>"If you're new, you're gonna fuck up. Don't worry! If you're experienced, don't make the new people worry!"***READ THE GUIDE***Discordhttps://discord.gg/W973BmwERBThe guide:Part 1 (Quick Start)https://docs.google.com/document/d/e/2PACX-1vSBDfE8Iz-a86DZJCR5MHRW6tjkQX-y4-ZpUc_vHjRfx_i2FB0zR1usdrgUJ4wNTs1iDFZmTQHF66X_/pubPart 2 (Deeper Dive)https://docs.google.com/document/d/e/2PACX-1vQJG2SZo1O1PjExPrdU_-GnkrYTGiGLCgBcKaL4peEWxOGB4CNbpGaJBV1oF61eNE1lEhbQHYEAXLrw/pubAnd a handy guide to other types of plamo: http://www.mediafire.com/view/1vf1aw7v91pz5pa/Airfix%20Model%20World%20Specia%20(Scale%20Modelling%20Step-By-Step).pdfhttp://www.scalemodelguide.comSome line art:https://imgur.com/user/Gundaml1neart/postsPrevious thread: >>10988044
==INDIRECT COMBAT ROLES GROUPBUILD==Build a mecha or vehicle that is meant for an indirect role in combat. This can concepts such as:>Electronic Warfare And Communications & Airborne Early Warning And Control>Minelayers and long-range weaponry spotters>Scouting and Surveillance>Commanding roles>Sub-flight units to aid MS (Base Jabbers)>Field Repairs & SupplyBasically any kind of combat role that isn't just "Robot made to shoot/punch another robot"Submit your entries to gunplaplamo@gmail.com , include at least 5 finished pics and any WIP pics you took while working on your entry, as well as a brief description of your build.START: 4/24/24END: 7/31/24
>>11014449would something like an artillery unit be eligible for the group build? to me it IS indirect combat, but it is still totally robot with gun.
AMAIM kits are now one dollar USD. This is not a drill.
>>11014447hey that's my mechand today I was able to get the minigun attached to the hardpoint in the shoulder
>>11014486
>>11014489the minigun can rotate freely in a vertical axis so it has no problem facing forwards
>>11014492Even put a metallic green sticker in the scope thing
I have to build Muramasa and it has so many tiny details that I'm already panicking
>>11014472Is this real?
>>11014472why it bombed so hard?
>>11014570The plushies of the yokai mascots sold out and anecdotes suggested children too young to build model kits liked the anime.
>>11014605There were plushies?
>>11014570Attempt at a serious answer:>Wanted teen audiences but I-LeS appealed far more to little kids>For a show about freeing the oppressed it barely showed subjugation >Barely any politics between main factions until well into the second half>Main mechs had weird design choices>Australia wanting Japan made no sense>Russia depicted as the noble antagonist faction was poorly timed (not something I'd blame the staff on)>Killing off the best villain at the end of season 1>Less action as time went on>Not enough friction between the leads and antagonists until Anou fights Brad in the final episode.
>>11014472>one dollar usddon't lie to me, 100 yen is less than that
>>11014711sounds like one of those cases of a series of bad production decisions (with the Board surely being retarded as always) coupled with strokes of bad luckthat said, those mecha designs it had seemed like a weird mix between mechanical and animals and not in the good way
>>11014641Limited production given how expensive they are on eBay, but yeah those were a thing.>>11014758Jogan I can see being based on a fox, no idea what Kenbu and Reiki are based on.
>>11014782Proto Gouyou is pretty cool looking. I think in general they all look better in "real" colors than bright anime colors.
>>11014472https://youtu.be/z-q29hbEP04
>>11014472God I wish that were me, everywhere locally is still selling them at MSRP+ "you are in the Antipodes" markup.
How tall are HG 1/144 and HG 1/72 roughly in cm or inches?
>>11014495and its done
>>11015264
>>11015266
>>11015269It was a very simple build but fun to do itI am glad the old connector I had worked for the minigun attachment
>>11015272Time to pick the next buildTEH REI Discount unicornWannabe Titans GundamSF everyone seems to hateSD Freedom
>>11015288Cool statue
Do different brands of lacquer paint have different thinning ratios?
>>11015288There's a high grade of Huckebein Mark 3? The stuff /m/ never talks about.
>>11015342If it's anything like the Gespenst MK-II it's excellent.
>>11015342not only a Mk III, they also made the Mk II AND the Huckebein Mk III with the Boxer frame is coming out soon
>>11014822The Kenbu is just ugly
>>11015342/m/ is just shitposting central at this point. Most anons up and left it because of forumfag drama.
>>11014822Proto is the only good one, the rest have this plain, cereal toy aesthetic.
>Respirator Is that just needed for painting or do I need one for building?
>>11015672Avoid sanding resin and you won't need one. Inhaling plastic dust isn't great for you but it's nowhere near as bad for you as resin dust
What type of gloves do you use for manipulating already primed models?
>>11015774Resin and the plastic used by bandai are both amorphous polymers, they're literally the same for all intents and purposes.
>>11015858What bandai kits have resin in them?
>>11014486>>11014489>>11014492>>11014495>>11015264>>11015266>>11015269>>11015272Sweet build fellow jackal bro, is that minigun from the build fighters option set?
The best subjects for painting practice are your own 3D prints.
>>11015904Another model from the same author.
>>11015905
>>11015906Scaled to 27% of the original and added doors and window lattices (same as in the previous model). I guess having no doors makes it easier to move game pieces or something?
>>11015907I was wondering which Tamiya enamel blue paint to use for the roof wash and then I just grabbed MrWeathering blue filter and it worked somehow.As usual, also posted at https://www.tinami.com/creator/profile/65467
>>11015887yeah, it was the Giant Gatling setthat radome/missile set of yours in the right shoulder armor from which set it is? I could try adding one extra weapon there
>>11015904>>11015905>>11015906Beautiful
>>11015924The missiles are from the M.S.G. Unit36 missile and radome from kotobukiya. Its a neat set of option parts because the missile parts are a separate insert piece so painting them is super easy.
>>11015932oh cool, might try to grab them when I get some future kitsthink I'll get to make the Rei plamo and the Hucky Mk III next
>>11014822If you told me that this was a no-name 30MM I'd believe you.
>>11014486>>11015887I just snapped my Jackal the other night as well. Still deciding on what MSG or other parts I wnna slap on it and a paint scheme.
>>11015774Wouldn't one of those be enough? Seems weird that you need professional gear for a relative cheap hobby that is also for kids. Or is it avoidable if I just use a knive to cut off nub instead using sandpaper?
Since I got the V Thor on it's way, I quickly put together it's PilotThis Governor Pawn A1 has a very knight looking aesthetic
I want to get started with gunpla. I've found some kits that I could buy and look interesting. Is any of them known to cause trouble or an especially good choice?
>>11016587The GM Space Command is OLD. You’re better off with a newer HGUC GM. Even the GM Custom is good from 2008.
>>11015904>>11015905>>11015906>>11015907>>11015912no washing required for 3d printed resin required?, also you use tamiya liquid primer as your primer right but I have to ask how? it's the worst piece of shit I've ever used so I'm clearly doing something wrong, how are you using it?neat little build.
>>11016526V-Thor is very cool. Lots of articulation.
>>11016587Both of the Entry Grades are ok, they're fully color separated and will give you a pretty decent intro to Gunpla. That lil 30MM egg guy is cute but can't pose too much, I would maybe not get that for my first. I don't know about the Wing mold, I don't own it. Gouf Custom is a pretty solid kit still, that's not a bad choice either.
>>11016587If you're in the US, just go to you local Hobby Lobby during a 40% off week (every other week, one just ended on Saturday) and engorge yourself.
>>11016182You don't need a respirator unless you are working with resin or painting. But if you do decide to sand your parts, just don't kick it up all over the place or try to inhale the shit, you know? work clean and use common sense. Foreign particulate matter in your lungs is not a good idea.
>>11016601>no washing required for 3d printed resinOf course you need to wash it. I use 99% isopropyl alcohol in a sonic cleaner. For somebody else's prints it's even more important since you never know if there is uncured resin left inside somewhere.>you use tamiya liquid primer as your primer right but I have to ask howThin 1:1 with Tamiya lacquer thinner + retarder (orange cap), spray wet coat at 10psi, works every time.
>>11016587Gouf custom and wing zero are really good
Anyone knowledgeable enough in Motor Nuclear kits? I'm eyeing off this fucker, but I'm trying to work out the difference between the MNP-XH02 model and the MNP-XH02A model.
I made the decision to start with those two. Together with the tools I'm slighly below free shipping so I think I will get a stand too. Does this one fit? It should be because all is 1/144? Does it also come with the different parts I marked? Also what's the difference between Action Base 4 and 5? They do look the same to me.
>>11016727>I use 99% isopropyl alcohol in a sonic cleaner.That sounds like an explosive hazard.
>>11017450Action Base 4 is meant for bigger kits, while 4 is for smaller kits. You could also get some Action Base 6s which would be better for those two kits size-wise.
>>11017560>sounds like an explosive hazardBut it's not.
>>11017568But it is. You've actually got 2 sources of risk in your case; the obvious one is all the vapors that are being released when you remove the lid (flash fire risk from any spark in the area). The ultrasonic cleaner itself is another; it's rare, but the bubble implosions from cavitation can cause static electricity in the solution itself. This is harmless with water based solutions, but solvents can equal the big boom. On top of all that, it's not exactly fun to breathe (guessing you already know that). I've personally gone to using a degreasing cleaner with my ultrasonic for 3d prints, with 70% IPA as a rinse to get rid of the degreaser; works a treat.
>>11017624Do you recommend a specific brand of cleaner?
>>11017624You know, in theory even water can spontaneously split into oxygen and hydrogen from a particularly large discharge of static electricity and then you'll have a Hindenburg in a cup, literally.In reality though, alcohol is not as explosive as you make it sound, but you do you.
>>11017627I use LA's Totally Awesome, but that's mainly because I have a Dollar Tree a couple blocks away from my house. IIRC Uncle Jessy did a review a few years back of various "industrial" degreasers (Purple Power, Simple Green, etc) and they all worked about the same. You don't actually have to put the degreaser directly into your ultrasonic either (I don't); a zip loc or pickle jar with the solution floating in distilled water lets the ultrasonic waves propagate just fine.
>>11017633Damn, everyone only ever has US brands to suggest and I've never been able to find any good info about the best EU equivalents.
>>11014472Can someone supply more pics of Amaim/Kyoukai Senki kits selling bad like this?
>>11017633>a zip loc or pickle jar with the solution floating in distilled water lets the ultrasonic waves propagate just fineYou must have one of those industrial 1000W cleaners then.
>>1101802180w 2L Ebay special.
>>11014447A piece was missing from my kit, but fortunately it was another part to an arm. So, I had the right piece to duplicate.I bought the quick type putty and some blue stuff to hopefully duplicate it. That a good idea? It's not a load bearing piece, more like a covering armor for the joint itself.
>>11018071If you're worried about durability, mix that shit with an equal part of miliput. It's crazy strong.
>>11018050Then I can assure you the stuff in pickle jar is safe from any kind of cleaning ;D
>>11016182normal kits are made of polystyrene plasticthe shit you don't want to inhale is polyurethane resin dust which is mostly in garage kits or third party modification parts.
>>11017382they have a website here which theoretically lists all their variants http://www.mdhtoy.com/MNP.htmlthe XH02E variant comes with a more expensive "titanium finish" type coating on the plastic, but no idea what the difference with the A version is as it's not listed
>>11018355>you don't want to inhale is polyurethane resin dustpolystyrene plastic dust is not much healthier for your lungs either
How to make 1/72 AFV headlights in 3 easy steps:1. Gouge out the headlight with a chisel (deeper in the center).2. Press a piece of aluminum foil into the headlight.3. Fill with clear UV resin and cure.(incidentally found a legitimate use case for Mr. UV Clear Putty)
>>11017624>the obvious one is all the vapors that are being released when you remove the lid (flash fire risk from any spark in the area)Dude. I spray literal visible clouds of alcohol with a hand sprayer when I clean my printer's resin vat and build plate in the sink in my basement, like 10 feet away from the pilot light of my furnace. If alcohol vapors were as easy to ignite as you imagine, I would've fried myself to a crisp years ago, but I haven't. Because short of spraying directly into an open flame, shit won't ignite, it dissipates too fast.
>>11018364>but no idea what the difference with the A version is as it's not listedYeah it's been hard to find any info on these. All I've got so far is they have different boxes. I wonder if there's a contact email to reach out.
Up on HLJ
>>11018894>preorder shit there>they never fulfill my orderyeah no, fuck those guys
>>11019363Preorder quickerAlso it's more like a waitlist than a preorder
>>11019400no fuck themevery single kit I preordered from them the same day they put it no their website instantly got backordered and they never fulfilled any of those orders:hg destroyFM aerial gundamthe Mk III huckebeinhell, evne the kits from the freedom movienot a single order fulfilled? yeah I'm done with them
>>11019412>same dayBe less slow
>>11019412Skill issue. I've gotten all of my orders fulfilled.
So these are TF parts, not gunpla, but I thought I'd share this with you guys anyway because it's relevant. If you've got a high-shine paint you want to clearcoat but that doesn't like lacquer (in my case an enamel-based chrome paint) then just get some of Tamiya's gloss clear (the colorless kind) and tint it with alcohol-based ink, like the kind you get in big packs off Amazon. It's kinder to paint than lacquers but isn't a bitch to spray like aqueous acrylics. Was able to get this really nice candy pink this way. Obviously this example is incredibly "toyetic" 'cuz that was the look I was going for, but anyway.
I've build my first gundam and it was lots of fun and excitement. pic related. Took me ~2 hours and at the end I really lost my concentration and almost clipped a spike off of the spear. Speaking of the spear, not a fan that he can only hold it one handed and only the the last quarter inch. For reasons that I don't understand my hands are sore now.
>>11019412But you didn't get charged, there is literally no loss to you except you being butthurt for being slow
>>11020412Tell me more. What's your basecoat/layering situation? Have you handled it since drying? Does it seem prone to chipping? Did it get sticky/tacky? I've been trying to achieve this sort of look without all the work that goes into traditional candy coating.
>>11020901So the chrome layer was an enamel-based paint that will cover any surface in one or two coats, but it's only available in the UK. After that, the tinted clear was sprayed on in multiple layers, but it didn't take too long to achieve as it dries fairly quickly.It doesn't feel tacky, but it does currently feel a little bit...I dunno, rubbery? Like it's dry but it's not rock-hard. Could just need longer to cure.
>>11021194>but it's only available in the UKAh, guess it's not for me then. Shame. Well, one problem I was running into in my own experiments with various paints was tackiness. Some paints on certain plastics just seemed to never cure, even after over a year.
>>11021726Oh crikey. To be fair, the chrome itself wasn't the real discovery- rather that you can tint Tamiya clear with alcohol inks to make a chemically "gentle" clear paint for more fragile metal bases.
>>11021729Ah, I see. I think I may have misunderstood. Thanks, I'll try tinting some myself (I already have alcohol inks on hand) and see how it goes over the silvers in my paintbox.
>>11021194>but it's only available in the UKWhat's it called?
>>11021835https://guildlane.com/products/guild-gild-chromeThis stuff. I think it might need upwards of a week to cure because>enamelbut it's lovely to work with outside of that.
>>11021839Nice I'll have to give it a try at some point thanks mate.
>>11021878Whatever looks cool. I don't even watch the anime, no interest. No there's no one way to do it. Buy only one series if you like that, or buy whatever you like, you can't go wrong either way.
>>11018894>we could've gotten ortus or one of the coral ac's >instead they're doing the starter ac despite already having nightfall
>1/144 HG MS-06S Zaku II Red Comet Ver. Mobile Suit Gundam The OriginProbably a very stupid question but all the blue circled stuff are stickers right and the black lines (yellow circled) are line art that I would need to do myself?
>>11022644Yeah
>>11022650thank you
You guys are more comfy than the plamo threads on /m/. Nicer too. I wonder why that board went to hell in recent years.
>>11016526Gave it a little paint
>>11023087very generally slower threads have fewer shitstirrers
>>11023087a bunch of faggots that contributed with nothing nested there since years ago, always talking shit and doing the equivalent to sage bombing the thread, I'm actually surprised some dudes there still try to keep it alive with the montly them builds becuase it is always the same shitsome very good modelers used to post there and here too, but they probably grew out of the hobby or just decided to stop posting due to having to deal with such retards, truly a shame
>>11023347Theyre always /m/ad over there. Anything I post gets shat on and bitched about at worst, best just gets ignored.
>>11023087>>11023347>>11023447Adding to all of this, one of the biggest reasons is e-celeb drama. There's a deranged anon colloquially named Duelrager that's obsessed with image reposts and forum drama. He's been doing his narcissistic speeches for 7 years now, at this point I'm hard pressed to say this guy must be protected by the mods. There is literally no other reason why this guy never gets range banned.
Finally decided to get into this stuff and got pic related for $12. Friend gave me some of his old nippers to start on it. How common are slimmer mecha designs like this Spinatia?
>>11023459Within that line, 30MM, there are quite a lot of slimmer/lightly armored choices. If you like that one, why not keep going.
>>11023490Yeah I'm looking at the Spinatia Commando and notice they sell little additional sets for armor add-ons. Want to make my own little custom looking Spinatia. I assume since they use the same body the different colored parts are interchangeable as well.
>>11018422Putting on solid resin one-piece tracks turned out to be quite a nerve-wracking experience, not gonna lie. And now it's time for the first flat coat.
>>11023459All the Spinatio/Spinatia kits will work well together but basically all 30mm stuff is compatible
>>11023596everything among the 30mm line is compatible with each other, from the robots to the mecha musumes they have released and else, so you can make lots of customizationseems a bit like bandai's response to koto's hexa gear line, which is older but revolves around the same customization concept
>>11014758>a series of bad production decisions (with the Board surely being retarded as alwaysThe bane of Sunrise anime.
>>11023949Its actually more analogous to their Fram Arms line rather than Hexa Gear. They even half ripped off the background story for the setting.
I want to buy a Mr. Polisher Pro as a present but I see there's other options available and I'm wondering if you guys have any preferences
>>11024402Dspiae sander.
>>11024757not responding is not difficult
>>11023640Wouldn't it be possible to heat it up and then place it there or would there be too high risk of deformation.
>>11024700>>11024402there's also the David, but it's more on the expensive side. DSPIAE is probably the cheapest one you can get, but it only works on smaller surfaces
working on a kyrios rn. panel lined and top coated(still drying). this is my first MG kit, and I gotta say it's a lot of fun. moving from 3-4 sprues to like 10 is a bit of an adjustment since I usually assemble while on the couch using a lap desk.
>>11024908just realized the topcoat obscures the transparent parts. wouldn't be particularly bothered except the torso has a transparent part in the center that has a sticker underneath the transparent panel. Is there a way to get rid of the topcoat? I'm using Tamiya TS-80 flat coat. internets said isopropyl 91% should work after a soak, but I don't want to take *all* of it off, just the stuff on the transparents. I also only keep 99% around the house.
>>11024908>>11024917Yeah, MGs are magnificent, and in Kyrios's case you also don't need to parts-swap to transform it (though any transformation outside of UC tends to be quite lackluster). There's also significantly less painting that needs to be done to make it look like the anime.The purity of alcohol mainly affects how much time it takes to dissolve the top coat, it won't melt the plastic or anything. In your case, your main option will be to partially disassemble the torso and then take out the power gem and soak only that. If the sticker is attached to the power gem then you could try to use a heat gun to loosen the adhesive without ruining it, but if the sticker is really simple (from what I'm seeing on Dalong it's just solid silver) you could try to buy a simple silver-backed crafts sticker at an arts and crafts store (or worst case Amazon) and cut it to shape as a replacement.
>>11024903>Wouldn't it be possible to heat it upThe thing with someone else's 3D prints is that you don't know the physical properties of the resin they used (and unlike traditional cast resin UV resin for 3D printers comes in a great variety of types), so you have to be very conservative about things you want to try with it. In this case heating (even if it worked) wouldn't help much anyway since the teeth in the tracks needed to go into groves in the wheels and you don't want to deform those. Next time I'm going to mount the tracks first and add the wheels one by one, it might be easier that way.
>>11024917Brush (or mask the rest and spray) the clear parts with some gloss topcoat to make them regain their shiny surface.
>>11024402>Mr. Polisher ProIs the intended use for it actually polishing, or sanding/cutting/demolition/etc?
>>11024925good idea. the sticker I'm talking about isn't actually visible. Its backside is indeed solid silver, but the front facing part has words and stuff and isn't attached to the part that got the topcoat. it's supposed to show through the transparent parts when the led(sold separately) is lit up I think. the green transparent part was one of the first pieces that got put on the torso so I'd have to disassemble almost the entire frame to get at it so I might try doing some light rubbing with a q tip and 99iso for a bit and if that doesn't work just buckle down and give your idea a try.
>>11024937Galaxy brain here. screwed this one up real bad. q-tips and alcohol just made it look worse. guess I'll have to bite the bullet and disassemble. it bled to other parts as well so ig I have my hands full. would lighter fluid work better? or would that be a wishful pipe dream?
>>11024951You don't want to put lighter fluid directly onto bare plastic, that's not a good idea.
>>11024953but they literally do that in the guide??? is it wrong/outdated? what about lacquer thinner? just a lil bit to not melt the plastic?
>>11024960it makes the joints and thin parts like panel lines brittle when directly applied to bare plastic, that's why it's recommended to be used exclusively for painted parts.
>>11023087i just noticed there are a lot of bad faith posters in that board for some reason, and pic related seems to trigger that general a lot to the point of derailment. i wonder if they're the same group of people >>11023347 and >>11023458 is talking about.
>/m/ tourists arrive and immediately proceed to shit up the thread with irrelevant garbagereport and ignore
>>11024951experiment time! gonna soak these in my 99iso overnight(next to the window to avoid fumes) and see if that works. I heard something on the internet about iso leaving "frost" on plastic, so hopefully I'm not messing it all up.
>>11025031Pic related is the only sure way I know to remove lacquer off plastic cleanly. 99% ISO should work too but if it's going to work it should start working within a couple of hours, overnight is excessive.
>>11025040it is tooth hurty a.m. I'm not gonna wake up in a couple hours to check my model parts. I have it on good faith that iso99 won't melt my parts overnight. I'll see if my local hobby shop has some of that. emotionally devastated RN from my mistakes.
>>11025031heh i remember when i tried this with acetone and came back to a baggie of melted parts
>>11022151It's cool i guessWalter's hounds used it too So minimally 4 characters are represented by this model
First attempt fully finishing a kit with panel liner, varnish, and stickers. Some of the liner got a bit smudged and there's a bit if greb in the varnish but overall I'm really happy with how it's turned out. Normally I just stop once I've finished building but I enjoyed the extra steps.Wish I had a better set up for photos but my house is so gloomy.
>>11025041alas and alack, it did not work. I heard that toothpaste and a toothbrush might polish it, and at this point I have nothing to lose so I'll give it a go
>>11025218I'd just sand, reprime, and start from nil. For the clear part, just get some sanding sponges and wet-sand it until mostly clear and then give it a dip in Gauzy agent. I had a similar thing happen to the clear parts on my Cherudim, and I managed to polish those out pretty well.
Will the plastics used in a gundam model leach into salt water? I want to do a diorama in a live saltwater tank.
>>11025218>toothpaste and a toothbrush might polish itNot at this stage. You need actual abrasives to take off the white residue that is melted into plastic (that's what lacquer does), so you need stuff that sands off plastic and toothpaste ain't it.
>>11025324It should be fine. Gundam models are designed for young kids, so that they can safely put them in their mouth, stuff them in their nose or up their ass.
>>11025439it kind of worked not really. I ended up taking one of my wife's nail file boards to the lense and got it looking pretty ok. I think I'll just leave the torso peice as-is and let my next topcoat figure it out. I'll pick up some glossy topcoat tomorrow for the lense. also realized I could have taken out the lenses independent from the rest of the torso which would have let me topcoat without hitting the lense. kinda mad about it but whatever.
>>11023347>>11023458>>11024757>>11024973How about you shut the fuck up about another board's drama/shitposters and actually post your models instead of dragging this thread to their level?
>>11025459You could probably clean that lens up further with some 1000-2000 grit sanding sponges and some polishing compound.
>>11025459The glosscoat will probably smooth out the rest of those scratches. Probably.
>>11024700This is dog shit
>>11025324No. What is more likely is the model kit will grow mold after some time.
I've been someone who mostly just straight-builds models and panel lines them, but I want to try painting now. I never sand nubs because I have good nippers, but should I be doing that to prep for painting? The finish is usually pretty smooth.
>>11026464painting makes "just flush cut it and dont think about it again" more practical since you don't even care about stress mark discoloration. all that matters is the surface being even
>>11026464>I have good nippersWhat nippers have you got?
>>11014711So basically they made a modern Gundam show but without brand recognition. RIP.
>>11026464>should I be doing that to prep for paintingYou will find that out once you prime.
>>11025324the saltwater will break down the polymers over time. The first thing to go will probably be the polycapsIt sounds like a neat idea, but find a way to do it in a water tight
>>11026746*fuck you enter keyfind a way to do it in a water tight in something water tight that can be sunk, but easily removed to clean off biofilm growth
Tried my hand at the max technique with acrylics, and it's an interesting concept, little to no thinner with paint, and almost a dry brush type technique with the paint brush. Looks kinda messy up close but that's kind of his style.
>>11026800Hang on, the image fucked up lol
>>11026605some $20 pair of tamiya nippers, and spn-120s
>>11026749I want it to get overgrown with goop so it has that abandoned ancient robot look, but I don't want it to totally melt into plastic sludge.
>>11026800>>11026802This is interesting. I assume you mean Max Watanabe? I used to know an older modeler who painted kinda like this, I just assumed his hands were getting a lil shaky lol.
>>11026802I like it. Has that old anime look to it with the shading.
tonight's progress on the kyrios. panel lined and topcoated. this time I had the forethought to remove the transparent parts before applying the topcoat. I'll put them in later.
How do you know when you have put too many decals on a kit? Or is it all just subjective and there is no such thing as too many decals?
>>11027874if you don't like the way it looks then you put too many onsimple as that
I've struck Gold
>>11028069I've seen the top 2 at multiple hobby lobby shops in my area. are these supposed to be rare?
>>11027215today's progress. had to re-coat yesterday's pieces cause I forgot the stickers. remembered to put some masking tape over the transparent lenses this time... except for the entire cockpit. ya win some and ya lose some I guess. I'll probably just give it a gloss topcoat tomorrow and call it good, since there's nothing under it that needs to come through.
>>11028069>HG DeathscytheI'm so sorry anon.
>>11028069congrats!>>11028487HG Deathscythe is a good kit.
>>11028487what are you talking about? I know there is another version that includes the (foldable) wings but at least on the google images he didn't really do it for me.>>11028544thank you>>11028374yes, everything that didn't come out yesterday and is something people want is rare here
>>11028544>>11028557Which Deathscythe am I thinking of then? I remember one a few years back was absolute dogshit.
>>11028632the wing kits are canonically smaller and it makes them feel kind of dinky/flimsy at times. but i wouldn't call them awful. it was this one?
I dusted my Aerial since it was so dirty
>>11029121First time I actually put together the shield, it is so big
>>11029121>>11029124why is it so big when he can't use it verticaly?
Another one for the backlogFor some reason, this thing seems similar to the FMP arm slaves to me
>>11029121I keep hoping for a MG using the same printing tech as the HGs. The red chrome under smoke thing sounded cool, but in reality I don't like it nearly as much. I'm honestly kind of surprised they didn't offer an option for the FM, it would have added a negligible amount to the price I'm sure, and I doubt I'm the only one who prefers the printing.
>>11029351you mean those technocolor parts for the chest? yeah they would have looked better than just plain metallic red
>>11029326A lot of Hexa Gear designs have a FMP vibe to them. Especially the Jackal and other Bulkarms.
>>11029351Wait, you mean they... /didn't/ do the printing thing for the FM?? Why the fuck wouldn't they? It's like the one gimmick that I think would set WfM kits apart from other lines.Also what the fuck is with the general lack of 1/100 kits the last few years? Is the scale just fucking dead outside of Sneed kits?
>>11029456Because the FM is large enough to have real depth in the construction instead of a nice bit of fakery.
>>11029457But it's not as nice. Look at >>11029381 and>>11029121. I appreciate what they were going for, but the chrome is just too dull and barely shows through. And even when it shines, it just sort of looks like someone stuffed some shiny tinsel or something under there. The printed version is much cleaner and brighter and more reflective, and just looks more professional in general.It was an interesting experiment on Bandai's part, but it didn't really work. Someone should have caught that before release and said "hey, the FM clear parts are looking worse than the HG, shouldn't we address that?"
>>11029456It's baffling. They touted this fancy new printing tech (which does look great!) and then don't bother to use it on the majority of the WFM HGs or the FM. I'm just stunned. That was the perfect use case for this technology, what are they gonna do with it now? They missed the fucking boat!I am going to be so mad if they eventually do revamped/P-Bandai WFM kits with full printing tech. It would be like the P-Bandai Revive Zeta with the color separated wings, just a huge fuck you to everyone who bought the original.
>>11029351Is it an idea to put something else under there yourself?
>>11029478You can do that, but nothing will match the clarity of Bandai's new printing tech. If you try to do the sticker under the clear parts on Aerial, you can see the difference.
>>11029478Get a second copy of the kit and try painting the back sides of the clear panels with mirror chrome paint
>>11029654boring, this is run of the mill at this pointthere are so many better and more interesting options now
>>11026800>>11026802Do you mean the "new MAX technique"? I thought that was entirely based on brush painted lacquers reactivating the undercoat and a multicolored base layer?
This Rei model kit is quite nice
>>11031195Simple but certainly has various issues
>>11031175Well now he has ANOTHER technique where he pretty much does drybrushing with paint by doing little passes with the brush before filling in and doing a drybrush pass towards the end.Why does he have so many techniques.
>>11031191Nice GM, i really like your farm/industrial layout as well.
>>11031465Thanks. The diorama is alot of fun. I painted and weathered this zaku.
>>11031634>dioramadid you build it yourself?
>>11031675Yes. It is just insulation foam, painted with watered down acrylic paint. Glues some trees and green shit to it. Can use other things too, like layering sand and ashes mixed etc. Put a few tomytec/kato/tomix buildings on it. N Guage train stuff fits hg pretty well 1/144, 1/150. So is close enough.
Clearer pic of this Moderoid Rei kitI got it as a curiosity. It is pretty good but has some issues, mainly very noticeable seamlines all over the limbs. Since the white parts come molded in a high glossy white plastic those would be a real paint to fix.There is also the fact that the limbs do not properly attach to the torso. They all insert to the body with irregular shaped pegs but these do no click or fit properly, they end up just kinda loose so all limbs are just slightly separated from the torso
>>11032148>these do no click or fit properlyPretty sure the expectation is to use plastic cement to attach those, Moderoid kits are not snapfit.
>>11032332>Moderoid kits are not snapfit.This might be true of that Rei in particular, but this is definitely not true line-wide. I've built a few Moderoids now and the experience was just like Gunpla, proper joints and all snapfit connections.
>>11032148>>11032332That's not a Moderoid, but just Plamax. A lot of Plamax kits are static pose statues you have to build yourself.
Tonight I am assembling the first Gunpla i've assembled in over a year; The Real Grade Wing Zero Custom EW. This is my first RG and I'm really enjoying how all the parts fit together, but is it ill advised to glue the armor pieces on? I dont plan on taking them off and I dont want them to fall off with light play.
>>11032574If you are sure you understand how it works and there is no reason to ever remove it, sure, go ahead. I would wait until the entire kit is built just to be sure though, it would be dumb as hell to find out about some swappable feature or something after you glued it.
>>11031191it looks nice but do you own literally any other gundam marker than black? thick black lines on everything is kind of unsettling. wouldn't a dark red marker would have looked better on the orange parts? and brown on the tan parts?black should only be used to give TONS of depth in an area
neat kit, bad stickers on the shoulders
>>11032574doesn't that kit transform? I'd say no
>>11032583I use dark gray tamiya, though it does look a bit darker due to light angles or whatever. Black hardly gets used. Ive been buying new products to try out here and there, trying to do painting and weathering a bit more. Like this zaku, used black surgacer and deep green gundam color for the chest, shield etc. Used mr color steel for the joints. Used gray surface and gundam color zeon green for the limbs. Used mr weathering colors, ground brown and rust orange/red. Did sponge chipping. Isnt perfect. Kinda ran out of rattle can and some parts are a bit thin on the paint. Purple on the heat hawk turned out way dark due to the steel undercoat. Sometimes I just fuck up lmao. Its a learning experience even for the experienced.
>>11033277What, you mean those thin lil red ones? I see no problem with them, they were easy to put on and a year later they are not peeling or giving me any trouble.If you are having a hard time applying stickers like that, get yourself a pair of fine tweezers. It makes sticker application easy, even tiny ones.
>>11033549i have tweezers and used them.the problem is i'd rather they were one long sticker as opposed to three with slight overlaps
>>11033617Oh, that. Yeah, I was a little puzzled by that too, but I gotta figure there's some reason for it. Bandai's plamo engineering is so carefully thought-out at this point, I can't imagine them just doing something like that for no reason.Of course, Bandai is also sometimes really bad at basic shit like scaling decals correctly, with noticeable overlap and/or poor fitting. So who knows? To me though, splitting a sticker seems like a intended decision rather than a mistake.
Does any other company beside Bandai make plamo? And plamo better than bandai?
>>11034446>Does any other company beside Bandai make plamo?Yes, many.>And plamo better than bandai?No, none. They're the top dog in the industry for a damn good reason.
>>11034446>And plamo better than bandaiIt really depends on your definition of "better".
>>11034553>top dog in the industry>industryThat would be the "gunpla industry". They are a big fish in a small pond, they make very good beginner-friendly plastic robots from a popular franchise (and some other similar products), but if you are looking outside of that niche, Bandai can't offer anything to you.
>>11034553>No, none.That is the most retarded thing I've ever heard. I hate 30 minute mouthbreathers so much it's unreal.
>>11034553>No, none. They're the top dog in the industry for a damn good reason.They are pretty decent but the only real things they are "the best" at is accessibility and OOB quality.When it comes to detail, molding, part-fit etc. they are very far from being "the best".
>>11035109>>11034853>>11034790NTA, but what do you consider the best then? None of you named anyone. Volks? Garage kits? Small-run artisanal hand-poured resin bootlegs?
>>11035714See >>11034777"Best" depends on what you're into and it's different for everyone, so asking people for "the best" is pretty meaningless unless you tell them first what "best" means for you.
>>11035727This is kind of dodging the question breh. It seems telling that everyone is like "Bandai is not the best" but nobody can seem to name a single one of these supposed better companies.So just name any company you consider to be better than Bandai on any metric. Like for example, "Y Company's molding quality is crisper than Bandai's." or "Z Company has denser, stronger plastic than Bandai." Give me anything at this point, I'm starting to think you boys ain't got no gas in the tank.
>>11035762(Modern) Tamiya has better part fit than Bandai.Tamiya, Hasegawa, Fujimi, Trumpeter, even probably Modelcollect have finer surface detail than Bandai.Tamiya has better plastic than Bandai (not soapy).I could go on but then I would get into more subjective categories. BTW, neither of the companies listed above make models from gundam franchise, so if you are looking for gundams they are irrelevant to you (just like Bandai is irrelevant if you are looking outside of gundam franchise).
>>11035782Correct me if I'm wrong, but aren't most of those like traditional paint & glue type model companies? In my book this is an entirely different category of modeling and doesn't really compare to snapfit makers, feels like a disingenuous comparison to me. Even our modeling threads on this very board are split in two, because there is almost no overlap. Like you really can't make comparisons between them, they are going for very different things. Those type of kits go for extreme detail because that's all they got, they don't have full body joint engineering or posing durability to worry about. Don't smugly bring a hot dog to a sandwich contest man. What are you trying to prove?>soapyAre you referring to mold release, which should be washed off sprues before painting anyway?
>>11035813I don't think you're reading what he's saying.arguing about what's the best is pointless because it all depends on the modeler and his needs, for example if you don't paint then bandai is the absolute best, end of story.
>>11035813>muh dodging the question>muh no gas in the tank>buuuuuuuuuut aren't most of those like traditional paint & glue type model companiesSee how you immediately went to the definition of that you actually meant? So for you "models" are "snapfit models" and in "your book" models that are not snapfit is a whole entire different parallel universe. Which is fine, but that's just you and your criteria. Mine are different and other people's are different too which is why I said that asking for "best" is meaningless unless you tell upfront what "best" means for you.
>>11035813>Are you referring to mold releaseNo, I'm referring to the feeling of cutting a piece of Bandai plastic that is very similar (to me) to the feeling of cutting a bar of soap. To me it's kind of off-putting but I'm sure some people enjoy that.
>>11035836I think it's because of that special plastic blend that Bandai uses to get their durability during light bending, also another downside is softer details than most other companies and funnily Bandai themselves from 10+ years ago.
took a break from building my kyrios to panel line, spot paint and weather a HG Barbatos Lupus I snapped together at a friend's house. I have a whole bunch of parts for the kyrios as well as this whole figure to top-coat, but it's been raining all last week and is going to rain for the next week strait so the humidity is never going to be low enough to finish the job.
what the fuck; why the hell are SMPs so expensive?
>>11037039Made by a different, more inefficient, more incompetent division of Bandai.
>>11037039You have to realize that these are typically sold in grocery stores, split into 3-5 separate boxes. Like look at this pic, when you receive it you literally get the retail display box meant to go on the shelf in a store. You remove the perforated top portion and are meant to sell them as singles. Online, the upfront cost seems high because you are technically buying a bundle of 3-5 kits at once.
>>11037039>>11037131As for the quality of the kits themselves, they feel like high effort from an inexperienced team. For some reason, this line was given to their candy toy team, who has no model kit experience, and the gunpla team does not help them at all. The plastic quality is worse than gunpla, they are candy toys after all. For an average comparison, I just built the Red Dragon thunderzord, and it's about as big as a small HGUC (think Victory Gundam or so). Articulation is very good, it transforms and can combine, and it has a mix of stickers and prepainted parts. There are a lot of stickers, but they're not bad quality. These kits typically come with a full loadout of accessories to allow you to do every possible mode and transformation and attack.Expensive, amateurish feeling in some ways, but ultimately, pretty good products. Plus, it is the only way to get super-articulated versions of certain bots, so...there's that too.
>>11037135I'm gonna take that back actually. Plastic quality doesn't feel worse than gunpla, it's just different. It might actually feel better even, it's heavier and more toy-like compared to the thin, hollow, light feel of gunpla. It feels chunky and just...kind of good. It does scar easily though.
What are some cool aquatic mech model kits? Something about underwater robots just gets me, so I was considering the RG Z'gok, but I've heard bad things about early real grades.
>>11037495What are you looking for in a kit? Some that I can recommend off hand, to give you a range of options>HG Acguy>HG Hygogg>MG Acguy>MG Gogg>NG Juaggu (both scales but 1/100 if you are a complete paintlet)
>>11037511You forgot>Mobile GOOhN
>>11037511Thanks, I'll see if I can get my hands on a Hygogg. I just love the image of a weird monstrous robot emerging from the water, so that one fits the bill.
>>11037515most people don't have the kind of patience required for GOOhNing
>>11037515Pls forgive me anon I completely forgot about the NG Sneed line. Should really see if there are some at a decent price still, could make a GOOhN cave diorama.
>>11037135>Expensive, amateurish feeling in some ways, but ultimately, pretty good products. Plus, it is the only way to get super-articulated versions of certain bots, so...there's that too.I'd be more for them if the proportions of them weren't so weird.
What are the right glues to use with which types of plastic?
>>11037578I think they are trying to balance the old look of the DX/Chogokins that came before, with modern joints and engineering, and sometimes that changes the proportions. In my opinion, it's mostly ok, and largely improves the figures compared to what we had before.
>>11037607Wonder if whoever did the design for the RG GaoGaiGar would ever take a crack at some of the Sentai/PR kits
>>11037610As was said above, Bandai for some reason keeps their teams separated and they don't share info with each other. Gaogaigar was made by gunpla team, Sentai SMP are made by shokugan team.
>>11034446depends on how you define "best"bandai surely does have the best engineering for snap-fit kits and articulated modelsbut a train autist will have a totally different definition of "best" and might prefer "wow the details on this kit are 100% accurate to the random 80 year old locomotive im obsessed with, i've crossreferenced it with 1000 real life photographs from the museum" and be fine with doing more work with gluing and pinning and trimming flash away. and of course for fictional shit like giant robots (rather than scale models of real world shit like planes/tanks), design sensibility is important too. in the end the best engineering in the world only makes so much difference, if you prefer the look and design of a different robot instead.some people prefer classic simple 80s designs like the original zakus, some want chinese kits covered in 90000 sharp edges and greebles, some want coom kits like the kotobukiya one where they slapped boobs on gaogaigar.
>>11037585most of the time you use plastic cement instead of glue. when you DO actually need to glue two parts together, cyanoacrylate / CA glue should always be fine.
>>11037946>cyanoacrylate / CA glue should always be fine>should always be fine>alwaysexcept when you need to glue a large clear part like a canopy and CA can cloud itor except when you need to be able to take the thing apart lateror except when you need to clean up the excess glue without a trace (inb4 muh skill issue)or except when you need to glue a piece of a different kind of plastic that CA doesn't bond to
>>11037946I'm trying to glue polyoxymethylene back together, tried cement and it didn't work, tried glue and it didn't work.
Working on my 1/24 Strikedog. Cheated a bit by using Sharpie on the clear bits, but since it's painted on the inside, it still works regardless lmao
>>11038224>Sharpie on the clear bitsThat's what I'm gonna do with the clear parts on the red shoulder custom wave kit I'm working on.
>>11038472Yeah honestly considering that it's gonna be inset, there should be no worries about it rubbing off. Also update
>>11038203According to Loctite's Design Guide for Plastic Bonding, Delrin (POM), Celcon and other Acetal Homopolymers can successfully be bonded using Loctite 770 Primer, then Loctite 401 Adhesive. The guide also recommends the use of an accelerator due to the surface of acetals being so dry. Idk why on earth you would be using such a material, however.
And there it is.Gonna topcoat and do mild weathering but the strikedog is basically complete
>>11039214Lol
>loader 4 kit announced>except without the right weapons>new pack is just everything that comes with nightfallwhat the fuckliger tail is cool though
>>11039199Turns out the Chinese use it on some of their kits for pegs and joint parts. Guess it's strong enough to hold metal bits?
>>11039566Kotobukiya also uses it for high stress parts. It's tough and low friction, making it perfect for pegs and balljoints that need to be sturdy.
>>11039604Yeah, but when they break it's an utter bitch to repair. Can't even get in contact with the manufacturers to see if I can get replacement parts somehow.
I want to hand paint cel-shading my exodia model kit, but I don't want to have to prime it just to paint it the base colors all over again. Can I just use a matt top coat (I am thinking of using mr.super or mr. premium flat) to act as the primer, then paint the shadows/highlights overtop of that? The only other option I'm thinking is getting AK interactive Wargame - Space Robots Brow, as it seems pretty close to the base color. It would be most ideal to just use some sort of clear primer though. I do not have an airbrush so spray can/hand painting are my only options.
>>11039752brown*
>>11039180>>11039199>>11039214>>11039218Nice. These little wave kits are crazy. You actually have to drill the 2mm peg holes yourself.
When did Newtype switch to FedEx? I always preferred them because they used UPS. Last two orders were FedEx and both had damaged boxes.
>>11040395This one is actually the Plamax one.
>>11040666I know. I just mentioned wave again since it's the one I'm working on.
>>11040957not to nitpick something unimportant but your previous post does not read like that all my guy
>>11040979Yeah you're right. Looks like I'm calling the strike dog kit a wave one with how I responded to all the posts.
>>11040598Had issues with fedex the last couple of orders I've had. They either didnt deliver it and said try again later, or delivered to the wrong house.
New thread: >>11043217
