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Work in Progress, "Saturday Night Special" Edition

>Full-on /WIP/ OP Links Pastebin
https://pastebin.com/BE42AEcD

>WIP Tutorial Images Mega
https://mega.nz/#F!TvQFCaLb!w8WZKCcOsTRasxrI0JWezw

>Saint Duncan's "Six Things I Wish I Knew When I Started Painting"
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ufP8ka3KGno

>Saint Duncan also explains thinning your paints
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wxWgsqSf74s

>Paint thinning 102
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sBDVPoNXyVI

>4 EASY Chipping Tricks For Beginners
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ku4comhKHJM

>Decal Like a Pro
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SYKLiEW7p9c

>How to Edge Highlight
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KoRbYuAfbEk

>How to use contrast style paints
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IhholrozptI

>How to Paint with Tremors
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oqp76vAJu9g

>Airbrush Priming and Thinning
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jkntrSBvXxE
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IGjBQzoukFg
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=00JVUxABe44
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AEqT_R41JX8

>Who's Johnny, she'd say, and smile in her special way
https://1d6chan.miraheze.org/wiki/Johnny

>Previous Threads:
>>98015749
>>98003339
>>97991865
>>
File: 1.jpg (562 KB, 4096x3072)
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Finally sat down and bashed out the prep work for all these foamcore bases meant for scatter terrain today. Half are dirt, the other half are arid/iron-rich red rock. Got the scatter terrain features primed up and ready to paint next.

Reposting because I literally chucked this up right as the new thread got made.
>>
File: 2.jpg (602 KB, 4096x3072)
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>>98025043
Leaving the bases to dry for a couple of hours and to take a break in between painting sessions. Next I get to sit down and take my pick of which scenery bits I want to paint up first.
>>
File: 3.jpg (351 KB, 4096x3072)
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>>98025045
Bonus picture, going to print out a half dozen of these little guys and leave them un-based so I can just put them onto models. I'm sure nobody will be upset at having a spider loon thing crawling on their heads.
>>
>>98025047
Blessed by Da' Bad Moon, they be. Divine guidance!
>>
Finally got some more work on this guy. I think I'm finally happy with a scheme after trying like 3. Really just need to put in the rust and verdigris now.
Should I go full bronze on the shields, leave it black, or something else?
>>
File: IMG_20260509_182424.jpg (2.62 MB, 3060x2193)
2.62 MB JPG
For the anon who was wondering about the dipping, no edge film notable.
>>
I wasn't ready for a new thread. Can we go back to the other one for a bit?
>>
>craftsperg in the collage
Horrendous!
>>
>>98025232
just repost whatever it is.
>>
File: IMG_0681.jpg (4.06 MB, 5712x3695)
4.06 MB JPG
>>98025015
I’m finally done with my 1995 pts guard army I am so ready to paint anything else. Been about 10 weeks of nothing but guard and I’ve been rushing through kits the last 2 weeks
>>98025043
Nice, what game is this/are they all the same game
>>98025138
Yeah I remember these from last weeks threads, very sharp
>>
File: TSF-048.jpg (645 KB, 3196x2400)
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A little update to my torso swap halfling conversion/kitbash. I decided to turn him into an officer/general type. I think that the cape and crest look pretty epic. Just need to do some light sculpting work to finish up the cloak. The helmet crest and the way the cloak itself envelops him almost gives him an ancient greek or Roman vibe. Overall, pretty happy with it. I just gotta get the sculpting done, fill a bit of sprue goo in and clean up all the debris from the extensive chop job. Gonna re-scribe the helmet visor too. You can see I have done it on part of the visor in the front profile picture. Using a titanium scriber can be really helpful if you obscure a little bit of detail like that, it allows you to redraw the lines.

Scribers have a sort of hook shape to them that creates clean lines in the plastic, it sort of scoops up the excess that something like a hobby knife will leave behind. They're also very handy if the mini you are working on has shallow detail lines. You can scribe along the line gently and slowly and create a little canal that helps define stuff like armor layers and the like, and really helps with getting clean washes and color blocking.

The method I use is to slowly and gently scrape along with the scriber hook perpendicular to the line you're trying to scrape. The plastic will give way to the hardness of the titanium, and eventually it clears pretty quickly. Then I just take some tamiya superthin, and clear most of the brush off of it. You only need a very, very small amount. Touch that to the canal, it will clean out any minor defects and excess microplastic dust and leave you with a smooth finish. I usually do this as a final step to prepare the model for priming. Once that has dried and cured, you can just scrape off any excess with a fingernail or if you have high grit sandpaper suitable for plastic finishing you can also use that.

Have a good weekend bros
>>
File: TSF-049.jpg (528 KB, 1685x2008)
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This guy is 15 separate parts.

Head is 5 parts. The chook crest, the rear laurel crest, the headband, the helmet, and the visor

Torso is 5 parts, between the coat of arms crest on the cloak, the cloak itself, the torso and the 2 feet attached to it separately.

The arms are collectively 5 components, 3 in the right, 2 in the left.
>>
Working on a sci-fi board.
Anyone have tips for wiring led light terrain?
>>
>>98025266
No game, just a bunch of random prints and stuff I culled from aggregators online. At some point I might get to host TTRPG campaigns again and it would be nice to have stuff for the boards.
>>
>>98025401
Something i did back in 2018, those EL wires are awesome to line along the kerb of streets, thermocol for the road, cardboard for the footpath, I usually damage it according to which part of the town it is, slight wear and tear broken small plastic toys as trash along with ripped up tissue paper sprayed woth paint. Neon signs with small led displays, I once had a old as robot from Japan I got when I was like 1 back in 1990, that fucking 1 inch TV on its chest still works, used that as the news screen.
>>
>>98025138
Full bronze shield heavily weathered or chipping paint showing the bronze underneath. Could be a place to do some subtle pop colors.
>>
>>98023311
I'd like to know as well so I can look up tips and lessons
>>
>>98025269
>useful hobby tips in my hobby thread
>>
>>98025388
Know what, I've got a question. Have you used them to add new custom engravings or recesses yourself, and if how so how maneuverable is the scriber? Would I be able to get say a spiral with some care, or is more a straightine only deal? Might be a nice way to get some cholcisian symbols on some armor.
>>
>>98025476
>that fucking 1 inch TV on its chest still works, used that as the news screen.
That sounds baller. I was thinking about setting up some sort of tv.
>>
File: 02245.jpg (1.52 MB, 2199x1440)
1.52 MB JPG
Just a couple of touch ups, and finishing the base left.
I did the hammer before really thinking about the base, so the hue of the hammer reflection doesn't really make sense so I might do a bit of a filter to fix that.
I'm sorry that you didn't like the hair color Rin anon. We can agree to disagree some of the time.
>>
>>98024758
Does this painting style have a name? I got my first marines to paint and that is cool af but im painting salamanders so Im wondering how to find some tutorial to achieve a result similar to that but in green.
>>
>>98025612
it just looks like eavy metal style with some weathering
>>
>he doesn’t paint in subassembly
Shiggy diggy
>>
>>98025503
>Filename
https://www.artstation.com/artwork/6NgKGN
You're welcome. Protip; click the little blue arrow next to post numbers and use image search. Google images > exact matches and then just look for the one with the highest resolution and/or is on a site that's likely to be where the artist uploaded it.
>>
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>>98025561
The gauntlet is especially lovely, secondary reflections are very well placed, and the color variations in the shadows adds great depth. I really like the weathering on all of the leather, nice and subtle without diminishing the warmth. Hammer head is also lovely, the cracked face is excellently shaded and highlighted, and the reflection is also rich.
>>
>>98025481
If I go full bronze it'll be heavily patinaed with some verdigris and the raised areas will be more polished. I'm just unsure of, if I do a color, what to make it. Red to match the cloth feels obvious but that's a lot of red. I kind of want a different color so I can make the banner that same color and not just have everything be red.
>>
Just cut out a Devilfish from the sprue and got the sub assemblies ready to prime tomorrow. Wow that's an old kit. I think they're still using the same CAD file from when the Tau army first released.
>>
>>98025679
I was not a fan of that kit. It definitely feels really old, and there were some really bad gaps.
>>
>>98025678
>I kind of want a different color so I can make the banner that same color and not just have everything be red.
Maybe a blue grey, would compliment the black and red while not stealing the show. Could highlight with light blue or purple, and shade with dark blue or purple. Purple would work as well and would look good with the bronze. Bronze and ivory are really just brown, and brown is practically orange, which would compliment well.
>>
>>98025668
Ha, I think that's just the filename from when I downloaded it, but good looking out.
>>
>>98025718
That works since that's partially already in the black armor. It's a black-blue. Ya cold corpse blue will probably look nice.
>>
>>98025138
weren't those shields mainly made of wood? a solid bronze shield of that size would be too heavy to use.
>>
>>98025761
As I understand shields were almost always made of a wood core and the top layer would be leather, lacquer, or a thin layer of metal.
>>
>>98025768
keeping the shield black would make sense since it matches the paint on the armor
>>
>>98025761
He has no tendons in his arm so from a realism perspective a feather would be too heavy to use
>>
>>98025808
Hes a walking skellington, realism be gone.
>>
>>98025142
Thank you fellow Canadian glue dipper.

I'll dip my bases too from now on, that should greatly speed up the process.
>>
>>98025142
>>98025868
W-what the fuck are you guys talking about?
>>
>>98025869
Craftanon does his bases the same way I do.

Straight PVA glue -> Sand -> Diluted pva glue.

The only difference is that I use a brush on the last step and he just dips the bases.

I was worried that dipping the bases would live a glue skin/layer that would then peel the whole sand away. I guess that isn't a problem as his picture show.
>>
>>98025868
Sometimes I wipe the edges off with a paper towel, sometimes I just drip them back into the glue first, do something to get the excess off the edges, don't just leave it thick.
>>
>>98025855
Exactly
>>
File: 20260509_202632.jpg (312 KB, 853x1135)
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lil tiny update on the diorama. primed with a couple pieces of scatter.
>>
>>98025881
Yeah I figured that much.

Still a much faster process than what I do. Especially since I often base 50-70 miniatures at the time.
>>
>>98025015
Any basing idea for 2.5cm base?
>>
File: wizard.jpg (439 KB, 1106x1212)
439 KB JPG
What's the best wizard robe colour?
Should a wizard's hat match his robes?
>>
>>98026052
bathrobe with ducklings freehanded on
>>
>>98026050
anything. What are your guys supposed to be standing o n?
>>
>>98026052
Freehand stars, moons and suns over a rich red velvet
>>
>>98026060
>What are your guys supposed to be standing o n?
Cork?
>>
>>98026103
This but on a rich blue instead
>>
>>98026052
primer looks sandy strip it and start over
>>
>>98026121
What, on some kind of cork planet?
>>
>>98026052
Mickey from Fantasia.
>>
>>98026052
dollar store blue
>>
>>98026103
how do you paint velvet?
>>
>>98026196
Lots and lots of stippling to build the illusion of texture and get convincing blends.
>>
>>98025561
wow. very nice!
>>
>>98026196
I meant it more as a reference for the tone of red than trying to replicate the velvet texture. A colder more burgundy leaning red
>>
File: 20260510_024354.jpg (1.5 MB, 2880x2880)
1.5 MB JPG
I've never painted a space marine who isn't wearing his helmet before, I feel kind of dirty
>>
>>98026306
I don't care what anyone else thinks, the dildo bumps will never look cool
>>
>>98026306
might be the hangover but are you trying to say you just painted your first beakie
>>
>>98026313
They are ribbed for your anguish

>>98026315
Nah I mean the bare headed sargeant
>>
my tummy hurts and I'm tired
>>
>>98025142
Why dont you glue the sand on before priming?
>>
>>98025269
>The method I use is to slowly and gently scrape along with the scriber hook perpendicular to the line you're trying to scrape. The plastic will give way to the hardness of the titanium, and eventually it clears pretty quickly. Then I just take some tamiya superthin, and clear most of the brush off of it. You only need a very, very small amount. Touch that to the canal, it will clean out any minor defects and excess microplastic dust and leave you with a smooth finish. I usually do this as a final step to prepare the model for priming. Once that has dried and cured, you can just scrape off any excess with a fingernail or if you have high grit sandpaper suitable for plastic finishing you can also use that.
Ah shit, wish I'd seen this sooner. I just got done doing some scribing on a gunpla model and there was definitely a bit of residue in there I didn't get off.
>>
>>98025142
I'm trying to not fall for the bait and I'm failing. Acting like it's some massive time save to dip them in PVA versus just painting it on with a brush is just retarded. Trying to wipe it off the edges before drying would take just as long. I can see pools of glue where the bases are touching the plastic lid. You cannot tell me there isn't a lump of pooled glue on the base of the rim even if you somehow managed to hover them with no contact for the glue to pool towards.
>>
File: 4.jpg (408 KB, 4096x3072)
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Got two pieces of scatter terrain semi-done. Not entirely happy with the coverage of the brown on this one so I'm leaving it to dry overnight and coming at it fresh in the morning. It's refusing to get good coverage on the lip and I can't get a good consistency on the thinning; it's either too thin and watery or like godamn claggy glue.
>>
File: 6.jpg (422 KB, 4096x3072)
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>>98026691
A little more satisfied with this thing, though honestly it's the definition of braindead. A few coats of this 'copper' mirror paint but to me it looks a lot more like gold. Either way it was quick and easy to knock out of the backlog on my desk.
>>
File: werk_orig.gif (1.66 MB, 500x200)
1.66 MB GIF
>>98026052
>What's the best wizard robe colour?
Many.
>>
>>98025269
what kind of scriber do you use?
>>
>>98026306
what's with the comically thick legs? are this printed?
>>
File: file.png (2.36 MB, 1030x1536)
2.36 MB PNG
Current WIP
Did the base yesterday and today I will try my hand on the skelington with a NMM armor
>>
File: HH9NmGba0AAxbC4.jpg (533 KB, 2048x1152)
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working on my dwarfs
>>
>>98025269
That's good to know, also this >>98026757

>>98025612
Thanks, I don't know if there's a name for that, I just paint my own version of grimdork without desaturating and covering everything with enamels.

There's an anon ITT that paint Raptors with a similar approach and they look amazing. Probably really good inspo for green armour and I imagine he can give solid advice.
>>
>>98026523
Brushing it results in sand being knocked off, there is no lump but i'll leave it to you to try figuring out how that works.
I don't think you can do it btw, requires at least 65 iq.
>>
>>98026523
NTA but yeah, I just paint the section I want sanded then sprinkle on dried playground sand it it takes like 45 seconds a base. Dipping seems retarded but also looks like complete shit
>>
Threadly reminder to ignore craftsperg and his garbage. Ignore it even when he starts samefagging.
>>
>>98027173
>>98027190
but you just touch the dry basing sand and it instantly wicks away the diluted pva like a sponge so what would be the point of dipping them it will just make a mess and you will glue your bases to whatever you lay them on to dry
or have i been bamboozled
t. cereal bases anon
>>
>>98026691
Don't own any SMS myself but the redbrown seems to be some type of weathering product for a rust oxide effect so maybe there is some additive to help it pull into the crevices or something. That could be the reason you are having trouble with coverage? Most paints labeled with some type of rust in the name are just normal red/brown acrylics tho.
>>
File: IMG_20260510_072938.jpg (3.96 MB, 3360x3060)
3.96 MB JPG
>>98027190
>I don't do this so I have no idea how it works
>but let me tell you how it works anyway.
It looks the exact same, dumbass.
>>
>>98027200
Like you did right here, right?
>>
>>98027215
This does not look good anon. I don’t know what to tell you
>>
painting your PVA onto bases is even stupider than painting shadows onto 3D miniatures
>>
>>98027234
>>98027215
Let me rephrase, because I shouldn’t have been shitty, I use finer sand and it looks like you’re using pea gravel. I’m not a fan of the orange and I understand that you’d need something more hearty as an adhesive to keep that on your base. I just don’t like the orange, so it looks like it works for your purposes. Fair enough?
>>
>>98027209
I don’t use pea, I just use paint because I use fine playground sand that is dried. Wet paint, in my experience, holds fine playground sand just fine. Like I said whatever works for you
>>
>>98027274
*PVA not pea
>>
File: 1777748397868123.jpg (1.56 MB, 2440x1390)
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>>98027222
Cope, you're saying that because of who is posting not what is being posted, otherwise picrelated would have received all that bashing before the identity was revealed on this project.
You're all a bunch of petty childish haters with no life.
>>98027264
Fair enough, although why you would think that is the color it is staying is beyond me, I've already posted enough of the finished bases for this as you can see here.
>>
>>98027283
>I've already posted enough of the finished bases for this as you can see here.
Buddy I’m not the anti-you poster but do yourself a favor and stop trying to post like a tripfag without a trip. I don’t follow these threads close enough to spot anons based on bases and yes those bases you posted look much better to me
>>
>>98027295
You follow them close enough to have spotted yesterdays damn near 24 hours long bash of my stuff though right? and part of that included this exact picture being reposted near the end of the day to show anon asking about the dipping how my bases turned out.
>>
File: IMG_0686.jpg (68 KB, 528x500)
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>>98027314
Take my advice or not anon, I’m just hoping to avoid another 200 posts ITT based around you and the anon that hates you that you hate
>>
File: PXL_20260510_141412536.jpg (1.46 MB, 3072x4080)
1.46 MB JPG
>>
File: IMG_8807.jpg (535 KB, 2280x1420)
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My attempt at an ice effect for my frost blade
Does the effect look convincing?
How do you guys do frost and ice weapons
>>
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>>98025142
>no edge film notable
>>
>>98027430
Stop engaging the sperg. He shitted up two threads already.
>>
>>98027430
That is not film, that is a lack of paint on the edge of the transparent resin base, because any paint that got onto them at this stage is just overspill from priming the mini, see the above picture of the finished product.
Judging a WIP as if it were done is stupid, especially when you have a finished example right in front of you.
>>
>>98027424
Looks icy to me
>>
>>98027436
>He shitted up
Right of course, you are not responsible for the posts you make.
>>
>>98027424
cool
>>
File: IMG_8806.jpg (424 KB, 2356x1012)
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>>98027424
>>98027440
Here’s the other side
>>
File: 20260510_102116.jpg (449 KB, 1516x1664)
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Two more BFG ships done, the grand cruiser has been sitting around for years so it feels good to finally paint it.
>>
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>>98027454
very nice and good luck bfg backlog anon
i finished marine battle barge and started working on the chaos version
>>
>>98027486
Those are good prints. I don't actually like the spiky ships that lean into the cathedral details, I like the bumpy flat look.
>>
Anyone know where to find this tutorial or at least a similar tutorial for painting glow out of holes? There's a million for doing OSL glowing helmet lenses but I feel like there's a not insignificant difference painting light coming out of a hole.
>>
>>98027580
Take a picture of enclosed candle holders or jack o lanterns to see how light radiates out from a hollow holey object
Super bright in the hole with a super bright rim on the hole with a rapid dissipation of light on the surface next to the hole as the light can’t extend around corners
>>
File: stinky boys.jpg (897 KB, 1771x629)
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Definitely gonna have to redo the plasma pistol glow at some point but they're finally done
>>
File: repulsiveltr.jpg (355 KB, 1822x1155)
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>>98027454
Nice to see some BFG posting. I finished up a Repulsive not too long ago.
>>
File: BfSP.jpg (1.73 MB, 4032x1860)
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The lead adventure forum is turning 20 this year.
To celebrat, many members are painting something.

I decided to find all the unpainted BfSP dwarfs in my collection and paint them up.

I reasoned that both the forum and these models are turning 20 this summer so thematically they fit.

I based, primed and started basecoating all of them. But 50+ models really are a lot to squeeze.
I think I'll paint 5-10 to completion before moving to the next 5-10. Otherwise I'm really going to go crazy.

And this isn't even including the many many pony carts I want to eventually paint.
Wish me luck anons
>>
>>98027511
thank you and yes i share the sentiment that in many cases simpler looks much better
>>98027658
gorgeous base and i like what you did with the tail end detail
>>98027697
good luck anon i bought 3 night goblin halves of that box and one brand new
those pony carts finally have an actual function now with the old world rules
>>
>>98026762
Yeah, they're from this german dude who did a whole range of kopinsky marines
>>
>>98027743
Fummelfinger or Bolterjugend?
>>
Is there a good way to apply a dusty/dirty effect to models using only acrylic paint or is that something that you should really do with pigment powder? Just applying a brown wash to cloth looks like ass.
>>
>>98027697
Dont you think your bottle of blue craftpaint is limiting your creativity?
>>
>>98027774
>wash
>for dust
>not drybrush
I wonder why it isn't working, hmm...
>>
>>98027774
Drybrush a dust/dirt color on?
>>
>>98027769
That's the one
>>
>>98027774
Dry pigments and oils are a better fit for a dusty effect. I had some decent results with sponging acrylics too.
I'd definitely avoid acrylic washes for dust effects.
>>
>>98027779
Wtf are you on anon?

Also wouldn't that force me to increase my creativity?
>>
>>98027779
See>>>>>98027373
>>
>>98027774
very small amount of paint on your brybrush brush and do a rolling motion with it
>>
File: 20260510_121805.jpg (927 KB, 3351x1450)
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Since I have multiple of all these miniatures I decided to experiment by converting a couple of them, here visible in the very messy first stage of brushwork.
>>
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>>98027779
>>98027841
>>
>>98027779
His models look fine. Craft paints work fine. Only spergs worry about "the correct" tools. You may like paying $8 for a poorly designed bottle from a company that hates you. Not all of us are.
>>98027852
Discussion on said wips is valid. Not everything needs to be just how you like it. World doesn't revolve around you.
>>
>us
>>
>his
>>
>>98027970
>>98027973
Different paints, models, brushes and a much cleaner painting station.
Plus I see hobby paint there too, so take your meds.
>>
>>98027965
>his
>>
>>98027965
>World doesn’t revolve around you
>>
Her
>>
Its so tiresome
>>
alright then time for the daily brainteaser
how long it took you to start thinking about changing your paints from one company to another
was there some specific color that did not cover at all and you tried a different product or were you sold a completely new range by someone
or are you still loyal to the brand of your choice
>>
>>98028102
Is this a brainteaser or you are doing a marketing research? Because it sure as fuck sounds like the later.
>>
File: 1749102306358967.gif (817 KB, 240x240)
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>>98028110
>>
>>98028032
You shitpost here like, 20 hours every day, get a hobby.
>>
>>98028102
>about changing your paints from one company to another

i didn't. I just expanded my paint collection by other companies over the years.
There is never a reason to stick to one brand only
>>
File: 1778433590572.png (729 KB, 497x1024)
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i think he's ready
>>
What do people usually use to cut plasticard? Particularly long strips?
>>
>>98028233
ruler and knife
>>
>>98028233
Sharp hobby knife + metal ruler is the time tried method.
You can also get a dedicated cutter. DSPIAE (and other gunpla focused companies) makes various types.
>>
>>98028233
fabric cutter and metal ruler
>>
>>98028233
btw, you can also buy pre-cut long strips in all kinds of sizes.
>>
>>98028102
This is a non-issue.
Rarely does someone 'change their paints'
People just start buying new ones they need/want from a different company, not completely replace their current collection.
Absolutely retarded scenario.
>>
>>98028292
Literally gave all of my RMS paints to my friend when he got into the hobby and I switched to Vallejo / Army painter.
I did this exact thing. Fuck off.
>>
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>>98028233
This kind of tool, at least this kind of blade shape and metal ruler. With long pieces it is very easy to accidentally cut slightly off the angle, which at longer pieces will translate into even 1-2mm difference so it's good to use some angle bracket as well. Also start without pressing too much as it increase the risk of blade going off the line.
>>
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>>98027970
>>98027973
As was observed already, that's not my stuff.
My painting station embraces pure chaos.
>>
>as was observed already
>>
>>98028503
>Craftsperg is a gooner
Checks out
>>
>>98027920
I really like the helm, thats such a neat idea to use dragon heads as horns!
>>
>>98028503
Have you considered using reddit instead? I think it'd be a great fit for you with all the drama you're creating around yourself
>>
>>98028531
How am I responsible for your posts? Are you my child?
>>
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So I tried Vallejo game/model color, Ak 3gen, Scale75, Pro Acryl, AP fanatic and the new P3 and I still think think Citadel paints are the best for painting armies that look good on the table follow by P3 paints.

While the mini painting community do enjoy gaslighting themselves into thinking matte paints are the best (matte paint is literally graded as the lowest quality paint period by the coatings industry, the guys who make your paints), I personally prefer satin paints cause they’re categorically better according to paint science. To make a paint matte, you have to add a ton of fillers which have the (not) minor side effect of making all matte paints chalkier, less durable, harder to work with, have significantly less colour vibrancy and can’t even display some colours as intended. And cause they have to lower the amount of binder to make room for all the fillers, matte paints separate badly when thinned with water cause there’s not enough binder to hold the paint together (to be honest, even satin mini paint brands are guilty of skimping on binder too, just not to quite the same extent). Anyway, satin paints are smoother, more durable, easier to work with, can fully display vibrant pigments without dulling them down, and are generally better in every way.
>>
>>98025671
Hell yeah
>>
He is such a tryhard
>>
>>98028537
He's mad you're in his safe space.
>>
>>98028537
>>98028560
>least obvious samefag
>>
>>98028531
Yeah you /would/ love to be able to downvote the craft posts
>>
damn that reddit comment really triggered him lmao
>>
>>98028503
that coffee cup is going to live in my nightmares now, thanks.
>>
>>98028576
Everything triggers that subhuman retard. Just don't ignore it.
>>
>>98028585
>ignore it
fixed.
>>
>>98028581
Ha! My girlfriend hates it too.
>>
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For something rather different than usual but I want to hear your opinion on that matter as I am unable to decide myself. From asthetic side, which of these options for "tail" piece (or rather something to hold these thrusters) looks best?

Yes, I know there is a thread on /m/ but I trust your judgment. Also spoilered since its not a mini.
>>
>>98028597
I like C the most myself
>>
>>98028597
im thinking A because it looks like you will be attaching something into her back and that might cover most of the joint for whatever that is
>>
>>98028564
No, you're hated just that much.
This isn't your home. Maybe YOU should go to reddit.
>>
>98028542
youre trying too hard, amigo
>>
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>>98028624
oh yeah you're mad lmao
>>
>>98028638
Keep thinking it dude. At least the retard posts his models.
You've been responding to him in every thread for days. If you want him to stop. Just scroll past his posts.
>>
>his
>>
>his
>him
>>
>>98028615
Actually I might not add anything more on upper back. I was considering sub-arms but I'm afraid they would clutter too much.
>>
>>98028663
>>98028668
If you are right you're just saying that he can shitpost and paint and post models all day every day while all you can manage is to bitchpost.
>>
>he
>>
She
Her
>>
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Big smurf is based and done.
>>
>>98028723
looks like shit
>>
>>98028723
Why are you posting it again?
>>
>>98028729
Yeah, yours is much better.
>>
>>98028733
It wasn't done, now it is?
This general IS about posting projects as they progress.
>>
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I tried painting again after several years. Lets ignore the retarded print orientation which ended up fucking up the skin quality. I am guessing my worst problem is paint thickness? What else should I focus on? It doesn’t look THAT bad IRL as it does in the photo btw.
>>
>>98028782
It looks like some guy jizzed on her tits.
>>
>>98028795
yeah, that was me while painting, sorry about that
>>
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Finished up last bits on the Matriarch
>>
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>>98028835
>>
>>98028542
I don't understand why people worry so much about what kind of finish their paint is when you're just going to spray ultra matte clear over the whole thing anyway.
>>
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>>98028782
she looks like she was visited by nurgle
>>
>>98028503
Coffee cups are not cast iron skillets, they don't need to be seasoned. Your paint cup is cleaner than it.
>>
>your
>>
>>98028503
Absolutely subhuman. As expected.
>>
>>98028952
Yea, she got the resin support pox
>>
>>98028967
>coffee cups don't need to be seasoned
That's an opinion.
>>
>>98028944
Matte paint makes it easier to see details while you are painting.
>>
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Will correct the scratch on his helmet, the bright metal highlight should be below the black scratch. Otherwise it's varnishing left and painting the shield.
>>
>>98029093
Good work on the 5 o'clock shadow.
>>
the absolute state of the thread
>>
>>98029214
Kinda funny how one retard and a couple faggots milking him is enough to completely ruin a thread. I avoided using any filters here for years but I think it's finally time to change that.
>>
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Working on my Fire Raptor. Close to having the base colors down. After that, I'm gonna do an oil wash and a dot filter afterwards.
>>
>>98029233
>retard
That makes you one of the faggots though.
>>
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These are regrettably not the same color paints
>>98029258
That blue is sharp
>>98029093
Nice little monk/Knight you got there
>>98028840
Any shots of your squad so far?
>>
>>98029258
Why is the paint so thick?
>>
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>>98029304
very obvious in these spots btw
>>
>>98029202
>>98029302
Thanks, just a monk for Barons War Outremer.
>>
>>98029258
i like the metallic basecoat
everything is where it should be and im looking forward what it looks like after said washes
>>
>>98028233
Score the cut lines with a sharp blade and then snap the piece apart. It's what scale modelers and prop builders do for quick clean cuts.
>>
>>98029304
>>98029314
nta
that's not thick paint, paintlet-kun
>>
>>98029302
>These are regrettably not the same color paints
Im sorry were you under a rock when the new AP paints released?
Everyone talked about how many of them were way less saturated because of the white pigment they added to make them more opaque.
>>
>>98029401
>was I under a rock
I admittedly do not keep up with the latest mini paint news
>>
>>98029405
Now you know.
Admittedly, the new paint sets they've been releasing are in part to address that situation, and to bring back saturation to the range.
>>
>>98029405
https://youtu.be/LwZYPDVmbDE?t=556
>>
>>98029314
I think that's lazy surface prep not a problem with the paint. it looks nice and slick on the wings.
>>
>>98029416
Well the way you described it as more opaque with white is exactly the issue. It’s like 2 shades closer to salmon
>>
>>98029401
That's just every miniature painting line outside of a handful of pure pigments. Fuck they're even adding whites to contrast/speedpaint style paints now.
>>
>>98029584
>now
anon first wave of citadels contrasts had apothecary white
>>
>>98029595
I believe he meant they're adding white pigments to coloured contrasts to increase coverage

I always found it ironic that they add whites to increase coverage while white paints itself has terrible coverage
>>
Are the AK or Proacryl brush on matte varnishes any good? I'm finding that a lot of the time my paintjobs come out a bit more glossy than I want and the most "matte" thing I own currently to put over them is lahmian medium.
>>
>>98029619
They add titanium white since its a vibrant opaque white pigment, but its chalky as fuck. You can use zinc white which is much softer, blends, and mixes much better, but it isn't as vibrant and can yellow with age.
>>
>>98028240
>>98028254
>>98028255
>>98028263
>>98028323
Thanks fellas
>>
>>98029365
That sounds awesome and I will attempt it
>>
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The Necrons from my Indomitus box have been sitting in the pile of shame for 5 years now, so I've finally gotten around to them. Current progress.
>>
this close to buying pigments and mixing my own paints
>>
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>>98028503
And here i thought MY painting place looks bad
>>
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Took a while but it's done
>>
>>98028503
Wipe the dust off your lamp, anon.
>>
Hey anons, seeking a little help.
I suck ass at painting skin, I'm not even talking fancy skin I'm talking about basic ass two thin coats skin. All the skin tone paints I've used are utter shite. I'm trying to paint Romans. Can anyone point me towards a skintone paint that isn't horse shit to work with? They're all so thin and annoying.
>>
>>98029751
>romans
Try these
>>
>>98029751
Ratskin flesh, wash with reikland fleshshade, highlight with kislev flesh.
>>
>>98029751
Don't know if it helps, but my usual approach is a basecoat of Bugman's Glow, and a layer of Kislev Flesh over it. Or Wraithbone + Guilliman Flesh, if I want to mix it up.
>>
>>98029751
Can you post something so we can see what you're doing wrong?
>>
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>>98029751
i just noticed that i had accidentally deleted whole year worth of archived images
had a really cool tutorial on how to paint skin there
>>
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Identify the mini!
Or even the scale...what is that...15mm? 6?
>>
>>98029769
Romans, not Italians.
>>
>>98029751
>>98029791
This, we may be able to give some tips to make your current paints give better results.
>>
>>98029733
No, I haven't even used it in years.
>>98029715
It's not bad, it's well used.
>>
>>98029810
You're looking at em, asshole.
>>
I want to do a Martian-themed base, so I picked up some Martian Ironearth, but testing it out I realized how fragile these crackle paint flakes are.

What's the recommended way to seal it in, so that the paint doesn't just crumble away at the cracks?
>>
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>>98029810
>>98029855
Orks that think they’re custodes
>>
>>98029769
Might be too dark

>>98029773
>Ratskin flesh, wash with reikland fleshshade, highlight with kislev flesh.
Will investigate

>>98029778
>Bugman's Glow, and a layer of Kislev Flesh
I have these paints, so I'll try and report back

>>98029791
>>98029812
Don't have any pictures on hand but I'll experiment and get back to you, might be a couple of days though.

>>98029800
Yeesh, grim.
>>
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>>98028503
>what is this?
>>
>>98029855
Just the guys in Tyrol.
>>
>>98029700
Looking good, anon. Nice skellies.
>>
>>98028597
I kinda like B best, but would like it better on her back rather than her butt. May be because I like jetpacks.
>>98028723
Looks good to me.
>>98028952
>>98028980
Unfortunate.
>>98029718
Clean and colorful, nice.
>>
>>98029903
>Just the guys in Tyrol.
Time flies doesn't seem a minute
Since the Tyrolean spa had the chess boys in it
>>
>>98029855
I love the way the jew's smile fades from his face in that scene.
>>
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>>98027629
I like how colorful they are, nice work!
>>
>>98029718
based grumpy dino
>>
>>98028782
Thin your paints, but also be more mindful with using washes. You let your wash pool way too hard in the recesses making it look like a glossy liquid. And it in other areas it just looks like coffee stains. Really she just looks like she had coffee spilled all over her. Try being way more sparing with it. Less is more.

Also I can see a lot of hairs stuck in the paint. Clean/dust your workspace and your tools more thoroughly.
>>
>>98028835
>>98028840
I really like what you're going for here, anon. It's a great looking style, and I want to say you nailed it perfectly and I have no notes, except... the metallics are distracting. This art style is begging for NMMs. Regular metallic paint just doesn't gel with it.
>>
How do I prevent hair/dust getting in my paint/models?
>>
>>98030016
Clean your room.
>>
>>98030016
>dust/vacuum before you paint
>ventilation that leads away from you, like a fan or something
I have some long haired cats so I have an air purifier that runs behind me when I paint. It creates airflow that goes away from me, so if some stray cat hair is in the air it won't be drawn towards me and my wet model like a god damned magnet lol.
>>
>>98030016
Also some kind of storage container or covering over your models between sessions. Some people like saranwrap on cardboard boxes, I have a plastic tote that my models go in while I'm working on them. Its tall enough that most models can stay on their painting handles standing up inside of it, so I can just grab a model and get to it. I crack the lid after painting for some airflow to help things dry evenly.
>>
>>98029718
Well this is just excellent
>>
>>98030016
I like using those large foundation makeup brushes as a sort of duster before painting.
>>
why is it so common for people to try to paint white people by doing pale skin highlight over a dark base? it always comes out looking like brown people wearing skeleton makeup.
>>
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>>98030050
I like Plano tackle boxes
>>
>>98028503
>im a sad faggot please don’t bully me
Jesus Christ dude
>>
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progress on the diorama/display shelf being made but still tons to do.
>>
>>98028503
honestly about what I expected from a sperg of your caliber
>>
>>98030183
>in the name of my rabbi!
Yikes.
>>
>>98030202
It's better than your painting station.
>>
>>98030213
whatever helps you cope
>>
>>98030016
I use my airbrush (failing that, those air dust cans for cleaning computers) to get rid of the dust before every painting.

>>98029718
Awesome stuff, anon.
>>
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Trying to learn how to use an airbrush for more than just priming. Primed black, then airbrushed a layer of magenta. Let dry, then did a zenithal with a layer of an ivory/off white. Next, I'll do a dark olive green all over the skin.
>>
Should I buy a magnifying glass light?
>>
>>98030491
Probably not, the magnifiers on them typically aren't very useful for painting on account of the short focal length not leaving room for the tail ends of brushes.
>>
>>98030491
You'd be better off getting a head mounts one if anything
>>
Is there a good rule of thumb for determining where and what direction to put armor scratches? I'm pretty new to weathering/damaging my models and when I try to palce scratches they just look kinda random and not in a good way.
>>
>>98030491
I got one and I end up using it a lot for barrel-drilling and occasionally for painting. Make of that what you will
>>
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>>98030491
I have one of those and this head mounted magnifier. I almost never use the magnifier on the lamp because it was so unwieldy, even before I got the wearable one. I wear the wearable one every single time I paint, though. Don't buy the ones that look like jewelers loupes, get one that looks like pic rel.
>>
>>98030491
I don't like the head mounts, they're tiresome. I prefer one on a stand. Yes, sometimes you gotta fiddle with the angle so the butt of your brush doesn't hit it, but it's not a huge problem and the magnification is extremely helpful for detailed painting.
>>
>>98030491
no they suck ass. get a regular light and magnifying goggles
>>
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>>98029823
No it’s bad.
>>98028503
Your shit is piled on top of other shit with 1/8 full duplicates of the same supply piled on top of its kind. It’s a junk drawer minus the drawer. I guarantee you waste time searching for specific paints and tools amongst the detritus and garbage. It’s not efficient, it doesn’t make you quirky, it’s just a slop set up.
>inb4
>post your models
>post your set up
I have.
But I won’t in this post or give any hint of anything I can be associated with because I’m don’t post here to be a thing. I don’t want to be the guy who argues with you, I don’t want to be a “guy” on /WIP/ threads. That’s what reddits for, and I assume you’re already permanent banned because you got too butthurt then when they downvoted your shit craft advice and you argued yourself off the site. So if this is the last place you can post, stop tripfagging by other means or just buy the past so we can filter you.
>>
>>98030597
I was looking at this actually, but I have a rather large head and most glasses and goggles don’t fit comfortably on me. The arc they make is too narrow for my face.

I’m not sure if an improper fit would mess with the focal length or something.
It looks like these sit on top of your forehead though. May just order it and give it a try.
>>
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>>98028503
Legendary /tg/ moment desu.
>>
>>98030543
use your imagination. if your guy was being attacked where would he likely be hit? a cutting swing would come from overhead so it would probably be on the top part of the armor, while a stabbing attack might be more towards the middle. if your guy has a shield you would probably expect the shield to be more beat up than the armor, especially on the side the shield is on. if you're painting a skaven put all of the damage on his back.
>>
>>98030668
Why are you so upset about this other anon? Why can't you just ignore his post?... You're doing exactly what you protest to hate...
>>
>>98030668
I don't spend any time looking for things, everything is where I left it.
>>
>>98030481
If it's not from the camera then it's spraying a little grainy, you could turn your PSI down so the paint isn't so dry when it hits the mini.
At lower PSI the paint flows more like normal paint so you have to hit it with constant air but short bursts of paint.
These are what I learned airbrush on and they're pretty good.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BJcgf31v5RU
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VBdJ31sr-pk
>>
You guys are so mean to craftsperg. What'd he ever do to you?
>>
>>98030699
No it's very important that anyone using craft paints be endlessly ridiculed for everything they do, any amount of ruined threads is worth it, even if it accomplishes nothing.
>>
>>98030752
He opened my eyes to the folly of buying $5 bottles of paint, but the devil chose to do so only after I had purchased the entire Vallejo, Citadel, and Army Painter ranges. Curse him.
>>
>>98030764
Okay. As long as you're having fun I guess...
>>
>>98030695
>f you're painting a skaven put all of the damage on his back.
KEK
>>
>>98030764
>>98030774
I'm not craftsperg. Craft paints have their uses, there's a trick I saw first in model railroads where they can be airbrushed on as a color primer. I do it and I like it better than AP airbrush primer.
Using craft paints for general painting isn't as good but it can be done. There are some that aren't chalky, the chalky ones don't take well to washes so be careful.
Craftsperg is a lolcow more for behavioral reasons, we have plenty of people here who use unorthodox supplies.
>>
Can anyone vouch for the quality of brush on proacryl matte varnish? Does it need to be thinned when used or is it good out of the bottle?
>>
>>98030764
That anon didn’t say anything about craft paint, he said the set up is bad and that the anon is posting his set up to tripfag.
>>
>>98030720
Thanks Anon, I'll watch the videos. It definitely is coming out a bit grainy
>>
>>98030843
I always think my varnish, you can get white streaks if you don’t
>>
>>98030846
you don't read so well
>>
>>98030691
That's the same one I have. They might be uncomfortable if your head is truly massive, but you are able to move the angle/position/distance of the lenses. The arms sit on your ears and the black thing sits on your nose, there's no other contact points
>>
>>98030857
You don’t fit in here
>>
>>98030869
You don't even post models, so that means little
>>
>>98030885
No one’s gonna post their models while arguing with you, desperate to not be anonymous anon. You’re a petty thread ruining samefagging faggot and no one wants to post their models and listen to bad faith criticism from a thread ruining obvious shit in. You’re a middling painter, which is fine, but you hold yourself up as someone who can speak to the craft, which you can’t, because you’re the most phoned in average painter on the internet. The dunning Kruger of mini painters, vastly overestimating your skill and professing your intelligence when in reality you slop shit together, buy cheap paint and produce meh results which don’t hold up within 3 feet.
>>
>>98030931
>No one’s gonna post their models while arguing with you
Afraid of a little criticism? Surely any from me would be meaningless and just make me look pathetic.
Must be afraid that your inability to shut the fuck up and need to shit on the thread will make everyone else hate on you.
You can talk shit, but you can't take it.
And it doesn't matter how many anons tell you to shut the fuck up you'll just cry "samefag!" and pretend you're the voice of the thread and the masses are cheering you on.
>>
>>98030931
His minis look perfectly fine (on the higher end of mini painters even) and are probably better than anything you can put out. The simple fact is that overpaying for paint with a name brand slapped on is stupid and you won’t see a difference from regular craft paints. If this weren’t true you would post models instead of ruining another thread.
>>
>>98031036
I wouldnt go that far, I paint quickly to a playable standard that makes me happy.
>>
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Made some progress on my demons, too busy to get them done tonight as i'd hoped.
>>
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>>98031122
>>
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>>98031125
>>
Grim.
>>
>>98031122
>>98031125
>>98031130
no offense but your layering and brush control needs a lot of work
>>
>>98031036
the lack of self awareness is absolutely hilarious, also
>his
>>
>>98030004
Valid yeah, I was thinking the same thing last night. If I'm honest I've just never committed to doing NMM. These were initially gonna be slapchop tier quick paintjobs as a change of pace from my normal Skaven but the soft details of the 3D scan and print meant I ended up going down blacklining + highlighting rabbithole to try make them look less melted. Maybe next project I finally bite the bullet and ditch the glitter paints.
>>
>>98031122
Honestly, I would stop the attempt to highlight all the flesh areas. Either do proper wetblending, or use contrast over zenithal. Black, with a brown zenithal followed by red contrast paint would give some good results for your red demon skin.
And surely the models are more on the meh side of things, but a dark red followed by those big spots of a lighter red where the model has some raised areas simply does not look very good
>>
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>>98027214
It might be, but it's had good coverage on other things previously. Might be the specific geometry of the lip coming into play. I went back to it and touched it up, happier with how it looks now. Leaving it to dry right now, instead working on a couple of printed kitbashes.

Got this squig and decided to turn it into a humanoid monster, maybe an aberrant kind of ghoul or some other homunculus. Need to touch up some parts on it still, have to fill in the leg I cut to adjust the stance on as well as fill in some of the visible print lines with sprue goo as a filler.
>>
>>98028503
I take solace in knowing that I am not the lowest of the low, but feel uneasy with the revelation that there is further to fall.
>>
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>>98031480
Useful part of taking these photos and looking at them later with fresh eyes is spotting things I need to touch up, too. The teeth could use a round of filler also I think.
>>
>>98031122
Craft paint aside, I would do a glaze to help with the lack of layering.
I would also do another round of clean up, there's some steel overlap
>>
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>>98031497
Also printed off this downscaled version of a bigger boy. Pretty happy with how it came out, though as is visible I need to fill in the footprint on it's rear neck and texture it. Also considering whether I want to keep the metal bits strapped onto the arms and tail or cut them off and blend them to look like it's unadorned.
>>
>>98031480
>>98031497
Totes an imp from doom. Gotta make it pink.
>>
>>98029304
>>98029314
It's not paint, it's just resin being resin. There's only so much patience I had for prepping this. I spent like a week on just assembling it and making sure everything goes straight.

There are some spots that are just hard to sand properly, and this was one of them.
>>
>>98030931
good summary of why I've chimed in on sperg hate. idgaf what he does to his own miniatures. it's all this
>>
>>98030197
Damn thats really good
>>
Is Stahly tool accurate?
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>>98031529
The scale is a little bit too large to be fitting for that. To illustrate I've had some assistants attempt some impromptu dentistry.
>>
gonna buy sum paints
the store has ak, ap, citadel, scale75, ttc, and vallejo

any reccs, some colours i should ABSOLUTELY have?
>>
>>98031642
I like AK wine red.
>>
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Sent it away today

Don't think I'm cut out for commission painting, there's more I'd like to do on it but I had a deadline and sending away a model absolutely sucks
>>
>>98031655
nice stuff
how much time does it take to do an airbrushed vehicle with all the stencils and masking?
>>
>>98031698
Maybe 20-30 hours on this guy? I'm a slow painter who keeps repainting portions though, and there's a lot of brushwork on it as well. Around 8 hours spent with the airbrush maybe? But 80/20 rule ABSOLUTELY applies, you could easily get a similar enough, tabletop-ready result in an afternoon. The stencil part is very easy.
>>
>>98031642
AP, Jungle Green.
My favorite green from the line. Bright and what I use for my Orks skin.
>>
>>98031642
AK Tenebrous Grey, Dirty Red, Burnt Umber, Ice Yellow
S75 Mojave White, Navy Blue, Basic Flesh

There are some pots that are almost always on my table
>>
>>98031655
Shi'nji, get in the grav tank!
>>
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Pivoted back to the scatter terrain. Decided to double-down on the gold pillars looking weird by making the core 'rusted', despite it appearing to be gold. Also opted to leave the ground fairly untouched with no tufts to emphasize it being weird. Leaving it to dry overnight so the rust effect fully blooms, should end up looking even more noticeable by the morning along with the few dabs I left on the ground as well.
>>
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>>98031853
Also did a pre-final pass on this plant thing. Tufts, moss effect on a patch of the ground. I'll leave it until the morning and then decide if I wanna do anything else to it; I'm considering doing some weird shit with the purple 'fruit' mass. Maybe re-highlight the nodules with white, hit with a very light purple so it looks like it's glowing. Also maybe clearcoat it and then hit it with a purple shade so it looks like it has a transparent skin. Will give it another look tomorrow though.
>>
Why don't people use pva glue for miniatures?
>>
>>98031781
And the mantle is Asuka and Rei colored.
>>
>>98031861
Because it's not strong enough for small contact surfaces. It's used for basing though.
>>
>>98031863
>>98031781
I wonder if the client will get the reference
>>
Is Crackle nail polish the same thing as Citadel technical paints?
>>
>>98031907
I assume that's still a medium. Vallejo and other brands make something of the sort for water-based acrylics, the idea is to sandwich it between layers.
>>
>>98031655
Not usually a fan of this style, but it looks very cool anon
>>
>>98031655
There's ALWAYS more that can be done on a model, anon. That's the useful part about having a deadline, is that it forces you to be able to call a model "finished" at a certain point, where it otherwise might never be.

The paint job looks sick, you nailed the look you seem to have been going for. You ought to be proud of yourself!
>>
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Which colour is the closest to this one, out of the bottle?
>>
>>98032202
Army painter pure red
>>
>>98032202
AK Ruby
>>
>>98032202
Mecha SZ red maybe?
>>
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>>98032202
Some of these?
>>
>>98032202
AP Fanatic: Raging Rose
I dont think theres a closer match
>>
>>98032206
jej
>>
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>>98032225
>filename
>>
>>98029914
>>98030107
>>98030262
Appreciated anons, it was a really enjoyable project
>>
>>98030481
dem print lines... any chance of a share?
>>
How do I get clean details in xps foam without a hot wire cutter? Is that even possible? It really looks unclean when I get the foam pieces out .
>>
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I need ideas for the base of my daemonprince/bloodthirster. I want to have him swooping into something smashing it with his foot. What would look cool?
Having fun pinning with electric drill and 2mm brass rod + baking soda cement. My 10 yr old self could only use hot glue gun and superglue. This model was frustrating back then ;)
>>
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>>98032368
old but still checks out
>>
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quick doodle for my titan's head
>>
>>98032368
Give him a rad ass skateboard
>>
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Ok, it's done, otherwise I'll spend the next 2 months re-touching stuff.

This took WAY too much time, I need to practice to paint slightly faster...
>>
>>98030720
>but short bursts of paint.
i never understood this, what does it accomplish, if a burst flow well surely a continuous stream will too, as long as you move fast enough you should be fine
>>
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>>98032559
>>98032378
Damn both of these are sick ideas, lol
d imagining him popping a massive daemonic ollie...
I'm thinking of sculpting a base in blender where he's landing on an enemy instagibbing him. Anyone have some gory diorama / basing inspo saved?
He's now chilling happily sitting on a ledge.
>>
>>98029086
What the fuck ara you talking about.

Matte paint suck for painting armies and for the skill level of 95% of painters. It's cheaper to make by the companies that try to convince consoomers that matte is better. It is not. Most of you are not aplying 10 layers and mixes and blendings and glazing for each model.

Satin paint is superior. Citadel and P3 are the top tier paints. Fuck pro acryl/AP/Vallejo/AK.
>>
>>98032714
trying too hard
>>
>>98032714
Anon, this general is already cursed with one shitposting subhuman, there's no need to add more garbage.
>>
>>98032714
post minis
>>
>>98032714
just stop posting
just fucking stop
shut the fuck up go back to /lgbt/ and shut the fuck up
>>
>>98032733
This kills the shitposter
>>
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I'm just sad at this point honestly, what drives these fags to shit up one of the last decent generals on this board? Is it like genuine mental illness or are some people just such insufferable assholes? I don't get it
>>
>>98032881
It's usually a bit of both. Like look at craftsperg's workplace, that shit is telling. And he posts it himself, completely oblivious to what's wrong. Regrettably, 4chong format allows for mentally ill retards like that to flourish, especially since people like that usually get banned fast from everywhere else.
People need to stop taking the bait, whether it's from a /40kg/ shitposter or a genuinely retarded or mentally ill person. He will samefag the shit out of his own stuff, he will lash out, but if you ignore it for long enough, he will leave.
>>
>>98032881
In my 15 years on the board I’ve seen it happen in every general on every board I frequent. Some retard will post something stupid, have a meltdown then as a last result post identifying info and leverage that into becoming a board celebrity. It can fuck a general, or an entire board (see /pw/ and Robert)
>>
>>98032881
Must be a slow day on /40kg/
>>
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Progress on my white dragon with that sexy sexy ice base. Going for a palate that is less "white" more "icey" in general. Kicking myself rn for not having the absolute lightest blue shades on hand from AP atm, got to order some in for the spines and wing details.
>>
>>98032989
*15 years on the site, not board but you get my meaning
>>
>>98031853
This looks sexy as hell Anon, ngl. Also the base is making me hungry for a brownie
>>
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>39 EUR for 5 freaking synthetic brushes
>>
>>98033037
>unironically going on a sloptubers website
these brushes are the least of your problems, you fucking cretin
>>
>>98033037
but it has Squidmar on the name, anon, that makes em really freaking exclusive and good
>>
>>98033037
tbf I paid that much for 2 GODHAND synthetic brushes. GODHAND are the cream of the crop for mini model work tho in the synthetic sphere, these just look like generic brushes being white labeled.
>>
>>98033047
Well, i just want to see the "ultimate synthetic brush"
>>
>>98033054
How are Godhand's synthetics anyway?
>>
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While we're talking brushes, W&N Series 7 are the absolute best ones, right?
>>
>>98031655
Very nice.
>>
>>98033060
I adore the 4 brushes I dropped $100~ on. Seriously. They are by far and away the best brushes I own when it comes to getting in minute details and straight lines. They don't hold paint for shit though, so if you are detailing something that needs a lot of paint, you will be going back and forth. The ultrafine shortgrip yellow-handle brushes they have on offer are a godsend (muh pun) for painting eyes and bloodveins.
>>
>>98033075
Nice, thanks. How they compare to natural brushes?
>>
>>98033067
I find that Russian kolinsky Nevskaya and Roubloff are about the same quality as W&N, but much cheaper and better quality control. There are Tamiya kolinsky, chinesium Nightwork and Taiwan Madworks too
>>
>>98033067
I would argue that Rosemary & Co Series 33 are easily comparable, but cheaper.
>>
>>98031642
Scale75 indian shadow is a great color for leather or skin. Dark reddish color with a little hint of purple, highlights well with both saturated or desaturated colors.
>>
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>>98033054
>godhand
All I can think about is the
>youtuber excited to play his favorite game for the first time
meme
Probably could work for brushes too, lord knows there are parrots in the mini painting world
>>
>>98033090
My kolinsky brushes hold paint much better but also have more natural fraying and splitting which I have to keep mitigating every few times I dip in the paint. I use Rosemary naturals because they're on hand locally and frankly I do not want to shill out upwards of $60 on a brush which has a set lifespan and will be triply outlasted by even low cost synthetic brushes.
Generally I use large synthetics for base coating and washes, my GODHAND brushes for actual detailing and bits that are more forward facing to the immediate observer, then my kolinsky brushes are used for everything else in between.
>>
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>>98031781
You don't tell Strongji what to do.
>>
>>98033117
Idk if this is good advice but I use coconut oil every time I wash my brushes and they keep their integrity about 2 or 3 times the amount they used to
>>
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>>98033116
I bought the brushes over Tomiya specifically because I love this game to death and play through it on DIE every few years. Trufax.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sD8AMgHehjw
>>
>>98033117
I'm also using Rosemary & Co (Series 33) and I quite like them for detail work. I'm on years-long quest on finding synthetics that behave similarly to these, so that I can replace the natural brushes. The closest I get are, again, Rosemary & Co Red Dots. They are quite nice, even for detail work, but they die so fucking fast, even with good care.
>>
>>98032569
Nah he's a centerpiece model, he's earned the time. Looks good and he looks happy.
>>
>>98033141
I believe you anon, I’m just waiting for someone to have had never used them to talk about their quality
>>
>>98033094
Oh that's interesting, I didn't know about these Russian ones.
>>98033099
Rosemary is what I've been using for a while but an anon here said W&N are supposedely better so I thought I'd get one to see if the difference is noticeable
>>
>page 8 and still less than 100 pictures in thread

I wish I could contribute but right now doing non-tg work (30 Minutes Sisters custom) and despite not scratchbuilding this time, I still cannot force myself to do anything at all. I honestly don't understand what is happening, nothing seems interesting or pleasant anymore.
>>
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>>98033185
Smoke a joint or get a SAD light. You're gonna make it, Anon! EVERYTHING IS GONNA BE OKAAAAAAAAY! EVERYTHING IS GONNA BE OKAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAY!
>>
>>98033185
The sperging ceased, and the debate is back at the topic. Be chill, anon.
>>
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>>98033110
Help if I included the color.
>>
Everyone talks about W&Na, Rosemary and such while all I have at shops are Kolibri and daVinci, sometimes Lineo, with very few and stupidly expensive W&Na ones. And nobody talks about those.
>>
>>98033067
Any of the following according to ease of procurement:
- Rosemary&Co
- Raphael 8404 or 8402
- Artis Opus Series S

W&N quality went down for me, last 2 I've bought were abysmal

Also, fuck synthetic: a Nylon brush should cost 20 cent to 1 euro/dollar.
>>
>spend all day at work thinking about my project
>plan every step and detail in my head
>finally get home and sit down to paint
>it looks like shit
>>
are davinci brushes good?



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