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Work in Progress, "Hidden Easter Eggs" Edition

>Full-on /WIP/ OP Links Pastebin
https://pastebin.com/BE42AEcD

>WIP Tutorial Images Mega
https://mega.nz/#F!TvQFCaLb!w8WZKCcOsTRasxrI0JWezw

>Saint Duncan's "Six Things I Wish I Knew When I Started Painting"
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ufP8ka3KGno

>Saint Duncan also explains thinning your paints
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wxWgsqSf74s

>Paint thinning 102
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sBDVPoNXyVI

>4 EASY Chipping Tricks For Beginners
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ku4comhKHJM

>Decal Like a Pro
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SYKLiEW7p9c

>How to Edge Highlight
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KoRbYuAfbEk

>How to use contrast style paints
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IhholrozptI

>How to Paint with Tremors
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oqp76vAJu9g

>Airbrush Priming and Thinning
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jkntrSBvXxE
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IGjBQzoukFg
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=00JVUxABe44
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AEqT_R41JX8

>Who's Johnny, she'd say, and smile in her special way
https://1d6chan.miraheze.org/wiki/Johnny

>Previous Threads:
>>97723587
>>97699837
>>97683543
>>
I see her, baker san.
>>
>>97735499
With the ones you posted in the pic, I think you should choose your base color based on whichever one you feel less comfortable doing by hand. I’m going to straight up say it’s the yellow. And whichever one you feel more comfortable brushing on at the darkest gradient and highlighting up by hand, do that second. I don’t know the colors of the other faction, but going by the pic you posted Id base the yellow.
>>
Danke, Bäcker-san
>>
Do you think Suggs still lurks? Or she has left this shithole for good?
>>
Kek, the guy who accidentally posted in the wrong thread made the collage
>>
Progress
I really need to make some kind of light diffuser because most of my photos look like garbage
>>
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>>97738044
I finished a couple of Engineers, ready for a friendly sunday game.
>>
>>97738150
I don't care, nor should you.
>>
Give it to me straight, what are the chances that bottle of vallejo varnish that lied untouched somewhere in the corner since 2019-ish still works fine? I found a couple I forgot about and I don't think they were ever even opened. Safe, or not?
>>
>>97738365
shake them for a week and try them out on a piece of plastic
>>
kinda fucked up turned the flames/smoke into the eyecatch instead of the face or the weapon
>>
>>97738471
Looks awesome
>>
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Gonna call this one done unless someone has suggestions on last minute improvements. It's late but I'll take a better picture tomorrow. Think I overdid it with the flowers? I overestimated how big they are.
>>
>>97738522
I like them
Nice work anon
>>
>>97738522
Did the skeleton just emerge from the ground?
I feel like it should be covered in more dirt.
>>
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>>97738471
this is the type of painting style I aspire to achieve
>>
Literally how the fuck?
>>
>>97738150
When she was streaming a year or so ago I said "hi from /wip/" and she said "wow i have not heard that in a while" so i assume shes not here anymore
>>
>>97738692
What is the trick here? Is this some kind of micro stencil?
>>
>>97738692
Magnifying glass, very fine tip and a lot of patience. I have somewhere (but cannot find it) webm of guy scribing actual text on 28mm scale scroll.
>>
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>>97738712
This one?
It's nonsense text but yeah it's incredible
>>
>>97738715
there is literally no reason to do this with a brush instead of a micron pen for example
>>
>>97738715
Yeah, that one. Good illustration on how far can your patience and dedication carry you.

Personally, I'm more interested in how he manage to keep the brush wet and prevent both drying up completely and overflowing. This is the problem I get each time I try to paint eyes, either I load up too much of paint/water or it dried up in the middle and refuse to flow.
>>
>>97738768
flow improver / retarder
>>
>>97738764
Brushes and pens work in different ways anon.
>>
>>97738789
No shit?
>>
>>97738791
If that is obvious why is it you think he should be doing it with a pen?
>>
>>97738804
because a firm tip is infinitely better for writing/scribbling trying to mimic letters
doing it with a brush is only for flexing purposes

for the lil painting on top, sure, go for a brush
but for scribbles theres no reason to use anything other than a fine tip pen
>>
>>97738841
The tip of a brush is even thinner than a micron pen. I don't see why you would use a pen when you have a better tool on hand.
>>
>>97738764
>>97738841
you are vastly overestimating how small a micron pen is
>>
Are there any budget kolinsky brushes that wont shit the bed in a month and will keep a sharp tip for a good while?

>inb4 rosemary&co
Whatever shit I save its nullified by having to pay for customs

Im located in EU if that matters
>>
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>>97738864
Is he?
>>
>>97738956
Yes?
It's still thicker than the tip of a brush.
>>
>>97738956
theres even 0.03
>>
>>97738965
Technically, but they're small enough for it not to matter.
>>
>>97738029
gonna be honest, I didn't notice they were that bad until I saw the picture and winced. the figure is pretty small
>>
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>>97738956
the line you get is not even close to 0.05mm, even their brush one can get way thinner lines
>>
>>97739068
Use that one then. Why use a brush if you got Microns?
>>
>>97738893
get nevskaya palitra from aliexpress, or look for roubloff or carstyn in whatever online store, another anon in last thread recomended nighworks from aliexpress too
i have been using the palitra for a few months and can tell you i like it better than my rosemary, i haven't used the other two (yet) but heard good things about them

>customs
several hobby shops around the EU have some or all of those brands with no customs, you don't have to buy directly from them
look also at arts and crafts stores (not just online), they usually have a much larger selection of brushes
>>
>>97739089
in my experience they are harder to control (as you can tell from the paper) and they wear out, to get a thin line you have a very narrow window of pressure, brushes are more controllable if you can get past the drying problem
also you are restricted to black with the microns
>>
>>97738893
I think it depends on what your budget is. Winsor and Newton Series 7 cost about $20 each and last a long time. If you get four in different sizes (I use two 000, one 00, one 0) it will be around $80 and you should be good for a couple of years.

I'd add a limited set of drybrushes/stippling brushes and some larger, less expensive brushes for basecoats, washes and whatever.

How you paint will tell you what you need.
>>
>>97739137
Same poster as above. Winsor and Newton is a UK company so I don't think there should be no issues with tariffs? I'm from the UK but relocated to the US a few decades ago, so am not 100% on that.
>>
>>97739147
>I don't think there should be any issues with tariffs*

Corrected. I need more coffee. :)
>>
>>97739103
I don't know of a good way to get past said drying problem. At that scale, you'd have to be painting with slightly pigmented thinner.
>>
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>didn't properly check if the cup is 100% clean before spraying varnish
>front of the mini sprayed with tiny specks of brown
at least it's only visible on the brighter parts so it won't be too much work to fix it but god I'm so stupid
>>
>>97739254
retarder is the way, it could maybe be done with oils too now that i think about it
>>
>>97739150
if you buy to uk from the eu you have to pay customs unless the store conforms with IOSS, in wich case they collect vat and it gets to your door without extra charge, but it's rarely the case with small shops
>>
I dont need like 75% of the paints I own yet I keep buying more.
>>
>draft out paintjob in GIMP
>doesn't look good

eeeeee
>>
>>97739420
post it?
you may get useful feedback/suggestions
>>
>>97739412
Stop being impulsive and take control of yourself and your life.
>>
>>97739412
Same.
Also what's the deal with proacryl's brown selection? Is there a kit, or maybe like flameon's signature set that has all the nice warm browns, like a doombull or mournfang from GW. I use PA for almost everything but keep going back to gw for those two. At least mahogany is a good substitute for rhinox hide in general.
>>
>cleaning cheap chink airbrush
Relaxing
>cleaning expensive iwata HS airbrush
Stressful
>>
>>97739436
>psychological hangups
>>
>>97739137
I wouldn't buy a series 7 unless I got it personally from the store. Their quality control has gone to shit over the last 3 or so years to the point I wouldn't want to buy a brush sight unseen.
>>
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I have an absolutely retarded question and I can't believe I'm asking this.

I'm planning to paint some models primarily gray. I have a gray airbrush primer (pic related). As long as the primer coat goes on smoothly, is there any reason I can't also consider it a basecoat as well and just wash over it in places where it fits the color scheme?
>>
>>97739604
>is there any reason I can't also consider it a basecoat as well
No.
>>
if you can use primer as paint why do they sell primer+paint?
>>
>>97739604
Nope, As long as it's close enough to what you want.
Only concern is if it has a different finish than your paints, like my old primers are on the glossier side of satin, while my paints are pretty matte. You can always fix that with clear coats at the end if you want.
>>
>>97739631
it's all a conspiracy by big paint
>>
>>97739604
No, likewise your basecoat can work as your "primer"
>>
Did squidmar really put out a video about the "new technique winning all the contests!" and then as the examples just show stuff from the contest that THEY fucking ran and judged?
Big picrel vibes.
>>
>>97739678
why do they sell primer at all then if you can just skip it?
>>
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>>97739427

Just remade the whole thing for you anon, you're right.

I think I like it more now too.
>>
>>97739703
I think either the red or green are too saturated. Tone one of them down and maybe bring the other one up a bit. Right now it looks a little too christmassy
>>
>>97739685
>why is business greedy?
Because of Dodge Brothers vs. Ford Motors, early 1900's.
>>
>>97739435
On their webpage you can browse by colour group and see all their browns. What's wrong with Flameon btw? 4 out of 6 are warm browns and the last two are nice for highlighting those browns.
>>
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>>97739728
Agreed, in person it will be a bit closer to this, I'll be using the same paints and a lot of weathering.

Was thinking Vallejo Cavalry Brown on the undersuits followed by Blood Angels Red contrast paint, gives it like a red wine look.
>>
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>>97739735
Crossposting this cool hat I made
>>
>>97739762
Nothing wrong with Flameon, I just meant maybe that's where all the warm browns are in the overall lineup.

>>97739759
*Jack Welch and GE in the 80's
>>
>>97739703
looks fine to me. like one of those old cosmonaut suits.

>>97739759
but if businesses could save money by not buying primer wouldn't they do it? the same for not buying paint if you can just use primer.
>>
>>97739357
Ouch, I had no idea. Not sure which country you're in, but W&N is a large firm and their brushes should be available in pretty much all good art stores over the counter.

To the poster mentioning W&N quality control - interesting take. I haven't experienced that but will keep an eye out for it. If you have recommendations for alternatives please keep 'em coming - sable brushes that keep a sharp point and don't hook or split. Thanks!
>>
>>97739703
I think I would have used a different color scheme - maybe green and blue or green and white? This one looks a bit 'Santa-in -Space'. :) But the rest is all good.
>>
>>97739302
At least you didn't mistake the varnish for brown paint. Apparently that happened to Duncan Rhodes' team at Citadel one time and they had to toss the mini.
>>
>>97739604
You definitely can. When airbrush priming, I'll often use black, then grey, then a zenithal of the base color, and go from there. Saves a bunch of time if you choose the model carefully.
>>
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It's the kneepads.

Looks much better like this. Only thing is, not all of the sculpts have them in the same place.
>>
>>97739787
No, fiduciary responsibility as established in the aforementioned case, 1910's.
Corporations are legally required to be greedy fucks ever since.
>>
>>97739789
If businesses can make money by marketing and selling extra steps and equipment, they are required to.
If a CEO doesn't, the shareholders can get the CEO imprisoned.
Sell faulty products that cause harm or death and you'll just get fined, but cheat the shareholders of potential profits and you can go to jail.
In this case that can be proven because "our competitors sell primer, so we must too"
>>
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Got it.

Thanks for the advice guys much appreciated
>>
>>97739953
The ford court decision is overblown in it's importance, and believing it does is actually part of the psyop.
It's not unfair to say that it was a point in the timeline that mattered, but the jack welch era was where the consequences of that kind of ideology really started coming home to roost.
>>
>97739681
>sloptuber garbage
dont
>>
>>97739997
>point of infection doesn't matter, ignore the malaria mosquitoes
>>
>>97739995
Looks good
>>
>>97739982
but the same goes for saving money by cutting corners. why would they waste money on primer if it isn't necessary? why buy gray paint if you can just clear over your primer?
>>
>>97740207
Making a cheap product is okay. not making a product is lost market.
>>
>>97740299
you aren't even making sense. I'm not asking about the companies that sell it. why would a company that uses paint buy product that they don't need?
>>
>>97740340
Now you're not making sense. we're talking "why do they sell it" that was the question asked.
>>
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>using oil paints wash
>left to dry for 10 minutes then moving to remove excess with sponge
>gently move makeup sponge slightly wet with white spirit
>it instead rips paint in several places

Fug. Which is odd, it worked before and on 3D prints. Maybe waited too long? Recently I fuck up everything I touch, this is starting to get scary.
>>
>>97740595
No reason to let it dry, right?
>>
>>97740606
No idea. Somehow white spirit reactivated acrylic paint, which shouldn't have. But then again, I was using this method on plastic models and 3D prints before without problems so what the fuck just happened?
>>
>>97740641
white spirits don't chemically reactivate the paint at all, but just being wet by anything still softens acrylic films.
>>
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>>97739787
>Nothing wrong with Flameon
I have a Flameon in Pokemon Go!, but I mostly use my Klobuchar.
>>
>>97739604
Only issue is if you need to do touchups and you don't have a grey that is the same color. One of the reasons why I like PA primer is that it is color matched to the paint in the line.
>>
Im absolutely convinced that about 99% of painters wouldt be able to tell modern paint brands apart quality wise if they were to blind test them.
>>
>>97740435
why don't you stop trying to weasel out of it and answer why companies that are trying to save money would buy product that they don't need?
>>
>>97739616
>>97739634
>>97739678
>>97739873
>>97740739
Thanks anons. The finish doesn't matter since it'll get varnished anyway and I have a gray that's close enough for touch-ups. Off to spray.
>>
>>97740649
This. You should always seal acrylics with varnish before you use oils.
>>
>>97740796
See this? >>97739685 This is the discussion. Talk to the voices in your head elsewhere.
>>
>>97740800
Assuming the primer is decent quality, can you use it for touch-ups? Or am I being stupid?

It's probably the latter option but I'd like to know anyway in case I end up trying the same thing. :)
>>
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Hours of doing highlights and they're barely visible. I know it looks good but goddamn, what a time sink. For myy next army I might eschew highlights.

>>97738864
Its pretty small for me. Especially the .003 ones. Couldnt do the scribbles with a brush.
>>
>>97741077
very clean and I like the effect on the thunder hammers. You'll get better photos if you set the models down though.
>>
>>97740821
if you can't answer just say so. you don't have to worry about losing face on an anonymous website.
>>
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>>97741185
Thank you, and 100% on the photos, but I just wanted to take quick photos, so I didnt set up a lightbox like pic rel. I just took the photos under the room light. If I put them down I wouldnt have enough light.
>>
Whats the closest currently available match to 1994's Citadel Goblin Green?

I saw someone mention VMC Fern Green 70.833, can someone who has it confirm?
Any other close alternative?
>>
>>97741077
>for my next army I might eschew highlights.
Nah just go fatter/quicker with your highlights so you can see them from further away. You only need to put in the effort on the one mini you will pick up to show people.

And remember, there is no law saying you cant clean up the highlights later in the future for the rest of your minis.

PS love your standard, the aztec colors are really nice. I look forward to seeing that shield rotated towards the camera.
>>
>>97740595
Real oil paint takes about 1 month to dry anon...
But holy shit does it blend amazingly.
>>
>>97741387
I know but I don't paint with oils, just use them as washes. There is no need to wait for it to dry for removal.

Now I think I simply applied too much of it, letting it pool.
>>
>>97741423
When mixing an oil wash its best to add a brushful of oil at a time to about a black bean sized dollop of paint. You don't need it thin enough to look thinned, just thin enough to flow. Always have a test mini that you can check the viscosity on before you apply it to a model you care about, and you can check the test mini to see if its dry enough before wiping away and if the oil is dry enough to go to the next step.
>>
>>97741439
Brushful of thinner, not oil.
>>
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finally got it (mostly) right, the problem was the gypsum i had, so i got a better one
i'll fix some of the bubbles later but i'm happy
>>
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Working on a Land Speeder
>>
>>97741442
>>97741439
But won't that mean having to wait very long for oil wash to dry? I assumed that with overthinning it will both flow easier and evaporate faster.
>>
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Deathwatch Terminators WiP.

Another paint session or two for more weathering and to complete the lenses, then I'm going to finish them with a matte varnish.
>>
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>>97742066
Gonna paint up a Corvus Blackstar next to transport them and the inquisitor leading them.

Here's some 3d prints i got to bring a little interest to the base of it.
>>
>>97740595
I tend to do a light varnish pass to lock in the paint after doing the base layers of acrylic. I think of it like a save state.

Helps prevent lifting paint when you start working with the oils/enamel, tho i can still happen if youre unlucky.

Weather the varnish is matte or gloss will affect how the oils behave too, which is uselful if youre trying to pin-wash or weather.
>>
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Finished up a termie for a game of spacehulk with friends.
>>
>>97742420
>Stitches mark on power armor
Soul
>>
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Testing some new photo setup stuff. I realized after that I should have tried what I was currently working on, but this girl looks nicer.
It does look good, but lighting like this is kind of cheating. I can see the more dramatic lighting on a primed mini being good for reference though.
Also this is finally looking pretty true-to life just out of the standard jpeg color profile. I usually have to go in and tweak the raw to get the colors to look the way they look in real life.
>>
>>97741700
If its too thin then it will run more than you want leading to more cleanup. If its too thin then it wont tint properly or leave enough shading behind. You want it just thin enough to flow from your brush into the recesses with a tap of the brush, not run all over the model. You should also be putting the dollop of oil paint on some corrugated cardboard for 30 or so minutes before hand, it will draw excess linseed oil out of the paint so it dries faster. Different colors will take different lengths of time to dry, so some experimentation will be needed.
>>
in retrospect it seems kind of obvious but i should have drilled and glued the magnets before putting on the primer and base coat. turns out the superglue that got stuck to my fat fucking fingers while fiddling with the magnets is really good at pulling off acrylic paint.
>>
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Got the silhouette established. Time for putty.
>>
>>97741447
How does it hold onto a mini? Its a painting handle right? Looks really rad anon.
>>
>>97738768
retarder, and a humidifier near your desk works wonders. Most peoples homes are way dryer inside than they think.
>>
>>97742493
she looks like she needs moisturizer
>>
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>>97742709
yes, the top part is modular, currently I only have one kind that is a small vice, i pin the feet of my models so it clamps those
>>
>>97742836
Very cool anon. Did you print those yourself? Also is that a light I see attached to it?
>>
>>97739337
> using oils for eyes
Has this ever been done before?
>>
>>97739604
I mean, it's why they make colored primers.
>>
>>97739685
Primers will generally stick to more surfaces than acrylics. Acrylics will then in turn stick more to the primer. You could just apply the paint straight onto your mini, but its also liable to come off if you look at it funny. You don't need to use primer just like you don't need to wipe your ass. Your overall experience will be much less irritating if you do.
>>
>>97743017
>And other lies I tell myself
>>
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>>97742965
yeah designed and printed myself (though it started from someone else's idea on thingiverse), this is the third version of it actually

its not a light it's just a rod for support, for when you have to hold the model at a weird angle so you don't touch it, its removable too so other attachments could be made, and now that you say it a small led to plan highlights could be a good idea, colored even
>>
>>97743066
>and now that you say it a small led to plan highlights could be a good idea, colored even
That's how Wappel checks his osl, small colored led lights to help with the rough sketch.
>>
After some trial and error and problem solving on how the fuck I'm going to get tiles under the feet of my Cursed City models for those attached by pegs, I've come to a brilliant solution: drill holes
Truly my intellect is boundless.
>>
>>97743081
>Wappel
who?
>>
>>97739681
Squidmar has been going down the route of sensationalism for the sake of clicks for a while now. Not a particularly helpful hobby channel these days. Mildly entertaining at least.
>>
>>97738692
>>97738705
This looks to be pure freehand by a psycho/master of the craft. Where is this from?
>>97738715
This is the kind of shit that deserves to win competitions
>>
>>97743066
Its very cool. You said you casted the scull part? Did you make the master by hand?
>>
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So this guy was kind of a bastard. I got him with a book and it had no directions. It's a press fit model. I've never done one before. The very first time I press a piece the pin snaps the fuck off. It was a retard filter and it almost got me. I was doing some looking. I can't find anyone with flesh colored marine armor. So I wanna make a flesh marine. What color would go good with fleshy tan? I do not care if he ends up looking like an armored ballsack. Surely some color matches flesh tone and looks cool but I'm drawing a blank. Anyone good with color matching?
>>
>>97743311
I've seen olive go well with fleshy tones. GW press-fits are absolutely notorious bad by the way. You are better off clipping the pins entirely and gluing it together like a normal model.
>>
>>97743311
GW push fit minis have poor tolerance, its overly tight. When assembling them, you want to cut off about 1/5th of the length of the peg, and then take off a slice down the length of it so its not round anymore. This will make it fit nicely into the sockets, as well as have room for glue squeeze out.
>>
>>97743311
Bugmans glow, knight quester flesh, and rakarth flesh (this is a god teir paint that everyone should have) should get you where you want (why you want it I dont know)
>>
>>97743424
I did what this guy>>97743405
said and cut the pins and glued him like a normal model. I like the olive green idea. Thank you anon.
>>
>>97743437
>why you want it I dont know)
I got a giggle out of someone calling my idea for flesh colored marine an "armored ballsack" and I feel this idea needs to be expanded upon.
>>
>>97743437
And I was gonna use guillemans flesh. I want pastey white never seen the sun skin color.
>>
The Hellblasters are embarrassingly bad eBay rescues, but they'll do for tomorrow's game. OTOH, I've finally done - after 25 years - what I should have done with my Annihilator by adding an H-K missile to the turret and swapping out the sponson weapons for more lascannons.

>>97743311
>I got him with a book and it had no directions
The Warhammer 40K Character Encyclopedia? That's an inexpensive way to grab yerself, Lieutenant Titus, hero of the Space Marine video games and star of the Secret Level episode based on them. I picked one up at B&N last year when they not only had 25% off all in store items, but I had a membership discount and a rewards gimme to boot.
>>
>>97743716
>the Secret Level episode based on them
Not yet, old man!

aHR0cHM6Ly9nb2ZpbGUuaW8vZC9iZUZPUWY=
>>
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working on 10mm Anglo-Saxons, Vikings and Normans for Stamford Bridge and Hastings.I am done with the Saxons mostly, half way through the Vikings and it is starting to feel like work...
>>
>>97743895
SOVL
>>
>>97741348
Someone?
Im chekcing Stahly colour matching pdf and VMC Fern Green isnt even close

Using that very same pdf and if memory serves well, the colour Im looking for would be something between GW Skarsnik green and TTC goblinoid green

How come no company has given it all to colour match it perfectly given its a much sought after tone?

>inb4 Coat d'Arms
That shit has like 0 covering power
>>
>>97743975
idk but VGC (both old and new) seem quite similar to me, youre either misremembering or overthinking it
>>
>>97743895
are you going to base one guy on his own for stamford bridge
>>
>>97743995
of course there will be the famous berserker
>>
>assembling skellies
>accidentally snap off a leg, twice
>one of the legs was already broken on the runner
pain
>>
>>97743094
>Squidmar
At least he's not Dana Howl.
>>
>>97744220
Who?
>>
>>97742493
Are those paint cracks on her right arm and breast?
>>
>>97743975
Look up ak light green or frog green. I use those for bases. I've never used goblin green so I'm not sure if it's a perfect match
>>
>>97738304
Dope, strider looking great.

>>97738315
Really nice anon, are those 3d prints?
>>
>>97744220
Forgive me for asking this but whats wrong with her?
>>
>>97744281
>her
>>
>painting shadows on a 3d object
ISHYGDDT
>>
>>97744338
You mean like, blacklining?
>>
>>97744338
Stop shitting up the thread, we've had this discussion.
>>
>>97744365
Im not talking about occlusion shadows
>>
>>97744478
>don't paint shadows
>no not those shadows, those shadows are fine
>>
>>97738692
its so hard to make tattoos "read" as tattoos on a mini
this is really somethin else
>>
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>>97732610
Many thanks, kind anon

>>97734824
Yes, horse armour panels are much less blended than the dude'ones, I should re-touch them (I tried to had them end in white but did not like the final effect so I repainted them red).
Also shitty phone camera as you can see.

My problem is that I struggle to say "ok this minia is done" cause the more I look at it the more things I want to re-touch / redo I find.
So at a certain point I simply states "it's done, next"
>>
>>97744335
This is /tg/, not /v/.
>>
>>97744625
>youre in /tg/ therefore you should participate in the mental delusions of trannies
no
>>
>>97744633
nta but you're trying too hard friend, just go back
>>
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>>97743230
the master is a bunch of citadel skull hotglued to a 3dprinted shelf structure, then pressed into a blutack mold
picrel is the mold and some of the masters for the previous (failed) attempt, for this one i used a 6 part mold, but the idea is the same
>>
>>97741348
>>97743975
>>97743989

>left: old VGC Goblin green, 1 and 2 coats
>right: new VGC Goblin green, 1 and 2 coats

IMO the new VGW is closer to the original, but its stil a tad too dark. Old VGC is too yellow.
>>
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>>97744762
Ah god damn it forgot the pic
>>
>>97744625
you will never be welcome in this hobby, freak
>>
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I'm not really sure what happened, I used to really enjoy painting but for the past year I've struggled to get anything painted. I just got my first Chaos Knight for my birthday and my first reaction after building it is "Wow this is going to be a bitch to paint" rather than "Wow this looks like a fun project". Have any of you anons lost your passion for painting? How do I get it back?
>>
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>>97744789
Like anything if you rely on "passion" alone you'll get deflected eventually. I set aside a time slot or two a week where i sit down and do a bit regardless of how im feeling.

I think discipline is more important than passion if you want to progress and get good at any particular thing.

Here's a questoris.
>>
>>97744062
When it comes to assembling, skeletons has always been the worst for me. It's like some universal rule.
>>
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Just the base left to do. Nein !
>>
>>97743311
>>97743405
>>97743424
I tend to carve some of the peg off instead of just cutting it off entirely. Shave the thickness off so it still fits in the hole and will stay reasonably well even without glue but comes apart easily without too much effort.
>>
>>97743437
>rakarth flesh (this is a god teir paint that everyone should have
TTC Griffon Claw is vastly superior. Rakarth suffers from GW chunky whites.
>>
>>97744829
I guess I need to get more disciplined about it then. I will start painting something then go "I don't feel like doing this" and put all my painting supplies away. I feel good about the end result when I end up painting usually.

Nice Questoris, haven't decided what I'm going to paint this Rampager as.
>>
>>97738692
>>97738705
some people are just that good
>>
>>97738715
man having a brush that holds its tip like that AND paint that actually applies that smoothly? I've gone through so many fine detail brushes over the years and that brush is huge compared to those
>>
>>97743099
>Where is this from?
facebook lovedondon520
>>
Anyone know a good source for basing bits that'd look good on Zone Mortalis bases? Things like crates and barrels, metal plates, and broken machines.
>>
>>97739995
That mockup looks like something you'd see on RuneScape circa 2009.
Kino
>>
>>97745171
Yeah, my own painting would be far improved if I could get that combination, painting fine detail means washing my brush, retipping it and getting fresh wet paint every ten seconds or so.
>>
>>97745171
That's the actual trick, tiny brushes are actually less useful for detail painting than they seem. You see, anon, for super tiny and precise lines, you don't only need a very sharp tip, but also a large reservoir for paint and some body for the bristles to flex and move freely. The tiny brushes that mini companies sell are ok for some detail work, but they're not the most effective. The profit margin on smaller brushes is larger, so that's why they sell them to you.
>>
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>>97745465
NTA but are you suggesting that this 6 size thick brush would actually be better for details than 1 or 2? It was not used before so this sharp tip is holding mostly because of whatever they coat them for transport purposes.
>>
>>97745536
>sharp tip is holding mostly because of whatever they coat them for transport purposes.
I'd love to know how they do that because once I break that seal my brushes never get that tip back.
Maybe I shouldn't buy the cheapest "sable" amazon offers. Trouble is it's a two hour drive to buy brushes in person at a brick and mortar.
>>
>>97743716
Yes. Thats the book. It was 17 bucks on amazon. The artwork being pictures of the models is anice bonus.
>>97745044 The whole thing was a lesson. I'm not the best at arts and crafts.
>>
>>97745536
*If* the brush is high quality sable and the tip holds, then it should.
As with anything else, this idea isn't infinitely scalable, some sizes will just have a tip that's too fat to work.
As always, paint, thinness, additives, environmental humidity and temperature will also be a factor.
>>
>>97745536
nta, that one seems short so it will have a harder time keeping a sharp tip, and maybe 6 is too much, but a good size 2 or 3, maybe even 4 is better than a 0 or smaller yes
shape and length also are a factor, some have bigger bellies or longer bristles

the one in that video is a 3 at the very least
>>
>>97745536
Size 1 raphael is my favourite all-rounder. Big belly, and good enough tip to do fine detail. I've only been here for a year though, feel might evolve as I level up
>>
>>97744493
panel lining basically makes sense since a 3" deep gap at 1:35 scale would be .085", but on the plastic model it's probably .010" at most. painting shadows on something like a horse is stupid though since the model is more or less correctly scaled.
>>
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Painting up some bought mdf terrain for 40k.
>>
>>97745679
Looks like it'll be good
>>
>>97743716
That's the book. I like how the pictured are of the models and not drawings. Scooped him up for 17 bucks exactly because he was the cheapest way to get a mini.
>>97745044
I will keep that in mind for the next press fit I get. This one was a good lesson without nasty consequences.
>>
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>>97738315
v.cool! but isn't green a knife ear colour?

>>97738471
bruh. awesome!

>>97738522
Is that skeleton doing a <3 or kitty paws? lmfao, the flowers are nice but could use a tiny highlight imo

>>97738643
your d00d still looks cool tho! just up the contrast a bit. and helps if the mini has something cool to put some osl on

messed with stone turbodork stuff. it doesn't have a rough texture those are just sparkles. hard to photograph. I give it a 4/10
>>
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>>97740595
rip anon. If it makes you feel any better, I can't see any spots that are obviously messed up.

>>97741077
maybe it's just your lighting? or ... pick a different paint for the rest lol. that standard is so sick


added a squid to the thingy. am happy with it
>>
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>>97741271
I really like those pauldrons

>>97741447
I think the ones with the cracks in them had character! these are awesome too but imo it's ok for them to be a lil messed up? makes em look like old crumbly stone

>>97741480
nice! metallics is fun!

>>97742066
those sure are space marines anon! I really like your reds and the metallics on that pauldron
>>
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>>97745536
> 6 size thick brush would actually be better for details than 1 or 2
NTA. But yes and no. The other anon is correct in saying that a smaller brush does not actually mean a finer point. Shown in this picture is a W&N series 7 size 000 next to their size 4. You can clearly see they have the same point.

To add, small brushes just cause the paint to dry out fast which is why when you try to write the tiny lines the paint doesnt come off the brush, you need a big belly on the brush to hold water. The other thing is that its easier to keep a big brush from being ruined because the ferrule is farther from the working end = harder to get paint in it on accident.

That said, and its probably just because its what I like, but I find the size 2 to be the perfect all arounder brush and my size 4 to be a bit unwieldy. The only time I ever reach for a brush smaller than the size 2 is if I physically cannot fit the brush down into a nook or cranny. In which case I normally get a shit brush and paint that part dark cause you cant see it anyways.

PS. W&N carries what they call their "miniature painting" series 7 brushes. Do not ever buy these. They feature a short belley, which makes the painting experience worse and they get paint in the ferrule faster. Buy the normal ones.
>>
>>97744338
You can paint your little plastic toys any way you want, and so can others.
>>
>>97745465
>>97745536
>>97745912
I had a brush like that I used for detail but its tip bent and frayed after a while and I've been conserving the other one I have.
>>
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>>97742420
pure sovl

>>97742493
wtf d00d

>>97742700
love this stance

>>97742836
your skeletons are so sick, love your stuff

>>97743716
nice! But you should use a flouro orange instead of a pink for highlighting. ur kinda desaturating the red

dropped this guy :c
>>
>>97745362
>crates and barrels
hobby stores near the model rail road stuff
>metal plates
can make them out of plasticard in any size you want, use your hobby knife to make dimples and such
>broken machines
pieces of guitar string can be used to make textured cables/conduits, plasticard tubes for broken conduits
>>
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>>97743895
what is this? miniatures for ants? I have no idea what I'm looking at but I think it's pretty cool

>>97744572
dope

>>97744789
I just wait a while and do other things till I feel like it again. I haven't been painting much lately

>>97744919
are they done? omo

>>97744936
neat d00d anon

most of these guys are done
>>
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>sculpted a tiny skull face onto a helmeted head
>looks pretty good to the naked eye
>looks shit in photographs
Fingers crossed the paint saves it and doesn't just make it look like the animated skeleton of a bucktoothed broken nosed retard
quar included for scale
>>
>>97744572
Thats some good red.
>>
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>>97745989
Your cum board is looking pretty good.
>>
>>97746039
>>97745989
Woah, how do you get it to be coloured like that
Do I have to drink fluo paintwater?

Joking. It looks pretty neat. Makes me think of a minecraft diamond block.
>>
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Okay, did some testing today with airbrush, trying to use anons advices collected so far, mainly about thinning (more than 1:1 but minimally, something like 8 drops to 5 of paint, this time used only Vallejo thinner and from new bottle, instead of old one I still have and without adding flow improver, one variable at time), pressure (used higher than "standard" 1.8 bar, pumping to 2.2) and mixing outside the cup. Also used AK paints.

This time it didn't jam (until the very last part but it's a bit different as you will see), which calmed me down significantly (no, seriously, my hands were shaking hard when starting). It was going on pretty good, spray was consistent. There was some visible layer on the needle when retracted during flushing procedure, which still worries me, especially when compared to all those H&S videos where guy is just adding some cleaner, doing 2s long backflow, flush, add more cleaner, flush and voila - clean needle and cup, as new. While I keep flushing with water (to save on cleaner, come on, these are not exactly cheap) 2 or 3 times, make backflow and see paint filling cup again, there is something to worry about. But at least it didn't jam - until very end, where I wanted to add some extra shadows and obviously accidentally added some dried paint lump because it blocked nozzle completely - no bubbles in cup but it wouldn't spray, at all. And when I noticed that needle does not retract, I knew I have to take him apart to clean the nozzle. Seems like it's better to mix inside the cup after all, after it's clean of course.

Sorry for some sort of blogposting but I was consulting you guys for quite some time about this problem so I felt I need to share some progress.
>>
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But still don't know how these guys can spray with 1.2 bar and 1:1 thinning without issues. Unless they don't show everything.

>>97745870
Mainly her tabard (and for some reason only on blue part, odd) and metallic armour parts. Looks like battle damage but I definitely should fix that by painting over, she need some time to rest due to those oil washes, however.
>>
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>>97745935
> tip bent and frayed
Sounds like you had a synthetic brush. That will always happen with synthetic brushes, its just part of how they are made and is unavoidable. Always been like that, but for the most part other painters dont care cause they dont need the super fine detail and the price savings are worth it.

This is what happens to real hair brushes as they age. They just get dull, but still come to an un-curled point, if you are being generous with the word "point". Photoed is my 5 year old next to my brand new W&N size 2.
>>
>>97746218
>price savings

Unless we talk about those "premium synthetics" that cost more than cheap natural hair. Sometimes I wonder if that makes any sense but I got used too much to paint with natural to switch back to synthetics. At the other hand, I have few synthetics from Kolibri (below in price compared to their red sable) that have yet to experience curled end so maybe technology do marches on. Some people are also concerned with animals (I honor sacrifice of those cute little bastards by trying to get better with brush work).
>>
>>97746239
Wow yeah, I bought some citadel synthetics when I got started because the clerk told me I'd ruin my first brush. He was totally right, but that synthetic ended up being like 8 euros anyway. You can get a whole bundle of synthetics for like 5 eur at a "dollar store" equivalent that actually hold a tip pretty well, while you're learning.

But eventually, yes, it's worth it to get a good natural hair brush and using brush soap to make it last. The difference is striking.
>>
>>97746239
I'd be really interested in hearing if there's any other noticeable difference to natural hair with the premium synthetic. One thing I really like about sable is how well the paint deposits. With synthetic, I feel I have to smear it out but with sable it just kind of flows
>>
>>97746258
It's hard because he's right that you'll ruin your first brush, but also, at least for our uses, that any natural hair brush is still going to be so much better that it's hard to justify. The only time I feel like I could recommend synthetics is for solvent paints and effects, washes, and depending on your natural brush's tip quality you can get some very tiny inexpensive brushes that can sometimes be better for doing like eye-dots, they won't last and they're a pain to work with but if your natural brush doesn't keep it's tip they can be more useful for that for a few tries before the tip hooks.
>>
>>97746276
100% yeah
Some jobs are just rough on a brush. I'd add also that for for broad strokes basecoating, a large bellied synth is totally fine
>>
>>97746239
>price savings
I buy assorted packs of 20 brushes for like 4 dollars. If you pay more than 1 dollar for a sythetic brush you are getting ripped off. Thy are for bitch work, like applying an all over base coats, and applying washes. Sometimes the best way to get paint into a hard to reach spot is to just load up one thicc coat (tm) and smash the brush into the spot and wiggle it around. If a task can be done faster in a manner that abuses the brush, I use a synthetic brush. I use my really old natural hair brush for applying layers where I dont need a sharp point, and then I only use my fine tips for when I need it. The right brush is just the answer to the time and money equation.
>>
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>>97744936
I also started some terrain for my table.
>>
>>97746440
Tell me about this powerbar stand you have.
>>
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You guys ever built candles? How did you do them?
Pic are mine and they're a bit fun to do. RIP my fingertips though, using a drill on the tip of tiny plastic sticks wrecks the fingers.
>>
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>>97746508
Not much to say about it. Pretty cheap
I guess
>>
can you use a calligraphy brush to paint warhams?
>>
>>97746635
No.
Nerve gas.
>>
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I decided to paint a space marine, and want to give him sorta 2ed vibes. But I had only primaris at hand.
>>
>>97746842
Colors aren't vibrant enough tbdesu with you
>>
>>97746842
>Look at how the phone zoom massacred my boy
>>
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>>97746570
I made a ton of these for my old Death Guard army. I used three sizes of plasticard, tiny drill, and the candle wicks were made from staples. Wax was a combination of craft glue and greenstuff. This was the prototype. I ended up going with the long wispy flames instead of the small ones.
>>
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>>97745980
I’m refreshing my guard so I’ve got 2 ratlings, 10 kasrkin, 10 jungle fighters and 4 heavy weapons squads to finish, I’ll probably touch them up when I’m through that because I’ll polish/ink and touch up all of those when I’m done with a first paint job.
>just an aside
When I take pics with my personal android it AIs the shit out the image where mini look blotchy. When I use my iPhone from work it just flips the images. Damned if I do, damned if I do with the other OS
>>
>>97746842
Switch the gold for yellow and there you’re there
>>
>>97746570
>>97746879
nta but I saw a video where a guy made candles using insulated wire and clipping off a bit of the case then attaching hot glue to the exposed wire to make a flame on the wick
>>
The Twin lance kits released and shipped today. I still need to come up with an interesting way to paint them that's still in line with their original idea.
>>
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>>97746039
>>97746070
thx anon, but most of it is ur dad's so u should ask him

>>97746161
Oh dang. I see. what paint did you have on underneath? I like tamiya/alcohol acrylics for base coats bc I find them more durable; they only reactivate with alcohol

>>97746906
ya... I can't figure out how to get the android open camera thing to work either

have a doodle, noodles
>>
>>97747052
>dad's
My sides
>>
>>97746416
sounds like you've never used a decent synthetic, but somehow feel comfortable dishing out life advice.
>>
>>97747052
It was Vallejo (old) Grey Blue over their black primer. Back then I was still using spray cans so it was Vallejo "primer" in a can (probably it's just their normal paint but every single shop would sell it as primer). Also "back then" because she literally waited over 8 months or something like that after being primed.
>>
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So is this caused by too much water in my sponge, or is this just kinda normal?
>>
>>97747451
Are you sealing the lid? Too much moisture will cause separation. Leave the lid open slightly.
>>
>>97747475
this isn't me coming back to it, this is after maybe 45 minutes with it open while I'm currently painting
>>
>>97747491
Could be shit paper. I use the redgrass v2 and only get this problem if I leave too much on the palette overnight.
I've never been able to keep a blend intact overnight, despite what all the youtubers claim.
>>
>>97747515
I'm using both papers that came with mine, but it's not exactly a super high quality wet palette. Guess I'll try finding 'nice' palette papers whatever that constitutes. Thank you anon
>>
>>97747525
Definitely check out reviews on youtube. Paper quality seems to vary wildly.
>>
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started working on another revenant
>>
>>97747451
Does it apply poorly? If not, no problem.
>>
Railings WIP
>>
>>97747848
looking good!
>>
>>97747451
Just mix it back up with your brush. Should be fine.
>>
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Pretty cool to see my Chaplain in the thread collage, Here's the finished lad. I think I went to hard into the green but my I've been practicing balancing speed with quality so it doesn't bother me too much.
>>
Are there any tips or tricks for magnetising bases? I tried it a while ago with the blob of green stuff trick to make them flush, but when they dried some of them ended up pushing out a tiny bit and making the bases wobbly
>>
>>97748089
Put a piece of cellophane tape down on the metal surface and when you put the magnet in, press the base down flat on the surface.
You can do the same any time you're magnetizing anything to make sure the magnet is flush with the surface properly so you don't get any squeeze out or any gaps that might reduce the magnet power
>>
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Finally got around to varnishing her and thought I'd add a couple highlights and take a decent photo.
Anyone have tips for taking photos (specifically getting good lighting) while travelling? I'm away from home right now and can't use the setup/camera I would otherwise.
>>
>>97748194
Idk, that photo looks okay. maybe you could use white paper as a makeshift reflector/bounce card.
If it's that important just take mid photos when out and good photos when you get back home.
>>
>>97748089
the trick is to not glue the magnet directly to the base, but a thin piece of metal and then keep the magnet loose. The metal has a stronger bonding than magnets and also it keeps the minis from sticking together.
I usually cut a 5mm strip out of thin steel sheet (like the ones that come with magnetic white boards).
>>
>>97748383
I don't understand, how do you keep the magnet attached to the base?
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I've missed painting battlesuits so much bros

This is the best I've felt in months desu
>>
>>97748459
just got that kit myself today, hopefully I can finish up this riptide soon and get them done as well
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>>97748394
Are you asking how a magnet stays attached to a piece of steel?
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>>97748568
No? I'm asking how the magnet stays attached to the base. The point of magnetizing bases is so you can stick the models onto a metal sheet for easier and safer transport.
What anon here >>97748383 seems to be suggesting is that you just glue a piece of metal to the underside of the base, and then put the magnet on it. But if you put that on a metal sheet for transport, when you pull the model away the magnet will do whatever the fuck it wants. Stick to the base, stick to the sheet, flip around, stick to another magnet, etc. I don't see how that's a good solution.
>>
>>97748656
You don't need the magnet to stay on the base during a game. In fact, that anon specifically said it keeps the minis from sticking together, implying they're supposed to come off.
Magnets on bases are just for transport, why would you care if they can be detached?
>>
Do Citadel/Vallejo washes over normal paints give the same effect as just Contrast/Speed paints in terms of shadows?

I'm thinking of using normal paints, going in for a wash, then maybe going over the most raised parts with the normal paints or maybe a little lighter to add highlights.

Or should I just switch to contrast paints. If I don't want to spend an hour on each guy in my entire army?
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>>97747851
>>97747848
Every time
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>>97748727
turn off your flash
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>>97748677
I like the additional weight the magnet adds. I guess gluing a chunk of steel would do the same thing...
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>>97748704
Similar, but you can have your wash/base be different colours (brown/white for example), and you can touch up with your basecoat colour wayy easier. There aren't always going to be good colour matches for contrast paints.
Normal paints are better for cleaner/sharper paint jobs, contrasts are better for natural materials.
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>>97748677
Because the magnets will move around when you remove the minis, so you'll have to rearrange the magnets when you put the minis back in.

The loos magnets scheme offers zero advantage over just affixing magnets to the base.
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>>97748777
I was thinking mostly using a brown wash. I also don't want to darken the base coat too much outside of folds/pockets. Should I only apply it in places I'm trying to darken or so I apply it all over and let it pool where it wants?
>>
>>97748842
your choice
You can recess/pin wash, or do an allover wash. There will be a noticeable border if the wash ends halfway across a flat area though, but you can touch up anything you don't want to see with some more of your base coat.
>>
>>97747258
Sorry but you dont need to be a little shit right out the gate just because you disagree with my advice. I do in fact have some expensive synthetic brushes (Utrecht) which are like 8 to 10 dollars a brush. They all have curled tips after about 2-3 uses. Until they develop a new technology to produce synthetic bristles differently no amount of fancy branding and quality control can fix the inherent quality that the bristles bend and curl when damaged, where natural hair develop split ends instead.
>>
>>97741025
Yes, you can use a spray primer for touchups. You might need a couple of layers if you're painting it on with a brush but it works fine.
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>>97748792
what if you glue the magnets to your carrier though? then when you want to put your minis away you just have to drop the bases over the magnets in a predefined spacing.
>>
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Finished the bolts and sprayed up the Battle Wagon I've been workin' on.
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>>97745912
I'm 85% sure they only advertise those shitty brushes as "miniature painting brushes" because they're cheaper to produce and the know the average 40k idiot is simultaneously a cheapskate and not very discerning.
>>
>>97748089
>I tried it a while ago with the blob of green stuff trick to make them flush
Why this step?
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>>97749128
some people seem to think that magnets need to touch the thing they are connecting to, like an adhesive
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>>97748194
Looks fine. You could edit it slightly by upping the contrast.
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>>97748945
Then you lose flexibility in your carrier, you could run into problems if you glue the magnets for a horde army but then shift to an elite list.
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>>97749131
It does give you a much firmer hold
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>>97749489
less than a millimetre difference is not going to seriously affect your little plastic infantry models, especially if you're using proper n50+ magnets
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>>97748945
Resilient but inflexible, especially more damning if you mess up the polarity by accident. Good enough magnets on a metal tray, toolbox, biscuit tin or other equivalent will suffice and they don't need to be flush.
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>>97749523
the polarity shouldn't matter if there's no magnets on the base itself, which is what we're talking about
>>
I think I'm just gonna put the bases on a flat surface and put something heavy on top of them while they dry. That should result in the magnets being perfectly flush without much fuss or reinventing the wheel
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>>97749594
what i do is place a small piece of electrical tape on the cutting mat put the magnet on top, loctite, a small ball of putty, loctite, and press the base on top, the tape will give you just enough clearance for the magnet to be almost flush without sticking out, and the putty fills whatever gap needed
>>
>>97749691
ooh, that's a good idea
>>
Help me, WIP I am in need of advice from experience.

If I drill my barrels off-centre is greenstuff or milliput the better choice for filling the barrel and waiting for it to harden then try again?
>>
>>97749938
Milliput, greenstuff is too soft.
I will say that most people aren't going to care about off-centre gun barrels. GW themselves don't even care enough to use the same size drill bit for units in the same squad.
But if you want to make sure your barrels are centred in the future, mark a cross with your hobby knife to find the centre, then use a small drill bit to a make pilot hole before moving up to your main bit.
>>
>>97749980
>Milliput
Thank you!
>mark a cross with your hobby knife to find the centre
I don't know why I never thought of that.
Thank you.
Thank you very much.
>>
>>97749980
>>97750017
some here recomended to take a piece of plastic (sprue for example), drill a through hole the size you want the barrel hole, then drill a larger hole using said hole as a guide the size of the outside of the barrel, but don't go all the way, now you have a jig to place on the barrel to use as a guide
have yet to try it but the logic checks out
>>
>>97749545
It still sounds like more trouble than what it's worth. The advantage of magnetized storage to me is being far less fiddly and being based on volume of the container itself than needing to make tailored space like a pluck-foam one, so being far more freeform. In regards to the suggestion of fixing the magnets, I think doing that kind of defeats one of the benefits.

Regardless, I've found it interesting to look into all kinds of transport solutions.
>>
Testing
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Starting to paint minis for the first time in too long, and im trying to settle on how to do the yellow for my Imperial Fists:

Each mini is primed in Wraithbone.
Leftmost is just 1 coat of Imperial Fists Yellow contrast paint, obviously too light
Second is 2 coats
Third is 1 coat washed with a roughly 1-1 blend of Cassandora Yellow and Lahmian Medium
Fourth is as third, except the blend is roughly 3-1 in favor of the Yellow.

I'm planning on drybrushing and highlighting with Dorn Yellow, but hesitate to continue before choosing which shade to go for
>>
>>97750541
Phoneposting, so I have no clue why the pic rotated 90°
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>>97750554
4chan strips metadata from all images. Phones store rotation information in the metadata. Hence, phoneposters get rotated.
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>>97750554
Crop the image slightly before you post
>>
>>97750541
why wash yellow with more yellow? I would try a black or dark gray wash.

>>97750633
or just stop phoneposting
>>
To the anon who a while ago called me a retard for using paper towels to wipe excess water off my brush and to use a tissue instead: thank you. You've done a great service to the quality of my painting.
>>
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Calling her almost done. Only thing left is the mirror, which is going to be a pain in the ass.
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>>97750700
Personally would've painted the mirror before the trim, but I guess the trim is easier to touch up if you fuck up.
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>Haven't painted for about half a year
>Pull out my paints
>My purple turned blue
???
>>
>>97750722
>a good third of my paints dried out completely because of GWs dogshit paint bottle design
Bros...
>>
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>>97750734
>>
Probably somebody had this question before but - for red I would usually use GW Khorne Red, Mephiston Red and Evil Suns Scarlet, mixing between for smoother transitons. If I would want to switch to AK paints, so I could also use them with airbrush, which colors would be closest match for these three?
>>
>>97750722
>>97750734
>>97750743
Add a bit of water, shake, then stir with a nail for a bit and you should get a biy more life out of them
>>
>>97750691
>why wash yellow with more yellow?
Because it shifts the tone to the more gold-like yellow the Imperial Fists are supposed to be, whereas a black or dark wash would just make it a darker yellow. It's not just for the recesses, it's the flat surfaces as well that I'm trying to shift the tone of.
>>
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>>97750775
>>
>>97750722
Probably a mix of blue and red particles to make purple which are slightly different in weight and have thus separated. A good stir should fix it.
>>
>>97750775
Whoops didn't mean to post the image alone. These probably won't be exact matches but if I had to pick 3 paints from here it'd be dirty red - deep red/scarlet red - amaranth red/sun red
>>
>>97745904
That's fucking grotesque. Well done.
>>
>>97750829
>>97750817
Alright, thanks.
>>
>>97745940
Thanks anon!
>>
Is Windsor and Newton sable brush the one to get? any reason to get something else? I was thinking of getting a #2 sable brush that's not synthetic.
>>
>>>97684960
my crackle arrived, trying this now
>>
>>97751392
Honestly, they are way too expensive in my opinion. I would rather grab da Vinci or Kolibri but it also depends on where you live (both of those are from Germany).
>>
Are sable brushes still fuck off expensive thanks to all these interesting times we live in? I only have one and would like to have a couple more so I can start using them for general work instead of only fine detail work.
>>
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Progress is slow, but here's a sun wizard and some others. I tried doing a farmers tan in the girl and elf, think it looks ok?
I am pretty happy that I found a wizard that works for orange robes, I have an idea for a wizard set of the spectrum of colors
>>
>>97750806
can you get the color you want by using a different base color under the yellow contrast?
>>
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Better lighting maybe
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>>97750696
What’s wrong with paper towels?
>>
>>97751797
>>97751804
Colors are lovely but theyre pretty flat
They could do with darker shadows or brighter highlights.
Or both.
>>
>>97751817
they absorb a lot of water. wet sponges still leave enough water on the brush that it doesn't dry out
>>
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Do these look like candles on their backs? Should I cange their colors?
>>97746879
Man these looks fucking great. Too bad I cant greenstuff for shit and my autism prevents me from putting a flame on my candles. No way can the flames still be on while the guys are swinging their hammers around.
>>
>>97752087
i think most church candles are a little more yellow
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I wanted to make this guy a ginger, I had a good thing going. i started from brown, added coat of dark red, redish wash.. And it went to shit the momet I touched orange paint
>>
>>97738525
Thank you.

>>97738562
I tried making the skeleton look dirty with pastels but I think I need texture paste for dirt clumps. Maybe for another project.
>>97745851
Heart hands because it was supposed to be Valentine's themed.
>>
>>97749938
Milliput. I could also try sprue goo.
>>
>>97752092
orthodox candles are all red
>>
>>97752139
either way, i don't think candles on armor would be white like they're factory new
>>
>>97751392
I've heard of quality issues but I have not experience them myself. Perhaps check out daVinci or Raphael as alternatives, kolinsky brushes are worth the investment if you want detail.
>>
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Almost done.

>>97745904
Thanks!
>>
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>>97752410
Other side
>>
Anyone here know of an easy way to remove already applied transfers?
I've seen mention of windex and a paper towel
Mostly looking to avoid scraping .
>>
>>97752410
what metal is that cause I really don't like it
>>
>>97752764
I'm guessing aluminum flakes suspended in acrylic medium.
>>
>>97752862
I mean which brand so I know not to buy it
>>
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booba
>>
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So the flesh colored marine turned into a desert camo look. I actually really.like the way this guy is going.
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>>97752941
he looks crusty strip him and start over
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Working on converting some seraphim/zephyrim. Here's the jump pack canoness so far
>>
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Zephyrim leaning against a base it will later be leaping off of
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>>97752410
looks like you added some shadows and highlights to the blue, are you going to do that for the metal too?
>>
>>97749055
Yeh I cant tell if they are trying to be malicious or if they call them miniature cause, well, they are miniature, rather than "for miniatures".
>>
Now that Mr. Hobby sprays got extinct in the US, which metal primer should I use? Anything you guys can recommend?
>>
>>97749055
>$73 for a size 3 sable
Jesus fucking Christ. I know natural hair brushes are expensive but that's fucking outrageous.
>>
I get that airbrushed are good for big pieces or vehicles. But what about 28mm figures? Am I supposed just use it for base coasting the entire thing? I can't image even with a .2mm nozzle Im going to be able to paint different articles of clothing/armor, the face without it spilling over to other parts.
>>
>>97753517
airbrushes aren't like rattle cans because you can control the flow of paint. If you get the airbrush really close you can cover a tiny area without risk of paint pooling like it would with a rattle can, and there are lots of ways to mask off areas you don't want to spray
>>
>>97753301
Some thicker sable brushes can get even more expensive than that.
Most mini painters don't know how expensive they can get, because they are getting the brush equivalent of gold leaf, a tiny amount of an otherwise expensive product.
That's without even mentioning the fact that the gender of the sable also matters for the highest quality sable brushes, which also contributes to a higher price.
>>
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Some more of my converted/kitbashed halfling heavy infantry concept minis. I posted the one on the right the other day. I was thinking he was going to be a standard bearer but I thought he looked like a halberd kinda guy for some reason.

The one on the left I did over the weekend. I was going for a pavaisier sort of look. The large shield and shorter spear combination. For these two guys I was looking to create poses that were rankable but still distinct and visually interesting with their own sort of personality.

The way I went about the helmets was aesthetically inspired by the pickelhaube, except with a fleur de Lys instead of a spike, as you see. The kettle helmet combined with it works pretty well I think. Gives it a sort of mass produced yet regal sort of look, I think

Overall they're pretty cool I think.
>>
>>97749055
I'd guess also that it's because getting hold of quality sable brushes is a lot easier said than done, especially if you don't know what to look for. The arts and crafts chains in my area carry the most dogshit synthetics to ever exist, while the FLGS has overpriced GW synthetics and a very sad looking stand of WN Series 7s that's been restocked maybe twice in the last five years. Most people seem content with GW synthetics...
>>
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Then there's this guy I did a week or two back. Still haven't finished him. He's a sort of elite/champion heavy infantry type. A more dynamic and action oriented pose than the other two. The way he is done makes him less than ideal for ranking up though. The hammer really takes up quite a bit of space on either side.

I mostly play skirmish games though, so that's why they end up on the circular bases. My favorite system is called clash of spears. It's almost a hybrid between a rank n flank and a skirmish game. The rules are pretty straight forward but quite eloquent. Command point system with on the field commanders who have a command range for optimal point usage. Orders can still be issued out of range but it costs more points and requires activation rolls. Kinda like Warmaster, I think. There are 3 troop qualities and then from there it's subtypes of equipment/troop types.

It was written for ancient warfare but it's incredibly adaptable.

Some very clever symbiosis of rules in there.

On the field troops can assume 1 of 2 formation types. Loose, which the minis are scattered around within a certain range of eachother. Think like gws LOTR. In this formation they move further and can engage an enemy from any direction. They are vulnerable to ranged attacks and cavalry charges, and easier to displace by ranked formations.

Then there is ranked formation. This is where the rank n flank aspects come into play. Minis are ranked up in rows like Warhammer. They can only engage the enemy in front of them, they can't move as far, but theyre far more resistant to any attack from the front and being displaced by an attacking enemy. The interesting part is that if this formation is attacked from the side, it is broken into loose formation. So a successful flank at a critical moment can change the game. There's also reaction mechanics so you can lay traps for your opponent.

Great ruleset. Very intuitive and easy to pick up.
>>
I almost forgot. While I was messing around with some posing for more conversions I realized that you could make a really cool bloodbowl proxy team with these guys, with a little bit of creativity and spare bits. Lots of potential for all kinds of poses.
>>
>>97753591
I'm not 100% sure, but I think this is nearly double what I paid for a size 2 of this eaxact brush range like 3-4 years ago.
>>
>Try sable mixed synthetic brush
>Still get hooked after few hours of painting
What is the point of these mixed animal hair brush?
>>
>>97754203
Marketing, you got tricked.
"Why do I still go blind when I mix my methanol with coffee?" It's still got methanol in it, it still has all the same problems.
>>
Some Wagon progress. Hoping this thing goes faster than my buggy. Did a dry brush over the base coat. Which I hope did a lot of the work for me.
>>
>>97751893
What am i suppose to wipe then? Kitchen sponge?
>>
New thread:

>>97754417
>>97754417
>>97754417



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