What’s on the workbench, /toy/?Sculpts, castings, original plushies, 3D prints, dioramas, mods, kitbashes, and repaint are all welcome!Post WIPs, finished projects, ideas, techniques, ask for advice, and most of all, have fun!HELPFUL TIPS:-Invest in a rotary tool such as a dremel for sanding/sculpting, especially a flexible extension tip.-Pin vises for drilling holes can be found at hobby stores like Hobby Lobby and are great for making peg holes.-For soft, flexible parts get Sugru silicone putty and Oyumaru-Hardware epoxy putties such as Waterweld, KwikWood, and PlasticWeld are similar to milliput, greenstuff, and apoxie, can be cheaper some times, and can be found at local hardware stores such as Lowes, Ace, and Home Depot.-Bootleg figures make great custom-fodder, especially if the legit figures are pricey.>Body-chan/kun, Figma Archetype He/She, and Sozai-chan/kun are great base bodies for import-style human characters.-For 3D models to use for editing, the following sites are good to bookmark:cgtrader.com (free and purchasable models)cults3d.com (free and purchasable models)models-resource.com (FREE 3D game models)turbosquid.com (free and purchasable models)grabcad.com (free and purchasable models)renderhub.com (free and purchasable models)Happy Thanksgiving Month everyone!
>>11228966I was planning to print a truck, but it's made out mostly from rather thin parts so I decided to make a tank first. Should be easier to 3D print with its thick armor plates. I tried to model it as close to the sprites as possible... but I dunno, I'm kinda not satisfied with how it looks rn. It's a frist try and needs a ton of work still, I know top railing is off and the exhaust. Going detailed 3D from stylized pixel art is a pain in the butt.
Took a break from Volnutt to cut up a Scizor model and work on articulating it. It still needs a ton of work, are there any cheap 1/12 scale joint packs that exist? The ball joints on this guy seem to be fine but the ratcheted waist and elbows/knees repeatedly fail. I know it used to be really easy to get random assortments of Revoltech style joints but that doesn't seem to be the case now. Using fixed joints atm because the elbow/knee hinges I was using kept snapping (printing everything in Resione Tough 74, don't know if there are other mixes that would stand up to more force).
>>11229723Hobby Base makes a lot of different joints, worth a look.
>>11229680Ok, this is the one I'm going with. It's close enough.
>>11229794Nice work!
>>11229730I was looking at these a little while ago and was worried that they'd be like HG Gundam joints, where they'd struggle with the weight of the resin, but after googling around they might be better than they look. I'll give them a shot.>>11229794Nice, looks accurate to the sprite as far as I can tell, really dig Metal Slug's mechanical style
>>11229800They're pretty sturdy, I use them a lot. That being said DO NOT GET UNCURED RESIN ON THEM. It WILL cause them to become brittle and disintegrate. Basically, just make sure the resin is 100% cured, clean and dry before assembling with them.
>>11229802Good to know, that Tough 74 cleans and cures pretty easy since the cure time is so long. Is there a particular glue you recommend? The only glue I have any luck with on UV resin is Gorilla gel, I usually just resin weld everything but that's not going to be an option with these.
>>11229808I generally just use superglue with resin, though that's usually when I'm building wargaming models. Superglue activator is your friend. But good luck regardless, that Scizor looks fantastic.
Has anyone every sawed the limbs on a sh figuarts to change the proportions? Looking to make Ken Body-kun into a goblin and I was wondering if it would be possible to milliput the gaps and not end up with a brittle piece of shit.
>>11229978Never tried it with figuarts, but have tinkered around with softer plastic limbs of Marvel Legends a few times, and I've also cut/extended limbs of my 3D CAD projects for getting proportions right, so the basic ideas are still relevant.Unless you want bulging arms, you'll need to saw off a section of the arm rather than just cutting it in two parts. This is so that when you attach the arms together you can taper the milliput starting from the thicker end more naturally to the narrower end. Otherwise you'll have to add more mass to the arm (either or both halves) to have it look like a natural piece and not frankensteined together.1) Cut out the middle section, making sure to give at least 3mm or so between the end point of the joints (ex.- elbow, wrist, etc.) and the respective cut end.2) Next you'll need a metal rod to attach both remaining halves together, such as a pilot nail or a thin brass rod from a hobby store (~2mm diameter or so).3) Cut the rod to a length that gets the arm length you want in the rod inserted (this applies to any limb extension/shortening). 4) Next, drill a hole that is just wide enough to stick the rod into for both ends of the limb sections. Repeat this with the other half, and make sure both holes do not interfere with the joints.5) Use superglue in the holes as you put the rod ends in and let them dry.6) Once dried, start adding milliput or whatever epoxy putty you want (greenstuff, waterweld, plasticweld, etc) and try to sculpt the transition from cut end to cut end naturally with an err to thicker if you're using soft epoxy like greenstuff (harder epoxies will be more difficult to sand/grind off excess, so be mindful).7) Sand, prime, and paint.Hope that all made sense, anon, and godspeed!
>>11230303Doing bones with rods is really smart, hadn't considered that and I already have a pin vise. Thanks for the help!
>>11229978An anon here made a prntable short lad body not that long ago iirc, idk if he's still around but i think he also made a shortsack body
>>11231770I am still around! I should really redo that body, it was one of my older designs and it could do with some updates.
Does anyone have experience using the 30MS faces/parts for custom figures? I'm thinking of using them for some figures (maybe will modify the hair slightly). They seem like a good base as far as I can tell?>>11229680>>11229794Nice job anon! I really like how it turned out! Looks like it would in the game! I can't wait to see it printed!
>>11228966I make custom Funko Pops.
>>11233373I knew that first test print would have problems somewhere so it got no post processing after being cured. Waiting on the joint sets I ordered to get here so I can measure them and tweak the model, then after that print has been test fitted I'll be sanding it and painting it a metallic/gloss candy red
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077Y86FKJWould this dremel be good for fiddling with figures?
>>11234470>The Stylo+ features an RPM range of 5,000 to 22,000 to cover your creative needs. too fast may melt plastics and splatter
>>11234755Even if you leave it on a lower setting?
>>11234727It's a Scizor from Pokemon, you give a Scyther (Bug type Praying Mantis-like monster) an item called a Metal Coat and it becomes a Steel type with a metal exoskeleton and its mantis blades become sharp crab claws. Normally it's depicted as having a regular metal sheen, the image you're replying to is from a spin off fighter that was trying to flex the visual ability of the Wii U. An army of them would absolutely be imposing in a 1/12 collection, they're about 6 feet tall and weigh 300lbs in canon.
Finishing up the armor with final details now and then I'm going to seal this baby up and fill in any gaps with resin welding.
>>11235008Best Buy Big-O?
>>11235118Sym-Bionic Titan
>>11235008Nice work, that looks fantastic.
>>11235184Ty mate, it took a fucking year of work to get to this point and way more money on resin than I will admit.
>>11235153I was just being a goof. Looks good. Any ideas on the translucent casing?
>>11235284oh yeah im done with it. I just have to figure out the resin welding so it looks at least partially not shitty.
>>11235008looks incredible!did you model this yourself, or get it from somewhere?I'm guessing this is a statue, but an articulated version would be amazing
>>11235527All done by myself.Articulation would be nearly impossible due to the transparent shell I'm adding. There's no easy way to add hinges so that the shell can remain floating above the endoskeleton.
>>11235861Correction, I shouldn't say nearly impossible, I should say... It would require a talented machinist that I am not.
>>11235008I was just wondering how your big guy was going. Looks incredible!
>>11229723Scizor model looks great! Is it one you made yourself or downloaded from somewhere? Hobby Base joints are closest to Figma/Revoltech joints available for purchase, but I think they stopped making them a few years ago so now even those are really hard to find outside of Japan. Also FYI if you didn't know, Banda has a Plamo Scizor figure coming out within the next 2-3 months and it'll be close to the same size. Somewhere around 5-6" tall but I guess we'll have to see in reviews. Not as articulated as the one you've got, but a little articulation.
>>11235870The model maker is named Ydeval, I don't know if you can buy it anywhere now though, I snagged it off Telegram. The articulation and stickers on the pokepla put me off of them, wish they were better.>>11235909You're pretty good.
>>11235911Thank you. I’m buying parts to make Naked Snake now
>>11235861>>11235863I can see places in the limbs where pegs and swivels could be added easily, with spacers holding the clear shell out. it would likely lead to some gaps in the armor.but it would get complicated in the shoulders and hips; might have to rely on the shell to keep floating parts together.If you ever decide to post it, I'd give it a print and risk messing it up to add joints!
>>11231770Looks like papi-anon made a shota-conversion kit for his loli blank figure too. It's just a chest and hips replacement set, but not an 'anatomically correct' version.https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/game/pm-amg-01-1-12-articulated-petite-boy-figure-conversion-kit
>>11236149I just put it on Etsy. You can search for it with Sym-Bionic Titan Model. Usually I'd give away models for free but this one took an assload of work over like 6 months of my life.
>>11236388wish i had the cash, you should add your irl pictures and a better render of the clear parts.i give all my files for free on cults3d even those that took months of modeling, but i understand where you're coming from
Anyone know where the coat this guy used is from? I want to make my own ranger with it
>>11238745why not ask him
>>11238788Not my screenshot, I don’t have an instagram
Got this shitty $10 RC car at Walmart. There are four different models of these Sharper Image cars, they're all shit but kinda fun for bashing into each other. Each one does different tricks, this one rears up when going forward so I gave it a giant constrictor snake-inspired paintjob. When it goes up...
>>11238839... it opens its jaws reeeeaaaaaallll wide to eat up lesser shitmobiles. Added weights in back to improve the handling, as well, since it only drives on the rear wheels. BTW if you happen across these things and feel $10 burning a hole in your pocket, get the Cyclone Twister (the blue one). It's the absolute best right out of the box. Best handling, can do flips, does a cool spin with its wheels in the air. I just really felt like polishing a turd, maybe to convince myself I deserve to be polished, too.
>>11238745Definitely a Star Wars Black Series 6" figure. Not familiar with the line so go look at a checklist and check for more recent figures to see
>>11238745>>11238858i think this guy is right and its the Cad Bane figure
>>11238745>>11238788>>11238858>>11239131It's the Black Series Dr. Aphra (the more recent version).
>>11238858>>11239538You guys were dead on, thank you
Throwing around the idea of doing a MGS3 Naked Snake. I've been eyeing the GI Joe Classifieds Falcon as a base but not the biggest fan of how high up his sleeves end. Is there a better base, possibly in the line or out, that I'm missing? I looked at valaverse or whatever and it seems to be very modern military.
>>11233273Welcome brother (or sister)
>>11228966Any advice on what paint I should use if my figure is made of this?
>>11240188lacquer primer, then acrylic or lacquers on top of that, avoid enamel if possible
>>11239841GI Joe Classified Breaker is another option, his head could even work as a base for Naked Snake (eyepatch or not).
