're careful with positioning, scatter terrain is fine, small buildings work, but bigger ones need some fuckery.

As a concrete example,
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3063111
has two good options for the "crypt in the middle of the map" scenario. The smaller mausoleum will fit on the plate if you tilt it on its side, the larger one will not. HOWEVER, it's just a model, you can load it into Blender and slice it into chunks, print them separately, then glue them together with some resin and a UV lamp. All depends on how much work you want to do.

Other terrain shit:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5908533
These mostly work fine. You can stack the walls bits and scaffolding like legos to make larger structures.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2762318
These buildings are juuust at the limit of what can be built on the Mars 4 plate without further slicing, with careful positioning to make the model as vertical as possible. The model with the little rubble pile extension just slightly goes outside of the build box because the pillars on the other side of the house make it hard to tilt properly to fit.

Also, you can always scale a model down a bit to get it to fit if it's almost there.

>>94692808
For terrain you'll have an easier time with FDM printers, slightly worse printing quality than resins but bigger and sturdier prints.
For minis I'm a newbie but the elegoo mars 4 ultra is really good and easy to use so it's probably the best first printer, but you'll likely outgrow it (infantry and "elite" models can fit, but once you get into monsters or wide models it won't fit anymore without cutting the model into pieces) so think about it

Can anyone point me in the direction of some stls for AoS Malign Sorcery endless spells? I see a few on Google but I remember seeing some that were almost 1-for-1 of the originals.

Do I need to fill my entire wash station with IPA or can I just do like 1/5th of it and fill the rest with water?
Filling the whole thing with IPA seems really expensive and impractical.

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>>94696625
>>94696957
I posted pic related a while ago. Its a set of terrain pieces to spice up cardboard boxes and in this case a pringles tube. Thats one plate for the Mars 4 Ultra. I'd say it works for most frostgrave sized ruins and wall sections too, as long as you print individual pieces and not huge chunks in one go.

For miniatures i agree with Anon above. One squad or Warband fits nicely onto one plate as long as its not too many individual components or "big" poses.

>>94697482
Ratman Forge did some endless spells, no idea if those are the right ones you need. I have no clue about AoS.
For example: https://www.myminifactory.com/object/3d-print-death-spell-pack-406756

>>94697599
Use mean green if it's available to you. It's $5 a gallon. Then have a separate smaller container with IPA to do final quick rinse/clean with after the mean green has dried.
I use this method and my IPA stays incredibly clean.

>>94697736
Sadly they aren’t.
I think these might’ve been the ones I saw but I can’t be certain.
https://www.myminifactory.com/object/3d-print-wild-spells-pack-396051

>>94697599
>can I just do like 1/5th of it and fill the rest with water?
Not really, no.

>>94697759
>>94697942
What I just did was spray my models with IPA out of a spray bottle to clear off most of the gunk, then it let it sit in the wash station (filled with only ~2000 ML of IPA, zero water) for about 10 minutes. I then sprayed them with the spray bottle one last time before drying.

Does that work or are there any issues with this method?

>>94697599
I have been using the same IPA for two years. I just decant it back and forth into a clean bucket through a paint filter every month or so and keep it topped off.
Zero issues.
OoO is spray prints fresh out the vat with 91% - into wash station 12 minutes - hot water bath and support removal. Cleaning alcohol and water go into an mesh covered evaporation/cure bucket that lives on my back porch.
There are loads of ways to not spend a lot of money and also not be irresponsible.

>>94697960
>also not be irresponsible
Do you think this >>94697954 is irresponsible?
Whenever my IPA starts getting dirty I'm going to transfer it to a mesh covered bucket outside.

>>94697954
>any issues with this method?
>then it let it sit in the wash station
Unless you mean actually just sitting and NOT washing this is the only issue. But if you are washing it in that 10 minutes your method seems okay. If it works for you it works.

>>94698002
Oh sorry, I have the Elegoo wash station I meant turning it on and letting it run for 10 minutes where it swirls around and all that.

>>94698013
Yeah I figured just wanted to check. If your cleaning process works for you just keep doing the same. How often are you having to replace or filter the IPA in your wash station?

>>94698041
I took about a year off of printing until today. But before that, I think I only replaced the IPA twice. But I was filling the wash station to the 4500ML line, which I think for only doing minis like I am is probably unnecessary.

What are some decent airbrushes for beginner use? Looking for ~$100 or less, don't need anything crazy, just want to use it for base layers or models that are mainly one color (fantasy creatures)

>>94700905
wrong thread, but any aliexpress airbrush set will do for priming and basecoats and some easy transitions on bigger minis.

I'm getting really annoyed by one creator after the other tries to jump onto the trench crusade hypetrain to make some quick money.

>>94662596
>Okay friends, it's time to link the Trench Crusade STL files. It's Christmas.
You bought them to share then?

>>94702498
>>94662596
They are on the app on some of the biggest channels. But I would keep a close look on them. Several of the V1 files had huge resin traps, like the War Wolf.

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Apologize if this is a retarded question, but this model hollow and are those little pixels drain holes?
That's my assumption but I've never printed anything hollow before and I wanted to make sure.
I know you have to wash them a little differently so I want to do my research first real quick if that's the case.

>>94661912
Source for the OP? Cool helmet

>>94703624
Isn't that internal supports?

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>>94703681
Oh shit I think you're right.

This is what it looks like when sliced. So I assume it's not actually hollow and I was just being too presumptuous?

>>94703696
Looks solid to me. The mini is pretty small too, you might want it solid in this case.

>>94703705
I want it solid, I just misunderstood I think because before I sliced it it looked hollow and I wasn't really wanting that.

I made a print in Lychee as a .ctb file to add supports, and then imported it into Chitubox so I could network print it.
If I make the print in Chitubox it tells me it'll take 2 hours and 15 minutes. But when I import my version with the supports from Lychee it's up to almost 8 hours.
What's adding all that extra time?
It Chitubox before I network sent it I set the exposure time to 2.5 second and the bottom exposure to 45 seconds. Is it just ignoring that and adding a shit ton of extra time for some reason?

>Okay friends, it's time to link the STL files. It's Christmas.
Anyone know if the weapons and accessories sprues are out in the wild yet? I can only find the church accessories

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What are people using for support settings? I just upgraded to a satrun 3 ultra and it kicks ass so far. After some calibration prints im at 1.75 exposure time with siraya tech fast gray. Just printed a building the size of my fist. The print came out great but one side has a bunch of support pips on it just a bit bigger than I'd like. Just using the default chitubox supports.

On my old photon mono 4k, an anon was nice enough to give me their settings and I just used those, never noticed pip marks that much. But I also wasn't printing things this big. I lost those settings between hard drives though.

>>94692392
>>94692771
An anon tried to make an updated one and asked for help but only a few people actually own a printer here, most posters here just collect stls and larp.

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What are the best proxy Steel Legion 3D Prints?

I had a look at places like Red Makers and Station Forge, but I was wondering if you guys knew of anyone better.

>>94709237
>Proxybrewer:
https://www.myminifactory.com/object/3d-print-deuterium-soldiers-334939

>Davik:
https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/game/iron-legionnaires-promo (+ all the other sets he made for iron legionaires)

>Adeptus Miniatures
https://www.myminifactory.com/object/3d-print-iron-squad-imperial-guard-317332

Red Makers Steel Legion Proxies are pretty meh, and not close to the originals at all, and Stationforge does Krieg for the most part.

>>94661912
Anyone have loggyk's old stuff?

>>94710021
What is his old stuff?

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I'm seeing a new issue on my prints, the very bottom most layer always seems to develop a void. To combat the issue I've started orienting my builds to have as non- concave a segment at the very bottom as possible, however I can tell the issue is pesisting. I'm also seeing some hatching on some other layers, any tips for eliminating this?

I assume there's some problem with my slicer settings or the calibration of my build plate being too close to the bottom of the tank, but I'd expect a more total failure if the later were the case.

Anyone know where I can find some cool stamps/rolls for details?
Mostly looking for leaves, grass and similar nature stuff

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Nearly every DS3 model got ripped and is available as stl. Best armor isn't, I wanna die :(.

I have a Saturn 4 Ultra and I'm having an issue where only front has any sort of adhesion and anything I put on the back half of the build plate won't stick at all.
From what I can tell this is a pretty common problem with the "Auto-Leveling" but I can't find any solutions on how to fix it.
Does anyone have any experience with this?

>>94712390
cant you level it manually?

>>94712489
Can you? I didn't think you could on the Saturn 4 Ultra because it has the auto leveling? I could be wrong though.

>>94712536
I am the wrong person to answer this as i dont have that printer, but i just assumed the auto leveling might be the fancy default setting, but maybe its optional?

>>94712390
>>94712536
I was attempting to help some other anon with his Saturn 4 Ultra a few threads back and he didn't seem to be able to level it manually. Just seems like a really poor design decision. Sorry anon

>>94712607
Would increasing my exposure times for the bottom layers (and adding more bottom layers) help with this adhesion issue, or would that be a non-factor?

>>94712672
It is definitely worth trying. You don't even have to run a full print. Just stop it after layer 50 or so or print something short.

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>>94712709
I'm going to try printing something in each corner and the center and see how it goes.

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Anyone know where to get High elf mini scans?
I've only found absurdly dense Teclis so far but I keep seeing bootleggers selling prints of other minis so I assume they must be around somewhere. Haven't been too successful so far finding fantasy scans in the blue arrow app

>>94712877
Telegram. Haven't seen much, but some.

>>94712709
>>94712875
This print worked successfully. So yeah I think the longer exposure times for the bottom layers is what I'll have to do.
I'm going to start up a print of some minis as opposed to bases and see if this still holds true.

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>>94709788
Tanks, I had seen the other two, but this is the first time I've seen Proxybrewer models.

Might pick a few up.

Probably a super long shot, but do any of you fa/tg/uys know if there's Zoid STL's floating around?

>>94662699
I bought a resin printer two months ago, printed 2 test models and dialed in the settings. Never had any prints fail(i exclusively use the automatic supports and always tile like 30-45°), the amount of my printed minis is in the triple digits. Massive skilk issue + weak bait.

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anyone know where I can find some proxies for putrid blightkings from Aos? what keywords or creators to search by?

>>94710843
They're so terribly optimized and their topigraphy is so shit anyway that they wouldn't print well anyway.

Anons, how do i print bases? I did flip them 45 degrees and did some auto supports, but their top half always ends up wobbly and uneven. Should i just lay them flat on the build plate?

>>94715500
You can print them flat, unless they are hollow. If they are hollow that will become a suction cup that could fuck shit up.

The thing with 45° is, it is the best only when your layers are as thick as your pixels are wide. If you print at any other layer thickness the angle changes. But that is only to reduce layer lines, and you described problems as wobbly and uneven, which probably stems from not enough support, so it can wobble around under pressure while printing.

To print something like a base and have it printed perfectly I tend to use way more supports than any auto support advises, start with auto and add medium supports every 5 or so mm of the rim.

>>94715500
I think the easiest would be to have one of these removable flex plates and just print them flat on it

>>94715083
>i exclusively use the automatic supports
What slicer are you using and what settings for the auto supports?

I've mostly had success but I've had a few failures that I believe are support related. I've been only printing pre-supported models though. I know people advise against that but if I don't really know what I'm doing I assume that those will be at least better than what I'd be doing.

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Looks like the LCD on my Mars died (pic related, sorta hard to see) there's big black spots, a bit of googling suggests there's no real fix for it and I need to replace the LCD.

Any suggestions on that? I remember reading/hearing somewhere that you can upgrade to a 4k screen on the original Mars but I can't seem to see anything like that on Amazon, and the main link I've found seems a bit iffy, a Chitu systems replacement screen. It might be the only option but I thought I'd see if anyone had any recommendations before I pull the trigger.

>>94715500
Flip them nearly vertical, so the supports are just a line along one edge. Stack 'em as dense as you can, print out a shitload at once. Like a row at the end of the plate alongside whatever you're intending to use them for.

>>94715500

Ok quick question: are you doing textured bases or just regular flat bases?

>>94715500
>Should i just lay them flat on the build plate
That will just make them more uneven in my experience.

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>>94715500
like this. They take a little longer to print, but Its alwasy worked for me.

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How does the quality of this print compare to what you would you get with an at home setup? I had it printed through JLC3DP since I'm used to using them for electronics stuff.

>>94720832
>those layer lines
Fucking yikes. If I printed that myself I wouldnt be mad, and probably use it in game. But that would be a point of progress for finet uning the printer more. If i paid for that I'd be pissed.

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>>94720909
They usually do larger functional prints I think, those go through a sanding step I did not have done. Does it help if its about $1.10 a model shipping and tax in?

>>94720832
I can get a refurbished Mars 2 on ebay for $100 and do better than that, and it'd cost 30 cents in resin to print

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Requesting Sisters of Battle exorcist driver helmet recreation.
>inb4 buy it
I'm not looking for pic related. I remember a chunkier version made before it that seemed more faithful to the plastic head that looks like pic related assuming it is still on the purple website.
Offering: copyright struck down scout and armoured sentinel by fable table.
https://gofile.io/d/ovoDhf

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>>94715500
>>94718522
My first bases with this approach were these rounded 25mm ones from Twingoddess. I didn't try generic hollow ones before, though i want to. My guess is that the generic hollow ones i can just flip on their heads and print them flat.

>>94717851
>>94719893
That would fail on me 100% sorry, tried it before with mixed results.
>>94715545
>>94716502
I'll try them flattened first, seeing as they are filled, my layer height is 30 microns compared to 34 microns pixel size. The advice i got is to keep the two as close as possible.

>>94717552
The anycubic workshop slicer which came with the printer, light supports, 1.75 exposure time(depends on the resin).Tilt the model slightly with the least amount of details facing down, apply automatic supports then slice and print. Pre supported minis can be hit and miss, some creators overdo it to the point you hurt your fingers trying to pry the mini off, and some fall off by themselves.

My guess is that the pre-supported parts are either inadequate or your adhesion is too strong to the fep. Try cleaning it out thoroughly and slow down your lift speed so your supports won't rip.

>>94721013
That is very cheap for a service.
But with the prices of printers nowadays, if you want to buy close to an army in models, starting your own printing is better and cheaper.
I would keep a lookout for refurbished printers. We're just after Christmas, and believe me, loads of people bought printers without reading enough about them and will send a slightly used printer back to the shop. So a flood of refurbished machines is incoming that will push the price down just so they can get their inventories down.

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>>94720832
See>>94721091
I printed those minis on my Mars 2 (still printing on it) at home. The qualility is more than enough for minis you will play with.
Saw the Mars 2 for 75bucks on eBay. So I would say get one if you want to print yourself.

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>>94709237
shhh, don't tell anyone I have these files

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>>94723331

>>94713011
Any keywords for scans specifically?
Telegram's search bar is going to give me an aneurism from how retarded it is...

>>94723833
Scan

>>94723952
Only got 1 group out of that, It's were I got teclis from

>>94723833
Think I found them in a something-workshop-group.

>>94724112
Yea I found that one. It does have a lot of stuff but for Helves it's only old miniatures. I was hoping for some isle of blood scans but it seems those don't really exist

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Is this layout good weight balance wise?
I think I had a print fail earlier because I had too much weight on the left half versus the right.
I tried to balance everywhere here but any second opinions before I hit print would be appreciated.

>>94724378
Looks fine anon.

>>94724378
What do we see here? Chaos Ogers?

>>94682788
what model is on the left

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>>94731054
They're technically "cave orks".
I've been printing WH proxies of goblins and orcs to use as D&D enemies because I like the WH visual style.

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>>94732457
Oops grabbed the wrong pic

>>94732467
Oh, Shrek. From your other pic i thought they were much bigger.

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I don't have much hope for this one sticking to a base, so I will probably have to print it again with a base attached.
Do anons here prefer printing bases separately or attached to the model?

>>94733023
What? You got two normal sized feet standing flat and you don't think that'll be enough to glue down? Are you using PVA instead of CA or something?

>>94682788
i hope you feel bad now
i now have a shitload of TG files

>>94733074
No its just regular old PLA. Maybe I am a retard using shit glue? I use my hot glue gun for it. Are feet this size not supposed to give trouble?

>>94733656
>No its just regular old PLA.
I'm not taking about the print material. PVA glue is your normal white woodworking glue, CA is short for cyanoacrylate, ie superglue.

>Maybe I am a retard using shit glue? I use my hot glue gun for it. Are feet this size not supposed to give trouble?
Yes you are. Feet like that should glue down securely enough against a flat surface that there's a decent chance the legs and/or base will break before the glue gives up. Leave the hot glue gun for middle school arts&crafts where it belongs and get yourself some superglue.

just ordered my saturn 4 ultra and all the ppe for it. my first 3d printer :) any tips?

For various reasons I let my resin printer sit in a box for a year and a half, and I think it had some resin in the vat. What are the chances it's not ruined? What are the chances the resin is still good? Kind of want to set it up on the patio overnight and just see if it prints as-is, but I don't have a curing or wash station anymore.

>>94733829
use it in a very very well ventilated area and always wear your PPE. resin will fuck you up. I don't know if it was really the cause, but when I first started 3d printing I did it indoors and wasn't as careful with respirators and ventilation as I should have been, and I have had absolutely horrible allergies since.

>>94733861
>>94733861
>Kind of want to set it up on the patio overnight and just see if it prints as-is, but I don't have a curing or wash station anymore.
While nothing you said was wrong, I don't know if you should be giving >>94733861 safety advice.

>>94733829
>all the ppe for it
If you don't have one already order a grow tent and proper venting.
I've found it best to print with the Saturn's lid up. I've basically never closed it.
I also had to increase the exposure on the bottom layers because of issues with the auto leveling.

hello warhammer enjoyers Christ be with you

I'm looking to get a resin printer for me and a few of my mates so we can stop paying booku bucks every time we want to play a new army. I mean sure, you can just play tabletop sim but it's not the same. Plus painting is fun... I've heard... (I'm sitting on half assembled Greyknights from like a year and a half ago)

Anyway
After a little research I've been looking at the Elegoo Saturn 4 Ultra for $400 USD (but maybe ill pay an extra 150 for the bundle with the cleaning station things idk)

*I am aware this printer has their own subscription based software and basically gets bricked without it*

What say you? This printer good or do you recommend another?

My use case is to print any warhammer minis I need in at LEAST GW quality for me and my friends.

I'm aware of resin toxicity and that I need to properly clean, ventilate, and cure it.

>>94734449
my advice was
>don't fuck up like I did
but let's be honest... everyone trying to print in a small home or apartment is going to poison themselves. It's impossible to do it safely without the space.

>>94734547
every modern resin printer for the last several years can print GW quality or finer, and even newer high end filament printers with fine nozzles can get really close. Stop reddit spacing.

>>94734565
>but let's be honest... everyone trying to print in a small home or apartment is going to poison themselves. It's impossible to do it safely without the space.
Stop being a retard, that is the best advice. Proper ventilation and common sense will lead to safe and good prints.

>>94733861
>>94734473
Yep I have kids and some cats so I've been pretty thorough with the safety. Nitrile gloves, vapor mask, all that good stuff. I have a whole windowed ~20'x10' space that's separate from the rest of my house that I'm going to use as my printing station and I'm going to cover the floor where I'll be working in some rubber spill mats that I can take outside and wash down. Gonna install an exhaust fan in the window and get an air purifier or two. I'm not too worried about that part really, some of my old jobs probably caused more irreparable damage to my body kek.
>I've found it best to print with the Saturn's lid up. I've basically never closed it.
>I also had to increase the exposure on the bottom layers because of issues with the auto leveling.
Thanks I'll keep these in mind!

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Just getting into 3d printing with a bambu a1 mini that I got for christmas. Learning what all the settings do and what to tinker with. It's a lot of fun

Sunlu Meta PLA, 0.2 nozzle and using the Fat Dragon Mini profile from Drive Thru RPG. Any tips or adviceon settings for scaling this to be larger?

>Any tips or advice
commit suicide now and save wasting the earths precious resources you pathetic coomer faggot

>>94734941
Lock scale in xyz axes in whatever slicer, scale accordingly
>>94735568
Nigger

>>94734941
you shouldnt have bought a filament printer to print small display pieces.

>>94733729
Clear as crystal anon. I presume the best time to glue is before priming? Then theres no layers between the filaments being glued.

>>94735914
>I presume the best time to glue is before priming?
Yep. If you prime first then the glue will only attach the paint layers to each other, and the strength of the whole bond gets bottlenecked by how well the paint holds on to the plastic. This might not be a disaster but, well, unless you have a really good reason to prime first...

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Doll collectors fucking terrify me with their dedication.

>>94734565
15 minutes of open window completely changes the air inside the room. Nothing else is needed to know about safety.
>Close window
>start printer
>close door
>x hours later
>open window for 15 minutes
>re-enter room
>deal with the prints

>>94734547
Get a Mars 4 Ultra instead. Saturn might be bigger, but has pixel density.

>>94736135
Is it any different from some space marine upgrade kits?

>>94736210
im brain dead what do u mean by pixel density? whats the drawback?

obviously 200 dollars cheaper is attractive but will i encounter any issues with the baseplate size for how people format out their .stls for printing?

>>94736318
>im brain dead what do u mean by pixel density? whats the drawback?
divide the screen resolution by the dimensions. More pixels per square inch allows for finer details, while a larger overall screen allows for larger prints or printing more models at a time. Print time for resin is determined by height, not volume, so cramming more models into a single print saves you overall printing time, although overcrowding the print bed can lead to print failures.

>for how people format out their .stls for printing?
most people don't format their stls at all unless you are paying a premium. You will need to rotate the model and set up supports yourself 99% of the time for free models, and even paid models sometimes have shitty autogenerated supports that aren't worth using.

>>94736318
The Mars 4 has slightly smaller pixels than the Saturn 4 (18x18 µm instead of 19x24µm), ie a slightly better resolution. Now whether or not you'll be able to tell the difference without a very resolution-optimised (so likely brittle as fuck) resin and a microscope...

>>94736318
>>94734547
>My use case is to print any warhammer minis I need in at LEAST GW quality for me and my friends.
>every time we want to play a new army

So you want to print entire armies, not only for yourself but for others too.
So a bigger plate to print more stuff at once should be your biggest priority, especially when you want to print bigger vehicles (in one piece).
Everything can be done on smaller machines too, but its a bit of a hassle to cut parts that are too big otherwise.

However, since you are completely new, i recommend to check if you can find a used/refurbished or otherwise cheap Saturn 3 instead of the 4. Maybe even Saturn 2. Just to try and see how everything works. Chances are, you will struggle until you figure everything out, and if you are unlucky, you will damage your printer in the process. And then its better the $100 older machine breaks than your Saturn 4 Ultra.
If you have printed 50+ models, you can still upgrade the machine. (or realize that print quality is already extremely good on the old printer and just keep printing).

>>94736210
don't listen to this.
you are not going to notice a difference in model quality and you sacrifice the ability to print larger models.

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Some Imperial Space Marines, courtesy of /hhg/ - https://gofile.io/d/AUzVle

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>>94737661
>that one legs that are 1.4gb

Anyone got a folder of those IO Butov tyranid STLs? Been wanting to print them.

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Hi.

First time posting or looking in this thread. I am stupid as hell but I have a few questions.

Context:
I got any Anycubic Photon Mono m5s pro recently. Most of my prints work fine, but occasionally they mess up and I'd like to fix that. I took my screen protector off and it worked fine for a few prints but now the bottom screen thing is all caked up with resin (can post picture of that in a sec). Picrel is my most recent batch of prints.

Questions:
Why does it seem like resin gets under my vat every time I print? It's annoying. Sometimes it's just a little and I can wipe it up just fine, other times it's a lot and it's hardened.

How do I position prints so they fail less? I got my first catastrophic failure last night (the melted blob guy), as well as a handful of other failures. I've never had a print batch turn out this badly.

What software should I be using? I'm using the default Anycubic software rn but it seems to suck. Someone mentioned Cura and Chitubox? Which is best?

Has anyone used flexible resin before? I would like to make molds for clay objects.

Any other protips or information I should include?

Thanks <3

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>>94737961
following up with another pic.

you can see the caked on resin on the bottom screen thingy. how do I clean that? I don't want to scratch that screen and I tried cleaning a screen protector by soaking it with isopropyl (which all evaporated) as well as a eco friendly paint stripper thing. Neither of which seemed to work at all.

for the build plate itself... am I meant to print directly onto it? it's kinda getting scratched up and I don't like that.

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and here are some humble offerings of stuff I've printed & painted thus far.

this guy snapped off at his ankles and I've left him like this cause it's easier to paint. Should be a simple fix later on.

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>>94736207
I built a fume hood thingy out of junk I found in my basement. All the parts I already had. Made out of a centrifugal fan, foam core, window screens, some garbage bags, and like two rolls of duct tape.

It falls apart fairly frequently but it does the job. I was a little paranoid about the fumes because it's next to my bedroom.

>>94737661
would you print it in pieces or glue it in blender or something

>>94737961
>Why does it seem like resin gets under my vat every time I print?

Is your vat pierced at some point?
Do the leaks occur at the same spot always?

>How do I position prints so they fail less?

Try to make it even

>I got my first catastrophic failure last night (the melted blob guy

Supports can fail for a large number of reasons, if it happens just once with this file its really hard to tell. Print it again, at a different position of your plate and with optimal temperature and settings you can learn more.

>>94737994
Very careful scrape it with a metal scraper. dont scrape into the glass, just on top of it. Like a window scraper thing.

>>94738085
If your construction makes you feel save, so be it. Its not fume-proof tho. Not at all. I really hope you keep opening that window of yours once in a while too.

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>>94737961
>>94737994
Anon you aren't overfilling your vat are you? Like when they plate goes down does it overflow?
>How do I position prints so they fail less?
Tilt them back at a 30-45 degree angle. Unless you mean where on build plate. If so, just spread them out evenly.
>What software?
I use Lychee
>Build plate scratches
Its fine as long as you don't have any deep gouges. Small scratches actually help with adhesion.

For the resin on screen just use your fingernail if you can. Press your fingerprint down and use it like a scraper. Here is a poor drawing I did for another anon and he said it worked pretty good for him.

>>94738414
I don't think the vat is pierced? I'll try looking at it closer.

The little heater thingy keeps it around 30c which I think is fine?

Will keep this stuff in mind going forward, thanks.

>>94738424
Okay. That's what I was thinking but it makes me nervous. Thanks.

>>94738440
It's definitely negative pressure, and the fan does vent out the window. When it's turned on you can see the entire enclosure suck in on itself, and you can't smell anything outside the room. And air does get sucked under the door to the room.

I dunno. I'm still cautious. Thank you for the concern.

>>94738484
No it's just under the "max" line inside the vat.

I don't wanna mess up my nails. :c

Might try the scraper ig? Thanks

>>94738523
>it's just under the "max" line
But have you watched to make sure it isn't overflowing?
One thing that could be causing it is a loose FEP maybe? Resin could be leaking out the bottom sides of the vat. But if there isn't a puncture and it's not overflowing idk anon.
>I don't wanna mess up my nails
Unless you have a manicure you won't. Its just a little thin layer of resin.

>>94737994
>>94738523
Seeing that pic it does not look like a hole in the FEP somewhere, but rather that resin is actually leaking through the side of it.
Since your printer is fairly new as you said, you probably haven't done it yet, but maybe you could check those screws at the bottom of your vat? Maybe they are not tight and resin flows through there somehow?

How do I go about paying someone to print some models for me

>>94738538
>>94738673
Thank you. I will try to look at it at some point this week.

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Any reliable alternative replacements for a Elegoo Saturn 3 Ultra leveling card? Bro threw it away without me knowing.
I've been using sheets of paper (2 or 3 sheets), but all my prints have been unsuccessful ever since I lost it. Nothing is sticking to the plate.
Online keeps saying that paper is a fair replacement, but I'm not getting success. Can't gauge if the paper I'm using isn't thin (or thick) enough, so I can't tell if I should switch up to either 2 or even 4 sheets.
Paper varies too much in thickness, and even firmness varies too, which matters. Not firm enough, and the paper will be thinner than it looks, due to the build plate pressing down at it during the leveling procedure.

Has anyone taken up the torch for emang in terms of game assets to STLs? There's a guide I'm reading on how he does it, but I haven't seen anyone else release anything after he got smacked down

>>94741227
Anon just put the vat in and level it that way. Don't pour the resin in though.
Home it and tighten the build plate then raise it 1-3 times by .01 mm (or whatever the lowest setting is in manual moving). Then set that as your home. It's what I do with my original Saturn and it works 100% of the time.
Just don't be dumb and force lower it too much into the screen and break it.

Legit question that may be tough to answer as we get used to it. But my sister wants to get an FDM printer to print out trinkets and I want it for terrain. What's the smell of an FDM printer like? I have a resin one and use low odor resin for an obvious reason, as it can be rank. Would I be filling my house with the smell of burning plastic? Is it better, more bearable, then resin, is it worse?

>>94742277
Pretty much non existent smells.
There is also a 3d printing general on /diy/ that focuses more towards FDM printing so that may be a good place to ask as well.

>>94742277
>Is it better, more bearable, then resin, is it worse?
It's not nothing if judged just on its own, but compared to normal printer resin and IPA it pretty much is.

>>94742299
Gottcha, thanks.
Yeah I have a fairly, overly, sensitive nose. So I can pick up on a lot of smells. Gotta work on the space for one before I can get one. Looking at the Bambu a1 I think it's called. It will 90% of the time be used for mini wargaming terrain, and like 5% cosplay stuff, and then whatever my sister wants to do with it. So I asked here, and totally forgot there was a /diy/ since I'm so contained to AWG and HHG I don't even leave TG.

>>94742316
>So I asked here
Yeah it's not a bad place to ask just wanted to let you know so you had options.

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Might be a dumb question, but is it enough to clip objects together in blender and save as a single file? Or can that cause some effects like trapped resin when printing?

>>94744940
It can cause issues
Open the stl on windows 3D builder if you have it. It merges all the parts into one automatically

I've had a Mars 4 Ultra for about a year now and it seems to be broken. When I turn it on it makes a sizzling/crackling noise and won't power up, or if it does get to the main menu it won't print. Anyone know what's wrong with it?

>>94741958
>Just don't be dumb and force lower it too much into the screen and break it.
Fuck I think I might have broken the screen

>>94709788
Megapolis defenders are probably the best ones out there, if you're looking for an updated version. Except for the scanned OG models.

>>94750123
How anon? Did you not loosen the build plate screw like you are supposed to when you level the build plate?

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>>94750361
I have to disagree. The gasmasks look completely off, and so do their rifles.

>>94748529
Did resin leak into your internals?

I want to print some terrain for Warhammer 40k, I was going to borrow a Ender 3 V2 but the guy changed his mind etc. so I got nothing. I checked the local prices for some common ones, which are approximately when converted to USD as;
Ender 3 V3 = $220
K1 = $525
K1C = $650
P1P = $720
A1 Mini = $310
Ender 3 looks like a steal for $220, but I was wondering if there is a hidden cost to it like getting extras or it being shit and requiring parts replacements? I just want to print terrain, maybe a used one is a better idea?

>>94753967
I also found a V3 KE for $330, and a used version with 4kg filament $290 that has 250hr run time.

>>94753967
I don't know a lot about FDM printers but I've known 2 different people who've bought Ender 3s that didn't work.

>>94753967
an ender 3 is going to be less reliable, slower, and have lower quality prints than most of the ones you listed. they aren't horrible but they will need more tinkering to keep it running. the enclosed printers will also be able to print ABS which is a better material if you are wanting to glue pieces together.

>>94662699
there are plenty of nuances to resin printing you learn along the way, and quite quickly if you're not retarded, and Its not as simple as plug and print as people make it seem, but you just sound like a dipshit.

>>94753032
I don't think so, but I don't know. I can't think of anything that would've caused that. Is there a way to tell?

>>94741958
I wasn't the anon that mentioned the broken screen, bt thank you very much.
I'll just relevel with the vat on (and be sure to not to the mistake that anon did.
Turns out, the reason why my prints kept failing was because the film was stretched out way to badly, so I needed to replace it.

>>94758435
Thats why you need to use a piece of foam or a sponge to install the film, else it can be way too tight.

>>94753967
Get an A1. Ender is crap.

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How does one go about finding the original creator of a model, or otherwise a trustworthy store?

So far I've been having fun with free models, but my sister's birthday is coming up and I wanted to find her a Lagertha model, from that Vikings show.
So I found a model that I liked, and then I found it again. And again, and again. And again.
And I noticed that a lot of the comments looked really fake. One warned me that the folder had the wrong files.

I'm more than willing to pay for a quality model, especially if it's for a birthday gift. But ideally not from some ESL reseller with missing files.
Related question; anyone know of a good looking Lagertha model?

>>94758675
It's significantly more expensive but just found a used A1 Mini for $220 with 5kg filament. I'll contact the guy tomorrow.
It's small but the thing I want to print comes with stls suited for smaller sized ones.

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>Author of pic released files for storage boxes for kingdom death
>Open file in Orca
>Image is solid, want to make honeycomb effect
>Remove top layer, still honeycombing supports inside letters

How do I fix this?

>How do I fix this?
its kingdom death shit. the only fix is to hang yourself until dead

>>94762777
Go ask the /diy/ 3d printing general. It's more FDM focused.

>>94762777
Use support blockers inside the letters?

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Welp, after half a dozen successfull print it was bound to happen eventually, just got my first failure.
1/5 of the prints worked fine, the other 4 got weird flat planes where there should have been something, so I guess the supports didn't print or broke during printing (the file had supports where the flat appears), also the second sculpt supports got extremely fucky for whatever reason.
Anyone knows if it's a user problem or because of some room temp/config stuff?
Using a mars 4U, chitubox and all default settings and automatic supports

>>94752338
Judging from the orignals they look pretty close, the rifles are kind gank though. The rilfes could definitely be updated better than the ones they modelled.
>>94723331
>>94723341

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>>94661912
>https://youtu.be/cjDpmh2NQMU
This clickbait shit is still in the OP!
WOW simply wow!
Do you need to shill your retarded channel this hard? That tutorial is literal garbage on the level of this picture.

Remove this trash video!

>>94767141
It really is, then you just draw the fucking owl lol

>>94766943
I tried to reprint it to see if it was just bad luck, one of them printed the same and everything else never printed except for the small square supports.
Guess I'll have to find what's wrong before printing more stuff

>>94762315
I found that model and 3 others of that character on the blue arrow app. Just join some groups.

>>94766943
>>94768230
Watch a tutorial on how to set up supports manually. As someone who's failed a lot of prints, it looks like a support issue to me.

>>94766943
Is your printer colder than it normally is compared to when your prints come out fine?

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printed some 'nids

>>94768324
I've avoided doing that for as long as possible because I hate being the new guy looking for stuff.
But if you say you found some I might just have to make the move.

>>94767141
If someone actually wants a considerably more relevant sculpting tutorial I like this one:
>https://youtu.be/tQfFlzHJJ88?si=t_6Y_1bCIFCVS7IN

>>94770224
There's an AMAZING group of 3D Print STL files you might find what you're looking for in.

Has anyone here tried using the Elegoo Water Washable Resin 2.0? I used to use the 1.0 stuff when I had my old Mars 1, but it was nothing but failed prints once I got my Saturn 3. I'm using Sirayatech Simple right now, but I miss how easy the Elegoo stuff was to clean with regular water. It seems like I'm constantly having to clean and re-clean the Sirayatech stuff to get the sticky uncured resin off while I could just throw the Elegoo prints into my cheap Amazon ultrasonic cleaner and have them ready to cure after a few minutes.