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File: 1744219953214452.png (1.95 MB, 1876x881)
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WIP In Progress Edition

>Full-on /WIP/ OP Links Pastebin
https://pastebin.com/BE42AEcD

>WIP Tutorial Images Mega
https://mega.nz/#F!TvQFCaLb!w8WZKCcOsTRasxrI0JWezw

>Saint Duncan's "Six Things I Wish I Knew When I Started Painting"
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ufP8ka3KGno

>Saint Duncan also explains thinning your paints
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wxWgsqSf74s

>Paint thinning 102
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sBDVPoNXyVI

>4 EASY Chipping Tricks For Beginners
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ku4comhKHJM

>Decal Like a Pro
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SYKLiEW7p9c

>How to Edge Highlight
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KoRbYuAfbEk

>How to use contrast style paints
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IhholrozptI

>How to Paint with Tremors
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oqp76vAJu9g

>Airbrush Priming and Thinning
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jkntrSBvXxE
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IGjBQzoukFg
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=00JVUxABe44
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AEqT_R41JX8

>In the Grim Darkness of the Far Future,There is Only... MUSIC!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=59NORGNnWlQ

>Who's Johnny, she'd say, and smile in her special way
https://1d6chan.miraheze.org/wiki/Johnny

>Previous Threads:
>>97802752
>>97787373
>>97767907
>>
I apologize for fucking up the backlink:
>Previous Thread
>>97821051
>>
>didnt make it to the collage this time
owari da...
>>
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Nothing makes me feel more retarded than using the airbrush. This hellish implement genuinely makes me wonder if tool usage is a human universal. Every single fucking time I fuck up the mix. "Just go for the consistency of skim milk", then I do that, and sometimes it will be basically spraying water on the model, other times I'll get a clog. Then the trigger, I'll be spraying normally then suddenly it becomes a fucking paint shotgun. I don't fucking get it. Why can't I wrap my head around it at all? Why did I pick up an artistic hobby when I am retarded? How am I being filtered by mixing fucking paints?
>>
>>97841034
watch the spray, not the mix, test and adjust as needed
>>
>>97841034
I prefer the wisdom of the H&S video where they recommend you mix in a dish and then test how it drips to check the consistency. I don't tend to prod skimmed milk in a dish, so I struggle to relate it to paint
Honestly, airbrushing can be a breeze for some paints and a nightmare for others, so I wouldn't say this is exclusively a "you" thing. I struggle like fuck to get red to spray neatly without clogging or sputtering, and it seems to want to turn into a stretchy latex consistency when drying even if thinned properly
>>
>>97841034
If that would make you feel better, I still couldn't figure out why I get internal (inside nozzle, around the needle) drying problem and after being convinced it must be related to imperfections of parts of my Chinese (Polish-Chinese, to be honest) airbrush, I bought H&S Evolution - only to find out that problem persist. So I wasted money to get very expensive tool only to find out that problem lied elsewhere. Oh and factory workers screwed some elements like needle handle so tight that I had to use tools and WD40 to unscrew it (used clothes for securing the surface to prevent scratches but middle golden part still got some).

If you are retarded, that makes two of us.
>>
>>97841034
Anon, are you still struggling with the airbrush? I was reading your posts in the past few threads, but I was in a country that's IP rangebanned, so I couldn't reply. Guide me through your process, from mixing paints (ratios, what kind of paints/thinners/flow improvers you use, how do you mix them, what colors are you trying), tell me what compressor are you using/what PSI, tell me how do you actually spray (are you using proper technique?), and how long do you keep the paint inside your airbrush, too. I'm pretty sure you are doing some elementary thing wrong, and that's solvable.
t. airbrush autist

btw "Just go for the consistency of skim milk" is a retarded advice. It's true, but retarded. Better way to know if you have your paints thinned enough is to just dip some shitty old brush into it, and let the drop of paint fall down; it shouldn't have any strings or similar, it should be just a pure drop, the moment the liquid is taking it's time or have a "tail", you need to thin more.
>>
>>97841034
As always, needle size? Small needles clog exponentially faster.
>>
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Any anons in here with a good substitute for Imotekh's fuckass pedestal? It's such an absurd tactical rock.
>>
>>97841006
I think that was old WIP banner anyway, I see pics from two threads ago.
>>
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How should I shave off this kind of residue on a 3d print? Is it files like regular plastic or should I use sandpaper or try scraping it?
>>
>>97841076
scraping would ruin the finish, use different grits of sandpaper/sanding sticks
>>
>>97836922
Did a little bit more but still looking for feedback before I fully commit.
>>
>>97841059
I don't want to impersonate somebody else by accident but by saying *posts in the past few threads", do you mean anon, who had problem with paint drying inside the nozzle and not on the tip, clogging airbrush after few minutes of usage? Because I reported such problems fee times, desperately trying to find some solution but again, don't want to "jump in place" of somebody else that might need help more.
>>
>Mix milliput
>Sculpt some bases
>A week later prime and paint them
>Glue the minis on them
>Start trimming the edges to make it neater
>The milliput is still soft
FUUUUUUCK
>>
>>97841160
Yes. You also got Evolution, right?
>>
>>97841168
Yup. Also tried Tamiya paints (acrylics) with their thinner to test out since they are alcohol based and thus some sort of "autocleaning", they didn't clog but after spraying there was still present paint inside the nozzle.

Overall, I find that Evolution harder to work with - trigger moves easily back now (used to work hard at beginning) but it still puts visible resistance when I press it for air and nozzle itself is quite long, longer than my longest synthetic brush I would normally use to clean it.
>>
>>97841162
seems like you used the wrong proportion when mixing anon, it should be fully hard in less than 24 hours
>>
>>97841183
I wanna help out, but I need you to describe the entire process, anon.
>nozzle is long
In normal use, you don't have to worry about nozzle at all, just clean the needle from time to time with a brush dipped into cleaner, or just with your fingers.
Wait, you aren't opening/messing with the nozzle with the paint inside your airbrush/cup, right?
>>
>trying a different color scheme
>don't like it at first
>thought it would grow on me once I do some more work
>it didn't
Oh well, time to strip it. At least it was only 2 sessions worth of time.
>>
>>97841213
Could be worse.
>trying a color scheme
>like it
>paint it on more dudes
>start hating it
>strip the paint off my army
>reprime everyone
>start thinking about other ways to paint them
>end up painting them in the same way but with a different metallic color
>>
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>>97840919
>>
>>97841189
I mixed half/half, but it was old and unsealed so I guess it somehow got bad
>>
>>97841209
No, I always empty the cup and flush it with water/cleaner before opening.

As for process, after setting up pressure (tried 1.2, 1.5, 1.8, 2.0 bar) I would pour thinner first into the cup, then paint, keeping thinning at 1:1 ratio or slightly more thinner than paint (which would usually cause paint to flow pretty easily inside the cup, I also tried replacing roughly 20% of thinner part with flow improver), more thinner would make paint flow on the sprayed surface and visibly moisture paper when sprayed on it. I would mix it with soft, long brush inside the cup, tried mixing outside but it would only mean wasting a lot of paint that was left in tray and I once accidentally caught some dried up lump with it and completely jam the nozzle (really, when I noticed that needle would not return to "standby" position I knew that things went south bad). After done spraying, I would clean it by first using that squeeze bottles to remove whatever was left in cup with water, wipe gently inside of cup and add some cleaner (Vallejo one). It was then when I would often notice thin layer of paint on the needle when pulling trigger fully back and if I would try that "bubble back" method, it would blow back paint to the cup - even after few of such flushes.
>>
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so how should i go with these ? red and bronze like on the box ? black and gold ? deep blue and gold ?
>>
>>97841034
Just test it on plastic spoon before spraying
>>
>>97841315
Deep blue and copper/bronze.
>>
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>>97841307
>No, I always empty the cup and flush it with water/cleaner before opening.
There's still no reason to mess with it unless you are cleaning the entire thing.
>the process
Sounds alright. But are you cleaning the needle during spraying? I can't see that in the text. You should be constantly checking up on the needle when you are spraying - the paint sticks there naturally, that's just the nature of the beast, and you need to keep cleaning it to prevent clogging. Smaller nozzle/needle, less pressure (when spraying little, detailed stuff) usually requires more flow improver and more frequent cleaning, and vice versa.
Most people clean it with an old brush soaked in cleaner. A lot of people just use their fingers to remove the paint from the needle - just like picrel (Jose). I prefer the brush method.
Braping the paint back is only good for mixing (and cleaning, when you have a cleaner/clean water in the cup), and I still don't really consider it that optimal, since it often messes up the insides. But if you are already halfway to a clog, don't do it, it will only make the issue worse.

Also, how's your spraying technique? Are you holding it down and just spraying, or are you doing the back and forth movement while keeping the airflow on?
>>
>>97841353
I was checking the needle tip after spraying but it usually remains clean and free from paint. Sometimes when I notice that there is indeed some layer forming here, I would use makeup brush (since they are so soft) with water to clean it. But clogging would still happen.

As for trigger movement, I noticed that a lot of YT guys recommend that pulse trigger movement but I found out that I cannot maintain it consistent (unless I use that limiter on the back) so I simply hold for air, pull back until it start to spray and try to keep it here. I also remember to move it forward to "standby" position before closing air. But often keep air blowing when I adjust position for, say, another line, even with needle not retracted and paint not flowing.
>>
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Brainstorming an idea I should have started weeks ago. What do you think? 32mm or 40mm?
>>
>>97841413
Looks a bit too cluttered on 32mm so I'd go with 40mm, myself
>>
>>97841411
>I was checking the needle tip after spraying but it usually remains clean and free from paint
No no no, no. You NEED to clean the needle regularly DURING spraying, anon. That's literally the most important basic rule of airbrushing. Especially if you are doing acrylics. Experienced airbrush artists do this compulsively every (half a) minute or so, depending on what they are working on. If you don't do this, it WILL lead to clogging. It can give you gradual clogs, too, if you half-ass it. You need to keep the needle as clean as possible. Try doing it with a cleaner instead of water; you can keep just a tiny amount of it in a pot next to you, dip your brush (I use old dry brush, since it is soft, but still abrasive enough) into it, and clean the needle of ALL paint, no matter how little there is.
I can't stress how important this is, especially if you are new and keep your air continuously on (which leads to further drying of the paint on the needle). You can help this by using more flow improver, but you still need to clean the needle regularly during spraying. This is why brushes like Evolution that have the needle directly available, are always better.

Yes, pulsing is the optimal way, because it minimizes clogging and delays the need for cleaning the needle.

Also, are you keeping the paint inside the cup for prolonged periods of time? If so, don't do that. Consider airbrush a wet medium; if you are taking a break for a few minutes or so, it's better to flush the paint, fill the cup with water before leaving. Never keep just the paint inside your cup doing nothing.
>>
>>97841476
Sorry, I mean "after spraying" as in "spray few lines, release trigger and check the needle tip", not after whole process is done. I was just thinking something is wrong since everyone mention this tip drying problem while I didn't notice paint gathering and drying there. But why exactly would keeping air flowing cause further dry? Wouldn't air flow blow away what was left on the tip? And no, I try to avoid leaving paint in the cup, keep it here only for a long as I spray.
>>
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Finished my Notagriff
>>
>airbruschizo still at it
Jesus Christ
>>
>>97841602
It's on topic and not shitposting, I don't mind
>>
>>97841602
Discussing technique and tools is not "schizo"? If someone would try to wonder why his paint dries to fast on their 0s brush, would you call them schizo too?
>>
>>97841629
*now

Fucking autocorrect, I wish I could turn this off completely.
>>
>>97841637
you can, it's called not phoneposting
>>
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This guy took a lot of fiddling to get looking decent on a 25mm base. Sort of a heavy handgunner concept. A more industrialized appearance than the other handgunner.

Still deciding on his side arm, I was kind of thinking a falchion would look cool. They have that sort of weighty and mass produced appearance to them compared to the fancier renaissance and late medieval swords. I think it would fit the aesthetic well. I was thinking of maybe hanging a little pan or something from his blanket roll there on the shield, to give him a real "on campaign" self sufficient kind of appearance.
>>
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Happy Easter!
Updated elf pic, I'm liking the red more than the purple
>>
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And one with the gem
>>
>>97841627
>>97841629
>noooo guys I tried fucking absolutely literally everything but I cant airbrush properly no matter what it must be some kind of weird pocket dimension where my airbrush wont work properly no matter what i swear guise!!!!!!!!!111!!!one!
>>
>>97841810
Better throw it all into trash instead of trying to find out probably overlooked but elementary cause that everyone else no longer even consider? God forbid discussing painting techniques in /WIP/ thread.
>>
>>97841810
yeah we should instead argue about varnishes, highlighting black, primers or whatever the fuck craftsperg decides to shitpost about today
>>
>>97841521
>Wouldn't air flow blow away what was left on the tip?
Some, but when it's already dried a bit, it will only make it worse. Which is bound to happen unless you clean it regularly.

Anyway, have you tried different compressors? And, you bought it directly from HS? If so, you tried contacting them? If not, is the place where you bought it actual place, or just an eshop? If they have an actual store, it might be a good idea to literally bring the airbrush there and try it out. Or at least send them a message, asking them about the issue.
Btw, if you are from EU, you should be able to buy something and return it in 14 days no questions asked. Might be worth trying different compressors that way.
>>
>use lacquer
>smell lacquer thinner
>Never have problems with tip dry, paint drying on the nozzle, or going bankrupt because acrylic thinner is overpriced trash
>>
>>97841861
>use acrylics
>never have problems with tip dry, paint drying on the nozzle, or going bankrupt
huh.
Same thing with enamels, btw.
>>
>>97841869
There is no acrylic paint that doesn’t cause tip dry
>>
>>97841034
you bought the model with the trigger preset dial why aren't you using it?
>>
>>97841904
Yes, but you can just clean it, you know. Takes less than three seconds.
>>
>>97841857
I don't think that compressor would change anything, even if, I don't really have a choice as I only have Chinese compressors at shops to pick from. But it have that moisture trap at the front, which actually catch some water so I guess it works. Air also flows without issues. Didn't buy from H&S directly but from local shop, emailed H&S about possible causes/solutions but they never replied. 14 days passed long time ago.

I appreciate your help but maybe I'm just unnaturally unlucky.

>>97841861
*cough, cough*
>>
>>97841912
If you’re not careful it will damage the needle, lacquer is better
>>
>>97841935
I'm a big retard and I never managed to damage my needle by just cleaning the tip.
>>
>>97841935
Needles are actually a lot stronger than people assume. Even Chinese cheap ones tips cannot be bent with fingers.
>>
>>97841307
mixing paint in a cup before putting it into the airbrush shouldn't be wasting hardly anything if it's correctly thinned, and if you have lumps in it you aren't shaking it enough.
>>
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Konrad Kurze WIP, I'm slow AF.
Also choosing to make it full silver NMM was not my best choice.

Wish me luck anons
>>
>>97841521
>wouldn't airflow blow away what was left on the tip?
The H&S instructional videos explain that having a dry tip is always a bad thing, and until you've cleaned thoroughly you want to make sure the tip stays wet. They advise having a semi-regular blast through with a large amount of paint when doing detail work to make sure the paint stays wet. Not letting off the air regularly, or using too much air for the amount of paint you're spraying, is probably what's killing your technique.
>>
>>97842165
Seems like airbrushing is a lot harder than what people "paint" it (heh), requiring very precise movements.
>>
>>97842217
It has a knack, like any skill. When you get the muscle memory and habits developed, you won't think anything of it
Also, kek
>>
>>97841592
I like it, how did you weather it?
>>97841315
Maroon, gold and navy blue trim
>>
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Finished off the missile drones and airbrushed the white onto my sub assemblies for a broadside. Just waiting for it to dry and I should finish painting it tonight.
>>
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did this yesterday. it's hot flouro pink irl but the camera wants it to be red
>>
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doin up this one today. my paints are looking a bit grim
>>
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First time in months I genuinely want to abandon miniature and admit it defeated me, being too hard for me to finish. After washes started to work on skin and white (sort of, it's supposed to be white but it will be left this green-like) but I constantly go over the area, strokes are clearly visible and I have actual physical problems focusing my eyes on where brush is supposed to go, sometimes getting double vision if I won't focus back.
>>
>>97842351
I think u might be overthinking it? looks fine to me. r u wearing magnifying glasses or smth?

>>97842252
kawaiii~!

>>97841787
based chad elves

>>97841592
cute
>>
>>97842351
s'aight anon.
Just a couple highlights, and you can be free.
>>
>>97841413
32mm, too much empty space on the 40mm even if u add flowers

>>97841315
do the metals like verdigris and gold and the furs purple and the skins various colours? orange or greens? u have lots of various d00dz so u could do various schemes
>>
>>97842418
Not magnifying, normal glasses, some time ago I started to use +1 glasses since I noticed I have trouble to see some details, now it's a problem with those as well, I'm worried.
>>
>>97842144
Great work on the face
>>
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>>97842247
>How did you weather it
By fucking up the enamel wash and then trying to cover it up with a heavy overbrush. If you like it I'll chalk it up to a happy little accident.
>>
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Wondering if I should re-do and swap the position of the colors on the lightning.
>>
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>>97841787
Happy Easter, anon!

>>97841006
>>97841067
>I think that was old WIP banner anyway
I took the day off from making us a collage. I'll do us one next time.
>>
>>97841914
>emailed H&S about possible causes/solutions but they never replied
Yeah, they tend not to reply to people who didn't buy from them. Tho you could get sneaky, and try commenting under their unlisted Youtube videos (you get a link with a QR code that comes with your airbrush), Warwick tends to reply to all of the comments. You can use my link, too: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7Nb0N0UBPvI

Otherwise, if you have a hobby or art center nearby, literally take the airbrush there and try it out with other people. Or, try to describe your issue to a Grok or something similar. It's a long shot, AI tends to be retarded as fuck, but it can occasionally find some poor motherfucker on some page 59 Google results that got same issue as you.
>>
>>97842577
What happened? It looks like the paint is peeling.
>>
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Almost finished my Predator
>>
>>97842577
it's cute. Looks like one of those chibi metal slug tanks
>>
>>97842706
AI really can get super retarded due to all the Reddit bullshit it was fed during training, ChatGPT for once assumed that I should use LESS thinner because "it makes paint dry faster". I fail to see a logic here.

Pretty bummer on H&S reply policy but thanks for video tip, maybe I should try that with Evolution video, no idea why they delist it however and how it differs from what they already openly show on their YT channel.

I guess I should spend less time on theorising and more on actual field testing but so far whole setup before and after really takes a lot of time plus breathing in half-mask is problematic (cannot have active ventilation, have to suffice with cardboard box and mask to prevent inhaling whatever would bounce back).
>>
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I'm pretty much done the ghost lady. I don't know what I'm gonna do with the base, probably just phone it in and do some sponge concrete and dust.
>>
>>97842924
I really like the braid here, very fine job.
>>
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>>97842217
>Seems like airbrushing is a lot harder than what people "paint" it
>>
Any tips on how to make a regular sword painted in TMM look interesting? I've seen how a lot of shadows and highlights can make a more interesting shaped weapon look really good, but a sword is usually just a couple of flat planes. I've never managed a sword that I think looks good or draws the eye.
>>
>>97842981
Do what BT anon does.
>>
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>>97842981
shade it with a wash/contrast/glaze in a NMM-ish style
>>
>>97842981
If you have a transparent paint mix a tiny bit of it into your metallic for your base color. You can use the pure metallic as your highlight and the pure transparent to glaze your shadows. Kind of like if you're painting white armor where you need to use white as your brightest highlight since you can't go brighter, instead relying on contrast from your midtone and shadow to make it look white.
>>
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done for today



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