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gonna 3d print them some cool pistols to hold on to tonight.

>made it into the collage with a last minute post
My penis can only get so erect

using black primer because it makes it easier to make shadows dark is like eating soup with a fork because it makes picking up the chunky parts easier.

So did my first ever airbrushing today. I was paranoid of my paint being too thick, ended up way too thin.
So for those who use one, how do you mix? I kind of eyeballed it based on guides, which were 2 drops of thinner, 2 drops of flow improver, 2 drops of water and 6 drops of paint. Sometimes it seemed perfect, other times too thin. At least it wasn't too thick.
Do you make a mix separate and save it?
The airbrush cup has a lid, it also has translucent plastic cups. Should I use them so it stops spillage, can see levels keeps from drying up etc?

>>98442060
Since you're new to airbrushing, I'd actually suggest buying some pre-thinned airbrush paints.
I also eyeball my paints. I start by putting in a squirt of paint, then a couple drops of flow improver. I adjust the ratio of paint and flow improver depending on how the paint is spraying, I don't use exact ratios for acrylics (though I do use specific ratios for lacquers). I usually spray at 1.5-2 bar of pressure.

>>98442060
I personally don't use the lid, since the paint is unlikely to spill in most cases.
What do you mean by plastic cups? Can you post a picture?

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>>98442069
I was priming to start off. Not actually painting colour.

>>98442075
<-

>>98442079
gotta check those reflections when you deliver anon

>>98442060
I mix in a separate bowl. I tilt it and pull some paint up to see how quickly it runs back down to gauge if the paint needs more thinning. I pre-thin primers and varnishes and some paints that get used a lot.

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>>98442079
>>98442084
Hello, anon.
To be honest those just look like high-capacity cups, whether you use them or not would just be personal preference. I'd give them a shot at least once.
When you're doing a larger project, like a couple squads at a time or a particularly large model, these will come in very useful.

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Is the Iwata Neo known to have issues with air pressure weakening if the nozzle cap is fully tightened? Today I ended up spending more time troubleshooting than actually painting models, dipping the nozzle and caps into airbrush cleaner but the spray is still pretty weak unless the cap is a little loose, and it's certainly no fault of the compressor's performance.

I shall post finished models in this thread and I will get on the next sticky. That is my vow.

>>98441792
>3D print
Can't wait to see what you'll print to those bad boys.
What printer, and resin?
And since you have a printer do you have time to print one of those greenstuff tube making things?
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6847139
Something supposedly for sci-fi cable looking tubes with greenstuff.
There may be some for tentacles too.

And what did you use for the basing there? I have some models on "integrated puddles" so I need something nice to level the ground for it before applying wood glue and sand.

>>98442060
Airbrushing can be a bit of trouble when starting out but one is supposed to pick up on the methods soon. I am suffering from this as well. Hopefully the airbrush links in the OP are good for beginners like you and beginners like me that tried, failed and now have to clean the airbrushes and have to try again.

>>98442137
>finished models in the work in progress thread
you fucking monster

>>98442060
reduce your paint in a separate cup so you can test the consistency and then pour it into the airbrush when you think it looks right. forget about a magic ratio that will work every time. every brand of paint and even different colors from the same brand can require different ratios. keep a notebook with records of what worked for each paint you use. test your spray pattern on a piece of cardboard before you spray your minis.

>>98442060
I eyeball it. A good trick is to pour the thinner and flow improver in before the paint, otherwise the unthinned paint will flow up into the nozzle and can cause problems.

Thinning too much isn't necessarily the end of the world either depending on what you want, spray some plasticard or your hand or something and watch how it behaves. If it's runny, you decrease psi, if it's chalky, you increase psi. You can bypass a lot of issues related to thinning by doing that.

>>98442220
>>98442203
>>98442188
>>98442086
Will do some more experimenting next weekend. Cheers anons

>>98442105
>>98442084
Shiieeet

Silly question for you WIPers but does anybody here use a DIY wet palette with swedish cloths?
Do you put like two or three on top of each other into your DIY palette and then put a lot of water in it or just one? I'm unsure about using paper towel below the parchment paper so that's why I am looking into swedish cloths instead. I'm just curious if anybody has experience with this kind of wet palette setup.

>>98442275
yeah, never heard them called that but i've used em and they work well

>>98442310
>yeah
How many dishcloths did you stack on each other before adding the parchment paper on top? Did you have to add more water than what paper towel would have used? I haven't gotten the Swedish dish cloths proper yet.
>but i've used em and they work well
Anything I should be aware? I know they won't make mustard gas, but I've read that Swedish dish cloths can be chucked in the washing machine.

>>98442188
Sirayatech mix of tenacious and fast. Old trusty Mars 2 pro :) I have a cable roller/maker, am planning to scifi them up a bit. The basing is milliput superfine white (over a few layers of cardboard for the smaller prince). I realised the daemon prince's infernal cannon is basically a heavy bolter profile so I'm gonna try to kitbash something in blender like a mix of a heavy bolter and a pistol.

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made another wall

it's time to start recasting these, caster anons what do you recomend? tin/plat silicon, expoxy or poliuretane resin? should i get a pressure pot? shill me your favorite products

>>98442347
I don't know shit about casting but those look wonderful!

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Finished, time for dreadnought

>>98442404
Very neat work, anon.

>>98442317
I mean it's literally just a sponge. Idk why people take wet pallettes so seriously in this hobby. I'm no authority on the subject but who the hell is, it's a wet sponge with parchment paper on top. I use enough to give it enough height so that the parchment paper isn't floating on a puddle of water, but is on top of wet sponge. If you feel it isn't right add more water, less, add more height whatever.
I don't usually wash mine. It takes certainly more than a month of semi-daily use for it to be disgusting enough to throw away/wash. So I just use and replace what I've got or use paper towels. But you could conceivably wash them.
Sorry if I sound like a dick

>>98442454
what sponge

>>98442488
these "swedish dish cloths". Spongey media.

>>98442499
sure i could try that i should have some new ones under my kitchen sink
dunno how thats any different from the paper towel though

>>98442509
if you try you own solutions you'll see there's really no real difference in what's beneath the parchment paper. As long as it holds water. I'm lazy and just fold paper towels now.

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>>98442325
finished one heavy bolter pistol.

Do you guys know how I can make a dark blue metallic? I'm using Citadel paints and want the armor for my Ogres to have this color.

>>98442802
put blue ink/contrast paint into metalic paint. or you can put down a metalic and glaze it over it. both give different effects. just get creative and test and see what metalic paint + inks/contrasts work for you.

>>98442817
I've never done glazing before but I would assume:
>Leadbelcher on the gut armor
>Get a dark blue
>Put more water into it than usual
>Paint it over the Leadbelcher

>>98442871
You need a transparent blue, not a watered down one. Like the other anon said, inks and contrast are more likely to fit the bill. If you're brush painting, mixing the metallic with the blue instead of glazing gets you a more even result.

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Got another steel rift model done after some delay. Lazy drybrushing but I think that's how I'm gonna go for most of these guys

>>98442060
These anons are giving you good advice. I want to stress that there’s no magic formula for thinning, only starting points. Additionally there’s almost nothing that you can’t force through an airbrush, given enough pressure. Cranking up the psi to compensate for thick paint is a bad idea if you’re trying to do details but if you’re just hammering out base coats on largely monochromatic things, priming, or varnishing like most of us use our airbrushes for, you can usually get away with a less than ideal consistency by fucking with the pressure. Unfortunately we can’t really teach you how to do this because it’s very much done by eyeball. Stick with it, put in the reps, and you’ll get the hang of it eventually. Once learned, you’ll be able to properly thin whatever product you’re using and will have no need for formulas, so it’s a skill worth learning. Trying out a bottle or two of prethinned paint isn’t a bad idea because it’ll allow you to focus on the brush without worrying about the paint, and it’ll give you an idea of the consistency that you should be aiming for when thinning your other paints.

Stick with it and don’t sweat the mistakes, that’s how you learn. One day it’ll click for you and you’ll wonder how you painted without one. Then you’ll start fucking with airbrushing media and inks and you’ll see just how deep this rabbit hole goes.

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>>98441765
Who makes theses collages? Its a really cool touch for the thread. Two of my necrons are in it too. I actually like looking at other peoples models.

>>98443051
we have a dedicated baker-anon and a userscript tool to help making them

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What's a good alternative to Vallejo Bone White for bones/skeletons and scrolls/purity seals.

This stuff is way too gloppy and inconsistent. Thinning doesn't help; it just pools and doesn't cover well, necessitating so many coats as to render the thinning moot. Always patchy and uneven.

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>>98443318
I can personally vouch for AK Grimy Grey, it's probably my favorite offwhite. So many uses, and it applies really nicely, too.
Also, you can get Stahly's swatch in OP mega.

>>98442404
Really well done dude

>>98443318
Never used it but it looks pretty close to Golden titan buff, which I use for the same things.
>also great primer for contrast paint

>>98443318
how about good old bleached bone, you started with it and might as well come back to it
or are you one of those who wont use citadel range because it is too mainstream and you are special

>>98443325
>Stahly's swatch
I wasn't aware of this pdf. Thanks.

>>98443363
I use Citadel's washes because they're probably the best acrylic washes on the market, but I hate their paint pots. Opening agrax earthshade is like trying to defuse a warhead. They're specifically designed to spill and dry out as fast as possible, such that you have to buy more (at twice the price of other paint lines).

>>98443384
Just put it into dropper bottles. It's a wash, it's literally a two minute process.

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Playing catch-up on my hobby schedule thanks to a work trip, but I got a chance to bang out the last two hags yesterday. All I have to do now is some sanding and waiting for it not to be as humid as Satan's balls so I can get them primed and ready to paint.

>>98443363
I personally refuse to use Citadel range because of the terrible pots. And no, I'm not going to try some complicated scheme of transferring the paint manually to a different pot, to even suggest such an enterprise for a basic paint is absurd, their paints are not that much better than the others to make the hassle anywhere near worth it.

>>98443377
Literally the only color chart that's actually good.

>>98443400
The nipples are beeeg and the breasts are lumpy. I really like the idea but you may want to resculpt and take your time making them smooth as you can.

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Almost done with the freedhand itself. The rhino has been done for a while.

Shame it won't see the battlefield anytime soon...

>>98443455
I'm relatively new to sculpting so I use sanding as crutch to smooth everything out. I let them sit for a day then I go back and sand or add additional bits where needed.
I've been playing with epoxy mixes to find a blend I can use for a smoother finish that doesn't just dissolve in water. Hoping to save myself same time on the clean with it.

>>98443517
I've noticed with milliput I only need a drop of water to mix and make it workable. Keep your tool wet and you shouldn't need to add much more water than that.

I want to get into using green stuff putty more often. I did try it a bit and was able to make some crude shapes but I don't know what consistency it needs to be at to really work with it / design it. I want to use it to make objects for kill team too. Like barricades etc. Are there any tips and tricks to using it?

>>98441907
agreed

>>98443628
i would recommend to use greenstuff for details, and other (cheaper) putties like milliput for bigger shapes, also don't use putty when is not necessary, if you want to do a barricade with a tank trap for example, use plasticard, real rocks and only use putty other details like sandbags

>>98443400
Can't wait to see the full squad

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>>98440951
rly nice paiting anon, i like it much more than mine. Nice to see another oni enjoyer

>>98443318
It's none of that, shake your bottle retard.

>>98443318
pro acryl beige grey or olive flesh, the former is a couple steps darker than vallejo bone white but it covers beautifully, latter is just a hair lighter than the vallejo and behaves much better
>>98443737
bubblejo shill is seething today

>>98443772
95% of my paints are ak 3rd gen, I just happen to own 4 beige vallejo game color paints including bone white, which I used for skeletons so I know how this paint behave. It's smooth and has great coverage.

Retards being retarded is nothing new though.

>>98443772
>bubblejo shill
Can I have at least one thread without retarded shit like this.

>>98443789
5 cents have been deposited to your account!

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>>98443795

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>>98443737
I have a paint shaker. Didn't help. Thinned with water. Didn't help. Thinned with acrylic medium. Didn't help.

It's just a shit paint. Some colors are like that. I have 100+ different Vallejo colors, and ~90% of them are fine. Some colors are just not well made and it's not the end user's fault.

>>98443928
Speaking of bad Vallejo colors, I have an old bottle of their Bloody Red, and it's really thin and watery. Is the one I have just shit or is the paint just like that? Are bright reds from other manufacturers any better? In the past I only used for smaller details so I didn't mind, but now I'm trying to paint larger surfaces with it and it's fucking awful.

>>98443963
>Are bright reds from other manufacturers any better
pro acryl bold pyrrole red is probably the best bright pure red out there

>>98443963
saturated reds do tend to be thin.

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>>98443928
Works on my machine.
One streak, good coverage.

>>98443318
Try one coat of brown before the bone, you're probably trying to cover black primer with a whitish paint, never a good idea, but all brandscarry a bone color, it's made from yellow ochre and white usually for the warm shades, sometimes raw umber for the greenish tan shades, sometimes both.

>>98443928
>that pic
Just tell me if you did or didn't

>>98441765
how tf are you supposed to file down sprue marks/mould lines? whenever i do the area left behind looks awful
i'm using a metal file, should i be using one of those really fine sandpaper stick things?

>>98444027
>that
>good coverage

>>98443476
Absolutely gorgeous work. Award winning in my opinion
>>98443963
Red is usually napthol or pyrole pigment and yes it's thin but some batches will be thinner, turn upside down for half hour and shake, if still bad stir with toothpick, if still bad leave pot slightly open under a mason jar turned upside down to trap moisture for hour, check again, if not thickened remove jar 15 minutes and repeat, slowly dehydrating the stuff until it thickens the way you want

>>98444061
use the back of a hobby knife, not the sharp bit, not cutting. Place the flat back at the top of the mold line and drag it with light pressure towards you, and it'll take the moldline with it without harming the model too much.

>>98444071
That reads like a faggot coping to me.

>>98444061
Yeah use sponge sandpaper stick, moisten with water to control dust and keep sharp, wash model with soap and ultra soft toothbrush after. They sell variety model sandpaper sticks on Amazon, works gud, files are for big changes or metal models, you can do it but it takes a very light stroke with a file, trad guys like me use a pocket knife, but it's easy to cut yourself without training in proper technique, some people use hobby knife but pocket knife usually better for that, some people use specialty tool called mold line remover, its like a hobby knife but curved and more dull so easier to control, even i touch up with sponge sticks though, easy to use and fast so just use that

>>98444061
>>98444081
>>98444096
where did this sandpaper thing even originate from
i guess you could use metal sandpaper or a nail file to even the pieces out
but you are already using youre exacto knife or scalpel to srape the mould lines so why do you need a file to scrape the rest

>>98444061
Get some sandpaper sticks, those work the best (better than the back of a hobby knife at least).

>>98444081
What about little sprue bits? I saw something that said the best idea is to clip a bit away from the piece then trim the bit off the piece with the knife and file it down. I'm filing wrong or something I can't get it right, lots of little white marks I can't smooth out without making it look worse

>>98444086
Anon the coverage is inconsistent as fuck you need your eyes checked

>>98444120
i don't ever file, for those i cut with margin, then cut real close, then trim, then tamiya ultra thin just to smooth the area, metal files sound like they'd be way too high grit for this, if you wanna file you wanna get something way way smoother

Could also be your clippers, you really don't want hardware store ones

>>98444105
Well my dad trained me and he explained sandpaper is part of the correct priming process, old guys didn't have primer and did sheet metal models like cars and trains and tanks and airplanes and testors plastic models which had large flat surfaces that paint didn't stick to, so fine sandpaper would remove imperfections mold lines, rust, old paint and glue, etc and etch the surface giving a slight texture for paint to stick to, dad was harsh and made me sand every single surface with the little pieces that came with the models, it worked but took forever, now we have sponge sticks and good primers, way faster

>>98444086
those skulls are chalky asf, not a good advertisement for your paint

>>98444131
Are you so fucking retarded you're looking at the skulls and not the streak? That's fucking hilarious.

>>98444140
>>98444141
Like pottery.

>>98444141
No, but cute cope
Enjoy shilling an inferior paint out of sunken cost, those 4 dollars must really have hurt your wallet for you to be this militantly in denial

>>98444147
kek it's too late bud

>>98444154
>everybody replying to me is one person
man you shills are VERY desperate to shit up our threads huh

>>98444156
it's okay, next time you'll know to shake your paint first

>>98444156
Hey you already know he's shitposting stop feeding him attention if you don't want him to continue doing it

>>98444081
Actually on trying this a bit more it works ok for the sprue marks better than hacking at then with the front of blad past the bull removed
>>98444096
Yeah I think I'll grab some sand paper sticks

>>98444156
how about you stop engaging obvious shitposters instead, you fucking cretin

I don't use sticks I just buy sheets of high grit sandpaper and cut it into strips that I can fold and angle as necessary to reach tight areas.

>>98444120
Cut tree part with a side clipper tool far away from the model part then closer once model is removed, then file or sand with light touch, the larger and more rough the file the lighter your tough has to be, remember you'll paint the model so plastic discoloration isn't an issue but indicates stress because you are cutting too close with a dull tool or twisting the model off, i use a pocket knife fir that too but again there's a special technique and it's dangerous without special knife training from guys like my father who taught me to master manual techniques first. For super small parts you can use toenail clippers but side cutters today are actually better, you place the flat side against the model the make a flush cut hence called side cutters or flush cutters mbut its best to cut farther away from the model anyway when first removing from tree and then touching up with a closer cut, to use file place file on table, hold part in finger tight so it can't shift and run wrist along table surface while locking fingers and wrist, this is smooth stroke technique, or hold model in left hand faced up locked fingers and hold file in right with finger applying pressure to back surface of file face and draw file backwards in smooth light stroke, check work, one more stroke if necessary, do not use back and forth action, just backwards stroke once, hence name drawfile, drawn backwards see?

>>98444171
what sticks
exacto knife is *checks notes* 0.4mm wide

>>98444188
draw filing isn't using the file backwards, it's when you have the file 90 degrees to the angle you are moving it.

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Another warrior done. Took me like 3 hours. And man... its not as perfect as I want. He looks... messy, imperfect. I dont think hes bad, and especially since hes one dude in a block of 10 he looks pretty good from ya know feet away instead of the close up. But damn 3 hours, I have another 7 models of this dude to go, the rest of the army. Fuck. I did a base coat of grey, than a much lighter grey. Then I did a wash to get the inbetween black. Then white.

>>98444391
how do you do the scales
if i might suggest just prime it white and then wash with black and drybrush with off white and white and then do the rest
that might save you some time

>>98444391
Only 3 hours? It's not a race.

>>98444434
Ill give that a shot as well. I did use dry brushing on the end which seemed to work out for making it look a bit better without consuming the washed recesses in white.
>>98444443
I dont mind taking awhile to do it unless its the basic bitch units you have a ton of. They are all pretty much the same guy with minor variations and tiny enough its a bit annoying to hit the small details well.

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Decided to paint funny clown men
Dunno why I thought heavily freehanded minis would be a respite after 120 neophytes but here we are.

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Got another two done, very relaxing.

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These are done enough that I am willing to post them. When it comes to doing bases, what are some things to keep in mind? I hear you can use basing to balance out models as far as colors go. I might look into that.

Squad of Deathguard but with /yourdudes/ flavor. Hopefully this doesn't have a fucked rotation.

>>98444606
heh

>>98444610
Nurgle has chosen rotation I see.

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>>98444588
>>98444606

>>98444606
You can prevent rotation by cropping your pics before you post them.

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>>98444633
I was going to reupload but the shame is too great.

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>>98444649
Ah thanks.

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Does anybody else ever get the idea in their head to 3d model their hobby set up for no reason?

>>98445030
asking a slop machine to make your image into a 3d model isn't 3d modeling

>>98445030
writing a prompt isn't 3d modeling. you fucking faggot

>>98445054
>>98445065
Idk what I could to to tell or show you to prove that it wasn't ai generated

>>98445125
Explain what the hell raggug kolyinskyosea is supposed to mean
or why every color is labeled scarlet red lmao

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>>98445137
It says Razgriz Kolinsky Osea 8492 because I didn't want to use the real brand names and all I could think of were Ace Combat references. Here is the alpha mask for the number 3.

>>98445137
Oh, and the second is because I don't know how to dynamically change the text without just manually doing ever texture or having an individual mask for every color name. I can drive the paint color and the random paint dried on the lid dynamically but I can't (or don't know how to) change the text to just somehow match the color I pick. I am thinking about just taking the color name off and leaving the swatch as the only indication on the label.

>>98445125
NTA, but show geometry, simple as.
t. 3Dfag

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>>98445162
keep this garbage in its containment thread, faggot

>>98445054
>>98445065
>>98445182
doesn't look ai generated to me
ai would have fucked up the text somewhere

>>98444539
Are these 15mm? impressive job if they are

I am going with CSM as my first army largely due to already having models from my youth. I bought the speed paints starter and was planning to do the slapchop method. I also bought some terminators along with the paints from my LGS.
Are all the little details on the terminators going to be a pain with the speed/contour paints?
Based on the collage I should be basing my models, or just use blu tack?
If I try to use the beowolf blue speed paint to get something similar to Shadow Grey (retired) will that work?

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>>98445179
I'm not really sure that proves anything if the accusation is that I generated the models from a photo.
Like I have all the high/low poly assets, and substance painter projects but that I can't really just SHOW that in a way that would mean anything.

>>98443517
>>98443540
This and buy a decent silicone clay sculpting set

>>98445209
>I'm not really sure that proves anything
It does, AI can't into geometry at all. This is fairly clean, definitely not the garbled dogshit AI produces. You alright in my book.

>>98445030
>>98445209
niggas will really do a 3d model of hobby supplies instead of painting their models

Was considering picking up some new brushes. Is there any particular brand that is pretty good? Wanted a general set for miniatures.

>>98445278
rosemary & co has the best synthetics and some pretty modestly priced sables
don't buy hobby brand brushes they're the same thing as all the other brands but marked up 250+%

>>98445278
I just use a box of chinese brushes. They work well but wear out quick. Still I got like 100 for 5 bucks so whatever.

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An idiot from last thread here.do any of you prepaint then assemble? Am I supposed to paint the areas were it would be highly unlikely that anyone would see? Like on the back side of the arch of the forward mounted heavy boltter.
also are most gold paints thinner then most other paints?

>>98445284
>modestly priced sables
>sable
The source from china and there is no documentation to prove the nature of their "sable" it could very well be a synthetic blend.
da Vinci vets the origin of their material, true Siberian weasel on stuff like series 35.
If you're going to buy fancy, buy verified fancy.

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just a chill predator

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>>98445327
>also are most gold paints thinner then most other paints?
Yeah, metallic paints actually require much less thinning than other paints.
To answer your first question, you can paint in sub-assemblies, where you partially assemble one area of the model, paint it, and assemble the rest on top of it. So for example, you'd paint the turret, chassis, and the gunner separately, then glue them all together with superglue once you're done. You can separate the model into as many different subassemblies as you like.
Picrel is an image I got from google.

>>98445278
I use davinci maestro series 10 rounds
Cheap synthetics are fine and have their place but I really think investing in some kolisnky sable is worth it

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Testing a new method to paint faces. Thoughts?

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>>98445545
Man it is hard to photograph mini heads

>>98445555
>>98445545
The skin is good, but the eyes are not very good at all, you need to go over the eyelids again to clean them up. You should probably also paint the lips at the same time.

>>98445545
>>98445555
skin looks good
give the eyes a very thinned down red/magenta wash, it'll help make them look a bit more natural

>>98444320
Draw Stroke
How to draw stroke correctly using a draw file

Slide the file backwards along the length of the workpiece until you reach your starting position.

>>98445220
Niggas will really call anything they don't like AI

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Back to painting this again.
I went with a darker blue for the robes and I am very happy with the contrast it adds.

>>98444391
Looks great
>>98444532
Great color scheme
>>98444539
They cute
>>98444606 >>98444665
I love the rich colors
>>98445030 >>98445209
No. You are sick. There are hospitals for people like you. :) but also yes. Artists have for centuries painted pictures of their own tools. These serve as important historical records of the way work was done. Critical information for researchers and artists today. Just do it! Looks good already, but it needs a glass element, like a jar of rinse water.

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Blocking in the metal parts with black now. It looks like I really need to darken the shadow tones on the skin now

>Wanna spray paint my Ogres after I assemble them
>It's so fucking hot in south Texas that I'm afraid the paint isn't gonna settle well

>>98445713
do it by the door in a cardboard box then open door and turn fan on

>>98445327
You can prepaint areas that would be hard once assembled, common technique, just be sure to lightly scrape mating surfaces with knife or sanding stick to remove paint since glue doesn't stick to paint well and you want a real bond to the actual model surface. Modern metallic paint like vallejo is pretty thin and self leveling so they recommend painting in thin coats with small moisture on brush rinsing brush between strokes to prevent the metallic pigment from drying the paint too fast, then using washes of various kinds for any extra color or weathering effects and darkening recesses. Old style metallic paint was opposite, very chunky so you applied black first and dry brushed the highlights with a broken metallic paint over raised surfaces.
>>98445499
Absolutely perfect, looks cgi

>>98445030
What level of autism is this?

>>98445555
Looks good, use darker skin around eyes yo clean up mistakes then lighter skin right above center of eye to make eyelid 3d
>>98445687
Sp nice, perfect blues and blue whites, non metallic metal effect not overdone, great work
>>98445699
Thanks. Now I'm in a booba stoopa

>>98445735
>non-metallic metal effect not overdone
It's true metallic. I'm struggling with it because I used to just do a lazy basecoat of metal, wash, and highlight. Now I am trying my hand at a base colour for my shades then building up the highlights with metallic paints. I'm not really happy with the results so far so I may try glazing a dark red and repaint my highlights.
Thanks for the compliments all the same!

>>98445785
I think he was referring to the armour tbdesu, which also looks really nice

>>98445814
Oh, my bad. I'm surprised people read it as nmm because I was just painting purple until I thought it looked nice.

Giga new fag here, ideally gonna start painting soon and I was wondering if there's a comprehensive visual guide/video/whatever that shows the impact of primer on many different kinds of paints.
Something like this for example but with more paints:
https://www.youtube.com/shorts/DS3jCC5naIY


The end goal is to do visually striking high saturation paint jobs.

I bought the warhmamer introduction set and just finished assembling the units. I also bought a wet pallet and some cheap brushes. Do you guys have any tips on how to paint for a total noob? or any good guides? Im not a very artsy person but I figured this could be a fun hobby to try.

>>98445850
I don't have an example for you, but if you want highly saturated paintjobs you ARE probably going to want to use a brighter primer but I would still recommend a base coat of a dark grey (or just black whatever) because it gives you shadows you won't be able to paint later if you get full coverage. You can always prime a light grey on top of that and make a point of leaving the dark spots that the primer struggles to reach anyway.

Fun next level thing to think about though. You don't actually want white to get maximum saturation. White is completely desaturated, it will give you brightness but it will still take away saturation.
You might think
>I want to paint yellow, it's bright, and a has bad coverage, I should paint it over white
But it will still take a ton of layers because even though the brightness might be similar, the saturation is totally off. What you want to do is creep up on the color you want. Instead of painting over white, you might want a desaturated sort of ochre or tan color, those paints tend to be mixed with a lot of opaque pigments are sort of close to yellow. Then you can go over them with your real yellow and it will only take one or 2 coats rather than 5. Think of it like a color wheel, you're only moving the point on the wheel a little bit rather than a lot like if you started from white.
In a pinch you can also do the same by just mixing white with your color since white will be mostly opaque as well and that will get you a lot of the way, and then the full saturation layers over top will keep bringing it towards the final color.
You would probably also want to use pure pigment paints as the final coats since they are going to be the most saturated but they're almost all very bad coverage.

>>98445861
Find some paint jobs that you like and tell us what you like about them. But for your first stuff I recommend just trying to paint a model or 2 and see where you're at. Remember to thin your paints.
Every paint is different so memorizing a ratio doesn't work, if you paint it on your thumbnail it shouldn't bead up, it should stay where you brushed it, and it should flatten out like a liquid and not have texture.
Leave paint to dry between coats or the second coat will leave a texture from your brush on the first, or even tear the layer up.

Just paint by numbers for now, try and do a quality base coat job on 1 or 2 models and go from there.

>>98445889
Thanks, I've done a fair amount of research as painting is what I'm looking forward the most, and I did think about zenithal or grey primer but that's partially why I wanted a guide like that so I could have a decent starting idea.
What about contrast paints?
So far I've seen doing contrast over white seems like a great starting place for what I want.

For the record I do want bright and saturated, but not eye rape either.
Not overly cartoony, just fun and colorful which is why I plan to paint Orks first.

>>98445861
thin your paints https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sBDVPoNXyVI
test your paint thickness with a stroke on the back of your hand, if you can't clearly see the texture of your skin when it dries it's too thick
angle your models so you're comfortable getting the brush onto the model
don't overload the brush, keep the paint from reaching the ferrule (metal clamp on the hair)

>painting old kharn
>see tube going into his arm and paint it green
>do the best green tube paintjob I've ever done on it cause it's a nice old model
>realize months later it's supposed to be his lat and not a tube

>>98445861
>Do you guys have any tips on how to paint for a total noob? or any good guides? Im not a very artsy person but I figured this could be a fun hobby to try.
Use the hairy end of the brush to put paint on the mini. The rest is mostly practice. Lots and lots of practice. Start with "painting inside the lines" and trying to get a smooth, even coat that covers without obscuring detail or adding texture (aka "thin your paints").

>>98445850
For high saturation always use white primer. It reflects the most light backlighting any transparent paint maximizing the effect of glazes and enhancing color and any uncovered white areas optically mix with adjacent colors brightening the figure. Second best is usually a very light cream color. Light grey mutes the color but maintains some brightness. Most white primers are slightly grey because they contain chalk for good layer adhesion, so a very light coat of that with one more coat of bright white paint like vallejos hobby paint spray white will maximize color but also make surface more slick making it more difficult to paint onto. I usually do 3 extremely light coats of army painter white primer, but I'm great at priming. But when detail is important i brush prime with coat darns grey primer mixed with a touch of white or dry brushing with white right after or going directly into washes before any dry brush.

>>98445911
Contrast paints are mostly transparent dyes, they are very bright in color over white which is why games workshop new wgite primer is whiter than before sacrificing adhesion for maximum brightness and color when using contrast paints, they have very good transparency so should be used like an acrylic version of a watercolor paint or an ink. For me they are used sparingly built up in nearly invisible layers or used for shading recesses selectively. And they are combined with other normal paints, never do i do an entire figure on contrast paints alone because the effect is kibd of water colorish lacking character and impasto which can add to a models character an texture. Never limit yourself to one type of paint or process, do what feels natural to create the optical effects you want to achieve. In one section contrast paints may be ideal, in another a metallic, in another ordinary acrylic, in another a dry pigment dusting, in another an oil wash, you never know. Just have fun.

>>98445861
Basically you have a shallow cup or jar of water for rinsing, add water to wet palette, enough to keep it moist, rinse brush with swishing motion in jar, wipe on sponge part of wet palette or moist paper towel or kirchen sponge to remove excess, brush should stay moist always, never wet when painting, never dry, just moist so paint flows, shake paints well before use, if pot paints use toothpick to get paint from pot and put on wet palette, if dropper bottles gently squeeze with tip near wet palette to make drop, now draw tip of brush through paint drop to get paint wet thinning out drop and try painting figure, bottom is best practice area. Let each stroke dry before trying again. Keep brush moist, between color changes or if clumps form, rinse brush and wipe backwards across moist paper towel and try again. It's not hard but takes a little practice. Prevent paint from moving up past 1 third of hairs of brush, just use the tip, if it does rinse again. When finished rinse beush under clean water and let dry, never leave brush in water jar, change water during color changes, use separate water jar or disposable cup for metallic paint. Pretty simple. Now mini should be primed before painting. Thats another subject.,,

>>98445208
I don't think speed paints are going to accomplish much since most of the difficulty with chaos marines is the trim and contrast paint is just going to make it harder if anything.

>>98445861
Priming helps paint stick and imparts sn initial color to whole model, some paints are transparent so don't cover darker colors well, for example red might be hard to see over black or dark grey or yelliw over black might look green, so we prime model with spray can white paint first or maybe a cream color, some paints are opaque means can't see through them, in games workshop parlance they call these base paints, base paints don't need primer and can be used if primer not available, so you can try different paints as your base coat on bottom of figure as a test if you don't have primer yet. Usually ultramarine blues, browns, grey, white, and maroon reds are okay as base coats but games workshop will call them base paints so you don't have to guess. Coat model with base paint furst working slowly with moist brush, rinsing every couple of strokes using thinned paint working on one area at time givingtime to dry before miving on trying to hide brush strokes as best as possible. Then build up colors in layers, so if marine is blue add maybe touch if white to bkue paint to make lighter and go around edges to make them stand out or add some red and white to make more purple etc, whatever you want. Be creative and have fun.

>>98445909
>>98445914
>>98445947
>>98446029

Thank you all for the tips they are very helpful


>>98446062

can you tell me about priming? The guide that came with the kit talks about "undercoat" is that the same thing? Is there specific primer paint? or can I use the black paint that came with the kit? Also in the guide I have the figures look gray and are undercoated in black. But my figures are already blue and green, do I do an undercoat in blue and green respectively?

>>98446071
There are specific primers, yes. "Undercoat" does also typically mean primer.
I recommend getting a spray can of chaos black, it's pretty easy to find and is an extremely consistent primer that's hard to mess up.

>>98446071
>>98446097(me)
read the instructions on the can and you can't go wrong

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I think they're done for now.

>>98445667
I don't care what whatever dictionary you found says. when you are draw filing you turn the file 90 degrees from your work. it's called draw filing because you hold it like you would a draw knife. here is a video of someone showing how it's done.
https://youtu.be/9Wp00rrOBLI?t=220

>>98446071
>Also in the guide I have the figures look gray and are undercoated in black
The majority of warhammer models are made of grey plastic, they only use coloured plastic for starter sets and boxed sets, to make it easy for beginners to play the game without even painting the minis. You can just use the same colour of primer for everything.

>>98445699
I love your painting and modelling style anon. Excellent bosoms as always.

>>98445699
you should give one of them a boob mole

>>98445861
my advice is to practice on something expendable until you feel more confident before starting on your overpriced models. you can use plastic spoons, the leftover sprue, or even just cardboard. try drawing shapes with a pencil and then filling them in with paint without spilling over. it's better to realize you don't know what you're doing with something you can throw in the trash than something that cost $60.

>>98446071
Yes undercoat is same basically as base paint or priming, it's just we call it priming if using special paint for priming or a spray can, we call it undercoat if using ordinary opsque paint like base paint that gamesworkshop sells, it's mostly just different terminology for similar ideas, this other post of mine explains it >>98446062.
As far as blue and green you can undercoat in same color for entire model but the undercolor will affect the top colors too, bringing harmony to the colors but perhaps making things difficult at times, for example if model has been coated in blue everywhere your green areas will also look slightly blue especially if the green paint us transparent so you might have to do more green layers to hide the effect of the blue base color if you don't want that or you can go back over the initial blue color with an opaque green base colir which will hide the blue better and then you can paint that area like normal easier. Alternatively you could have just done the blue areas with blue and the green areas with green from the start. We generally don't do it that way because it leaves gaps in the color where we miss spots and there isn't as much color harmony so we prefer an overall color to start with, usually white, cream, grey, or black, black is hard though because transparent paints don't cover it well, freat for dark characters like evilknights and such though, but we use special techniques to work on black without having to paint the same areas again and again to achieve good coverage, white is the most easy to cover but then we have to do more shading and white paint can be chalky hiding details or too slick and hard to paint on, cream and light grey is a good compromise. Totally up to you. Undercoat can be area and color specific too, for example if model is already black, but area needs to be red hard to do, because red doesn't cover black well, so we might use a maroon red first or a brown in that area, then red covers good

>>98446104
I'm a master gunsmith. You draw filing by drawing the file backwards. It has nothing to do with the angle. The opposite is push filing used to remove more material since files have forward facing teeth. Metal doesn't have a perpendicular grain so there isn't a directional difference in regards to the position of the piece. Only in the way you move the file with your body. Draw filing produces a smooth surface because the cut is less aggressive but it dulls the file faster. Push filing removes more material but causes chatter.

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>>98445615
>>98445632
>>98445735
Thanks. I touched up the eyes again and I think it looks better. I had done a crimson oil wash initially but wiped away too much I think.
I ended up messing up some of the other parts when cleaning off a misplaced pupil but oh well.

>>98446148
Major improvement. Great job

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>>98446148
Also I painted Vegeta

>>98446148
now he just needs some eyebrows

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>>98441765
Sorcerer's daemon possessed powerpack

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>>98446144
>I'm a master gunsmith.
post the last barrel you chambered and a group it shot then. this one shot in the 2s.

>>98445932
I'm right there with you man. I painted an extra finger on one of the 2003 cadians because I thought a ridge on the bandage he was holding was his thumb.

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>>98446144
Dunno how it is for gunsmiths but I’m a blacksmith and I’ve always seen draw filing refer to moving the file sideways across the work piece. Made my first knife that way, it look a long ass time.

>>98444061
>>98444120
Knife or sharper nippers for trimming the sprue nub. If it's on a concave surface then you're in for some improvising. Don't use files on minis as a rule, anything rougher than 400 grit is likely to leave gouges in the plastic rather than sanding it.

>>98446223
Draw filing is always pulled towards you. Hence drawn towards you. He's pushing. That wouldn't even be proper techniques for the position. He should angle the file at 45 degrees eoth the far end in his left hand and push for a quick cut or hold in the left hand at 45 degrees using his right palm for pressure drawing backwards for a smooth finish. What he appears to be trying to do is called milling which is trying to create a flat surface at a right angle to the sides of the piece. A mill file is always flat and they wear out quickly because the teeth are fine.

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So I have a vague idea for my paint scheme for my Ogors. I wanna make the Gut plates and the helmets this blue color with the lightning streaks but I want to make it look metallic but I've no clue to do that.
Video in question: https://youtube.com/shorts/5y4PDNkwiLQ?is=nUKco0cJ3B4ogyOx
I'm gonna make the edges of their gut plates be that gold paint he listed, and was gonna make their cloth be a dark purple which is just Abbadon Black mixed with Purple.
Thinking about making the cavalry look like Zinogre from Monster Hunter.
And for the lightning streaks on the armor, should those look metallic as well or will it be fine if I paint it upon the metallic blue?

>>98446193
My last barrel was a .54 caliber pistol, 7.25 inches, and i was hitting coke cans at 600 yards with iron sights from my cast lead round balls. Used ffg goex and crisco vegetable shortening for lube, cci percussion caps no 11.

>>98446266
The idiot-proof method for coloured metallics is to paint contrasts/inks over the top of a metallic paint.
Alternatively you can buy some of those new coloured metallics that vallejo makes.

>>98446266
Forgot to mention, was gonna add lightning pattern scars on their skin and currently wondering if I should make their eyes normal or be a very light blue or yellow to make it look like they're energized with electricity.

>>98446292
So I thin down Ahriman Blue over Leadbelcher and put a thinner version of Ultramarine blue over that.
Alternatively, do you know what Vallejo metallic paint matches the color of the armor in that video?

>>98446292
True, but even better is to add a touch of the color into the metallic paint first. Then do the wash.

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>>98446260
I have literally never heard draw filing refer to anything but picrel. If you want to substantiate your claim go ahead

>>98446347
That's sanding. Haha. You can't sand with a file. The teeth only cut in one direction. Hence the word file meaning a straight line. He should be lifting the file on the push avoiding contact and draw back using the full length of the file. He's going to ruin his file quick by wearing down one spot.

>>98446366
Ai?

>>98446347
You use a glass file on gunpla figurines

>>98446380
yes you see this a lot lately. some esl will say something wrong because he doesn't know the right word in english and then when called out he will use chatgpt to pretend to be an expert because he has to defend his izzat.

>>98446394
I've been making firearms since 1985. You?

>>98446430
post your ffl. even our professional artist linked his website.

>>98446467
>pro artist sperg posed his website
Really? Anyone have the link?

>>98446467
Do you think it's wise to post my address on 4chan?

I can still smell the paint I was airbrushing with yesterday.
Am I going to die?

>>98446661
yes

>>98446661
turn you fan on. you do have a fan right?

>>98446672
I was doing it outside. I wore a mask and goggles, but it was just a fabric dust mask

>>98446661
>>98446675
what kind of paint?

>>98446661
Open your doors and windows and put a fan facing the door. If you have a box or something you sprayed into sit it outside to air out. Stand outside if you have a headache or feel faint or cough or have a stuffed, runny, or bloody nose, or throat is scratchy irritated or closed up. Drink lots of water to give your lings and throat moisture, next time don't use any solvents and have fan and door open and always use good mask. Acrylic isn't a big deal usually but once you introduce solvents everything changes. Most likely you are smelling the solvent, that's the dangerous stuff. Acrylic itself would be dry by now but the solvent will still emit fumes. Stand outside for a while to get fresh air.

>>98446692
Acrylic primer.

>>98446697
I was outside so figured would be ok. Am not near my stuff am at work ATM but feel like I can smell it. I have bought a respirator mask as I'm now paranoid!

>>98446675
Oh then just put model in jar or something and sit it outside. You probably got some on lungs and on clothes so take shower and change clothesand throw them in washer, if no washer use soap in sink or garden hose and bucket etc, whatever way to wash clothes. Model is probably what stinks but it's still in your nose. Blow nose in shower to purge. Stand outside for fresh air.

>>98446706
>Acrylic primer.
You'll live, barely...
>I have bought a respirator mask
This is a good idea regardless. You might want to look into getting a spray booth, so you don't have to paint outside.

>>98446706
If you're just going to spray acrylics, then you just need particle filters for your respirator, but if you want to try lacquers/enamels, you'll need to get organic vapour filters.

>>98446706
Its on lungs and nose and clothes then, wash hands and arms and use moist kleenex to clean nose out. Take shower and wash clithes when you get home. It won't kill you but it can irritate your lungs for a few days and get worse with more exposure. You are probably sensitive to solvents like i am. You'll need to stick to non toxic everything. Water and propylene glycol only as thinner etc.

>>98446719
>>98446714
>>98446713
>>98446709

I'm not with my minis, I'm at work and not wearing the same clothes either. Had a shower this morning too.

Will look at getting a fan too, will still probably want to do it outside though.

>>98446742
Yeah i never prime indoors anyway, way too dangerous, the vans jave a mild solvent amd propellant, smells nasty, won't kill you but if sensitive can fuvk you up for a while, you'll be okay, you should probably dwitch to brush on primer, there are tips about spray to minimize exposure, like quick light pass, go inside while that dried, do another etc, wear face mask, don't spray into wind, stuff like that, oh and spray early morning before it's hot, keep can upright, etc all helps, but brush on primer is most safe method. Good for sensitive people.

>>98446754
Cans have *

>>98446754
I was using an airbrush, not a can, I know the cans are nasty

>>98446675
if you were outside you're probably smelling it on the miniatures you brought back in with you

>>98446788
Yeah but they're at home, I'm at work, why can I smell them now?

>>98446661
Yes.

>>98446799
Its in your nose and lungs, probably smelling the thinner you used, some brands of acrylic especially if formulated as a primer will have a thinner in them already, like testors acrylic paint does, they do that to make it flow out of airbrush easier, I've never used gamesworkshop air libe of paints so i don't know if those do, primers for metal and construction work sometimes have an etching chemical in them to etch the metal or plastic for better adhesion, not commin though in hobby paints, but could be present in bbq high temp type hardware store type paint, most common in industrial primer for enamel painted appliances. If the acrylic paint contains a hardener, lacquer, enamel, etc it will have a solvent. Examples include testirs dullcote and testors acrylic for military models and i think tamiya but I've never used tamiya. So try to atick to regular acrylic paints that have no odor at all when airbrushing, thinning them yourself with water and propylene glycol or glyerine. The first thins the paint but causes extra bleeding and sliwer drying, the second holds onto moisture making paint more sticky for longer. I suspect vallejo surface primer has some glycerine in it because it's sticky.

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>>98445727
I don't know.
>>98445691
Yeah, I still have to do a paint cup for sure.

I was hoping to at least finish the high poly of the airbrush tonight. But it's maybe like 70%. 3 trigger parts and the nozzle left.

>>98446839
Nurbs? Fucking nurbs? Any other old-school polyfags here? :)

>>98446851
It's subd not nurbs!

>>98446839
When you get done sell your rendering to a hobby mag or YouTube channel. Make them crawl like the worms they are.

>>98446854
Subd? Sudb? Maya fag or rhino?

>>98446861
Blender formerly max. But I didn't like saying Turbosmooth so I had to go back to Blender.

>>98446865
I use rhino, blender, 3dsmax, but 3ds is pointless now.

>>98443318
I like Two Thin Coats Griffon Claw over brown.

>>98446839
Oh my god paint your models

>>98443318
Vallejo Bone White is great you idiot.

>>98446880
>but 3ds is pointless now.
why?

>>98446947
It's expensive and doesn't do much, it's like a bare bones poly editor without proper snapping tools, no rapid cad tools, no sculpting tools, its good at rendering, that's about it. Blender is free, multiplatform open source and full of tools. It simply made 3dsmax obsolete. Gmax would have had a purpose for low poly video game editing but discreet killed that project fast when they understood that's really all 3dsmax was being used for anyway. Blender could be faster at low poly stuff making edge flipping easy and all efges always visible though.

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had an incident while moving miniatures in their cases where some smashed into each other, so now i'm doing some weird fucked up flagstaff surgery on this poor rat bastard
i haven't really done it before, but i imagine you can paint over a varnished finish and re-varnish without any issue?

>>98446994
Should be fine mate.

>>98446947
Blender has essentially caught up and surpassed it. Max used to have better modelling tools than blender, but hasn't been updated in 15 or 20 years since autodesk bought Maya.

>>98446994
Yes, acrylic sticks to varnish fine, we often varnish between layers as part of our process.gently brush then wash model with soapy water and soft brush to remove dust and hairs first though. A clean model is best

>>98446962
>>98446998
so is maya better than blender? what do videogame people use nowadays?

>>98447011
NAYRT, blender is going to obselete everything else in the not too distant future. If you're starting now, pick blender.

>>98447000
before varnishing i tend to go with blowing them with an electric air duster, although i imagine even then some bits of dust and hair can get stuck to the mini, so that's a smart idea on your part
i assume you let your models dry for a while before varnishing though? do you put them in a box or something?

>>98447014
i'm just curious, i learned some blender like 15 years ago, and mostly never touched it for 10+ years, but i remember how i always wanted some of the features that 3ds/maya had

>>98447015
Yeah air dry is fine, just make sure you've rinsed soap well getting into grooves with brush, hour max air dry should be fine, its summer time after all, if you have dusty house maybe put in jar leaving open or cover with a cup leaving cup gaped at bottom on some coins or something for circulation, but i just leave it on the table

semi-regular reminder that in america varnish is for wood and you should stop using language from people without air conditioning

>>98447142
kill yourself, shitposting retard

>98447142
Weak bait.

>>98445545
>yfw you're going to hunt humans and they wear pink purple armors...

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Gonna fix up the shark teeth a little, but I'm happy with this so far.

>>98445499
Very cool tonk, love the weathering.

>professional fartist is also a professional gunsmith
Incredible, what's more on your fantastic resume.

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>>98445545
>>98445555

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Fuck. Really not in the mood to strip that big bastard. That's what I get for priming in the darkness at 2AM.

>>98447392
Ok but whats wrong with dis picture?

>>98447413
I oversprayed the right flank (left picture). The grim reaper and the neck fur lost a lot of detail.

>>98444061
Apply some thin plastic cement over the filed area?

>>98447413
nta, maybe he's being autistic about the thickness of the primer?

>>98447421
You're going to paint over it, so you can just paint in any of the lost detail.

>>98447252
>kampfer head + gqux zaku body
which HG are the legs come from?

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Percival from kdm is almost done, I just need to figure out how to varnish her - guess I'll gloss coat her entirely and then brush over matte varnish over any part that isnt a metal
I fucking hate miniature photography, it looks so much more ass than in person

>>98447317
kek

>>98447317
laffed

>>98447474
Rocks look real

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>>98443024
Another!

>>98447474
terrific job on her hair
did you use the eye tutorial thats been floating around recently? or just done after

>>98448614
Looks great

>>98448848
Thank you!

>>98446071
You’re engaging with one our resident schizos. He’s eager to help but his advice ranges between extremely helpful if a bit meandering and AI generated hallucinations, inclusive. When receiving an answer from him, a trust but verify approach is warranted.

>>98449022
I have yet to see some actually good advice from him. I even went so far as to try what he "advised," and it was, unsurprisingly, bullshit.

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Got a very good deal on some temu terrain. It's not half bad. Some pretty bad layer lines on some pieces. Anyone know some good tricks for layer lines on FDM? I assume just using a thinned down clay or putty or somesuch?

>>98449094
Cards look really great. Scan them in and make them into an original game you can sell

>>98449129
Yeah, green stuff putty is best, apply with old credit card and smooth out, file or sand to blend, you can fill imperfections and layer lines with special filling primers used on cars and metal models too but I've never done it. I just smooth here and there ro break up the obvious later lines, and glob on cheap black craft paint, the cheaper the better because it fills better.

>>98448630
thanks!
For the eyes yeah I tried the guide that got posted here a bunch of times
Cant say it turned out too well but eh, nothing I can do about it besides more practice

>>98442275
I'm pretty sure those are the same sponges used in official wet palettes.

>>98449416
her right eye(left in the photo) turned out great, the left one could use some work.

>>98442275
Paper towels will work but you can use kitchen sponge too and thin dish towels, whatever you want, for Paper i use tracing paper, the cheaper brands work better.

>sick of little fibers from paper towels getting in my brush
>some anon on here recommends shop towels
>try it
>shedding is way worse
dont do it

>>98449793
kleenex

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Im thinking how I could possibly add more Sorcs keeping them undivided

>>98449793
A piece of cloth is your best bet, but some of those shed too.

>>98449887
all those sorcs and none of them painted

>>98449887
get ye some aos/old world bits

>>98449887
I have a bunch of rogue trader chaos sorcerers with rescaled legs I can post for you to print, hopefully I remember to do so once I'm home.

>>98446071
gw acts like priming and base coating is the same thing but this is a lie. the reason priming is important for plastic models is because acrylic paint doesn't stick to plastic very well. primer has a different composition from paint that makes it stick to the plastic better. it's not relevant here but there are also types of primer meant for metal or drywall or wood. the point is that you are "priming" whatever material you are working with so you can paint it more effectively. you can't use regular paint as primer because the whole point of primer is to be a foundation for regular paint.

the purpose of an undercoat is to establish a color or shade that will affect how the paint you put on top of it looks. for example a gloss black undercoat will make metallics look shinier, or some people will paint pink or brown under yellow to make it look more saturated. you can also do something called preshading where you underpaint dark and light colors where you want shadows and highlights to be so that when you put your actual color over it your shading will already be done. some idiots call this "slap chop." anyway primer can be an undercoat and they sell colored primer for this purpose, but it doesn't have to be.

base coating is basically establishing the primary color of your work. for example if you are painting a tank that you want to be mostly green you would base coat it green and then paint all the parts that aren't green. gw says you should just use colored primer for your base coat, but this is a bad practice for various reasons and you won't find anyone doing outside of warhammer hobbyists, so you should ignore them.

some people will probably jump in and say I'm wrong about everything, but if you believe anything I say it should be that if you want to learn about plastic model painting you should look outside the wargame scene. it's a terrible echo chamber of bad advice pouring out from gw and then being repeated by people who don't know any better.

>>98449793
are you using the blue ones? anyway if you need lint free rags you can try old undershirts.

>>98444074
> Award winning in my opinion
Does not compute
>I'm a professional artist who works on comics , in my opinion
>That man over there is an olynpic gold medalist, in my opinion

>>98445959
>>98445989
Alright, thanks for the answers.
One more question I was wondering about, can you mix citadel technical paints?
Say if I wanted to make one of the terrain paints more green or light blue or stuff like that or is that impossible because of their composition?

>>98450066
you paint over them when they're dry

>>98449900
That's his scheme.

>>98443476
damn that's fucking sick

>>98450066
>>98450089
Yeah, you just paint over them. This is why the texture and surface of the material is what really matters. GW sells basically 4 types, sand, mud, small crackles and big crackles. On the crackle paints, you do need to consider what undercoat you have, it can be seen below the cracks.

Because it's basically impossible to paint the sides of the cracks, that's where it does matter what base color your texture paint is. I bought the black crackle paint just for lava effects, it turned out great.

>can you mix citadel technical paints?
Except for Valhallan Blizzard, the snow product. That one is different. You can water it down a bit to make some effects like foam on ocean waves, but don't try mixing paint with it. Or do try, whatever, it's your money.

>>98450052
Factual statements can also be opinions. Opinions can be objective.

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Playing with a box of random bits is sometimes more fun than just building a model kit

So I've finished building the balrog and it has some huge gaps. What would you recommend? I got a pot of liquid greenstuff but I don't think it's going to be enough. Regular greenstuff or putty?

>>98449991

Thanks but I'm looking into current csm only, preferably that I can source from a plastic kit.

Fabius Bile and one possessed body come to mind for two more Sorcs. Missing one more for the 8 pointed star chaos thing...

Perhaps the new Garreon model from the Red Corsairs.

>>98450298
What about the acolyte from the legionaries kit?

>>98450287
That's a prize anus.

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I have painted this Thane in only a couple of sessions. I'll probably just base him and call it done.

>>98450287
Yeah, kitbashing freedom is awesome. That's a good abomination!

>>98450309

Already an acolyte, I have pretty much every marine kill team in csm skin, including the non csm ones.

I could reuse the fire hand though, and maybe the book, on the Garreon body with Archaon's demon sword... Will report back.

>>98444120
Don’t overthink it. Use hobby sized side cutters and cut as close to the part as you can without damaging in. Use a *sharp* hobby knife to carefully shave off the remainder. You shouldn’t need to sand or file it after you’re done.
>file it down
If you’re going to file, use a very fine one. The tamiya ones are good. Standard needle files are going to be a bit coarse for this. A cheap and useful sanding device is a nail file. Steal one from our resident professional artist’s mom the next time you’re visiting her. If the line’s too long, they’re available for sale everywhere.

>98446288
>hitting coke cans at 600 yards with iron sights from my cast lead round balls
You just had to go and throw the whole fishing rod into the water, didn’t you?

>>98449115
His color theory stuff seems sound but yes, he’s wrong more than he’s right. Speaking of which…

>98446128
>98450001
Fuck. Do we have two of them now or is he samefagging by using capitalization part of the time? I’m so confused.