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>2025
aHR0cHM6Ly9mb3Jtcy5nbGUvemZxWjNGRDZIOXF2bVF5WDc=

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I'm reposting and you can't stop me.

I have to say MESBG minis are very comfy to paint. Anyone else enjoying old sculpts?

>>96823046
That's what I am doing
Just thought about picking up one of those booklets from AK and seeing if I can actually learn things
>>96823055
I don't think I am trying to improve that much?
I mostly see it as a hobby and I am good enough that everyone in my life is amazed, but of course I am aware of just how often I fuck up and how much better people can be
But I do keep trying out new things
Different scales, oil painting, enamel painting, scratch building, 3D printing

>>96823136
>Just thought about picking up one of those booklets from AK and seeing if I can actually learn things
That's a good idea!

>>96823091
I think there is more to the hobby than doing the perfect blend, but I guess I should just collect more real life knowledge on how things look irl/how light interacts with stuff

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Can I get a quick overview on the kits for 30k/40k CSM tanks? I'm planning to get a vindicator, a predator and a rhino, and I am wondering if I should go with the HH or the regular 40k kits. I do like the blockier look of the 40k kits better for the predator, and I like the big dumb dozer blade on the vindicator, but I feel I could go either way on the rhino. What am I looking at when it comes to accessory sprues? Does the HK missile come on any of those kits? I was hoping to use one of those as a stand in for the havoc launcher on the predator. What about pintle mounted guns and stuff? How many are there on the deimos rhino kit?

Also reposting boner.

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>>96823140
>>96823136
>one of those booklets from AK
aHR0cHM6Ly9tZWdhLm56L2ZvbGRlci8zemhSa1FLWiNnNm5QN2RnVHdsR0JZRG5qVzBfQ2Fn

>>96823224
Thank you

>>96823224
I have 2 of those books, and I think they're really good, but they're also overwhelming with the detail in them and I don't think I've even come close to squeezing all I can get out of the 2 that I already have.
They're good to be sure though and I would recommend at least the FAQ ones that I have.

>>96823185
Just so you know they only gave rhino and land raider to EC which is probably a sign that CSM will lose predator and vindicator in 11th.

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>>96823185
I have a rhino and predator which are just a regular SM rhinos with upgrade sprues that have spikes, chaos symbols and some other shit, picrel is the rhino one. Predator has a sprue(or maybe it was 2?) for the turret and side guns. The kits kinda show their age so be prepared to do some gap filling and some bits not being perfect fits. I don't play tabletop so I have no idea what HK missile is lol.

>>96823185
i know their webstie is utter garbage but doesn't GW have sprue shots on every product?

>>96823620
>sprue shots on every product
Some have them, others do not. Chaos Rhino has pictures of all the sprues but Predator and Vindicator have none. Not sure what's up with that but oh well, GW.

>>96823638
>https://elementgames.co.uk/games-workshop/warhammer-40k/chaos-space-marines/chaos-space-marine-predator
>https://elementgames.co.uk/games-workshop/warhammer-40k/chaos-space-marines/chaos-space-marine-vindicator

>>96823690
Well, there you have it.

>>96823409
>>96823607
>>96823620
csm bit sprues have always been a thing i but now that there is no more forge world how does one even buy chapter specific vehicle accessories anymore
or do they sell those the new site is so confusing you can barely browse it properly let alone find what you are looking for

>>96823721
i mean, you shouldn't browse their site anyways unless for very specific purposes, you should not buy from them anyways unles 'webstore only'

>csm bit sprues have always been a thing i but now that there is no more forge world how does one even buy chapter specific vehicle accessories anymore
i guess most people print this kind of stuff nowadays so the demand has diminished if they ever had any interest of doing them anyways

>>96823753
>unles 'webstore only'
3D printing is a thing, giving money to the corporation that hates you and has said as much, is inexcusable.

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>>96823185
There's a 40k vindicator

>>96823690
>>96823815
Thanks anons, this was very helpful. Any comments on the kits themselves? I know the 40k ones are older a bit harder to put together.

>>96823812
maybe, maybe not, some people actually like the models
i only buy seconhand or recasts anyways, 3d models are subpar with very few exceptions

>>96823891
i wouldn't say hard, they have humongous gaps tho
can't comment on the 30k ones, last i built was a plastic predator baal a decade ago

>>96823975
>3d models are subpar
Lol! That's some funny cope there buddy, you know 3d printing makes superior detail, just look at gw plastic capes vs resin capes.

>>96823975
>3d models are subpar with very few exceptions
You mean what's on the market, or in general?
t. 3dfag

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>>96821691
Black templar contrast over light blue, senpai. Slap chop my beloved.
>>96823185
>>96823891
The 40k chaos sprue comes with enough chaos bits for 2 vehicles, pintle weapons and missile launcher with chaos trim you dont get with the deimos which is nice. But I still think the 30k rhino is worth the build and spare whatever chaos bits you get elsewhere, unless you definitely want the chaos bits from the 40k sprue. Datasheet wise neither kit even comes with enough pintle mounts to fit the whole loadout (at least when I did a 40k World Eaters one) so you'll need extra parts and kitbash anyway if you want full WYSIWYG.

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>>96815574
done with this one
I think I used the wrong wash, it muted too many details
Oh well next one

>>96824022
>cope
you keep using that word, i don't think it means what you think it means

i have no stake here, i want models and don't care where they come from if they are good, if they come from a printer so be it

you talk about capes, do post examples, i don't know what you mean
also post an example of a print as good as this >>96761551 because i have never seen a 3d with detail as sharp as that (here or elsewhere)


>>96824050
if by 'not on the market' you mean bootleg scans, yes i meant to include those

however i was mostly hinting at how most 3rd party 3d designers have no idea on how to design models for a boardgame that need to be painted instead of a videogame asset

>>96824531
>i have never seen a 3d with detail as sharp as that
I have to give you that much, no 3D print of mine has ever needed as much greenstuff to fill gaps and resculpt detail as anon had to put into that project, but I think that is the opposite of what you thought you were pointing out.

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>>96824531
NTA but here you can see millimetre thin front tabard, back tabard, sword sheath and a cape, all separate with no chunking to accomodate the necessities of plastic molding, all printed as one piece, no bits.
GW will never achieve fine detail like this.

>>96824531
>how to design models for a boardgame that need to be painted instead of a videogame asset
Oh I've seen this one before! Now you're going to launch into a gaslighting explanation of how finer details is actually worse and that whatever level of detail GW is currently producing is the correct amount of detail.

Can you take this to /3dpg/ please? Thanks.

>>96824623
yet you still haven't commented on the matter at hand wich is the sharpness of detail, not the slopiness of the recaster, but you could just say you don't want to have a discussion in good faith and be done with it

not every opinion is an attack on your decisions even if you want to feel like it for some reason

>>96824654
i see, that is a good example of a good print

>all separate with no chunking to accomodate the necessities of plastic molding
seams will always be a downside of molds but that's the price of mass production

>one piece, no bits.
i get you, but this is not always a plus, being able to easily kitbash and pose things without knowing cad beats having no seams anywhere imo

>GW will never achieve fine detail like this.
gw is shit at molding, they don't even try becuase they don't have the market pressure to
look at a bandai kit if you don't know what i mean

semi-related but, how big is that and what resolution was it printed at?, are lines noticeable at all on the round thing on the top for example? or is the primer enough to cover whatever microscopic lines are there?

>>96824665
no that would be stupid and pointless to the discussion, i'm talking about style, paintability and readability, some of wich is objective some is not
not everyone can (or want to bother) paint details a fraction of a milimeter big

>GW is currently producing is the correct amount of detail.
>GW
>correct
that is even more laughable, you keep pretending i was trying to defend gw or something, there are more manufacturers with better models, be it plastic or not

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sorry for apparently siderailing the thread
i just wanted to know if i can still buy fancy doors for my rhinos etc from official shop
it used to be a really big thing

>>96824764
>not everyone can (or want to bother) paint details a fraction of a milimeter big
And there it is, exactly the "argument" I predicted.

>>96824790
>from official shop
You literally just said that it doesn't matter where the item comes from and now you're right back to "needs to be GW"

isn't 3d printing models in large chunks not taking advantage of the printer's capabilities? you can split complicated parts off so they're easier to paint and even make parts press fit.

>>96824894
And some people choose to do that, but with 3D printing you an do whole print after digital kitbashing or bits and sub assemblies as you desire, you're not forced into either.

>>96824894
>not taking advantage of the printer's capabilities?
Arguably that is exactly what it is doing, only a 3D printer can do something like anons pic here >>96824654 as a single piece, you cannot get that with molds.

>>96824889
nope this would be my third post this thread
i remember when the specialist games website started and ended and i remember when forge world was the hot shit and now im having trougle browsing the current bullshit iteration because from what ive gathered its made completely for mobile users

>>96824919
what advantage does monolithic construction give other than saving you the trouble of having to glue it together?

>>96824869
that's not an argument, is an objective statement of fact, can you even read?

>>96825001
That is the furthest possible thing from "objective fact" that is a Subjective Anecdote.

>>96824994
>what advantage (except the main advantage)
You answered your own question.
It also wasn't about advantages, it was about the physical capability for the production method to do things that molding cannot do which directly affects capacity for detail.

>>96824994
if it fails you dont lose the whole thing

>>96824790
They have fancy round doors for the Horus Heresy rhinos, but as for the big rectangular doors for the regular ones no, they don't seem to sell those anymore.

>>96825039
>some people like a, some people like b
>nooo nobody likes b that's not objective you have to prove it

yeah, ok, whatever, you do you

>>96825062
isn't that a disadvantage?

>>96825059
the time you save in assembly is trivial so if that's the main advantage I don't see the point. on the other hand being able to have a gun be a separate part from the arm or even the entire body gives clear advantages when painting and practically allows for more details.

>>96825221
>so if that's the main advantage
Anon just said that the capacity to do things like that is a demonstration of the objective fact that 3D printers can produce higher levels of detail.
I love how well-poisoners like you will hyper focus on a single aspect of a comment and completely ignore everything else said.
Barring that you'll hyper focus on the most recent comment and ignore points made prior in the very same argument

>>96825184
Yeah that's an anecdote.
Find me anyone other than yourself right now claiming that they prefer low detail chunky models, because I've never encountered this outside of this exact argument where shills imagine it as a point against printers.

>>96825239
>like that is a demonstration of the objective fact that 3D printers can produce higher levels of detail.
but it's not, even if they are, it's just a demostration of being able to do things without seams with doesn't directly imply more detail

>>96825239
splitting your print into pieces doesn't have anything to do with how much detail it has

>>96825221
>isn't that a disadvantage?
for example yesterday morning when i went to get my mail there was a work crew who told me my power will be cut for 4 hours today at some point and there was no negotiating with them
now imagine you were printing stuff and some of it was ready already and some were cut short by the electric company, if they were one piece you would have lost the whole 3 day print

>>96825283
>with doesn't directly imply more detail
How do you not see that that is exactly what it is? Seams alone is an issue which forces a sculptor to compromise their designs which is a reduction or change to the detail of the model based on physical inability to produce it.
3D printers have no such limitation, therefore they can produce more and better details limited only by the sculptors skill and the settings you manually put into your slicer, 10k printers can do detail on a level that is not possible for the unaided human eye to distinguish, plastic molding has hard limits to thicknesses and enclosed gaps that fall far short of human visual limits.

>>96825320
>3 day print
That's FDM, not resin. 10k HD 32mm scale minis take about 4 hours or so tops and many printers can be resumed after a power loss anyway.

>>96825250
> other than yourself
does richard gray count?
> I also prefer things that are not very detailed so I can paint whatever details on that I want
> I get annoyed about on a lot of the new models because they're so heavily detailed and [...] take a lot longer
https://youtu.be/cL8SuSq4LOw?si=kHM9GiZbXCCMVkEr&t=3039


> shills imagine it as a point against printers.
you are still fighting ghosts, i'm not again against printers, i even have and fdm one, i just don't think they are on par (yet)
and i'm not defeding gw, fuck them and their models

so let's try again, can you get with a 3dprint the sharpness you can get with a resin model like the dragon above or not? because the other's anon model doesn't have sharp detail (by design) so it's not an example for that

>>96825391
Okay, that's one guy who is on a paid youtube channel shilling GW painting competitions.
>Printers aren't good enough, my FDM is proof!
Bad faith argument. Exactly this argument was made by a GW staffer in the last decade in an interview where when asked about 3D printing responded "I've seen 3D printers and they just aren't there yet, it'll be many decades before they're even close"
Again in reference to FDM, quietly refusing to acknowledge the existence of resin and was proven wrong by the physical realities of resin within a year or two of that comment.
Wait, not an interview, this was a prepared speech he gave to his board of directors about why 3D printing was nothing to be concerned about and that Citadel should not get into 3D printing themselves.

>>96825391
>can you get with a 3dprint the sharpness you can get with a resin model like the dragon above or not?
Yes you fucking moron, if you were even remotely familiar with resin printing you'd know this already, you can get details so fine and fragile that your paintbrush will shatter them if you're too agressive.

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how about put this whole 3D printing thing to rest and forget it
>printing in pieces you can minimize the detail loss and supports by printing in pieces
>printing in pieces you can fit more said models onto youre printer
>printing in pieces there is ress risk of breaking fine detail
>printing overall can make you feel like abig man who argues about it on painting general

>>96825391
Resin-based 3D printing, such as stereolithography (SLA) and digital light processing (DLP), operates at resolutions that can reach down to 25 microns, providing ultra-smooth finishes with intricate designs. This level of detail is not achievable with injection molding, which is better suited for high-volume production but lacks the flexibility and customization options of 3D printing.

Retard question, but is it a bad idea to place a box with freshly primed minis on top of a radiator to make them dry faster? Like, will it negatively affect the texture of the primer or something?

>>96825391
You know how to tell that 3d printing has superior details to GW traditional molding processes?
3 years ago forgeworld started using 3d printed masters to make their molds with and they did it without ever turning on the antialiasing feature, their sculpts started shipping with not just mold lines and bubbles but PRINT LINES as well.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1wF_eLoK9PA

>>96825320
yes that's why I said it's a disadvantage of printing in one piece.

>>96825529
read the technical data for the primer it will say what the optimal conditions for curing are.

>>96825529
usually i put them on top of my computer case top exhaust straight away
you wont ruin them unless dealing with extreme temperatures

What's the strongest paint stripper for metal minis? I've used spirits and tried greenstuffworld's paint stripper but none have been able to get rid of everything. The GSW stripper wasn't even able to strip two minis primed with Vallejo's brush primer.

>>96825642
grocery store old school hobby special: hand sanitizer
hardware store regular: IPA

>>96825671
I'm not English or American, what does IPA stand for besides Indian pale ale?

>>96825642
>What's the strongest paint stripper for metal minis?
Can you get pure methylene chloride? What about a commercial paint stripper like Bix with that as one of its ingredients?

You can probably save some money by trying the purest concentration of acetone you can get your hands on.

>>96825678
isopropyl alcohol.
Though for metal minis the answer is acetone or lacquer thinner.

>>96824654
Why is it important it's in one piece? Also,
>sword inbetween ass and cape
Even worse than GW type of detail. No one will ever see that sword.

>>96825671
>IPA

I start to consider this thing a literal gift from Heavens. I use it to clean tools, synthetic brushes (don't want to risk damage natural ones), remove paints, glue, oils, etc. Keep it in small spray bottle from some perfumes at my desk and use it regularly. I have yet to run into something that isopropanol can't clean. AND it also evaporate quickly and thus is harmless to the plastic.

>>96825419
>Printers aren't good enough, my FDM is proof!
again stop pretending i say whatever you would like to hear, no, fdm is nothing compared to dlp or sla printing, i'm not refusing to acknowledge anything

>Wait, not an interview, this was a prepared speech he gave to his board of directors about why 3D printing was nothing to be concerned about and that Citadel should not get into 3D printing themselves.
baffling

>>96825429
post.a.fucking.example.

>>96825485
is this an ia response?
you are talking about xy resolution, what about z?

>>96825678
isopropil alcohol

>>96825642
1. media blasting
2. stuff that causes cancer like mek
3. lacquer thinner which contains 2 but diluted
4. acetone

I would start with acetone since it's mostly non-toxic. put the parts in a jar with a lid so it won't evaporate.

>>96825642
>metal
Acetone, seriously hoping the anons suggesting IPA are memeing.

>>96825753
>I start to consider this thing a literal gift from Heavens
used to order it online for years until one day we started talking with my hardware store clerk when the online sales were banned from my country and he said they just started selling it in 10 liter cans
and it was cheap too, fuck yeah dude

i mean why would anyone buy acetone unless you were also planning to make putty from your spare sprues
iso strips plastic, pewter, metal ,resin and even finecast (granted it turns finecast into rubber after 45 minutes) but it hardens up again in 2 weeks

>>96826076
>why would anyone buy something that can clean up paint, glue, epoxy, and oil while being relatively non-toxic and safe to dump down the drain

>>96826214
Acetone is not harmless, you shouldn't really breathe it. I know, I have experience from working at chem lab.

>>96826330
I guess I'm going to die then since I use it for degreasing every day.

>>96826330
I agree with you, but proper ventiliation and PPE is easy. A lot easier than cycles of IPA dunking and toothbrush scrubbing. Just put it in a glass jar and screw the lid on.

>>96825755
Goalpost moving and bad faith arguments.
All your complaints have been proven wrong, you very clearly just have a problem with 3D printing on a conceptual level.

>/wip/ - sperging about chemicals and 3D printing
POST
MINIS

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>>96826373
gonna take this chance to repost my dino riders :^)

>>96826381
Thank you, anon. Very nice raptors!

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I haven't reposted in this thread yet I guess.

>>96826076
To clean my airbrush, especially after using lacquer paints (cellulose thinner works to, it's just that acetone is what was on the shelf last time I went to the store for a new can).

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>>96826214
you should not be dumping any of these down the drain anyway, every city has a place place where you can drop off harazdous materials for free
airbrush enthusiast are so strict about their seals so imagine what this stuff does to your plumbing
t. käytetty is finnish for used

>>96826364
still no pics, you have nothing to offer other than pretending

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>>96826373
no wip only sperg

acetone is perfectly safe to handle and use, especially in the quantities we're talking about for this hobby. if it irritates your skin just wear gloves but this obsession with dangerous fumes is really pathetic. i'm not sure how some of you manage to leave the house without having a panic attack

>>96826522
bold assumption that I can leave the house without having a panic attack

>>96826522
>leave the house without having a panic attack
some don't, it really shows

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>>96826522
>this obsession with dangerous fumes
zoomers will have a very very hard life ahead of them and they will make it all our problem

>we're now moving to the great health hazards debate
shut the fuck up
please

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>>96826643
its -10c outside im 22 beers in and its 2am in the morning
mind if i take a little nap before contributing any more

>>96826522
Most people don't realise your body makes acetone. And that absorption through skin it exceptionally minimal short of soaking your whole body in it for hours. If still paranoid though and just using for paint stripping you can get nail polish remover for cheap from any supermarket which is like 2% acetone and will strip models fine, though may need a light brushing.

>>96826584
They will bitch about the dangers of chemical fumes and then go happily walk next to a main road not realising the sort of shit they are inhaling. Same dipshits who think using acrylic paints in an airbrush will give you cancer unless you use a ventilated spraybooth and respirator.

>>96826465
Sure thing james.

>>96826732
hand sanitizer is 70-95% alcohol and was used to strip models back in the day long long ago
if 2% scented acetone nail polish remover was a thing we would now remember it instead but it was not

>>96826441
'Kay, titty.

>>96826732
>spraying anything without ventilation
I swear to god 90% of the "advice" I see in this thread is just cope for being lazy.
>I don't need to wash my plastic before painting it
>I don't need to paint over my primer it's already the color I want
>I don't need to paint the whole model the black primer will look like shadow
>who cares if the left side of the gun isn't painted no one will be able to see it
>I can't open a window when I'm painting it's too cold outside

>>96826773
Ethanol based products is still widely available for stripping and works, but generally isn't as reactive as acetone based. Which means more scrubbing required. Pretty sure that regular nail polish remover has been around for ages but people just never used it since it wasn't until the YT era that general hobby knowledge started to really disseminate. Otherwise I am unsure how bitches would be getting this nail polish off back in the day.

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Today’s progress.
Trying to finish my combat patrol before other stuff arrived today - nearly got it done. Just some touching up of the blue and red base layers then highlighting of the blue and spiritseer needed and I’m done.

>>96826820
Part of the aforementioned other stuff - built this today (china cast). Fucking pain to build but very happy with the quality of the cast.

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>>96826828
Forgot pic

>>96826812
> Which means more scrubbing required
at the end of the day you have to scrub them few times no matter what you use, 20 year old paint and 4-5 coats of primer in between you cannot really tell the difference
you only get your bathroom sink and your old toothbrush dirty

HOW THE FUCK ARE WE STILL TALKING ABOUT THIS

>>96826914
dont jinx it
it just stopped literally a minute ago

>>96826873
Scrubbing is generally always required to some degree. But there is a distinct difference between how caustic acetone is compared to ethanol. Mostly comes down to how it seems into the surface. Acetone based can be pretty quick, where as Ethanol can take significantly longer in comparison.

>>96826845
unbend that weapon

Plastic models:
>soak in isopropyl alcohol 90%+ for 5 minutes
>take out, scrub with toothbrush, rinsing toothbrush frequently and wiping on paper towel to keep in clean rather than smudging gooey paint around
>do this for a minute or 2 until you stop making progress, put model back in IPA for a couple more minutes
>repeat until as stripped as you want - might need to pick some hard to reach spots out with a toothpick or something similar

Resin:
>similar to plastic, but soak it for less time and do more rounds of scrubbing because the isopropyl alcohol can soften the resin
>probably want to leave the resin for a day or 2, but most likely optional, just to let any IPA that soaked into the resin to flash off

Metal:
>Use the strongest solvent you have short of literal acids
>simple green < IPA < Acetone < lacquer thinner
>Use acetone or lacquer thinner. Put it in a glass jar, soak it for a few minutes, shake the jar a few times, all the paint should just come off on it's own after a few minutes.
>Try and have ventilation for those options, but you won't die, and you won't have any large amount of exposure anyway

There. This is all anybody needs to know about thinning. Now move on.

>>96826995
does lacquer thinner work on acrylics? i thought it was just for oil paints

>>96827089
it's mostly acetone with added xylene and toluene so it will work on almost everything

>>96827128
fascinating, i just always assumed it was some sort of oil based solvent that wouldn't do anything to acrylic and never looked into it. might have to pick some up next time im at the hardware store. how does it go with general cleaning, is it worse than straight acetone for fucking up plastics and finishes?

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>>96827089
Is this a joke to you?

>>96827144
it's more toxic than straight acetone so I wouldn't use it for general clean up. stick to using it with paint.

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>>96826373
Here, my first Word Bearer (though I painted for years casually).
Not much difference with what I posted in the earlier thread but hey, trying to help fighting useless topics.

>>96826381
They're so gorgeous, I'm so fucking jealous, great work.

>>96823185
So clean and smooth

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This is why you use lacquer thinner to strip metal minis if you can. Less than 5 minutes total, and if I had used a jar to slosh around I wouldn't have to scrub it at all.
I didn't realize the mini had a plastic head on it, it is now gooey and sticky and I'll have to replace it - don't use on plastic or resin it will instantly melt them.
I normally use a funnel with this because the surface tension is screwy but whatever, just ignore the spill. DON'T use it on cutting mats or anything other than wood metal or concrete, it will melt through any synthetic materials including the paint on my washing machine. It also melted through my nitrile glove while doing this.

>>96827208
i like it and those emperor and gravity defying blood drops

>>96827362
*note, this in particular is still mostly acetone, so I suspect acetone would do similarly as well and I have used it before too, this stuff is just a little spicier and faster in my experience.

>>96827399
some people even used to use brake fluid imagine how long did that take

>>96827453
Brake CLEANER fluid, anon.

>>96827453
>>96827458
I was gonna ask, you mean brake cleaner, right?
I can see that making sense, but I've never heard of it.
The advice in my day was to use Easy Off oven cleaner - but only on metal models. And it didn't work very well frankly.

>>96827453
>>96827458
yeah brake cleaner fluid
alright 24 beers im done for today good night fellas
lets keep it civil tomorrow and paint some models

>>96827531
>lets keep it civil
Suck my hairy balls, faggot.

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I've never used pigment powders before, but I want to give it a go, so I grabbed a few colors. Whats everyone's favorite go-to for weathering? I feel like I might have fucked myself with this scheme because the blue metallic is a colorshift paint so Im having trouble finding examples of other people dinging it up.

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>>96828219
>how it started to grow
>...oh no

>>96826773
>hand sanitizer
Two more weeks

>>96826522
Just use mineral spirit and wear gloves ofc

>>96823068
Looking for budget detail airbrush. Should i get the Sparmax SP-20X or the GSI Procon Boy PS-270?

>>96823224
>aHR0cHM6Ly9tZWdhLm56L2ZvbGRlci8zemhSa1FLWiNnNm5QN2RnVHdsR0JZRG5qVzBfQ2Fn
How can i use this link?

>>96829150
look up a base64 decoder

>>96829139
>budget
Fengda, any middle model will do.

>>96829139
Fengda BD 180 is well tested and can do a lot.

>>96829228
>>96829295
b-b-b-b-ut i like mr hobby

>>96825642
Nitrocellulose solvent and acetone.
Nitro is stronger (eats through most paints within a minute) but won't touch superglue, acetone will turn superglue into easily-removable jelly.

>>96826522
>if it irritates your skin just wear gloves
NTA, but that won't work with nitro, it disintegrates them really quickly or seeps through. I usually hold the minis getting stripped with long tweezers and work them over with a toothbrush so I don't have to handle that shit directly.

>>96829329
Sure, pay 2-3x more for the mark. Chinese airbrushes are not some complete crap internet claims they are. I use local variant of said Fengda, polish FA-180A (I assume it's the same model anyway, just different name) and it's very good for my needs. I'm not going to pay 8 times more for "premium" stuff.

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Tired of painting nids for the moment. Based and primed and painted him in 1 day, gotta add some final touches to base etc but happy with the progress in a short amount of time

>>96829754
no idea what im looking at here but looking good and you nailed the mossy creek

>>96829754
is he blushing?

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>>96823132
A little change of pace

>>96829873
What a fine, pure disgust on his face.

Nice work.

>>96826398
Look good

>>96829139
GSI hands down, same tooling as iawata

>>96830045
has this been confirmed or is it still a rumor based on compatibility?

Can somebody explain varnish to me? I don't really plan to play with my miniatures, I just like painting them. Should I still varnish? I know a glossy varnish isn't ideal, but I don't want to ruin hours and hours of work by doing the wrong thing. Is a thin coat of AK ultra matte varnish just the way to go? And just ignore metallics?

>>96830264
when minis were still made from metal you basically had to varnish them because they would be scraped to hell and back othervise
normal plastic minis have no problem unless you are using these new contrast paints because they will basically peel off just by looking at them wrong
some other anon will most likely fill in what kind of varnish has a hard coat and what to use in between oil washes for example because those are a thing too

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>>96830264
If you're not playing with your models and handling them often you don't need to varnish them. Any varnish will slightly dull the colors. I actually use AK ultra matte as well and it's really good.

Sometimes you want to varnish just to unify the sheen on your minis if you're using paints with different finishes, for instance if something is rly glossy you dont want glossy.

Varnish is also a good step prior to using newsh. Gloss varnish is useful before applying panel liner.

Hope this helps. Have a mini pic too

>>96830264
If you don't need to worry about wear and tear from transport&playing, then varnish at the beginner level is just a way to get things as gloss/satin/matte as you want them when the paint themselves are something else. If things are the way you want them without varnish then don't bother, but otherwise apply the kind you want in the places you want it. This could be an all over spray coat of matte varnish if you want everything matte and not all of it is, or it could be painting over this bit with gloss varnish, that bit with sating varnish, and a third bit with a dead flat one.

If you move up to doing scale model style weathering then a number of coats of varnish is usually involved in order to keep the weathering you're currently applying from messing up the previous layers of work.

>>96830343
>and what to use in between oil washes for example
Acrylic varnish there, or more specifically, avoid oil/enamel-based varnish since the solvent in your wash will dissolve it.

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>>96829150

>>96830343
>>96830350
>>96830358
As of right now, I don't plan to play with them, but I may consider it in the future. I was watching a vid from Vince where he says he mostly does 1 part gloss to 3 parts ak ultra matte. Would this be a good catch-all for minis? And I just make it and use a shade paint to cover the entire mini (bar metallics)? I don't want to think too hard about it but I also want to make sure they stand the test of time, especially if I do decide to go back and play.

>>96830404
I love this!

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>>96830422
i also use ultramatt, i do matt everything and then do a pass with 1:1 ultramatt and satin for the metals

>>96830422
>I was watching a vid from Vince where he says he mostly does 1 part gloss to 3 parts ak ultra matte. Would this be a good catch-all for minis?
Haven't seen it in person (that I know of) but that's probably an ok way to go. Then again the "ideal" is rather down to personal preference here, so the exact ratio is... whatever. Unless you think it desaturates your colours too much I'd probably just run pure matte, don't complicate things if you don't need to.

> And I just make it and use a shade paint to cover the entire mini
"It"? If you mean the varnish then the kind of protective varnish we talk about here usually goes on last, after all the actual painting. Anything you do afterwards will, after all, not be protected by it. As for shade paint... you mean something like a wash or contrast paint? Whether you'd want something like that absolutely all over or all over save for the metallics (or all over save for some other part) depends on the paint scheme and look you're after. Sometimes a single one all over works ok (usually a somewhat desaturated darkish brown with the end goal being a somewhat dirty looking mini), sometimes it doesn't.
On the other hand if you mean varnishing before a wash to change how the wash works then you want a more matte varnish coat to make the wash stain more and give more colour overall, or a more gloss varnish for the opposite effect.

>I don't want to think too hard about it
Yeah, just paint the bloody thing and then, if you feel like it, spray it with a more-or-less matte varnish. Take the advanced stuff when you get there instead of worrying about them now.

>>96830422
Realistically you can just use a canned matte varnish, hit the whole model with a single coat and it'll be durable enough for casual handling and unless you put it next to an identical unvarnished model you won't even be able to tell that the colors changed

>>96830508
>"It"?

The mix of satin / ultra matte

>shade paint

Meant shade brush

>>96830539
>>96830508
what's a good spray matte varnish? I watched a couple vids and they all recommended against it.

>>96830540
Ah. Yes, that could work. Spray cans/airbrush tend sot be quicker, but if that's not available then the big hairy stick it is.

>>96830542
hard question that has just as many answers as there are people answering
some prefrer brand products others swear by hardware store cheap alternatives
i go with hardware store but the quality and availability varies greatly because its a big world so impossible to recommend anything

>>96830542
montana makes a good one

>>96830264
Acrylic paints tend to change coloration from natural light, overall it's for protection of paint layer, be it physical damage, light or other problems. Even paintings that spend their entire life on the wall gets some sort of protective varnish layer so don't complain and just do it.

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How do I prevent aggrellan earth from chipping off? I apply it, let it set but then if I do any sort of handling it just starts to fall off.

>>96830264
Oh and AK "ultra matt" can easily kill all sort of reflections and, at least in my case, make colors lose saturation. Personally I recommend either mixing it with their normal matt varnish or use Vallejo "mecha color" one mixed with dedicated thinner.

>>96830607
A coat of watered-down PVA? Like you would with sand

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Just don't use Vallejo new "matt" varnish. They screwed it up and it ends up glossy, somehow.

>>96830640
like underneath the crackle paint?

>>96830793
over a dry one
you know like what you do with a regular base

>>96830641
Oh FFS, and I just bought a bottle. Thanks for the warning I guess, I'll try mine out first and if it is fucked like in your pics treat it as satin.

>>96830641
You're not supposed to thin matte varnish.

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Better picture, he's based now.

Took like 5 hours

Speed paints r a godsend honestly

>>96831017
based

>>96831017
>Tau skull
DEVILISH
Very nice base I have to say