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File: feet indents.png (23 KB, 972x962)
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Why the fuck does every god damn figure have indents in their ankles that make their feet sit in either of these positions. Sometimes I just want the figure to stand normally.
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>>11291631
They're called 'detents'
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I really have never seen this problem outside of hasbro figures, even other cheap toys don't seem to have the issue
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>>11291631
It's only an issue when the interior opening of the ankle disc is a shape that doesn't have enough sides, since each side acts as one detent. So if idiotic people at Hasbro would just start making the shapes decagons instead of hexagons for example, you'd get a lot more positions the feet can 'lock' into
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skill issue.

do you pose the toy or does the toy pose for you?
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>>11291634
I've had it with McFarlane figures, and a couple NECA figures as well, but it is definitely a majority Hasbro issue.

>>11291645
>do you pose the toy or does the toy pose for you?
I like to pose figures in a way that reflects the character. Figures of Spider-man are easy because you can put them in crawling, or three-point stances, or Wolverine where you can put him into a deep crouch, but more rigid characters like Thrawn where having him stand straight up and down in a command pose is more appropriate, but the fucking ankles force me to pose him like picrel figure A, otherwise he stands like figure B and then just fucking topples over. Sometime I can make it work, but then when the weather gets warm and the plastic softens up figures start falling over and knocking others over as well or end up shelf-diving, even if they're on a stand..
It fucking sucks.
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>>11291634
My Mcfarlane Saitama did this before i modded it.
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>>11291631
Could be worse
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>>11291631
>t. Mcfartlane
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>>11291631
Sounds like you are buying burger toys
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>>11291674
What did you do?
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>>11291631
I remember on my Bandai PRIS Pink and Yellow they always fell over due to the weak ankle joints.
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>>11291631
Stop buying western slop.
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>>11292198
>>11294068
If glorious Nippon made the characters that I want, I'd probably buy them.
But then every figure would need a stand because they all use friction joints which end up loose as fuck after using the joint a few times. Assuming the joints aren't already so loose out of the packing that limbs fall off every time you move them.
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>>11294068
Why? Nips can't character design.
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>>11294231
>But then every figure would need a stand because they all use friction joints which end up loose as fuck after using the joint a few times
Easy to tell you have never owned an import because that's nonsense.
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>>11294669
>t. hotgluer who immediately puts their figure into a detolf and doesn't move it until it's time to resell it 10 months later to afford a new toy
All joints become loose over time. It's basic physcis. Japanese companies didn't invent some magical joint that can remain tight forever and its why toy companies started using ratcheting joints in the first place.

I mean, that guy isn't wrong about the stands, since it ensures there's less weight being distributed on the joints, which allows them to remain tighter longer.
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>>11294669
>Easy to tell you have never owned an import
My collection of Figma, SHF, and SHM would disagree.
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>>11294231
What kind of toys are you buying with friction joints that immediately give out after a few uses? More importantly, what kind of serious colletor doesn't have shit to make joints tighter or looser? Silicone oil and polyurethane are dirt cheap for how long they'll last you
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>>11294814
I collect toys, I’m not a mechanic.
Also oil is for loosening joints, not tightening.
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>>11294814
>What kind of toys are you buying with friction joints that immediately give out after a few uses?
It depends, some figures stay fine for years, others are so loose that the joint pops off out of the packaging (I'm looking at you SHM Kong). I've used silicone oil on plenty of figures to loosen joints. My SHF final form Cooler squeaked like crazy when I first opened it up.
But the fact of the matter is even with any joint tightening liquid, all joints will inevitably loosen up over time as the material wears away.
But even if the joints on Japanese figures were made with science magic and never failed, they still don't make a quarter of the characters I like. Where's SHF Grand Admiral Thrawn? Where's Figma Green Goblin? SHM Wes Craven's New Nightmare Freddy Krueger? Figure-rise Standard Conan The Barbarian?
Hell sometimes they don't even actually make the figures they say they will. Where the fuck is the SHF Queen Amidala?
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>>11293153
Popped the ankle joint apart, reamed the inner diameter of the outside portion of the joint, to get rid of the "teeth" then tightened the inner portion accordingly with a coat (or two) of super glue, letting it dry. Now the ankles are just regular smooth joints.
But with the AY coming out I don't see any reason to bother fixing it now.
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>>11294997
You don't have to be a mechanic to put a few drops of fluid into a joint and work it in. I'm not saying you should have an entire toolset to fix and replace shit, but the more you collect the more likely you are to run into questionable QC, and it helps to be prepared. A 50ml bottle will last you basically forever.
>Also oil is for loosening joints, not tightening.
Duh, joints can be too tight sometimes too. I just recently had a figure shear itself in half within minutes because a torso joint was obscenely tight. It happens.
>>11295057
>But the fact of the matter is even with any joint tightening liquid, all joints will inevitably loosen up over time as the material wears away.
Well sure, you will also inevitably die and all of your plastic crack will degrade into dust and the sun will envelop the earth. Even ratchets eventually grind their teeth down and weaken whatever spring mechanism they have, it's the nature of toys being played with. I can't speak for every brand but I have plenty of revos with and without revolver joints and they're still holding up fine after years of abuse, mostly only needing fixing if they had a problem to begin with. Worrying about eventualities, especially if they can be remedied, is just pointless to me.
>But even if the joints on Japanese figures were made with science magic and never failed, they still don't make a quarter of the characters I like.
As a TF fag I feel you anon. It's the one area where domestics will probably always win. I'm lucky to get a niche repaint of a popular character, much less an actual niche character.
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>>11295266
I'm not excusing bad QC or joint design btw. You shouldn't have to perform an entire fucking operation on a brand new figure, it's on the company for putting out a stinker. I just don't think it's worth disregarding an entire other type of joint.
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>>11294779
>My collection of Figma
I've been buying figmas since 2008 and not a single one of their friction joints has become loose over time, much less after using them "a few times". Are you moving them nonstop or something?
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>>11295266
>Duh, joints can be too tight sometimes too.
Ok but that's not the point of the thread.
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>>11291900
i got a gi joe retro cartoon scarlett and she's fucking impossible to stand due to this

ruined the figure and i'm just gonna bring the sander to the bottom of her soles at one point
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>>11294764
nta

but the only figma joints that have become loose is the lower legs i've partsswapped 9000 times wich isn't necessarily intended, and the old hinge wristjoints were very flimsy

rest is all completely ok even if some joitns are tighter than others, heating them up can often kind of reset things too
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>>11296140
to specify, not the kneejoitns that "bend'
but rather the peghole in the lower legs got a bit looseygoosey so they kind of want to swivel a bit

again, i was very rough on these and can probably put some non-acetone varnish in them to remedy it

and I fidget with my toys a lot
the old revoltechs I have with ratcheted joints? those get loose as fuck though
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>>11296140
Sounds like you don't own Figmas where they're holding any accessories or doing action poses

The more weight there is, the more stress and wear happens. A little girl will take nearly forever to wear out vs Guts who's wearing armor over his many physique and holding a sword that extends the load on the joint even more.

A knee joint will take longer to wear out than an arm or elbow joint, since knee joints tend to weight distributed evenly. It's mostly lined up and down, thanks to balance to keep them standing up. Whereas an arm joint being at 90°, 45° or even 15° is being more stressed out 2-20x more, like if you had them swinging a sword

The joints keep their position through friction AND a mechanism, where the joint is held in with a post to keep it tight (also more surface space). So the friction is held in way longer because of a simple mechanic. Whereas the post hole (i assume, since that's my problem too) you're talking about? That's going to give away sooner, because it's purely friction. The plastic wears away and there's no force to keep it tighter.
And take into account materials. Revoltech joints tended to be made of smoother/glossier plastic all other brands, so that's less friction right away.
And since Revoltechs tended to be manly, armored beasts, of course they're going to wear out faster than a Figma, where most of the brand are skinny little girls like pic
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>>11296258
I mostly have dainty girls and they don't carry fuckhuge weapons right

My legs tend to wear down easier as balancing them you put more pressure on them and due to the heavier hair of some of mine they carry more load so I have mostly the opposite problem.

I have way to many figmas yet never use any of their stands. The heaviest accesoiries are relatively normal realistic sized guns or swords. at the heaviest or maybe carrying eachother.
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>>11296147
I wish ratched joints were still the rule for Revoltechs. Miss those damn clicking sounds, but I agree that mine got quite after a decade of usage.



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