3D printing is cool, and has obvious applications for /toy/ purposes. I've been working on making (rather lewd) printable toy "kits" you can assemble with Hobby Base joints using my resin printer, but I'm thinking of taking a step further and getting an FDM machine to try my hand at printing plastic joints too; the end goal being 99% printable action figures, with the only non-printed components being easily obtained materials like metal wire for pins if necessary.Anyway, I've done a fair bit of research on FDM and am considering getting a Bambu A1 Mini as IIRC it punches way above its price tag, is very easy to use, gives fantastic results and isn't very expensive (for my purposes the smaller build plate isn't an issue). What I'm not sure on is what filament to use. The "big 3" I see people use are PLA, ABS and PETG. PLA is apparently very easy to print and very cheap, but I hear is mechanically quite weak. ABS is stinky and a bitch to print but if you get it to work is very durable, being the same stuff used in actual toys. I've heard PETG is mechanically even better than ABS and also prints very nicely, my only concerns being it doesn't like glue or paint (or so I hear) in the event either of those are necessary.My current plan is to make "hybrid" kits where the body parts are printed in resin and structural parts like joints will be FDM.Anyone with experience with FDM have any advice? Also anyone else into printing?
Before you go try printing joints with ABS, maybe try using Resione Tough74 resin. It was designed especially for making action figures. People say joints work pretty well with it and they aren't wearing down... so far at least. I haven't tested it yet.
How do you protect yourself from toxic fumes when printing?
>>11142763I might have to try that, I think I might even have some I bought to make a blend for "PVC-like" resin along with their anti-impact and flexible resins. I do like Resione's resins, they're pricey but they certainly do what they advertise. That said, I still want to try FDM for a few reasons.Somewhat counter-intuitively, I think having all the resin parts printed in one resin and the joints done in plastic might actually be more user-friendly than having to print the figure in multiple resins; my experiments have found that my "PVC-like" blend isn't brittle at all and thus works great for Figma-style pelvis overlays, but outside of the socket portion of balljoints is too soft for any kind of joint. Unless you have multiple resin printers (and I don't) swapping out 2 or 3 different resin blends to make the parts for one figure is going to be quite time consuming and annoying. By contrast, having one resin blend for the actual body parts, and the load-bearing joints and such being FDM plastic would probably be simpler and possibly cheaper. Especially for people dipping their toes into figure printing; as a lot of people doing printing as a hobby have resin and FDM machines, it might be more attractive to people to be able to use strong but affordable ABS-like resins and FDM joints they already know how to use rather than having to take the plunge into expensive and often temperamental engineering resins.There's also the issue that in my experience, even the best resins available just aren't going to handle strain as well as plastic. Friction grind is one thing, but you just can't make the same kind of joints in resin you can with plastic. A Figma joint clone would be a cakewalk in FDM; in resin, those 3mm pegs are major failure points (I've tried, and in my experience a resin blend that's stiff enough to work as a joint but flexible enough to not just snap is nigh impossible).Thanks regardless!
>>11142770Don't stay on the room while the machines are on (if you have to, wear a filter mask) and don't have them near bedrooms or kitchens, resin printers require dark places so garage or basements are the best places for them.there are also cornstarch and plant base resins and pla that are safer to handle.
>>11142770inhale them through your mouth so they come out of your ass inert
>>11142590>anon wants to get an FDM printer to print ABS>chooses a printer without an enclosure which any material good for printing joints needs>thinks ABS doesnt work well with paint/glue when its the most common material in model kits.>has totally done lots of 'research'You sound retarded. good luck.
>>11142860>>chooses a printer without an enclosure which any material good for printing joints needshuh? everyone is going to clearly print inside of some sort of room or garage, unless you live in some sort of constantly cold weather your fine.
>>11142860Not to be rude but I don't think you read my post properly. I said PETG doesn't handle glue/paint well, not ABS, which I'm fully aware can be painted and glued, and even smoothed with acetone vapor baths. I am aware of ABS requiring an enclosure (in addition to being in general a bit of a sod to print), my understanding is PETG doesn't need one and actually has superior mechanical properties to ABS, though I've certainly been wrong before.
>>11142860>>thinks ABS doesnt work well with paint/glue when its the most common material in model kits.>>has totally done lots of 'research'The fact that there is specific plastic cement for ABS, compared to regular model kit plastic, should tell you enough: You are the retard.
>>11145468>>11143476
you guys got any cool 1/12 stl recommendations? Or sets with weapons or accessoirs? I know you can just upsacle stuff but I kinda struggle to figure out the right sizes. I'm trying to print some set pieces and a statue but not sure how to make it 1/12 ish so it looks right or so tiny stuff fits into hands from the get go. Any tips or am I forced to math it out myself?
i paid a southeast asian guy to take the model of bobobo from j stars and convert it into a printable figure. i've tried printing it a few different times with different materials but every time something breaks or is so loose that it's unusable. i don't know if he just did a subpar job or if i'm simply too retarded to put the pieces together but i'm starting to think the technology isn't quite there yet
>>11146395Post the stl and I’ll give it a look if your comfortable sharing, if not then post a screenshot in your slicer of the area that breaks
>>11146431it's a bunch of individual files, i don't know what filesharing websites 4chan automatically blocks anymore.
Why is it no one ever posts pictures of 3D printed action figures it's all words words words
>>11146442Good idea, anon. Pic-related.Finally fixed the ass on my petite blank body figure. Mind u you this is meant for SLS printing via sculptor and I need to put together a ready-to-print model to just upload there whenever you want.https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/game/pm-afg-01-1-12-articulated-petite-girl-figure
>>11146484Ass shot.
>>11146442https://www.toymakr3d.com/They have a lot of cool, even free, STLs that work amazing. Lots of makes posted. Great for FDM printers.https://teccotoys.com/That's another one I like. Work pretty damn well if you use a high impact resin.
>>11146442
>>11146484>11.30 eurosWe need to build a big torrent collection of all those files behind a paywall
>>11146431https://files.catbox.moe/ugw7vc.zip for anyone who wants to see
>>11146598Telegram had a few really big groups for just that.
>>11146601For 3d files in general like guns and other similar shit ? I was more talking about 1:12 1:16 1:24 ... accesories for articulated figure
>>11146612Everything. Gun parts. Paid minitaure and art stuff from myminifactory and such. Gizmos. There WAS a group where you could request stuff and search a massive library sorted by creators and shit.
>>11146599alright so this is clearly made for resin, are you using ABS like resin? or just the standard stuff?You definitely want to do some research for these types of parts, consider videos like these https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ix9KN6CuTwg
>>11146638i've only printed in resin so far, but i don't know specifically what brands because i was using a print service. i tried printing static parts in high-detail and moving parts in high-impact but that didn't work, as well as printing the whole thing in high-impact
>>11146693https://www.resione.com/products/tough74
>>11146693https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NulKZZ9X96s
>>11146705i have a set of parts printed in resione74 but the parts that make the wrist are extremely loose and the parts that plug into the arms from the wrist are so tight that i'm positive they're going to break with any movement
>>11146721i mean, thats where i would go back, and start changing the size by a few %
>>11146721You could either adjust their size in your slicer or editor of choice. Or you could try thickening pieces with either a few layers of clear nail polish, or brushing on and curing a few layers of resin. You could also sand down parts if they are too snug.
>>11146484>>11146487Oh hey Papi-Anon! That's fantastic work, nice job.I did want to ask, actually- your joint packs that you sell, do the files only contain the sprued versions for SLS printing or do separated files exist for printing individually via FDM (or resin if you're brave)? If the latter I'd definitely buy them.
Shapeways folding has actually been a big problem for my little hobby projects.I simply don't have the budget or space to invest in a decent personal 3D printer, and every place that Cults3D directs me to makes no sense whatsoever in regards to setting up an account, like not letting me finish without inputting a business that I don't have.People tell me there are local places I can take my 3D files to to get printed, but I'm not sure it's as simple as that. I'm sure I can't just walk in, sit down at a computer there and load up a file to print from a thumbdrive, it can't be that easy.
>>11142590My gut feeling is the hassles of fdm printing are going to make it not worth the effort for the potential gains.>but I hear is mechanically quite weakThat's an exaggeration, pla can be stronger than either, it's not the case that it's just a weak inferior plastic that's easier to print. Where it is quite weak is heat resistance which i doubt matters and it's rigidity can be a strength or weakness depending on the task.For your purpose pla would be my go to keeping in mind i print only functional parts and things like painting and smoothing i couldn't tell you, only if it proved to be unsuitable would i venture into other materials.You can probably print an an enclosure for the mini that lets you print abs, just need to preheat the chamber. With tiny figure parts though you might even get away without it because they'll be so close to the bed.Be careful when designing or picking parts to print because supports suck and should be avoided if at all possible.Good luck.
>>11146864Thanks!The big joint pack of various sized ball and socket joints are individual STLs, but I suppose I should make separate STLs of the other packs too. I'll make an update today after work.>>11146865My previous post got auto-corrected, but Sculpteo.com is what I've been using for the last couple years now. Same materials and finishes as Shapeways, more or less, but overall cheaper when shipping is taken into account (in burgerland at least).
>>11142590>FDM machine to try my hand at printing plastic joints tooDon't.PLA is the best material out there for FDM, hands down. It's easy to print with, its fumes are not toxic and smell like burnt sugar, has a great level of detail, and most importantly has amazing dimensional accuracy, and it's not necessarily mechanically weak. If you're printing some sort of mechanism with moving parts: PLA is unbeatable.If you're printing joints that require friction to hold: PLA is terrible because it has a high level of creep. In other words everything will become smooth and loose over time (around 2 days). This is both a feature (if you're printing like a clock or something) and a disadvantage (if you're printing action figure joints).
I still have not tried the Resione Tough 74 resin however I did try Nylon Mecha from Siraya Tech. I have run several tests like twisting and bending the joint for >1000 times and it maintains its grip plus has zero dusting.I'm using ball joints that use a thin cap made out of Nylon Mecha which avoids any wear and tear on the joints plus it allows for the figure to be printed out of any resin you want.
>>11142590PETG can absolutely be painted, it just requires nastier stuff than scale modeling paints. I used automotive spray cans for pic related and had no issues.
>>11146864I updated the figma-like 6mm joints with individual STL files without sprues. The 5mm variety pack has individual STLs too.Currently have some updates being printed for the arms of my petite blank figure (more stable biceps swivel and hands are just ball hinges rather than ball-sockets). If they work out then I'll update it. Also currently being printed is a WIP miniature articulated woolly mammoth (everything neck-down) and a printed-metal Dwemer coin replica, based on the ones in Morrowind.
>>11147265>>11147258gib stl I finally got a printer
>>11152953Based, Papi-Anon. You're good people.
Just ordered some of the grey Tough 74 Resione goo. I've heard very good things about it, looking forward to trying it. Also looking forward to them releasing it in white so I can dye it.
>>11142590Please share what you know. I've also been interested in making hybrid figures for myself. Particularly stuff I know won't be made. From what I understand, I wanted the figure to be made of Resin (which is brittle), but use a mixture with the Resionne stuff. That can make functional rubber tired for toys. I just need to adjust the mixture when I get started. The issue with that I fear is the possibility of cracking paint when applied. Things like hair, tails, belts, clothing - just free flowing things that'll be bent, could cause the paint to crack. So I looked into it a little and it seems like you need to apply a coat or layer on top to seal the paint and prevent chopping or cracking on slightly bendable parts. At least, if I find that to be necessary. Either way, I'm very interested in doing this.
>>11165510I haven't tested painting the flexy stuff yet, but I reckon it should hold paint better than, say, rubbery plastic. It's still resin, and the microscopic layer texture might actually provide a better "tooth" for paint to grip onto.
>>11165706Cool, good to know. Also, how come this thread isn't bumping? Did mods sage it in the face of all this spam? God, this board is in dire straits.
>>11165775I think threads here autosage in a couple weeks on purpose, as a joke.
