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File: sea_critters_WIP_banner.jpg (1008 KB, 2560x1446)
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Work in Progress, Poor Unfortunate Souls Edition

>Full-on /WIP/ OP Links Pastebin
https://pastebin.com/BE42AEcD

>WIP Tutorial Images Mega
https://mega.nz/#F!TvQFCaLb!w8WZKCcOsTRasxrI0JWezw

>Saint Duncan's "Six Things I Wish I Knew When I Started Painting"
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ufP8ka3KGno

>Saint Duncan also explains thinning your paints
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wxWgsqSf74s

>Paint thinning 102
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sBDVPoNXyVI

>4 EASY Chipping Tricks For Beginners
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ku4comhKHJM

>Decal Like a Pro
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SYKLiEW7p9c

>How to Edge Highlight
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KoRbYuAfbEk

>How to use contrast style paints
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IhholrozptI

>How to Paint with Tremors
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oqp76vAJu9g

>Airbrush Priming and Thinning
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jkntrSBvXxE
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IGjBQzoukFg
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=00JVUxABe44
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AEqT_R41JX8

>Who's Johnny, she'd say, and smile in her special way
https://1d6chan.miraheze.org/wiki/Johnny

>Previous Threads:
>>97106446
>>97087108
>>97068486
>>97048058
>>
WIP Secret Santa archives

>2025
https://imgur.com/a/I2xxkxJ
>2024
https://imgur.com/a/g7MfJE5
>2023
https://imgur.com/a/e9QOmJJ
>2022
https://imgur.com/a/2OWxHpg
>2021
https://imgur.com/a/TKfeLxU
>2020
https://imgur.com/a/TeduVrJ
>2019
[REDACTED]
>2018
https://imgur.com/a/UWRYKEq
>2017
https://imgur.com/a/qS7PH
>2016
https://imgur.com/a/1fxhq
>>
>>97120677
I did a thing to Morty's gun, but not sure whether it's too much, too little or if I should stop here.
>>
>>97120870
Dunno what you're aiming for, but you probably shouldn't stop where you are.
>>
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Nearly done. I hate nmm on the spikes, need to blend some transitions and add some contrast to some areas.
>>
>>97120905
>>97120870
To clarify: Gun glow
>>
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Thanks Santa, anon.
This is great stuff! I'm glad you came up with good ideas, I was worried I was being a little vague, but these are all really good. There's even a whole ass saturnine praetor!
Thanks again, and Merry Christmas.

p.s. you also packed it very well. Well done.
>>
So what exact size/shape of brush do I need to freehand stuff? I've been told before that "fine detail" brushes are actually a trap and don't work well for it.
>>
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>>97120990
Script brush size 0, has a very fine point but a large belly so your paint doesn't fucking dry between the palette and the mini.
>>
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>>97120983
I'm also especially excited to paint this Kimera stuff, the detail on them is great.
>>
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>>97120686
TP from Louisiana, sorry for keeping you waiting.
>>
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>>97121337
Nice touch with the wax seal.
>>
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>>97121353
Spooked.
>>
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>>97121376
>>
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>>97121386
Now for the actual gift. You really went all out here.
>>
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>>97121399
The rest. I got to do something with the giant catfish.
>>
>>97120914
Good job! I especially like the sword

>>97121353
Looks cool
>>
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>>97121421
I'm liking the Lysette sculpt. And finally, the snacks. Thanks santa anon.
>>
>>97120938
Too little
>>
Primed my first mini's today, facking nerve racking but I think they turned out good, doesn't look like any details lost even though they are just zombicide minis to practice on. Went with a flat black primer, does the color of the primer really matter for base coats? Any merit for black vs grey vs white? I understand colored primers for same color spess marines but what about a mini that is not going to have just one majority color?
>>
>>97121740
whiter primer is easier to paint over because it requires less coats on top of it. black can also make it harder to spot the details while painting other colors.
>>
>>97121740
>Went with a flat black primer, does the color of the primer really matter for base coats? Any merit for black vs grey vs white?
Kinda. If the colour you use for your basecoat has somewhat poor coverage then painting a light colour over a black basecoat or a dark colour over white will be quite the pain in the ass. Even when coverage seems fine the primer can sometimes add an ever so slight tint as well, not directly noticeable but subtly affecting the mood (though enough layers of your basecoat will eventually cover that of course). Some metallic paints also really want a dark colour underneath, but I'm not so sure regular acrylics do. With this white/grey/black becomes a matter of what you paint on top, rather than any one of them just being better.
All this said though, using the "wrong" primer isn't the end of the world, it just means painting one or a few extra layers of your basecoat. Might even force you to learn to keep things properly thinned faster, as too thick will become painfully obvious as the layers build up and too thin will leave you painting approximately a billion layers to make it cover...
>>
>>97121740
personally, I prime everything black no matter what because it is much easier to use. white primers are easy to fuck up and end up with a weird textured result
>>
>>97121869
that's why grey is true patricians choice
>>
>>97121783
>>97121804
>>97121869
>>97121880
This did not help at all lmao
>>
>>97121918
On the contrary, seeing that there's more to it than you thought should be far more useful long term than some simple and dumbed down answer that fit the question you in your inexperience thought was the right thing to ask.
>>
>>97121970
Well, I am a house painter by trade so I have a good working idea, but I would never prime a wall black. I am not sure why I went with black to be honest, someones opinion on here. But I did find that I need GOOD lighting to properly see the mini now. I feel like white wouldn't help that fact so I am thinking about a beige or grey to try next
>>
>>97121918
lol my bad, basically
>black
Good for schemes with a lot of dark colors and/or metallics. Also the best one for hiding unpainted parts that are difficult to reach. Bright colors like yellow, orange and white are a nightmare to paint over it. People often say it's good because it gives you dark shadows you can build up from but vast majority basecoats everything with flat colors anyway.
>white
Most paints will cover it easily and also end up looking more vibrant. Should be your go-to choice for schemes with a lot of bright colors.
>grey
Middle ground between the two previous ones. You can choose either a brighter or darker grey depending on your scheme.
>>
>>97121740
>Any merit for black vs grey vs white?
Always keep in mind it's easier and quicker to go from white to black than the other way around.
Painting yellow over black is hard, so if you use yellow - just go white.
Lots of dark, then black.
Grey depends on preference, but it's easier to see the see the details on your mini compared to black.
>>
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Damn I took too long to try "contrast" paints.
This was my most low effort mini ever, just black primer, a drybrush zenital and one coat of each color.
I can see myself doing this for bigger horde armies
>>
>>97121988
>>97122027
>>97121988
Thanks this is the kind of answer I was looking for, they do all have their own uses. Was worried about doing white skin tones on the black primer, suppose I will have to get some more primer. But this is something I had not really thought of that will be helpful.
>best one for hiding unpainted parts that are difficult to reach
>>
>>97121985
Many people do a zenithal (mild spray from above with a ligher shade), that makes everything very clear.
>>
>>97122053
Yeah, it's fine if you just wanna pop out huge numbers of minis.
>>
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>>97121985
Use a shiny black or dark dark gray primer, by being shiny/satin makes it easier to see the details. Also you can drybrush an offwhite/white so the details pop even more.
I prime everything black, always
>>
>>97122101
Well I don't know if it is considered sacrilege here or not but I used the rustoleum painters touch 2x flat black. And checking online I cannot seem to find flat white. It is either paint + primer which I don't want or matte. But seeing your pics how the shiny helps details pop a bit I may try the matte. I am just worried about skin tones mainly as my main objective is to paint my sea of grey KDM
>>
>>97121444
Hope you enjoy the babes, creatures, and undead. The fish was labeled as a koi, but would look great as a catfish. Happy Christmas anon
>>
>>97122143
I mean use whatever works, but the best primer i have ever used is Vallejo Mecha Color
>>
>>97122074
nta but I think I'm gonna contrast slop my kriegsmen just to get the horde done with fast
>>
>>97121740
>>97121988
Anons should stop forgetting about browns, especially warmer browns. Priming with these is excellent for any military/green scheme, for yellow schemes, for painting skin, for natural stuff, etc. Imo the second most useful right after gray.

Also, get an airbrush. Stop thinking it's something "advanced". It's not. The moment you are certain you'll be sticking with the hobby, get a fucking airbrush, this is a threat.
>>
>>97121740
It could effect your paint depending on how translucent they are. Reds, whites and yellows paint like ass over straight up black but it could give you interesting effects like black primers giving your mini a more desaturated look.
https://youtu.be/gT2JV3Ks41g
These are for contrast paints but it should give you an idea.
>>
>>97122231
I have been meaning to buy an air brush just to prime. Any recommendations for air brushes? Or what should I be looking for in an airbrush? Chinadian tire always has a mastercrap compressor go on sale for like 100 CAD which I have been meaning to buy but I just hate mastercraft shit
>>
>>97122063
If you primed black its not the end of the world, you got options to mitigate. For example say you want to paint yellow but you primed black. Yellow is a famously transparent color and can take 5 or 6 coats over black to reach full opacity. So instead do a coat of brown, even one splotchy coat. Yellow will cover over brown a lot better than black, could even do a layer of yellow ochre or something over the brown to further bridge. Can do something similar for your skin tone, a coat of brown then maybe a coat of a dark red. Skin tones on top of that will lean a little warmer and red, something to try out and see if it works for you.
>>
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>>97117229
I liked this idea a lot. Only problem I'm having is what to do with the knee and shoulder pads. Don't want them to be metal, currently have them a different shade of brown for kind of a wood look but not sure if that's the direction I want to go.

Also God I hate white
>>
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>>97122267
Master G233, super basic airbrush with 3 sizes of needles/nozzles included. Has a needle chuck so you can easily limit how much paint you can spray at once, which is great for batch painting so your hand doesn't get cramped. It also takes standard fittings and generic replacement parts, truly a great little workhorse.
>>
>>97122295
Completely forgot to mention, retails around $40 or so.
>>
>>97122267
If you wanna go with chinesium, Fengda BD 180 is generally a good idea, it can do quite a lot for very cheap. It's a bit fragile, though. But with chink airbrushes it's always a compromise. If you wanna go with something fancier (and I would recommend that, I strongly dislike the "buy crap at first and graduate to better tool later" philosophy), then HS Ultra, Evolution, or even Infinity (the 2024 versions) are all great choices. Higher range Iwatas are also supposedly just as good if not better, but I don't have any personal experience with these.
>Or what should I be looking for in an airbrush?
Paint atomization (how smoothly it can spray), ease of maintenance and cleaning since you gonna be doing that often. So it should be nice, smooth, and fast, not making you get PTSD because of it (which is usually a weak spot for cheap/chink airbrushes), availability of spare parts. I would highly recommend airbrush with a nozzle that allows you to touch/clean the needle tip, too. Also, get something with ~0.2 (actual painting) and ~0.4 (priming/varnishing/etc.) nozzles/needles.
>>
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Do you keep any account of your pile of shame?
I'll be coming up on my 1st anniversary in the hobby, having started in January. A few months in I already knew building and painting had a grip on me like nothing else I'd been into in a long time. I don't think any hobby has dramatically affected my lifestyle as much as miniature painting has.
Around summer I knew I was already spending way more than I ever anticipated but I was happy where I was at, but maybe a little irreponsible. Months later I don't regret it.
I always had a mental tally but didn't document anything officially until today. I formulated an excel sheet of unbuilt > built+primed > finished boxes with MSRP and discounts for my wallet's sake and moving forward. I have to say the damage is greater than I'd hoped, but not worse than I feared. I am happy to see the monetary value of plastic across categories is conveniently within 10% of total values, which doesn't really mean anything except plastic is always moving through the pipeline I guess.
>>
>>97122359
No but its probably about $4k by now
>>
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>>97122295
>>
>>97122359
>the monetary value of plastic across categories is conveniently within 10% of total values
WTF does that mean?
>>
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>>97122359
There was a moment when I had way too much stuff in sealed boxes but this past year I bought very little and got my backlog down to only a couple kits.
>>
>>97122384
Sorry, that is a little confusing.
I mean I've got 3 columns of all my collection, Boxed, In-progress, and Done.
The total value of the 3 columns is about the same, within 10% of eachother.
>>97122361
That is very encouraging from where I'm at! lol
If that's only your unbuilt boxes at least. I may be in a similar boat soon...
>>
>>97122385
Cool! You're like the opposite of me!
>>
>>97122359
The Hobby is too expensive that I don't know how you guys buy more than you can work on.
>>
>>97120983
>this early in the month

???
>>
>>97122398
>The total value of the 3 columns is about the same, within 10% of eachother.
Interesting.
1/3 boxed isn't that bad for your first year, I was similar because stuff looks really cool but you never know how long it will take to paint. Although you should certainly reduce the pile of shame before buying more. I went on a buying freeze until I get at least a box finished up.
>>97122399
Consooming isn't the point of the hobby. Please tell me it isn't all new GW plastic.
>>97122402
If one's job pays well they probably have more money than time.
>>
>>97122359
Blessing in disguise that I never have enough disposable income to paypig out. I tend to buy a box or two at a time for the project I am working on or what the next project will be.
>>
>>97121022
Fine point, large belly, gotcha.
>>
>>97122359
I don't. It's a non-issue for as long as you are building/painting/kitbashing stuff out of that pile. There's this weird, unexplainable tendency to feel bad about buying new shit. This is a hobby like any other, if you are not hurting your regular cashflow/you are not getting into consoomer territories when you ONLY buy stuff but never do anything with it, then all is good.
>>
>>97122426
Yeah I'm def freezing for now. From releases I know are coming up, and stuff I am anticipating, I don't think I will be purchasing any major boxes at least next quarter. I won't deny possibly picking up random small units when I feel bored cause adhd. But if I lock in I could see getting everything out of the unbuilt side by spring.
>>
>>97122457
NTA but sable hair round brushes, #2-ish, are also really good. Forms a fine point that doesn't curl like synthetics.
Red sable is cheaper, still makes a great round brush but would be a little floppy as a script brush.
>>97122492
>I won't deny possibly picking up random small units when I feel bored
Yeah same, I grabbed a few Nolzur's minis and painted them up right away, they never were in the pile shame, it basically doesn't count lmao.
>>
>>97122482
>There's this weird, unexplainable tendency to feel bad about buying new shit.
Not at all. This kind of purchasing behavior was basically unheard of until the 20th century, except among the wealthy. Frugality is the norm.
You don't want to be a miser either but I don't think anyone in miniature painting is in danger of that.
>>
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based and varnished him
still some things to clean up and do differently for next time
>>
>>97122359
I kept slips for a while, but stopped. I think I'm around 400 right now, but most of those were early on. These days I paint with friends who 3d print but don't have the painting stuff, so we make a thing out of it every week. I'm not sure I could afford GW plastic
>>
>>97122634
Clean and crisp!
not planning any weathering, anon?
>>
>>97122634
Looks like PLASTIC. You need some highlights pls.
>>
>>97120983
>>97121087
Damn, Canada post outdid themselves. Glad you like it. Merry Christmas
>>
>>97122634
Looks solid
>>
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>>97122593
Anon I don’t agree with you that frugality is the norm but I will concede that it’s virtuous and should be practiced more. Myself included. And yes I doubt there are many poor fags in our hobby. But judging from posts made by said poor fags, it seems kind of exciting to make do with crappy/limited paints

>>97122482
I heard this sentiment a lot here as well.
>so long as said like of shame is being worked on don’t feel bad about it growing
But honestly it feels like a waste of money after a certain point. I’d rather have the cash on hand than a plastic kit. Not that you should feel bad about buying it, but why buy something now that can wait until later? We are not talking about water or food or a new coat. The minis aren’t going anywhere unless they’re for sure being replaced such as the new blightkings in age of sigmar or the 40k boxnaught

>>97122359.
Yes I keep a mental tally. 50 models used to feel daunting but my big focus right now is batch painting to a decent degree.
When I stop being able to recall all the plastic I have in the pile I start to worry.

Also it might be worth for you to invest in a 3d printer.
>>
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Is it weird that I want to copy ninjon’s style in his recent video. It is a good sweet spot between detail and speed for me like using dark base tones to simulate shadow and kind of “cheat” volume by fooling the eye.

https://youtu.be/ISsz0cfGpy0?si=eqvn1GxIkU0pVXLq
This Vince V video as well helped me a lot

https://youtu.be/Za9s-cQ1J_0?si=C4CiKK9I8bUIdJQ8

Pic rel was a recent guy I did that felt like a good first step.
>>
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>>97122634
It's a good night to paint up some Tau
>>
>>97122256
This has been enlightening, I am assuming some of those darker models could of been lightened up by another thin coat but he was doing just one coat of speed paint overtop of his base coats?
>>
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Banging out another goblin.
Painting the dress cream was a mistake.
>>
>>97123140
I think it works, but maybe brighten it up a bit and change the yellow.


Guys, I'd like some help please. I've been staring at this primes elf for a couple of weeks trying to figure out a color scheme for him (maybe link tunic inspired) and I'm drawing up blanks. Any suggestions?
>>
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>>97123149
Dangit
>>
I love the bloodletters model for some reason. They look like the quintessential demon character
My next steps are the horns, nails, and sword
>>
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>>97123149
>change the yellow.
Too late. Committed to it now.

>trying to figure out a color scheme for him
Sit down, slap paints onto your palette until you figure something out, and hope for the best when you put brush to model. That's what I do, and it usually works out alright.
>>
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>>97123169
Had to retake a photo from a corrupted file
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>>97120677
By sword, by axe, and by spear.
>>
>>97123186
Would
>>
>>97123241
power rangers
>>
Any Tau people have some Kroot color schemes they like? I'm having a hard time starting them because I have no idea what to paint them. It's just a unit of Carnivores.
>>
>>97123140
hey I recognize this goblin it's by that one artist who drew the cute centaur with the big cock
>>
>>97116555
>Nice! Is he meant to be english? I might steal those red and yellow stripes for a banner background for my orcs.
french actually. in this early 1400s period, the English tended to prefer wearing no fabrics over their armor, while the French preferred to wear colorful fabrics over theirs. But neither is a hard and fast rule.

The diagonal stripes would be a great banner design too, I agree.
>>97123276
Yah, I tried to do different major primary colors thing for that pic.
>>
>>97123186
That's what I did last time, and ended up stripping the model unfortunately.
How does zora tunic link sound to you? The tricky part would be the cloak
>>
>>97123153
Autumn colors, a nice burnt orange cape with yellow ochre robes and brown boots. Brown is just a desaturated orange when you think about it, and orange is made of yellow so it will all look good together. Throw in a complimentary spot color and skin tone is dealers choice.
>>
>>97123241
Nice tunic designs
>>
Does GW always re-use a pre-existing sculpt/model for mini of the month? Do they ever make something exclusive?
>>
>40 degrees Celsius with no aircon
I actually can't paint. The paint dries on the brush before it gets to the mini.
>>
>>97123337
i feel you fellow SH anon
my desert home dries my wet palette sheet in about 30 minsb
>>
>>97123375
>SH
I'm struggling to work this out. So Hot is all I can think of.
>>
>>97123337
that's why I use my tongue as a wet palate.
>>
I think I've fallen for GW marketing.
Picked up the mini of the month a couple hours ago and now I'm thinking about starting a deathwatch kt.
>>97123337
>>97123375
you guys don't have like a fan or something?
>>
>>97123387
I have a fan on, but all it's doing is pushing the hot air around.
>>
>>97123319
You could do a lighter blue, or a grey-blue. If that's too blue, painting the cloak a complementary brown is an option. You could always just say "fuck it, we ball" and go for a harder contrast with something like a mustard.
>>
>>97122267
a lot of people recommend the gsi creos brand sold by mr hobby. it has parts interchangeability with iwata and some people claim they're made in the same factory despite being significantly cheaper.
>>
>>97123459
they're very good, my ps270 sprays like a dream
>>
To the New Jersey anon who sent a SS gift to Japanon: the parcel has arrived.

I will open it on Christmas, so do not be dismayed if you see it appear here only later this month.
>>
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>>97122359
It comes and goes. I cut down to almost 0 for my admech pile. Its still pretty primetide but they are built and have paint on them so at least I get to play the game. I have a fully painted Chaos Knight army compared to last year so overall it's been pretty good for painting this year.
>>
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Does anyone use this? Or would I be better off with a brush on clear coat?
>>
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Working on my heresy era Iron Hands. Any ideas to make them better?
>>
>>97122359
I feel like I should keep a list so I know I'm not missing a part.
>>
>>97123595
I use it. Cant fault it however i havent used anything else
>>
>>97123093
He could but he's just demonstrating how speed paints look over different gradients.
Here's another interesting video you might find useful in the future.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mmnPkiiswPk
>>
>>97123337
You could balance it with humidity, but also you have to make sure you don't have a fan on and I imagine that would just make painting miserable in humid 40 degree weather with no fan.
It took me forever to realize that having my fan on was drying out my paints way faster.
>>
>>97123383
Southern Hemisphere.
>>97123694
Instead of putting the silver chipping all over you could focus on the edges with a smaller sponge or brush. The backpack and knees look good but the helmet and the gauntlet have chipping in wide areas and not on the edges.
I know you're not doing a glazing approach but you could use this IH recipe as an example of more controlled chipping. https://eavy-archive.com/other-games/loyalist-legions/
>>
>>97123383
southern hemisphere, it's summer down here right now
>>
Silly anons. It's winter right now. That means it's cold.
>>
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>>97123694
>Based retard medium
>>
>>97122875
>it seems kind of exciting to make do with crappy/limited paints
A lot of this hobby's magic happened when a "complete paint set" meant a pot of each color. I'm sure nostalgia plays a role but limitations add sovl. Compare pixel art with CGIslop.
Having done it myself, it's easy to get fixated on finding the perfect materials *long* past the point where it actually helps.
Lastly, limitation can help the aesthetic. Consider the Zorn palette. 4 paints, and as long as you don't *need* to depict blue or green, you don't miss the other paints at all.
>>
>>97121985
Black so you don't need to fuck around and paint underneath things or behind a shield ect
Save a massive amount of time
>>
>>97122063
Anon it's far easier to prime black and drybrush white than prime white and paint every single dark area by hand
>>
>>97122211
Fucking hate mecha primer with a passion
>>
>>97122267
Bought a ghaalieri one a few months ago, very happy, cheap, decent quality and they carry spares, good like getting spare o rings for passche
>>
>>97123956
Really? Why? It's possibly my favorite acrylic primer.
>>
>>97123956
Once you try lacquer primers you're never going back to anything else.
>>
>>97123947
gremlins will sound you with a bent airbrush needle if you don't paint over your all primer
>>
>>97123959
which model did you get? I noticed the brand is getting majorly shilled by a bunch of jewtubers. does it seem like it's going to fall apart after a year or two?
>>
>>97123975
I love mr hobby surfacer
But my wallet....
>>
Hey A.S. from Stockholm. You might want to collect your parcel from Post Nord. They wont keep it forever there and it will get destroyed, not shipped back, in case it can not be delivered.
>>
>>97124053
You know, I didn't think really think about it before but it's pretty wholesome we have anons from so many different parts of the world participating in SS.
>>
>>97124045
I mean it should last you a while unless you prime like a whole army every month or something
>>
K.J.U. from NK, your package is on its way. I got some funny looks from the guy at the post office though.
>>
>>97124140
Great! Thanks for the update, anon!. Glory to the thread.
>>
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Finished a pack of giant rats
>>
>>97123153
>>97123149

https://labs.tineye.com/color/
throw an image you like in there and wah lah
>>
Good morning.
I dreamt that I had lots of different kinds of sandpaper.
>>
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>>97123282
Here's my scheme
>>
>>97124264
Not the poster, but I'm still waking up and I was curious about this thing you shared. Used it without reading, then had a little chuckle. I don't think this is what you meant, but hey, haha, that's pretty neat.
>>
>>97124272
Good morning anon. What an interesting dream.
>>
>>97122923
Copying is a grreat way to improve and there's nothing wrong with it.
>>
>>97122923
It is weird that you actually watch that stupid fucking faggot but there's nothing wrong with copying someones style per se.
>>
which brushes are long and thin? I can't tell just from their size
>>
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>>97123956
Is the best primer i have tried by far. Its easy to apply, it DOES NOT cover any details even if you leave a puddle. It does not come off in any way.

Also, update on my low effort tyranid. Just touched up the base a bit and some quick 10 min highlight and its more than enough for an army
>>
>>97124272
Sounds rough.
>>
Do any of you know of a varnish thats closer to the finish of citadel paints? Every time i just see ULTRA MATTE, satin or glossy varnishes. Satin is too glossy already, i just want a simple matte because i love that sutle satin look
>>
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>>97124506
>>
>>97124526
I always recommend doing a 1:1 mix of satin and matte, looks really nice. Works even with metallics since it doesn't dull them out completely
>>
>>97124542
Hmm thats a good idea, i don't know why i didn't think of mixing varnishes lmao, ty anon
>>
>>97124558
>>
The weather has been sitting around minus twenty lately. This is too cold for rattle can primer in the dooryard, right?
>>
>>97124595
Warm the can in a bit of warm water. Should last you long enough to prime.
>>
>>97124595
Warm it up in warm water, then spray it just outside your door, in quick bursts as you should, then get back inside and warm it up if you need to when it starts getting too cold.
>>
>>97124624
NTA but bubble wrap helps preserve heat a bit, little trick I learned recently.
>>
>>97124506
CARLOOS
>>
>>97124642
Most thermal insulation is at its core simply a lot of trapped air. So that bubble wrap works... yeah.
>>
>>97124642
>>97124624
>>97124600
Good ideas, thanks
>>
>>97124506
Nah, it was fine, if a little weird.
>>
>>97124839
When warming the rattle can in the water be sure to shake it really well and flip the can a couple times so its a nice consistent temp. Once the spray starts to weaken stop priming, the can is getting too cold and it will start to sputter and spit shortly.
>>
>>97123984
Got that barbos rex one, whatever he's called after he shilled it on jewtube, I trust his reviews on airbrushes and wanted to try a AB with a pistol grip instead of the usual trigger, honesty I was really impressed, I also have a top of the line procon boy, quality brand that should be cheap with the falling yen
>>
>>97123974
Had very frustrating experiences with the grey, too thin straight out the bottle, ruined my minis, just a absolute mess, turned me off ABing primer altogether
Now I can it
>>
>>97124045
Is it that Mr surfacer stuff? I somehow got sent a jar of that by mistake and have never even opened it
>>
Is there any sort of thing that you can hook onto a brush that like suspends and stabilizes it for fine detail work?

I have tremors and can't just hold things and paint fine details
>>
>>97125315
>tremors
there's a video on the op dedicated to that
>>
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>paying a visit to local electronic shops to find some negative ion or high voltage generator for static grass applicator, following advice from another anon from previous thread
>nowhere to be seen
>online shops have 400kV (!) and 40kV modules instead

Fug. With such high values, I guess I would risk accidentally creating an arc during work.
>>
>>97125315
Start taking beta blockers
But yeah just watch the video in the OP
>>
>>97125315
Affix the model to your brush holding hand so the tremors move both the brush and the model in sync
>>
>>97124463
Primer straight out of the pot, right?
>>
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Varnish test, thought it might be useful to someone else.
GW Munitorum Varnish, Army Painter Antishine, AK Varnish Matt (thoinned with a bit of Vallejo thinner IIRC), Alclad Klearkote Flat (straight from the bottle), Tamiya XF-86 Flat Clear (thinned with Mr Levelling Thinner)
First two rattlecans, last three airbrushed.
Black undercoat slopped on with little care, so the globbiness and such is in that rather than the varnish.
The left of each spoon has been given a light mist coat (or as close as I could get with the rattlecans), right side s a heavier "wetcoat". Middle stripe with AK painted on with brush. And finally the necks were given a new coat of the black again for comparison’s sake.
>>
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>>97125438
another data point
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>>97125504
You should have varnished the base not the wood
>>
>>97125438
Great sample if you're painting wood miniatures?
>>
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Aspiring Champion done, ready to lead his mates to raid and pillage
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>>97125438
This reminds me of a girl I used to know who would rub non-disposable chopsticks against each other before using them.
>>
>>97125504
1:1 seems like the best option. I want something that won't kill my metals but also won't leave that plastic-y sheen.
>>
>>97125294
does that one come with the . 7 needle? I'm interested if you can spray cerakote through it.
>>
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>>97125687
>1:1 seems like the best option
>>
>>97125315
Video in the op, or look up bracing techniques. I also have tremors from nerve damage so what works for me is:
>chair high enough that my feet can be flat on the floor comfortably
>mini on painting handle, handle in left hand
>brush in right hand
>put my wrists together, reduces tremors in both hands
>back of left hand (near the blade of my hand) on the desk to stabilize both hands further
>left elbow on elbow rest of chair, right elbow on right hip, further stabilizes hands
Not all positions will work for you and how you like to sit so try a few out and see what feels comfortable.
>>
>>97125315
put the part in a vise and use your off hand to brace your painting hand. I keep saying this but everyone acts like I'm retarded but what the fuck do they know? that's how you engrave jewelry and how you inlet wood.
>noo this detailed manual work is different from that detailed manual work because my favorite jewtuber doesn't do it that way
>>
>>97124256
Skeezy!
>>
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>tfw the christmas gift from me for myself arrived
didn't think it would arrive so fast
pretty hyped ngl
>>
>>97125904
Wow! What did that guy get you?
>>
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>>97125904
>>
>>97124264
Huh, that's pretty cool
>>
>>97125817
I'm not that anon, but lel.
I was just replying out loud.
>>
>>97125912
Whats that? Transfer sheets?
>>
I am very interested in the Master G233 airbrush, but does anyone have any experience with the Master TC-320 compressor?
>>
>>97126013
Stencils for stamping anon, read the package in the pic and employ deductive reasoning.
>>
>>97126013
https://www.youtube.com/shorts/OybfN2crkRE
stamping kit made by the guy who has ALLEGEDLY a bunch of women in his basement
I thought I'd help a fellow enthusiast out and buy the kit
>>
>>97125315
Ativan
>>
>>97125632
Turn your ai filter off so we can see what it actually looks like
>>
>missed SS again

maybe next year
>>
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>>97125912
>he actually bought the meme sloptuber stamps
>>
>>97125904
>>97125912
happy christmas anon
i hope you enjoy your gift
>>
>>97125314
Indeed. Grab a bottle of this leveling thinner (unfortunately also expensive, but it is worth it) and you've got a dream airbrush primer. I keep a stockpile of Mr surfacer 1500 and leveling thinner for when I need an extra sturdy detail perserving primer or just special occations.
>>
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>>97126283
Forgot pic
>>
Stahly reviews the new Vallejo paints. They're looking pretty nice. Maybe they'll expand the range further.
Wish he'd put them on the big 7-in-1, but if a generous anon does happen to get the swatch, be aware it seems he's gotten wise to people sharing it.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uR-xSSRi1Cs
>>
>>97126338
jesus fucking christ this feels like watching an advertisement not a review
>>
>>97126372
I got second hand embarrassment watching it because of that. But the paints are honestly pretty good, the imperial gold has become my new favorite gold. Haven't tried the greens or blues, but golds and silvers are nice imo
>>
>>97126471
I'm hoping I can replace my current gold recipe with one of those new TMM ones because I'm tired of mixing Aluminium from the big metal color bottles and Retributor Gold.
>>
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Man, this gift has everything. Thanks a ton Anon!
>>
>>97126372
It is an advertisement, duh.
>>
While we're on the topic of youtube eceleb stuff anyway
>new hobby cheating video
>how to get perfect blends
>"well, you just layer and blend really gradually until it's perfect"
Wow, thanks Vince.
>>
>>97126471
>the paints are honestly pretty good
Vallejo paints being good isn't new, it's only newsworthy in the event that they're not good, in which case a shilltuber wouldn't tell you.
>>
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>>97126485
Some Close ups of the stuff and the hand-drawn banner. I don't have any the older goblins models, so this a huge come-up for me.
>>
>>97126496
NTA, but I'm pretty certain even shilltubers were talking about Speedpaints 1.0 reactivating issues and Vallejo new recipe bubbling.
I hope I don't summon that one autist.
>>
>>97126485
>>97126501
That's awesome, anon nailed it.
>>
>>97126338
>Wish he'd put them on the big 7-in-1, but if a generous anon does happen to get the swatch, be aware it seems he's gotten wise to people sharing it.
He tried putting trackers into the last pdf (or shit that looked like trackers, it's always kinda hard to tell with pdf metadata), but I'm unaware there's anything else beyond that. I haven't watched the latest video.

My access link still works. So if he updates it, I'll post it, naturally.
>>
>>97126496
Yeah, I agree vallejo paints are generally pretty good. They're my favorite, I have some AK paints that also really like. But I was surprised with the gold specifically because finding a good gold is hard (at least for me). Also don't listen to what the dude on the video says, I'd still water the paints and shades down with some water
>>
>>97126338
>buy my swatch
>buy these paints
>buy airbrush versions of these paints because apparently you're too retarded to add retarded and thinner yourself
>buy these drybrushes
>buy my swatch(again)
words cannot express how much I hate these fucking assholes
>>
>>97126522
add retarder* fucking phoneposting
>>
>>97126516
Unfortunately he's not gonna put them in the 7-in-1, went to the patreon post and he said it's not going on there for now.
>>97126522
I just tune out the advertising at this point and mostly watch the actual paint working.
>>
>>97126522
To be fair he says at the end the airbrush versions are pretty unnecessary.
>>
>>97126538
>Unfortunately he's not gonna put them in the 7-in-1, went to the patreon post and he said it's not going on there for now.
any reason why?
>>
>>97126568
so he can sell it seperately for more money, duh
>>
What's a good airbrush for someone who's never used one before and isn't very good at miniature painting to begin with?
Thinking about asking my dad for one for Christmas.
>>
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>>97126490
imagine how back in the day we made due with just a list of paints and a box art
now we complain about a step-by-step youtube videos not having enough steps
>>
>>97126582
Start out with any somewhat cheap one to dip your feet imo. Just get a decent compressor, you can always upgrade the brush later. There's a couple amazon bundles that come with a compressor and something like a Master g233 for around $100. You can stick with that brush, as a primer workhorse at least, pretty much forever. If you know you want something a bit better in quality and application, gaahleri has better brushes at a variety of prices. I only recommend starting with a throwaway brush at first cause if you break a part accidently its easy to find replacements. Not that you cant find replacements for any brush desu
>>
>>97126622
>I only recommend starting with a throwaway brush at first cause if you break a part accidently its easy to find replacements
You can get replacements easily and usually fairly cheaply to any kind of brush. I would recommend anon going with something nicer, there's no reason to buy cheap airbrush if you don't have to: oftentimes you are crippling yourself because the cheap airbrush can only prime and/or is an absolute travesty to clean/maintain.
>>
>>97126622
NTA, but I got a $50 one from amazon that came with it's own small USB compressor. Works well for priming models so far. It was also good for base coating my Armigers. I haven't done anything fancy with it yet.
>>
>>97126622
>Start out with any somewhat cheap one to dip your feet imo
This is what people usually say and I know this is probably good advice. However, I got a H&S Evolution as my first airbrush and it's still fine up to this day. Just watch some videos/read a couple guides on how to care about it and you're all good.
>>
Since somebody mentioned airbrush - I try to incorporate it into my work and while I admit it have some very good uses and is overall useful tool, I simply cannot get over how much time it require to setup compared to normal brush. With latter I simply need to fill wet palette sponge with water and slap some baking paper on it, fill cup with water and voila, when done throw away paper, squeeze out sponge, wash brushes with soap and done. Meanwhile with airbrush I need to take and place cardboard on desk, take box with compressor and cable from cabinet, connect and let it load, connect airbrush and when I'm done the worst part - spray-clean with cleaner, then with water, remove nozzle and needle, clean them both, put everything together again, release air from the tank, put everything back into where they supposed to be. Plus occasionally cleaning during the work because something is not working properly. Way too much work, sometimes even two hours of setup & cleaning afterwards, easily more time cleaning than actually painting.
>>
>>97126664
Yeah. It’s something that rarely comes up when discussing airbrushes or in hobby videos. It’s a big space investment/ requirement if you don’t want the hassle of setup and break down EVERY TIME. I like the results and can use mine reasonably but I rarely take it out because it’s so annoying to start and finish using it.
>>
>>97126664
>two hours of setup
Do you have parkinsons or something? Setting up and cleaning take 5-10 minutes each.
>>
>>97126649
It's not a good advice. "Buy crap and graduate to good tools later" is nonsense with this hobby. If you are not a complete mongoloid, you are not going to damage, let alone destroy these tools. There's virtually no rational reason to buy a shit chinkbrush that will at best give you kinda sorta okay tool with limited use, and completely sour your experience with airbrush at worst.

>>97126664
>two hours of setup & cleaning afterwards
Anon what the fuck. Cleaning between colors is literally seconds, and the main end session cleaning is five minutes tops. What airbrush do you own and what kind of witchery are you doing with it?
Also, it kinda sounds like a setup problem; I keep my compressor under my desk, connecting is literally ~1 second with quick attachment.
>>
>>97126636
I wouldnt recommend a trash brush. But something around 40 bucks like the g233 is a good brush to genuinely consider at as a first brush. Speaking from experience as someone who broke multiple parts on it learning brushing, replaced parts, and still uses it after graduating to a gaahleri mobius and tamiya brush.
>>
>>97126664
yeah its annoying
only good thing in my opinion about airbrush is the aspect of priming indoors. Painting is annoying and not really worth investing time into because in the end you will use a brush for cleaning up and the fine detail
so why bother
classic brush all the way
>>
>>97126679
>Cleaning between colors is literally seconds
what's the best way to clean between colors?
>>
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>>97126677
Mine takes hour or two. No, I don't have Parkinson. What now?

>>97126679
Color change is indeed quick but after work cleaning takes longer since it involve taking airbrush apart to clean needle. I know that some people don't clean needle after every use, meanwhile after each time I take it out, there is always some paint left on the needle so it's obligatory in my case.

>what airbrush
Local model, probably Fengda copy. And don't tell me to buy H&S instead, I won't pay 1/3 of minimal wage for some hobby tool.
>>
>>97126713
Flush with water and isopropyl if its from acrylics. Or a hardware store lacquer thinner otherwise. Paper towel and a old synthetic brush. Dont overclean, dont bother taking the needle out if you dont see dried paint on it, just wipe and flush (toilet humor). Take about 30 seconds between paints, then a 5 minute full cleanup when youre done.
>>
>>97126725
>Mine takes hour or two. No, I don't have Parkinson. What now?
I dunno what to tell you man, you might be retarded or something.
>>
>>97126725
why not just store the whole thing in IPA if the cleaning is that big chore or do you enjoy it
and yes i know the meme how IPA dissolves rubber caskets over time but you can always store them saparately
t. eri
>>
>>97126713
Remove whatever is left into some cup, pour cleaner solution inside, spray everything into cleaning cup while moving trigger back and forth, repeat with clean water. You might also try backflow (gently block front part with fingers making air blow back when pressing trigger) but it's not necessary.
>>
>>97126713
>take some empty container. I use plastic box with paper in the bottom.
>hold your airbrush above, canted
>take a bottle with applicator nozzle; the ones for ketchup work fine, but any sport bottle will do, too
>squirt inside your paint cup with some force, aiming directly inside the airbrush. keep going until mostly/only clean water comes out
>spray the rest of the water through your airbrush
Done. If you wanna be fancy, you can backbraaap/spray out cleaner.
I generally recommend this video to anyone who is struggling with airbrush cleaning: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qN1w-7ShK08 It's the same process, more or less.
>>
>>97126725
>Won't spend money on good tools
>Wonders why everything requires more time and effort
It sounds like the problem is you, not the tools anon
>>
>>97126725
Case in point, then. Cleaning any normal airbrush is fast and easy.
>>
>>97126733
I tend to overanalyze and overthink everything. In this case it includes checking if I did all steps in correct order (makes sense when I have 3L tank with compressed air) and taking apart/putting together everything very slowly (again, makes sense since first time I took airbrush apart, I broke nozzle thread from screwing it too hard with attached tool, now I do it with fingers).
>>
>>97126725
>Mine takes hour or two. No, I don't have Parkinson. What now?
Then you're doing something horribly wrong.
>>
>>97126748
>just don't be poor

Really?
>>
>>97126772
>shit cheap tool that will make me hate using it
>saving up money to buy good tool that I will enjoy using
It's a very difficult decision, yes.
>>
>>97126777
I'm tired of this bullshit. How is spending 4-5 times more money going to magically makes cleaning easier? In principle, it's the very same tool.
>>
>>97126725
>Mine takes hour or two.
How the actual fuck is this possible?
Setup
>taking out the compressor and turning it on so it fills while you do other shit ~2 minutes
>getting your cleaner,thinner,water,cleaning cup etc ~2 minutes
>setting up your fume hood if you use one ~2 minutes
Cleaning up takes roughly the same with a couple minutes added to properly wash your shit. If you said like half an hour I could believe you're just being very thorough or something but 2 hours? I really cannot imagine that
>>
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my first ever priming...

wish me luck boys
>>
>>97126805
Don't die Anon
>>
>>97126805
post pupper
>>
>>97126796
see >>97126745
If you can't do that with your airbrush, it's a shit airbrush. If you can't do it for some unexplainable autistic reason, you might be suffering from terminal sperg.

>>97126805
Good luck anon, welcome to a very cool hobby.
>>
>>97126772
If you're going to judge all airbrushing based on your tools then, yeah, don't get shitty tools.
>>
>>97126485
>>97126501
Glad you enjoyed the box. My apologies for not having an 80mm base for the resin Mangler Squigs or the 20 25mm slotta bases for the archers. Looking forward to seeing how you paint the goblins from the 80s. Not much detail but man do they have soul.
>>
>>97126805
reminds me of the anon who sprayed his army on his kitchen floor and his mom yelled at him because he ruined the whole floor
godspeed anon
>>
>>97126805
Make sure there's no dog hair on them.
>>
>>97126825
>anon who sprayed his army on his kitchen floor and his mom yelled at him because he ruined the whole floor
Never change.
>>
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>>97126817
Forgot to upload the pic of my 80s GW goblins. be sure to use the included plastic shields glued over the round hubs on the models as was the standard for that period.
>>
>>97126814
Any airbrush can do that, I fail to see how spending 300€ instead of 50 will magically makes the process easier/faster or remove necessity to clean needle after work. No ill intent here, just want to know.
>>
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>>97126842
Bonus points for freehanding designs on the shields.
>>
>>97126846
>Any airbrush can do that
Then why it takes 2 hours in your case? Perhaps because removing/cleaning/inserting the needle is either not needed with my nonchink brush, or in case it is, I can do it under a minute?
>>
>>97126858
Again, I fail to see how it's not needed just because you paid more. That's the whole point I'm trying to explain - what makes your expensive tool different than mine so somehow your flushing makes it completely clean. And as for linked video - author himself notes how after flushing he still have SOME paint left, which in my book shouldn't be left to keep drying. Even manual attached to my airbrush suggested not to take it apart after each session and instead just flush and remove needle/nozzle only when they gets blocked/behave incorrectly but here we are.
>>
>>97126582
>>97122267
>>97122295
A few recs and my own from further up.
>>
>>97126902
I ask you again, if any airbrush can do that and there are no differences between airbrushes, then what is the reason it takes you 2 hours, compared to seconds for in between colors, and roughly five to ten minutes for the final cleanup?
>>
>>97126931
probably because he's exaggerating
>>
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Im trying to come up with a recipe for maggotkin armour before my darkwater box arrives
>>
>>97126931
I said "1 to 2 hours" for everything - setup and cleaning after, that's one. Two, it varies between paints as AK for example gets cleared easily while last time I used Vallejo new Game Color, one of their purples to be more precise, I had to rinse and flush 4 times to get rid of it for some reason (and it somehow still had thick paint layer dried on inside part of needle, as if it somehow leaked over seal - none other colors afterwards and before did that I have no fucking idea why). Three, you still don't explain how expensive airbrush is supposed to be different than cheaper one, all I keep hearing is "it's better" and I want to know WHY it's better. That's the key to understand how to get around the problems.
>>
>>97126955
That also possible since I got emotional here and back then.

I wish to apologise for causing little shitstorm.
>>
Is there a good metallic blue for tzeentch armor anyone can recommend?
>>
>>97126979
I'm sure you can find one in the new Vallejo® True Metallic Metal™ range with its extremely innovative BSL™ system!
>>
>>97126968
improving you technique would do more than a more expensive airbrush
>>
>>97126968
If you're open to some feedback I have a couple things that may help you.
1. A couple drops of thinner in the cup first before you add any paint. This will help keep the paint from getting right up next to the needle gasket near the nozzle and drying into a clog. Especially if you mix your paint in your cup this will help stop clogs before they start.
2. Mix in smaller batches of paint in the airbrush. It takes less time to water rinse the airbrush and mix more paint than it does to have to do a full disassemble and clean. One of the ways we commonly get clogs is paint drying in the cup near the rim/top and sliding down towards the nozzle.
3. Light machine oil/sewing machine oil/needle juice, when you disassemble your airbrush to clean put a drop or two of the oil on a paper towel and gently run the needle through it. Don't need much and you don't want the needle dripping, just a light coating. Helps to keep the needle from sticking to gaskets and any tiny bits of paint that may have stuck around won't stick to the oil. Do a quick water rinse before you mix in paint when you paint again.
4. If you get clogs or your climate is dry try a mix of thinner and flow improver. 80:20 or 70:30 thinner to flow improver really helps keep clogs at bay.
Big part of cleaning the airbrush can be preemptive to keep it from getting too skuzzy to begin with.
>>
>>97126968
>I want to know WHY it's better.
I already told you. It's built in a way that cleaning and maintenance is fast and easy. The tolerances, materials, and finish inside is also very different, which means, among other things, easier and faster cleaning. Things like "somehow leaking over seal" don't happen, either.
And you did not answered the question. Why does it take you up to two hours, while ten minutes tops total is normal? Since you are clearly unable to answer it, let me do it for you; it's because 1) your airbrush is bad, and 2) your airbrushing/cleaning/preventive technique is bad. All important, all matter.
Don't be a sperg who judges the entirety of the airbrush market because you bought chink garbage, anon.
>>
>>97127003
>I'm sure you can find one in the new Vallejo® True Metallic Metal™ range with its extremely innovative BSL™ system!
I didn't know these existed lol.
Yeah the Saphire one is exactly what im looking for, thank you vallejo Marketing person.
>>
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I think they turned out okay? The white looks a little spotty when it's zoomed with the camera but looks fine in my hand. The videos I watched said it should be almost completely white with the zenithal so maybe I could have used another pass or two with the white but I think it turned out good.
>>
>>97127114
Oh dear...
>>
>>97127114
>completely white with the zenithal
No, they should be white on top and black at the bottom. Either way, they shouldn't be spotty. What's the weather like where you live?
>>
>>97127036
Didn't hear the oil advice before, I appreciate sharing it.

>>97127049
Told you already, I do it slowly and carefully to avoid doing any damage. I could push needle from the back fast, for examples but that could break or bend it if it's not aligned properly. I could easily break nozzle thread if I don't do that carefully simply because it's very thin piece of metal further thinned by existence of the thread section. And so on.

>Don't be a sperg who judges the entirety of the airbrush market because you bought chink garbage, anon.

I will simply admit that this is too expensive tool to use and stick to brush and sponge instead. It was a mistake for me to buy one in first place. Wasted money.
>>
>>97127114
White primer has struck again
>>
>>97127163
>I could push needle from the back fast, for examples but that could break or bend it if it's not aligned properly. I could easily break nozzle thread if I don't do that carefully simply because it's very thin piece of metal further thinned by existence of the thread section. And so on.
All of these are a non-issue with a good airbrush, anon.
>Wasted money
It's a good example of the old saying about being too poor to buy cheap things.
>>
>>97127184
>All of these are a non-issue with a good airbrush, anon

More expensive airbrush nozzle is not made out of some mysterious indestructible alloy, it's still very thin section of metal that WILL break with too much force. Probably that's why new models seems to move towards threadless setup instead. Same for needle.

>It's a good example of the old saying about being too poor to buy cheap things.

More like "you can't comfortably drive some family model Toyota, you need to buy Lamborghini instead".
>>
>>97127163
>I could push needle from the back fast, for examples but that could break or bend it if it's not aligned properly.
that should still just take a couple of seconds
>I could easily break nozzle thread if I don't do that carefully
how often are you removing the nozzle?
>>
>>97127163
>I could easily break nozzle thread if I don't do that carefully simply because it's very thin piece of metal further thinned by existence of the thread section. And so on.
My first airbrush, a cheapass Chinese noname one, was just like that.
The H&S Evolution I bought after the first one broke isn't.
>>
>>97126582
https://spraygunner.com/collections/airbrush-gsi-creos-mr-airbrush/products/gsi-creos-mr-airbrush-procon-boy-ps-274-0-3mm
this one isn't too expensive but it's good enough to use forever. replacement parts are easy to get so even if you somehow break something you can fix it without worry.
>>
>>97127211
>More like "you can't comfortably drive some family model Toyota, you need to buy Lamborghini instead".
Fuck no. Toyota is not a particularly cheap brand, and they are known for being extremely reliable. A "Toyota airbrush" is what you're being told to buy. Whgat you have is more, well... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GEQw3tB6knI&list=PLWpVvJ8o7wzzrYzCTCryFI5GM4hgDRcE_
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>>97125429
yes, no dilution

wish me luck /wip/
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>>97127211
Anon, you need to stop coping. You bought garbage, that doesn't mean every other thing is garbage, as well. Things like needle wells/guides, exist, just like titanium nozzles, better coating, etc.
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>>97127114
that's mega dry sprayed. either the weather was too hot when you were doing it or you were holding the can too far away from the parts. you should try stripping it and doing it again before you continue. any effort painting over that is going to be wasted.
>>
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I'm working on the meat dragon. Trying to get the right shade on the base coats before I start highlights.
>>97127254
Gladiator, I salute you. If you have the motivation, roll with it

>>97121869
>>97121740
I've primed about 2000 models with brush on vallejo black primer. On anything larger than a 60mm base monster I use a rattle can of matte white for vehicles and large terrain/creatures. I've also used the army painter line of spray cans and they've been fine.
>>
>>97127215
>how often are you removing the nozzle?

Every time I take out needle because I was told to always remove it from the front, to avoid potentially getting any kind of paint or such into air section behind the cup.

>>97127222
Well, truth to be told, that nozzle that broke for me was from cheapest available airbrush I got along with equally cheap "airbrush + mini-compressor" set. Replacement nozzle was just fine but I won't test durability of any other. I don't even use said airbrush anymore since it was pain in the ass to force it to actually work, let alone clean.

>>97127251
Can't agree since when I took a look at my local shops offer, I saw very cheap Chinese simple models, more expensive but reasonably priced better variants, then large gap and finally absurdly expensive H&S, Tamiya and some Badger models (but mostly just first two). In such case, my example with Lamborghini fits (and sorry for using Toyota then, I can't really tell cars apart).
>>
>>97127322
If anything else than most expensive model is garbage then I can only regret not knowing this earlier so I would avoid buying anything at all.
>>
>>97127357
the one I linked here is only $100 and goes on sale for less. if that's "absurdly expensive" you unironically need to give up on this hobby until you aren't as poor because you sure can't afford gw prices either.
>>97127248
>>
So I have been looking at trying my hand at sculpting some pieces for my little dudes. What are recommended tools and materials for the job? Miliput? Green stuff?
>>
>everything sucks, but at least I'm not wasting money like you
Is the shitbrush anon craftsperg?
>>
>>97127370
I'm not living in US.

>>97127373
Please, I'm not THAT autistic, only slightly.
>>
>>97127350
you have been working on that thing for like 3 months at this point going back and forth trying to decide what do with it
i remember when you started and you said no there will be no retro purple on this thing and now it is basically all purple
not a fan of realistic paintjobs but as it is now the red on that neck will really pop out
>>
>>97127370
Also, if it would cost me equivalent of 100$ or less, I would get it without any fuss. Here it goes for equivalent of 170$.
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>>97126522
>>97126538
Get the sponsorblock extension for youtube. Works great in Brave and Chrome if you're still using that. You can set it up to autoskip both sponsor shilling and self promotion.

https://chromewebstore.google.com/detail/sponsorblock-for-youtube/mnjggcdmjocbbbhaepdhchncahnbgone?hl=en
>>
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>>97127157
>>97127323
It's sunny and 70 out

I warmed both the cans in warm water for a few minutes and shook them both a good amount... but yeah I must have been too far back with the white while I was thinking to myself "45 degree angle from above"

how wasted are we talking here? it'll be my first time painting so it's not like I'm expecting 500 upvotes on r*ddit type results
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>>97127387
I started this mid October but it feels like 3 months. I really wanted to add the purple and make it work. This is the largest model I've worked on outside of a few Warmachine gargantuans/colossus so I'm a bit out of my element. I can now envision the final end so I'm motivated. This won't be finished for a few more weeks.

>>97127370
I started with a badger patriot which used to be $60 or so. Then went to Iwata for my next 2 airbrushes and they've been great. I did have to replace the nozzle+pin a few times over 6 years.
>>
>>97127417
70 in Fahrenheit? That's around 20C, almost ideal temperature for spraying. Unless you didn't shake cans enough (1-2minutes of shaking), there is also nasty possibility that you got bad batch.
>>
What's that liquid for smoothing the transitions of transfers?
I trust WIP more than Google
>>
>>97127394
lets be real here grzegorz even $170 isn't that expensive in the scheme of things. a good cordless drill will cost about that much and a decent stick welder will be even more. also I don't know what gw prices are like in yurup but here in america a battleforce is fucking $250 and a single character is $45.
>>
>>97127448
Micro sol and micro set?
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>>97127448
microsol/microset and mr mark setter/mr mark softer
>>
>>97127417
No problems, learning is fun. Probably sprayed too far away, causing the paint droplets to dry a little in mid air.
I can't tell how textured the surface of the minis is from the photo, but you can just paint them, if it turns out really bad you can always strip the paint and try again.
>>
>>97127417
with rattlecans you should be about 8" away when you spray. if you had them on the floor or something and were standing up you were probably way too far away. you should start over because with that dry sprayed application you aren't getting any of the benefits you want from the primer and instead are getting negatives.
>>
>>97127470
Let this be a lesson, always have a test mini. Be it a spare GW mini, a cheap reaper bones or d&d mini, even just go to a warhammer store and ask for the free mini of the month, doesn't matter. Test mini will save your life, test out spray/washes/glazes/pinlines/etc. on the test mini so you know exactly how the paint will behave ahead of time.
>>
>>97127394
Evolution (the double nozzle version, btw) is like 220 EUR. Considering it's an excellent airbrush through and through that with proper maintenance might be the last airbrush you'll ever buy, it's not that much of a difference. You probably paid more for the minis this year.

>>97127460
>>97127464
Microsol/set is fine, but you can just get VMS Decal Set and Soften. It's (slightly) better than Microsol/set, and it comes in one bottle.
>>
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>>97127460
>>97127464
>>97127482
Thanks anons
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>>97127470
it happens sometimes and to be honest its a complete mystery
everyone has their own versions with reddit -tier broscience beign the most familiar to all, youve heard them too like too cold too damp too hot too cold too dry too close too far
few weeks ago i primed model outside in rain when it was -1c and wind speed around 7 meters per second with no problem, few years ago i posted a model that i primed in i think it was -35celsius
you do you and you will find what works eventually
>>
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Thanks for this lovely gift anon.
When i just wrote I like demons, mutants and undead was i not prepared for an entire trench crusade war band consisting of exactly that. I had recently been looking in to that game and this throws me right in to the deep end.
Also, the lego parakeets were also a really nice touch. Guess they also pass as mutants/demons/undead now.
Thank you and merry Christmas to all of WIP
>>
Well I am pretty much sold on the Master G233 airbrush. But no one has experience with the Master TC-320 compressor?
Looking at this https://www.ebay.ca/itm/143633190882?
What are the decent cost friendly options for air brush compressors?
>>
>>97127536
I bought the same airbrush through that company and have had no issues (apart from me learning). I got the same compressor but with a tank and have no complaints.
>>
>>97126842
>be sure to use the included plastic shields glued over the round hubs on the models as was the standard for that period.
I'm not entirely sure what you mean by this.
>>
>>97127357
>Can't agree since when I took a look at my local shops offer, I saw very cheap Chinese simple models, more expensive but reasonably priced better variants, then large gap and finally absurdly expensive H&S, Tamiya and some Badger models (but mostly just first two). In such case, my example with Lamborghini fits (and sorry for using Toyota then, I can't really tell cars apart).
Well, perhaps the one store you were apparently in just had the high end H&S, etc. Those cost a fair bit. But if we're talking something like an Evolution 2-in-1 then, yeah, no. That's a mid range airbrush at a mid range price (checking a local store that'd be 180EUR, 25% VAT included). You want expensive then an Iwata Custom Micron should be over twice that.
Or seemingly far more likely you just want the "mid range" you saw in that store to be the sensible mid-range option and the "overpriced" ones to be overpriced because then you could save a bunch of money and be real smart at the same time. Except that turned out to be the truly overpriced one, a re-branded Chinesium turd going by what you're telling us about it, and so now you're desperately trying to cope by going all in on the sour grapes and declaring that airbrushing is just vinegar through and through. Because admitting to yourself that you'll have to save up a bit for a decent airbrush and that you tricked yourself into a bad deal? Something tells me that just ain't gonna happen.

>>97127394
Could be good. Check if it has teflon seals so you can use the fun solvents, and a floating nozzle to aid you in your basic maintenance hell.
>>
>>97127509
There is science behind it, there's just a lot of variables involved.
>>
>>97127536
looks like shit bro. I don't see anything about the airbrush having teflon seals so it probably doesn't have them, and the compressor appears to be a tankless model which is total doodoo. I know you want to save money but the saying is buy once cry once.

>>97127610
that one is sold by mr hobby so it can definitely handle lacquer paints.
>>
>>97127671
Seems a lot of people say the G233 is a good airbrush for the money, parts are cheap and available.
The compressor I am wondering about, or looking for a cost effective option. Is a tank on the compressor that necessary? How long should you be able to go without overheating on a tankless compressor?
>>
>>97127610
>Evolution... 180EUR

I fucking wish. Listen, there is a limit I would spend on a single tool and if anything viable exceed that, I will either deal with Chinese stuff or not do anything at all, most likely the second option. Sour or not, grapes are just outside my reach.
>>
>>97127686
>Is a tank on the compressor that necessary?

It allows seamless work, which is quite important. You don't want your compressor to run all the time, which could cause it to overheat and shut down during work and/or deliver uneven pressure.
>>
>>97127686
>a lot of people say the G233 is a good airbrush for the money
you shouldn't pay much attention to what a lot of broke ass niggers have to say.
>Is a tank on the compressor that necessary?
absolutely. it's not just about not overheating, the tank will make it quieter overall since the motor won't be running nearly as much.
>>
>>97127767
>you shouldn't pay much attention to what a lot of broke ass niggers have to say.
I am a big proponent of "buy once cry once", so what is your recommendation? I dont want to cry too hard though...
>>
>>97127833
get the gsi one with the needle size you want and whatever compressor from home depot with the biggest tank / lowest decibel rating that you are willing to spend for.
>>
>>97127753
That's the 2 in 1 version, anon. You get two nozzle sizes and two needles. Then again, you seem to be hellbent on making yourself miserable, so whatever.

>>97127833
>"buy once cry once"
Nta, but Evolution. It's very much a performance of Infinity (a first venture into high tier airbrushes, and thus ALL you will ever need for airbrushing models), but cheaper. There are some QoL improvements with Infinity, just like better materials used across the board, but the difference is rather small in the grand scheme of things.
>>
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>>97127753
Not the Aerograf, the Silverline Evolution.

>there is a limit I would spend on a single tool and if anything viable exceed that, I will either deal with Chinese stuff or not do anything at all, most likely the second option
You're clearly going for both, buying shit, getting tired of the shit, and then giving up with nothing but wasted money and frustration to show for it.
>>
>>97125687
i varnish my models with ultramatt and then go over metals with the 1:1 mix
>>
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My clippers are fucking shit and I'm losing a lot of time tiding the spru yunk out of my models or outright damaging them when cutting.

What are good clippers/spru cutters? Something that wont break the bank would be nice. This hobby is expensive enough as it is.

Pic unrelated, but a WIP to stay on topic.
>>
>>97128066
I was going to say godhands, but I think those are basically the most expensive. I love them every time I use them though.

Also that freehand is immaculate. I thought it was a decal until I looked closer.
>>
>>97128066
I like DSPIAE single blade nippers. They are about 90% of the Godhands effectivity, but for like a half the price.
Very lovely dread, anon.
>>
>>97128061
NTA but I spray literally everything with 1:1 and it always looks good
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Working on some bases for the raptor boys
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>>97128066
ive never used clippers i just twist the parts off and clean them with scalpel
been doing that for almost 30 years now and i still see no point in purchasing them snippers
>>
>>97128066

Tamiya's have been best in terms of price vs quality for me. I've tried most of the expensive ones also and stuff like Godhand is imo made for more for Gundam than miniature kits.
>>
>>97128220
Post minis
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>>97128231
as the op of the last thread said anons get easily fed up with seeing same shit from same anons over and over
>>
>>97128257
that's one weird deflection
>>
>>97128218
Looks great, very nice plants
>>
>>97128290
Thanks, anon!
>>
>>97128066
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Milwaukee-5-in-Mini-Flush-Cutting-Pliers-with-Comfort-Grip-48-22-6105/305760837?source=shoppingads&locale=en-US&fp=ggl
>>
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Some crisis suits
Airbrushing contrast paints is a really easy and enjoyable way to do muzzle burn
>>
>>97126965
That's gorgeous
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>>97128625
You forgot to highlight them
>>
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Done with this Chaos cultist killteam I think
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>>97126842
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>>97128900
Wtf, chat is this real!
>>
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I'm just about done with this guy, just the face and some touch ups. How are the boots? I like the color, but I'm not sure if the orange Jee'do desert dust is correct
>>
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>>97128625
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>>97128941
I really love this lol
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>>97128941
If they could leave the bases behind, that would be some fantastic sloppa.
>>
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>>97128941
Can you do it with this one please?
>>
>>97123336
>Does GW always re-use a pre-existing sculpt/model for mini of the month? Do they ever make something exclusive?
It wasn't always this way, but here's how it works now:

The mini of the month is always a design that exists. Specifically, it is now always a model that is in a squad/unit/warband. However, the sprues are made specifically to be and sent as an allotment to each store to be given away as the mini of the month.

This means that while what you have once you put it together looks exactly like something you can get in another kit, the sprue itself is unique to the giveaway.

Case in point: this month, it's a Deathwatch Incursor. This model, in this exact pose, is part of the new Primaris Deathwatch Kill Team. However, when you buy that Kill Team, his bitz come on the sprue with the rest of his squadmates; he is not in the box on a sprue by himself.

He also, therefore, has a unique part number as the mini of the month.

This makes the "mini of the month" sprue sought-after for collectors, since there is no other way to get that specific sprue other than to go to a GW store and get it for free during the month it's on offer.
>>
>>97125812
yeah, don't know about that tho
>>
>>97128900
i was REALLY excited they were about to kiss, then they didn't
>>
>>97126146
Lmao I know, I got some from AliExpress, same shit, turns out it's crap for minis, prob why no one has used them before
>>
>>97126066
Those women are long gone
>>
>>97128625
out of 4 plasma guns only one looks concentric. did you just give up on the other 4?
>>
>>97126636
>You can get replacements easily and usually fairly cheaply to any kind of brush
No you can't, find me a set of passche o rings in Australia, even badger ones are hard to find
>>
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Printed and painted pic rel. my colors are a bit too dark but it came out fine. He’s a gift for a friend that likes SpongeBob
>>97129008
NTA but where did you get that blonde muscley he-man looking guy from??

>>97129046
>I had several of these and I built them all for fun a few years back
>>
>>97126674
This, I have a few also but switched to rattlecan priming, so much easier to walk outside, prime, and back, done in 5 minutes, wouldn't have even set up the AB in that time, let alone mix, paint, clean, put away everything
>>
>>97129177
>>
>>97126759
not fast
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>>97129177
That guy is from Heresy miniatures, which I highly recommend. Not to shill too much, but he has a lot of good sculpts, he puts goodies and sometimes extra minis in the box, and has a wide range of fantasy, masquerade, and robot turrents. I'm mostly shilling because he has some real life bills to take care of, so hopefully you find some minis you like
>>
>>97126931
Anon hours is a exaggeration, line how when you day it takes seconds
>>
>>97127394
Mr hobby is a good brand, try checking out jap sites that mail to you, the yen is doing terrible and it may be cheaper
Also recommend gaahleri
But I'd recommend not upgrading your AB unless you are using it for a few hours everyday
>>
>>97129243
if you already have an airbrush, working on your technique and process will get you much more than buying a more expensive one
>>
>>97128220
Ask me how I know you've never even looked at a eldar kit
>>
>>97128900
Awesome
>>
>>97129243
Seconding Gaahleri. I have two of their airbrushes and they're both great and not super expensive.
>>
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>>97126674
>>97126664
>>97126712
I have to agree with you guys as well here. My airbrush and compressor are always on my desk ready to go but it's the cleaning (before, after, and during) and wearing a mask with an open window in cold/hot weather. It's not unbearable but a lot of times I'd rather have the brush. I rarely use it outside of priming indoors and basecoating stuff really fast. But even with basecoating it's only good for stuff that predominantly the same color like space marines or greenskins that want an all over spray of dark green or burnt red for the undertone.

And yes i still have a spray can if I'm priming small things of big batches that I can't wait to cure for a day.
>>
I can't believe we're still talking about airbrushes
>>
>>97129655
Would you like to talk about sand?
>>
>>97129655
beats the weekly meltdown over what is and isn't primer
>>
>>97129710
I'd be willing to talk about carefully selected single pebbles.
>>
>>97128814
solid job!
>>
I tried out vallejo model colour black and it feels like sitting down for the first time in 20 years
fuck glossy blacks, fuck abaddon black, fuck game colour black, I'm a changed man
>>
>>97128814
I really like the purple transitions on the mutants, anon.
I'd love to play against these on the tabletop.
>>
why does it matter if paint is gloss or matte if you're just going to cover it with a flat clear in the end?
>>
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Pretty happy with how these are turning out

>>97128218
Damn I love these, whats the process?
>>
>>97130007
Dare I say.... TRVKE
>>
>>97130007
No.
>>
File: ComfyUI_00205_.mp4 (1.23 MB, 832x480)
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1.23 MB MP4
>>97128999
I tried that, too. The video model REALLY wants their bases to stay with them.
>>
>>97126088
That's just how my phone takes pictures, nothing I can do about it
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>>97130329
You can, if you use third party application like OpenCamera.
>>
File: 1430983338548.jpg (44 KB, 599x578)
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>>97130314
>the base just flies after him
>>
>>97129168
>find me a set of passche o rings
Even local stores sell them (EU).
>Australia
I'm sorry, anon.

>>97129198
Yes, fast.
>>
>>97129168
you just don't look hard enough
https://www.hobbytools.com.au/air-brushing-compressors/paasche-h-hs-airbrushes-spare-parts/
>>
>>97130410
wrong link on accident, other one is just for a specific model
https://www.hobbytools.com.au/air-brushing-compressors/paasche-airbrushes-and-spares/
>>
>>97129894
>>97129901
Thanks anons. I don't use purple or blue a lot, so it was very fun.
>>
File: ComfyUI_00209_.mp4 (686 KB, 832x480)
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>>97129008
It doesn't really do great with fire animations (that aren't actually real fire) and I don't really care enough to try prompting around it. You can try it yourself with WAN2.2
>>
File: Bokrug.jpg (229 KB, 1536x2048)
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Only base colors for now (although it took me 1.5h) I may change jaws colors.
>>
Only the bases left to do.
>>
File: IMG_4843.jpg (1.64 MB, 3329x1882)
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>>97130660
My bad
>>
File: IMG_4844.jpg (2.66 MB, 4031x2512)
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>>97130660
I also set up my table for my next Bolt Action game. It’s a good start, but I want to make more terrain for my upcoming projects.
>>
>>97130417
Fuck, must be new, 4 years ago I swear I couldn't find anything
>>
>>97127520
Glad you like it! Hope the models will be of use to you :)
>>
File: goop.jpg (2.39 MB, 3386x2258)
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Mmmm, goo.
>>
Any recommendations for acrylic rattlecan varnishes? Can't use my normal lacquer topcoat cus I'm in an apartment rn and don't wanna make end up making a poison hotbox in my bathroom.
>>
>>97130847
I had good experience with AK matt varnish in spray can. AP one was very durable but also always forming layer similar to orange peel. Only bad experience I had was with Vallejo, which behaved very odd - not drying for over a week (still sticky) and smelling bad.
>>
>>97130897
Can confirm that AP matt rattlecan leaves a bit of a weird finish. Although to be fair I'm not 100% sure if I was applying it correctly, it was a while ago
>>
>>97130897
>>97130977
AP rattlecans are, in general, probably the worst rattlecans in the entire hobby industry and borderline scam. Don't buy them.
>>
>>97130842
>>
File: riptide.jpg (2.75 MB, 8416x3576)
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Im trying to make my first custom kitbash for riptide what do u think so far?
>>
>>97131206
Nice Jojo pose.
>>
>>97131206
looks pretty cool so far
>>
>>97129008
Are these bats/imps attached by their dicks to their flightstands?
>>
File: DNGHT 2.jpg (3.55 MB, 3888x2592)
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>>97128093
>>97128124
>>97128223
>>97128513
Thanks for the suggestions anons.
I'll try my luck with tamiya, the other options are out of my budget for now.
>>
>>97131289
Tamiya nippers are pretty solid, can't go wrong with them. It's ain't buttery smooth near zero cleaning required like DSPIAE or Godhands, but it's still a very solid workhorse. I own them too for rougher stuff and they are great.
>>
>>97130433
This is great! Thanks a lot, you really brightened up my day
>>
>>97131264
Yes, it's why they fly at about face height
>>
I wish to apologise for yesterday - I did priming with my (Chinese) airbrush today and cleaning alone took me 10 minutes, inckuding taking off nozzle and needle.

I am sorry.
>>
>>97131600
im sorry too i was really drunk
things were posted and feelings were hurt
>>
>>97131600
>>97131682
That was a perfectly civil discussion by 4chans standards, I wouldn't worry about it
>>
How would you guys go about painting a wild turkey? I have one on my gnome blood bowl team, tried to do it in like a dark brown with a couple different dry brush colors, but wasn't really happy with how it turned out. Luckily I dropped and broke it so that gives me a chance to try again at least.
>>
>>97130847
I normally used Testors but I heard they were bought out and they rebranded to this.
https://www.rustoleum.com/product-catalog/consumer-brands/universal/universal-clear-topcoat



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