>>11263092
>OP is an iPhoneposter
REEEEEEEEEEEEE

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Think I'm about ready to go, just need a painters mask

>>11263166
Are you planning to thin Tamiya paints with AK thinner?

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>>11263092
>chang sends me the wring ship kit
>never seen that kit before
>it's twice the size and price of the one i ordered
>it's also way cooler
nice, time to build a korean frigate

Rather new to this whole thing.
I have a bunch of Humbrol acrylics here, but I noticed they have a "grainy" texture. Thinning and all is fine, but I am afraid that when I use that color for bigger areas it will look like shit.
Does anybody know about that phenomenon and how I can get rid of it? inb4 throw them away and buy better colors - I'd rather not because this was an unopened pot. Will the varnish mask the texture?

>>11263173
Yeah the store didn't have any X-20 left or I would have gone with that.

>>11263166
tamiya aryclics are lacquer-aryclics and are best thinned with me hobby leveling thinner, I think AK is water-aryclics, and if you were planning on using tamiya for brush painting, they are known to be very bad

>>11263211
Guess I'll order some Mr Hobby asap, not planning on doing much brush painting, yet.

>>11263166
Let us know when Tamiya's airbush cleaner has dissolved the seals of your Chinese airbrush. Otherwise have fun.

>>11263249
Wut cleaner is gud? I bought the Tamiya as it doubles as Extra Thin Cement but saw nowhere anyone warning about that.

>>11263263
70% IPA is good enough for Tamiya acrylic paint.

>>11263176
Doesn't matter if it's unopened, if these are old paints you got from someone or have been sitting in a store for years the acrylic paint pigment will start to separate and ruin the paint. If you can't mix/shake it into a decent state then they are, unfortunately, only worth throwing out.

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>>11263173
shame, glad I got my supply

>>11263263
Windex except it attacks the chrome

IMO the whole "Lacquer, Acrylic, Enamel" distinction is one of the dumbest things we've adopted in scale modeling.

We generally call paints using strong polar solvents lacquers even though most of the modern formulations are using acrylic (i.e. based on Polymethylmethacrylate) resins.

We call things based on weak polar and nonpolar solvents (water, IPA) "acrylic," even though not all of them use PMMA resins (Polyurethane is just as common). Acrylic resins are still used in a lot of formulations so it's technically correct most of the time, but it's so broad that it can include systems that are incompatible (e.g. Tamiya-style acrylics do not work well mixing with Vallejo-style, etc.)

Enamel paints are what we call alkyd-resin paints with a gasoline-like nonpolar solvent. Less confusion here but again we run into the problem that waterbased acrylics are also creating "enamels" when they bond to the surface.

I get that we had to have some way of distinguishing between the paint systems that are generally compatible with each other, but we've adopted the most confusing terms for those systems. We should be using oil-based, water-based, alcohol-based, ketone-based instead since that at least tells you what kind of paints it's okay to mix and what surface reactions you can expect.

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Doing some work on this crapkit mazda k360. Bought it years ago for the SA crapkit group build then my dad died so that got shelved for a while. Probably didnt dust it very well. Didn't wanna leave it bare white plastic that would have looked like shit desu. How do you guys deal with motivation issues? I have a few kits on the go that I want to finish but I'm just hopelessly addicted to the instant gratification of my PC which is in the same room as my modelling desk. Can't seem to ever tear myself away.

>>11263390
>How do you guys deal with motivation issues?
lose interest in everything else. modelling is my only joy in life

>>11263390
I generally do modeling to get the fuck away from everything i dislike about my job so it's therapeutic to me. No need for motivation issues, it's necessary to flush the system

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>>11263366

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>>11263390
>dealing with motivation issues
I listen to Hank
https://youtu.be/ZcMuWdsLRuA?si=KxI55iqB6GuJgMI_

>>11263455
Hank does know all. Mostly I just fucking spend all day refreshing twitter and feeling exhausted then get a burst of energy at 11pm. But then it's too late to spray or really do anything without disturbing people.

>>11263462
>But then it's too late to spray or really do anything without disturbing people.
How loud is your compressor? How thin are your walls? If in doubt just tell them it's your super vibrator and they won't bring it up again out of embarrassment.

>>11263590
It's a sparmax, not cheap chinkshit but it's still pretty loud and would disturb neighbours.

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So if I understand correctly if I wanna build a 1:24 Porsche 930 I can basically go fuck myself, is that it?

Are 1980's cars an extremely ignored subject?

>>11263619
1980s and 1990s cars are the LEAST ignored subjects in cars. Learn to google you fucking retard https://www.spotmodel.com/product_info.php?products_id=56004&language=en

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Getting fed up with this cheap airbrush and I'm starting to thinking throwing a little bit of money at the problem in the form of buying an actual name brand one will help immensely.
Tell me why I shouldn't buy this. I was going to get a Gaahleri but apparently the only reason they're even relevant is because of an aggressive shill campaign and they're not actually actually that great. Otherwise I was looking at Badgers. I'm not 100% convinced its entirely equipment problems and not just a skill issue, so I'd prefer not buying a super expensive fancy airbrush (h&s, iwata, etc)

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>>11263641
>1985 tooling
Good job anon, sure told me!

>>11263652
old doesn't automatically mean bad

>>11263652
>car models tooling is generally made around the time when they are relevant unless the car is a special icon

are you new to this hobby or something???? Build the fucking kit and stop whining and get better at the craft if it has things that need correction

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>>11263654
>old doesn't automatically mean bad
>1985 tooling

>>11263656
>some incoherent boomer rage

Thank you for the answers fellas.

>>11263659
Neither a boomer nor raging, you are just being deliberately retarded.

>i can't get a kit for the car i want
>is given a link to the specific car he asks for
>it...it's not made in 2024.......
>build it anyway
>you're all angry boomers!!!!!!!

>>11263652
I mean it's japanese and not a revell USA kit. It'll be alright.

>>11263656
>Build the fucking kit and stop whining and get better at the craft if it has things that need correction
real. in many cases there are no bad kits, only bad modellers

...usually

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out of the box it had molded supports but I needed to remove them to paint the body
its only a matter of time before I fuckin break the roof off this thing I guarantee

>>11263659
Adding to it, you went straight to being retarded rather than googling (yet again you have no fucking idea what you're doing) for an in-box review but don't worry little one i will spoonfeed you here too https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C0rf1R8jEHo

>>11263667
Bruuuuuh. Maybe start with the inside and glue a couple of thin wooden sticks somewhere they won't leave marks that are seen to protect it? Or wedge one between the painting stand and the roof?

>>11263366
Bro I just want to paint my little plastic airplane

>>11263652
The bodies on the older car models are near perfect, the interior and underside is likely simplified compared to the real car though

>>11263619
>scalemates dot com
if it ain't there it doesn't exist but I'm not going to do all the legwork for you, faglord

>>11263646
>Tell me why I shouldn't buy this.
You should buy it, it's good annd imho it's better than my Iwata HP-CH which costs double.

It's heavier and longer than most of the jap pattern chink knock off airbrushes but the angled lever and air connection is much more comfy to hold.

>>11263661
Lol LMAO. Jap kits are half the time as bad as Revell.

>t. Building a Hasegawa T-38, yes, I know it is from the 1960s, but seriously, Airfix and Monogram kits from around the same time are better.

I will put it to you this way, I would not get a Jap kit that is older than 20 years. Not saying that, I would be the first one to pick up a 1950s Airfix or Monogram kit, but if I was really on a budget, then I would more likely be looking at those companies than Tamiya, Hasegawa, LS, Fujimi, Otaki, Nitto, Aoshima or Nichimo.

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This is how the Humbrol paint looks after spraying. It's exactly the same texture as when brush painting.
I even built an impeller from a piece of sprue and mixed the shit in the pot for quite some time. At least there were no clumps and it seemed very smooth.
Also, it clogged up the nozzle almost instantly.

So.... are Tamiya colors good for airbrushing? It seems people like them. I already have a few, so I wouldn't have to buy into a new ecosystem with Mr. Hobby or something like that.

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>>11264019
And here you can see how it looks brush painted. Exactly the same texture.
Also, no idea why I actually painted the straps on the gunner seat, nobody will ever see that anyway.
Also, I wonder why the fuck they chose to just have a hole there. I know the seat could swivel, but I doubt the swivel joint actually looked like that.

>>11264019
Mr Hobby and Tamiya are intercompatible though so that wouldn't make a big deal for you.

Not really sure what that textured effect you got going is caused by, could be particles drying while airborne and you need retarder but Humbrol acrylics are hardly something to write home about so I'd go with Tamiya/Mr Hobby (get the right thinners and retarders up front so you are actually ready to go with these rather than skip on them and have new exciting problems)

>>11264019
Tamiya and Mr. Hobby/Gunze Sangyo are good for spraying, but suck for brushing, in my experience.

>>11264019
>So.... are Tamiya colors good for airbrushing
nO, THE ONLY TRUE GOOD COLORS ARE GSI CREOSOTE MR SUPER BUMBOY GAIA NOTES GX SPECIAL EDITION THINNED WITH MR A.HARRIS SUPER HIROSHIMA LEVELLING THINNER

KIND REGARDS
BVLL

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>>11264026
>hiroshima levelling thinner

>>11264026
DAMN RIGHT BRUDDA.

JERRY "JOKER" LEWIS
'68-'72 DA NANG
AIR FORCE CULINARY DIVISION
PHANTOM PHRYERS
'66 MUSTANG
'88 PREVIA (WIFE'S POS)
MODELER FOR LIFE

MONOGRAM GROUP BUILD 1996
REVELL PRO-MODELER GROUP BUILD 1998
REVELL MONOGRAM GROUP BUILD 2005
LINDBERG GROUP BUILD 2009
COVID CORVETTE GROUP BUILD 2022

>>11264031
>>11264026
WHAT ARE ALL THESE FOREIGN BRANDS ALL I NEED TO FORGET ABOUT BARB IS TESTORS AND AMT

>>11264031
>>11264033
I miss the
>us post 1991-1992, dishonorably discharged
from one of the old billposts

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You guys laugh at boomers, but I was at a hobby show last month, and there was fatass umm ackchually guy giving his buddies a semi-loud autistic lecture on how every entry was wrong for some reason. Pedantic shit like how Israeli Phantoms can't be satin because of muh desert sand climate.

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>>11264060
Had a similar experience going to a local show, some sperg was lecturing the guy who built pic related for the entire time I was checking out the models in this section about how
a) It was wrong to call this paint scheme "Dannebrog" (name of the Danish flag) as it is in fact based on a particular insignia used by Danish armed forces randomly
b) He had used the wrong shade of paint because the original was made with paint from a local hardware store and no model kit makers get the same shade

This went on for at very least 20 minutes and made me decide not to bother exhibiting in the next editions of the show because fuck spending my weekend on that shit

>>11264052
He posts on /o/ too. Probably more often than here.

>>11264024
>could be particles drying while airborne
I would pretty confidently rule that out. I was never further away than like 1.5in from the piece, I actually saw that the paint was still wet and I get the same effect when brush painting, see >>11264022.

So yeah, thanks you and the other replies, especially Bill, I guess I'll have to order some new colors. Shame about the wasted money.

>>11264198
You could always keep them for things where the texture has some use. If you make dioramas for instance it's absolutely fine to not be smooth, an advantage even, it could also be used as a texture effect for other things like cast iron components or alcantara etc. It's just about seeing how to use the cards you were dealt here

>>11264019
works fine for me m8. maybe you have a shit bottle and/or are shit

>>11264060
>>11264069
these types are why I've cut back on forums. There's one massive pedantic faggot over on armordrama with 1,000s of posts. Not a single one showing his work or sharing any modeling techniques. About half is elaborating on obscure details of real life subjects, which is fine. But the rest is correcting people over calling something the wrong name or getting into arguments when something doesn't pass his logic test. I pegged him as a divorced/never married engineer turned management type with no friends. So far I'm right about the career.

At a show I sat in on a soldering demonstration and two dipshit boomers got into a loud discussion on whether or not it was welding, to the point it was hard to hear the guy actually giving the lesson.

The worst part about this hobby are the people it attracts.

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I'm not sure what to do with this. I'm not really into models (though I've built the odd Bandai kit once or twice) and I just recieved this thing as a Christmas gift. It's huge, completely unpainted and way bigger than I've ever built before. I'm not sure if I'm even going to try and build this thing, but if I do, is it really such a PITA to use glue and would this thing look alright just spray painted a single metallic color to look like a trophy or something? I have no painting tools or the desire to acquire them. While the game is really awesome, this isn't really my hobby but I would feel bad if I don't at least try and build it.

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>>11263960
went ahead and bought it. I really hope I have less trouble this time around. I'm not sure what I'm doing wrong, because I'm not doing anything I wasn't doing before on the 4 models I've painted using my chink brush already.

I add usually about 2 of the small AK pipettes worth of leveling thinner, and then a few drops of mr idiotretarder, then add some paint (making sure to keep more thinner than paint) and back feed the air to bubble it up and mix it. I wouldn't be surprised if the back feeding is what gets me, but its what I've done every time and usually it works just fine as long as I have thin enough paint.
But what actually ends up happening is the airbrush is totally clogged before I even start spraying for real, or it just spatters out slowly. Compressor set somewhere around 20 psi

Then I inevitably add more thinner to fix it, and mix it in, and now suddenly its TOO thin and may actually spray better but its effectively just slightly tinted thinner so it doesn't stick and just runs off like water.

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>>11264069
>>11264203
It's funny when they're completely wrong though, like when they think tracks should be rust brown, because that's what every museum piece looks like.

>>11264213
yeah your shit shouldn't be clogging at all if you're spraying lacquers. unless you're mixing lacuqers and water based paints.

>>11264220
nope, all mr color lacquers and the corresponding leveling thinner and mild retarder. I have some water based paints but those have been pretty much hand brushed only

>>11263646
The Mr Hobby airbrushes are very good. Basically Iwatas without the brand name upcharge fuckery. Only problem is buying spare parts for them.

Get the 0.3mm needle, though. It's more forgiving of thick hobby paints.

Also you can skip the ones with the MAC valve. if you have your compressor set up properly the main regulator valve should always be in easy reach, so the second valve is entirely redundant and just one more thing that can get gunked up on the airbrush.

>>11264213
>mixing in the paint cup
>using backfeed to mix

based retard

Mix your paint properly in a mixing jar then pour it in, mixing in the paint cup always leads to shit results. double if you're backfeeding the paint into places its not supposed to be

>>11264232
I'll probably just have to start doing that with this new one, I dont want to fuck it up too. I dont like the plastic waste though :( I already feel guilty about all the pipettes I have to throw away

what's wrong with mixing in the paint cup

>>11264200
Yeah that's something I was considering too. But this is not the only color. I'll have to try them and see which still work. It's still irksome.

>>11264201
Thanks for the useful answer.
At least tell me what setup you are using and what you are thinning them with.

>>11264243
Some will seep down into the nozzle so you don't get a uniform mixture. I however am also super fucking lazy and do it often, I just spray the first bit on a piece of cardboard

>>11264242

Get some glass pipettes and mixing jars, then. they'll last forever and clean up with a little bath in your solvent of choice.

>>11264243
By itself? only that you'll have inconsistency in your paint mix and you may have to wait a few seconds while spraying for the mix to stabilize. with some paints the heavier pigment will sink to the bottom rapidly and you can clog easier.

Using backflow to mix is very, very stupid, though. the paint will get into the air channels and clog up the functional parts of the airbrush. you should never backflow the airbrush unless you have no choice, even if you're cleaning it the solvents can pick up dried paint and carry it into the air channels of the airbrush. Same reason you don't want to bathe the entire airbrush in cleaning solution - you need to disassemble it and clean individual parts if you want your airbrush to actually get clean.

>>11264248
chink airbrush, thinned with x-20a. obviously like similar paints it's not as good for airbrushing as mr hobby aqueous or tamiya but it's ok

>>11264249
doesn't seem like a big deal at all. and I usually drop a tiny amount of thinner in and spray some of it through before putting paint in anyway

>>11264254
>you'll have inconsistency in your paint mix and you may have to wait a few seconds while spraying for the mix to stabilize
if true, I'd still take this over the waste and hassle of using a separate vessel for mixing
>Using backflow to mix is very, very stupid, though
yeah I don't

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Disposable paper cups are dirt cheap and save you the hassle of cleaning up.

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>>11264264
For me, it's combining the pleasant with the useful.

>>11264265
Real chads mix and thin enamel paints in one slot, while still having a toffifee cup in the one next to it.

>>11264264
ok, but you're still going to lose half your paint if you're using small amounts

>>11264268
As opposed to losing the thicker paint you sprayed out waiting for the mix to stabilize.

>>11264268
Oh no I lost 4-5 drops of paint oh noooooo

>>11264264
for me, it's urine sample bottles

I am getting increasingly sick of my stynylrez primer. I mean it's nice and all and gives a good base for paint but fuck me the cleanup.

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Can I use these on plastic model kits? Someone's selling them all for a fiver

>>11264297
you can but its kind of a pain in the ass, they're obviously meant for much bigger objects so they spray a LOT of paint for a tiny model. its like a fire hose

>>11264267
>he doesn't gustatorily check the condition of his enamels by taking a shot of the paint before mixing
ngmi

>>11264069
the thing I'd tell these people is simple:
>these are models
>as per definition models are approximations of the thing
>this means that with models "perfect" is the literal enemy of the "finished"
my models are artistic interpretations, not soulless museum pieces

>>11264265
all fun and games until the thinner starts eating through the packaging

>>11264329
i generally make fictional schemes (eg ace combat) which is why i decided to not bother because of fuckheads like that and having to explain over and over that it's not meant to represent reality

>>11264330
I only thin with rainwater captured at Lake Minnetonka.

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>>11264334
I wanna build this shit so bad in 1/48

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>>11264349
I did one in 1/72 but it became a nightmare for a number of paint related reasons (for the love of god paint the orange first if you do this scheme), then I destroyed the canopy and bought a whole second kit to do it properly and yet I'm not quite happy with it. Shit picture quality, did it back in 2021 and too lazy to take a new pic

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>>11264360
>>11264349
Was my first attempt at airbrushing some logos I couldn't readily get as decals

>>11264361
looks fantastic, how did you do the stars logo? just a stencil?

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>>11264362
The Erusean roundels come from the 1/144 X-02 kit from Kotobukiya (same for the Sol sqn logos) and I just bought two of those kits way back so I could do this one. The EASA logo is the one that's been done "from scratch", I cut it in masking tape. But now I use a Cricut and design some stencils, like here for instance is what I actually wanted to put up at as show, this is all airbrushed even the Scarface logos and I thought it was definitely a notch more interesting than another grey ass F-35

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Finally done with my ghetto spray booth. Took me a good hour to assemble everything; half of that was just rigging the light strip.

Also
>HURRDURR UPLOADING FILES IN INCOGNITO MODE NOT ALLOWED
FUCK YOU HIRO

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>>11264370
Looks like a gay disco for midgets

>>11264380
It actually does have RGB LEDs ;^)

>>11264370
What sort of fan and filter you use for that?

>>11264672
Some cheapo bathroom fan, probably too underpowered for a proper spraybooth, but it cost me literally nothing. And since it's usually connected to the actual house wiring, I just took the cord from a broken hairdryer (not mine) and connected it to it, no need for a transformer or potentiometer or on/off switch or anything. Just plug it and I'm fine. The good thing is if I *really* think it doesn't extract properly, I can always throw in a bigger one.
The filter is from a replacement filter from an old kitchen exhaust hood.

just open a window lol

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>>11264370
Based. I've been using this piece of shit for years and it works very well (those are 2x 230V fans on the left, they suck like a Dutch hooker) except I use lighting mounted all around when I'm spraying

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i know i know >visiting reddit but holy fuck the modelmakers sub is getting completely pointless to even glance at, why do so many retards believe people posting shit like this saying it's their first model of any sort. there is just no fucking way you end up with that result

>>11264921
maybe if they're from wargaming background, not retarded and followed a yt guideline to a tee?
but yeah 99.9% of those are fake and fae

>>11264943
i agree on the first bit of that sentence but it's a bit dishonest calling a first model of a real subject your first model if you have in fact painted 20000 points worth of warhammer (obviously this guy isn't THAT good but too good to never having painted anything before)

>>11264921
Dude could have just followed every tutorial to the tee, slathering on every toddlermode magical snakeoil potion, like Ammo Sherman Green, Ammo Sherman Green Base, Ammo Sherman Green Highlight, AK Sherman Mud Effects, AK Sherman Grime, AK Sherman Panel Liner, Vallejo Sherman Mantlet Khaki, Vallejo Sherman Semigloss, and so on.

>>11264921
the misaligned HVSS is fucking me up but other than that it's not terrible. Doesn't look like a first model but it's not so well done that it's hard to believe it's not at least an early attempt

>>11264702
I was going to go with a bathroom fan too but there aren't many cheap options here, might look into a 150mm ducted fan with some ducting.

mr colour aqueous thinned with tamiya x20 should still be about 1:1 right? I went 2:1 paint thinner and it seemed ok?

>>11264370
>>11264778
>Decide to get into scale modelling
>You end up building an amateur covid lab

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>38 degrees outside
>on and off rain
The weather is preventing me from progress. Am I stuck not priming anything until spring?

>>11264921
There are so many build errors, I actually believe this is a first model
Slathering something in acrylic mud really takes the eye away from the glaring issues

>>11265503
don't you live in a house? simply paint your models in the airing cupboard

>>11265538
>misaligned hull in the front and near the skirts
>rollers not touching the tracks
>no sag to said tracks
what else?

>>11265605
The plane of the turret ring seems to be misaligned, the turret seam is as prominent as the ejector mark on the loading hatch

>>11265605
Tracks and mg barrels aren't even painted?

>>11265604
apartment, and my primer is in a spray can. i tried a black paint on primer but the yak15 is going to be red and the corsair/vf109/spitfire is going to be in lighter colors

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latest purchases. I'm excited to build the ki-10 because I've never built a biplane before. the ARII ki-43 is a '91 rebox of an early 70s otaki kit, but if its anything like the late 70s otaki FW190 I built previously it ought to be pretty fun and easy to put together

>>11265503
>turn box on its side
>put models in it
is this not viable

>>11263263
just get some spare seals for your airbrush

>>11265651
What paints are you going to paint this with and by which method? Priming is really not essential to model making at all, and one of the primary purposes of primer, unifying surfaces, is a bit of a stretch of a necessity with your entry level filling work. It's visibly not smooth and uniform from the pics, so are you priming just because you think you're supposed to or are you priming because the paint you have will require it?

>>11263646
I have both, haven't used my gaahleri but it looks and feels good, packaging and included bits is very clever, and it's very cheap, but you can't go wrong with a procon boy either

>>11264921
My first model was way better

>>11265651
oh, you're the
>so bad and clueless he might actually be trolling
anon

short advice for the first model: STOP asking here about steps AFTER you completed and fucked them up
choose one of your kits, research the techniques related to the topic and your tools through tutorials from the OP and yt, and then fuck off from here, complete the model to the best of your ability and finally post it
I guarantee you the feedback you'll get will be more honest and constructive than when you're shitting up the thread with low-effort minutiae

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models i am no longer proud enough of to exhibit in my cabinets go to the BOX OF SHAME

what do you guys do with old models you're too sentimental about to throw into the trash?

>>11266089
>old models you're too sentimental about to throw into the trash?
no such thing
they all go into the bin

>>11266089
got any young relatives?

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>>11263092
Why do most scale models of cars have shitty chrome plating? Wouldn't it be more economical to skip the chrome plating process when making model kits of cars?

>>11265711
acrylic and brush. i sandpapered the surfaces for a while but if I do too much the details might be eroded away. is there another way to make the models smoother? I think the paint requires a primer so im using it

>>11265722
all right, painting advice aside im still trying to figure out how to make the surfaces smooth along the seamlines. I tried putty and sanding. Should I just go ahead anyways and ask for feedback after the finish?

>>11266271
Not really, vacuum metallization is super fucking cheap to do and it's (on average) a better chrome than any amateur modeler can do. you only get better results if you know how to use alclad or foil chroming. Most of the new easy chrome paints didn't even exist before about 10 years ago.

Anyone have any tips on how to spray indoors in the winter? I live on the 3rd floor of an apartment so i dont have an outdoor space except for a balcony. but i think the paint will get fucked if im spraying in 30F weather

>>11266514
Get a spray booth

>>11266514
>open windows
>turn on fan

My Airfix 1:72 Stuka I am building has three-part bombs: two halves with the fins plus the tail section. Should I even bother with filling the gaps there? It's inside an angle and that whole thing is only as big as my thumbnail in the first place, plus nobody will probably see it. Only I will know.

>>11266351
Keyword: TRIED. You need to go watch some videos on youtube on how to do this properly. PLASMO is very good at it but it's not straightforward to find a video where he does it, so see something like this https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zB4WJog6C5I

>>11266590
Tamiya extra thin + light sanding

>>11266582
>tiny bits of paint vapor gets on everything in your room

>>11266764
It's ok, I'm also a heavy smoker

>>11266771
Well, at least you won't be surprised when you suddenly burst in flames

>>11266764
more like they go out the window

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>>11266771

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YES. I finally got the coveted white primer

>>11266655
>putting globs of putty and spend your time taking 98% of it off
>then watch the phantom gap slowly reappear
dude.. this is 100% me. much thanks for the video. I'll see if I can use melted sprue to fill large gaps

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>>11240852
just DO IT

>have enough kits
>want more
>spend hours looking at scalemates and wishlisting stuff then going and trying to find it for the best price
>find one that's like £30 below rrp
fuckk

2 weeks off from work, immediately sick. fuck this gay earth, I just want to builddddddd

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Assembled most of the 1/48 Arma Hurricane. Gotta say the anon who told me I was in for a sucker with the cockpit was right, it really did not fit at all, I've trimmed and clipped and chopped and lost the gunsight to the interior and I am done trying to get anything more out of it. Pretty annoying because everything else fits brilliantly together and the detail is really nice but oh well won't be visible anyway.

>>11264297
The primer is pretty good. If you've got a decent size diorama to prime you could do worse.

>>11264360
>>11264361
The canopy on zvezdas tandem seat flankers are fucking awful. Shitty gate mark locations with no undergating, canopy frame so thin you can barely tell where to place the masking. I don't understand why they can't just use slide molding like every other company has done since the 80s.
God I wished trumpeter or GWH would make a SU-30SM in 1/72 scale.

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Speaking of SU-30SM, and zvezda. I wonder if the 1/48 kit will be any better or worse...

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i posted here a while back but after a long hiatus im back to working on the AMT star trek TOS bridge kit. I had lost my previous workspace and it took a while before I was able to set up again.

>>11267035
open gun bays is nice, is it included in the kit?

>>11267077
Yeah but nothing to put in there I'm afraid. Still makes it easier if you wanna buy or print some I suppose

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So... 2025 groupbuild? Last time /toy/ did a groupbuild was the Zvezda groupbuild and the shitter kit groupbuild.

I'm proposing a home country groupbuild. Whatever subject you're building it has to be from your own shithole.

Hardmode modifier: it has to be interwar.

>>11267144
Could it at least be in home country scheme because there's a lot of countries with ZERO history of making military vehicles in Europe

>>11267147
That's what I wanted to mean.

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that's not very pc of you airfix

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Where does this Soviet emblem go on a red plane? At least the stars you can make out by the white outline

>>11267144
We had the third world groupbuild this year but nobody participated.

>>11267279
Doesn't your kit have instructions? Box art? Have you tried looking it up on a search engine? Half the point of modelling is to learn about the subject

>>11267279
please start tripfagging so i can filter out your posts, thank you

>>11267402
Instructions barebones and in Russian. Box art doesn't have emblem. Downloaded warthunder to look at 3d model but it still doesn't have the emblem. What do you want me to do, why you so mean

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>>11267402

>>11267433
It's on the right wing?

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>>11267436
I thought this was a smudge from old age. It's just a blurry lump, this is what that's supposed to be?

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Does anyone know what these led sizes are? And where I could more, I don’t need ones with presolderd resistors, the cheaper the better.

>>11267433
Probably for the port side of the green one i.e. you can just leave it.

>>11267471
They're just small surface mounted LEDs. Search for SMD LED on AliExpress or something and you can find heaps

>>11267389
We didn't, for it to be a groupbuild someone has to actually get off his ass and say "I'm in".

>>11267449
It looks like the guards insignia when viewed as a thumbnail from mobile
I would have unironically asked the same question if I was in your place

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>>11267532
>>11267449
>>11267433
Guards unit insignia is always placed near the cockpit on the side of the plane. I don't think I've seen it on the right side ever.

>>11267471
your country must have an electronics parts store that works online, send them a photo with that LED near a ruler/scale so they can know how big they are and they will help you out

>>11267562
>>11267526
Thanks anons, Ill see what i can find. I like this because they have long leads that I can bend into place when positioning the lights in their final place. If I can source more of these in other colors like soft white, red, yellow, blue, green etc, I'd be set

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sup /smg/, havent posted in a year or something, barely even built anything.
But this is a 1/35 Zvezda T-80UD, absolutely miserable kit fit-wise, but like i said last time, i aint going to get expensive as hell RFM kit for a kitbash.

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>>11267690
>How doest the autoloader work with 2 guns, there is no space!
Its alternative timeline WW2 with tesla coils and stuff, i aint gotta explain shit
>Internet says its armed with 2 105mm guns!
Caliber seems to be weird, might as well stay with 125mm or go to 100/115mm.

>>11267692
Based. There's too much realism autism in model making already, there should be room for more like this

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>>11267696
Idea for the model has been gnawing in the back of my head for past few years. I guess there are better alternatives for modifying the turret this much than using styrene sheets and Apoxie sculpt, but I couldnt think of any. I guess i´ll start running into more problems when i try to get the turret ERA mounted around the guns and getting the smooth transition from sculpt into the model itself, but its nothing shitloads of Mr. Surfacer wont fix I hope.

>>11267167
buccaneer enjoyer?

>>11267167
>buddy, that's my wife . jpeg

>>11267432
I want you to try and learn on your own like you've been told you should do three times already
You've asked questions that are answered by a two minute search or ten seconds of thinking for like five days straight
Where do you think a pure red decal is supposed to go on a pure red plane

>>11267752
I was reading the instructions on scalemates yeah

>>11267692
I have thought of making this conversion with a modelcollect T-80U, I think the best course of action is to place the twin guns as close as possible to retain the most from the size and shape of the turret screens

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>>11267279
here's how to do a non retarded filling job (not gonna get you any IPMS medals but it'll do the job and won't look like cheese is stuck to your plane). Use only the absolute minimum of filler you can see the top picture, I scraped everything off immediately before it could cure so it was flush with the edges. then literally just sand it a little bit with 400-800 grit and the holes are gone and it's FINE.

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is there a guide out there to lighting? can I run a split line if I have two separate model objects to be lit, or do I need to run the whole thing in a series?

>>11267902
Maybe you should ask this on /diy/

>>11267905
nobody here ever lights up their models?

>>11267916
I bought the equipment for it but I'm a total brainlet when it comes to electronics and couldn't tell you why

>>11267054
Ther's a lot of decent Su-30SM kits. Not something people have waited for I guess.

>>11267918
No worries anon. after skimming the thread it looks like a lot of the types of models being made here wouldnt really be lit up anyways

>>11267690
>he still buys the 1980s Dragon kit.
when will people learn?

>>11267928
I bought it for some cars where I wanted to do a mini diorama maybe with a camera flash going off but my soldering/crimping was totally and completely useless even on a breadboard level and I guess it was so demotivating that I just shelved the whole deal lmao. But I am pretty sure you can run the LEDs in both series and parallel as long as you have enough oomph to power them https://www.instructables.com/LED-Lighting-in-Plastic-Models/

>>11267902
you can run LEDs in parallel, you just want to make each LED has its own resistor. It's probably easier than running in series anyway

>>11267916
"Lighting" is different from "wiring". The first can be done without understanding anything about the second one.

>>11267965
what a useful and informative post. Your contribution answered the question at hand completely and thoroughly, all without getting bogged down in colloquialisms that someone who hasnt had a face to face conversation in years may have had trouble understanding.

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>>11267934
Like i said, I am not going to buy a good quality modern kit that costs 3 times more for something im about to kitbash.

>>11267979
You're welcome.

>>11267965
how can you put lighting in the model without wiring?

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It starts coming together. The bomb marking decals were an absolute bitch to apply and they still look crooked from certain angles.
Also, I have no idea why I spent so much time on the interior, since I plan on doing closed canopy with the dudes inside.

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Did anybody besides dragon make one of these M4 FL10 kits? I love this weird tank but I get the feeling if I were to try and just slap a sherman and amx-13 kit together they wouldn't fit right. I know that was an issue with them IRL

>>11268002
there's still a fuckton you can see through a closed canopy

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Put together some barrels and printed mantles. Maybe should have placed barrels closer together but holes for guns are carved out so we gaan now.

>>11268673
hell fucking yeah

>>11268673
looks great, any plans for radar/rangefinder between the guns?

>>11268676
I do want to place the IR light somewhere around there even if it doesnt exist in reference pictures. I need to first see how it looks with the turret ERA mountings/flaps on their places before i make any bigger plans for changing sighting equipment and light positions.

>>11268349
I swear to God, takom released one right around the time they released their AMX bunch, but I woke up in another reality again

>>11268673
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RyGtCWLOGJU

>>11268751
who do I unalive for fumbling Westwood studios and the C&C series?
Tiberian Sun and RA2 were the absolute peak

Well the last old school model shop in my area finally closed down. I was there in 2023 and it was just an old man at a counter and a bunch of older guys at a roundtable talking about models or MtG or something. I went by last weekend and the store is vacant but apparently now they're an online-only shop now. end of an era.

>>11268766
what will happen to the boomers when they don't have anywhere left to socialise and not buy any models.

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Tamiya colors finally arrived. For comparison, I did a quick and dirty brush paintjob on the "empty" seat. Really a huge difference to the Humbrol.

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Started the painting process of the Arma Hurricane. I've never built an Arma Hobby kit before, but are they all like this? The molds are beautiful and detailed and lovely but the kit really doesn't go together all that well. I had to bend the canopy by force to get it to fit and like I wrote before the cockpit is just fucked up and impossible to get the fuselage to go around without cutting pieces off. At least it's looking pretty good in the assembled state.

>>11268829
That still looks a bit wonky. Can you go through your whole thinning/painting process? It should be smooth. Pressures, thinners, go through the whole process.

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>>11268802
They'll do what every other boomer does. Find an online forum to hold court, and find new ways to be as pedantic and condescending as superhumanly possible.

>>11268832
>Can you go through your whole thinning/painting process?
As I said, quick and dirty brush painting, so no pressures. Thinning to my usual viscosity for brush painting.
This was just for a quick comparison to show how much grainier that Humbrol color is. The Tamiya one isn't really noticeable from even just a few inches away, and the potato quality makes it look worse than it is.
I'll have to see now how it works for spraying.

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>>11268837
>tfw at least two more decades of boomer shenanigans await us

>>11268837
Going to start teaching Boomers discord and bring discord down from the inside.

>>11268908
Extremely based please do, Discord has ruined the internet

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I regret putting the black powder on the transmission too, since grime doesnt really accumulate like that IRL. I'm still really happy with the results otherwise though

>>11268917
lmao did you drop it into coffee grounds?

>>11268913
that's like saying IRC ruined the internet

>>11268930
yeah but normies didn't know how to use it then

>>11268917
>least grimey v8 in a boomer's '70 firebird

>>11268926
its actually black embossing powder. I laid on some testors "fx black wash" really thick and just sprinkled the powder on, and then sealed it in with a layer of flat clear, then started adding more oil and rusty staining. definitely should have kept it only around the lower part but oh well

>>11268935
Don't worry, it looks great otherwise and I doubt it will be noticeable from further away.

>>11268931
the problem with discord isn't the normies, it's the tr00noids and powertripping autistic gen alphas
I've been hanging out in the boxman's server for a while and wew lad, the guy with his XOBBI jak15 from the 70s would fit right in; overall weak server population, save for one south east asian dude who was making paper warships from scratch

Is there an alternative to PA glue for clear parts? I'm all out and one clear part is actually preventing me from progressing further with the model.

>>11269000
clear gloss just to tack it in place?

>>11269000
it's not like you CAN'T use super glue on them you just need to be super careful and apply extremely little

>>11269000
Tamiya extra thin works4me

>>11269000
plastic cement works well if you aren't retarded and don't touch the canopy with fingers full of glue

Thanks guys. I always thought it was the fumes that were fogging up the plastic.

>>11269058
from all the people repeating this I'm sure it's possible, but it has never happened to me. obviously working in small scale and using as little glue as possible, just a couple of tiny dots

what diameter wire would you use to detail up certain scales? 1:24, 1:48 and 1:35.

>>11269058
>>11269077
Generally the fogging happens from using excess glue and getting it directly on the clear bits either by just over-applying or having some on your fingers. I have done it many times when I was retarded or impatient.

>>11269081
You mean lead wire? 0.1mm in increments up to 0.5mm depending on purpose and scale is what I have but I don't use it a lot

>>11269083
yeah lead wire, braided hose things like that.

>>11269084
I got some 0.6 and 0.3mm braided line that is for 1:24 scale according to the bag but I mean the 0.6mm is only good for really large lines in an engine bay if it has to be correctly scaled. The 0.3 seems more in-scale

>>11269077
>>11269083
Ya, thanks again. Used the Tamiya extra thin, worked like a charm. Only got it today, but holy shit that stuff FUCKS.
It's like welding, but for plastic!

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finished my display cabinet. now I can keep my autism somewhat contained to the basement

>>11269086
just something for like spark plug wires to make an engine bay a bit more interesting so 0.3 sounds alright.

>>11268764
EA games killed Westwood among many other companies they took over.

>>11269171
I know it's EA, they also killed Bullfrog and the sports games, I wanna know WHO specifically

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>>11269091
>imagine not proudly displaying your work in the middle of the living room
NGMI

>>11269389
thats where my dreadnought is. Ship models are classy and I've got a spot for another ship in there

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next im going to figure out how to make some dents, maybe add a few scrapes to the bumpers and then I think thats about good enough for the body

>>11269091
You have the nicest furniture.

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>>11269389
>imagine not proudly displaying your work in the middle of your store
Old ladies WILL get a lecture about modern main battle tanks.

>>11252515
Trumpeter:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dyQ0Uq7Ffdo

>>11269091
>visible 2 foot high stack
Nice cabinet though. Did you make it yourself or just assemble it?

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>>11269545
>>11269630
Built myself. Sort of using it as a test for the french cleat mounting method since I want to build my own kitchen cabinets and drop em in like that. It passes the 5 foot test, but it is racked, gap between doors is too large, never bothered to fill nail holes or sand everything flush. The usual hack fuckery that I do. Stash is up to 69 kits and I've got them squirreled away everywhere, I love it

Anyway, to that anon who picked the 223, you are not forgotten. I finally finished it. But I'm not doing a dio.

I'm gonna keep crushing my backlog. Little willie and zhalo or next

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downshirt view

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and looking in through the door

>>11269643
>>11269641
>>11269640
This is very nice, thank god for the occasional not overweathered WWII vehicle

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The fit on this thing is sometimes a bit icky, considering it was a brand new tool when I bought that kit. Well, nothing a bit of filling and sanding won't solve.

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Also, the mg ports for the wings were pretty shit; not uniform and just plain sticks. I am currently drilling them and plan on using pieces of a medical needle, right after finding out how to actually produce them. Inserting a piece of wire to prevent the walls from getting pinched whem cutting it didn't work, and using the only metal saw I have would probably also not do any good.

>>11269556
they better do, at this rate they're gonna be drafted before the decade is over

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Did a bit more on the mazda. Big rough but eh it's a crapkit and I'm just using it to shake the rust off. Underside got sprayed black too.

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Seems like Vallejos paint tone is just a touch too bright but I guess the clear coats will fix that. Pretty happy with the camo pattern for now, not many touch ups to do

>>11269867
Nice finish, did you use an airbrush or a brush ?

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>>11270010
Airbrush masked with a dollar store equivalent of blu-tac and some tape

>>11270016
Nice.
I'm a brush with Vallejo paints.
They're hard to work with.

How do you guys sand rounded surfaces? Like nacelles, missiles, etc.?
If I can clamp something I use a strip of sanding paper with both hands, but what about smaller stuff?
That's why I am thinking about building a sanding paper strip holder, similar to those dental floss sticks, but I don't really have an idea what I can use for it. It can't be something big; something like a fork with two pincers on each end would probably be fine, but of course it would also have to be rigid and sturdy.
Has anyone else made such a contraption or am I thinking too complicated?

>>11270205
Sanding sponges. They conform well to the surface but are much "steadier" than just using straight up sandpaper so you retain the curvature. And to be clear, I don't mean those sticks you can get, I mean the 1/4" thick sponge with sandpaper adhered to it.

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>>11269463
I got retarded with the heat trying to make a dent and ruined the body, so this is about as far as I'm gonna go with it. I think it still looks pretty good and I learned some new things so overall it was a good experience

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very warped :(

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>contest in 3 weeks
>literally nothing ready for competition
Fuck bros I'm gonna have to travel 3 hours with mid trash hoping I get Bronze or some shit

I feel like I need to take PTO to make headway sometimes

>>11269752
looks cute

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>>11270401
I got goaded into the annual scale model show by a friend that does aircraft, in 3 weeks I built and entered this panzer 4 and got 3rd place in 48 scale armor

>>11270545
>3rd place in 48 scale armor
out of total 3 entrants?

>tfw you've nearly finished a model but you've still got to do the fucking landing gears

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>>11270545
>Bulgaria
mfw the chance of bumping into one of you (probably) sweaty fat faggots at say Mosonshow is non-zero

Also: becoming Nightshift's most obsessive stalker when the 2025 East-Yuropoor hobby show season starts: yay or nay?

>>11270400
Time to make that car one that has been in a side impact kek

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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P_LC0wRLHHo

Does anyone make these? "1:72 comically slow drones"?

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Think this is about ready for clear coat now. I tried painting this thing with much thinner paint and lower pressures than usual and that has really done the trick with the surfaces and my shitty puffy compressor even though it's taken 3 times as long as normal. Also another literally god damn why for this Arma kit, all of the gates for the propeller were on the actual blades rather than the hub. It's really weird how they seemingly have this level of detail but fuck up on the basics.

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Should scale model companies start pandering to the bandai audience and start making their kits entirely snapshit with stickers only?

>>11270401
>I feel like I need to take PTO to make headway sometimes
After barely touching any of my kits for months, 1 week into a 17day break and I am a modeling machine and actually enjoying myself for once. Modern day 'work' is the great satan

>>11270623
Nice plane. Very smooth finish for Vallejo, I always struggle with that, it's either a little pebbly or a little runny.

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Painted the structure and whatever those instruments are to the best of my shaky hand ability.
I only found a reference in b/w, but I think it looks nice enough from afar.

>>11270704
>tremors
it's all about proper elbow bracing against whatever feels the most comfortable for you
I prefer leaning back in the chair I appropriated during the corona-chan-enforced home office, elbows set firmly on the side rests and forearms pressed into my lower ribs
the used to be a tutorial by a wargamer with parkinsons about this, but he deleted it from the jutube, fuck knows why; he used a literal brick, pressed his elbows into the desk and forearms into the brick, leaning forward on the chair

>>11270664
revell (?) has prepainted snap kits, but I've only seen ones for cars and tractors

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Little william getting ready for a satin coat and oil weathering.

>>11270749
is that a huge crane? neat

>>11270545
>>11270623
Good stuff fellas

>be me
>build model
>look at it and I am happy with my work
>think I might share it
>come to this place, feel disappointed about my work
>too embarrassed to share.
Do you anons really want to see the quest model in the thread. I tried my hardest, honest.

>>11270743
Sadly, my tremors come from the fingers themselves. For delicate stuff like this my technique is basically putting the fingers of both hands together and then slowly moving around. Then, in the worst moment possible, I cough or twitch.
Also, I found that I find it progressively harder to properly focus and judge distance, mainly because my eyes are pretty different in their myopia. I used one of magnifying spectacles thing, but lately I can't seem to get proper stereoscopic vision with that thing anymore.
Maybe I should bite the bullet and graduate to 1:35. I am not even 40.

>>11270765
noooo, it's the 'steering' assembly, I just dont have the large wheels on.

>>11270802
do it, this is mongo hq and no one knows who you actually are anyway. You might get a couple hardass boomer comments, but they never come with a picture of their own work.

>>11270802
being nomdodels is worse than posting a bad model.

>>11270802
One of the cool things about /smg/ and basically nowhere else is you get honest criticism and tips. There's no circlejerking and only updoots allowed or some retarded shit. So post it and say what you struggled with so people can actually help you get good

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All this talk about nomodels has encouraged me to post my attempt at sculpting gun mantle blast bags from today. This is my first time ever using Tamiya Epoxy Putty and i can totally see why everyone uses it compared to Apoxie Sculpt i´ve been using before. Im pretty satisfied with the results even if they seem comically large compared to the T-64 I used as a reference.

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>>11270813
>>11270845
>>11270849
I kept the gear retractable, because why not. I still need to decal, add the tail wheel and paint it with flat finish stuff, but it is close enough to being done. Paints were custom mixed from craft store paints. They needed copious thinning. The model is brush painted too. (I have no place to use an airbrush in the house.)

The kit is the old Airfix. My next build will be a Revell Huey in 1/32, followed by an Airfix Mig-23.

>>11270854
Looks exactly like my foreskin, top work

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>>11270858
Okay so I'm gonna stick to my words and give you some advice. First off, you're (maybe deliberately?) missing the landing light glass on the wing. Second, you should paint the birdcage around the cockpit. Yeah it's hard, but you gotta practice to get good at it. You can cut a bit of sprue and sharpen it with a pencil sharpener, that plastic stick will be good for scraping any excess paint off the glass if you accidentally paint over. It's not the end of the world so just try it and develop the skill.

For being thinned craft store paints that's not too bad of a result honestly but it's probably adviseable to get some more model kit happy paints in the future. You can buy brands like Italeri that make BIG bottles that you need to thin that'll last forever if you're on a budget. They're just fine to do with paintbrushes if you thin it down, pic related is a build i did a decade ago in my dorm room on a super tight budget with that. Use largeish paint brushes (like 1cm wide) for large areas it helps and the thinning should let it level.

Finally, as you can probably see on my old ass build, I recommend you find some sort of putty for the gaps in future builds. >>11266655 has a good method using super glue and scrap plastic while >>11267864 was done with Tamiya Putty which you can sand pretty easily. A tube will last you 50+ models so it's not that expensive if you can find it somewhere

>>11270875
Forgot to mention that. I have the part, it will be added later.

Mind showing me an example of the bird cage painted? I did some painting of the frames, but it is very hard to see. ( I willa coffee up picture later). Should I use the paint or of the pot? I feel that thicker paint could help with details.

I use Squadron filler, but Milliput or something similar would be nice.

How are TruColor? My local hobby shop has some. I used to use Testors Model Master before it got discontinued.

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>>11270893
You simply paint the bird cage in the same color as the body. The whole plane will have been painted in camouflaged state so if the metal bar ends at a brown spot, you just paint it brown and so on. Look closely on this Blenheim for instance.

I would say you probably need to trim your parts a bit better then. If those gaps are "filled" gaps then you start out with way too much gap. Sand/cut as desired (that Hurricane I'm building atm I mentioned I had to chop quite a bit off the cockpit to make it fit).

TruColor is for food.... Please go on Amazon if your local hobby stores don't carry any modern brands. Italeri, Vallejo, Ammo and Revell (acrylic) are mixable and intercompatible if you want to have more than one option. Tamiya and Mr Color can also be mixed but need special thinner instead of water. And finally please stay away from enamel paints unless you wanna make everything harder and more prolonged for you in the beginning. I'd pick one of the two acrylic families above.

>>11270858
Literally 100 times better than whatever the fuck happend here >>11270664. Steady on and keep building, make sure to keep learning new things and trying them out every build.

>>11270858
the paintjob is pretty good given the paints you used.

>>11270806
the wrist-to-wrist technique and gripping the leading wrist were in that video I mentioned, coupled with bracing the elbows on the desk and forearms on the brick
sorry about your eyesight, anon, hopefully you can get it fixed

>>11270854
Damn that's nice

What's currently the best 1:48 F-35 kit? I saw that the newest releases are from Tamiya and Italeri of all brands.

>>11270939
Italeris 1/48 F-35B has a fucked up canopy
Kitty hawk is kitty hawk
Hobbyboss isn't out
Meng and Tamiya are the only serious options for the F-35 in 1/48 scale. And between those two, tamiya beats it out in almost every metric besides price.

>>11270854
>posting that on a blue board
risky move, anon

>>11270999
kitty hawk also went out of business didnt they?

>>11271020
Someone bought all the tooling and revived it so they're still around

>>11271020
they did for obvious reasons (turns out charging tamiya pricing for literal dogshit kits doesn't result in good sales) and their toolings got bought up by some other company

what makes people interested in F-35s

>>11271030
they look cool

>>11271030
The modern day NATO fighter. Everyone and their grandma's air force will be flying it just like the Viper before it

>>11270899
Alright, sounds good with the painting. I will try to buy Italeri, since they are the closest I can find to Model Master, send to be a similar consistency too.

I also have Humbrol 56, which I used on the cowlings, forgot to mention this. I quite like the color, though I know Humbrol paint is not the best.

The wing gap is originally due to not properly trimming the late sprue gates, now that you mention it
>>11270904
Thank you. I will post the finished result and post about the Huey somewhat frequently.
>>11270906
Thank you.
>>11271024
I thought Kinetic was the bad one. I might be getting confused, though.

Thanks guys for the replies.

>>11271030
As the anon who asked I can tell you that I am not interested in that piece of shit in the slightest, but my dad likes it for some reason and he has been looking for an assembled model for quite some time and I thought it would be cool to make one for him as a gift. Not for christmas anymore, of course, but his birthday isn't that far away anymore.

>>11271051
>I thought Kinetic was the bad one
They used to be quite awful but their toolings from the past 6 years have been consistantly quite good.

>>11271053
Not him, but that sounds like a nice gift. I did that with a couple of Gee Bees a while ago.

>>11271059
Alright, makes sense. Seems like a lot of companies have a similar pattern (ICM, for example).

>>11270802
I've posted a few works of art here and derived a few handy hints amid the sea of airbrusher seething. Be brave!

Stuka anon here, does anybody have any ACTUAL sources on the color of the small bomb pylons of the pre-G model variants?
On modern illustrations and in vidya (e.g. IL-2) they are usually the same color as the underside (the luftwaffe light blue), but on actual photographs I found they look way darker, but that could be just shadows.
The old tyme quality of those photographs also doesn't help.

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That's nuts.

>>11271172
No, that's Schachtellaufwerk.

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>>11271134
Thank you.

Here is the repainted bird cage. It looks much better. Paint was used straight from the bottle and a toothpick was used to both paint and scrape.

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>>11271138
Went to look in my books, but even Stuka Pilot is all in black and white. I know War Thunder is a bit of a meme source, but in general the planes are pretty accurately modelet. Anyway it's the best I could find and it seems they paint them black or maybe it's bare low grade steel that's been oxidized.

>>11271232
Thanks, that's in accordance with my suspicion, though I will make my life easy and paint them the same color as the bombs. It's not like anyone but me will ever notice.

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>>11271254
Turns out I think the pic you were looking for to confirm it was on /k/ this whole time. Looks similar to War Thunder to me (but I have no idea if this is colorized or actually shot in color)

>>11271138
The ETC 50/VIII bomb racks are usually dark grey and not underwing colour. Note that this is usually also true for ETC 50 variants carried by bf110, bf109, Fw190 as well. If the parts are molded with round end caps, these would go silver or light blue if you want to go that far. You can web search ETC 50/VIII and usually find pictures of surviving examples (or pieces of them) but they may not be the specific subvariant you need. In any case, you can't go wrong with dark grey.

>>11271197
Toothpick is a good call. I use a mini flathead screwdriver to scrape. Canopies are always a real bastard to paint.

>>11271322
Nice, what's your source on that? Can you recommend some good books?

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>>11271340
I got the specification of the bomb rack type out of the Haynes Stuka Manual. I searched that, did some poking around, and while I didn't find the specific ETC 50/VIII rig of the stuka I found other pictures of luftwaffe hardpoints that matched up. Since they're dark in the stuka pictures, dark in restorations, dark as surviving pieces, that's a pretty good consensus. I tried to find an RLM code but nada. It might just be a dull bare finish. Here's the rack off an FW-190A-8 as an example.

>>11271350
Might not be an RLM code to find "officially" but my trained eye says that one is RLM75 Grauviolett

>>11271353
RLM75 would be pretty close, yeah. I couldn't find out if they were painted or if the metal was treated with some kind of coating. For scale work it wouldn't matter much, just annoys me to hit a dead end.

The Haynes manual is decent, but honestly if the history part was stripped out (since you can get this anywhere) and there were more technical bits instead it would be superb. But it's a reasonably detailed look and a decent modeling reference.

>>11271350
Heh, I just ordered that one a few days ago. Since I'm not in the UK, it will probably only arrive after I have already finished that build lol. Though it will not be my last; I love the Ju-87 and want to build a G variant afterwards.

I think I will just go with whatever grey I am painting the bombs with; I found some old american "german ordnance" that also talks about the colors of the bombs (although this one says that all the SC 50 were sandy grey or dark green, but I already assembled the bomb/rack construction and I really don't want to do a double-take and paint one of the parts in another color after doing the whole thing).

Still thanks for the help.

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Also, since it annoys the ever-loving shit out of me that hardly any Stuka reference books show the original prototype with the twin-fins, here it is.

>>11271375
What an ugly piece of shit, no wonder it's getting memory-holed.
I also don't like the look of the wheel spats on the A. Too art deco for my tastes.

>>11271373
It never hurts to look around but references can be inaccurate, contradictory, all kinds of things. Color photos from the war aren't reliable because of the stock. Some reconstructions were based off color plate paintings that "interpreted" colors. Inaccurate restorations polluted references (see Caunter scheme, that tank museum error STILL has legs). But you can at least usually find something that's an aesthetic best guess because somebody out there was looking for the same thing before. I mean, at least we're not still working only off Testors FS codes or Humbrol mixes anymore like in the barbarian age.

>>11271375
There has always been something "puny" to me about two bladed props. Dunno why the three bladed one makes it so much better

>>11271381
Personally I collect a shitload of random books and biographies but use them more for a "what are the paint schemes like" than "what specific color code gets me the correct result". I 100% subscribe to the idea that perfect standardization in color isn't possible (even today, working my day job, we cannot match colors between suppliers and materials despite using standardized paint codes like RAL or Pantone) so close enough is probably more realistic than most people would claim

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>>11271377
>and then we put giant trousers on our dive-bomber, which was the style at the time

>>11271336
Consider a medical scraper. I have one, but since I was already using a toothpick, I opted to use it instead. You can get such scrapers/picks from flea markets and secondhand tool stores, as well as medical supply stores.

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Italeri moment
I'm not actually sure how to solve this