[a / b / c / d / e / f / g / gif / h / hr / k / m / o / p / s / t / u / v / vg / vm / vmg / vr / vrpg / vst / w / wg] [i / ic] [r9k / s4s / vip] [cm / hm / lgbt / y] [3 / aco / adv / an / bant / biz / cgl / ck / co / diy / fa / fit / gd / hc / his / int / jp / lit / mlp / mu / n / news / out / po / pol / pw / qst / sci / soc / sp / tg / toy / trv / tv / vp / vt / wsg / wsr / x / xs] [Settings] [Search] [Mobile] [Home]
Board
Settings Mobile Home
/tg/ - Traditional Games

Name
Spoiler?[]
Options
Comment
Verification
4chan Pass users can bypass this verification. [Learn More] [Login]
File[]
  • Please read the Rules and FAQ before posting.
  • Roll dice with "dice+numberdfaces" in the options field (without quotes).

08/21/20New boards added: /vrpg/, /vmg/, /vst/ and /vm/
05/04/17New trial board added: /bant/ - International/Random
10/04/16New board for 4chan Pass users: /vip/ - Very Important Posts
[Hide] [Show All]


Janitor acceptance emails will be sent out over the coming weeks. Make sure to check your spam folder!


[Advertise on 4chan]


File: Brother_craig.png (115 KB, 433x422)
115 KB PNG
Brother Craig edition

>Full-on /WIP/ OP Links Pastebin:
https://pastebin.com/BE42AEcD

>WIP Tutorial Images Mega
https://mega.nz/#F!TvQFCaLb!w8WZKCcOsTRasxrI0JWezw

>Saint Duncan's "Six Things I Wish I Knew When I Started Painting"
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ufP8ka3KGno

>Saint Duncan also explains thinning your paints
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wxWgsqSf74s

>Paint thinning 102
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sBDVPoNXyVI

>4 EASY Chipping Tricks For Beginners
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ku4comhKHJM

>Decal Like a Pro
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SYKLiEW7p9c

>How to Edge Highlight
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KoRbYuAfbEk

>How to use contrast style paints
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IhholrozptI

>How to Paint with Tremors
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oqp76vAJu9g

>Airbrush Priming and Thinning
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jkntrSBvXxE
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IGjBQzoukFg
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=00JVUxABe44
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AEqT_R41JX8

>To get together on a Saturday
>To take some time, come down your way
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X7CjYuNrlVY

>Who's Johnny, she'd say, and smile in her special way
https://1d6chan.miraheze.org/wiki/Johnny

Previous threads:
>>98391138
>>98382495
>>98367269
>>
File: huntmaster.jpg (524 KB, 1701x1701)
524 KB JPG
>>98407548
Nearly done with this guy, gonna put a pin on him for now and get some work done on the next one. How does he look?
>>
>>98406788
thank you anon
2nd edition dude is resin but all his bandmates are all metal and hopefully soon ready to rock
>>
An online vendor is having a flash sale of armypainter paints.
How are the metallics? Those interested me the most. I do have their washes and I like those with speedpaint medium.
>>
>no collage
aaaaaaaaaah niggerman save meeeee aieeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee
>>
>>98407656
Old ones? Stay away.

>>98407667
This unironically.
>>
File: IMG_20260726_101925.jpg (2.23 MB, 3750x2094)
2.23 MB JPG
>>98407579

I think he looks good, nice, clean paintjob.

Last evening I had yet another idea for the head. I had a glob of green stuff inside three kite shields to make the conical shape.

Which of these designs look the best to you?
>>
>>98407680
Right
Because the head looks the cleanest
>>
File: IMG_20260726_104817.jpg (2.3 MB, 4000x1784)
2.3 MB JPG
>>98407695

You're right. It is the cleanest. Should have thought of this method first.
>>
>>98407712
what are they and will they have eyes
>>
>>98407719

Some sort of eyeless techno demons. Inspired by the trench crusade war wolf (loved the design, but heard there were resin traps in the stl). I don't play TC, so these can be used for OPR, dragon rampant, hobgoblin, kings of war, maybe even AoS.
>>
File: IMG_3413.jpg (1.57 MB, 4032x3024)
1.57 MB JPG
Im over here painting my minis
I got paint on my pallet
Im locked in as fuck!
Im a hobby nerd man!
>>
doing a pink undershade before painting yellow contrast paint is black fucking magic
>>
>>98407773
based
>>
>>98407773
very nice keep it up
im not too good at this painting thing myself that you all seem to be so fond of
>>
File: 20260726_201411.jpg (2.76 MB, 3000x3622)
2.76 MB JPG
Beginning work on Rangar.
Impressed with the design of this model, hasn't been a god awful part to paint and it sub assembles well.
>>
>>98407656
>armypainter paints.
>How are the metallics?
bad
>>
Whats a good equivalent for AP Purple Swarm (speedpaint), preferably vallejo (or AK )
>>
File: IMG_1043.jpg (1009 KB, 3986x2119)
1009 KB JPG
dogs
>>
File: 20260726_142352.jpg (947 KB, 1678x1398)
947 KB JPG
just look at this happy little guy with his silly little green sword
i wish i had 10 of these it was so fun to paint
>>
File: riders.jpg (325 KB, 2092x1973)
325 KB JPG
>>98408048
oragne
>>
>>98408048
Very flat looking, they would probably benefit from some kind of markings, stripes, or colour variation
>>
File: 1000007214.jpg (1.28 MB, 2296x4080)
1.28 MB JPG
Painted my first dino man. Going for a sort of phyrexian color. I think he came out ok but I dont love the red. Shield looks good though I think.
>>
File: 1000007215.jpg (1.21 MB, 2296x4080)
1.21 MB JPG
>>98408091
>>
>>98408079
think it's a limitation of my lighting setup that makes my models look flatter than they really are 2bh. i think it's why a lotta people think i just basecoat my models. i should probably invest in a ring light
there's a lot more shading and depth to them irl
>>
>>98408091
>>98408095
Gotta get your basecoats down a bit better, They are patchy. the red and white do work pretty well.
>>
>>98408106
It's the dust effect you put on them and lack of detail on the eyes that make them look flat. I can see the blended transition.
>>
>>98408108
Ya I swear white is always like this. I gotta figure it out better.
>>
>>98408115
white is an ass of an colour to deal with. But I also noticed it with your red around the feet.
>>
>>98408115
It's much easier to paint white over a light grey/tan basecoat, don't just go straight to pure white.
>>
>>98408121
Ya I did do a grey layer but I think I needed another layer.
>>
>>98408115
use a lighter primer
>>
>>98408091
you chose pretty hard color for beginner because painting white is not easy even for seasoned painter
>>
File: saintduncdrinks.jpg (6 KB, 310x163)
6 KB JPG
>>98408124
two thin coats, all the way
check out some of the videos pinned in the OP, there's some good stuff for beginners in there
>>
>>98407680
They all look like they're doing interpretive dance.
>>
>>98408131
>>98408133
Another issue I was having is this guy is smaller than a space marine despite this supposedly being a giant murdermachine dino so getting to the arm scales or the under his legs was pretty brutal. Tiny details on a tiny model in a weird place to get to. I suppose I can just paint that the same color as the surronding. Theres gonna be 20 of these things on tabletop so whos checking his under thigh.
>>
>>98408091
Literally any off white has better coverage than pure white. Save the latter for spot highlights.
>>
>>98408048
>that color scheme
Looks like Kroot Pluto.
>>
File: Untitled1.jpg (549 KB, 1276x1783)
549 KB JPG
>>98407548
Done painting my latest kitbash
>>
File: genolictor 3.jpg (366 KB, 3000x4000)
366 KB JPG
>You.
>Obey.
Genolictor continued.
>>
>>98408381
flower knight looks like he's elegantly flipping the bird up there.
>>
>>98408335
i like it
do you ever batch paint anything and when did you decide to be solely showpiece painter
>>
>>98408381
the perfect organism
>>
File: genolictor 4.jpg (305 KB, 3000x4000)
305 KB JPG
>>98408702
It honestly turned out this good by accident, I was mostly trying for a natural pose with the arms that still gave me access to the head while painting, but the right arm sank a bit during the set, and it turned out to be a very "you are under my mental command" sort of thing, at perfect head height.
It's not even technically a kitbash, since the extra arms came with the lictor kit for a different pose, I just nipped the biceps off and glued them onto the little stalk-biceps the scything talons connect to.
A little bit of army painter green stuff to cover up the join, not very pretty but it serves, and we have our blessed Patriarch of the Esoteric Order of Ymgarl.
>>
File: genolictor 5.jpg (415 KB, 3000x4000)
415 KB JPG
>>98408915
>>
>>98408919
>missed the nip on the back shell
AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAARGH
>>
File: 1753987619792935.png (12 KB, 244x128)
12 KB PNG
>my girlfriend gave me a set of 6 cute catfolk DND minis for Christmas 2 years ago
>they are still unpainted in their original display packaging
>>
>>98409050
I remember you posting about this already, either start painting them or shut the fuck up
>>
File: khat.gif (17 KB, 220x238)
17 KB GIF
>>98408919
>that nip on the back shell
>>
>>98407671
>>98407953
So fanatic’s metallics are fine or not? I’ve been using Ak 3rd gen metallics and was interested in some “fantasy toned metallics.”
As odd as it is I don’t like when paints come preloaded so what’s the best method to remove the balls? I’m thinking of buying droppers for it.

One last thing I’ve looked at the quickshade dips and according to searches they are wood stains. Is there a better dark tone alternative wood stain that hopefully dries and cures faster than ap darktone? I’m curious to know if anybody here still does that old school shading technique or if acrylic washes made “old school rare” now.
>>
>>98409055
Last time I posted about it must've been like a year ago LMAO, I genuinely don't even remember myself. Crazy you remember it though.
>>
>>98409060
I remember that too. Paint your backlog. Gifts move to the front of the line.
>>
>>98408064
He cute
>>98408075
What rhymes with orange?
>>98408091
Looks great!
>>98408335
Great sword and cloth, freehand too
>>98409050
Paint the cat people or real kittens might die in their sleep.
>>
>>98409057
They're good, best I've used other than proacryl's
>>
>>98409106
How are ap metallics compared to two thin coats that form what I understand mimic the gw metallics?
Are so metallics close enough so I can save some money instead of ttc?
>>
File: genolictor 6.jpg (540 KB, 3000x4000)
540 KB JPG
cleaned that nip, thought you can't see it here, added some more green and cleaned up the drybrushing on the fingers
>>
>>98409119
They're about the same, ttc might be a bit better but I've only used TTC's spartan bronze so I don't have a wide comparison
new fanatic paints have good fineness to the flakes so they're not glittery and they have decent coverage, I use their true brass for chaos trim and rarely need a second coat for full coverage
>>
I think even average metallic paint job still look better than NMM, NMM is so cringe and gay
>>
Here come the fucking eyes. God i hate it so much, should have do the eyes first before the face
>>
Got a quite specific question. I was building my first gyrocopter this morning and while the body was nice, the propeller was a nightmare and the booklet didn't help at all. Has anyone used a different approach while building the propeller so that the axis looks straight?
>>
>>98409154
I would call those eyes "pale silver" and never touch them again, as is
>>
>>98409154
Use sharpened toothpick
>>
>>98409154
Almost looks like she's blind on the other eye, I would honestly just roll with it.
>>
>>98409154
Man I fucking wish I could paint even close to that level
>>
File: 5.gif (208 KB, 498x281)
208 KB GIF
>>98409154
This is some fantastic work anon, the colors are lovely and I really like how you did the feathers and her skin.
>>98409121
It's really cool how you used drybrushing to your advantage here, the grey carapace looks almost like stone or something.
>>98408335
Impressive as always, those bright power nodes provide such nice contrast.
>>98408095
Red and white work really nice together actually. As other anons mentioned, do a grey or a blue-grey as your basecoat for white and use actual whites/off-whites for highlights. Lizard scales lend themselves really well to drybrushing so I'd recommend you try that out sometime.
>>98408048
Lovely yellow-orange, the volumetric highlights look very nice though I do think you could've went with a darker orange for the shadows.
>>98408064
That mini does indeed look very fun to paint, I like how you did the red and that pale purple-ish tongue.
>>
File: ork.jpg (689 KB, 2394x1143)
689 KB JPG
Ork wip
>>
File: brood commander 1.jpg (330 KB, 3000x4000)
330 KB JPG
>>98409324
thank you!
the shell is equal parts liberator gold and thunderhawk blue, also being used here for the brood bros flak armor
>>
File: free flock.png (3.67 MB, 1380x2064)
3.67 MB PNG
Can some primers just be cooked? I bought a Mephiston Red to prime some Tau and tried on a warm day and got flock, assume my bad and simply too warm, next week try at dawn when its like 16 degrees, same again, now i tried again and its 19 degrees, has just rained, i shook the can for 2 minutes and checked its temperature was in the green zone.

Still i get a model like this i gotta strip.

Ive had a couple bad Corax Whites in the past but never any other colour though its my first time using the red gw primer, can that also be shitty?
>>
>>98409474
brush on primer doesn't do that no matter what the weather is like outside.
>>
>>98409474
i haven't been impressed with spray can primers. seems like it's even more finicky than airbrush primers
>>
>>98409474
bro bought spray on 60 grit sandpaper lmao
>>
>>98409474
depending on the primer it can be very important to shake that motherfucker for as long as possible before spraying

distance, angle, and making sure you're moving while spraying, to ensure you're getting maximum coverage in as few sprays as possible, but mostly SHAKE THAT CAN.
>>
>>98409474
it having just rained would be bad. The moisture in the air would be hit by the spray and make the surface bobbly like that. I've done that. Leaving it in hot sun would make it crackle, especially if applied too thick- I've done that. It's very temperamental. If the clouds are grey I won't spray since I expect rain and moisture. And I try to leave it in my bathroom to dry with the window open so it's not too cold/ the temperature doesn't fluctuate too much and cause cracking. now I just apply it rather thinly on the raised areas so not much can go wrong and then just paint anything missed black myself.
>>
>>98409474
always shake your rattlecans upside down for 5+ minutes before using them, especially the first time after buying you could even go longer
Get a cheap thermometer that has a humidity reader, don't try to spray if it's above 60% humidity
And finally get a costco bulk box of plastic spoons and use a couple to see how your spray is behaving before hitting your models so you can avoid having to strip them if the spray conditions are bad like in your pic
>>
>>98409474
niggas would just do anything instead of using mr surfacer 1500 (canned magic btw) and/or buying an airbrush
>>
>>98408145

The models have goofy poses, which are mostly masked by the cloaks they are supposed to wear.
>>
>>98409599
mr surfacer is expensive as hell and hard to source in the two biggest hobbying continents
and airbrush/brush-on primer rubs off with a wrong look
>>
>>98409605
Are you seriously not varnishing your minis after painting them? No quality of paint is immune to degradation from handling bud.
>>
>>98409638
you're the type of retard who wonders why his models have paint rubbing away when he's handling them as he paints
>>
>>98409605
>airbrush/brush-on primer rubs off with a wrong look
not mr surfacer thougheverbeit :^)
people really love the "waah waah too expensive" excuse when it comes to supplies conveniently ignoring the fact that they drop hundreds of dollars on models on the regular (not you historical 'tists, you aight)
>hard to source
now that's a new one lmoa
>>
>>98409679
>you waste money so waste even more money!!!
no
>i-it's not hard to source
no hobbyshops in NA carry it, hardly any in yurope do either, you're left with ordering online and waiting weeks for it to get imported
>>
You all sound like fairies, just use cheap hardware store primer.

Simple as
>>
>>98409751
Ntab nigga you're probably buying gw minis so you're paying for some of the most overpriced plastic on earth, trying to save a couple bucks by using dogshit supplies is just stingy and retarded.
>hardly any in yurope do either, you're left with ordering online and waiting weeks for it to get imported
I'm in eastern EU and at least a couple online hobby shops always have most of mr hobby shit in stock and I can get it in 2 days. I can hardly believe that's not the case in the rest of EU or NA
>>
>>98408550
Yeah I batch painted some scouts a few months ago, but I'm not fond of that

I just enjoy the process more when painting one at a time, especially for models I like

>>98409083
>>98409324
Much appreciated

>>98408963
It's over. strip it all
>>
>>98409764
post minis
>>
>>98409647
you hold the mini by the base when you paint it, dumbass.
>>
>>98409809
You've never painted a model in your life, thanks for admitting that
>>
I'm considering getting into Kingdom Death for hobby painting. I don't have an airbrush and I don't plan on investing in one as I don't paint enough to feel the need for one.
I'm thinking on going with purple and yellow primers to do a zenithal and getting base coats over that with citadel's contrast paints. I'm just curious if that is an awful starting point for painting these minis?
>>
>>98409814
nice projection
>>
>>98409843
stay in /40kg/
>>
>>98409751
>so waste even more money!!!
mr surfacer costs 10-11 bucks and for the price of that shitass mephiston red can you could’ve gotten 2 cans of mr surfacer which would actually net you more primer and you wouldnt have to strip the model and throw the can into the garbage (where it belongs)
You’d literally be wasting LESS money
>no hobbyshops in NA carry it
Nigger you can literally find it in hobby lobby/hobby town, try a bit harder next time
>>
>>98409846
you must hang out there a lot for it to be this omnipresent in your mind.
>>
>>98409816
Yes it is an awful idea
zenithal with rattlecans doesnt work as rattlecans dont atomize paint anywhere fine enough to create a smooth transition
>>
>>98409881
Welp, so much for that idea. I can do it traditionally, I was just looking for a shortcut.
>>
>>98409816
the only can primer I trust is citadel chaos black
>>
>>98409800
post primer
>>
>>98409862
Or you could not be a retard and buy a can of colour forge for half the price of that tiny ass mr surfacer can
>>
>>98409903
You could just do it the slopchop way instead if you are able to minimize building texture while drybrushing
>>
Question. I'm looking to make/find a lion hide bit to use as a banner (basically a lion skin on a stick, maybe waving in the wind), but I cannot find anything like this. Any ideas. And if not, is there a way to sculpt something like this?
>>
>>98409935
Or with a sponge even
>>
As far as color choices for blacks, is abbaddon black generally a versatile shade of black? Or do you know need other "blacks"?
>>
>>98409935
I could always pick up some make up brushes and go that route.
>>
>>98409970
The old High Elf chariot had half a lion head and a pelt cape that could pretty easily be combined together to make a full pelt for a banner.
>>
File: 1000015982.jpg (698 KB, 4000x1800)
698 KB JPG
Painting Lizardmen, and I accidentally put Emerald paint on the canvas instead of Turquoise (What I have been using to paint the external scales on my saurus warriors, example is the right one on the picture), and to not waste the paint, used it to test it.
What do you prefer? Emerald or Turquoise?
>>
>>98409638
how many times do we have to have this discussion? if your paint is falling off it's because of bad surface prep, not because you didn't "varnish" it.
>>
>>98410063
You got BTFO every time you bring this up
But go on and throw a fit about how you totally need to wash modern plastic kits because you think they still have mold release on them and aren't being washed before packaging again, it's always good for a laugh
>>
>>98410063
your reading comprehension is low, eh?
I'm telling anon that his bullshit complaint about brush on primer is a non-point because anyone who is actually playing with their minis is clear coating them when the painting is done.
So even IF his complaint were a real thing, it'd still be a nonissue.
>>
>schizos in even /wip/
Man what the fuck happened to this board.
>>
>>98410079
Oh you're just seething because somebody insulted your inferior product that you're weirdly attached to, got it
>>
>>98410063
>>98410075
You both have points, not all paints are the same, not all of them react the same to skin oils, just as not everyone produces the same amount of those oils

ultimately just dont let the cheeto fingers sweaty neckbeard touch your army and you'll be fine varnish or not
>>
>>98410095
>inferior
I've never had to wait for weather and I've never had a primed mini look like it was rolled in cat litter.
>>
>>98410082
I have no idea. It wasn't this bad just a couple months ago.
>>
>>98410075
oh yeah I was "btfo" by some sloptuber called "goobertown." are you certain that mohammed and pratik in the gw factory are wearing gloves when they pack the sprues into the box? were you wearing gloves when you took them out and cut the parts off?

>>98410079
clear coat won't fix bad surface prep. whether you "varnish" or not literally has zero effect on whether your paint is going to flake off or not.
>>
>>98410114
And you take 5 times as long for a weaker undercoat, you sure showed everybody there!
>>
>>98410118
Yes thank you for showing you're the same retard as every other time you've had this fit lmao
>>
>>98410116
>a couple months ago
I remember way more outrageous trolling during spring, this at least is just two autists babbling about varnishes.
>>
>>98409083
>What rhymes with orange?
Door hinge.
>>
>>98410116
it's summer
>>
File: 20260726_185815.jpg (570 KB, 4000x2250)
570 KB JPG
>>98410323
a pirate i was meant to be...

also this is a bit of a general tabletop wargaming question alongside a /wip/ question, but how do you guys secure terrain pieces to a board that are liable to fall over if they're kinda thin? bluetack or something?
>>
>>98410417
Small screws. If hollow, put a small bit of wood inside and screw though the plastic into the wood.

..trim the sails and roam the sea!
>>
>>98409605
>mr surfacer is expensive as hell
wasting your time stripping minis and being relegated to only priming when the weather is perfect is much more costly than paying a little extra for primer. it's also only slightly more expensive than rustoleum and cheaper than many hobby paint brand cans on amazon
>and airbrush/brush-on primer rubs off with a wrong look
not if it's lacquer. when will you people learn?
>>
>>98410417
>>98410431
i don't think he meant permanently, just for the game

i would add a bit at a 90deg angle somewhere, another piece of wall, rubble, a log or beam, watever fits the theme
>>
>>98410417
don't people usually put a base on the terrain?
>>
>>98410499
correct yeah, this terrain in particular is for a game that has modular terrain so it being moveable between games is ideal
>>
File: IMG_4937.jpg (265 KB, 2880x2160)
265 KB JPG
Another ork test model for tonight, thanks to the anon who shared their recipe in the other thread worked like a charm. Naggaroth night undercoat, castellan green base coat and moot green highlight if you’re wondering.

Overall very happy with the direction things are heading in with the green and yellow in particular.
>>
>>98410510
That just looks terrible.
>>
>>98410499
I meant screw it to a base, not the table.
>>
What autisms do you have about miniature painting related stuff?
For me it is paints pre-loaded with agitators.
Glass ones are too light most of the time and I'm not sure if stainless steel agitators are on a time limit or if they are truly trustworthy, and there is always a chance of a dud-ball that will rust and ruin the paint.
Miniature hobbyists should decide if they want their paints to have agitators. It is why I like Ak, Vallejo, and Citadel for as far as I know not having agitators in their paints.
I've considered buying dropper bottles and funnels to empty the paints into, then remove the agitators then put the paint back in.
>>
>>98410805
I have many autisms and I shall keep them to myself lest I start arguments I can't explain or care about (I started to write a paragraph)
>>
>>98410805
I hate how companies selling paint have troll names for metallic colors, like "rusty gold" or when something is clearly copper but they call it bronze or brass.
>>
>>98410805
This question is like asking for political opinions at thanksgiving dinner with extended relatives you only see every 2 or 3 years.
>>
>>98410805
I don't like how mini painters paint every single flame to look super sooty with black tips and volumes.
Real smokestack (and some flamethrower) flames do look like that, but people are doing it on candles, braziers, and other shit that doesn't produce nearly enough soot to have black plumes coming off of it.
Most people don't know either how to make it look good, or how to make it look realistic, so in most situations it's unrealistic and it looks rubbish. Only like 1% of models I see with this style of fire actually look both realistic and visually appealing to my eye.
>>
>>98410921
Yeah, you're bound to either get non-answers that don't tell you anything, or majorly autistic rants that start arguments.
>>
>>98410842
>lest I start arguments I can't explain or care about
This happened to me way too many times.
>>98410883
I hate that so much.
>clearly copper but call it bronze or brass
ArmyPainter won with the "true brass" paint on this one.
But really I always thought mixing some silver with gold or bronze at a 50/50 mix helps make a good brass color.
>>98410928
Glad I never tried painting fire yet to press your autism buttons like pre-loaded mixing balls in paints press mine.
What's the best fire painting tutorial for complete beginners?
>>98410921
This hasn't happened yet.
Yet.
>>
>>98410805
i'd recently developed the habit of sub painting every single model. I know you can't see the color of the armor behind his gun, but I keep doing it for some reason.
>>
>>98410928
I think most people don't think about realism at all, or they do but only in the sense of "this sloptube video said this is more realistic so I'm just going to believe it and copy the scheme for everything." another big culprit is rainbow colors on heat shields. you also see a lot of color schemes that don't really make sense from a realism perspective with things like unfinished metal on military hardware or combining bronze and iron armor on fantasy characters.

I don't think most people approach miniature painting from the angle of "what is this supposed to look like if it was real and how do I paint it to look that way?" but more like "what colors go well together that will make this look well composed artistically?" I guess it's a fair approach to take, but I wish there were more people taking the other path.
>>
>>98410805
I gotta figure out what the thread sizes of pro acryl bottles are from their droppers to their larger bottles.
Flip tops may have good seal quality but sometimes they get loose so the seal isn't perfect.
I also got calipers to measure the thread necks of my daler rowney inks because I couldn't find a definitive answer when searching for answers online somehow.
I swear the internet has become worse for researching and looking up things.
Especially relating to miniature painting stuff.
>>
File: IMG_1910.jpg (467 KB, 2880x2160)
467 KB JPG
does this look like mossy ruins to you guys?
>>
>>98408335
Really wish gw started promoting marines in this style, great work
>>
>>98410960
>What's the best fire painting tutorial for complete beginners?
Depends on whether you own an airbrush or not. If you do own one, you can use a white basecoat, then start with a fluorescent yellow, then fluorescent orange, and finish with a darker red. Keep in mind that fire is obviously hotter in the middle, and the white and yellow are your "hottest" colours.
If you don't own an airbrush, don't bother with fluoro paints, just layer on normal yellows and oranges up to reds.
Billowing smoke can be anywhere from a grey to a black, but the actual wisps of fire themselves should finish at red.
>>
>>98411037(me)
>in the middle
*the middle as in the source of the flame, obviously not halfway up.
>>
>>98411037
Thanks!
How's this tutorial for beginners?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yI4T_mS6Ut8
I plan to use close enough looking alterantives to GW's contrast paints but I think it will still work.
>>
>>98411031
unfortunately just looks like a green drybrush on black atm. I don't believe in the black, is it the surface of mars? I'd paint the ground first and then maybe try mixing green with filler paste (or some like model train balast, anything to get a different texture) or using small pieces of ripped up sponge painted green to make a texture that looks and feels like moss.
Just google moss covered terrain and you see that they always use some kind of flock. In some of my old models I had some model train bushes or something that I ripped the green fluff off and that looked like good moss in cracks and crevices.
>>
>>98411048
This tutorial is the total opposite of everything I just said. I'm honestly kind of insulted.
Your tabletop opponents would be happy to see you paint like this.
>>
>getting back into the hobby since covid
Old paints don't randomly grow mold right? I got a few opened and unopened paints and they seem ok on the surface but not sure beyond that. They're citadel paints if that matters.
>>
>>98411163
How old we talking? Even if they're like 5-6 years old you can generally just use a stainless steel ball to mix your paints.
>>
>>98410996
I don't mind it when people think about composition and artistry first, but most people painting fire this way don't know how to make it look good, and so many of the people I see pushing this style use realism as their reasoning to keep doing it.
I actually often don't mind when I see rainbow heatshields, since most people I see using that technique are doing it to add spot colours and visual interest (though I've definitely seen some examples where it has looked pretty silly), whereas adding black tips to flames makes them look worse in 99% of cases.
>>
>>98411172
6 to 8 years ago.
>>
>>98410625
The skin of the guy on the left looks cool. The purple lip is a nice touch. I should remember to paint my ork's lips that way too. Make a model at least 15% more appealing.
The yellows are great too!
>>
>>98411086
>I'm honestly kind of insulted.
I'm sorry anon. I didn't know this would piss you off. I did say "beginners" because I was looking for something even an idiot could do.
I've never painted fire.
>Your tabletop opponents would be happy to see you paint like this.
They would be happy to see any paint at all. But I get what you mean.
I'm sorry about what I said. I know this place is generally chill, but we have our moments. I didn't mean to start anything.
I do like short video tutorials on painting to get things done because years of Lego instruction and a bit of Lego assembly slideshow videos have conditioned me to follow instructions for miniature painting.
>>
Got my Intercessors primed so I can paint them this week.
>>
>>98411230
I wish you all the best, anon.
>>
>>98411197
Should be usable, if not then you can try to revive them with a bit of water.
>>
File: IMG_3782.jpg (3.46 MB, 4032x3024)
3.46 MB JPG
Back in bibness
>>
>>98411242
Ok. Thank you.
>>
File: eye tutorial.jpg (48 KB, 540x540)
48 KB JPG
>>98411217
I honestly suggest not trying to follow full tutorials for the most part.
I find most tutorials to be pretty bad, but you would not be able to tell if a tutorial is bad or not, and will likely just keep doing whatever the tutorial tells you to do.
There are some tutorials I think are very helpful, but they are few and far between. Picrel is one of them.
>>
>>98409341
Great base and the red is rocking
>>
>>98409474
Too far away from the model probably, if air hot or dry you have to be a little closer and pass more quickly across the model using less paint to prevent running at that shorter distance.
>>
>>98411310
>I find most tutorials to be pretty bad.
I relate anon. Way too much.
>but you would not be able to tell if a tutorial is bad or not, and will likely just keep doing whatever the tutorial tells you to do.
I generally check if the tutorial is less than 10 minutes long to ensure it isn't dumb clickbait for youtube money. That's my biggest filter.
I still have that Lego instruction conditioning. Maybe when I get my printer working after ventilation setup I will be more bold with disposable minis.
>There are some tutorials I think are very helpful, but they are few and far between.
>Picrel is one of them.
I can see why as it is as it is one image and communicates the steps beautifully without words.
Where does one find these specifically good tutorials anyways?
What's you're criteria of a good tutorial to an amazing tutorial so hopefully I can learn from you?

I'm still hurting from having apparently angered you. Weirdly enough I manage to piss people off when I try to be polite or without trying. I don't know how I do it.
>>
File: images.jpg (21 KB, 447x447)
21 KB JPG
Asked in /hwg/ and /grog/ and I'll ask here as well.
How are AP quickshade dips compared to a close approximate in Canada if a good one is available to easily get in leafland?
How good are woodstains if the quickshade dip is a woodstain in the current year for getting lots of minis painted fast? And will the cheap orange nylon brushes be good enough to use and spread the stuff over the models that don't fit the tin? The square flat nylon brushes won't flick the stuff everywhere and the round brushes will be fine? I don't recall seeing proper small sized brushes for miniatures at the dollar store near me, but I might have to check again.
>>
>>98411366
I wasn't particularly angry, just a little annoyed, and I'm usually a pretty mellow person so I can get over that kind of thing quickly, so don't worry about it.
The best tutorials are ones that laser focus on single techniques and make no mention of specific colours or brands. Tutorials that go step-by-step, paint-by-paint, colour-by-colour are usually made to sell you those same colours or pandering to the lowest common denominator (with some exceptions, of course). Whereas a video on glazing, edge-highlighting, or cleaning an airbrush (etc) is usually made to teach you, first and foremost, and will be generally useful for your whole painting career.
What you should take away from a good tutorial is not necessarily a set of strict instructions, but instead an understanding of the principles being applied. For example: most surfaces are brightest on the edges and darkest in the recesses, except for light sources (like fire), which are instead brightest in the centre/recesses. Contrast paints would not be my first choice for painting light sources, because they're designed to darken the recesses in most cases.
>>
How long will it be until the acrylic washes from the John Blanche 3 and 4 sets become available separately? I consoom product meme'd for the first two because Blanche deserves royalty. Not sure about this one. Just want the washes.
>>
>>98411421
>because Blanche deserves royalty
genq, where do the royalties from those paint sets go now that Blanche is dead? Does his estate get them?
>>
File: IMG_1911.jpg (1.64 MB, 2160x2880)
1.64 MB JPG
>>98411080
tested with some random foam I had laying around and it does look much better
but I'm having trouble gluing it down quickly with just pva
>>
>>98411429
Me.
>>
File: notes.gif (573 KB, 128x128)
573 KB GIF
>>98411432
Curious
>>
>>98411431
It might be really annoying to paint it all at once. And to pick out each bit of moss you want with paint. I'd apply the moss/ paint patches of moss like how you'd paint weathering/rust. Do it after you've painted the thing with big brushes and whatever. Look at inspiration images to copy from.
>>
>>98411431
Using milk crates for your terrain is a really ingenious idea, anon.
>>
>>98411373
As long as the hairs don't come out and the brush is soft enough to not lift or scrape previous layers of paint off you can use any brush. The soft synthetic are fine just use a light touch but you can get good mminiature brushes through amazon. Army painter sells decent beginner sets
>>
>>98411442
I mean like it'd be annoying to manipulate the terrain in your hands to paint the moss and not get green on the terrain. Paint it before sticking it down to an already finished but mossless terrain piece
>>
>>98411366
Good tutorial channel includes vince ventruella and https://www.youtube.com/@BrushstrokePaintingGuides
>>
File: Castellan.jpg (645 KB, 3218x2148)
645 KB JPG
>>98407548
Remember brothers, we progress step by step. These two minis were painted 2 years apart. If a reprobate like me can improve, so can you.
>>
File: IMG_1912.jpg (458 KB, 2880x2160)
458 KB JPG
>>98411442
>>98411487
yeah I figured out you can just dunk the tiny foam bits into a watered down pva mixed with green paint and it works decently
green foam would've just been better and I'll know for the other three I still have to do

>>98411447
thanks, I like how much depth it gives when you put facades on em
>>
>>98411520
It just looks like you forgot to wipe away the streaking grime on the left one.
>>
File: 30kjumpyboys.jpg (1.39 MB, 2880x2160)
1.39 MB JPG
30k Emperors Children army I've been working on, trying to get as much done between work and before my fall semester starts

Finished these jumpy boys today.
>>
File: brood bro wip 01.jpg (303 KB, 3000x4000)
303 KB JPG
Brood Bro with a plasma, I'm hoping posting earlier stages in the process will help me focus in on the mold lines and nips.
>>98411610
these are fantastic.
>>
File: brood bro wip 02.jpg (317 KB, 3000x4000)
317 KB JPG
>>98411659
Gunner Mack just fired this thing for the first time, and is about to eat shit in front of all the other brood brothers and sisters when the explosion makes him drop to his ass.
The shot will kill half a dozen korpsmen and three of his own teammates.
>>
>>98411520
base on the right looks worse, other than that good improvement. eyes / lenses could perhaps be pushed as brighter red than the gun, or make gun darker + eyes brighter
>>
>>98411610
nice paint job but the dildo bumps still look stupid.
>>
>>98411828
Slandering bonding studs?
>>
>>98411838
they're dildo bumps. maybe if you want to be pg you can call them pickle bumps. either way they look stupid and you will never convince me otherwise.
>>
File: 1773751454964916.jpg (100 KB, 641x842)
100 KB JPG
>>98411838
thems studs be bondin alright
>>
>>98411841
I think they look awesome, and you will never convince me otherwise.
>>
>>98411838
It's one retard forcing a meme
>>
The last few threads have been unusually slow. Here, have this masterpiece.
>>
>>98411874
>unusually slow
Being slow is actually the usual for /wip/, if it's more active than a couple posts an hour it means there's a spergout going on
>>
>>98411874
posting always dips down sunday and over the week, peak posting feels like thursday-saturday
>>
>>98410883
Copper comes in a wide range of colors.
>>
>>98410928
>but people are doing it on candles
You're used to paraffin candles, they didn't used to be so clean.

>Only like 1% of models I see with this style of fire actually look both realistic and visually appealing to my eye.
That correlates perfectly with the amount of models that look visually appealing in general.
>>
>>98411874
What am I looking at? It's kinda cool, but what is it?
>>
File: IMG_20260727_124656.jpg (2.49 MB, 4096x3072)
2.49 MB JPG
>>98407579
Much better than mine bruh
>>
File: graphic.jpg (17 KB, 474x177)
17 KB JPG
>>98411874
Am I supposed to ignore this?
>>
File: 20260727_060035.jpg (1.89 MB, 2250x1120)
1.89 MB JPG
>>98410928
i tend to go with a "less is more" approach to black plumes and fire, i do think some people add way too much to it and *realistically* a lot of fire shouldn't have it at all, but it can look cool so i like doing it that way
>>
>>98411421
>>98411429
Apart from Blanche being dead, it was never clear he was receiving any royalties whatsoever.
>>
>>98408335
Looking fantastic as usual, BTanon. It will never cease being funny how hard it moggs the original GW style.
>>
File: 1000045165.jpg (1 MB, 3106x4096)
1 MB JPG
Work in progress on a pirate rat
>>
File: 1000045175.jpg (914 KB, 3106x4096)
914 KB JPG
>>98412012
And a little moth druid. 7 mm tall without the antennas
>>
>>98412019
this is lovely
>>
>>98412012
>>98412019
I remember you. Did you switch from greenstuff to sculpey?
>>
File: violets.jpg (157 KB, 734x354)
157 KB JPG
>>98403580
Here it is, next to TTC Amethyst Rayne on Vallejo's black and white primers. For both, left is TTC and right is Golden.
>>98403582
It just works.
>>
File: wolf repainted wip 1.jpg (1000 KB, 1052x1081)
1000 KB JPG
I also used it here for the darkest parts of the fur, mixed with AK star blue. Just for fun I decided to repaint one of the first minis I ever did a couple years ago.
>>
>>98412025
Thank you!
>>98412028
Not completely switched, just trying to work more with Sculpey/Fimo because it's easier to find.

So far i can't complain.
>>
>>98412012
>>98412019
They're so cute!
>>
>>98411921
>You're used to paraffin candles, they didn't used to be so clean.
Candles used to be made out of tallow and beeswax, neither of which produce enough soot to turn the tips of the candles black.
>>98411968
This is the kind of fire where it makes sense to paint a bit of it black, the flames are so voluminous, and the material being burned is incredibly dirty, so a lot of sooty smoke would be produced and billow out. I think that you may still have painted a little too much black for my taste, but I think that might be me splitting hairs to be honest.
>>
>>98411974
They were using his name on the boxes weren't they? They had to be paying him something.
>>
>>98412109
Thanks for delivering, Goldenbro.
It definitely has a rich quality to it, I might consider picking up a couple bottles of this stuff.
I was also thinking about getting some of those W&N drawing inks that someone posted before, can anyone comment on how they feel to use?
>>
>>98412169
The contract could be 'You get x upfront and can use ur name for n years', it doesn't have to be royalties based
>>
>>98412181
Which is imo more reasonable to assume, since AP approached Blanche when he was already pretty ill.
>>
Scale75 estan muerto...
>>
File: IMG_6823.jpg (2.98 MB, 3917x5223)
2.98 MB JPG
Working on harlies for my 11th Ed 40K army. Progress from this weekend’s air gunning session. Starting on troupes soon as I finish the starweaver crews and glue them in place.
>>
>>98412216
Que?
>>
>>98412175
Wn inks feel like contrast paints because that's all contrast paints are, just that modern citadel contrast medium used in contrast paint minimizes gloss while inks have gloss. Inks can make a color more rich if mixed into paint and are great for the recesses deeping the color, darkness, and sheen, so cloth will look almost like a piece of satin looks where the shadow is still reflective, but becauseof gloss and intensity inks are used sparingly because they not only change the color but also the sheen. But they flow so well that they are great for recess shading where you purposely paint only into the recesses avoiding midtone and highlight areas altogether like when you do pin washes or black lining. You can do this with watered down paint too but paint breaks down if too much water is used or you want to use soap on your brush with paint to lower viscosity and increase flow in those cases, so inks fill that gap in our tool kit being like a very low viscosity and high flow paint substitute with powerful staining power and high pigmentation without pigment grain since they are usually a dye not a pigment, giving intense color and staining qualities again like a contrast paint hint hint. The only real problem with them is that gloss and that they dry harder because they usually contain shellac to make them water proof, so you really want to have a moist bar of soap or a soapy sponge available and fresh water for cleaning your brush between strokes because they will stiffen your brush quickly. Acrylic paint isn't so hard to remove from a brush because its a clump thatbcan be softened but some inks can be hard to remove without a solvent rinse well use soap. Another way to think about inks is like a watercolor paint for minis which is how i use contrast paints, very transparent tint and dye previous layers really easily enchancing color but suck at making corrections because the pigment is transparent and won't cover previous layers errors.
>>
>>98412216
>>98412368
Nani???
>>
>>98412392
Now a word of caution, liquitex inks are just low viscosity Acrylic paint, good for airbrush but not a true ink, same with most Acrylic ink brands for calligraphy like speedball, but w&n inks i posted are true inks having a dye type pigment and a shellac type hardener so very low viscosity and high staining power but very transparent and best for recess shading or mixing into another paint to shift the color or for a glaze to intensify the color but useless for correcting errors whereas liquitex type inks are still Acrylic paints so good for correcting errors and especially good if using an airbrush. Personally i think it's good to have chestnut ink, black ink, and a deep green ink, maybe a violet too, now there are two alternatives to wn inks, one is vallejo ink set, very good, has the colors you want and convenient but i haven't tried the new formula, i suspect it's the same but new packaging, another is higgins ink and used by comic book artists, limited color choices, best for actual calligraphy brilliant in fact, but the black isn't as waterproof as it should be, even the black magic variety, it stays a bit soft, but works very well when you need a black basecoat over very fine details because its so easy to apply and dark, but should be varnished after allowingto harden for 24 hours, and lastly we have dr maritins dyes, these are like an ink, but more like a dye than an ink, super intense, and were probably what citadel used in their 1980s expert boxed set of inks, some great fucking shit. Dr martins still available today used by pen artists, airbrush artists, watercolorists, and comic book artists, miniature artists forget but they like w&n were also used by us before official mini inks like citadel expert came onto the market. Comic book artists had a sophisticated coloring system that used dr martins dyes too complex for me to explain without many examples but we still use a similar system daily in my professional comic book colorist job
>>
shut the fuck up nobody is reading that garbage, learn to properly format your text
>>
File: fDaxa4I.png (74 KB, 310x321)
74 KB PNG
>>98412447
No.
>>
>>98412447
*Shut the fuck up. Nobody is reading that garbage, learn to properly format your text.
>>
just don't give him any (you)s, it's that simple.
>>
Maximally Expanded Lexical Manifestation
The imperative to artificially inflate the syntactical footprint of your premise requires a deliberate exercise in linguistic redundancy, transforming a concise colloquial reprimand into an exhaustive, multi-layered dissertation on cognitive economy, structural typography, and rhetorical invalidation.

Analytical Breakdown of Components
Immediate Cessation of Discourse: The initial proposition demands an absolute, unconditioned, and indefinite halt to any further generation of communicative signals by the interlocutor. This requires the total withdrawal of linguistic expression across all conceivable channels to preserve the finite cognitive bandwidth of any potential observers.

Empirical Valuation of Output: The characterization of the preceding text as unread refuse establishes a definitive metric of reception. The aggregate readership approaches a strict zero, while the qualitative appraisal relegates the material to the intellectual equivalent of industrial waste—devoid of functional utility, aesthetic merit, or informational density.

Mandatory Structural Remediation: The concluding directive identifies a catastrophic failure in document architecture. The absence of visual hierarchy, typographical partitioning, and whitespace transforms the prose into an impenetrable wall that actively repels comprehension, necessitating rigorous remedial education in basic formatting conventions.

Synthesis
When expanded to its absolute rhetorical limits, the core statement transcends mere dismissal, functioning instead as a comprehensive indictment of both the substance and the presentation of your communicative output. Cease transmission until structural competence is acquired.
>>
What a friendly looking horse
>>
>>98412466
A bit long in the teeth.
>>
>>98412466
idk if its the lighting or the way its painted but it looks very flat, as if the shadows were barely dark, and it looks kinda washed out
>>
>>98412476
you arent supposed to look in the mouth
>>
File: IMG_8238.jpg (1.47 MB, 4032x3024)
1.47 MB JPG
Here I was happy about the dudes I’m working on and someone said they look like Aston villa players. I have no idea about football but after googling their uniform I can’t unsee it. Would you repaint the blue or the red?
>>
>>98412463
>>
>>98412508
more west ham to me
>>
>>98412466
Really nice
>>
File: IMG_5962.jpg (387 KB, 1370x1469)
387 KB JPG
Evil Spaceman wip. idk bout the recipe. the base layer is khorne red, and i shaded with gal vorbak but i dont think the shading is even visible (helmet only). perhaps i redo, or try different things on different parts of his armour..
>>
>>98412504
Only if it's a gift.
>>
>>98412508
Dey cute
>>98412518
Classic
>>
>>98412521
well it does bring them
>>
further homework on brushes.
Winsor Newton Series 7 and Raphael 8404 are both inarguably quality brushes, however unlike the da Vinci brushes they fail to verify provenance of their materials, they do not track their materials to source and verify that they are guenuine tobol kolinsky sable, only da Vinci of all artist brush manufacturers does this, so while the former are still good brushes, the da Vinci brushes are a step above.
So these three are the choices for a true quality brush, but da Vinci is a step above the other two, only they can verify their material as being THE material that made the kolinsky name famous in brushes.
>>
File: 20260727_111105.jpg (321 KB, 1401x1079)
321 KB JPG
Got half my current project done. Fucking checkerboards on a round surface, man...
>>
>>98411032
>>98411976
Appreciate it boys

>>98412876
>Fucking checkerboards on a round surface, man...
I recently experienced that pain myself

I just eyeballed them on the kneepad, but if I were to paint a lamenter's pauldron I'd probably take some measures first
>>
>>98409605
My brother in Christ, what the hell are you priming with? I literally use Golden high flow through an airbrush to prime with. It's not rocket science.

>>98409809
>he doesn't paint his bases

>>98410063
Ask me how I know that you don't game frequently.
>if you paint exclusively with lacquers or testors enamels, I apologize for my outburst
>>
>>98412427
Keep rocking Jeremiah, ur my favourite professional artist <3
>>
>>98412320
the beetleshell coat is amazing, but the thing that really stands out to me is the masks, that blue undercoat gives it a real glow.

this one in particular made me go back and look through all of them.
Overal, I rate it Honk out of Honk, would clown with.
>>
>>98412876
Looks really great perfect yellow, great matching browns, good freehand
>>
>>98413029
I paint the base rims black only after everything else is done and I do so while holding the base top and bottom, not holding the mini, the mini never gets skin oil until post-varnish.
>>
>>98411825
Been trying to fix the base but am unsure what to do. Might just restart from scratch.
Also, good idea regarding the gun/eyes.
>>
>>98412320
can you explain your entire process for this?

>>98412427
what about alcohol inks though like copic marker refills?
>>
How do people land at the point where they spend hours painting tabletop+++ tier models with skill I will not attain in a million years but also their models have extremely visible mould lines that you can spot from orbit?
>>
>>98413029
the reason to use a clear coat is because it improves properties like solvent resistance, uv resistance, and abrasion resistance. by abrasion resistance I mean if you scratch it with a fingernail or a pointy bit of another mini it will be less likely to cut through the paint. if you paint is flaking off it's 100% a problem with prep or application and nothing you put on top of it will fix it.
>>
Has anyone used cobalt keep bases? Are they worth it?
It's about time for me to base my minis and I'm wondering if I should just buy these for the convenience factor

I could also just print some bases on my resin printer
>>
>>98413695
drilling gun holes and cleaning mould lines is boring. Might also be second hand models where it's hard to clean the mould lines from the last guy when the model is already built.
>>
>>98413695
Painting is fun. Cleaning from nubs/moldlines/etc is not. Shrimple as that.
>>
>>98413331
Thank you.
Once thing I learned recently was if you put some retarder in the paint and have a wet paper towel handy you can wipe the paint off if you make a mistake on the freehand. Instead of having to paint over it
>>
File: brood medic.png (892 KB, 1237x1115)
892 KB PNG
a combination of leftover pilgrim alpha robot arms and servo skull bits from the battlefield trophy box, and my brood medic is now a dollar store haemonculus.
>>
File: 20260727_221615.jpg (580 KB, 1656x1607)
580 KB JPG
kitbashed a dude from a bunch of spare parts i had
hes a midget zombie bounty hunter
>>
>>98414071
>>98414117
Baller
>>
File: ScheisseFleugel_2.jpg (1.44 MB, 4000x3000)
1.44 MB JPG
Anybody have decent images of good-looking flamer nozzles
>>
File: 1785181894076.png (2.23 MB, 1059x1828)
2.23 MB PNG
made another door
>>
>>98414071
That looks clean as hell!
>>
>>98414148
and now the mausoleum is complete
>>
File: 1785183881000.png (1.81 MB, 1206x1034)
1.81 MB PNG
>>98414157
maybe actually attach the image
>>
>>98414148
>>98414160
very cool anon, what kind of color are you going to give the stonework when you paint it?
>>
>>98414148
>>98414160
How did you make this?
>>
File: 1785186654869.png (1.16 MB, 2332x396)
1.16 MB PNG
>>98414339
bluish grey i think, something like this
>>
File: 1785186958797.png (1.72 MB, 1280x965)
1.72 MB PNG
>>98414363
i 3dprint the basic shape and cut and glue individual bricks
picrel is a printed section a for a wall and some leftovers from the previous bricks
>>
File: finkin.jpg (58 KB, 736x600)
58 KB JPG
>>98414396
Very sensible approach, I dig it.
>>
File: desert arid camo wip.jpg (853 KB, 2302x776)
853 KB JPG
Here is some work in progress attempts at desert camo. This is actually my second attempt, the first was using triangular bits of colour, now I'm going for way more of a traditional camo pattern, using blotchly lines, but it ended up being more like tiny splatters.

I used VGC Khaki as a base, then VGC Bone White, Citadel XV-88 and Citadel Doombull Brown. The Doombull Brown maaaay have been a step too far, but I do like it. This was my first time really using XV-88 and holy shit I really like it, it's a wonderful coffee shade.

I definitely fucked up by using a shade at the final step, I'll correct it. I should have been more precise and used a thinned brown paint instead. Or maybe even an oil pinwash.

I'm not so sure about the camo colors. It feels more like autumn leaf stuff.
>>
File: 1355.jpg (819 KB, 1977x2400)
819 KB JPG
>>98414143
>>
File: IMG_20260728_004059.jpg (2.56 MB, 2000x2000)
2.56 MB JPG
basecoated a Starpriest today
>>
File: camoh.jpg (244 KB, 1337x497)
244 KB JPG
>>98414470
adding some green helped mine look a bit more natural I think. AP onyx skin, tundra taupe and tomb king tan.
>>
>>98414148
>>98414160
>>98414396
Sick.
>>
File: brood medic 2.png (655 KB, 1038x1036)
655 KB PNG
still not sure what color I want the uniforms to be.
>>
You ever paint something that you still wonder how you did so well on even months later
>>
>>98414470
Look gud
>>98414160
More real looking than the odyssey
>>
>>98415117
>try to paint an iris
>my hands are about as steady as michael j fox on angel dust
>by pure cosmic improbability strike the perfect lil black dot that I know will never be matched no matter how much effort
Sometimes you just roll a nat 20 irl and you gotta roll with it
>>
>>98407548
https://youtube.com/shorts/A0Y389PvD6o?si=UmHPwHUg1xTkyNv2

If I swap the metallics with greys, think it would be a good baseline for space wolves? I’ve not tried using a sponge to paint and am looking for something simple to start.
>>
>>98415155
Not a fan of that at all. What colour wolves are you going for? Heresy grey or light blue grey?
>>
>>98415167
Heresy. But I grabbed a bottle of bear cavalry iron man grey I wanna crack open. would have probably sponged Vallejo neutral grey followed by iron man drybrush. Finish with a hit of gravelord grey or cloudburst blue.
Got 3 marines primed with AK grim brown or skeleton bone drenched in garaghak sewer in front of me. Was experimenting with bronze over brown for another project. But I’m always open to ideas.
>>
I need recommendations for a good dark saturated orange color, ideally darker than GSW's ember orange
>>
File: brood medic 3.png (1.1 MB, 1539x1241)
1.1 MB PNG
update
>>
File: brood medic 4.png (1.02 MB, 1521x1263)
1.02 MB PNG
>>98415356
>>
>>98415356
>>98415360
I really like the green in the needle.
>>
File: brood slasher 1.png (852 KB, 1388x1173)
852 KB PNG
>>98415489
gundam marker yellow as a base, both for the needle and the tank on the back
then tesseract glow for the needle, nuln oil for the tank.

anyways, next up on the docket.
I've been having a lot of fun with these guys, lots of room to use leftover bits.
>>
File: 022158463.jpg (1.93 MB, 2000x1500)
1.93 MB JPG
>>98413351
Why make it harder than it has to be? Stick it on an empty paint jar or shot glass before you start priming and don't remove it until the painting is completely done. Way easier than holding on to the base.

>>98413690
He's a lying schizo. Don't give him (you)s, and for God's sake don't ask him for advice. When he said
> inks feel like contrast paints because that's all contrast paints are, just that modern citadel contrast medium used in contrast paint minimizes gloss while inks have gloss
you should have stopped reading, as anyone that's used both inks and Contrast paints knows that this is probably the most retarded thing anyone has said in this thread so far. It actually made me wince reading it.

>>98413715
Whose paint is flaking? Regardless, use a better clear coat. A good product will keep flock stuck to the base without any glue necessary, never mind poorly adhered paint. Let me guess, you're using a hobby product, aren't you?
>t. used to use pledge floor wax back in the day before sc johnson discontinued it, now use quick shine floor finish
>>
>>98412012
>>98412019
God speed, you magnificent bastard
>>
File: 20260727_202632.jpg (1.63 MB, 4000x3000)
1.63 MB JPG
I made some changes! Paler skin, and picked at the green scales some more. I like the face, I think it looks pretty sickly
>>
>>98415726
>A good product will keep flock stuck to the base without any glue necessary
maybe if you never touch it. this is so wrong that just thinking about it basically proves my point. imagine you are trying to make a terrain piece with aquarium pebbles or something but you forget to glue them down and just spray clear over them. maybe they will stay in place when you pick the piece up and move it around, but the second you start putting shit on top of it and moving them around it's all going to fall off, because of course there's nothing holding them down.
>>
>>98412109
I remember the Golden SoFlats being shilled hard on Youtube (and by extension, reddit) a few years ago but I never bothered to try them out, and the usual ballwashers no longer seem to be talking about them. Now that the hype's over, what's the appeal?

>>98415884
Flock is not rocks you fucking idiot, so no, I'm not going to imagine your irrelevant scenario. A good clear coat is not designed to secure loose flock and paint but it absolutely will. Given your terrible takes on the subject, the one that you're using seems to be shit, so why don't you share it with the class so we know what to avoid? Also, try using a good one. I suggested two, one of which is still in production. You can even shoot them through an airbrush unthinned and they clean up with water while wet, but you'll need ammonia to remove them once dry. If the glossiness offends you, Testors has you covered with Dullcote. I'm not normally this specific with product recommendations but seeing as how you apparently only have experience with subpar products, a little advice might go a long way with you.
>this is a schizo test btw, let's see how you do
>>
>>98415923
It's not worth it anon, he's too much of an idiot, if someone doesn't understand how a clearcoat that prevents scratching paint (by their own admission) also prevents flaking paint... then there is nothing you can do to fix their problem.
>>
File: Untitled.jpg (135 KB, 964x606)
135 KB JPG
>>98415923
imagine you have a magnet and you put it on a base without glue. how much clear will it take to prevent the magnet from being ripped off the first time you try to stick it to something? the answer is that even if you use 2k automotive clear it's not going to work because clear isn't glue and was never meant to be used to patch over a shitty paint application.

here is a paint job done at the shop where I used to work (by my coworker not me) and even with a clear coat that's designed to be dropped on the ground and kicked around it still wouldn't stop paint from falling off if the prep and the application wasn't right.
>>
File: GnudoXvXsAEuE62.jpg (613 KB, 2048x2048)
613 KB JPG
>>98415923
They're art paints not miniature paint, so the quality is a tad bit higher quality but its also matte and similar viscosity to mini paint so its not as big a leap for the average mini painter to use compared to most artist paints. Liquitex acrylic gouache and holbein acrylic gouache fill basically the same role of a high quality paint that may have pigments you dont have access to in mini paints, such as the semi-opaque yellows like proper bismuth yellow or diaryhlide yellow. as a lot are single or 2 pigment paints you have access to some extremely bright paints like pyrolle red as well.

The people shilling them weren't wrong to, but an artist company like golden doesn't give a fuck about mini painting and aren't going to give them money to continue trying to sell people on them. I use them and a few other art brands to supplement my miniature paints and to mix my own convenience colors. they're roughly the same price as mini paints when you get the really expensive pigments like cobalt teal and cheaper but higher volume when you get cheaper ones.
>>
File: Screenshot-2282-1.png (152 KB, 667x518)
152 KB PNG
>>98414117
>midget zombie bounty hunter
>>
>>98414071
>>98415356
I don't want to be an asshole, but the all-black variant with small red accents look better, although it's probably just primer.
>>
>>98415853
Where is this mini from?
>>
File: 20260728_095404.jpg (1.94 MB, 3431x2281)
1.94 MB JPG
>decide to get into model kit vehicles after an anon here posted about it more
>go to my local toy store and grab a tank that was on discount and looks decent
>building was a lot of fun but i noticed pretty quickly i picked the wrong scale
>the tank is super huge, i don't think playing with it would be feasible (even if i only play solo wargaming)
pic related, necron warrior for scale
i guess i could slap a dozen weapons on it and call it a "super heavy tank" and call it a day, but idk
i also thought i remove the turret and the top and maybe try to convert it into an open-top ww2 style troop carrier or something while i leave the turret and gun as a stationary defense element, idk
>>
>>98416445
Try 1/56 scale.
>>
>>98416445
Not sure but that could be the right size for the Space Marine hovertank.
>>
>>98416454
>hovertank.
oh damn, i like that idea!
sounds like a fun kitbash too
>>
>>98416468
Could also be an Ork tank, or a Baneblade, or an orkified Baneblade
>>
>>98413243
Thanks! I think the masks really tie the non harlequin vehicles in with the bikes and starweavers. I don’t know how I’m going to harlequinize non harlequin infantry though…. Just a head swap seems lazy.

>>98413690
There’s a guy on YouTube with a good tutorial called GRG Miniatures. He also has an instagram, though from what I can tell he’s only painted troupes and harlequin bikes.

I took his process and filled in steps where it made sense
>rattlecan spray-prime models army painter black
>airbrush liquitex acrylic ink Iridescent Bright Silver making it opaque on the center of the of the model and progressively getting more transparent towards the edges. The edges should still be black essentially.
>airbrush liquitex Deep Turquoise in a random pattern for each vehicle, usually just pick a wing to be turquoise and a random interesting greeble.
>airbrush liquitex Quinacridone Magenta on the opposite side of the turquoise, make a decision if the random turquoise greeble should be purple or green. If purple, I’ll hit it with the magenta. Let the colors interact, but still leave tiny silver spots for the yellow.
>fill in the remaining silver with liquitex Cadmium Yellow, spray it on boring looking parts of magenta to make orange, turn some of the turquoise into green.

After all of that, I prime the masks blue and zenithol white, paint the crew with the same method, and paint the cockpit glass with GW iron breaker. Hope this helps.
>>
>>98416520
so it's basically like doing candy metallics? I was wondering if they were color shift or anything.
>>
>>98403606
Are you there? I need professional opinion on Liquitex and Daler Rowney inks that are sold at an art store. What do they have that is better than the winsor old school inks you showed and likewise what did the old school inks have over the acrylic inks? I've been curious about whether a "ink to wash" medium could be made where a medium mixed 50/50 with an ink turns it easily into a proper wash. So far I've only learned of Les Bursley's acrylic ink making recipe. I'm not sure if his recipe will work well with Ultra matte medium. Or if gloss is a better choice to make the acrylic washes tint the overall model less but shade the recess and raised details more.
>>
>>98415356
Once you flat varnish this thing, it will be absolute peak.
>>
File: comp_l.jpg (2.59 MB, 3846x3495)
2.59 MB JPG
>>98416445
1/35 works extremely well for 40k, but only for as long as you are picky with the specific vehicles and eras. Older vehicles (WW1 to roughly Vietnam, though there are always exceptions) are generally smaller and work well. Modern vehicles, especially MBTs are generally way too big. Some modern IFVs and APCs still tend to work well.

For example, M113 is pretty much 1:1 to Impulsor (I'm kitbashing one right now), and Bradley is nearly 1:1 to Repulsor/Land Raider. Smaller WW2 tanks (like Sherman, Panzer II - III, etc.) are generally a good scale, but the big cats like Tigers or Panthers are starting to get way too big.

Picrel, Repulsor with 1/35 Bradley parts.

>>98416450
1/48 is a safer bet, but the details become way too thin and delicate for 40k at that point. It's imo better to stick with 1/35. Just get an actual measurements of the irl vehicle, divide by 35 and compare it to the 40k vehicle you wanna replace/kitbash.
>>
Does someone have experience or even heard of "Color Forge" primers here?
Someone in my city is selling 2 cans for a tenner, which is relatively cheap. Say what you want about GW/Citadel, but I have zero complaints about their primers. (But to be fair, I only have experience with them, so I can't compare)
>>
>>98416681
That looks so fucking cool holy shit
>>
Raptoranon never disappoints
>>
File: 23236_rd.jpg (53 KB, 600x480)
53 KB JPG
>>98416681
Looks a bit cartoonish
>>
>ink
Why not just use contract, xpress, speedpaint whatever?
>>
>>98414117
>stacking templates
looks good, anon
>>
>>98416721
>Why not just use contract, xpress, speedpaint whatever?
Not gonna lie I've been looking at old school methods of miniature painting for the past few days. I got curious about the methods of the old days of miniature painting. I saw ink and it looks like a good tool for easily tinting the colors of models which I think counts as glazing and also converting into a wash.
Speaking of glazing this Dr. Faust video still blows me away. I think he used glaze medium with the green. Maybe his cold palette did some magic and it was all water.
>>
>>98416735
>I saw ink and it looks like a good tool for easily tinting the colors of models which I think counts as glazing and also converting into a wash
Well, you can do the same with contract/xpress/speed whatever
>>
>>98416721
You want to use the more expensive less versatile product just because its hobby branded?
>>
>>98416745
>You want to use the more expensive less versatile product just because its hobby branded?

What? Last i checked xpress/ AK quick gen are cheaper than W&N, liquitex inks
>>
File: IMG_5117.jpg (558 KB, 1567x2062)
558 KB JPG
Not sure if I'm vibing this repose

Originally planned to give him a big 1 handed sword choppa or a power klaw but didn't have appropriate bits or materials to scratch build so ended up using this old dreadnought fist.

Gonna fix up his shoota then see how I feel about it.
>>
>>98416719
That would make an excellent ork/grot tank tßh. If anything Raptors don't look cartoonish/40k enough. Really a soulless meme chapter.
>>
>>98416750
No you must buy the more expensive artist product, even if its cheaper per ml!!!!!!!!!!
>>
>>98416591
You got it. It is just metallic undercoat covered by transparent inks.
>>
File: krieg veteran.png (561 KB, 740x1021)
561 KB PNG
>>98416425
I get what you mean, I haven't done anything more to this guy because I like the all-black with small colorful details.
>>
File: 20260728_155750.jpg (467 KB, 1558x1468)
467 KB JPG
>>
>>98417046
That's some thick as fuck edge hightlight
>>
>>98409599
Does it need to be 1500 or will 1000 fill up the details?
>>
>>98416443
Fenris games
>>
File: 20260728_172613.jpg (1.16 MB, 1870x1332)
1.16 MB JPG
those rams look so dumb but its part of the charm
>>
>>98417187
1500 fills absolutely nothing
if anything it makes all the tiny imperfections or differences in finish of the bare plastic more visible in my experience
1000 is the "regular" version with some amount of filling
>>
>>98416688
I've used the matt black and it was great.
>>
>>98416688
colourforge is the gold standard for rattlecan primers
that they're finally in north america is a godsend
>>
>>98417319
Looks like my hedge trimmer.
>>
>>98417365
i mean that's literally what they are
>>
File: updaters.jpg (690 KB, 1778x1245)
690 KB JPG
>>98416688
I'm using trench brown now. Not as good as my goat grey auto primer, painting surface can be a little slippery for the more watery brands, but it's fine and definitely a lot better than bad primers I've used over the years (inc. GW's old chaos black sprays).
>>
>>98417438
They do not oscillate sideways to slice, they are rams.
>>
>>98417456
They're meant to be a 41st millennium version of the WWII-era "Culin Hedgecutter" that was fitted to some allied tanks. In the grim dark future where there is only war, though, yer Chaos ladz are more likely to gleefully cut down enemy infantry by driving through them though.
>>
File: 20260728_183912.jpg (603 KB, 1234x1194)
603 KB JPG
>>98417365
>>98417438
>>98417456
>>98417499
i dont remember over my head if they did anything in other editions but this 2nd edition ram bar rule is pretty awesome
also sory for the siderail
>>
>>98417499
Not sticking out a quarter of the vehicles body length really improves the aesthetic.
>>
>>98416758
ork the fist up with some extra cables and open panel covers or something and I think it'd look great. even just some spiky bits like he's got on his left shoulder would help
>>
>>98417440
they are very clean and smooth gz anon
>>
File: IMG_7156.jpg (2.5 MB, 4032x3024)
2.5 MB JPG
Got my Redemptor done.
>>
>>98417911
Well done.
Remember, it is always a good time to add a topknot to your 40k models. It is always morally correct.
>>
Anybody have recommendations for custodes-scaled barechested bodies? I wanna do a gag killteam of them based on their original depiction
>>
>>98418223
Kingdom Death models on ebay?
>>
>>98418223
Look on cults, you'll find precisely what you're looking for.
>>
I wanna clean up and organize my bits box.
I have a fuckton of empty sprues, should I just throw them away, if I am not a LvL. 99 /wip/ anon who melts them into goo and through some arcana ritual makes new minis out of them?
>>
File: armiger almost adjourned.png (3.48 MB, 1871x1437)
3.48 MB PNG
I've missed posting models ever since /ktg/ died so here I am now
Been working on and almost finished an armiger knight now that they can be used to some extent in KT, the sprues have been lying around since 2018 so this has lightened my pile of shame a bit. Thinking of doing the same to the two big knights I also have since then, but that might wait until late autumn for reasons. They would make for more of a diorama piece.
Still needs a few final highlights and a base, but that shouldn't be too long.
I suppose now I should properly develop some lore for this knight house, so far I've only been working off a vague idea just to let me paint it with some coherent ideas.
>>
>>98418249
>I wanna clean up and organize my bits box.
Make a bitz cabinet. Be sure to label the drawers. Scrounging endlessly through unlabled drawers literally takes years off your life.

>I have a fuckton of empty sprues, should I just throw them away
You can recycle sprues at your local Warhammer store. Make sure to remove all the bitz first, as the managers have been instructed not to allow patrons to fish through the green box for sprues with useful parts.

Alternatively, you can melt sprue plastic in a pot of Tamiya cement to make sprue goo, but there's only so much of that you can do before holding onto empty sprues for the future seems like needless hoarding.
>>
>>98418249
I’m only keeping a couple of mine in case I find a use for em with terrain, otherwise I just toss em
>>
File: ei 2.jpg (30 KB, 453x353)
30 KB JPG
remember when you bought that new display cabinet and thought this will finally be it, i can showcase all my models in loose and clear formations army by army
now you are once again stacking models 3 or more on top of each other wishing you bought a bigger one or 2 at the same time
>>
>>98418432
2 Detolfs weren't enough.
>>
File: 1757372073223544.jpg (311 KB, 1333x2000)
311 KB JPG
>>98418432
fuck you, I can install these floating shelves whenever I want...I just don't want to!!
>>
>>98418461
I've got the pieces for a cabinet sitting beside me waiting for me to measure the holes to drill before I give them a final sand and assemble.
I'll get to it, eventually.
>>
>>98418432
>want to have my models on display but where I live the air drops dust like you wouldn't believe so open shelves are out of the question
>acrylic "display case", $50 and up
>acrylic "bread box", $20
heh nothin personnel, hobby taxers

Yall got any storage / transport tips?
>>
>>98418506
Not bad but small, go for acrylic sheets, make shelving out of pallet boards (can get for free if you look around local) and buy some cheap hinges, your doors won't be the prettiest but your minis will be visible and dust-free.
>>
File: acrylic displays.jpg (2.13 MB, 2292x1500)
2.13 MB JPG
>>98418432
I use these acrylic display cases and shelves
>>
>>98418506
>where I live the air drops dust like you wouldn't believe
Bro is living on Mars
>>
>>98418506
I just got a cheap IKEA glass cabinet and put weather stripping on the door so it's dustproof
I have three big dogs and live in an old-ass house so it's insanely dusty but my models stay clean
>>
>>98418506
>Yall got any transport tips
i got my first cabinet from local craigslist and the elderly couple could not help me so i got a week leave from work because i hurt my back hauling it
8 years later the next cabinet i got was from a thrift store manned only by elderly women who all laughed at me because they had to help me carry it until i told them i was recovering from a spine surgery
this is the life of a wargamer
>>
>>98418506
Shoe display boxes I got on sale for tanks and big stuff, dollar store foldable clear boxes I get in multi-packs that hold about 20 marines each
>>
File: multifluff.jpg (2.52 MB, 3264x2448)
2.52 MB JPG
>>98418620
Maybe he has dogs.
>>
>>98418506
Cheap bead art case at Hobby Lobby or Michaels. Just make sure it's deep and flat. Then get the cheapest, thinnest ferrous cookie sheet (if you can't get your hands on cheap, ultrathin stainless steel plate from a hardware store) you can find, and cut it the dimensions of the bottom of it. Use temperature resistant epoxy, glue it down, and voila. Under $50 magnetic carrying case.
>>
>>98418706
If only...I am tired of Earth, these people. I live in "northern" (re: everything north of Los Angeles) California where you keep your windows open all the time because having a heater is normal but having AC isn't, the terrain is dry and dusty and it builds up very quickly. It doesn't help that my preferred aesthetic for furnishing is dark wood finish so you notice every speck. The only other place I've lived is Florida where I could get away with dusting every month or two, here it's a weekly task if I don't want it to bother me.
>>
>>98418827
so it is very cold but you still live in a desert
you live in a very weird and apparently dusty place
>>
File: 20260728_155959.jpg (203 KB, 1048x912)
203 KB JPG
Ha ha!
>>
>>98418893
good job on the checker pattern and i dont envy you if you have to do that on every model
>>
>>98418893
Bro did the highlights on the helmet and then gave up
>>
File: 20260726_202002.jpg (1.2 MB, 1712x1016)
1.2 MB JPG
>>98418865
Yeah it's cosy in winter, but the moment winter starts falling off you need to open every window and make sure air is moving or else your place turns into an oven. Sometimes there is no breeze and the cooling effect just turns off, so you sweat lying down which is neat. It used to only be like that for a few weeks in a year but lately it's been happening more often and for longer periods. Perhaps there is some field of study that explains this, but personally I believe it's witchcraft.

So as not to waste more space with my blogposting, I'm making good progress on my chaos dread. I've got a primed Heldrake that I aborted work on after doing one of it's smaller wings as a color test because the way I was painting it would have driven me insane to do the whole model, but working on this dread I've been experimenting with a trim method that is both fast and effective, imo. In hindsight I may have been better off priming with black rather than grey, but oh well.
>>
File: IMG_5264.jpg (3.83 MB, 4031x2864)
3.83 MB JPG
Update
>>
File: 20260728_235038.jpg (1.04 MB, 1470x1202)
1.04 MB JPG
>>98418970
i can relate because ive painted them both and its not much fun to grind trough all that trim
honestly i dont like the green plasma but the rest look really good and good luck anon you can make it
we are currently enjoying summer here so its 8 celsius outside at night and in 4 months it will be -40c
t. finland
>>
>>98407680
>Tamiya Stegosaurus box underneath
John Sibbick, who painted the wraparound covers for both Rogue Trader and Warhammer Fantasy Roleplay, is much more famous inn the "real world" for his many dinosaur paintings.
>>
>>98419035
it loks really sweet but why did you build the heavy duty foldable frame around it
>>
>>98419078
My nigga
I decided on that green to match my other guys' plasma guns, I accidentally created a scheme for gun casings where plasma & lascannons get green, conventional ammunition and flamers get red, meltas get yellow.
>>
New thread:

>>98419132
>>98419132
>>98419132
>>
>>98418827
>preferred furniture aesthetic
You can afford to solve your problems, quit yer bitchin.



[Advertise on 4chan]

Delete Post: [File Only] Style:
[Disable Mobile View / Use Desktop Site]

[Enable Mobile View / Use Mobile Site]

All trademarks and copyrights on this page are owned by their respective parties. Images uploaded are the responsibility of the Poster. Comments are owned by the Poster.