[a / b / c / d / e / f / g / gif / h / hr / k / m / o / p / s / t / u / v / vg / vm / vmg / vr / vrpg / vst / w / wg] [i / ic] [r9k / s4s / vip] [cm / hm / lgbt / y] [3 / aco / adv / an / bant / biz / cgl / ck / co / diy / fa / fit / gd / hc / his / int / jp / lit / mlp / mu / n / news / out / po / pol / pw / qst / sci / soc / sp / tg / toy / trv / tv / vp / vt / wsg / wsr / x / xs] [Settings] [Search] [Mobile] [Home]
Board
Settings Mobile Home
/tg/ - Traditional Games

Name
Spoiler?[]
Options
Comment
Verification
4chan Pass users can bypass this verification. [Learn More] [Login]
File[]
  • Please read the Rules and FAQ before posting.
  • Roll dice with "dice+numberdfaces" in the options field (without quotes).

08/21/20New boards added: /vrpg/, /vmg/, /vst/ and /vm/
05/04/17New trial board added: /bant/ - International/Random
10/04/16New board for 4chan Pass users: /vip/ - Very Important Posts
[Hide] [Show All]


Janitor applications are now open. Apply here!


[Advertise on 4chan]


Work in Progress, Hump Day Edition

>Full-on /WIP/ OP Links Pastebin
https://pastebin.com/BE42AEcD

>WIP Tutorial Images Mega
https://mega.nz/#F!TvQFCaLb!w8WZKCcOsTRasxrI0JWezw

>Saint Duncan's "Six Things I Wish I Knew When I Started Painting"
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ufP8ka3KGno

>Saint Duncan also explains thinning your paints
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wxWgsqSf74s

>Paint thinning 102
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sBDVPoNXyVI

>4 EASY Chipping Tricks For Beginners
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ku4comhKHJM

>Decal Like a Pro
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SYKLiEW7p9c

>How to Edge Highlight
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KoRbYuAfbEk

>How to use contrast style paints
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IhholrozptI

>How to Paint with Tremors
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oqp76vAJu9g

>Airbrush Priming and Thinning
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jkntrSBvXxE
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IGjBQzoukFg
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=00JVUxABe44
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AEqT_R41JX8

>Guess what day it is!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7LtjzQaFZ3k

>Who's Johnny, she'd say, and smile in her special way
https://1d6chan.miraheze.org/wiki/Johnny

>Previous Threads:
>>98066686
>>98053942
>>98043991
>>
Hi Anons.
I hate my life, but at least I have painting.
Which I also hate, to be clear, but at least it's something to do that I'm okay at.
>>
>>98079010
well next time at least post a mini with your cringe blogpost
>>
>>98079016
no
>>
File: collage.jpg (563 KB, 3280x2460)
563 KB JPG
Repostan my disco lord. What do you think lads?
>>
>>98079022
It's excellent, anon. Crisp as fuck.
>>
>>98079022
super clean, great work
>>
>>98079022
>What do you think lads?
It's absolutely gorgeous. I would dread facing one of those in a game, but it would be cool to be on the same table as such a nicely painted model. Would be like the time Joe Orteza's Black Templars handed my ass to me at the Dallas GT all those years ago.
>>
>be me
>'wtf no mini of mine in the OP???'
>remember I havent painted in a week

Worst of all is actually on holidays and Im doing nothing but house chores and stuff I've been postponing
>>
>>98079096
Yeah that happened to me I think 2 threads ago. It did kind of prompt me to do something to get at least some progress in the next thread, so I guess that's a positive of the collage.
>>
>>98079022
It's beautiful, great work
>>
Finally wrapped up my first Ork Warbiker. After a year of doing super crisp Space Marines, it feels nice (but weird) to go back to Orks with all these new skills. I could’ve waited to get proper shots within the lightbox, but I finished everything at 12:30AM and got lazy.

>>98079022

Gorgeous, sharp work. I always appreciate seeing vibrancy in paint jobs.
>>
File: IMG_0809.jpg (3.5 MB, 5712x3378)
3.5 MB JPG
>>98079022
Looks great
>>
File: bikcrop1.png (1.88 MB, 1375x1000)
1.88 MB PNG
>>98079247
I was just painting that same bike, nice job.
>>
talk me out of starting a baneblade army
>>
File: 1770337982498883.jpg (1.42 MB, 1780x1270)
1.42 MB JPG
After two months of health problems I'm actually able to do something. Started with some bases.
>>
>>98079022
dead wolf is the best part.
>>
>>98079335
No
>>
>>98079335
You would be painting multiple of the same model just to increase the probability your opponent thinks you're a dick.
>>
>>98079349
why are baneblades dickish
>>
I don't get the sperging about playing against tanks and knights. I love tanks and knights.

>t. fire dragon enjoyer
>>
>>98079374
one forge world lord of war in army is bad enough
you are just asking to be that guy
>>
I bought the Black Templar combat patrol, so naturally I got a can of Chaos Black to prime them with. But they have white pauldrons. Should I do them separate with a few thin layers of white paint as the undercoat, or is it better to just spray them black too and paint the white overtop?

I've also got a bunch of Orks coming soon, and I'm going to do them as Evil Sunz. So if it would help, I could also grab a white or grey primer can.
>>
>>98079411
Ok but why are baneblades dickish
>>
>>98079247

Shit, I'm about to paint that exact model next. Any advice?
>>
>>98079431
Use gray for your undercoat
>>
>>98079431
Based choice
Ideally for ease and speed purposes you'd keep the pauldrons separate and prime them with a white or a light grey primer.

That said it's not impossible to paint white over black, especially since you can get by with a cream colour. Just layering brown, beige then some offwhite should do the trick over black and they layering (or drybrushing if you're really lazy) will also give you some cool volumetric depth rather than some uniform white surface unless that's what you're after
>>
>>98079439

A few things:

• You'll find that when putting this miniature together, the pieces feel very flimsy at times. It's a lot of tiny elements connecting major parts together.

• Do the two side guns as sub-assembly because you simply can't access the inside of the bike when painting if they're already attached. I placed the two guns upside down on a wooden block and primed/painted them on that. If you use just a tiny dot of super glue, you can easily snap it back off once done, sand the edge and then attach back onto the bike.

• It looks weird, but you'll need to recline the Ork's torso back slightly in order to fit their giant head behind the handle bar. I recommend doing some dry-fittings before gluing anything together.

• Finally, the way the hands attach to the handles are *horrible.* You need to cut the handles at a certain section in order to then fit the mold of the hand + handle onto it. It's very obnoxious and I wound up in a discussion on this kit just the other day where we were all commiserating on this. I strongly encourage you to do measurements before cutting and maybe having some Milliput on hand to fix anything. This is probably the biggest sign of how old this kit is.

Outside of that, for being nearly 20 years-old this kit still stands out and has a ridiculous amount of customization with it. It's just very time-consuming to do!
>>
>>98079431
unless you have something very specific in mind it's better to just stick to gray primer. black primer is a retarded cult.
>>
File: IMG_3466.png (344 KB, 480x360)
344 KB PNG
Anyone have any air brush recommendations? I’m looking for something cheap, if possible. US if that matters.
>>
>>98079640

Glad I asked, that is definitely more fiddly than the kits I've done before. Thanks for the tips.
>>
>>98079650
>US
Badger.
>cheap airbrush
Not a great idea.
>>
File: IMG_20260518_043405.jpg (149 KB, 1095x1588)
149 KB JPG
I'm just reposting the clown because I like how it's turning out.
Honk honk.
>>
>>98079431
>>98079598
I forgot to mention that, pauldrons aside, you're going to have to paint your tabards off white as well (unless you want to paint them differently, of course that's up to you), so you'll still have to paint something bright over black even if you prime and paint the shoulders separately
>>
>>98079673
I LOVE CLUSSY
>>
>>98079673
but you didnt change anything
>>
>>98079843
>I'm just reposting the clown
>>
File: voxterego-los-simpsons.gif (7.27 MB, 634x640)
7.27 MB GIF
>>98079843
>>
File: gunwight 3.png (166 KB, 277x372)
166 KB PNG
Brightened up the uniform bits in preparation to shade them back down in a slightly different tone, like a dark grey-purple maybe. I can't say I hate the way this looks right now though, very starship troopers
>>
File: IMG_2335.jpg (735 KB, 1794x2092)
735 KB JPG
Work on Huron continues.

>>98079673
This is so good
>>
Should I buy individual paints as needed, or buy a set? I have the vallejo medieval set but need more colors now. Should I buy a basic color set? Also is there a difference between model color and game color
>>
>>98079673
Cool off duty harlequin
>>
>>98080021
>Download stahly's swatch from OP mega.
>Pick paints you'll need for your next project.
>Buy these paints.
>If they are mostly in some set (both Vallejo and AK make pretty sensible sets), buy the set.
>???
>Profit
>>
File: IMG_4550.jpg (360 KB, 1485x1763)
360 KB JPG
First time using an airbrush holy shit it makes things so much easier

Geting a slight grainy texture though does anyone know why
>>
>>98080195
dust on the model?
>>
>>98080195
not thinned enough
dust on model
pressure in airbrush too low
>>
>>98080195
Looks like your paint may be drying mid flight. Might be holding it too far, or its too thick. Or your room is dry as hell.
>>
>>98080195
picrel
Welcome to airbrush gang, it will only get better and better.
>>
Do mr hobby and tamiya acrylic paints live up to the Japanese products being of supreme quality meme?
How are their metallics?
Anything I should be aware of before I first use them?
>>
>>98080212
>your paint may be drying mid flight.
Listen to this anon, this is most likely the case.

>>98080274
Theyre great but then again the 'good ones' arent water based.
>>
>>98079650
Seconding Badger. I've got a Renegade Velocity and it's treated me very well for years.
>>
>>98080274
Tamiya (alcohol-based) are imo one of the best acrylics for airbrushing. I would never use them for brush work, though. If you are planning to airbrush only and use them mostly for large models, they are awesome.
No clue about mr hobby.
>>
>>98080212
>>98080207
Think it might be this.

I was trying to use less pressure to make the coat I'm applying thinner, is that how it works.

Also I'm just using water to thin, are airbrush thinner & flow improver must haves?
>>
>tfw still afraid of using my H&S airbrush, constantly feeling that I will damage it

It's really awful.
>>
>>98080284
>>98080299
Thanks lads!
I like to keep my station as nontoxic as possible.
Any particular standouts from me.hobby acrylic paints?
My eyes have been on some of their metallics for a time.
>>
I posted about this to /smg/ in /toy/ earlier and got pretty good answers.
Has anyone here used very thin wire mesh for their miniatures? Is it impractical for 28mm miniatures? I reckon it could be easily used for terrain and vehicles, but I'm thinking of using it on infantry and cavalry.
>>
>>98080303
Anon, what the fuck, it's been like two months.
Stop being 1) retarded, and 2) autistic. There's like ten times greater chance you will damage your chinkshit, HS are built like tanks.
>>
>>98080303
Same here but it is a cheap airbrush said to be decent.
I did it a few times but I am still newcomer level to airbrushes so I need to restore it and try again.
>>
File: 21103.jpg (1.97 MB, 2080x2767)
1.97 MB JPG
Finished my Bust. Painted it over the course of 5 weeks in a workshop.

>>98079673
Love it anon.
>>
>>98080306
>I like to keep my station as nontoxic as possible.
Anon even if you would use some more hardcore shit like lacquers, it ain't uranium, it won't make your workplace radioactive. Just make sure you have proper ventilation.
>>
>>98079650
I have an Iwata Eclipse HP-CS and it's great.

> I’m looking for something cheap, if possible.
I would only recommend a cheap airbrush if all you're going to be using it for is priming and/or base coats for armies and even then only in a lukewarm way. Also on the note of "cheap" airbrushing, tankless compressors are worthless for mini painting. They're okay for scale modeling and gunpla where you're going to be painting panels and you're going to be laying down several coats but if you need precision then they're not worth buying.

>>98080021
>Should I buy individual paints as needed, or buy a set? I have the vallejo medieval set but need more colors now.
What colors do you need for whatever you're working on and what is your collection deficient in? I don't know if they still make it but IIRC they used to have a metallics set that was extremely handy because it had like six or eight basic metallic colors in it - gold, silver, gunmetal, etc.

>Should I buy a basic color set?
Why not, if the price is right and it's filling a hole?

>Also is there a difference between model color and game color
Game color is their totally-not-Citadel-colors line.

>>98080195
Either your model is dusty or your paint is drying mid-flight. You'll have to tinker with it to find out why but usually for me it means that I need to thin it and/or add retarder. I strongly recommend taking notes and recording what works because holy shit it's obnoxious to get something perfect and then not remember how you managed it.

>>98080274
I've never used acrylics from either but as far as their lacquer products go Mr. Finishing Surfacer 1500, Mr. Retarder Mild and Mr. Leveling Thinner are godly.
>>
>>98079650
get a cheap master airbrush and a good tank compressor
>>
>>98080316
I do not like what you did with the cape, the light doesnt behave like that.
the 'sunken' parts should be bright as well provided theyre facing the light source
>>
Boys, is there anyone itt who uses lacquer-based varnishes? How are they? I read everywhere they are much better than water-soluble.
>>
>>98080357
Yes, they are much better.
>>
>>98080302
>I was trying to use less pressure to make the coat I'm applying thinner
You've got the right basic idea, but you have to make the paint thinner to match too. Lowering the pressure means there's not as much force to atomise the paint properly, so you need a thinner mix to compensate otherwise it won't atomise properly, and you either get mid-air drying or it'll just sputter and spit flecks
>>
>>98080357
They're way better in terms of durability but you have to know what you're doing because it will melt and strip your paint if you go too heavy with it. Also super harmful if inhaled
>>
>>98079650
https://spraygunner.com/products/gsi-creos-mr-airbrush-procon-boy-ps-289-0-3mm-platinum
>>
>>98080428
>Also super harmful if inhaled
This is propaganda, the Japanese get their special modelling powers by huffing lacquer fumes, they just don't want to share that secret with the gaijin
>>
>>98080309
I know but these stupid ideas still linger at the back of my head when I pick it up. Like how I autistically check if front needle part is centered or worry about back of the needle (in this section where it touch limiting screw on the back) not going perfectly in the center of the screw.
>>
>>98080302
your pressure should be based on what you are trying to spray and how big your nozzle is. if your pressure is too high it will blow paint everywhere. if it's too low the paint won't properly atomize. basically you want to set your pressure so you have a good pattern and then leave it. if you want a thinner coat just move across the part faster.
>>
>>98080496
>needle this, needle that
Good, so you don't care about the rest of the airbrush. You shouldn't, it's all steel that will be here longer than both of us. Now, replacement needle costs like 15 Euro, stop being silly.
You can (and should) order one now. It will give you a peace of mind, and will come in handy in a couple of years once you inherently break it, because guess what, airbrush needles are consumables.
Now go fucking paint with your Evolution, it's an awesome brush.

Also, the cool thing about bent airbrush needles is that they are absolutely fantastic for making realistic chipping if you are planning on using chipping fluid or hairspray method.
>>
>>98080308
I wouldn’t use chicken wire on any minis
>>
>>98080308
You can find plastic mesh like this in fruit at grocery stores, I’d take that over something that could pierce the skin or scratch my or someone else’s paint jobs
>>
>>98080532
25€ actually. But I get what you have in mind.
>>
>>98080701
you can also use stuff like this as a mask for airbrushing
>>
>>98079650
Just as important as brand (speaking from experience) is making sure you get one that's compatible with the correct nozzle sizes. If you want broad strokes and priming make sure you get one in the 0.35-0.5mm range, if you want to do fine detailing you should get something with smaller sizes. I have an Iwata Eclipse and its great except for the fact that the smallest compatible nozzle is 0.35, so I can't do very small details like tiny OSL glow or banner writing.
>>
>>98080775
Banner writing with an airbrush?
>>
File: desslar_and_gormano_WIP02.jpg (1.97 MB, 4032x1886)
1.97 MB JPG
>>98080308
>>98080701
Several years ago, in another house, we fitted our front windows with solar screens. Having learned our lesson, when we built this house, we chose a lot that was oriented such that the blazing Texas sun wouldn't come streaming in a bank of gigantic windows with no trees or shrubs in front of it to mitigate.

One of the solar shade companies left me a "sample book" of their different screen materials, and I held onto it. I used pieces cut from it to base my Vindicare Assassin and one of my Devastator Squads so they would more closely match the pattern on the top of the Imperial Bastion I used as part of my Armies on Parade board.
>>
>>98079673
do it honk?
>>
What's the best way to remove dust from models? Pressurized air? Blow on them? Wash them? These haven't been painted yet.
>>
>>98080812
probably not for something as small as a purity seal but yes its possible with the right brush:

https://youtu.be/7obEHQqihNI?si=XQKKs50SMYqq3O92&t=542
>>
>>98081366
Compressed air followed by a large soft makeup brush
>>
Anybody got that female face makeup tutorial picture?
>>
>>98081602
just watch a youtube makeup tutorial?
>>
>>98081620
but then jewtube will think you're a tranny and start recommending you tranny videos. better be safe and look up garage kit figurine videos so it will only think you are a pedophile.
>>
>>98081623
kek, fair enough.
>>
>>98081602
bro just go back like 1-2 threads.
>>
File: IMG_0529.jpg (4.07 MB, 5712x3430)
4.07 MB JPG
>>98080991
Yeah I used some kitchen drawer liners that an eBay seller wrapped some minis in for a flocked canopy on some caravan heavy weapon squads. I used fruit netting I used on my flying aircraft carrier terrain piece as climbing nets, that wouldn’t have worked for flocking as well as the kitchen drawer mats but I did cut a ton of checked wire when I worked at the hardware store when I was in high school and that shit will cut and stab at you at every opportunity
>>
>>98080308
I've used it for bases to make grates. Used old window screens that were being thrown out
>>
File: PXL_20260521_023915976.MP.jpg (1.35 MB, 3072x4080)
1.35 MB JPG
Working on my Death Guard. Here's a Plague Marine.
>>
>>98081835
Looking pretty good to start off, I think the red needs another layer or two of top-edge edge highlights though
>>
>>98079650
Similar boat.
How’s iwata’s neo airbrushes?
I’ve used a gaahleri ghad 68 for a while.
It got dirty and I kind of let it sit for a while.

What are some good ways to restore the airbrush so I can pick up airbrushing again and then after the experience is built up I move to a better brand if the airbrush I have genuinely sucks?
I’d like to replace it with a similar looking airbrush but higher quality build.
>>
>>98081862
I've been using the Iwata eclipse recently and it's really good.
>>
Want to use this airbrush tutorial - he starts with the highlight as the first coat then works in the mid tones and shading

Is this gonna be impossible to do without sub assembly?
>>
How do I stop being a brand slave? I only want to keep buying ak paints because that's what I already have. I hate the thought of different brands being mixed together in the same box
>>
>>98081930
Specific model or is the eclipse just one model?
>traditional style and not ergonomic trigger style
Is there a reason beyond familiarity to why the airbrushes stay mostly the same design?
I didn’t like those traditional designs and preferred the ergonomic grip ones.
But then again I just want to prime basecoat and varnish.
I’m still barely above clueless in airbrushes.
>>
>>98081956
I feel ya in that brand slave concern.
Granted my favorite part of Ak is funnily enough their caps.
Having had good numbers of old Vallejo caps crack and the bubbling of new I switched to AK.
>bought box of new Ak acrylic washes
I think it is too late for me as well.
But I do have armypainter washes and proacryl paints and made a marine juice paint.
I still get your concern.
>>
Anyone got some tips to make lazy paint jobs look as good as possible (Not good just as good as possible) while still being lazy and fast? Cheats/ hacks. No airbrush.
>>
>>98081956
I don't really understand this. I just buy the paints that I need where I can get them + cool paint sets I see online that I can order through my local store.
Brand is only relevant to me due to the quirks of how different paints need to be thinned, which over awhile I've just gotten used to adjusting on a per paint basis.
>>
>>98081977
that's what speedpaints/contrast paints are for. just add a little medium to them and put it over a grey primer.
>>
>>98081991
Generally all hobby focused acrylics thin more or less the same with some water?
Excluding airbrush paints and acrylic primers and such btw.
>>
>>98082002
I've had weird interactions, like Pro Acryl Paints for example had this weird behavior where the paint would contract like mercury on the model until i learned to swirl the paint a little to incorporate everything nicely.
It's something I got over, but was definitely notably different from Vallejo, Army Painter, and GW paints.
>>
>>98082026
>definitely notably different from Vallejo, Army Painter, and GW paints.
How likely will these be the same for AK and the new formula p3 paints?
Mr.Hobby and Tamiya acrylic paints too.
>>
>>98081977
Zenithal prime and/or drybrush. Maybe sponging if you want to try that. Then you use contrast paint. Then an oil wash for recess shading. Highlight some of the edges with a brush (optional). Wah lah.

But if you want good and fast an airbrush is helpful.
>>
>>98081956
They're all acrylic paints. If they have a color you like get it, that's all there is to it.

For some of the "specialist" paints like washes/contrasts having a favorite makes sense because they all behave slightly different between brands.
>>
I hate the tricks my eyes play on me
>dark grey looks like dark grey in the bottle
>on the wet pallet it looks like light grey
>on the mini it looks black

What idiot designed these things?
>>
>>98082234
>What idiot designed these things?
The paints, the pallet, the mini, or your eyes?
>>
Would it be hard to sculpt hair like picrel with greenstuff?
>>
>>98082309
with armatures and the right tools probably not the hardest but if you've never sculpted before it's not so easy as you think
>>
File: PXL_20260521_055305318.jpg (326 KB, 1243x1228)
326 KB JPG
t -36 hours until this needs to be finished. We're starting to look like something at least.
>>
>>98080274
Mr. Hobby Acrysion are water-based acrylics. Their Aqueous line are supposed to be as well but somehow they are not. I don't get it either.
>>
Stupid question but - can so called "backflow" with airbrush (blocking front entrance so air blows back to the cup) can damage it?
>>
>>98082415
not as far as I've ever heard. I don't see why it would.
>>
>vallejo paint in china
>13 cny - $1.9
>AK paint in china
>14 cny = $2.06
>cheapest vallejo on amazon
>$7
>cheapest ak on amazon
>$11
What the fuck man?
>>
>>98082438
Buy the chinesium then. Make sure to report back if it's actually the exact same thing :)
>>
File: KIMG3070.jpg (106 KB, 871x425)
106 KB JPG
>>98080308
>Has anyone here used very thin wire mesh for their miniatures? Is it impractical for 28mm miniatures? I reckon it could be easily used for terrain and vehicles, but I'm thinking of using it on infantry and cavalry.
Yes. Some of the meshes have a coating that makes superglue stick very poorly. You may need to soak them in acetone or another degreaser before use. Highly-polished aluminum may even require a pass with an emery board or epoxy. If you cut it on the diagonal it makes for excellent cyclone fencing (pic related, combined with 1/2" hardware cloth that has had the central cross of wire removed to make 1" sections). It's also a really common armature material for reinforcing clay and plaster sculptures. I've used it in layers between cellulose clay and papier-maiche to build up forms for lightweight terrain in much the same way you might use plaster-cloth in an old-school model railroad layout.

>>98082309
The hardest parts will be letting the large chunks stay large, keeping the braid even, and the skull collar. Hair and fur in general are pretty easy, but big anime hair with the large locks is much more difficult to keep looking even and balanced.
>>
>>98082438
>on amazon
that was your mistake
>>
>>98082449
>Buy the chinesium then. Make sure to report back if it's actually the exact same thing :)

Bought some before. Other than the long shipping times, nothing seemed unusual to me
>>
File: ick.jpg (111 KB, 800x906)
111 KB JPG
>chinkshit paint
>>
What’s the best way to source mirrors and shattered glass for bases? Making some with plasticard?
>>
File: boney.jpg (346 KB, 1025x918)
346 KB JPG
And done
>>
>>98082415
I've heard mixed things from different airbrush users on its effect on seals, but I don't think you need to worry with any proper branded airbrush, maybe just Chinesium ones with poor material and tolerance QC
>>
>>98080303
>H&S
Kek
A good choice 20 years ago
today a $50 Chinese one is just as good and a $100 jap one is better
>>
>>98082449
>he thinks it's people selling fake paint instead of brands regional pricing
Buying legit boxed Warhammer is also way cheaper in china.
>>
>>98081937
>starting with highlights
Doesn't make much sense to me, tbqh. Why not do it the other way, start from the darkest? That way, you can layer it easy, and it requires no sub-assembly apart from the head

>>98082415
No, any normal airbrush won't get damaged by backbrapping. No promises about cheap chinkshit.

>>98082438
>cheapest ak on amazon
>$11
What the fuck. A bottle cost 2.75 EUR directly from AK.
>>
>>98082776
Stop baiting, retard.
>>
>>98082809
>start highlights
Starting with the highlights does give a subtle tint to your basecoat in those spots. It's barely noticeable but it can look quite cool if done right. I don't know if it's worth the extra effort, though, and you can achieve much the same by going at it from the other direction and blending the highlights, in my understanding (which might be wrong, admittedly).
>>
File: HI1qHf_bYAAGjac.jpg (512 KB, 2048x1152)
512 KB JPG
finished the latest addition to my dwarf army.
>>
>>98082897
i will bever get over how people dedicate the effort to do a good fine paintjob but can't be arsed to remove layer lines on printed bases

also get a brass rod for that flyer and paint it black, that wiggly wire is sad
>>
File: IMG_0625.png (89 KB, 250x333)
89 KB PNG
>>98082908
It’s just a tray faggot.
>>
>>98082908
I know, right? Bases are such a weird thing to cheap out on, considering they cost basically nothing to get some third party plastic injection bases.
>>
File: IMG_0915.jpg (2.05 MB, 5070x4000)
2.05 MB JPG
First ever attempt at nmm with the sword please roast me
>>
>>98082897
Those guys are epic!! I love dwarves. Rock and stone!! Great job anon, now I want to make my own, too
>>
>>98082963
>not in focus
>meme domino nmm
dont do this, dont add a gazillion highlights
just a bight bright one is more than enough to sell the effect.
adding several is so incredibly stupid and makes no fucking sense at all

>inb4 muh secondary reflectionsd
not the same as what im talking about
>>
>>98082963
It just looks striped, not like it's reflecting light differently along the blade.
>>
>>98082897
These look awful on the new bases. Do them a favor and put them on their rightful homes instead of that shit.
>>
File: bruh.png (274 KB, 467x465)
274 KB PNG
>>98082963
bruh
>>
>>98082963
Nice work. It looks like it's embedded in the ghost of a zebra that died begging you not to take the picture.

It's alright for a first attempt, better than mine, honestly. Maybe alternate the lights and darks on the opposite sides of the blade, next time? And go for an angular reflection with the lighting rather than a smooth pale but not quite bright sphere.
>>
>>98082984
Least obvious samefag
>>
>>98082987
What?
>>
>>98082987
>>98082990
Occusing someone of being a samefag and then saying that it isn't very obvious is weird.
>>
File: 1779364280780.png (98 KB, 310x152)
98 KB PNG
>>98082951
put your glasses on grandpa
>>
File: 1376247638677.jpg (322 KB, 1053x1070)
322 KB JPG
>>98082897
These look great anon, nice job.
>>98082908
>>98082959
>>98083009
picrel
>>
>>98083009
Hey, as long as all the bases look like that consistently, I don't see the issue.
>>
>>98083009
?
>>
>>98082897
The other posters are right, you should putty over those print lines.
>>98082987
Multiple people can have the same opinion, anon. Printed bases just look shit without a little bit of work, it's not your fault.
>>
>>98083018
>no anon you can't voice any criticistm in this board, everything must be cocksucking
>>
File: tom meier troglodytes.jpg (717 KB, 1280x960)
717 KB JPG
As someone just getting into painting what are the colors I should buy if I want things to pop?
Like I don't care about realism but i'm not looking for that rainbow pastel stuff.
I have fond memories of old Citadel and 2nd-3rd edition warhammer a childhood friend's older brother had and they were painted in bright reds, greens, blues etc.
>>
>>98083050
Most colors can pop if you give it a bit of contrast with what's below it. Most of the time, this means dark colour below, and vivie saturated colour above. If you like that style of bright colours, pick stuff on opposite sides of the colour wheel. Mix yellow or pale skin colour into your highlights, and very dark blue into your shadows. Contrast matters more than colour, imo. Oh, and prime black. That way you can build up to bright where you want it, but your recesses can stay dark, helping with that contrast.
>>
>>98083061
Disagree with the black prime. If you want bright colors, prime white. It's easier to get your contrast through a dark wash or two than it is to get bright colors on black.
>>
>>98083098
Strong disagree. The purpose is contrast between dark and bright, not overall brightness, which would look flat. Unless you are pin shading or oil washing perhaps, it's much more time consuming to darken down your shadows and recesses than it is to lighten up your highlights.
>>
Since anon is new, they should try both and see what works for them. It may well be a preference thing and familiarity with other techniques.
>>
>>98083107
>Unless you are pin shading or oil washing perhaps
I don't really understand what you think the difference between an oil wash and a regular wash is.
>>
>>98083107
painting any bright color over black is a pain, making someone new suffer through that is unnecesary, let him learn the easy way and not get instantly frustrated
>>
>>98080469
The ps 270 is the same as ps 289, The only different is nozzle size, right?
>>
>>98083050
something like this?
https://youtu.be/6p5B0IBMx8c
>>
>>98083128
A regular wash (e.g. citadel shade paint, or diluted acrylic) doesn't darken enough in a single application and is often messy and needs additional layering up of brights if applied indiscriminately (as is usually the case with new painters). A pin wash is applying something that covers better (ink or black speedpaint) into recesses directly, generally on vehicles or grooves on armour, etc. An oil wash is applied all over, darkens very well, and is then cleaned up afterwards on the raised parts. Works great, but not something I'd expect a new painter to do.

>>98083153
We can agree to disagree, but the newbies I paint with every week have stopped using the white primer and default to the black. Put a brown layer over the black, build up towards bright colours. But really, it's up to anon which they want to do since they're both valid approaches. I will grant you that if anon is painting primarily with white or yellow, or using speedpaints, then a bright primer can save time.
>>
>>98083194
>often messy and needs additional layering up of brights if applied indiscriminately
Do people not use the finger wipe?
>>
File: dremel sneed.png (320 KB, 1242x712)
320 KB PNG
i'm going to go and pick one of these up for my dremel tomorrow morning. does anyone know if there are any pin vises that have the same threading as dremel tools? i just checked both my chinkshit pin vises and they are very similar in size but not compatible. i need to replace my pin vises anyway as they are both garbage and it would be nice to find a model that can accept dremel parts if such a thing exists.
>>
>>98082645
I’ve thought about breaking acrylic panels apart, maybe that can work and still be safe?
>>
>>98083222
Works fine on diluter acrylics, shade paints often still smudge a bit. Can be frustrating if it happens after colours are nice and bright. Can also pool or make sections a bit glossy or muddy if not diluted properly, common mistake for beginners.
>>
File: dread.jpg (1.24 MB, 2318x2048)
1.24 MB JPG
My first dreadnought, second hand with missing leg armor (hopefully will find some somehow) and getting painted up for my fallen. I stole a model plane transfer for the number but it was too dark so I painted over it.
>>
>>98083223
Just use that as your pin vise, it's got good grip on it.
>>
>>98083244
Love the boxy fellow
>>
File: ashwastes.jpg (3.65 MB, 4080x3072)
3.65 MB JPG
>>98083223
might be an interesting project to get another one of those chucks and make a handle for it to complete the pin vise

got my terrain and squat tank on the board tuesday. My opponent's techno color escher hover skiff was very pretty
>>
>>98083344
Awe, that looks kief bru
I like the aperture you made
>>
>>98083344
Extremely cool, anon. Was fun to watch it grow in these past few threads.
>>
>>98083223
most dremel clones and pin vises are m8 fine, dremels use some freedom unit thread of about 7.1mm, it would be easier to get a chuck for the dremel and another one in m8 than to find a pin vise with dremel sized thread
>>
>>98083365
>some freedom unit thread
Which is standard stuff, it's a pain when you get some whosit metric threading on shit.
>>
>>98083375
You mean the normal threading used in the entire world including the US for anything that matters?
>>
>>98083194
>the newbies I paint with every week have stopped using the white primer and default to the black
wich means they learned the basics on white primer and then switched to black for one reason or another, wich is exactly my point
>>
>>98083378
You're living in a tiny bubble, I'm in fucking canada and driving a japanese truck, even still the metric wrenches are a specialty tool gathering dust in the back seat of my truck that only rarely get pulled out because for everything that matters SAE is default.
>>
>>98083378
I work for an engineering company its all imperial. You need to measure in Imperial because the high end tools are in imperial. I only find metric in cheap chinese stuff.
>>
>>98083383
Well, no, some of them preferred black to start with. Of the ones that wanted white, they mainly got frustrated after seeing how much faster and cleaner the black ones were going. Black guys never had to bother with washes and did maybe one or two coats more. But hey, use whatever you like and make up your own mind.
>>
>>98083375
didn't try to imply anything
it may be standard in the usa and in very specific applications like pipe thread all over the word sure, i just don't know wich fraction or whatever is it but i can measure it with the metric calipher i have and i can tell it's not a metric thread

if you want my take on it, freedom units are anachronic, and a superfluous conversion layer, an inch is defined as 2.54cm so you guys are just obfuscating using metric, it makes no sense to keep it around other than compatibility for old stuff
>>
>>98083375
>>98083378
just looked into it. it is imperial but it is not a standard freedom unit. 0.28-40 apparently. the nose for attachments is 3/4-12 but they had to scum out and use a size that may as well be proprietary for the output shaft.
>>98083365
thanks for letting me know about the m8 fine on clones/pin vises though, will keep it in mind.
>>
>>98083429
The entire defense of metric hinges on the units being "scientific" based on the measurements of the earth, except that goes out the window the moment you discover that those figures were rounded for simplicity, so metric is exactly as arbitrary as SAE is, the problem being that SAE is arbitrary based on human body averages (which is something every human body has on hand) and metric is based on very rounded planetary scale, well no one can zoom out and use the planet as a frame of reference, so SAE is useful for everyday function, metric is unintuitive for same.
>>
>>98083422
>much faster and cleaner the black ones were going
i honestly can't imagine how but yea, as you said, 'use whatever you like', i use neither, but i remember my frustration when i started in the hobby painting white shoulderpads on black templars 20 years ago, and would not wish that experience upon anyone
>>
>>98083445
Ah, fair enough, you had a bad experience. I guess maybe it's different when you have someone there to explain to you how layering up to brighter colours works, or when you're not primarily painting things that are broad and pure white. It's all trade-offs in the end, and you've got to try stuff to figure out what works for you and what doesn't.
>>
>>98083441
the entire point of metric is easy unit conversion you stupid nigger
>>
>>98083441
the 'defense' of metric is that it is the de facto standard even for inches, nobody cares where any of them comes from, just wich one is used around them or is readily available as is the case of anon looking for chinesium chucks, the intuitiveness comes from use

> measurements of the earth
not anymore, it's now derived from lightspeed
>>
>>98083463
>it's different when you have someone there to explain to you how layering up to brighter colours works
this is key, back then there where no resources (i didn't even have internet) and barely anyone around in the hobby so i went in blind, nowadays with youtube and shit it's easier to get a footing, more so if you are learning in person, also paints are better and cover better
>>
>>98082963
It's crazy how forced this looks. Might as well glue on a head with bunny ears.
>>
>/WIP/ - Units and measurements
Go grab your inhalers and calm your tits, you fucking dweebs.
>>
>>98083479
Very true. Resources are way more accessible and their quality is generally pretty good.
Paints are also definitely better now than back then, yeah. I remember being really frustrated even ten years ago, having just gotten my first pack of army painter v1s and trying to paint fire.
>>
>>98083488
I would go for bunny girl knights, yeah.
>>
File: teutonic-knights-5.png (39 KB, 524x393)
39 KB PNG
>>98083504
They're out there, you just gotta know where to look
>>
>>98083524
Pyon~
Yeah, that's neat
>>
>>98083394
>>98083397
>You're living in a tiny bubble
>>
>>98083554
As I said I am canadian and only people contracted to the government use metric, so I know that chart is a big lie, all of canada should be labeled as mixed.
Which means other nations will also likely be denoted incorrectly.
Try again.
>>
>>98083554
>UK - mixed

To add salt to the wound, they also use various non-standard units in many unique cases like telling people's weight in "stones" (14 "avoirdupois pounds", around 6.35kg). Imagine being told someone weight "14 stones". It's one big clusterfuck.
>>
>>98083554
>>98083572
>>98083575
Shut the fuck up.
>>
>>98083586
Has this ever worked?
>>
File: genes.jpg (611 KB, 1920x1440)
611 KB JPG
Anyone else stuck in the batch painting purgatory?
>>
File: drill.png (74 KB, 871x522)
74 KB PNG
Speaking of drills, am I missing something or can I just get a generic hand drill and drill bits for things like pining and drilling holes for pikes? I don't get the point of the Army Painter one with the collets + it seems to have generally mixed reviews. Please help, I'm genuinely a bit lost.
>>
>>98083634
not even to the batch painting part
I'm in test model hell
>>
>>98083648
My condolences anon.
>>
>>98083636
You can get generic drill bits and hand-drill no problem. If you want a dedicated hobby one, get Tamiya, it's the original of the copy you have on pic, it should be similarly priced.
Also, please, don't buy AP tools. It's overpriced dogshit cheapest chinkshit with AP stamp on it.
>>
>>98083634
9 isn't a batch.
>>
>>98083636
unbranded small drill bit packs are almost invariably shit, either get a good known branded one or buy "pcb drill bits" which cut a lot better even from any noname store on aliexpress, they also come in .1mm increments, the only downside is that they are shorter and very brittle, so you will break some

the hand drill itself can be anything that can hold a 3.2mm shaft (for the pcb drill bits), collets are better if you only use one size, in any other case chucks are more convenient

if you want a powered one well... i ended up building my own because i couldn't find one that checked all the boxes, but the tamiya diy one is close

>>98083666
tamiya tools while good quality are more often than not also overpriced rebranded stuff
>>
>>98083770
>tamiya tools while good quality are more often than not also overpriced rebranded stuff
I'm not sure, all my Tamiya stuff is made in japan, and it's definitely not their top of the line either.
>>
>>98083586
No, fuck you.
>>
>>98083572
Read the text at the bottom.
>>
File: IMG_0749.jpg (3.5 MB, 4508x3486)
3.5 MB JPG
>>98083634
25 blueberries brother, then I have two bloodbowl teams to paint for my daughters
>>
>>98083915
didn't say it was 'chinese' rebranded, their small hobby saw is olfa for example and costs twice as much as the olfa one
>>
>>98083924
All construction that isn't direct government contract.
>>
>>98083926
>then I have two bloodbowl teams to paint for my daughters
Starting them young, good on you.
What are the teams?
>>
File: IMG_20260521_111639_HDR.jpg (1.42 MB, 4000x3000)
1.42 MB JPG
Took the general advice of the anon last thread with the flaps. Calling the lot done except for putting a layer of payne's grey over the shaft of the maul
>>
File: images1.jpg (5 KB, 212x237)
5 KB JPG
>>98080303
>tfw still afraid of using my H&S airbrush, constantly feeling that I will damage it
Same. I have three airbrushes: one cheap chinkshit, one mid-range chinkshit, and a creos ps-270. I’ve never used the ps-270 because i’m afraid i’ll damage it
>>
>>98084137
>I’ve never used the ps-270 because i’m afraid i’ll damage it
I regularly use pliers to yank the needle out of mine, you'll be fine.
>>
>>98084008
Kara temple Harpies and nagaroth nightmares, I’ve got an ork and bretonian team from the 93 edition
>>
>>98084029
The lighting makes them appear kind of blue but I can tell they're very cleanly painted, nice job!
>>98083344
Watching your progress on that terrain piece has been really enjoyable, it turned out great.
>>98083244
Very nice colors, this is what I imagine dreadnoughts would look like if they really existed.
>>98082897
Lovely stunties, anon,
>>98080316
Eyes, hair, leather and skin are all painted really well but I have agree that the more eavy metal-ish cloak feels a bit at odds with the rest of your paintjob.
>>98079247
I really like the vibrant colors you used here, the skin especially looks great.
>>98079022
Incredibly clean as always, the shading on that yellow clkoth is particularly nice.
>>
File: anime-noted.gif (288 KB, 220x220)
288 KB GIF
>>98083666
>>98083770
Thanks anons, ended up going with this Donau one and some of their hobby drillbits, if they turn out to be shit then I can always look for better options.
>>
I literally don't understand black primer cultists. if it's a given that you will be painting dark colors and light colors then you are either going to have to paint lights over darks or darks over lights and one is very clearly easier than the other.
>>
>>98082645
>What’s the best way to source mirrors and shattered glass for bases? Making some with plasticard?
Stiffen an aluminized mylar balloon with superglue, then chop it into shards and put them on the base. It has a good scale size and insane reflectivity, but you have to add it after the model is matte varnished.
>>
File: IMG_0866.jpg (470 KB, 945x1863)
470 KB JPG
Needs a bit of touch up but holy shit this thing is coming together
>>
>>98084852
if nothing else its a good way to practise your layering and break your habits a little
>>
>>98084861
I don't remember the pink Power Ranger being this chunky, but it does look very sleek and polished.
>>
>>98080351
>>98084312
Yeah, that's the part I struggled the most with.
I wanted to paint it purple for the contrast to the warm face, but the one I had was terrible to mix so I didn't put much work into it.
>>
>>98084861
it does look very pristine and very nice
are you going to weather some of it
>>
>>98082776
Had my eye on the ghad-68 for a bit.
Is it good anybody here have a pic showing he owns one to make opinion more valid?

Amazon reviews seem positive and YouTube reviews seem good.
Problem is that Amazon reviews probably are not reliable for info on long term use and YouTube reviews are most likely paid to be positive through sponsorship or sucking up to the company and people who want the product they’re curious about hyped up positively.
>>
>>98084861
Man, this would be so cool to weather. Good shit, anon.
>>
>>98084861
Why is it pink? Genuine question
>>
>plaster
>water
>mod podge/pva glue
>used coffee grounds
Is this really all I need for good looking terrain paste
>>
File: IMG_7654.jpg (2.59 MB, 4030x2835)
2.59 MB JPG
>>98084920
I’m doing it as my custom chapter, been painting them for years. This is my love letter to them before I put them in a box for a while.
>>
>>98084960
>bubblegum marines
I... actually kinda like this
>>
>>98084878
>>98084888
>>98084902
Thanks boys. I’m wearing it to this upcoming DragonCon, I’m thinking I’ll keep it pristine, and any inevitable scratches and scrapes from actually wearing it’ll touch up weathering metallic and burn marks. Actual battle damage.
>>
>>98084954
>good looking terrain paste
Depends. Is your goal only a dull mid quality mud? I guess so.
>>
>>98084977
>I’m thinking I’ll keep it pristine
Good choice. What degenerate space marine doesn't keep his armor clean?
>>
>>98084852
If you're using an airbrush you get naturally better shading starting from black & it's easy to get natural looking highlights.
>>
>black prime
>white prime
zenithal prime >>> mono color
>>
>>98085021
the truly enlightened way is to do a kinda zenithal but with shades of your main basecoat color
>>
>>98085008
>If you're using an airbrush
agreed its a real treat to paint big terrain pieces or vehicles gradually from black
it also feels like you cant fail and everything you do makes you do a chefs kiss
t. eri
>>
>>98085026
once you get to ascended tier you do a nadiral with your shadow color and a zenithal with your base coat and highlight colors

I'm going to paint an army of blood angels this way
>>
>>98085008
Try very dark brown, it's even better.
>>
>>98084960
Real gangsters wear pink
>>
File: 1764201261703323.jpg (1.55 MB, 1780x1270)
1.55 MB JPG
I'm doing it purely artistically but with the amount of effort I still don't really want to paint multiple similar models. Maybe I shouldn't have planned that or maybe I'll find every single paint scheme in existence to try.
>>
>>98085053
what model?
>>
>>98085035
NTA but I spray the entire mini in my shadow color and then zenithal working through my midtone and highlight. Quick and easy volumes
>>
>>98085057
Across the Realms Valkyrie Drop Squad
>>
>>98084852
Painting recesses without marring raised surfaces is hard, the opposite is easy.
A missed spot of black undercoat doesn't stick out, a missed pinhead size spot of white undercoat is a fucking neon sign.
>>
do you usually do the bare minimum when you paint or do you like to sometimes challenge yourself
it is so easy to just paint away but there is always this though in the back of your head asking you should try this and that
>>
Are lighter primer colors just inherently more difficult to get opaque coverage with? I'm using Colour Forge ghoul grey, which is basically just grey seer and it's taking a lot more passes to cover up the plastic fully. And the basing material is hardly covered at all.
>>
>>98085153
>do you usually do the bare minimum
Why would I do that with something I enjoy doing
>>
>>98085153
I'm somewhat comfortable with my current skill level but I still try to improve by refining things I know already. I try to give my all to every mini I paint, no matter how insignificant it is
>>
>>98084977
I'll be keeping an eye out for you anon
>>
File: IMG_2348.jpg (439 KB, 1894x2113)
439 KB JPG
I think he's done?
Maybe I could push the highlight in a couple places even more..
>>
>>98085419
Check the base size
>>
>>98085427
25mm, the only proper size.
>>
>>98085427
looks allright
he can always make a scenic slot base for the new editions
>>
>>98085008
you don't get any shading painting over black, you can preshade using a combination of black and white, but painting over black alone just gives you darker tones.

>>98085112
why not just paint the recesses black but leave the parts you don't need to be black not black? for example if you are painting a black templar why not use gray primer and paint the black parts black and the white parts white?
>>
>>98085446
My 40k armies are more of a passion project to play older editions togethery with my friends. I don't really plan on going beyond 5th edition as far as rules and models are concerned(for the most part).
>>
>>98085612
based
>>
>>98085612
and what would be the point anyway to base everything on current bases because with small bases you can always make them bigger but with big bases you can never go back
not to siderail the thread or anything but its just common sense
>>
>>98085509
>painting over black alone just gives you darker tones.
And as you add opaque layers of lighter highlights, they darken less and less and you get good contrast.
>>
What reason could there be for wash gaining shine after drying? First time this has ever happened to me.
>>
>>98085745
Either you didn't shake it enough before applying or you're using GWs new formula which always dries a bit glossy for some reason
>>
>>98085751
Must have taken too little time shaking them. Oh well, here's hoping varnish will matte that down notch. Thanks
>>
>>98085740
This person understands. Once you go black, you never go back.
>>
I need a step by step breakdown for retards on how to paint an heraldic lion.

I tried multiple times to paint them but I'm never satisfied with the result.
>>
>>98086089
Look at one, break it down into a couple of simple shapes, paint those shapes.
>>
>>98086110
There are way more than a couple of shapes in an heraldic lion. I need one that can be broken into simple easily reproducible shapes so the result can be consistent. It's much harder than simple symbols.
>>
>>98086089
>>98086119
Could you post examples of the style of heraldry you're aiming for?
>>
File: lion.jpg (33 KB, 518x604)
33 KB JPG
>>98086135
Something like that and about 15mm tall.
>>
>>98086089
idk about steps but remember that heraldric lions have cocks. if you don't draw the cock it has a different meaning.
>>
>>98086186
kys
>>
I've finally decided to cheat my highlights by holding the model up to a light taking pictures to see where the highlights should be
>>
>>98086189
tranny
>>
>>98086189
He's right though, happened with the swedish military recently? maybe finnish.
Either way it was because feminists bitched but the dickless lion in heraldry means the one displaying it is dishonorable.
>>
>>98086496
That was from like 2008
>>
>>98086506
Shush, I am not getting old.
>>
>>98084145
What?
>>
anyone know a good stripping agent that gets rid of like, REALLY gummed on paint in areas that i cant exactly brush? having problems with old warmachine stuff and both simple green and krud cutter hasnt worked out
>>
>>98084895
Gaahleri? Their mid to high end airbrushes has serious quality control problem.
>>
>>98085444
>>98085446
Sorry anon when I said check the base side i was projecting from experience. I recently I finished some armored sentinels and then later learned that the new models were on a larger base (60mm to 80mm I think). I had drilled in trees and put an extra guardsmen under them so it was a hassle to order new bases and rebase them.
Model looks great
>>
File: IMG_20260521_140510_DRO.jpg (2.09 MB, 4000x3000)
2.09 MB JPG
>>98084312
Thanks. Been playing with opencamera's settings so here they are less blue
>>
>>98082897
These are sick, dude!
>>
>>98083926
>History Channel
>Tom Clancy
Based boomer.
>>
>>98086729
NTA but looks better IMO.
>>
>>98086793
Back in my day history channel had two shows, hitler and Japan.
>>
>>98086837
I haven't watched actual tv in almost 20 years, is the history channel not 24/7 "hitler is bad" now?
>>
>>98086869
It was "ancient aliens good" last I checked.
>>
>>98086873
I have seen this meme, but IIRC that was at least a decade ago, are they really milking that crap for more than ten seasons?
>>
>>98083634
I have ~230 'gaunts primed and ready to start...

>>98083648
I found the color scheme I want to paint my nids, but the test model part really is a bitch
>>
>>98086496
kys
>>
>>98086621
are they metal or plastic?
>>
>>98086885
plastic
>>
>>98087070
Have you tried biostrip?
>>
>>98084861
dude this is awesome! what materials are you using? specially for the ceramite.
>>
>>98087083
i have not, will look into it, thank you anon
>>
>>98086621
what kind of paint is on it? 99% isopropyl does a pretty good job with acrylics in just 5 to 10 minutes.
>>
>>98087111
it's acrylic, yeah, but it seems like it's somehow become something else if that makes sense? something is weird about it. it WAS turbodork originally but now it's this fuckin, black shit that sticks to something near forever
>>
>>98086707
Yeah gaahleri.
>quality control problems
Alright I got some airbrush cleaner stuff and hopefully it will restore the airbrush I left dirty for like a year with just Acrylics.

How do I know as a beginner that I got one from a common bad batch?
Does the ghad 68 count as mid or high tier? Looks like entry tier to me.
>>
>>98087119
Forgot to add.
I’ve heard that for basecoat like priming and varnish airbrushes in the shape of the 68 seem best as you just squeeze and let things go.
If not the 68 what’s a brush in the same style that will be much better in every way?

Read that iwata’s copy might be just chinese made so probably not up to standard with their reputation and pricing.
>>
>>98086869
Classic history channel wasn’t hitler was bad, it was WWII was awesome
>>
>>98084895
>>98086707
>>98087119
>>98087131
>lots of airbrush questions
What are some other places than here to ask for airbrush recommendations and advice?
I’m sorry if I’m being a returning annoyance.
>>
>>98086316
It's not cheating, you're learning.

Protip for the future, especially for hard self shadows, just close one eye and look at the model from the perspective of the light, and trace that outline of the non-visible areas to get your core shadow. You can do the same thing for highlights it's just a little harder because you have to take into account the surface normal angle as well.
>>
>>98087268
you might ask >>>/m/gpg/ as well. Airbrushes are very common in finescale and gunpla, moreso than in tabletop
>>
My kitbashed Termi Librarian for a homebrew chapter, still working on some highlights here and there but he's basically done
>>
>>98086568
When I disassemble my airbrush for cleaning, I use the tool known as pliers, to remove the part of the airbrush known as the needle, in the rare cases where it becomes stuck.
>>
>>98087321
Thanks!
>>
Is it possible to spray paint remover with the airbrush? Or it will fuck it up?
>>
whats a good colour to go with blue? trying to make the scales on my snaggas look electrified with blue in the recesses but need a base colour to go with it
>>
>>98082897
What's your process?
>>
>>98079247
whats your skin recipe? looks real clean
>>
man some of the posts in this thread are worst than /40kg/, is it normally like this?
>>
File: 20260522_154316.jpg (1.62 MB, 1848x2930)
1.62 MB JPG
Almost finished my first knight, just got to slasher the base in astrogranite then it's done.
>>
>>98087357
dude that's not a knight, that's a robot
>>
>>98087342
you are already spraying ipa if you use thinner or cleaner
some claim it will dry the rubber gaskets but that will take years
>>
>>98087372
im not talking about ipa but dedicated paint stripper such as the AK or GSW ones
>>
File: aquila.jpg (227 KB, 988x1331)
227 KB JPG
Thought I'd drop in one of my recent minis. Still gotta finish the base and tone down the gun, and fix a couple details here and there (like that accidental brush swipe on his duster).
>>
>>98087372
>>98087378
imagine spraying your minis with beer, what a bunch of retards
>>
>>98087393
hipsterism has gone too far
care to see my lumberjack colored ultramarine army, they all have pineapple hair and beards
>>
File: 003.jpg (19 KB, 240x300)
19 KB JPG
>>98087344
>process?
of what?
>>
>>98080274
never used the paints, but I've been happy with every other Mr hobby thing I've used
>>
>>98081862
Iawata is great, but honestly you don't really see a crazy improvement from a mid to high end ghal one, Mr hobby procon boy are also good
>>
>>98087384
Nice work anon
>>
>>98084895
I've got the swallowtail one, wanted to try a pistol grip, quality is fine, pleasantly surprised by the spares they provided tho and good disassembly instructions, hello pasche, plus their site has all the parts you may need and they are cheap, I don't see how you can go wrong with them, it's not like 20 years ago when it was either H&S and iawata or some poor quality ones, the standards have gone up and it's hard to justify the latters prices
>>
>>98087350
Here haven’t been here in a while.
How bad has it gotten?
This place has or had reputation of being chill.
Maybe it is a seasonal thing?

>>98087487
Which ones are the mid and high ones of ghal?
>>98087539
Fair enough.
I didn’t see downloadable pdf instructions on phone mode so maybe I missed it.
If the instructions are lost due to me being disorganized then I need digital backups.
>>
>>98087577
I don't know I'm not a sales rep, check their site, also
>If the instructions are lost due to me being disorganized then I need digital backups.
Bro
Zoomers are worse than boomers
>>
File: PXL_20260522_081103267.MP.jpg (1.57 MB, 3072x4080)
1.57 MB JPG
Did some work on a Deathshroud Terminator tonight. A little too busy at work to finish but I can touch up the Scythe and his back/shoulders tomorrow night.
>>
File: 71ar2onIDBL._SL1500_.jpg (199 KB, 1218x1500)
199 KB JPG
anybody tried sculpting and painting their own minis with greenstuff or clay? Just got pic related but wanted to see some examples
>>
>>98087603
Fr no cap we are.
Is there any way to save us?
To be fair my hobby space is a mishmash of art supplies and my pile of shame.
I do plan to try and organize it today.
>>
File: IMG_4555.jpg (957 KB, 2344x2424)
957 KB JPG
Some 3D printed bits arrived today

Scale is slightly too big for normal cataphractii (guessing they were made for some truescale STL or tortuga bay?)

Gonna see what I can do, might just strap a load of shit to his legs so it's not as noticeable.
>>
>>98087384
/fa/ as fuck
>>
>>98087372
>some claim it will dry the rubber gaskets but that will take years
No, it won't. Gaskets/o-rings are coated nowadays. At least with good airbrushes, no promises about cheap chinese ones.

>>98081862
Iwata Eclipse or HS Evolution are great starter airbrushes. Don't buy chinkshit.

>>98087119
>gaahleri
Their stuff is mid, with serious QA issues. Gaahleri is the usual chink airbrush copy-of-a-copy company, they excel in one thing, and that's marketing. That's the only reason why Gaahleri is such a "big name" with airbrushes. I can sperg out more about the subject, but I don't wanna annoy anons with walls of text, so I will only do it if you are interested.
>>
>>98087891
No idea about Eclipse, but HS Evolution is definitely not a starter airbrush.
>>
>>98087933
NTA but why not? It's the first and only airbrush I've bought so far and I've been using it for like 3 years at this point with only issues being user errors.
>>
>>98087933
Yes, it is. It will not limit user in any way, and it won't break as easily as chinkshit if you fuck something up. It also won't make you hate airbrushing, like many cheap airbrushes will.
Buying cheap for a beginner never made any sense when it comes to airbrushing (and many other crafts).
>>
>>98087933
Anon, you first need to start using it to know. I know it's you, and I know you are still too scared to use it.
>>
>>98087938
>>98087950
Evolution is more of a mid-range Airbrush, most begginers will look at the cost and just get scared off, not to mention how easy it is to break something in your airbrush without proper care that you need to learn first.
Chinkshit while shit, is cheap enough not to discourage experimenting and doing some tweaking with it in case you need to.

>>98087952
I literally own an Evolution and I love it. I would never ask a noob to spend 200+ dollars on 'starter' hardware.
The absolute cope.
>>
>>98087952
It's actually not me. And sort of indeed I am scared but mostly about how nozzle always keeps jamming with paint leftovers inside, to the point where needle won't return to "standby" position but it's always little retracted - I suspect it might damage the nozzle in long run. The only solution I see is to flush, take nozzle and needle out and clean both every two colors change. But it takes some time and it's not very convenient, especially given H&S nozzles being very long, longer than my synthetic brushes are (which were enough to get inside Chinese nozzles and push leftovers outside - I would rather avoid using needle itself for that, brush pose no risk of actually damaging metal).
>>
>>98087970
Cheap shit is shit enough to discourage experimenting. I've lost count of the amount of people I've seen dip their toe into airbrushing, cheap out, and convince themselves they'd never learn and it's too hard when really it was impossible to tell what limitations were lack of skill and what were shit equipment
I was nearly one of them, until I got a H&S Evo
>>
>>98087970
>not to mention how easy it is to break something in your airbrush without proper care
It's an airbrush, not rocket engine. Learning proper care means watching two videos on youtube. Like where even this myth that it is easy to break something INSIDE your airbrush started?
>I would never ask a noob to spend 200+ dollars on 'starter' hardware.
Yeah, because it makes so much more sense to buy 50 USD chinkshit first, and then 200 USD one anyway, because you found out how shit that first one is. And that's the better case scenario, because it's usually people just getting dissuaded from using it anyway, since it's such a pain to use/clean/etc.
>>
File: newpaints.jpg (112 KB, 1024x1251)
112 KB JPG
What do my new paints say about me?
>>
>>98088029
That you like vibrant colors and are therefore my nigga
>>
>>98088029
SOVL
I can already imagine the 90s style oldhammer painted with those.
>>
>>98087980
Anon, it's the same problem you had in the past. It's a nothinburger you keep letting grow inside your brain out of proportions. There are tens of thousands of people using the same airbrush daily.
>I suspect it might damage the nozzle in long run
No. Also if there's paint on the needle tip, just clean it, how is this an issue? Keep an old brush dipped in cleaner nearby and just regularly remove any paint from the tip, like every minute or so, depending on what you are doing. Why are you even letting so much paint build on the needle in the first place?
> The only solution I see is to flush, take nozzle and needle out and clean both every two colors change
Wat. Again, no. Use the brush, keep cleaning the needle tip, and when you need to change a color, first pour out the old paint, then flush the cup with water, pour more water (or cleaner) into the cup, backbrap, pour out, pour clean water, spray through the airbrush doing back and forth full range motion with your trigger. Replace the color, paint, repeat as much as you need. It takes like a minute.
>>
Thousand sons anon, do you thin your ret gold?
>>
srsly for all the people having SO much trouble with airbrushes, you need help, like actual in-person help, your will go nowhere asking about it here again and again and getting the same advice over and over or watching the nth video about it, because you are either too autistic or too stupid (i don't want to be mean but it is what it is)

do get an actual person to teach you, go to a convention, a club, or enroll on some course, not everyone is equipped to learn by doing by himself, and that's ok
>>
>>98087327
Looks cool man
>>
>>98087699
Looks fine as is imo
>>
>>98088051
>>98088037
Yes, I know there was a discussion about this problem before but that was also the conclusion, including talking with two local scale models stores owners - that "it's just how it is", so to speak and there is nothing I can do to prevent that. Honest. You give instruction on color change and guess what? I'm doing exactly that, it won't prevent paint from accumulating inside the nozzle. Because that was the whole point - paint building INSIDE nozzle, NOT on the tip, which is either clean or is being cleaned by me when I spray. And it's not any kind of faulty hardware either, one of said owners asked me to bring that airbrush with me next time and when I did, he took it apart, concluded it's completely fine, assembled back in, tested spraying, tested cleaning and when took nozzle and needle out, they had paint leftovers on both. That's when we concluded it's something that cannot be avoided.
>>
>>98088010
There is a new anon failing at airbrushing on cheap shit once a thread
>>
>>98088118
>there is nothing I can do to prevent that
Akchually, yes, there is. Not using acrylics, but spraying lacquers instead. But again, that's a whole another can of worms with it's own challenges.
>I'm doing exactly that, it won't prevent paint from accumulating inside the nozzle.
Does this prevents you from using the airbrush in any way, in a workflow I mentioned (+one final deep clean at the end of the session)? If yes, then you are a truly unique case with a problem that no one seemingly ever heard about. If not, why even create these complex scenarios about cleaning the thing?
>>
>>98088175
>But again, that's a whole another can of worms with it's own challenges
Starting with fumes I have no reasonable way to dispose of, which is exactly the reason why I use acrylics (which only requires cardboard and anti-dust mask).

>does this prevents you...
Well, yeah - paint buildup finally jams the nozzle and prevent spraying.
>>
>>98088254
>Well, yeah - paint buildup finally jams the nozzle and prevent spraying.
There will be no buildup if you clean your needle often enough.
>>
File: da problem.jpg (47 KB, 768x416)
47 KB JPG
>>98088274
As I said before, the tip is either clean or being cleaned often. Maybe this illustration will make it clear.
>>
>>98087970
>I would never ask a noob to spend 200+ dollars on 'starter' hardware.
lmao that's funny. don't look up how much a "cheap" lathe costs.
>>
>>98088306
are you thinning your paint enough?
>>
>>98088326
I guess so, 1:1 or 3:2, more than that and it's basically just colored thinner.
>>
>>98088306
If you are thinning your paints properly, have normal paints, normal thinner/flow improver (no faulty batch), then this is not supposed to happen in a way that it would lead to clogging. Airbrushing for hours with multiple color changes is normal without this ever happening. Just yesterday, I sprayed for three hours straight, with eight color changes. No problems.

Just to make sure:
>thin your paints properly, make sure you don't have bad batch of either the paints or secondaries
>first flow improver and thinner, then then paint
>use correct trigger technique (air on, paint on, paint off, air off)
>clean the paint from your needle CONSTANTLY and COMPULSIVELY, even the smallest amounts. Use cleaner, not water.
>when spraying details, use extra thinner & flow improver (1 paint : 5+ flow improver/thinner is normal) and occasionally blast it on full
>make sure your compressor is in good working order, gives constant pressure, there's no water in the moisture trap, and you are using enough PSI
>>
File: 20260522_145630.jpg (2.53 MB, 6238x2586)
2.53 MB JPG
More work on the lads, nearing completion now. Need a banner next, then the scenic base of dead nids when that arrives.

Holding off doing the gold because it's a pain in the arse but I guess it's gotta happen sometime.
>>
>>98087970
>mid range
>cheap shit beginner
The problem with this mentality is that buying cheap shit is not actually cheap.
Once you figure out why cheap shit is shit and go buy a proper tool, you've only added $150-$200 onto the price of that tool. The actual "cheap" option is to just buy the decent tool to start with.
Buying cheap crap that breaks is a poorfag trap, you save more money by purchasing quality. Just don't also fall into the frap of thinking cost equals quality, do your homework and buy a proven tool.
>>
File: infernal-master_1.jpg (848 KB, 1100x1100)
848 KB JPG
>>98088043
Yeah, I thin my metallics like everything else. I know some people don't do that but I feel like they apply smoother that way. You'll probably need 2 coats of retributor for good coverage.
>>
>>98088434
NTA but it depends on the tool. £25 paint brushes are fantastic but a beginner will just trash them.

Also depends on longevity, I spend about £50 a year on miniatures so a £300 3D printer isn't worth it for me because I'll never make that cost back over the lifetime of the printer.

Diminishing returns are also a factor: I have a £10 hammer instead of a £50 arbor press and it works just fine for the small amount of leather work I do. A £400 washing machine with a 10 year guarantee is probably better value than the £1500 one with a 15 year guarantee.
>>
>>98088477
NTA, but it's all connected; if you enjoy airbrushing, you will airbrush more. The enjoyment of the process is also connected to the quality of the tool in this case. Buy shit airbrush, and there's a solid chance you'll rightfully hate the experience. It's quite similar with many crafts.
>>
>>98088429
That's a very clean paintjob but the cloth is a bit lackluster especially since it reads the same colour and texture as the blue trim of the armour
>>
>>98087327
The defenders of the Alpo planet don't stand a chance!
>>
>>98088347
yeah but did you actually try thinning it more to see if it would not clog?
>>
>>98088600
I did, it only resulted in "paint" flowing around the surface like water.
>>
>>98088522
Good shout, generally I do the power weapons green for these guys but they're blue in space marine 2. I'll have a bash at texturing the cloth, it's going to get dirt and blood applied which should break it up a bit.
>>
File: 20260522_113016.jpg (2.55 MB, 2922x2922)
2.55 MB JPG
one must imagine sisyphus batch painting
>>
>>98088466
Cheers, definitely feels better now.



[Advertise on 4chan]

Delete Post: [File Only] Style:
[Disable Mobile View / Use Desktop Site]

[Enable Mobile View / Use Mobile Site]

All trademarks and copyrights on this page are owned by their respective parties. Images uploaded are the responsibility of the Poster. Comments are owned by the Poster.