[a / b / c / d / e / f / g / gif / h / hr / k / m / o / p / s / t / u / v / vg / vm / vmg / vr / vrpg / vst / w / wg] [i / ic] [r9k / s4s / vip] [cm / hm / lgbt / y] [3 / aco / adv / an / bant / biz / cgl / ck / co / diy / fa / fit / gd / hc / his / int / jp / lit / mlp / mu / n / news / out / po / pol / pw / qst / sci / soc / sp / tg / toy / trv / tv / vp / vt / wsg / wsr / x / xs] [Settings] [Search] [Mobile] [Home]
Board
Settings Mobile Home
/tg/ - Traditional Games


Thread archived.
You cannot reply anymore.


[Advertise on 4chan]


Work in Progress, Never Looking Back Edition

>Full-on /WIP/ OP Links Pastebin:
https://pastebin.com/BE42AEcD

>WIP Tutorial Images Mega
https://mega.nz/#F!TvQFCaLb!w8WZKCcOsTRasxrI0JWezw

>Saint Duncan's "Six Things I Wish I Knew When I Started Painting"
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ufP8ka3KGno

>Saint Duncan also explains thinning your paints
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wxWgsqSf74s

>Paint thinning 102
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sBDVPoNXyVI

>4 EASY Chipping Tricks For Beginners
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ku4comhKHJM

>Decal Like a Pro
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SYKLiEW7p9c

>How to Edge Highlight
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KoRbYuAfbEk

>How to use contrast style paints
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IhholrozptI

>How to Paint with Tremors
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oqp76vAJu9g

>Airbrush Priming and Thinning
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jkntrSBvXxE
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IGjBQzoukFg
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=00JVUxABe44
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AEqT_R41JX8

>I don't care if Monday's blue
>Tuesday's grey and Wednesday, too
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mGgMZpGYiy8

>Who's Johnny, she'd say, and smile in her special way
https://1d6chan.miraheze.org/wiki/Johnny

Previous threads:
>>98453998
>>98441765
>>98419132
>>
>>98465121
purple sisters just look damn good
>>
File: goblin-scan-looped.webm (2.75 MB, 600x800)
2.75 MB
2.75 MB WEBM
I scanned my goblin.
>>
>>98465389
got a pic of the actual mini?
>>
File: DSC02252.jpg (2.54 MB, 1941x2403)
2.54 MB JPG
>>98465396
>>
what was the best model of the previous thread?
>>
>>98465464
What good do you think comes out of asking this question?
>>
>>98465464
not yours, that's for sure
>>
>>98465464
The one you liked the most.
>>
>>98465464
trick question since I havent posted any models last thread
>>
>>98465464
definitely the ai sloppa
>>
>>98465503
Which post would that be?
>>
>>98465464
All of them.
>>
>>98465464
craftanon's models
>>
File: 5d6.jpg (54 KB, 680x680)
54 KB JPG
>>98465518
>craftanon
>not craftsperg
>>
File: Pathetic.jpg (80 KB, 700x1270)
80 KB JPG
>>98465524
>brown identifying anon
>>
>>98465518
which model is that?
>>
>>98465666
he posted some of your worshipers
>>
File: IMG_20260806_213104.jpg (1.11 MB, 1397x1397)
1.11 MB JPG
Painting cloth and capes is so fun bros
>>
First off, thanks to OP for putting my mini in the collage.
Here's my second scout finished, once again it was fun playing around with acrylics and i'm happy with how the model turned out but disaster almost struck when I had to glue the arms to the torso (tried actual subassembly for the first time). I tried to apply cement glue to the parts I covered with blue tack but the latter is kind of a bitch to scratch and the whole process was messy. You can see the plastic got pretty rough and bruised around the arms joints but whatever. Next time I'll just brute force my way with super glue.
I'm still pretty satisfied and my phone doesn't make the model justice.
Now I'll varnish the model with Vallejo satin varnish (another anon advised me to go with gloss varnish but I don't have it), apply the decals and re-varnish again (I think i'll get Munitorum varnish but i'm not sure).
Anyway, sorry for the wall of text, hope you guys have a good night!
>>
>>98465412
Fantastic work on the face. I especially love the eyes. What scale is it?
>>
File: dante_revised01_lg.jpg (397 KB, 1280x1366)
397 KB JPG
>>98465760
>First off, thanks to OP for putting my mini in the collage.
You're welcome.

>Now I'll varnish the model with Vallejo satin varnish (another anon advised me to go with gloss varnish but I don't have it), apply the decals and re-varnish again (I think i'll get Munitorum varnish but i'm not sure).
Let us know how this goes for you.

I stupidly applied Mr. Super Clear Matt (sic) to my Lord Commander Dante model and had to go back in and repaint the highlights on the gold parts as it killed the metallic shine of the Retributor Armour.

If you find something that protects your model but doesn't turn Leadbelcher into grey, I'd like to hear about it.
>>
>>98465934
ntab I varnish everything with a 1:1 mix of matt and satin and the finish is nice for pretty much everything, including metallics
>>
>>98465934
i've never had a problem with paint coming off my minis. is there another reason to varnish?
>>
>>98465954
first I'd like to remind everyone here that in america varnish is for wood and we really shouldn't be using terminology from people without air conditioning. second the reasons to use a clear coat are to improve abrasion resistance, solvent resistance, and uv resistance. third if your paint is coming off the problem is with your prep or your application and nothing you put on top of it will fix it because the problem is underlying.

hope this cleared things up.
>>
>>98466003
shut the fuck up, retard
>>
>>98466031
you seem a little hot under the collar. maybe you should turn your thermostat down a little.
>>
>>98465788
Thanks anon.
It's a 75mm model.
>>
>>98465934
Lovely miniature anon.
And I'll try to keep you posted on the matt varnish ordeal. The only matt varnish I've tried is a Tamiya one which flattened the colors so much I swore I'd never touch it again.
Cheers
>>
If you are working with green stuff putty, should you be wearing gloves? Also, question about putty in general. Is there one type that does better at doing things like objects or edges? And others for more softer things like capes and cloths?
>>
>>98466281
no. I prefer to feel it so I know how sticky it is. Use water if it's getting sticky. Greenstuff is flexible and gradually loses flexibility as it cures, and still retains some, which makes it good for things like capes, hoses and stuff like that. I haven't tried it but I suspect milliput would just break easily in a lot of those cases.
>>
>>98466281
Fuckin' hypochondriacs.
In my day we had lead paint on the walls and asbestos in the attic.
>>
>>98466281
if you touch it with your bare hands you will get fingerprints on it
>>
File: 20260806_172451.jpg (242 KB, 1129x1413)
242 KB JPG
I'm gonna do my best to get this painted this month but I'm in a killer heatwave so not quite righy away
>>
>>98466281
unless you get any noticeable reaction (wich is very unlikely), no

>Is there one type that does better at doing things like objects or edges? And others for more softer things like capes and cloths?
greenstuff is gummy and a bit flexible before and after curing, so its harder to get sharp corner or edges with it, but an unsupported cape or sword will have a bit of give and be harder to break, milliput is more claylike so its easier to get sharp details it can slo be smoothed with a wet brush since it dissolves in water, it cures hard and kind of brittle, tamiya quick is very similar to milliput, more sticky and less 'grainy'
brown stuff is in between gs and milliput, and you can also mix gs and milliput in different proportions to get a middle ground

since gs can be hard to get now, i'd suggest you get milliput and tamiya and try them, both are cheap
>>
File: IMG_8372.jpg (892 KB, 2522x1536)
892 KB JPG
Lads I need opinions; I’m not super set on my white armor here. I do a black primer, then a white primer zenithal, then a drybrush of white on the model. The megaboss on the right then went with apothecary white contrast and is basically done. Zoggrok on the left got screaming skull basecoat, then agrax earthshade on the top and ratling grime on the bottom. Then I stippled screaming skull, a mix of screaming skull and white, then white
>>
>>98465954
>is there another reason to varnish?
Yes. Even on shitty eBay rescues, Like to have proper insignia, for which I use waterslide transfers. They're notorious for tearing or rubbing off if you havdle them the wrong way.

Addiotionally, I like to add scribbles to parchment, scrolls, and purity seals with a fine Sakura Micron pen. The ink works great on paper, ubt on a model painted with acrylic paint, it has a bad tendency to smear.
>>
>>98466570
Left looks pretty good.
>>
>>98466570
right looks gray and like a rock. left looks like really dirty white.
>>
File: Untitled-1.jpg (1.64 MB, 2000x1300)
1.64 MB JPG
Today's progress
>>
>>98466003
I have air conditioning though, can I keep calling it varnish?
>>
>98466599
don't samefag your shitty bait
>>
File: witch6_1.png (1.71 MB, 1600x1600)
1.71 MB PNG
Finished with another
>>
File: bee nid take 3 2.jpg (361 KB, 1044x1170)
361 KB JPG
I'm starting to really like how these are turning out.
>>
File: 1000005762.jpg (1.92 MB, 4000x3000)
1.92 MB JPG
>>98465121
Plasmancer sprue had his finger already broken. Does this read as lightning coming from the finger area?
>>
File: 1000005763.png (5.98 MB, 2100x3132)
5.98 MB PNG
>>98466955
Fuck me
>>
File: psychoamncer.png (138 KB, 438x448)
138 KB PNG
>>98466962
I'd recognize it as a spell of some sort yeah. Depends on how you paint it. I like Necrons also but I wish the Necron crypteks weren't so weirdly modeled. I feel like they are almost too spindly. How was it assembling that guy? I hear geomancer is quite annoying to put together too.
>>
>>98466985
This guy wasn't too bad. What I actually fucked up on was the Royal Warden, as I didn't push the spine through the stomach hole far enough, and then the Necron neck things didn't connect. Pretty annoyed about it honestly. I just ended up cutting them and decided he'll be fucked up forever.
>>
>>98466962
How do you utilize the green stuff to do this? Do you make a bit and let it cure for an hour or so before carving it?
>>
>>98467012
I used more of the yellow part so I could bend it and fuck with it as it cured. However, I think I used too much yellow, as it's still bendy after 48 hours. But I used my nipper to trim it with minimal hobby knife, as it was just too bendy. Used hobby knife on thicker and straighter finger part though.
>>
File: PXL_20260807_015236144~2.jpg (1.13 MB, 2250x3150)
1.13 MB JPG
>>
>>98467012
Make a frame out of wire.
>>
File: progress2.png (453 KB, 811x868)
453 KB PNG
traitor guardsman is coming along nicely
I think I'll do some segmented shoulder pads and a sashimono. Of course I do need to add some more spikes, maybe a belt buckle and some chaos greebles
>>
>>98467250
also I'm 50/50 on the gauntlet thing I did for the chainsword arm. Not sure if it looks good or not
>>
>>98467250
The mask is way more detailed than the rest of him.
>>
>>98467250
way too much detail on the mask imo
rest looks good so far
>>
>>98467250
That mask isn't going to print nice, need something heroic scale in detail
>>
File: screamer killer wip.jpg (329 KB, 3000x4000)
329 KB JPG
>>98466761
cool bug, anon
>>
>>98467263
>>98467266
>>98467306
couldn't find much in the way of masks and I'm nowhere near good enough to sculpt one myself
I was going to hit it with a smooth tool and delete some of the detail
>>
File: progress3.png (676 KB, 797x1090)
676 KB PNG
>>98467338
I think this should print fine?
>>
File: WitchsBand.png (1.46 MB, 1779x764)
1.46 MB PNG
Finally done the warband. Time to start all the monsters


>>98467360
Looks fine, just print it and see how it goes. Teeth might read a bit thin
>>
>>98467360
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3854103
they say 6mm but they are highly detailed for that, these heads are in your theme and will look/paint great at full size.
>>
>>98466962
looks like some kind of tentacle
>>
File: max mini.jpg (226 KB, 1200x1200)
226 KB JPG
>>98467438
Thanks! There are a handful of bits sellers with good bits for blood pact which match the aesthetic I'm going for. Artel W has some nice heads. Reptillian overlord has a few minis. I might try picrel.

Will definitely have to order some bits/stls to fill out a squad. Was thinking of making a unit of kasrkin maybe, not sure what would be most useful for a tank heavy list yet.
>>
>>98465720
great job!
very jealous of how smooth your blending is. Motivates me to keep getting better on my own cloth
>>
File: FauStyk.jpg (1.27 MB, 3024x4032)
1.27 MB JPG
Behold! The Demon Prince Fau'stek the Fell, hatefully beholden in deed and soul to the Master of the Soul Forge. Once a noble protector of the Memory Tree of his brother Astartes, he fell and burned in sacrifice that which he was sworn to defend to attain his ascension Daemonhood.
A lot of work to do still, particularly his wings and his base. Very proud of how his axe turned out. I'm having a blast painting him, its the first model that I've been inspired to give a name and lore and everything. Its been very fun thinking up a story behind the effort I'm putting in.
>>
>>98467558
Cool conversion. He’s a Daemon Prince of Vashtorr I assume?
>>
Anyone have an image that old Balrog painting tutorial? I think it was from White Dwarf.
>>
File: Defiler.jpg (1.5 MB, 3024x4032)
1.5 MB JPG
>>98467601
>Cool conversion.
Thanks! Its a 3D print tho, I cant claim kitbashing/converting as a talent of mine.
>He’s a Daemon Prince of Vashtorr I assume?
yeah
I like that there isnt too much lore on him so I can pretty much do what I want within the broad strokes. I got a Defiler I still need to base painted up in Vashtorr scheme too.
>>
>>98466650
>The squad has the flat one carry the banner
>>
File: 1666592349495204.jpg (33 KB, 493x386)
33 KB JPG
>>98467648
I appreciate the chuckle
>>
How does one paint scars? I wanna paint a lightning scar on the skin but don't know what Citadel paints to use or if I need to use multiple different paints like how ya do Night Lords lightning.
>>
>>98467963
mix a pink with your skintone and use that to pink scars, highlight as desired
unless it's a scar that's usually supposed to be covered, then use whatever you're highlight your skin with since faded scars are paler than the surrounding skin
>>
working on a mortis engine
>>
I need more primer but there's only gundam shops near where I live with japanese brand hobby bits

Are any of them good alternatives for citadel?

Heard Tamiya is good but they don't sell a black primer. Heard Mr. Hobby is also good but it's toxic.
>>
File: 1767528089510234.jpg (41 KB, 430x470)
41 KB JPG
>>98468016
>but it's toxic
only if you are a fucking weak ass chump
>>
>>98468016
If it's spray primers then they're all toxic. I use mr hobby through the airbrush and it works.
>>
>fretting about bio-hazard sticks a few threads ago
>resin is instantly necrotic to skin before that
>now we're worried about primer being toxic
good grief
>>
>>98468040
average age of the thread dropping dangerously low
>>
File: 20260807_123023.jpg (2.8 MB, 2524x4000)
2.8 MB JPG
Ragepainted the head, realise I gave it texture and gave up. Model is finished but. Doing the killteam next.
>>
>>98468040
Honestly tho if you aren't using a mask when priming you're asking for trouble, that shit can fuck you up
>>
File: 20260806_214703.jpg (1.52 MB, 3744x1941)
1.52 MB JPG
Finished my starcraft marines, at some point will go back to clean but im just trying to make a dent in my pile of shame.
Will base the entire army together when done.
>>
Question. I'm looking for some terrain instructions for historical things (between metal age to medieval stuff). Where can I find decent instructions/books for things like ruins, buildings or similar "arts and crafts" for historical settings?
>>
>>98467533
Thanks! Most of my blending is done by layering, sometimes smoothed out with glazes. All it takes is some patience, keep at it anon.
>>
>>98468040
Redditor "everything is toxic, you need a chemlab tier of protection to spray acrylics" is merely other side of retardation coin to your "resin is fine, frying fish is more dangerous". You are both fags.
>>
>>98468019
>>98468040
Dumbfucks it was a question

People online say it's way more toxic than regular primer as it's lacquer based instead of acrylic
>>
>>98468267
Which is true - lacquer fumes are not something you want to breathe in. Are these spray can primers or ones for airbrush? Because spray cans are easier to deal with since you can spray outside (if it's too cold, you can use some sort of thermal isolation like bubble wrap to keep can warm for longer). Once I tried applying lacquer primer by brush, years ago, ended up with serious dizziness and headache despite opened window so this is something I recommend to avoid.
>>
>>98465760
You’ve encountered the main problem with assembling after painting. I have yet to find a good solution but maybe someone else has one. I almost always assemble first for this reason. Painting before assembly is fine for display pieces but I’ve had bad luck when doing it with gaming pieces.
> another anon advised me to go with gloss varnish
That was me. Decals slide and lay down better on gloss surfaces. Conventional wisdom, which I agree with, is gloss, position decal, microsol (I don’t even bother with microset these days honestly), gloss again, and then matte everything. This creates the illusion of a painted on decal.

>>98466003
What if I’m an American without air conditioning?
> third if your paint is coming off the problem is with your prep or your application and nothing you put on top of it will fix it
Incorrect, and I’ll go one further and hypothesize that you don’t game and/or haven’t been painting for very long. You’re the autist that claims to have worked in a paint shop before, correct?
>>
Are these Golden Maple stuff any good or just cheap quality chinesium?
>>
>>98468432
i've been happy with the brushes i bought from them. fair price for the product offered in my experience, but i've only used their brushes.
>>
File: IMG_20260630_123857.jpg (3.3 MB, 4000x3000)
3.3 MB JPG
WIP on the Sagitaur conversion I'm working on. The pads are on myminifactory and I honestly like how it looks Vs the moon buggy, also as is with my entire army, they are all robobro's.
>>
>>98468267
Believe everything people tell you on the internet
>>
>>98468016
Tamiya is good.
Mr Hobby is good.
No rattlecan is harmless, stay outdoors when using them.
>>
>>98468058
I swear from the thumbnail looks like old Archaon on his horse
>>
>>98469052
I can see it anon, I can see it too.
>>
File: archaon lord solar.jpg (83 KB, 752x584)
83 KB JPG
>>98469052
Now that I think about it, archaon on horse is about the right size for a traitor guard Lord Solar proxy if you account for the tactical rock. Although I think his legs might be too beefy.
>>
>>98469114
>black knight
>white knight
Hmmm... print and paint miniatures for my old MtG decks to put on the summon cards when played?
>>
File: 1442737408710.jpg (133 KB, 800x830)
133 KB JPG
Alright chumps, what do you use to build up a hero rock for a character? Fantasy setting, mind you, so preferably no corkboard.
>>
>>98469327
Decorative rocks from "everything" store.
>>
>>98468267
the medium doesn't matter the part that fucks you up is the solvent and it's in acrylic cans too.

>>98468331
>What if I’m an American without air conditioning?
buy a window unit from shartmart they're only like $200
>you don’t game and/or haven’t been painting for very long
what makes you think picking up your space men off the table and putting them back down is a more strenuous test of paint adhesion than being tossed around on the ground outside or being shoved in and out of a holster hundreds of times? you have galapogos syndrome and if you looked outside the hobby context or even just the gw dominated hobby context you would realize you are wrong.
>>
>>98469327
>Fantasy setting, mind you, so preferably no corkboard.
Corkboard coated in putty gives pretty nice granite-y rocks
>>
>thinking about buying a few busts and 75mm minis
has painting larger scale minis improved your skill as a painter?
>>
>>98465954
varnish provides uv protection, wear protection, and evens out the gloss providing a uniform finish. That's why we choose between matte, ultra matte, satin, gloss, semi-gloss etc. varnishes. Some areas could be done in one and others in another of course.
>>
>>98469656
>varnish provides uv protection
Does it?
>>
File: Chorf wip 14.jpg (134 KB, 1228x599)
134 KB JPG
Never felt better laying so little paint on models.
I dread the moment I'll have to paint the babylonian ones.
>>
>>98469727
depends on the type. Not all but some offers it, Mr Color has a UV Cut line that i use on my gunpla
>>
File: TacticalSlate.jpg (3.58 MB, 1840x4000)
3.58 MB JPG
>>98469327
If you live in europistan, you might have a Tedi nearby. Decorative slate is great
>>
File: Capture.jpg (165 KB, 1684x1591)
165 KB JPG
>>98469727
Some varnishes do, and they will usually tell you.
>>
File: patrick star.jpg (983 KB, 1920x1080)
983 KB JPG
>go to buy 1 mini
>oh well this looks cool too
>and this
>oh and a few paints
>and this is on sale too
>etc.
>$500 in cart
>>
>>98469593
> being shoved in and out of a holster hundreds of times
Are you seriously comparing acrylic paint with a baked-on epoxy finish? Because I coat my guns with Cerakote and Norrell’s moly resin, but I paint my army men with hobby paint. Different products and different applications, but I’m sure that you already knew that.

Speaking of which, did you ever paint cars?
>>
>>98469832
Don't be an impulse buyer, anon. Poor self control is the primary cause of a shit life.
>>
>>98469851
I'm not buying for half a week at least (don't want the packages to arrive while I'm not home) so I have some time to think about it

they're all cool though and I don't know what to cut
>>
File: IMG_3825.jpg (6.13 MB, 4032x3024)
6.13 MB JPG
Necromunda style board wip
>>
>>98469750
very nice. I've just started doing some hellblasters with a heat effect but messed up the first one and didn't get much of the middle orange/red section, went almost straight from yellow/white to red/black.
>>
>>98469327
Tree bark for reptiles can be modified as needed. In fact search outside for stuff like that, when camping at park, fishing etc put cool stuff in pocket, save for models
>>
File: pauldrons.jpg (1.51 MB, 2268x1852)
1.51 MB JPG
Some progress
>>
>>98470322
very nice weathering
>>
>>98469750
Looks great
>>
>>98469727
Yes, they all do, but some better than others. Especially polyurethane ones, not that we keep our minis in a lot of sunlight
>>
>>98470322
Looks great
>>98469901
Really cool
>>98468510
Kickass model
>>98468190
I love them
>>98468058
Great colors
>>98467982
Wow! That's huge. (That's what she said)
>>
>>98467558
Nice ax! (That's what she said)
>>98467419
Those are great!
>>98467360
Yeah Looks solid, just do good supports
>>98467315
Wicked!
>>98466302
I love the shield
>>98465412 >>98465389
Would. She cute
>>
I made a new much more realistic shader for my 3d paint bottles. The label's edges are too perfect, but that should be easy to fix and is probably the last thing holding it back.
>>
>>98470517
imagine putting all this effort into painting actual models
>>
>>98469850
no, you were the one implying that I don't know about wear because I don't touch my paint. if you really do cerakote you should know that if you skip surface prep or botch your application putting clear over it isn't going to fix the problems it's going to end up having.
>>
>>98470664
And you would know that we’re not baking our minis at 300F for an hour to make Vallejo cure properly.

I’ll ask again: did you paint any cars?
>>
File: 1693770348869834.jpg (996 KB, 1600x1193)
996 KB JPG
>>98468040
>>
>>98470701
The booth isn't venting through a filter and outside. He's going to die.
>>
>me, on my way to paint a little toy space soldier
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-j2VlzeFKL0
>>
>>98470681
we didn't do cars at our shop but my coworker did the front end of a truck in some goofy rainbow scheme for a customer. I don't know what point you are trying to make. whether you're painting a car or a magazine or a plastic army man the paint has to stick to the part. if it isn't sticking putting more shit on top of it is like trying to treat eczema with a bandage.
>>
>>98470721
terrible example, you literally treat eczema by putting lotions on top of it
>>
>>98470739
which fixes the problems that's causing the skin to flake off, not just trying to tape it down and calling it fine.
>>
File: me-when-the.webm (827 KB, 960x540)
827 KB
827 KB WEBM
>when the water based paint gets through all 3 of your rubber gloves
>>
File: IMG_20260807_224658603.jpg (1.43 MB, 2844x1840)
1.43 MB JPG
>>98466650
Very crisp, great work anon !


I miss painting smooth marines with none of those extra details
>>
File: 1666535041025431.png (241 KB, 329x294)
241 KB PNG
>>98470769
>>
>>98470701
>>98470717
>>98470769
Having a melty today I see.
>>
you know a thread is full of retarded poorfags when they cry about ppe
>>
>>98470772
god these marines look like dog shit.
You did a great job painting them, the banner is sweet, the writing and heraldry patterning is great.
but shit all those extra details make a terrible mini
>>
>>98470789
ironically it's usually people old enough to have had actual lead poisoning while growing up
>>
>>98470880
>lead poisoning or T levels below 200 ng/dl before 30th birthday
call it
>>
>>98468331
>You’ve encountered the main problem with assembling after painting. I have yet to find a good solution but maybe someone else has one. I almost always assemble first for this reason. Painting before assembly is fine for display pieces but I’ve had bad luck when doing it with gaming pieces.
Yeah, I'd be glad if some anons shared some experiences with subassembly because mine was pretty traumatic lol
I feel like using a black primer would help with the most hidden parts of the miniatures but I almost always use Grey Seer to apply contrast paints as basecoat and reaching all the crevices is a pain without making a mess. Thanks again for the advice on decals
>>
>>98470894
optimistic timeline
>>
File: Magnet Tactical.jpg (2.68 MB, 6048x4032)
2.68 MB JPG
>>98465760
>>98468331
>>98470894
>subassembly
not helpful to most people, just me wanting to share and show off. I ran into a lot of the same issues because I cant let go of painting the nooks and crannies where no one will ever see. But now I can re arm my marines. Or promote them for my narrative campaigns.
>>
File: nurgle_chaos.jpg (156 KB, 628x858)
156 KB JPG
What are you painting this Friday night? I am probably going to work on my some Necron units or Chaos Space Marine tacticals. I don't have any real annoited. Do you think I could kitbash one from a regular CSM if I added like a tentacle arm or something?
>>
>>98470721
My man, I get that you used to push a brush around a paint shop and this makes you an expert because autism, but you’re applying knowledge of one thing to something else entirely. Yes, surface prep is important, but acrylic paints behave nothing like heat cured phenolic resins. Try gaming with your uncharted minis for a year or two and you’ll see what I mean. Would this be necessary if they’re display pieces? No, although still a good idea. Would it be necessary if I was shooting them with molyresin? No, that’s made for gun parts. But we’re talking about acrylic paints here that are thinned for usability and formulated to dry fast. They are not made for, and do not provide, the level of durability that a heat cured resin would. Additionally they’re handled, dropped, packed into and out of boxes and in general spend a lot of time being rubbed, which will eventually remove acrylic hobby paint regardless of surface prep.

You’re going to disagree with me because your autism prevents you from realizing that you’re wrong, but this is well known to people that play games. Even the ones that shoot paint for a living and know about surface prep. The only people confused by this are the ones that don’t game. So instead of arguing here about a hobby that you don’t engage in, why don’t you find a group and get a game in?
>>
>>98470981
paint is paint it's all just ground up rocks in some kind of medium. obviously some paints are more durable than others. I've seen tons of rustoleum camo jobs that look like total shit after being tossed around inside a range bag for just a few months, even though by miniature standards it's way tougher than anything citadel makes. the point that you seemingly can't understand is that clear coat does not increase paint adhesion. it physically can't, because the paint that's (failing) to stick to the part is on a different layer than the clear. it will protect your mini from your nasty gamer sweat, it will protect it from being scratched when it bumps into other minis on the table, but if your paint is just falling off from being touched then it's not going to fix the problem that's causing that to happen.
>>
File: Nurglebigdude.jpg (1.92 MB, 3072x4096)
1.92 MB JPG
>>98470978
Finished the base on this guy
Kinda generic but I don't enjoy basing
>>
>>98471030
retard-kun...
>>
>>98471032
I like how the axe came out. I don't like basing either but I need to do it for a lot of my models. I never know what to really do though. I like to chose some type of base that helps the models overall color scheme.
>>
>>98471032
big fan of the flesh colors
saved for future reference
>>
File: dominar_semifin.png (347 KB, 480x640)
347 KB PNG
I actually really enjoy painting. The hardest part is assembly for me though. Some models seem so annoying to me. This one was simple with a open stance so it could be assembled as one and painted and not have to use sub assemblies.
>>
>>98471110
I just don't have those manual skills every artist seems to have these days, so every time I try to do something fancy it comes out like shit and I just lose the motivation. Even basic shit like corks+pigments comes out horrible.
Thank you for the Axe, I used the rust thingy from whatsitsname company and then drybrushed some leather brown on it
>>98471121
Thanks, I tried to copy what GW does for its ghouls, unfortunately forgot the recipe but I should be able to redo it in the future.
>>
>>98471145
>unfortunately forgot the recipe but I should be able to redo it in the future.
I've started to keep a little diary after an anon here suggested it. Makes me feel warm and fuzzy that if I decide to expand an army in 10 years Ill know exactly how I painted the OGs
>>
>>98470769
Nobody uses watercolors to paint minis. We use acrylics, which are plastics.
>>
>>98471163
the solvent is still water, thus they are called water based
>>
>>98471303
They're called acrylics actually.
"Water based" is just something some manufacturers write on some bottles to advertise to retards.
>>
File: Untitled-1.jpg (1.55 MB, 1800x1250)
1.55 MB JPG
finished the Royal Herald
>>
>>98471335
turn the fucking AI filter off your camera or use opencamera
>>
>>98471310
They water based acrylics, anon. That's why you can thin the paint and clean your brush with water instead of spirits.
>>
>>98471310
acrylic defines the polymer, not the solvent, it can be acrylic and not water based
>>
>>98471353
I can thin my paints and clean my brush with alcohol. This is not relevant.
Acrylics are acrylics, watercolors are watercolors.
Calling acrylics waster based paint is retarded, especially in the context of trying to minimize toxicity.

>>98471387
Literally my point.
>>
>>98471390
>Acrylics are acrylics, watercolors are watercolors.
He didn't say watercolors, he said water based paint. The acrylic paints generally used in mini painting are water based. Stop talking and look it up.
>>
File: Untitled-2.jpg (2.15 MB, 1875x1500)
2.15 MB JPG
>>98471347
>>
>>98471032
Cool, I like this guy
>>
>>98471409
And he was wrong, they're not water based paints, they're acrylics, aka plastic based paints.
I don't know to look up that there's water in acrylics, everyone knows that, you dumb acrylic eating fuck.
>>
File: Nurgleinsect.jpg (2.02 MB, 3072x4096)
2.02 MB JPG
>>98471421
Thanks
Also a funny picture from a wip, this weird insect some nights ago got obsessed by the death guard sorcerer, was walking up and down the staff
>>
File: 20260807_193756.jpg (2.55 MB, 3000x3000)
2.55 MB JPG
a few more touches and I can prime this guy then forget he exists for a year or so
>>
>>98471422
Water based and oil based refers to the solvents used in the paint. Acrylic paint can be either water or oil based, acrylics being a polymer has no baring on that. The way you can tell hobby acrylics are water based, is the fact that they dissolve in water, allowing you to use water to dilute the paint and clean your brushes.
Now go troll some other thread.
>>
>>98471500
>zimmerit
>metal barrel
Tremendously based.

>>98471335
>>98471418
Lovely stuff as always!
>>
>>98471500
i like the zummerwaffleplate or whatever the hell its called. I think that'll look real neat once its painted up
>>
>>98471535
oil paint is called that because it's made out of linseed oil. the solvent for it is mineral spirits. there are alcohol based acrylic paints like the mr. hobby aqueous line.
>>
>>98471688
Yes anon, there are. But most of us use water based acrylic paints.
>>
>>98471739
ok but there are no oil based acrylic paints and oil paint is called that because the the medium, not the solvent. it sucks being wrong but this is an anonymous website so no one will know it was you anyway.
>>
>>98471762
I'm not wrong, they're called oil based paints, not spirit based paints. Take it up with the rest of the world if you disagree with the naming scheme.
>>
>>98471811
>oil based refers to the solvents used in the paint
this was wrong. you are wrong. just give up and pretend it was someone else posting already.
>>
I think this is done
>>
File: Birdgoys2 (1).jpg (7.73 MB, 10000x8000)
7.73 MB JPG
Finished my kroot killteam. This was the second kit I've ever painted and I think they turned out alright.
Only two I wasn't happy with were the heavy gunner and the dude next to him. The dude with the entirely red cape was the first one in the kit I painted and I didn't really know how I was gonna paint all of them to sort of match so I just winged him, definitely overdid it on the wash with him.
I am currently learning how to do bases with foliage and whatnot so maybe in the future I'll do that to these guys.
I pre-ordered the new spectre killteam so that'll be the next kit I work on, but until then I got an enginseer to paint.
>>
>>98471940
i like the patterns on the capes/ponchos. very nice
>>
File: HPBr53ObUAA7rrM.jpg (1.23 MB, 3840x2160)
1.23 MB JPG
painted some more mechs.
>>
>want to add chains
>hell to paint underneath chains
ugh
>>
>>98471940
the level of detail is great but they look a little sandy. it's not all over so I'm not sure it was the primer.
>>
>>98472570
I assumed it was the varnish but it probably is just the primer. I have to use brush on primer because my family doesnt want me to use a spraycan anywhere inside and I cant really use them outside because I live in florida and its humid as balls 24/7.
>>
>>98471940
damn I'm looking at this more and aside from the messiness it's really impressive. there are so many great details like the guy with the bleeding bullet hole in his armor and the arrows in the bow gun guy's quiver having different colored stripes. all of the little features are colored, from the snaps on their pouches to the trinkets on their head spikes. I feel like this justifies my belief that painting all of the details that exist on the model does way more for making it look interesting than artificial tricks like overdone edge highlights.
>>
How do I know if my paint is thinned enough without ever touching my skin or a glove?
>>
>>98472664
animal testing
>>
>>98472664
test it on your glans
>>
File: 200w (9).gif (691 KB, 200x266)
691 KB GIF
>Find video tutorial on a niche color scheme idea
>The man brings out an air brush
>>
>>98472678
What does a color scheme have to do with an airbrush?
>>
>>98472691
Because I wanna use a brush and follow the steps.
>>
>>98472678
>>/40kg/
>>
File: bottle_v2_03-looped.webm (1.12 MB, 614x816)
1.12 MB
1.12 MB WEBM
>>98472693
You can probably get the same results without an airbrush if you want, every youtuber is going to use one because it's a little more convenient but most things can still be brush painted.


The base shader for the bottle is finally done (lid is just an untextured placeholder) to a degree that I'm happy with. Needs the randomization options still but this is good enough.
>>
File: HPHjcsxaYAALnEa.jpg (1.34 MB, 3840x2160)
1.34 MB JPG
Got these done the other day.
>>
>>98472837
the guy in the middle looks like he has a big mechanical schlong
>>
>>98472902
its curved downwards like mine
>>
>>98472902
it's a codpiece.
>>
File: IMG_20260808_083939.jpg (1.32 MB, 2160x2185)
1.32 MB JPG
I'm preparing some priests of Ulric .
>>
>>98467126
Why though
>>
File: IMG_8650.jpg (2.13 MB, 3024x4032)
2.13 MB JPG
Starting my avatar, playing around with reds and yellows, and thinking about metal types for the armour. Does anyone know what the best way to paint a smokey/soot stained look? I think the ticket is going to be a hyper matte finish, but I figure there might be a good product specifically for that.
>>
>>98465389
woah how'd you do that?
>>
>>98471886
oh goddammit fine
*unzips*
>>
>>98472693
>>98472678
>Because I wanna use a brush and follow the steps.
TRANSLATING... TRANSLATING
>I don't know how to come up with my own colour schemes or reverse engineer a colour scheme. I need my hand held through every step.
ftfy
>>
>>98472678
post the video
>>
>>98472678
watch the video, think about what you like about what he did. Then take your brush and do what you think would be good. I believe in you
>>
>>98472678
Get an airbrush then, duh.
>>
>>98472941
Best looking model from Storm of Chaos. Love it even though the abilities & prayers were shit.
>>
>>98473270
>>98473291
>>98473328
>>98473333
it's literally a shitpost, stop engaging
>>
>>98473376
Yeah, it's a shit post.
>>
>>98471141
looks great. I too hate assembly. Most 3d printed minis are a single piece and that I appreciated.
>>98472837
beautiful!
>>98472941
metal rocks. Love the headdress
>>98473045
that already looks really cool
>>98470517
Would buy! Make it real!
>>
>>98472828
Looks so real. I want dat paint
>>
File: soijak forgefiend.png (307 KB, 785x810)
307 KB PNG
What else should I add to my Emperor's Children forgefiend head? I'm already going to add some dangling wires and tubes under his chin
>>
>>98473571
The GW noise marines all have little canisters attached to their weapons, maybe you could add a pair of those sticking diagonally downwards from either side of the head?
>>
>>98473595
oh god no when did they ruin noise marines
do they all have doom sirens or whats with the backpacks
>>
>>98473599
They look fine to me, what's wrong with them?
>>
>>98473633
>speaker
yes a doom siren and they all have it for some reason
and i disagree they dont look good at all but thats enough of siderailing the thread on my part
>>
>>98472049

Good looking techs, anon.
>>
File: soijak forgefiend1.png (334 KB, 785x810)
334 KB PNG
>>98473595
good idea but there's not much room so I can only fit one
>>
>>98471030
I’d tell you about how to paint with dry pigments but your mind might be blown to the point of an actual ruptured aneurysm, and I don’t need that on my conscience. Google it if you’re feeling adventurous, but be ready to summon immediate medical assistance. When your brain is literally bleeding out, seconds count.
>>
Can't believe I slept on historicals for so long, prob $10 for all these and the kit is fun to build, like old warhammer
>>
File: Necroplasm_C16_115.jpg (311 KB, 672x936)
311 KB JPG
>>98472957
>>
>>98473571
>>98473595
Put the cannisters along either side like the spiked 'ears/frills' of a dragon
>>
File: 20260808_170657.jpg (1.12 MB, 1598x1332)
1.12 MB JPG
>>
>>98473767
dry pigments is from the same school of memes as using a pencil for panel lining
>>
>>98472837
Space Pope flanked by 2 Space Swiss Guard and his funky court dancers
good job, anon, but those unpainted and bare bases make Space Jesus cry
>>
>>98473184
Used a free photogrammetry app called realityscan.
There are paid things in it I think, but I don't know what they are.
>>
>>98471500
Gyat dayum, but I know how you feel. Last major cleanup job I did I just put the mini away for 6 months after I primed it I was so sick of it.
>>
Dear /wip/.

Honest question - how to regain the joy of painting little dudes? I have entire box filled with primed and ready to paint Infinity minis, equally large number still before assembly. I remember how fun it was to paint them, how satisfying it was to look at finished ones. And yet I either feel indifference or repulse or frustration while doing that, especially with all those numerous tiny details. I only painted four minis this year! I really don't know what to do with that now.
>>
>>98474519
Sounds like you stopped learning new ways of how to paint your little dudes. Check out some wildly different techniques, learn them, and you'll start enjoying it again.

Then again, army painting is a fucking drudgery, which is why scale models are better.
>>
>>98474519
The answer is 75mm and busts, or other display models.
>>
>>98465412
Wow that is some of the best nnm I've seen. The continuity of that light bar between segments is so good looking.
>>
>>98474519
I find two strategies work well for me - the first is to just stop. Eventually (months, usually) I'll start to feel the itch to paint again and then coming back to it fresh is a joy. The second is to force myself to do a little bit every day, 20 minutes to an hour, lay down a coat, do a wash, touch something up, etc. and the momentum/progress ends up energizing and motivating me.
>>
>>98474576
Thanks anon. It's definitely my best model so far.
>>
>>98474519
I sit down at my painting table with a tray of finished minis and just admire them for a while. It usually works to get me started since I’m already at my painting table. Otherwise it’s nice to look at your completed work.

A lot of the time I notice a flaw and have to fix it or else it will drive me crazy
>>
>>98474519
Unironically giving a fuck. Just pick out the detail you want to pick out and leave the rest at the mercy of basecoat + wash. Give yourself a time limit of 1 hour.
>>
>>98473973
badass griffin
>>98473792
no doubt, I prefer historicals myself, you can get any era and it's cheap and fun, you can study uniforms and history and stuff and learn while you paint
>>98474519
Painting is meditation. It's not supposed to be exciting, it's supposed to be relaxing, a time to zone out, put on some musack and attack dat.
>>
>>98474533
There truth in that since I recall a lot of excitation from trying new stuff with other models but techniques are limited in number so I will run out of those at some point.

>>98474559
Because of size of details?

>>98474950
>>98474969
Actually, each time I paint, I cannot really "stop giving a fuck" so to speak. Sometimes I have to take a break solely because elevated heart rate and shaking hands from trying to do it as best as I can prevents me from going forward.

Thanks to other anons
>>98474691
>>98474842
>>
>>98475101
>but techniques are limited in number so I will run out of those at some point.
If you plan on actually learning these techniques well and not just knowing they exist, you'll die of old age before that happens.
>>
>>98475101
>Actually, each time I paint, I cannot really "stop giving a fuck" so to speak
You have to learn. Every artist has to learn this or burn out.
>>
>>98472546
>paint model
>paint chains
>glue chains
>wash
>>
File: IMG_20260808_212217~2.jpg (318 KB, 1290x874)
318 KB JPG
Ten thousands whips on bare ass to whoever designed Mr Hobby absurdly tall bottle for cement. I accidentally knocked it over and destroyed large part of Farsight mini. One of jumpjets is completely melted, two small wings glued to paper towel. This is disaster.

I want to whip myself or something, I wanted to bring this particular model to exhibition next year but now, no matter what I do, it will look like piece of junk.
>>
File: 986765435465758.png (1.12 MB, 1795x417)
1.12 MB PNG
Tank crew for my current project. The baneblade is ready so far, now I'm modelling five dudes from the crew (plus the guy on the machine gun in OP's collage).
>>
>>98475239
that fuckin suuucks, I'd be bummed as hell
>>
File: 20260808_211305.jpg (599 KB, 1567x1928)
599 KB JPG
I'm going to raise all the skeletons!
>>
>>98475239
Congrats you can now paint it as if its been battle damaged and equipment literally melting from overheating
>>
File: IMG_20260808_223149~2.jpg (762 KB, 2425x1499)
762 KB JPG
>>98475412
One jet was spared from melting, actually. Other is melted from one side. I guess I could pretend it was hit or something like that but how to sell it properly?

I still feel that it cannot be salvaged.
>>
>>98475239
We can't replace it?
>>
>>98475486
3d modeler might have an stl for the damaged parts, how expensive would it be to buy a new one?
>>
>>98475398
Looks great fren
>>
>>98475534
I would need to buy entire new model.

>>98475545
200 PLN, approx. Translate to around 45€.

I didn't even planned to play it, I just liked design and wanted to paint one.
>>
>>98475583
Do you have a paypal or something? Maybe we could pitch in and lessen your cost
>>
File: ghouls.jpg (525 KB, 1678x1120)
525 KB JPG
>>98475398
best i can do is some ghouls and cultists
>>
>>98475601
I appreciate the offer but I think it would be better to figure out what can be done with it, now that emotions calmed down. Like that idea of "selling" battle damage from partially melted metal. Or, since it's outer side, to cover it with some sort of weathering so nobody will notice.
>>
>>98475636
Give it time to harden and polisjph it with sanding paper, you can smooth out most of the damage, also check ebay, somebody may have a partially finished one you can scrape for parts
>>
>>98475486
I have Saturn 4 Ultra 16k and I print regularly. I also live in Pepikland right next to you. Find me an .stl file (don't need to be supported) with the parts you want printed, pay for the shipping, and I can print it and send it to you.
>>
>>98472599
Thanks! I have shaky hands so it takes a lot of concentration to not mess up the small details, but I think the more I paint the better I'll get at it.
>>
File: 20260809_094753.jpg (2.35 MB, 4000x2496)
2.35 MB JPG
They ain't a nothin but sum hound dauwgs
>>
>>98475583
>>98475636
do a 2 model diorama where the other one is blasting the fucked up side with a flame attack or acid or something
>>
>>98475761
We can teach you about shakes. Father taught me. Leaning forwatd with forearms against edge of table helps a lot, some people lean back in good chair and rest arms on chest but easierto tip backwardsas fall or break chair that way so be careful. Either way this is called bracing when forearms are supported by table or chest. Both arms work together, one holds mini, other the brush, the hands are brought together and cup each other while holdimg stuff close together like you are holding a gun or delicate bird, and fingers spread as needed each hands fingers supporting the other one to creat a springy action that can be mobile but sturdy when needed, this is called bridging. It's easy to show, hard to explain. Watch master Embs' hands, he bridges perfectly. http://embscomputerart.com/miniature-painting-instructional-videos/
>>
>>98475812
Elvis would be proud
>>
>>98475101
>Because of size of details?
you just open yourself up to a lot more models that might inspire you to want to paint them.
>>
It’s been a year since I started mini painting, and it seems like the only thing I’m getting better at is coomer skin. Other than skin, I have no fucking clue how to do NMM, highlighting, OSL, shading whatever
>>
>>98475888
That all looks good. To learn that other stuff get some chesp minis fir practice and try a lot of different things, like make on look metal, another a lot of highlights etc, once you have experience you can incorporate into your good models which already look good by the way
>>
>>98475888
>after a year
fuck man, after like 10+ years of being a hobbyist im garbage compared to that. Like my goon models are nothing compared to yours.
Also i really like how you did her hair and her top.
>>
>>98475888
Art is hard. Almost all the people that are good at it grind for decades.
>>
File: yuan yuan wip 1.png (274 KB, 407x465)
274 KB PNG
The faces on old infinity models are so fucking tiny, even with a magnifier and these zoomed in pictures I'm still not sure if there's actually a mustache sculpted on this guy or if I just misinterpreted some folds around his lip
>>
>>98476033
I like the stasche
>>
>>98475888
nice trips and skin
>>98476007
>Art is hard. Almost all the people that are good at it grind for decades.
thats relieving to hear
>>
>>98475907
nta, I honestly believe most mini painters could become as good as the best mini painters within a year or two.
The only thing you need is to keep trying to improve your advanced skills like eyes, nmm, volumetrics, etc. You will get better at the stuff you try to improve on. You also need to be willing to put over a hundred hours into single minis, and paint multiple of those 100 hour models every year between practice models.
>>
>>98475888
Believe it or not, coomer skin is still good practice. If coomer models keep you painting then more power to you.
>>
>>98476083
It's similar to training a muscle. You absorb the theory, then try really hard, then take a rest period to let it all sink in before repeating the process. You can speed up the process a bit through practicing deliberately instead of just doing a lot of work. By deliberate I mean, don't just repeat, but analyze what you're doing, what your failures are, and how to improve.

Enjoying art is almost required to keep up the practice, and having a muse helps with enjoyment. In normal terms, drawing/painting sexy girls is motivating, use that fact to your advantage.
>>
>>98476144
>what your failures are, and how to improve.
Ill start paying more attention to that. Again, thanks.
>having a muse helps with enjoyment
I noticed that a while ago went I started thinking and writing lore for my armies and models. Now its grown into a whole notebook of lore brainstorming and doodles.
>drawing/painting sexy girls is motivating
I've yet to paint a goon model, I'll look around for a model. See if i'm inspired or not.
>>
>>98476190
>I've yet to paint a goon model, I'll look around for a model.
If you don't have motivation problems, you don't have to. But generally; sexy girls keep male oogabooga brain's attention.
>>
>>98476239
>But generally; sexy girls keep male oogabooga brain's attention.
I am an immeasurably better painter now than I used to be because of this, and the skills do help me when I paint non-coomer models as well.
>>
>>98476254
Yeah, it's just biohacking, lol. Hijacking the brain's reward system to get work done.
>>
>>98476292
This is why I hallucinate having an anime wife who relies on me. If it weren't for her I would let myself just bed rot into homelessness but because of her I have to keep going and hold myself together.
>>
>took me like 1hr just to get the eyes in the right spot
The right eye on this head is impossible to paint. Anyways, what color should I do for the hair?
>>
>>98476455
>Anyways, what color should I do for the hair?
Magenta-purple.
>>
>>98476457
I’m already using magenta and purple in my scheme for the cloth though
>>
>>98476477
>>98476455
What about pure white? Much akin to SoB hair. I think it would match the skin and the purple cloth
>>
>>98476455
leave it black with a white streak
>>
>>98475398
Nice work! What's the mini?
>>
File: dynamic_labels.webm (532 KB, 584x778)
532 KB
532 KB WEBM
hehehehe
>>
>>98476033
Well, it looks like a moustache now at least.
>>
>>98476654
Nice, how are the fluid physics?
>>
File: treasure.jpg (1.08 MB, 3000x1000)
1.08 MB JPG
made a new treasure token as a break
>>
>>98476654
Please, I'm begging you to paint your models.
>>
Taken before I ruined the pauldron with crappy freehand
>>
File: witch7_1.png (2.04 MB, 1200x1200)
2.04 MB PNG
These seem perfectly reasonable
>>
>>98476699
They're very smooth.
>>
>>98476669
Lovely stuff.
>>
>>98476691
diarrhea base. why?
Show the pauldron coward
Otherwise its got a real nice vibe to it. I really dig the choppiness of the colors
>>
>>98476701
for you
>>
>>98476699
Anon, if you want to win my eternal approval, make the next one's sway with the movement of the body.
>>
How do I get surfaces to be gunky and crusty like this? Is this a texture paint? Glue and sand?
>>
>>98474123
>i don’t understand it so it’s not valid
Gotcha. Next you’re going to tell me that oil washes are a meme. You’re proving some points to the audience but they may not be things that you wanted to prove.

There are people that use pigments though, and not just for weathering. The more interesting question is how to fix a colorant that has no media to cure, but merely a solvent to flash off (maybe). There’s a proven technique for this but it invalidates your argument. In the unlikely event that you haven’t already googled this since I mentioned it to you and don’t already know that answer, would you care to take a guess at it?
>>
>>98476688
ignore this guy. model your models in blender and paint them on your computer.
>>
>>98476726
>>
>>98476758
>The more interesting question is how to fix a colorant that has no media to cure, but merely a solvent to flash off (maybe).
you can't which is why it's a meme like using a pencil to panel line or using a sharpie to color in a ding on a blued steel part. you think you are being clever but you aren't.
>>
>>98476654
>>98476688
>told to paint models
>models paint instead
Truly this anon is a menace.
>>
File: sensible-chuckle.gif (358 KB, 220x220)
358 KB GIF
>>98476934
picrel
>>98476859
It's totally possible to fix pigments in place without ruining the effect. Just like it's possible to fix sharpie in place.
Pencil on the other hand, that's much more difficult. Though you wouldn't know, since you think pencil is for panel lines, when it is actually usually used for metallic paint chips. You don't know shit about what you're blabbering about, and you need to post models to prove me wrong.
>>
>>98476934
You jest but anon admitted to having not painted anything /tg/ in 6 years, painting busts wasn't rustling enough jimmies so anon has moved further off-topic
This is what happens when a bunch of faggots ITT insist the gate not be kept, every inch forgiven will be another mile lost.
>>
File: screamer killer shell.jpg (341 KB, 3000x4000)
341 KB JPG
>>98476851
Some of us are just kind of shit at basing/don't want to spend money on tiny plastic shrubbery.

At least we all know what the weather is like on planet Diarrhea.
>>
>>98476953
That's not true. I painted a space marine in December!
>>
>>98476968
I'm very unhappy with the blue on this one, brush was not dry enough, planning to go back over with blue then gold again.
Potentially unpopular opinion: If a kit is going to be mono-pose I don't mind the snap-together builds where no glue is required. It's not like you can't just cut it all down and do what you like with it, I remember anon kitbashed those flying nid primes into warriors.
>>
>>98476971
Fuck off, you're only here because other spaces laugh at you.
>>
>>98476457
I decided to just fade in the magenta
>>
>>98476993
That looks pretty awesome.
>>
>>98476987
Anon really only gets praise because he's working at 75mm+ I don't think the "skill" translates to 28mm, really leaning on that expanded scale.
>>
File: 10942.jpg (1.93 MB, 2256x4000)
1.93 MB JPG
>>98476726
>Why
Because the base is a WIP.

Here's the pauldron
>>
>>98476699
>>98476748
seconded
the tits already look great. The only remaining step to perfection is the implication of jiggle physics
>>
>>98477036
What basing material is that?
>>
>>98477025
75mm and busts are harder than 28mm
>>
>>98477051
This isn't true. It's much easier to get an equivalent level of detail on a 75mm figure or a bust when compared to a regular mini.
>>
>>98476993
looks metal.
>>
>>98477060
Except an equivalent level of detail will look worse at 75mm. Especially since these are painting projects and not wargaming pieces.

Not to mention there are things you have to consider at 75mm that you can safely ignore at 28mm, e.g. texture.
>>
>>98477182
It's easier to achieve a high level of detail on a 75mm figure, and it's easier to achieve a model that looks better on a 75mm figure. It's easier to apply techniques like texture on a 75mm figure vs a 28mm one.
"Safely ignore" is not useful when it comes to display painting, which are what 75mm figures and busts are almost exclusively.
It annoys me when commission painters are trying to sell 28/32mm paintjobs, but their portfolio is frontloaded with 75mm+ figures and busts, since those are much easier to make look nice.
>>
>>98476941
>Just like it's possible to fix sharpie in place.
ok now you're really memeing. what's next, you don't have to bake powder coat because you can just spray clear over it?
>>
>>98477223
>whats next, you don't have to [irrelevant example]
come on man, we're talking about miniatures
>>
Somebody should post a mini they're working on.
I can't because I don't have any right now, but somebody should.
>>
elminiturista just put out a tutorial for this and god damn
really makes me want to paypig for a slaaneshi army
>>
>>98477266
This is not the kind of daemon I would be summoning if I were summoning slaaneshi daemons.
>>
>>98477243
no we're talking about paint, and miniature paint isn't fundamentally any different from the paint on your car or on the walls of your room. let me remind you that this entire autistic argument that's been going on for months is only happening because some anons who get their painting info from sloptube insist that the solution to paint coming off is to just put more paint over it.
>>
>>98477273
what is it not gay enough for you?
>>
File: IMG_1060.jpg (1.46 MB, 4697x2794)
1.46 MB JPG
Didn't like them at first but the new stealth suits have grown on me
>>
>>98477287
Yeah, I wanted to get some back when that kill team came out but it was always out of stock and then I lost the impulse. Nice clean little hoof guys
>>
Agrellan Earth
>>
>>98476699
No leg? No head? No arms? Still would
>>98476752
Glue and dirt basically.
>>98476968
Nice bug
>>98477036
Good stuff
>>98477287
They cute
>>
>>98477273
unfortunately you don't get much of a choice
>>
>>98477287
oh hey the poopwalkers are back
>>
File: BBskavenrogre.jpg (203 KB, 2350x1524)
203 KB JPG
>>98477245
Rogre is getting ready to hit the pitch for the next game of my local Blood Bowl league.
He's a little big for his base, and he's gonna have another lad riding him. I think he's supposed to be a proxy for a bonebreaker in WFB (never played, unfortunately), but the printshop I bought him from scaled him up slightly larger. He should work fine for Blood Bowl too.
>>
>>98476595
Syraxus, Tombwrought Arcanist
>>
File: 1767765258892937.jpg (125 KB, 604x604)
125 KB JPG
>>98475888
>It’s been a year since I started mini painting
>this result
>mfw
its so fucking over for me
>>
>>98475888
In no way did you start a year ago and get this results. You remind me of this attention-seeking women on instagram who claim the same exact bullshit while presenting their tyranids or space marines (which were obviously painted by her boyfriend).
>>
>>98477266
If it is like other tutorials of his, even if you do make it into the same masterpiece as he did, it will look like garbage in a couple of months. His stuff is incredible, but short-lived.
>>
>>98477276
Post wip.
>>
i will spend the whole day batch painting shields and there is little you anons can do about it
>>
>>98471030
Varnishes don't just make up their current layer, they penetrate the previous layer binding it together while sinking even deeper increasing the binding power of the previous layer to the 9ne even deeper than that. That's part of the reason we classical painters varnish in between each layers, because besides creating a good bed for the next layer to sink into we can ensure the durability and strength of the previous layers preventing pigment loss when the painting begins to age. Varnish isn't a meme, its a classical technique.
>>
>>98477937
We can do stuff, stuff you wouldn't believe! :(
>>
>>98477937
I can ENCOURAGE you for spending time PAINTING your plastic like some HOBBYIST NERD
>>
>>98475706
I couldn't find STL but I still appreciate and thank you for the offer.

>>98475833
>>98475650
So I guess it's set - pretending it's battle damage from some heat-based attack.

When painting partially melted painted metal, should I add some special effects aside from leaving it gloss? Pure metal is usually marked by that blue-violet discoloration but no idea about painted one.
>>
Finally found a method for painting bases like I want them and did 30 chosen, 5 possessed and 4 random characters. Now I just need to paint the rims. It's really nice making progress on something that had bothered me for a while. Just need to do the trim now.
>>
>>98478034
Paint peels from heat, look up heat peeled paint and scorch marks on things like tool boxes or burned cars in image search for references
>>
>>98478038
Looks great fren
>>
>>98477741
do you store your minis in a vat of acid or something?
>>
>>98477736
It’s a nice model but it’s not that good man lol
>>
>>98478074
No, but fluo/glowing paints he uses are not lightfast, they are fugitive colors. Even if stored in ideal conditions (in a dark, airtight, temp. controlled container), they will gradually lose their glow and turn into greyish-brownish mess or into whatever pigment was used as a basis the moment you start exposing them to light.
If you keep them anywhere near sunlight (like a normal room), it will happen fairly fast (months). If you actually expose them to a direct sunlight, they start fading in days/weeks.

You can help it a bit with UV varnishes, but it's just delaying the inevitable.
>>
>>98478096
I've heard this a bunch, can someone provide some before/after pictures? I'm curious how they look after degrading.
>>
>>98478096
I think I'll wait until a professional artist weighs in on this.
>>
File: Fluorescent-3.jpg (174 KB, 1389x1059)
174 KB JPG
>>98478136
You can get artist comparison tables, like picrel. Mind you, these are still a lot better than hobby fluo/glowing paints. What happens is that they will lose their glow and start fading back to their base pigments. So, say, you used neon green glow for Necron weaponry. First, it will lose the glow, and then turn into a very faded (and often spotty, blotchy) grayish green.

>>98478147
lel
>>
File: file.png (3.82 MB, 2424x850)
3.82 MB PNG
>>98477245
primed them all
the ghostkeel is magnetized to be moveable
now to fuck everything up with a bad paintjob
>>
>>98478147
Profesional artist here. It's true, fluorescent paints fade in intensity pretty quickly, but if you varnish and keep them out of the sun it's fine. We usually use fluorescent as a glaze for the effect only, not as the main colorant. So like if we paint a torch we'll do white yellow orange red blue etc, then brighten again with touches of white, thrn glaze with a fluorescent yellow, done. So if the fluorescent fades it's still pretty bright because the white was underneath. The only thing lost is color intensity. It's easy to repair with another very thin glaze too.
>>
>>98478181
Nice army
>>
>>98477736
Anime skin is the only thing I'm above average at, I guess. Mostly because I keep painting the same mini over and over. Everything else is just metallic paint and brow wash, i don’t know how to do TMM
>>
>>98478096
Fluo paints aren’t lightfast but it’s not exactly a huge difference before and after especially if you varnish. Definitely not to the point of looking like garbage lol.

a decent chunk of hobbyshit fluo barely even contains fluorescent pigments
>>
>>98478295
Well yeah, but there's a world of difference between a white flat paper and three coats of thicc UV varnish, and a small, highly detailed 3D object that's supposed to simulate actual lighting. Besides, the point was that while Elminiaturista's models look incredible, it's a short-lived thing.
>>
>>98475888
>>98478242
Definitely look into guides for NMM and volumetric highlights. Your skin is great (though not 100% perfect), and your eyes are on point. This is a very promising start considering you've only been painting for a year.
>>
>>98478302
>there's a world of difference between a white flat paper
You undercoat white when painting fluo on minis almost every time
Flatness does not change the properties of the paint
>and three coats of thicc UV varnish
You can see the unvarnished example right there
>and a small, highly detailed 3D object that's supposed to simulate actual lighting
This has nothing to do with the properties of the paint.
>Besides, the point was that while Elminiaturista's models look incredible, it's a short-lived thing.
Which isn’t true
>>
Do hobby acrylic fluo paints even use special pigments?

I use the AK ones but they justfeel like just extremely thinned colours.
>>
>>98478329
>Which isn’t true
Do you speak from experience, or is this some theoretical debate for you? Because fluo paints not being lightfast is just a physical property, there's not much to debate here. What I'm saying is nothing new, really, you can find people saying the same thing ever since elminiaturista started being popular.
>Flatness does not change the properties of the paint
>This has nothing to do with the properties of the paint.
Blotching and inconsistent coverage = the biggest enemies of any gradient and/or OSL effects. It looks meh on a flat paper, but it will effectively kill any effect like that you have going on on a model.
>>
>>98478350
Are you speaking from experience or just talking out your ass? Fluo paints look 99% the same and if it looks like garbage after a few months in the sun it looked like garbage to begin with. Maybe if all you’ve seen is lazily applied shitadel.
>>
>>98478363
>I have no idea what I'm talking about
>But I must create an argument about it
I see you've been in touch with your feminine side lately.
>>
>>98478339
Both, some pigments do it naturally, some require an additive. A uv black light or bug zapper light can reveal them.
>>
>>98478377
It’s time to stop, shitposter-kun
>>
>>98478436
Then I might be retarded because I never even considered they might actually give that special effect, I always thought they were just especially bright and saturated paint named, hence the need to paint them over white, and treated them as such.

To be fair even Vinny V described them as such in his video about some fluo paints, never mentioning any special property or issue with long term exposure to light, instead just using them to pump up vibrancy on normal coats just like I do.
>>
>>98478539
*named 'fluo' for marketing reasons
>>
>>98478539
>they were just especially bright and saturated paint
Where do you think this saturation comes from, anon?
>>
>>98478339
>Do hobby acrylic fluo paints even use special pigments?
Trick question, there are no fluorescent pigments. They're all dyes which is why they are so fugitive. This has no effect on the paint consistency, they're likely just formulated thin because you'd only ever use them for glazing.
>>
>>98478582
Technically the dyes are made into pigments before being put into paint, hence why you can purchase the pigments separately
>>
File: IMG_20260809_093540.jpg (4.46 MB, 4080x2342)
4.46 MB JPG
The ultimate brush has arrived!
>>
>>98478737
wheyy crafty upgrading his tools
good on ya
>>
>>98478745
everyone is craftsperg now, so tiresome.
>>
>>98478768
except for all the professional artists!
>>
>>98478768
nah he recognized the unwashed 56% hands
>>
>>98478779
If you paint you get your hands dirty.
>>
>>98478779
>>98478768
no, it's the camera, that's his camera
>>
>>98478833
Based on what? The filename? That's just Opencamera.
>>
>>98478849
and the grain, that's craft-kun's grain pattern
>>
>>98478856
Okay there....
>>
>>98478863
oh dear, am I glowing again?
>>
Me? Pro artist.
You? Seething slopper.
>>
i havent posted my hands (or feet) on any chan in the last 20 years mainly because:
A. dont want anyone to know im actually black
B. dont want anyone to recognize me
>>
>>98478917
I was gonna say nobody would care that you're black, but then I remembered that guy a couple months ago who had a spergout at another anon for even mentioning they played with a black guy.
>>
>>98478917
You're not, just virtue signalling.
>>
>>98478941
Only craftsperg had some /pol/shit tendencies itt. And since he's some Amerimutt mystery meat, so it kinda checks out.
>>
>>98478971
Lmao, go back.
>>
>>98478991
Don't blame me for your ancestry, sperg.
>>
>>98478917
Why are you black?
>>
File: 01.jpg (346 KB, 1082x1080)
346 KB JPG
Pivoting from the bickering.
Anyone have project ideas that they're sitting on, but haven't pulled the trigger yet?
I'm thinking about making a diorama around this mini for a painting competition next year, but I need to go to one of my local print shops to get it made because I don't own a printer of my own (don't try to convince me to get one, I've considered it before).
The mini is just really evocative to me, I can imagine it using it's stilts to wade through dank swamps on long treks.
>>
>>98477982
this is totally wrong. did someone tell you this or did you just make it up? actual varnish will penetrate wood because wood grain is porous. clear coat will not penetrate paint because paint is designed to be impervious. just think about how stupid you sound for a minute. how pointless would it be to paint metal to prevent it from rusting if water could simply penetrate through the paint?

let me give you a real life example that shows how you are wrong: hydrodip film. if you don't know what it is it's basically a giant waterslide decal. just like waterslides there's nothing actually gluing it down, you just clear coat over it and hope it stays in place. if you have ever owned anything hydrodipped you would know this doesn't actually work and it's only a matter of time before it starts peeling and flaking. now maybe you are going to say "but my decals don't peel off," but that's only because you barely touch them. if you were using your mini as a keychain ornament or something you would run into trouble sooner or later.
>>
>>98479035
>paint is designed to be impervious
Most paint is not impervious.
>>
>>98479090
>how pointless would it be to paint metal to prevent it from rusting if water could simply penetrate through the paint?
>>
>>98479025
That is a cool mini, and I love doing swampy basing, sounds like a great project! I've been sitting on a large 30k Thramas multi-army project that I'm itching to get to, but I've promised myself to knock out a few minis lingering from other projects first.
>>
>>98479035 >>98479178
I'm a professional artist. I promise you varnish penetrates the layer of paint to which it is applied. Paint is not impervious or it would never oxidize or flake off and paint stripper wouldn't work.paint is just pigment with a binder. It's not magic. As an art restoration expert I can lift previous layers of varnish and paint as needed using rather mundance chemicals diluted to various strengths, do touchups and then revarnish to hide the changes and preserve the painting for a longer time. Canvas, wood, lead, plastic, resin, etc are all porous and acrylic medium us too. It's just latex and synthetic latex/vinyl, which means it breathes amd off gases and breaks down when exposed to air and sunlight. Varnish helps but it can't stop the process, but it provides strength to the paint and helps it to bind to the substrate by filling gaps left by air during painting and the gaps between the pigment grain. Some of the best artists in the world made aqueous paint without binder, water only, for rapid drying for demonstration purposes varnishing between layers to fix the paint, similar to how pastels are done, buildong up strong impasto. It's not advisable for long term paint durability, but it works. The technical mastery of the venetian method ensures a longer lasting painting because the priming layer is worked into the canvas and then hematite applied which absorbs later layers and vatnishes. In miniature painting our priming layer acts as the hematite and chalk layers providing tooth and an absorbant surface. This is why painting on titanium white is never advised. It's too slick and non absorbant. But chalky whites, earthy browns, and lead is perfect. I teach these things in classes if you are interested. $$$
>>
>>98479277
>I teach these things in classes if you are interested. $$$
weren't you dying of terminal illness last week?
>>
File: fabrics.jpg (330 KB, 1417x609)
330 KB JPG
Uncertain about the blue fabric. Might be too vibrant. Or maybe I need something punchy amid the drab once I get beyond a couple of units to stop the army looking too boring. Using the blue on guns an option too.

Plasma coil glow/heat not where I'd like it but first attempt I don't hate.
>>
>>98479277
you won't believe me even though I have posted proof before, but if you have a laser engraver you can burn paint off one layer at a time. there is no penetration. each layer sits on top of the other without intermingling. I don't give a shit what people painting with oil on canvas were doing 300 years ago. we are talking about modern polymer based paints on plastic. I have certifications in spray on coating application. I don't need classes from art school faggots.
>>
>>98479008
Projection at it's filthiest
>>
>>98479363
>a laser
this is pigment blocking photons, it's different than the chemical physics aspect of varnish penetration.
>>
>>98479363
Linseed oil is a polymer, how do you think linoleum is made?
>>
>>98479363
why would anyone come to finno-ugrian basketweaving forum middle aged mini painting sub section and try to throw their weight around with art school diploma
sure we are painting but we are painting silly little models not 2d paintings and surely not any masterpieces
>>
This is what you get when you start interacting with local schizos. Don't give them any attention, simple as.
>>
>>98479422
no I mean you use the laser to selectively burn through layered paint at different depths. for example you can paint blue over red over white and burn away the paint to make an american flag without using a stencil. each layer is fully intact underneath the ones above it. this wouldn't be possible if paint penetrated the layers below it like art maestro anon is claiming.
>>
>>98479518
you only need to burnt he pigments, not the medium and that can be done selectively with ease as an inherent part of how lasers work.
>>
>>98479518
Yes it would, paint is made of pigments of different densities, shapes, and sizes
>>
professional autist here
I fucking hate you dumb ass niggas for taking the shit bait and engaging with the nutcases EVERY SINGLE FUCKING TIME
>>
>>98479593
what bait?
>>
>>98479533
>>98479553
this is a laser set up to engrave steel, it's not "only burning the pigment." the entire layer is being removed.
>>
>>98479593
i dont mind the spergouts if they spice the thread a little bit and they have something to do with painting
many times some completely stupid and inane bullshit post have turned out to be an actual beginner who cannot tell his thumb from his big toe but managed to cook a shitstorm of /40kg/ magnitude
>>
File: defiler wip trim.jpg (898 KB, 1836x4080)
898 KB JPG
man that was a lot of trim and i gotta highlight it still but at least i did the clean up for when the brush went onto the plate itself ignoring for now the fact that i will have to do it on the weapons later, but at least went faster than what many people try to pass it off as
>>
File: IMG_20260809_135356.jpg (688 KB, 1390x1390)
688 KB JPG
>>98478737
A quick bit of freehand on a scrap of plasticard to try the new brush.
The bulk was done with my synthetics, just some finishing lines and cleaning edges with the new brush.
>>98478745
I will not upgrade my material though, but I think the other anons here are on to something and you just got a lucky guess.
>>
File: yuan yuan wip 2.png (973 KB, 1273x476)
973 KB PNG
I'm choosing not to question the logic in jetpack air intakes right next to long free flowing hair, although I think this technically isn't a jetpack anyway
>>
>>98478038
Man, the slaughterpriest with hackblade is such a cool mini, it makes no sense why GW took it OOP.
Solid work on the bases, anon
>>
>>98480049
FOMO as a business model only works if Missing Out is part of the business model.
>>
File: WIPterrainmarket.jpg (39 KB, 586x596)
39 KB JPG
Currently working on a scum market type terrain. Obviously a WIP and trying to make a gun shop. If it turns out well, might make a med-shop, slop-shop and so on. Depends on whether I can make it pop or my crippling depression gets in the way of everything.
Yes, the 'cloth/sheet' is a pepsi can
>>
>>98480049
>>98480085
R E C A S T
E
C
A
S
T
>>
>>98480292
good luck anon looking fine so far
i hear some people make pretty realistic cloth from pva soaked paper towels or actual canvas
>>
>>98478339
>>98478582
What are the fluo meant to be used as? Because I'm not sure if they're just paints made for glazing only or something else.
>>
>>98479939
>brush soap
I am not sure if I am misusing that product somehow or my cheap brushes just die quickly or both.
How do you use it? Like is there a technique on how to roll it or rub it on the soap for lather? Is lather not supported to reach the metal ferrule?
Does it make Tamiya's brush conditioning fluid I saw at a hobby shop that sells Tamiya and Mr. Hobby paints unnecessary?
>>
I need two tables for my miniature hobby. One for the hobby stuff like paints and supplies and another for airbrushing.
How are Aliexpress basic tables (no drawers) and how are magnets for magnetizing the bases of miniatures?
If anybody has bought a table and is satisfied can I get pics and a link to the vendor? Same for the magnets?
>>
>>98480566
my flgs owner of 30 years told me straight that its just a scam, dont waste your money just buy normal cheap non scented hair conditioner or a good i dont remember what kind of bar of soap and it will last you a lifetime
>>
>>98479962
>local pirate risks life and limb to loot faster
thats pretty in character brochacho
>>
IF THE SHORTAGE OF N25 3X2MM MAGNETS DON'T STOP SOON I'M GONNA ACT UP
>>
>>98480566
Soap is soap. It's just a lubricant that makes dirt, or in this case paint particles, slide off a surface more easily. You just want to use the right soap for the surface you're cleaning, which in this case is a bunch of delicate hairs.
That doesn't mean you need specific brush soap, any soap meant for hair will do. You just don't want something too aggressive, like dish soap, 'cause it'll make the hairs brittle.
>>
>>98479939
pretty cool freehand. The light placement is triggering me though, please pick a side.
>>
>>98480762
It's spess, light is from every side!
But really I didn't plan shit, just made it up as i went.
>>
File: witch7_2.png (1.91 MB, 1600x1600)
1.91 MB PNG
>>98476748
>>98477042
I'll try my best, but I'm no professional artist.
>>
>>98480618
>liquid hair conditioner
I can see that working. If you can ask about what kind of soap from your lgs owner I’d appreciate it. Hopefully the soap bar is better than hair conditioner.
I got brush soap because I saw that dr Faust tutorial and he also brought up a W&N brush cleaner I think but when I looked it up the recipe and container are changed so I’m not sure if for the better or worse.
>got two soaps one the small and other the medium
>>
File: slanus.jpg (103 KB, 873x755)
103 KB JPG
>>98480796
There's no planning involved.
Good freehand though, make more.
>>
>>98480729
Are those the best magnets for magnetizing minis?
Is one usually enough for a 32mm based metal model for upside down transport?
>>
>>98480871
You've clearly mastered boobs, push your limits, the world is yours!
>>
>>98476699
I have bought silicone shaper brushes because of you.
They and my ap greenstuff tools are what I have at the moment for greenstuff work.
Love your work.
>>
>>98476851
This reminds me of the brap dwarf mini painter. How does one avoid texture paste basing look like liquid poo?
>>
>>98480871
Anon, do some skindentation, it does wonders for any tits.
>>
>>98480883
>Are those the best magnets for magnetizing minis?
For plastic minis yes
>Is one usually enough for a 32mm based metal model for upside down transport?
Metal models are really heavy, you'd probably want 2 or one ideally one 6x2 which is enough for them hang upside down and never ever come off even if you shake them like crazy.
>>
>>98480883
>n25 3x2mm
not even close for a plastic model, that's an arm magnet

for a metal model i'd say n42 5x2 minimum
>>
File: IMG_2613.jpg (2.65 MB, 3000x2900)
2.65 MB JPG
I've been hard at work on this Centaur RSV in the last few weeks. Pretty happy with how my first painted vehicule is turning out. Currently working on the five guardsman that are part of the miniature in that little diorama in the cargo bed. I'm astonished by how I'm already better at painting the little details compared to my first unit of Cadian Shock Troopers. Though I'll admit I would've thought I'd be done with the Centaur by now, I'm really slow.
>>
>>98480937
>>98480943
Thanks guys.
I’m gonna spend a comically long time researching about magnet sizes for bases of metal models.
I think the 2mm in height is fine for bases of the gw style though
>>
>>98480908
Use it alongside cork or rocks and paint it.
>>
File: 20260810_020902.jpg (1.08 MB, 1286x1360)
1.08 MB JPG
>>98480873
actually i happen to have one of those soaps but i dont really use it because i mainly use cheap synthetic brushes
it needs to have some oils in it thats basically the gist i got from his explanation
also shields
>>
>>98480980
There's no research involved. N52 3x2mm for plastic, 6x2mm for metal.
The thing is, 90% of the magnets on shitty sites are not n52 (even though they're advertised as n52) but n32 which are significantly weaker.
>>
>>98480943
n25 doesn't exist
>>
>>98480729
there's a shortage? I just checked mcmaster and they have tons of magnets listed for sale.
>>
>>98481030
?
>https://sdmmagnets.com/affordable-neodymium-magnets/
>>
>>98481019
What’s the best place to buy magnets from?
>>
>>98481545
Are you seriously fucking asking this right after a link was posted? You stupid asinine bitch, fuck a rusty pipe.
Fuck.
>>
>>98481656
What?
>>
>>98481545
The north pole obviously. Every compass points there, the place must be full of them
>>98480873 >>98480618 >>98480566
Any bar soap willwork, i usually use ivory because is white so easy to see paint coming off and it's super cheap, kirks castille soap very strong need conditionerevery time after, but i also use clear glycerine soap on occasion, it honestly doesn't matter at all, glyercine shaving soap is great if clear, not if it contains titanium or clay though, col conks was the best but they changedforumla do fuck them, goats milk soap is good, caprina brand. Even itish spring is good but kind of rough on brushes. Masters brush soap is good but not the bars, the bars contain abrasives for stubborn paint. I use ivory or clear glycerine soap for flow improver surfacant while painting sometimes. It all works okay. Technique is rinse in clean watet, run some water over soap to wet, under gentle running water brush backwards on soap bar letting hairs open and water rinse paint away, repeat until clean, apply human hair conditioner, shape tip by brushing backwards on hand, set aside to dry, rinse before next use, simple as, if brushrs ruined you are letting paint migrate towards ferrule, the metal part, keep paint beliw 1/3 of hairs, if migrate rinse immediately, keep brush moist while painting by frequent swish rinse in water jar and run backwards on moist kitchen sponge before more painting, never let dry until session over, or you might be leaving brush in water tip down, never do that, just rinse and lay on table flat, saves the tip from ruin
>>98480871
Pro boobs though
>>
File: First Minotaur.png (2.42 MB, 1535x882)
2.42 MB PNG
I know it needs a fuckload of work, but this is my first mini ever. Am I at least going in the right direction?
>>
>>98481765
He's looking pretty good! Something that would make him look even better is going in with a dark brown and using it anywhere there's a recessed area in the gold armor. You can use black or dark grey instead, if you prefer. The addition of these shadows makes all your details stand out more.
>>
>>98481778
Thanks for the input. I have some nuln oil and flesh wash I can use.
>>
File: file.png (1.45 MB, 1951x696)
1.45 MB PNG
almost done with this trio
>>
New thread:

>>98482298
>>98482298
>>98482298
>>
>>98479025
One dioarama idea I've been thinking about since I got into minis was a squad of death korps soldiers pinning a traitor astartes in place while a melta gunner or plasma gunner blows his head off.
I've just been mulling it over in my head thinking about how I would do it knowing how the death korps minis go together and how I would want them to be posed and I think I still need to work on my kitbashing skills before I should try something like that.
I want it to be nice and detailed with the death korps clearly overpowering the astartes but not without injury, with the astartes holding tightly onto some legs and arms or kneeling onto another trooper and clearly breaking important bits and pieces as he does.
Im mostly just thinking about how I want the special weapon to be interacting with the rest of the diorama, with it either being the moment before the astartes is killed or the exact moment he is killed with there being a nice big splash of plasma or melted ceramite going over his upper torso and onto another guardsmen trying trying to get a good headlock on him.
I might get some offbrand death korps and astartes models from etsy or something if I get impatient and want to try it out but I definitely think Ill do a better job at it when I get good at using green stuff and cutting plastic minis precisely.
>>
>>98481765
Looks awesome anon. You have very good brush control just based off all the smaller details like the purity seal and aquila. If you have more metallics, doing stuff like little rivets and bits and bobs in different colors can make your mini really stand out if you aren't confident in doing more detailed stuff, but I don't think you'll have much trouble with that.



[Advertise on 4chan]

Delete Post: [File Only] Style:
[Disable Mobile View / Use Desktop Site]

[Enable Mobile View / Use Mobile Site]

All trademarks and copyrights on this page are owned by their respective parties. Images uploaded are the responsibility of the Poster. Comments are owned by the Poster.