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File: 1731907311988496.jpg (301 KB, 3856x2648)
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Previous thread: >>11263092

Too lazy to make up an edition edition

This thread is for the discussion of scale plastic (and resin, PE, wood, etc) models kit
-Post photos of your builds in progress and your finished builds
-Have your builds critiqued or critique others
-Discuss tips and techniques
-Ask for advice or give advice to others

Always remember:
>No manufacturer is purely perfect or awful (except Aoshima). ALWAYS research your kits before buying.

Some helpful guides to get started:
https://www.scalemates.com/
http://www.mediafire.com/view/1vf1aw7v91pz5pa/Airfix%20Model%20World%20Specia%20%28Scale%20Modelling%20Step-By-Step%29.pdf
http://www.scalemodelguide.com/
http://www.modelersite.com/en/area/98/scale-models-techniques
http://fichtenfoo.net/blog/model-tutorials-and-in-progs
http://ipmsstockholm.org/
https://www.perthmilitarymodelling.com/
http://www.primeportal.net/home.htm
https://www.flickr.com/photos/156268995@N04/albums

Plus there are tons of people on YouTube with pretty good videos on techniques etc.

Some sites to purchase models, extras, and supplies:
>ebay
https://www.dersockelshop.de/ (GER)
https://www.scalehobbyist.com/index.php (US)
https://www.alfahobby.se/ (SWE)
http://spruebrothers.com/ (US)
https://freetimehobbies.com/ (US)
http://www.hobbyeasy.com/ (HK)
http://www.luckymodel.com/ (HK)
http://www.hlj.com/ (JP)
https://www.modellbau-koenig.de/en (GER)
http://www.1999.co.jp/eng/m/ (JP)
https://www.hannants.co.uk/ (UK)
https://www.jadarhobby.pl/index.php?language=en (PL)
https://www.bnamodelworld.com/ (AUS)
http://volksusastore.com/webstores/scale/ (US) (Carry Mr. Color and GaiaNotes paint)
https://www.emodels.co.uk/ (UK)
https://www.wonderlandmodels.com/
https://www.super-hobby.com (EU/UK/RU/US/PL)
https://plastmodel.pl/ (PL/EU)
https://agtom.eu/en/(PL/EU)
https://exito.site/en_GB/index(PL/EU)
https://m-zone.pl (PL only)
>>
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First attempt at anything scale model related. Always wanted to get into it. Tamiya kit, tamiya paints, all brush except primer. I feel like I went too hard on the dry brushing for the weathered metal effect. Loved using the black panel liner and seeing the capillary effect take place. Doing the figures tomorrow after touching up the overpaint on these.
>>
>>11277239
still looks bright and patchy to me. is this supposed to be gloss sea blue?
>>
>>11277637
that's some really dark wood, anon
I'm curious which tamiya paints you chose because Iya Tom-san doesn't recommend you brush paint with their acrylics
>>
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Could you use a hobby airbrush compressor to fill a car tire? I know a regular hardware air compressor can easily manage an airbrush but those tend be large and very noisy so i'm hoping to go the other way and knock out 2 jobs with 1 piece of gear
>>
>>11277697
it will take you a week or so but sure, why not
>>
>>11277680
Its Red Brown, same color the kits indicated for the wooden stock. I didn't like how bright they were so I gave it a layer of black panel liner. It really was a pain in the ass with the pain drying up real fast even in my paint dish.
>>
>>11277737
i recommend to you using water-based acrylics for brush painting figs and such

if you plan on using the paints you have now on your figs it will 1) be painful as fuck 2) ruin your brushes 3) not look good, at all
>>
>>11277697
The chink special hobby compressor everyone gets is 1/5HP and a compressor you buy at a hardware store/auto parts store is going to be 2+ HP
>>
>>11277755
Interesting. I will look into that. Thanks Anon.
>>
>>11277755
Bought a ton of Vallejos at my local shop. I think I'll be happier with these. Saw a bunch of vallejo painted minifigs there too.
>>
>>11277697
I doubt the AS-186 can fill a wheelbarrow tyre let alone a car one
>>
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Newfag here. I just started collecting figma and 1/12 scale figures.
What are some 1/12 scale kits that would be fun to assemble for them?
Vehicles preferred but anything else is okay as long as it is 1/12.
Also, not too expensive.
>>
>>11277632
Just about any non obscure bike you can think of probably has a kit from fujimi, aoshima or tamiya
>>
>>11277632
Are Woodkrafter model ship kits welcome?
>>
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>>11278413
That's a before, here's the end result...
>>
>>11278413
>>11278414
all models are welcome
you just end at assembly or you gonna paint it and add rigging?
>>
>>11278481
I've already painted the outside of the hull a matte black, as a simple tar coat is accurate to the time and place (a New England trading vessel circa 1790 to 1830). Then I used some white paint and added small painted-on false cannon ports, a common trick used by Yankee Traders to make their vessels seem more imposing and frighten off pirates (in reality, there would be one or two one-pound swivels at most for signaling purposes and a handful of muskets and tools/blades for the crew if things got bad). As for rigging and sail, I'm going to add some torn string and intentionally tattered cloth to make it look like the ship has run aground on a reef following a storm. This is part of a larger diorama that will also include a "from scratch" Malay pirate junk that I'll share either in customs or on /diy/. So, it's not a 100% end result, but that is the main result for painting and the base job. I'm also adding a 15-star American flag and 10 to 15mm generic pirates or tar sailors to stand in as the crew. Stay tuned.
>>
>>11278319
figmaballs lmao
>>
>>11278413
please clean
>>
>>11278319
scalemates dotcom and use the search function
>>
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>last chance to get order from hobby shop
>car battery drained due to cold
very cool
>>
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I am getting better at airbrushing, but now I have noticed something weird:
Single, large grains on the surface.
Color is Tamiya, thinned at 1:2 paint:thinner, plus a drop of retarder, at 20 psi.
Coat is super thin, not comparable to what I am used from brush painting, but these spots are weird. Could that be some kind of dried paint residue in the airbrush that got carried out? I swear I always clean this thing like a benchrester cleans his barrel. Googling didn't help.
>>
>>11278628
Could be dust in your painting area
>>
>>11278628
There's dust in the air that gets blown on your model. It is very hard to avoid that.
>>
>>11278601
have you tried not being poor?
>>
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>>11278628
wash yo benis, clean yo room
>>
>>11278628
do you get a lot of flooding? 1:2 paint:thinner at 20psi seems very high.
>>
>>11278565
Thank you.
>>
>>11278638
>>11278651
Well shit, seems like I have to double-check in the future.

>>11278660
The royal penis is clean, your highness

>>11278752
Didn't notice any. From what I could gather, Tamiya colors need to be diluted a lot, and Plasmo said that the first coat should be very thin and transparent, so I heeded that advice.
>>
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Roastie got me an upgrade of a compressor for Christmas, it's much quieter with the tank. The vibrations are not nearly as strong with that extra weight
>>
>>11278824
>foam under the compressor
good idea. but dont be mean to your gf.
>>
>>11278828
*tips fedora*
>>
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Any tips for doing this squiggly camo on my BF-110? I'm absolutely practicing on a scrap piece of paper or something first, but I'm clueless as far as ballpark PSI or thinning ratio goes
>>
>>11278832
It's really hard to say anything but "experiment" but you want a very thin mix and low pressure so the paint doesn't dry on the way to the plane but also thin enough that you can get a very small amount out
>>
>>11278832
could you just use a pen
>>
>>11278836
I wanted to get some of those nice ak acrylic paint markers but it seems like nobody local has them and the full 34 piece set is out of stock everywhere for some reason.
>>
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They didn't have any of the AK pens but they had these Bandai Gundam pens so I figured why not.
It doesn't look terrible but it doesn't look that great either. I was hoping it would be a bit darker but this was the only shade of gray they had that wasn't a super fine point. Thankfully I'm not terribly invested in this kit since the rest of it was kind of crap too. Hopefully my 1:48 scale BF-110 from Revell turns out better, whenever I get to that one
>>
>>11278919
Just do a second pass bro
>>
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>>11278939
I did, I was worried at first I wouldnt be able to accurately follow the lines again because my hands are so shakey but it wasn't actually that hard

I'd say its looking pretty good so far. I could have it pretty much done tonight but I'm waiting on a canopy mask which isn't likely to get here until tomorrow at least.
>>
>>11278832
For this type of camo and the kind more like spots, you can basecoat with the camo colour and then mask it with masking putty worms or blobs. When you spray the light colour over it and peel the putty off you will get the same result. This is particularly useful if it has soft edges and you don't trust your dexterity with an airbrush or if you can't get it to spray fine lines.

Also, for larger camo patterns where you want a precision soft edge you can mask using file folder cardboard cut to pattern. Roll up masking tape or poster tack blobs to conform it to the surface keeping the edge slightly raised. The height of the cardboard will dictate the softness of the overspray. That's an old boomer trick for complex curves I got out of an ancient Scale Modeler mag but it works.

Both useful even if all you have is a craptastic .5 chinesium AB.
>>
>>11279089
That's obvious now that I actually think about it. Now I might just have to try making a camo like that because I've always held off on it for being a bit too difficult.

>>11279075
I'd say this looks very solid though, especially given these camos were completely random irl and trying to match one 1:1 is insane
>>
were the luftwaffe just trying to fuck over scale modellers
>>
>>11279366
yes in fact göring was such a hardcore scale modeler he deliberately did all this just so only he could have accurate models
source: mein kampf
>>
>>11279366
No, but the modern arms industry is.
>>
>>11279414
These are quite easily replicated with decals though. The swirl camo would require nightmare size decals or nightmare levels of decal alignment
>>
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>>11279414
just freehand it, bro, like the lozenge camo
>>
>>11279414
it's ok, modern stuff is soulless anyway
>>
>>11279075
Hey, that doesn't look half bad. Good technique to remember.
>>
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How's my new years haul boys? The 1:400 typhoon has missile bays that open
>>
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And also, a 1:48 b1b bomber. Look st this beauty. The box was half the size of my body
>>
>>11279608
>>11279611
anon, please consult with a professional, for your sake and ours
>>
>>11279611
>>11279608
If you're that dude with the Corsair and the Yak, deeply and sincerely fuck you and get a different hobby
>>
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Unboxed this '91 issue ARII Ki-43 and the decals are pretty yellow. Whats the best place to get new decal sets? I know you can look on scalemates to see ones that exist, but where do you actually BUY them? I've got an 80s airfix mk1 hurricane kitneeding decals too.
>>
>>11279635
You've got to surf eBay or go for some actual manufacturers of decals to see if they make a replacement or better set. My go-to-method is going to Super-Hobby and finding the model I have (or its reboxed versions) and scrolling down to see the related articles. They've really done their job well in indexing everything to be interdependent. It might not be they have them in stock, but they definitely have the name of a manufacturer you can find it from.
>>
>>11279632
Why should he do that?
>>
Hello /smg/, I used to love scale models but haven't done them in many years. Is there a site that has a directory of different models from different companies that I could go on and find, for example, specific ships or planes and see which company makes them, year released, etc? Thank you
>>
>>11279644
keeps buying the worst ancient kits known to man, builds them all in one go spending no time getting better at assembling them, then shits up the thread complaining about not getting the results he wanted, rinse and repeat
>>
>>11279648
first link in op
>>
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>>11279650
I thought you were mad at him for only building shit kits. But if rest is true then fuck that guy.
Speaking of shit kits, I havent gotten forward with my RA Heavy Tank, Im afraid to look for references that show the correct installation of the T-80U turret ERA skirts because i bet the kit parts look nothing like its supposed to be.
>>
>>11279655
No on the other hand i'd be very impressed if he kept getting great results with shit kits, but instead he built about 8 of them and learned nothing except "more paint coats makes paint darker"
>>
>>11279651
Thanks anon, I can't find a good Type VII u-boat interior model, does anyone here know of one
>>
>>11279668
if scalemates doesn't show it, it doesn't exist
>>
>>11279709
is that why I cant find any scale models of my will to live on there
>>
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I botched a ridiculously simple kit... God I am really not going to make it...

The Blenheim is done by the way, if anyone is interested, I will share it as well.
>>
>>11279785
its not botched its practice
you're not the yak guy so you'll get better
>>
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>>11279788
Thank you, but this is my 80th kit, though I did take a break at one point...

Unrelated, but should I bid on an auction for more of these 144th aircraft kits? I already have a stash of about 20 kits.
>>
>>11279791
professional athletes still practice and train everyday
>>
>>11279791
whats botched about it?
>>
>>11279795
Look at the gap by the canopy. It is better than it was before, but it could be better.

I am kind of embarrassed to say it, but the kit came pre-painted. I did pick out some details, however. No weathering, as it is an SAR type and those generally are kept fairly clean from what I have seen.

The kit is by F-Toys, by the way. I was looking at maybe getting some more of their aircraft kits as someone in Leafland is auctioning them on EvilBay at a reasonable starting price.
>>11279793
That is a good point. The best athletes are those who practice the most, the longest. The more time I spend building, the more things that I will learn, by that logic.

I will start my next kit tomorrow, then.
>>
somehow broke the mac valve on my new airbrush :(
I dont know what I did but screwing it in or out changes nothing. I never really used it so its not that big of a deal I guess but maybe I could have
>>
>>11279815
nevermind I guess I somehow managed to screw it out so far it wasnt doing its job, so just pushing it in while screwing made it seat properly and it works again
>>
>>11279736
typically scale models are smaller than the original thing, anon
>>
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You should not drink and mask.
>>
I don't quite see what's the problem with shitkit anon.
He's either an elaborate troll, and that kind of effort in and by itself is kinda commendable, or he's a genuine idiot - and let's not act like we, dwellers on an icelandic fingernail ship building forum, are any better - which means we can treat him as our very own lolcow.
At least he's not being a cunt about it and more importantly, he's actually posting models. Would be worse if he was talking back with an attitude.
>>
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BF-110 is coming along. I'll give the decals some time to cure or dry or whatever they need to do before I throw on another gloss coat, then its getting slathered in oil and shit
It started out pretty rough actually putting the thing together but this kit is actually shaping up pretty nicely
>>
>>11279635
Just cut out the circles, you can do everything else with masking tape and paint
>>
>>11279635
Try the old window trick. It will be cheaper than buying new decals, just take your decals to a window that gets plenty of sunlight, then wait for the sun to bleach the decals.
>>
>>11280300
I had my airfix kit's decals up in the window for a month or so and it didn't seem like it was getting any better.
>>
>>11279611
Nice. I heard these kits have some fitment issues but they're workable. I just watched the 2hr build video on a B1 on it. I'm sure it's easily searchable. Looked super cool. Enjoy.
>>
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I wish I started scale modeling years ago. This is great fun. Thank you >>11277755 for the recommendation.
>>
>>11280302
Hmm, which way did the window face. In my experience an East window is best, since I have a first to the West of me, but, in general, North or South windows are not so great.

Additionally, it could depend on who made the decals. For example, I have found that Scale-Master decals that were usually included in "USAirfix" and Minicraft Hasegawa kits tend to not yellow or when they do, they are really fixed by them in the window.

How old is this Airfix kit?
>>
>>11280319
By the way, a lot of older Japanese kits tend to have low quality decals. At least that is what I have noticed from Otaki, Nichimo and Imai kits, it could be the same with the Arii kit.
>>
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You lied to me! Why are these two tiny things ten different parts?? You told me military kits had tiny parts bc they add details but the dumb ass wheel caps didn't add shit. It's just greeble and tears! The wheels don't even rotate so why do they need caps???
>>
>>11279632
Uh no. You keep spreading these lies about me for some reason but I'm slowing down my builds to one at a time taking peoples advice. You need to take a chill pill and stop getting worked up about someone else's effort. Unless you're spazzing out for shits and giggles, in that case all in good fun. Happy new years anon
>>
>>11279648
Lemonparty.org
>>
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Matte coat and wash left. Face looks horrible lmfao. Need more practice.
>>
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>>11277632
taking a break from dioramas to work on this 1/700 flyhawk hms campbeltown. great detail but rather soft plastic. instructions are ok. really liking the size of these ww2 destroyers. the small aux will maybe be used for the seaplane dock dio.

question: i see people do hull streaks by applying a wash and then streak with a qtip. will this work with a normal citadel acrylic wash or do i need a special "mr hobby hms campbeltwon hull streaking wash for use with qtips" thing?
>>
>>11280468
those acrylic washes are good only for applying the wash normally. if you want to streak or remove it you want thinned oils or enamels, which can be AK interactive autumn eastern front starship sludge wash, or it can just be normal paint.
>>
>>11280307
glad you're enjoying it
i highly recommend you check out a guide on how to assembly, pose and paint figs in that scale before you paint your next batch (going YOLO on your first one is a must because you learn more that way)
>>
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>>11280468
>buy plastic model kit
>look inside
>it's 99% PE
>>
>>11279608
>Lindberg T-80
>Revell typhoon
The ship is maybe acceptable and the Amodel Kamov is probably too hard for you anon.
>>
>>11280464
faces always do. dont forget to scrape your mold lines next time too.
>>
>>11280524
Dont worry, it'll probably be in a far future when I attempt the harder kits after experience. Are the t80 and typhoon difficult too?
>>
>>11280638
No, a submarine is usually the easiest thing after a Zeppelin. The T-80 is probably a simple build, too. Both of these models are just very inaccurate and at best similar in shape only. One can see what it is supposed to be, but don't be surprised when you are disappointed comparing them to real life pictures of these subjects.
>>
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Finished
Dora Wings 1/72 Bf109A
>>
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>>11280763
>>
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>>11280764
With a Special Hobby 109E1 I made earlier
>>
>>11280763
>>11280765
>>11280764
>>11280763
Absolutely exquisite work anon. Isn't it missing an antenna though? Minor detail but would really bring it together
>>
>>11280782
Thanks. The A didn't have an antenna
>>
>>11280786
Huh didn't know that. Guess I need to refresh my early 109 knowledge. Either way beautiful result and smooth finish
>>
>>11279648
>>11280443 as well as goatse.cx
>>
>>11279635
I actually prefer the ivory, yellowed look on my models. Bright white often looks too harsh I think. The off white makes it look more weathered IMO.
>>
>>11280724
Oh okay. Well they might just become alt history abominations then, although it'll be fun to color the typhoon in a yuktabonian theme
>>
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>>11279635
>buy 1980s kit with 1980's decals
>suffer
>>
>>11281351
Yeah, Lindberg. If you took any layman and make them watch a youtube documentary about a particular tank or plane and the next day you ask them to draw a sketch of that vehicle from memory, that is what a Lindberg model looks like.
>>
>>11281680
Wait until I show him what a Plastkart kit looks like...
>>
>>11281690
Well, the late 80s plasticart kits were pretty decent and had reached a good level of detail. Comparable to Heller in the late 70s. Like the Junkers F-13. The guy who designed these kits later went to Revell and designed some of their better kits among them the Fw 200 and Ju 290.
>>
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>>11280339
Assembled! I wonder if I should finish it. Painting looks easy enough. Any tips on weathering for a gunpla baby?
>>
>>11281859
>gunplababby
Don't you guys have weathering markers?
>>
He's fuckin done it again lads

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QMp3EPXH_XE
>>
>>11281898
Don't have them, too fancy. I use dry brushing. Should I just do that and learn to do washes?
>>
>>11281669
my last 80s okaki kit's decals were fine
>>
>>11281911
are you aware that you have to prime and paint the model before drybrushing for it to actually stick well to the model?

I don't want to make this general feel like a cesspool of disgruntled grogs who are hostile to newcomers (even though I find the yakfag extremely annoying), but you have a plethora of tutorials in the OP that you probably should at least skim before asking for more details directly
>>
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went full retard, ruined my paint completely (I dont even know why this happened)
repainting is no big deal, but I dont have any spare decals because those got spilled on and thrown away, and I can't find them again even after digging through my trash
the digits and side markings are fucked but I was thinking maybe I could make some stencils of the insignias? No idea how though

This is is really disappointing because it was looking great and I was almost done with it. This will be the 3rd model in a row I fucked up and didn't finish and I'm starting to get discouraged
>>
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>>11281990
I put on the dark wash, and then managed to completely forget about it until the next day. Then, the acrylic paint had dried completely and I was struggling to get it to rub off with water. I had the bright idea of soaking the thing in warm water, and figured the paint underneath would be fine because its all lacquer paint, and had a heavy clear coat on top of everything including the decals.
Clearly I was wrong...
also the gear legs broke off which is annoying but not the end of the world
>>
>>11281859
this kit will give an army men tank a run for its money
>>
>>11281990
Have you considered buying aftermarket decals?
>>11281995
You are better off gluing the gear legs only after you finish painting
>>
>>11282000
I was thinking about buying aftermarket yes, but I'm a stingy cunt and most of them are $20+ before shipping, which is more than I paid for the kit. I don't even particularly care if they're historically accurate either. Hopefully I can find the decals for the other paint schemes somewhere in my trash. I dont actually know if they're totally ruined, I only spilled water on them but the glue is probably gone.
>>
>>11281990
>This will be the 3rd model in a row I fucked up and didn't finish
just finish them faggot
>>
>>11282002
yeah I should
the first one was a monogram f16 with shitty decals that got ruined when I tried to use micro sol
the second was that ford probe I melted and warped the body on
and the third is this bf 110

its really only the probe that is unsalvageable
>>
>>11281990
>>11281995
just make it into a wreck diorama
>>
>>11282085
>>11281990
slap on some magic bottle grime and put it diagonal in a tree and youve got an award winning diorama with realistic sun bleach weathering
>>
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re-re sprayed the bumpers and managed to not flood the area this time. did the other small bits now all thats left to do really is final detail. Pretty sure I've orange peeled the fuck out of the gloss coat but w/e.
>>
>>11282809
just like a turd, you can polish the orange peel
>>
>>11282810
true, I have a polishing kit but I am not doing it on this fucking thing. I just want it done.
>>
>>11281995
Looks like white wash winter camo. Did you use an acrylic wash? Why do people keep falling for this Spanish scam? Just get some tubes of oil paint, doesn't have to be something fancy. That you can still get off after days if you don't like it.
>>
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Working on a 72 scale Eduard MiG-15 and it gave me the perfect excuse to test the plasticard filling method for gaps. So god damn easy. Please do this instead of big gops of putty literally so much easier
>>
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>>11283064
nice cock, pit
>>
>>11283064
no, I will continue fucking about with putty
>>
Idk what this is but i want it. Some do335 two seater conversion
>>
So I thought I'd go through my project diaries. I did three models in 2022, five models in 2023 and 21 models last year. I think I'm getting into the swing of things.
>>
>>11283367
I envy your amounts of spare time
>>
>>11282836
it was testors fx wash, not vallejo or anything
I think if I just kept picking at with cotton swabs it would have been fine. I have some oil paints I've never really used except for one basic streaking attempt, I'll just do that from now on probably
>>
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>>11283064
>Working on a 72 scale Eduard MiG-15
Just did one, surprisingly poor fit for eduard but came out okay in the wash. Needs plenty of noseweight FYI
>>
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>>11283542
managed to snap the aerial support off as well doh
>>
>>11283064
For me, it's styrene sludge.
>>
>>11283547
>>11283542
Very nice result, that's a good livery. I'm not really sure what mine will look like yet, I don't do a lot of bare metal finishes so might be time for one.

And yeah I was not expecting it to go together poorly but oh well. At least the PE set is absolutely exquisite. Managed to get some fishing lead on the top of the nose and filled the bottom of the nose with steel mixer balls so I hope that will do, otherwise I'll find a way
>>
>>11283113
Do 335 in 1/48 from Revell (ex-Monogram). the kit lets you build either a single seater or the version in your pic. It's a typical Monogram kit, with some interior detail, some figures and the like.Needs some filling and sanding though.
>>
I am building a Revell 1/32 Huey and I am actually surprised that the fit is half decent... I was expecting old-ish ICM levels of bad fit (apparently their new kits are supposed to be decent, but I have yet to see that).

Pictures coming soon.
>>
>Revell
>>
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That t90 is a nightmare to build. Anyways, onward to the red alert 2 grizzly.
>>
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Almost done with filling and sanding. The wing roots STILL needed some love, but I leave the rest like that, incl. the badly rescribed panel lines. I am still learning, so please bear with me.
>>
>>11284141
Yeah, that was my thought exactly, but so far, things have fit well.

I am not going to bother rescribing details, but I might add some minor additions.
>>
Any tips on painting a car body with an airbrush and getting a consistent finish? Or does it even really matter if I'm still putting gloss clear coat on top?
>>
>>11284243
looks alright in the pic, although there's no focus on the wing root
>>
>>11284439
you should aim to achieve a "wet coat", consider adding some more retarder than usual to help the paint level out on its own
car bodies don't really have much detail to begin with so you're free to just drown that shit with paint
>>
>>11281995
Wreck diorama with advancing reds Spring 1943 you're welcome.
>>
>>11284141
New Revell stuff isn't absolute garbage but they don't make it easy to work out if you're buying a 2024 mold or a 1975 mold
>>
>>11284528
praise scalemates
>>
>>11284462
not that anon but I have so much difficulty with dust when trying to paint my shit. Im gonna try and do a few coats of paint then sand it back ever so slightly to knock out all the dust. What grit should I go for?
>>
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Well fuck
>hobby shop stopped importing my favorite disposable €15 airbrushes
>postal services lost the 3 airbrushes I got from aliexpress
>>
>>11284874
why are you buying disposable airbrushes
>>
>>11284936
I am too lazy to clean them
>>
>>11284939
nigga what the fuck it takes like 10 seconds between colours.
>>
>>11284936
Disposable is a misnomer, they are cheap and I'm not mad when a nozzle/needle/trigger breaks, I do clean them
>>
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please tell me these are actually the same colour and it's just a bad placeholder image because ??
>>
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>>11284459
Yeah the camera does what it wants.
Anyway, put something on it to see if it works. Turns out, it doesn't.
So I opened new, straight and narrower line with a razor saw, because wings were attached there anyway. However, that gap is still pretty wide (and I have no idea how to make a finer libe here) and it has pretty rough edges. I already pulled a piece of sanding paper through, and that helped, but it's still pretty deep and ugly. Can that buff out during painting or do I have to do something now?
>>
>>11284846
Start at 400/800 then work your way up to like 10000 and/or polish if you want it really shiny
>>
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I never heard of this company before and scalemates doesn't have much info. Is this a good buy at $8?
>>
>>11285651
seems like they're reboxed Academy kits. Its probably fine and for $8 I couldn't personally care less because thats basically nothing.
>>
>>11285215
Fill it with ca glue, then wipe with a cotton bud dipped in ca debonder. It will leave a line but nicer.
>>
>>11283523
Eh, not really. I've got a really good rhythm down when it comes to 1/72 aircraft
>>
>>11284846
http://italianhorses.net/Tutorials/PerfectPaint/paint.htm
>>
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>>11285876
bookmarked, thanks. While the little blue mazda is finishing I broke out the 1/48 Ta-152 kit I haven't worked on since like 2021. Bought some mission models paints for it back then and only now getting around to trying them out.

The reccomended 20% thinner really isn't enough. I was getting a lot of tip try and inconsistent spraying. The paint went down really smooth in spite of that though. Gonna keep using them with a lot more thinner to see how they do.
>>
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Getting the MiG ready for its metal finish. My plasticard repair job of the gap in the center isn't as perfect as I'd hoped but there's a first time for everything
>>
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I should change my hobby knife blades more often than once a year, last one was all bent up already. Im pretty sure I ordered some but i cant find them anywhere, should get a big value pack or something.
Superglued the armor on its place, I need to build some support structures under it so it keeps its shape, also the snorkel equipment needs some more puttying and additional details.
>>
>>11285908
get OLFA blades, the superioru nippon steeru, they're absolutely the best I've ever used (and they're recommended by the Canadian workshop gorilla, AvE)
the tank's lookin good, building and bashing is always my favorite step
>>
>>11280765
Those antenna attachment points you got on the E1 there, are they some photoetch set or something you could link? I haven't built a special hobby kit so I don't know if they're in the pack but I'm looking for them without luck
>>
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>>11286068
Thanks for the tip on OLFA, I do remember that fucking LEAF mentioning them i had no idea they did hobby knife blades too. Now I just got to find a good deal on that pack of 100 blades.
And yeah, bashing is fun, but then you put on that first coat of Mr. Surfacer and notice all the sloppy workmanship, Still thinking I probably need to make new gun barrels because the ones i put together stay together with only some good will from holy spirit and are a bit bent.
>>
>>11286101
>Kongo Müller
Are you german or how did you come across this?
>>
>>11286453
I just like to browse /k/, thats all.
What a hilarious guy.
>>
>>11286478
>What a hilarious guy.
Not hilarious, just a fighter for freedom and the west in Africa. You know, liberté, fraternité and so on.
>>
>>11286491
Yeah, I agree.
The guy had such a interesting life.
>>
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finished my zhalo. Weathered about the same as the 223, and a little less than little willie
>>
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went pretty hard on the contrast. I kinda like it.

also, fuck this 15min wait and even gayer captcha
>>
last shitpost, but if we're still gonna do an interwar campaign I got this badboy going thru some test printing right now.
>>
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here's the bridge of my T2 Tanker in progress. Trying to make boxman proud with these railings, went through a lot of work to remove the original Revell solid crap but putting them on is fun.
>>
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Good to finally finish one without any major mishaps. Started this one friday night. Went together nicely. The interior is pretty sparse and not a full tub, but I think these were old RC bodies or something? Either way I don't really care since you can barely see inside it anyways
>>
I want the Very Fire deluxe yamato but I don't have the space to display it
Pretty sure the deluxe box is worth it over the advanced one
>>
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Got a new chinky airbrush, stote catalog said 0.2mm nozzle, store clerk wanted to verify but couldn't
I'm happy with the airbrush, zero overspray can make very thin lines and I can finally finish the cheeto I got last year
>>
>>11286656
>yamato
meme ship
>>
>>11286077
You mean the insulators? They are blobs of PVA glue, dabbed on with a toothpick and painted once they dried.
>>
>>11286983
>>11286077
>chad household items kitbasher
vs
>retail-only kits and parts virgin
>>
>>11286983
>>11286992
Ah I didn't open the picture enough to see that, I'm going fucking blind. It looked like a sort of PE bent part to me
>>
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>spent several hours trying and failing to fill in the gaps where the sparrows would be placed in the f-14 only to find out they're present on the real aircraft
>already spent hours painting the insides
FUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUCK
>>
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hopefully the last vintage shitkit in my stash. The included decals are trash and yellow, but I have some leftover decals from an fw190 so I think I'm gonna make it a captured plane for shits and giggles.
after that I've got some more modern releases revell kits to knock out, and then should be smooth sailing with the rest all being japanese made
>>
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Fuck it. Done™ A thoroughly unenjoyable kit marred by errors compounded by my lack of skill. There was a windscreen wiper except I snapped it trying it fit it. Why? Because the fucking post on the part is a circle, but the guide hole is a fucking half circle.

I also have no idea how I never realised until the moment after I finished it that I put the rear axel on upside down so the rear wheels sit up way too high. How did I not notice. It's always fucking something. Really need a good kit as a palette cleanser next.
>>
>>11287773
Nobody will notice from afar.
Although, did you cut the frame behind the cabin by hand or is that flash?
>>
>>11287803
there was a lot of flash on almost every part of the kit. One of the headlights was like a pancake with the amount of flash around it.
>>
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Anyone going to Chattanooga? Hopefully it doesn't snow that weekend
>>
>>11287557
>west bad, japan good
>>
>>11288288
so far, yes that has been my experience
>>
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I got one of these ancient model kits, still unassembled and unpainted. The plastic is the pink/flesh tone.

What colors of paint would you recommend I get to be able to match the colors? I think I need at least pink for muscles and the brain, maybe light orange for the lining, red and blue for blood vessels, yellow for the glands, off white for the teeth and bones, light blue for cartilage? Should I try mixing my own colors? Do you think I need to use primer?
>>
>>11288299
Is this a bot post or are you actually clinically retarded
>>
>>11288288
Yeah, even the best "western" kits are from eastern europe, fact is wypipo can't produce quality model kits anymore.
>>
are the aliexpres mr color paints legit or am i going to get lead poisoning?
Where do you buy them?
I don't love in the US, so amazon is not a n option to get cheaper mr color paints.
Any other brand reccomendations?
>>
>>11288454
>amazon
>aliexpress
have you tried any modelling/hobby sites or shops
>>
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Continuing with my airbrushing adventures. Thought I had a pretty good ratio down (about 60:40 thinner:color with ~10% retarder, all Tamiya brand tamiya products), while spraying the surface looked wet, and so on. Now, apart from my airbrush booth apparently being a dust trap, I still get that grainy texture. Four layers now. From afar it looked good, but upon closer inspection, not so much anymore. It's still 1/72, so the body is a bit less than half an inch wide. But the Fengda compressor that everyone seems to use now arrived, so I can now work with pressures under 20 psi.
Any other advice?
>>
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Postal services recovered the package and arranged an express delivery, but I really wish they didn't
The airbrushes came without trigger springs and the air canal is plugged?
What the fuck
>>
>>11288527
lol get what you pay for nigga
>>
>>11288183
Predictions aren't looking too good, the worst of it is on Friday but we'll see what happens. Show won't be canned since this has happened before to us but turnout might be less however like last time
>>
First time using an airbrush. Did I do good senapi? I feel like I did good, I know painting matte dark colors can be tough and was expecting an abject disaster. I wouldn't be anywhere close to done on this thing without the airbrush, and probably on the verge of suicide if I had to brush it.

Plz no bully on assembly, I just wanted to throw it together and get a feel for the airbrush. And I feel like the fit is kind of shit, 1/72 Hobby Boss U-2C, but I am brand new to scale modeling. Regardless, I love EW, spy, and C3ISRLGBTQIA+ planes and will love this one too
>>
>>11288652
thin your paint more
>>
>>11288676
Like milk right? I'm moving on to seeing how varnishes work with this thing
>>
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>accidentally dropped the hanomag I've been working on and broke the two review mirrors.
>>
>>11288688
ok, hitler
>>
>>11288681
Good news, I fucked it up. Thank God I did the underside first. I assume I need to thin the shit out of gloss varnish? Its almost like honey coming out of the bottle
>>
>>11288802
depends on the varnish
thin it enough that it sprays well
>>
>>11288652
It looks totally fine to me but what do I, a mere idiot, know.
>>
>>11288646
Georgiafag here
They're expecting snow as far out as Kennesaw, if that happens i might have to forget it. Sucks because the next one will be in march.
>>
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Anyone know how hard this is to put together for a pleb? I really don't care about painting.
>>
>>11288299
>>11288413
Dude I've never tried painting anything "flesh" colored and was thinking plain primary colors might look too garish.

I was wondering if you guys have any suggestions to help match the colors on higher priced anatomy models, I don't know what names tamiya or Citadel or whatever have for their different paints.
>>
>>11289189
Don't match colours go full Andy Warhol on it
>>
>>11288681
Keep thinning it and thinning it until the only thing you're covering your model with is thinner
>>
There was an anon a few threads ago who complained about their spray booth not sucking enough fumes through, think I bought the same one but the shitty archive won't load the images.
>>
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Found this in an antique shop, the owner didn't even know he had it
>>
>>11289340
>11282578
Is this a Lindberg or a Huma kit?
>>
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picked these up from my usual old shitkit dealer. I dont expect much trouble from the bottom 2 but I can't wait to be in a world of pain when I try to build those ancient matchbox tanks. especially as someone who has never done a tank before.

>>11289480
scalemates says lindberg. tooling from 1965. what fun.
>>
>>11289485
I have heard that Trumpeter kit is pretty shit too. I could be getting mixed up with the Gannet, however.

I think the Matchbox might be trouble-free out of the box, but do not tell me you spent more than $10 on it...
>>
>>11288802
if you don't thin any varnish, it will spray like a spider web
>>
>>11289485
>$65
hey anon, I got a bridge you wanna buy
>>
>>11289499
I skimmed through one video review of the wyvern and he seemed pretty pleased with it. good enough for me. I've heard the 48th scale one was designed so that you can spin one of the props and the other one will actually counter rotate along with it. no idea if its true but thats badass if so. would be cool if the 72nd scale does too. either contra prop planes are cool as shit so whatever
and yeah I paid $20 for it xdddddd
>>11289513
is it a cool bridge?
>>
>>11289485
>paid $20 for a matchbox shitkit
And it's your first tank kit, why? Gonna be honest here, your dealer is ripping you off with these prices.
>>11289499
I had the Wyvern and it was good.
>>
>>11289521
>is it a cool bridge?
totally awesome, my dude, you're gonna love it
>>
>>11289485
Matchbox is usually well fitting. Clunky and toylike in detail, but the fit is without problems. I built those btw, Revell repops them.
>>
>>11289561
I didnt set out to buy it, but the ft 17 is one of a small handful of tanks I like (basically the only other one is the stug and its variants) and I saw it in the stack of old shitkits the guy has and figured why the hell not.
>>11289748
hell yeah where do I sign
>>11289797
thats good to know. I'm not particularly worried about the end result being hyper realistic or anything. All I care about with every model I make is that it looks cool sitting on my shelf
>>
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Tried getting the spinner belt painted. I realized I suck at masking, and since I don't have any circle stencils, I decided to put it in my trusty shitty hand driller, start that with one hand and just hold a brush to it while it was spinning. First laid a pink basecoat and then covered with the yellow. Looks passable from afar.
>>
>>11289923
Not a bad solution honestly I think it looks good. Probably gives you a cleaner result than masking tape would. It's really fucking hard keeping the masking straight around the spinner even with thin, flexible masking tape
>>
>>11289521
>>11289561
Most have been the Gannet, excuse me, then.
>>
>>11289923
well, now I have a solution for the remaining 6 wheels on my cheeto, thanks anon
>>
>>11289945
If you look closer (irl, not the very shitty picture here lol) you'll notice that the paint is pretty uneven in places, also I missed some very tiny slivers of pink. Tomorrow I will do a one-over with some toothpaste to see if I can even it out a bit.
>>
>>11290029
>I will do a one-over with some toothpaste
?
Like polish it or what?
>>
>>11290031
Yeah kind of like that, mainly because I don't actually have any polish at hand. Just to kind of match the brush painted part to the sprayed one. I don't even if it will work as intended, but this model has already too many small mistakes that add up to a shoddy whole that I can just fuck around a bit. It was supposed to be a "get back into the hobby, but now for real" kit anyway.
>>
>>11280500
got some oilpaints at the artstore closeby and tested them on the small chang aux. the saltstains didn't work out but i'm pretty happy with the results otherwise for a first attempt.
>>
>>11289509
How thin though? Like thinner than what you do for paints?
>>
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>heres your new trumpeter kit bro
Saars its over
>>
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>>11289923
nice. I like the (((tamiya))) flexible tape
>>
>>11290097
Is that special tape? I only have some regular tape here and that worked like ASS.
Also, is that surface supposed to be that grainy?
>>
>>11290098
it's rubbery shit rather than paper, so you can bend it somewhat
and no, I'm retarded and/or this army painter satin is trash
>>
>>11290109
I see. The borders certainly look tidier than mine.
>>
>>11290031
yes, anon, toothpaste is gently abrasive, some toothpastes even come with actually quite large and noticeable grains that should help polish that pearly smile

it's an old trick, from before the tamiya polishing compounds and easy access to similar or same stuff but marketed towards other professions (i dunno, jewelers, watchmakers, carpenters, sculptors, whoever needed to polish a hard or painted surface to high shine)
>>
>>11290056
for mine, yeah, I use the creos/Mr Hobby GX varnishes and I thin them more than most paints and spray them with lower PSI to avoid them drying at the nozzle
I've learned the hard way not to do otherwise
>>
When hand drilling holes how do you keep them uniform and not wonky like this
>>
>>11290195
Use a ruler, use a pin or something to make a central dent the drill can grip, also a lot of care.
>>
>Do a superb brush paint job
>Varnish decides to shit itself and leaves a blotchy mess for no discernable reason
>>
>>11288183
>>11288846
The show has been canned unfortunately due to the weather and will be moved to another date which is still unknown
>>
>>11290195
Get the right size drills and be careful
Also you can thin the sides of the porthole using a standard drill bit by hand
Just put the drill bit behind the porthole and start turning until it thins out
It looks better that way, more scale accurate
>>
>>11290131
Ah, I seeeeeee. I have indeed fucked up my plane then. I'm using AK gloss acrylic varnish. I applied one of the decal sets to see if maybe I'm blowing it out of proportion but there's no hiding it. Guess I'll strip it and try again. I'll post pics tomorrow if anons want to laugh at me
>>
>>11290281
iktfb
>>
>>11290195
>1. get a scriber or a thick needle, a pointy knife will do
>2. get a flexible ruler
>3. use the ruler and the point to make indents where the holes will be
>4. get a drill about half diameter of the target hole
>5. drill the thinner "leading hole"
>6. get the target diameter drill
>7. ??????????
>8. profit
>>
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trying out black basing on this (old) airfix hurricane. it looks pretty cool like this. I didn't think about it until after I had already covered the whole thing, but if I'm planning on painting the underside yellow, should I go back over it with grey? or even go pick up some mr surfacer in white or pink?
I'm making it a captured german plane
>>
>>11290797
yellow on black will look like literal shit even after 3 coats, you should make a pass with one of the colors mentioned but they don't have to be primers

pink priming will give you the most vibrant yellow, white and grey will look less saturated
>>
>>11290797
Yellow always requires a white base or it looks like shit.
>really always?
Yes, always.
>>
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>>11291018
Ehhhhh... Not really. You can have severe coverage problems on white with yellow too (been there done that) personally I spray a sand camouflage color first and then yellow on top and that does the trick smoothly every time because the sand/tan/beige whatever colour tends to have decent coverage properties and doesn't disturb the yellow going on top
>>
>>11291194
and your lemon peel is rather dull and muted, when on white it would've been more vibrant
>>
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Finally got this piece of shit masked.
Originally I wanted to paint the flaps separately and then add them to the wings, like I did with the airbrakes, but thought "eh it can't be that bad". Yeah, fuck this shit.
>>
>>11291290
well, that's one way to do a yellow underside
>>
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this is now a yellow thread.
peachy basecoat, couple coats of yellow, but still kinda uneven. It's whatever, really looking forward to getting the blue on the fuselage
>>
>>11290343
I'm seeing scattered Facebook posts say the same thing. Did the Tennessee chapter put out an official statement anywhere?
>>
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Hey when I use decal softener there's this layer around the paint that makes it look very non shiny and it's pretty obvious if you look at the areas around the decals. How do I prevent this?
>>
>>11291572
decal softener is basically diluted IPA so I guess it ate at your varnish
have you, perchance, coated this in something like
>vallejo water based gloss
before decals?
>>
>>11291194
>>11291203
That's interesting, I am going to try that. But you will agree that black or grey will not give you a good yellow coverage?
>dull and muted
Yeah, but you may want it that way.
>>
>>11291797
here's how it works: you have your yellow paint in its yellow shade and yellow saturation
you spray that on white and get what's advertised, on grey it will look less saturated and you might need two coats
you spray that on black and you won't believe that's yellow you're using, it's hard to describe how shit it will look
and for some arcane reason if you spray it on pink it will come out more vibrant than on white, plus the pink will make it easier to see and fix uneven coverage
>>
>>11291572
Spray another clearcoat on it and it will be fine
>>
>>11291203
The color is accurate to the real car. How about you learn a little about the subject rather than just spam orange peel on every imperfect paintjob posted?

>>11291797
Black will never work, I've suffered a lot trying to cover black areas with yellow even on something as small as prop tips. Grey I really don't know I haven't tried.
>>
>>11291808
I have so far only ever used yellow with a white base to be safe. But I will try the sand base on my next Luftwaffe build.
>>
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>>11291901
>mimimimimi the color is accurate
the spectrometer says otherwise, peeler-kum
>>
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>>11291963
spectrometer deez nuts, sweaty
>>
>>11292033
That's just regular iraqi camo
>>
is it ok to use lighter fluid to clean up panel lines on a painted kit? I don't want to ruin my nice paintjob
>>
>>11292202
oops posted to wrong general, this and the gunpla general were next to each other in my thread watcher
>>
>>11292204
I mean did you use an enamel based wash? If you have literally nothing except lighter fluid then it'd probably work if your paint is protected with varnish but I'd stil be careful.
>>
>>11292214
Used mr super clear topcoat over the paint and tamiya panel liner over that. I have given the topcoat a little under 24h to cure as of the present moment.
>>
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>>11292033
>posts 3rd world camo that doesn't follow or meet any standards as proof of "color accuracy"
LMAO
>>
>>11292220
find a hard to see spot and try it out with a detailing brush or a cotton swab (formed into a fine point) dumped in lighter fluid
>>
>tfw a piece of tape just slightly lifted during spraying, thus allowing the darker top color underneath and ruining the border at that spot
Should I commit sudoku?
>>
>>11291572
why didn't you finish painting it
>>
>>11292381
Carefully sand off the overspray with high-grit sandpaper
>>
>>11292381
>Should I commit sudoku?
Yes. I'll be your second, but all I have is a hobby knife
>>
>>11292381
do this >>11292424 but very gently with the tip of the sharpest scalpel you got
at uni we'd scrape off ink like that when we fucked up, admittedly on paper, but the principle is the same
>>
>>11292531
must be an OLFA or his honor will be forever blemished
>>
Anyone ever just try, not painting? Painting is for faggots.
>>
>>11292605
im not a snaptranny like those fags on the gundumb threads
>>
>>11291808
>>11291901

I'm the anon that brought the pink trick over, I learned it from an italian figure painter. The reason pink works is that you're not just wrestling with the shade and saturation of the yellow paint, but also its opacity. Opacity of yellow will vary widely, and pink acts as a neutral interference layer. This lets it work as an ameliorative no matter what yellow you're using and give more consistent results. White may work some or most of the time, but if you're fighting through opacity then it will make your yellow pale as it peeks through. Pink will of course also peek through, it will just be much less noticeable and easier to correct with an additional coat.

Grey will act as a neutral interference layer for a lot of other colours: blues*, greens, drabs, etc. that usually have good inherent opacity. Pink is the same sort of thing but for red, yellow, orange, purple where opacity can often be an issue.

*Dark Navy blue pigments may have poor opacity so should be undercoated black.

Most blacks are actually really dark blue, so yellow on black tends towards green.

In any case, choosing your undercoat is just picking what makes your life easier in fewer steps as a pre-corrective for unruly pigments.
>>
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>tfw forgot to prime the epoxy filler I sanded down and only noticed after two coats
>>
>>11291760
oof I did not. I don't have any coats in particular just paint. Man this hobby is getting expensive, there's more things to buy

>>11291824
Do I just get any clear coat

>>11292387
I did, the decal softener kind of ate through the paint for some reason
>>
>>11291572
why do you care about decal softener when you're painting with what appears to be crayola markers?
>>
>>11292796
you put a solvent over bare acrylic paint didnt you anon...
>>
>>11290045
Comfy
>>
>>11292796
this hobby is not expensive at all
>>
>>11293034
it can be if you start being a gearfag and buy every little tool or knicknack you see for sale
>>
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Okay these OLFA blades are pretty great and totally worth it as was mentioned earlier in the thread i never thought quality mattered on hobby blade knifes but I stand corrected, I already managed to draw blood for the blood god with the chisel one. Its a good thing i also took those other types of blades I imagine chisel and saw blade will come really handy.
The base of the blades is 6mm but my chinesium handle was something like 5,8mm so i had to do some drilling and burring to make these fit, I´ll probably invest later into OLFA handle too.
>>
>>11293036
tbf, you won't get very far with an airfix starter kit and a hardware store hobby knife
>>
>>11292881
Yes..

>>11292857
It's normal vallejo paint
>>
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>>11293105
I used to make these sort of packages for friends that wanted to get into the hobby but not have the shit starter set experience so I tried to do it now for a 1/48 scale Spitfire. It used to be about 20-25% cheaper but then again so did everything else. On the other hand £65 to get a good start in any hobby is not really a high price in my opinion.

Also before anyone asks why the fuck I picked Italeri, it's actually pretty solid acrylic paint. Some shades are complete horseshit (I will reply to this post with the Panzer Yellow I have). The advantage in this case is that it's very large bottles that last long, it thins well even down to airbrush use, and it's not going to require learning too much more than "thin with water" for a noob over say learning about levelling thinners for Mr Hobby or Tamiya or whatever.
>>
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>>11293118
Here's your panzer yellow bro enjoy (but this is the only shade I've had that's truly atrocious)
>>
>>11293122
It might help if you shake it properly
>>
>>11293118
Based super-hobby enjoyer
>>
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>>11293143
NTA but I ordered my blades from there, first time using that site, stuff arrived in 3 days and didnt cost shit.
Definitely gonna use that for stuff I cant find in hobby stores in my country.
>>
>>11293116
learn to brushpaint then
>>
>>11293036
hoo buddy if you think a pair of tweezers or a magnifying work light is expensive...
>>
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>>11293140
Why yes I brought out the worst example because I didn't shake it properly. No retard, it's just a green paint. I paint the top of all my brush paints with the actual contents of it when I receive them (after proper stirring and shaking) so I know what it looks like dry. Does this look panzer yellow to you? You may be colour blind

>>11293143
Super-Hobby is the best online shop and it's not even funny how bad the others are. Everything is just so perfectly organized and linked together, it's the golden standard for any kind of hobby shop. Every other fucking place you can't just "browse" it you have to say no i want to only look at 1/72 scale ICM models of tanks fuck you. Or you get to one of those shops where there's 80 pages of models and no sorting at all.
>>
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>>11292612
i ain't reading all that
i'm happy for u tho
or sorry that happened

I also learned about the pink from /tg/WIP/
>sorry, goodnight
>>
Super hobby is based just for letting you see price history and availability data.
>>
>>11293122
who cares, it's just rebottled Vallejo
>>
>>11293156
>Or you get to one of those shops where there's 80 pages of models and no sorting at all.
oh yeah, there are still BILL'S ONLINE HOBBY EMPORIUM (formerly Bob's) written in php where the listings are in order of how BILL added them to the page and most have errors in titles/pictures/descriptions because he just copypastes the same block of code over and over and forgets to edit each field

it's funny when scalemates scrapes those sites and sends you on a wild goose chase after a niche kit
>>
>>11293188
It may be but it's much cheaper per ml. Anyway the point was that Italeri brand paint is not a bad recommendation for a cheap brand for a noob.
>>
Recommendations of where makes the best M4 sherman, M3 lee, or stug 3 kits? In 1/35 (or 1/72 if it's particularly good)
>>
I picked up some vallejo model air steel the other day to brush paint with and man this shit is actually a gorgeous bright silver. Way better than brush painting the VMC which are just way too thin and destroy your brush in 3 seconds.

>>11293068
That saw looks nice, are you using it to rescribe panel lines?
>>
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>>11293471
NTA, but the Olfa saw isn't good for panel line rescribing. It's cuts are too wide. Picture shows JLC saw vs Olfa saw cut width
>>
>>11293498
godamn
>>
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I started painting models ~2 weeks ago. Pic related, a little ship from Tamiya. Sadly after 30 minutes my eyesight gets fucked and I feel like forcing too much my sight into the pieces. I think it's my lighting, since at daytime doesn't happens that much. Can you recommend me a proper light and intensity? This thing got me hooked, I'm having fun for first time since long time ago, pls help.
>>
>>11293508
I use this ikea lamp and a 6500k daylight bulb. You can probably get much better and wider shop lamps but for cheap it does the job. Get two of them for more uniform light.

https://www.ikea.com/gb/en/p/tertial-work-lamp-dark-grey-40450802/
>>
>>11293498
OLFA saw is for demolition work, for rescribing you want a scriber or a "czech razor"
>>
>>11293508
are you working at night with small lamp only? because that shit is very strainful for the eyes
>>
>>11293518
Yes, somewhat. Got the regular room light on too, but doesn't do much. I don't know shit about lighting or lamps and sadly I'm not that young (I feel it in my eyes lol).
>>11293512
Thanks
>>
>>11293508
https://www.amazon.co.uk/s?k=nail+arch+light&crid=2BY1XW72V26EJ&sprefix=nail+ach+light%2Caps%2C97&ref=nb_sb_ss_sc_1_15

Nail arch lights are the newest hot shit for miniature painters I've thought of getting one they seem ideal
>>
>>11293512
Sorry can you post the bulb you use?
>>
>>11293316
1/48 tamiya is gud
>>
>>11293571
I cant find the specific one but it's a philips E27 socket 6500k daylight bulb. Honestly any chineseium LED bulb will work fine. Just as long as it's over 4000k.
>>
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>>11293224
I found scalemates barely has anything in the UK these days. eModels has been removed/taken themselves off for some reason. So I have to just search the name & product code to find sites like how >>11293224 describes. At least they have the shit in stock and vastly cheaper than everywhere else.
>>
super hobby is good but it's all coming from poland
>>
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wonder what tamiyas reasoning was with this kit, it seems to have warmed shelves and not many people care for it while the new 911 gt3 seems to be tamiyas hottest car kit in a very long time
There was just so many better options than this generic looking super car
>>
>>11293742
they should make old cars. new = soulless
>>
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workbench camo applied
>>
I definitely did it all wrong but I'm not sure I like this whole black basing thing. I think I'll just stick to pre shading panel lines instead
>>
>>11293508
>1/1700 destroyer made in 1972

how horrifying
>>
>>11293742
>mclaren f1 but soulless
yeah i can't imagine why
>>
>>11294235
>soulless car but soulless
>>
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>>11293742
I just wish they'd do some decent modern WRC cars. The current cars are fast as tits and have liveries that'd be interesting to paint yet noone releases anything except the usual poopoo peepee die cast companies
>>
>>11294261
>that design
do carfags really?
>>
>>11294261
https://www.belkits.be/en/products/kits/

This company has some newish rally cars but I'm pretty sure they're hard to get and expensive outside europe
>>
>>11294376
They unfortunately haven't done any of the post 22 rule change cars yet I've been keeping an eye out
>>
>>11294362
that's just redbull, the fucking faze clan of extreme sports

>the company so dumb that they lost a lawsuit for their slogan
>ever since the slogan MUST say "wiiiings" and not "wings" because the drink doesn't literally give you wings
>yes, they had to cough up cash for the plaintiff, 'murica fuck yeah
>>
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Done with masking this bitch. That splinter camo is kinda sexy.
Also note the misprint in the manual; that blue is actually the lighter green.
>>
>>11294406
>plastered in nonsense logos and retarded colours
the entire design looks like a child made it
>>
>>11294406
modern cars are extremely ugly
>>
>>11281680
>>11281690
A lot of of Lindberg's offerings date from the era of "Box Scale", and when those kits were sold on the toy aisle of a supermarket.
Then you had the "gizmos" where you had things like motor driven prop, and "pulling the tailhook extends the landing gear" that cost a bit more but were still very toy like.
If you can get them cheap, and the subject interests you they can be made into something decent, but you will put work into it.
If you've dealt with any of the Williams Brothers airplane kits, a Lindberg is easy.
>>
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>>11294362
>>11294406
>>11294442
>>11294448
WRC is hanging on by a thread due to lack of viewership and manufacturer interest so the liveries are either manufacturer colors or the odd entrant sponsored by the driver himself just buying a ride and those are even more atrocious. The cool tobacco liveries are long gone.
>>
Who makes a beginner friendly mig29?
>>
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I'm pretty sure I didn't fuck up the wheel wells because wow that fucking gap. And the view into the fuselage too good thing this is underneath and you won't see it.
>>
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>>11294543
Zvezda if you want a good modern kit that fits
>>
>>11294560
thanks, yours look sick.
>>
>>11294556
You are supposed to be able to see into the engine area through the wheelwells on a 190
>>
>>11294572
oh okay then. I left the engine unpainted because I figured you wouldn't see it but I put a coat of black in there.
>>
>>11294560
I've built this, it's a pretty good kit.

The only weak spot was the wing ends.
>>
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hope this bottle of sprue goo can fill these wing gaps ok. I really need something better. I may lose panel line detail but if I can get a smooth join i'll be happy.
>>
>>11294760
you can always rescribe the lines
>>
>>11294782
with my current ability? I can't even deepen panel lines already there with my scribing tool without it skipping out of the groove and gouging a line in the plastic.
>>
>>11294786
You won't get better by not trying
>>
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>>11294787
>>
>>11294786
I haven't quite figured it out yet either but what works the best so far is just going slow and making lots of repeated passes.
I want to get some of that hard label maker tape, that apparently makes it way easier. Only thing is idk how reusable it is and that shits like $25 a roll
>>
>>11294841
I saw some boomer tutorial on that matter and what was recommended among other things was the label tape used in those, uhh, "imprinting" labellers? You know, black tape with white letters. No idea what's it called.
>>
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This is silvering right? I knew I shouldn't have put the decals on with how shit of a gloss job I did, was wondering if maybe I was blowing it out of proportion. My only option is to strip the entire thing and redo it right?
>>
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pretty much done. overrall not too bad of a kit for its age. biggest gripe is the landing gear. its poorly designed and as a result very flimsy. the kit's decals are yellowed and I didn't feel like it was worth shelling out for an aftermarket set. I used some from a previous fw190 I did. despite being older those decals are somehow in much better shape(thanks japan). I did try and use some of the kit decals anyways but they absolutely would not stick no matter what so I just gave up.
I'm still trying to wrap my head around weathering and how to do it properly. also the black basing thing sucks and I'd rather just preshade the lines from here on out.
>>
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>>11294951
I lost the little wing light covers so I'll put those one if I ever find them. also I guess I forgot to paint the part of the fuselage covered by the canopy but oh well
>>
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the yellow belly turned out nice. I tried to keep the black base when putting down the grey and it still kinda sorta shows through
>>
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5fhoW9vTPJY

this really wants to make me build a ship. Why the fuck is everything waterline?
>>
>>11294951
German capture spitfire? It looks good dang
>>
>>11295074
They're not, most if not all of trumpeters kits are full hull and Fujimi make full hull 1/700 kits for the nips. Basically all 1/350 ships are full hull
>>
>>11295244
>spitfire
hurricane nigger
>>
>>11295074
there's nothing wrong with waterline
>>
>>11295074
are you interested in a particular type of ship?

flyhawk makes great 1/700 full hull kits with recent tooling, mostly british (especially destroyers) and german ww2 stuff from what i've seen. finding japanese ships should be easy enough too but there isn't all that much italian stuff floating around in general.
>>
>>11295329
rude to call the main RAF workhorse and the plane that won the Battle For Britain a "nigger"
>>
>>11295331
>boxman is now approaching your location
>>
>>11295329
you rang? >>11290797
>>
>>11295390
I didn't
>>
>>11295329
>spitfire
>hurricane
SIE ALLE SEHEN GLEICH
>>
>>11294904
You can try to slice the decal and let mark setter run in between and hope it will remove the air. At elast at the bigger spots.
>>
>>11295505
this nigga spittin fire, this is how you save silvered decals, even the small ones
>>
Does anyone own/ have built a M1A1 /A2 Abrams kit with the power pack engine? I'm looking for a picture of the rear profile of the power pack and I can't find any online and I need a reference for a kitbash any help would be appreciated.
>>
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how would you guys do this
>>
>>11295372
honestly the littorio looks like a fun starting point. I just want something interesting, not too 'spend 6 months doing PE railings and not:
>just build the hood/yamato/bismarck
>>
>>11295854
preshading and one (1) grey coat
>>
>>11295854
Airbrush metallic, brushpaint the putty
>>
>>11295854
probably spray the whole metal part of the plane (ie from the 1/3 down the fuselage and back) with a decent metal color and paint the seamlines by paintbrush since they look super wonky anyway with a different metal color, probably burnt metal. The nose section is glass fiber or something if I'm not mistaken so paint that as such
>>
>>11288489
Knock it down with some polishing pads. (6000-8000-12000 grit only, anything more and you'll be sanding through the paint layer)

Honestly that's probably fine for 1/72, primer's not ever going to go on completely smooth and unless you are really careful about cleaning for dust you're going to get a little bit on the surface.
>>
>>11295857
>>11295868
>>11295869
thanks lads. this is one ugly piece of shit plane, but I have to keep the stash moving
>>
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>Border releasing a Tesla tank
>Tesla turret on a bog standard real-life BMP-T hull
Fucking gay, this series fell off after like three kits, even their ""fixed"" Apoc will still be undersized like the first edition. At least the upcoming Tesla Trooper might be fun.
>>
>>11295074
Any other amateur scale model Youtubers like boxman? Every other is either a middle aged dullard or a turboautist like Plasmo with his own custom-made lathe
>>
>>11296378
Border model has always been slop.
>>
>>11296419
I like jun's mini garage but lately hes been only doing pre painted initial d slop cars
scale-a-ton is pretty good but might be kind of boring

a4 garage is hyper autism 1:1 realism but entertaining nonetheless
>>
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>>11296378
>undersized

Have you seen how small the tanks in red alert 2 are?
>>
>>11296522
Undersized compared to their own Grizzly tank, the latter being 30% bigger
>>
>>11296522
>have you seen how HUEG the infantry in RA2 are???
>>
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>>11296378
It would make more sense universe-wise IMO if it were on a T-55 or T-10 chassis.
>>
>>11296668
chat, is this real?
>>
>>11296419
Model Minutes is a middle aged british dullard who builds non stop garbage vintage airfix kits. But at least he builds em. That's more than I can say.
>>
>>11296694
yeah, iirc those are 2 old jet engines that have been attached in order to start controlled fires for firefighting
>>
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>>11296378
It's literally modelled after this image, very lazy design
>>
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>>11296700
They were built to blow out the oil well fires in Kuwait.
>>
>>11296419
Quick Kits is a dead channel (he has a real job now and isn't a kid anymore) but his builds are very nice for what he's trying to do

>>11296699
I like model minutes, makes me feel like a much better model maker than I deserve. He pumps out so many kits but rarely are they really high effort. At least he's fully self aware
>>
>>11296699
>non stop garbage vintage airfix kits
not really
>>
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i11p2sqT_Z8&
Academy and tamiya bros, we got too cocky
>>
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>>11296718
>we're going to charge around the same price as the academy and tamiya kit while being worse in almost every manner
>no pre cut masking tape or large decal sheets either
DOA
>>
>>11296717
ok they're not all airfix but he does build a significant amount of ancient tool 1/72.
>>
>>11296378
not even fucking trying lmao
>>
>>11295372
Pretty sure you can only get Italian ships from Trumpeter and they do full hull kits
>>
>>11296419
I found this japanese guy who pumps out car kits like no tomorrow

https://www.youtube.com/@t-garage/videos
>>
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I had forgotten where i stored my spare parts but i finally got lucky, it was the Koto Metal Gear Rex kit box!
There were some good detailed turret parts from Trumpeters T-64 kit that i can use on my Heavy Tank, especially commander and gunner hatches.
>>
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Result of the first attempt at that plasticard and superglue gap filler - well I'm not satisfied but I'm not gonna fix it. The plasticard definitely works but I'm not convinced on the super glue. At least not my cheap ass Polish super glue. Had to edit the pic a little to make it as obvious as possible but the dents are all the way along the seam unfortunately, I prefer the epoxy putty method so far.
>>
>>11296799
VMS Flexy 5K CA black thin works great as filler for me
>>
>>11296753
there is a resin full hull conte di cavour from triumph model. i have a flower class from them. the deck is cast super nice but the fit between lower and upper hull is a nightmare. there is also some waterline resin stuff from niko and a navigatori from an obscure chinese brand if memory serves me right but that is all i ever found.

speaking of niko, has anyone experience with them? i have a thing for obscure ships and they have a lot of them
>>
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>>11296799
Quite tired of this MiG. Canopy doesn't fit together (and glaringly so) so I'm leaving it cracked open as if to ventilate in a hot hangar. Landing gear didn't fit very well in the nose, fell off, broke on re-gluing and now trying to fix it. This is like a Mistercraft kit in an Eduard box, quite disappointed really. The PE set is the one redeeming quality but I bet it would have been nicer in another kit. Is there a better 1/72 scale MiG-15 out there? Don't care about variants but I'd like to build one that isn't quite so shit in the future
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>more spitfires
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well it looks like shit and I lost a bunch of panel lines. I'm not going to try and fix it because I'll be here for days and will just make it worse. I just wanna paint this thing.
>>
>>11297072
I was just thinking about this at work earlier today when listening to Drach´s British Pacific Fleet series. I havent built a Spitfire in 25 years and was thinking maybe I should, maybe something like Seafire or after war variants.
>>
>2025 Airfix Range launch
>Re-introduces all the 1:144 rockets and adds Artemis/SLS
>New 1/48 scale SEPECAT Jaguar that looks nice
>fuck you that's enough news have a new decal set for your spitfire
>>
>>11297102
>1:48 jaguar
oh that's actually nice. I was looking at scalemates not too long ago and was sad there wasn't a good modern-ish jaguar available.
>>
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>>11297109
https://uk.airfix.com/products/sepecat-jaguar-gr1gr1a-a11010
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>>11296718
>revell shill
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>>11294482
Lindberg also made kits in more recent time like their 1/72 Japanese submarine. And they're awful. There is deliberately little effort put into their kits with regards to the basic shape of the object in question. That is not a sign of the time but it is a red line that goes through all of Lindberg's products. So, no, i don't think you can make something decent from most Lindberg kits. You can make somehting decent from an old Frog kit or even a Matchbox. But a Lindberg is only good for putting a firecracker in it or setting it on fire.
>>
>>11297102
for me it's the gannet re-releases they and revell have announced. also wessex is pretty soulful
>>
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>>11279635
Maybe a good opportunity to experiment with masking? I masked a perfect 1:48 Hinomaru one time using an envelope seal from a box of Christmas cards.
>>
>>11297055
pepiczki made a bad kit? strange, I've built their BF109 in /48 and FW190 in /72 and they were both excellent
perhaps they just loathe russki so much they don't pay any attention to the quality (and shit quality is par for the course for russian aviation, how fitting)
>>
>>11297223
>next up, she ends up on /ctg/
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>>11296718
I've seen the canopy of that thing put together, the glass might not fit perfectly on the frame.
>>
>>11296760
I've been watching this guy on how to proceed with my Hasegawa Mini, still on the 1st page.
>>
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First time using these tamiya cans for anything besides clear coat. Seems almost like cheating, its certainly a lot more consistent of a finish than if I had airbrushed it. Theres some dust and hairs that landed on the roof which is annoying. I'm not sure how to deal with that
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>>11297607
What's the name of that thing that holds your model and (I guess) you can spin it around? Seen lots of times but don't know how's it's called.
>>
>>11297641
https://www.tamiya.com/english/products/74522/index.html
>>
>>11296700
How in the flying fuck would one start fires with A GIANT FUCKING FAN???
>>
>>11296752
Looks like a M42 Duster hull. That said, I wonder if a kitbash of >>11296378 with the Tamiya Duster is possible.
>>
>>11297607
sand it lightly with high grit before the clearcoat or sand it back then spray again
>>
>>11298092
>he has never seen a heat gun
Hey buddy, ever heard of this thing called "hair dryer"?
>>
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>>11298172
>his hairdryer blasts so hot his hair spontaneously combust
shiggydiggy also palpie's hairdryer
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>>11297651
Thanks for the answer, looks useful.
>>
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>>11298240
Unless you're painting cars the cheap flat turntables make more sense.
>>
I think I will buy another kit after I finish my 1/32. I have a $300, but I will probably just get one kit... Mind if you guys help in picking?

>Airfix V Bomber of some sort, Nimord or TSR.2 in 1/72
>Some Aeroflot airliner in 1/144, probably Zvezda, but I would be willing to build a later Eastern Express or Amodel kit (e.g Yak-42, An-22)
>A small 1/144 kit, maybe a Brengun, Eduard, Sweet, Minicraft/Crown, CafeReo or F-Toys
>Mark I Models blimp or zeppelin of some sort
I am fine with something somewhat shitty, but not a total piece of trash, like an Eastern European kit from the 1990s. Never want to do that again.
>>
>>11298172
Go outside and light some moist leaves on fire with your hair dryer, I'll wait. Fucking muppet.
>>
>>11298379
hydrofloat or zeppelin, because obscure topics
treat yourself to all the tools you might be missing or think might be nice - olfa scriber and scalpels, creos pin punch, photoetch bending aid, photoetch rolling pin, set of precise diamond files, set of sanding sponges, etc
no kit is a sit kit when you have the proper tools to deal with it
>>
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really pleased with how my freehand lines came out. Going to do the green tomorrow.
>>
>>11298467
thin your paint
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>>11298470
it was thinned the reccomended amount, all that overspray was from when I did the fuselage bits.
>>
>>11298474
niggerman, I can lay down thinner and more even layers with crusty ass fingerpaints and a steel brush
>>
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>>11298490
ok
>>
>>11298490
sure you do
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>>11298467
You do need to thin your paint though. Stop going with "recommended amounts" and start spraying at different viscosities and pressures on some test cardboard to get a feel for it. You have a shitload of overspray which will make it very hard to do a neat fade between the brownish color and the green you'll put next.

>>11298260
Both the turntable and the car body spring are included in the Tamiya box though and nice to have even if you don't do the cars super often. I like mine. Use it as a drying rack too since it has a very small surface area.
>>
>>11298510
well i'll try that then. That's actually helpful instead of being called a nigger.
>>
>>11298514
It can be primarily caused by too much pressure so you have a rim of paint particles that are already dried up when they hit the surface. Too much pressure is usually chosen because the paint isn't thin enough to flow otherwise (been there done that many a time and it's why I got orange peel on many older projects). If you are using some brands of paint, retarder is almost required to avoid this but I gotta admit I forgot which
>>
>>11298517
I'm using mission models paint. they say 10% thinner but using a lot will fuck up the paint. I think that's because the thinner has butoxyethanol in it?

I'm using a .2 needle sprayed at 10-15psi with the prong protector removed. Was getting quite a bit of tip dry with the low pressure and was working quite close in. Again a lot of that overspray on the wings was from me blasting paint at the fueselage from the side and accidentally getting it on the wing. I'll still try adding more thinner though.
>>
>>11298523
That does sound like it may need a drop of retarder to get that really nice and smooth spraying fan, guess you can always use this project to figure out if you wanna get a bottle of that stuff and experiment with if you can't find a balance that gets it smoother
>>
>>11298539
I do have some vallejo flow improver can always try adding a few drops.
>>
>>11298445
>No kit is a shit kit
You would be correct, of not for the existence of the Starfix "1/48" fighters... You would need a sandblaster and a Sawzall to fix most of the issues with them.

That said, Zeppelin it is.
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Don't think I'm gonna do much more than some light panel liner and then call it a day. Shit kit. Don't buy Eduards 1/72 MiG-15 unless you like pain.

It's not that the result is complete shit or something but this hasn't been an enjoyable experience so if you like the process and not the result boy have you got to like the process
>>
>>11298643
how old is it? I thought eduard kits were supposed to be pretty good.
>>
>>11298467
There's masking for that camo, right? Right??
>>
>>11298736
no i'm just eyeballing it vov
>>
>>11298523
10% thinner? What in the soupy fucking paints?? Nigger I think mine like at least 1:1 with thin ones like Tamiya and 2:1 or more with AK acrylics. You're spraying straight acrylic cum on that model, no wonder it looks like someone sharted on it.
And don't worry snowflakey, My first airbrushing attempt looked about as bad and I also got shit on here, then I went back and fixed it.
>>
>>11298523
Holy fuck I only now read the second part. 15 psi with 10% thinner?
Crank that bitch up to 2-3 bar like a normal person and try again.
>>
>>11298742
>>11298745
thats what they say. if i'm retarded for following it then so be it.
>>
ok you badgered me enough I wasn't planning to paint again tonight but I went back and yeah the brown definitely needed a smoother coat. I mixed up some 60% thinner paint and it went on smoother. Tried blending the green in as well and it looks ok. Gonna wait for it to fully dry before I post a pic tomorrow. Thanks for calling me out.
>>
I still need to figure out how to mix paints too. Before I got this fancy jap airbrush I would just block the nozzle and back feed it to mix the paint which almost always just ended up clogging it. Now, I still mix the paint in the cup but I at least use a toothpick and stir it instead. It seems like I either dont thin it enough and it comes out globby, or I thin it too much and it just spiderwebs even at low pressure

Maybe I'll figure it out eventually. Its not like I've painted like 8 models this way and haven't really improved or anything
>>
>>11299380
Other airbrush beginner anon here.
I personally use a piece of sprue I made into my dedicated stirring stick. It's wider and doesn't have a thin point, so it can move that shit around better. When it's done or breaks or anything I just take another one.
Since so far I have not been spraying a lot of stuff, I manged to get by with counting drops. I put the stick in the color and let it drip into the cup, e.g. 10 drops color/15 drops thinner (I found a 1:1.5 ratio seems to work for me). Of course that's under the assumption that all droplets are more-less the same volume and neglecting any differences due to viscosity. At the very least it provides a consistent ratio.
Then I stir it until there are no streaks anymore, and then I stir it some more.

I hate how wasteful that process is because I am losing a lot of paint from the stick and the residues in the cup, but oh well, maybe someone has some advice on how to improve that.
>>
>>11299385
the waste is a big reason why I continue to mix in the airbrush cup instead of in an actual cup or otherwise. I guarantee what you can't scrape out of a seperate mixing container adds up to a non negligible amount. I even try to squeeze out as much as I can from the pipettes I use too.
>>
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>>11298813
glad that my spurious callout actually helped, warms my cold, dead heart that there are still some niggas willing to take harsh advice
>>
>>11299390
>>11299385
invest in the jar-fed airbrush and get an array of jars so you don't have to clean the same cup over and over between the colors
>>
>>11299394
I doubt it was you calling him a nigger
>>
>>11299380
I always block the nozzle and bubble it to mix it. Hasn't done shit to it yet. Same for my H&S Infinity. It's just easier than mixing it separately ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
My big breakthrough was when I exchanged my piece of chinesium shit compressor for a proper one with a tank. Set the PSI to 2-3 and no shit 95% of my blockages disappeared. Before that I had to thin my paints like 4:1 or 5:1 thinner to paint, now depending on the paint it's 1:1 to 2:1.
>>
>>11299398
Siphon fed airbrushes for models? OK BILL
>>
>>11299418
I was the one to call him "niggerman"
I also have information that will lead to the arrest of Hillary Clinton
>>
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>>11299426
are you only pretending?
>>
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>>11299495
>>11299418
>>
cool went to paint my ta-152 and tried to do the tiniest bit of wet sanding with a polishing sanding stick because the surface was pretty grainy. The paint literally just rubbed off with my finger. Why did I buy this dogshit paint 3 years ago?
>>
>>11299571
What paint? I had a similar experience with Tamiya X11 Silver a while ago.
>>
>>11299571
Why are you sanding your paint layer in the first place?
>>
he fell for the no primer meme
>>
>>11299592
mission models. I think I remember trying to search for 'good' RLM colours because tamiya don't really do them. I guess I found some anecdotes that they were pretty good so picked them up.

I think it's this bottle of poly additive that's fucking everything up. I'm doing the freehand camo right now (badly) and I'm getting a lot less tip dry and a smoother coat when not putting it in.
>>
>>11299571
Sounds like you forgot to wash your sprues in soapy water, Bill.
>>
>>11299607
Never heard of them, just get some well known brand next time. Mind you, I am not big on color accuracy as the actual paint color varies slightly for different batches of aircraft, ships or vehicles.
>>
I'm about to lay down my first varnish coat with the paintbrush and I am scared. I am using Tamiya.
Got any pointers for me?
>>
>>11299630
don't do it
>>
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>>11299612
Yeah I'm just gonna stick with tamiya and mr color from now on. They feel ok now that I've got them thinned properly and took out the poly mix. You can see every mistake zoomed in but I think it looks pretty good from a distance. My first time doing freehand camo of any kind.

Not really sure how to fix the wings though.
>>
>>11299640
>>11299630
Fucking hell, I wanted to write airbrush. AIRBRUSH! Not paintbrush! My brain is completely fucked today. Do you know that feel when your mind feels like it's out of breath? I also feel a bit dizzy.
>>
>>11299655
Does not look too bad in the pic. Stick with what you like, there is always a close enough color to what you need and if there is not, then you can always mix a color.

By the way, this is for general reference for brush painters (not for (you) specifically), but blend camoflauge can be done with acrylics by using a piece of sponge. That said, it takes a lot of practice and oil paints are easier to replicate the pattern (but are a bitch to use).
>>
>>11299655
Looks fine from this distance. Your paint is still too thick though
>>
>>11299664
sniff some extra thin
>>
>>11299705
I dont know how to get it any more thin without spiderwebbing like crazy even at 10psi.
>>
>>11299571
hello, no-primer-fag
>>
>>11299707
You have to be very careful with how far you pull back the trigger. Practice more on a piece of styrene sheet or similar.
The Luftwaffe mottling is very fun to do once you get good at it.
>>
>>11299718
it was primed. It didn't pull the blue paint underneath.
>>11299722
I have an h&s infinity with an adjustable trigger stop. I was using it at a super short trigger pull but was still getting spiderwebs. Just practice I suppose.
>>
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Alright this is where I call it quits. It's a fine result imo but I'm just not feeling getting the oil paints out and streaking this plane a bit and all that now. Should have polished the canopy too it looks all sorts of wonky and hides the rather nice cockpit. Gonna build something dumb and stupid next and have some fun

>>11298649
Tool is from 2013, but at least one other anon built it too and had a stinker (but also a good result) so I guess it's not just me being retarded. All the other Eduard kits I've built have been great so I guess this is the proof that you really should check any kit before you buy it. Wasn't that expensive though.

>>11299655
Honestly I'd say this looks fine. Good you tried thinning some more because you could certainly not have done the mottling with yesterdays ratios/pressure
>>
>>11299727
>spider web
varnish not thinned enough and psi too high, you oxidized it right at the nozzle to the point where it started drying during spray
>>
>the liquid mask pulled up the brown paint underneath it
im screaming, shitting and crying.
>>
>>11299768
Spider web happens when it doesn't dry you fucking numbnuts.
>>
>>11299800
why brown
>>
Anyone in EU who's built their own spray booth? Where did you get the parts? Hardware stores here don't sell blower fans, and filters you can easily attach to the back of a booth also don't seem to exist here, just rolls of loose fiberglass filters
>>
>>11299818
Yeah I just bought 220V fans, wired them up to go straight into a wall socket, then mounted them to a little piece of scrap metal, printed an adapter for stove top fan ducting and ran that to another printed adapter for the window
>>
>>11299820
Interesting but that doesn't really answer my question, my issue is that I have no idea where to get the components from
I've found places that sell the correct fans but they won't sell to private customers
>>
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>tfw unmasking
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>>11299821
Digikey sells to consumers
>>
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>>11299822
>theres overspray or paint bleed through
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>>11299815
because that's what colour it is? the colour of SHIT.
>>
>>11299818
I am the guy with the carboard box from the last thread. I used a bathroom exhaust fan, duct and a moving box from the hardware store, an LED strip I think I got from Aldi and wired the fan directly to the cord I harvested from an old hairdryer.
>>
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>>11299818
I was going to go this route but your biggest cost is the extraction/exhaust fan, if you don't have one laying around already it's going to cost you the price of a cheap spraybooth alone.
>>
Is there any website where one could order custom decals for a tail livery?
>>
>>11299922
I have one of those chinkbooths right now (the dual fan one) and it does basically nothing, and any competent pre built solution is only available in the US, Japan or China.
>>
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>>11300175
I got one as well, there's a few small things you can do to make it better like sealing up every gap in the front and back where the hose clips on and making the outlet hose as short and straight as possible but yeah it struggles with airflow, I'm debating getting a fan controller and adding extra fans or replacing it all with a 4 inch inline fan.
>>
>>11300229
It's hard to do straight ducting in my case since EU style windows don't slide open/shut, they tilt and turn, so I have to bend the hose a fair bit to get it through the opening unless I just want to leave the window wide open all the time.
>>
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>>11299813
sure, gigaretard, the fluid turns into a gooey web when it's still in its fluid form and not drying unevenly while nebulized
keep yourself safe
>>
>>11277632
mixed results on my first attempt at a bootstripe. only realized how tall it actually was after removing the tape.
>>
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>>11300454
Keep embarrassing yourself fuckface. I hope you grow a brain or learn what words actually mean.
I will leave this helpful picture here so you can maybe help yourself.
>>
>>11300547
>>11300454
Gentlemen, I think there has been a terrible misunderstanding.
Terminology can be tricky, so we need to be on one page about any wording:

What that one anon was referring to as "spiderwebbing" was that paint is too thick and thus forms actual strands coming out of the gun; at least I think that's what he meant.

What the other anon meant, and what is the common use of the term "spider webbing" is that the paint is too thin and/or the pressure too high, so air blows the paint away, as seen in the bottom right of >>11300547's picture. Obviously he's a fucktard for just posting a picture that only makes sense to those already knowing what they're supposed to be seeing, but he's still right.

I hope we can now settle this argument.
>>
>>11300247
Then put the god damn extractor in and close the window on it like the rest of us eurofags do to hold it in place. C'mon now. Take off your negativity approach and put on a "how will I solve this with what I have" you sound like a woman
>>
>europe
>>
>>11300558
>the one using the term correctly is a fucktard
>the one giving false advice based on his misunderstanding of terms is merely mistaken
Okay, retard apologist
>>
>>11300662
If you weren't such a fucktard you'd have noticed that you're not a fucktard for using the term correctly, fucktard.
>>
>>11300663
If you weren't such a faggot redditor, maybe you would grasp the concept of having people figure shit out without literally spelling everything out.
>>
>>11300454
>>11300558
Unless it's (You) trying to play it off cool after discovering google and figuring out that you in fact are a retard.
>>
>>11300680
Not the point, fucktard. Also, very ironic post. Also also, u mad?
>>
niggers
>>
>>11300683
>no u
Ahh shit, you got me. Thank god 4chan is anonymous, otherwise this might have been even more embarrassing for you.
>>
>>11300558
you are correct, I thought the spider web first anon was talking about related to poorly thinned varnish, because I did that mistake myself and went full Spider-Man on my model
>>
>>11300685
Where exactly was that "no u" in my post, fucktard? Are you by chance also a fucktarded newfag fucktard, fucktard? Damn son...
>>
bros how do i stop ordering model kits at a faster rate than i can ever hope of making them?
>>
>>11300801
I will never understand how people can't just stop spending money.
You have to actively buy that stuff, which is harder than not buying stuff.
>>
>>11300801
get better taste so fewer things appeal to you
>>
>>11300801
Just do not contemplate ordering stuff or visiting model shops/websites.

Last year, I bought three kits and one was a two set. It really is not that hard to not buy stuff.
>>
>>11300850
How do I stop buying more copies of the same kit?
>>
>>11300801
put more of your disposable income in fixed-term deposits or 401k where you can't access it so easily and it will sting your asshole if you try to withdraw the funds early
>>
>>11300877
forgot to mention:
>in 30-40 years you'll have enough money saved up to buy out our stashes of unopened kits that we're racking up today
>wagmi
>>
>>11300876
carry on, that's based
>>
>>11300826
having disposable income and not caring about making a relatively small purchase occasionally
>>
>>11300969
...which eventually amount to more.
Protip: Just because you have the money doesn't mean you also have to spend it right away.
>>
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My fucking nerves, all of this just for the CA glue to give up when im eventually going to clear extra residue and sand uneven parts.
I need a better CA glue applicator than tip of a sewing needle
>>
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Thank fuck for modern Zvezda. This build was so easy and satisfying I just kept going and did the whole thing in an evening. Love this retarded lil prototype like you wouldn't believe, gonna paint it as if it is in current active service
>>
>>11301121
I've tried those two-pronged pe applicators and they're kinda nice, but once you scrape the old glue off them the CAPILLARY ACTION on the scratches might ruin them
perhaps they should be cleaned with ca debonder or some such
>>
>>11300588
That's what I'm doing right now, I'm just saying that european window designs make completely straight ducts more difficult, I'm using one of those flexible hoses right now (yes I know they're bad) and I have to twist it quite a bit in order for the outlet to properly stay lodged in the window opening and vent the fumes outside.
>>
>>11301164
don't blame him, it's impossible for the eternal yankee to comprehend how the yuropoor window opens (especially don't tell him about the adjustable, bi-directional hinges)
>>
>>11301121
toothpicks?
>>
>>11301121
>I need a better CA glue applicator than tip of a sewing needle
Use the back of a sewing needle. Clip off half of the eye and you have a homemade two-pronged applicator like >>11301158 described.
>>
>>11300801
>>11300826
if you have the means and it doesnt come at the expense of anything else, then eh why not. No girl, no kids, over 3yrs expenses in liquid assets, 401k at full company match, gonna pay the mortgage off this year. I've pretty much gone full retard with buying every kit I want. Spent an hour tonight trying to commit to starting another kit, rummaging around, but still cant make up my mind.
>>
>>11301415
the added benefit is that you can put the point of that clipped needle through the outermost skin layer of your fingertip (no pain, it's mostly dead tissue) for extra precise application
>>
>>11300876
Well BILL if you think about it, it's the only way to do things! If you mess up a canopy or break a piece, you can quickly replace it from the second spare parts kit. Of course that means you need a third kit to keep in your stash just in case you think of a better paint scheme in the future (can't forget about the spare parts kit #2) and in addition to that not buying one to speculate on the aftermarket would be just criminal. (a spare parts kit for the speculative scalper stash is not required, but highly recommended as if you indeed choose to build the third kit also during your fifth reincarnation loop, you will indeed need the added safety layer of the spare parts kit).
>>
>>11301122
I have this kit in Revell boxing. Maybe I should build it.
>>
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I think im going to stop here with the turret detail-up and scratchbuilding, give it a coat of Mr. Surfacer to see what needs to be fixed and then finish the hull.
Smokelaunchers, commanders cupola, gunners hatch and some other small parts are leftover parts from Trumpeters T-64B kit, snorkel needed some sawing and drilling to make it look closer to how its supposed to be.
>>
>>11301996
It's a really nice build. Cockpit is probably the weakest part since it's all decals. The one large assembly where you mate the front and rear half of the fuselage even has its parting line separately from panel lines so it's easy to fill and sand it away. I built it many many years ago when I was a teenager before so Ill post a comparison in skill when I'm done kek
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>>11301122
>>11302094
Wonder if I should get one and do it as a production ATF.
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>>11302085
That looks pretty cool if one forgets about how the recoil of the cannons would kill the crew.
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>>11301121
>need a better CA glue applicator
use a unraveled paper clip wrapped around an old paint brush
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>>11302133
just make them recoiless then
>captcha: JPAN2
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>>11302133
Yeah it was a pretty big problem during the alternate timeline 2nd world war, but since they´re godless commies it didnt matter that much.
>Westwood aint gotta explain shit.
As a sidenote I found instruction booklet for ICM Soviet tank crew 1979-88 but i have no idea where the sprues are, I was actually thinking about making a diorama around the kit, it does involve making a part of a bridge and sculpting Tanya(´s ass).
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>>11302133
If the Soviets didn't care about their tank crews than neither should Anon
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>>11303790
>>11303790
>>11303790
fresh bread



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