Tune-Up Editionprevious thread: >>11548733This thread is for the discussion of scale plastic (and resin, PE, wood, etc) models kit-Post photos of your builds in progress and your finished builds-Have your builds critiqued or critique others-Discuss tips and techniques-Ask for advice or give advice to othersAlways remember:A railway modeler is someone who has a one track mind.Some helpful guides to get started:https://www.scalemates.com/http://www.mediafire.com/view/1vf1aw7v91pz5pa/Airfix%20Model%20World%20Specia%20%28Scale%20Modelling%20Step-By-Step%29.pdfhttp://www.scalemodelguide.com/http://www.modelersite.com/en/area/98/scale-models-techniqueshttp://fichtenfoo.net/blog/model-tutorials-and-in-progshttp://ipmsstockholm.org/https://www.perthmilitarymodelling.com/http://www.primeportal.net/home.htmhttps://www.flickr.com/photos/156268995@N04/albumsPlus there are tons of people on YouTube with pretty good videos on techniques etc.Some sites to purchase models, extras, and supplies:>ebayhttps://www.dersockelshop.de/ (GER)https://www.scalehobbyist.com/index.php (US)https://www.alfahobby.se/ (SWE)http://spruebrothers.com/ (US)https://freetimehobbies.com/ (US)http://www.hobbyeasy.com/ (HK)http://www.luckymodel.com/ (HK)http://www.hlj.com/ (JP)https://www.modellbau-koenig.de/en (GER)http://www.1999.co.jp/eng/m/ (JP)https://www.hannants.co.uk/ (UK)https://www.jadarhobby.pl/index.php?language=en (PL)https://www.bnamodelworld.com/ (AUS)http://volksusastore.com/webstores/scale/ (US) (Carry Mr. Color and GaiaNotes paint)https://www.emodels.co.uk/ (UK)https://www.wonderlandmodels.com/https://www.super-hobby.com (EU/UK/RU/US/PL)https://plastmodel.pl/ (PL/EU)https://agtom.eu/en/(PL/EU)https://exito.site/en_GB/index(PL/EU)https://m-zone.pl (PL only)
Hello /smg/, first time here and completely new to the hobby. I want to restore and slightly upgrade pic rel with some details. So i've been watching "how to" and "restoration" videos to understand techniques and tools needed. But there are so many doubts and the more i try to clear them the worse it gets...Before apply new paint (tamiya) i'll have to add the side mirrors (shown in pic) and headrests (handmade with epoxy):-epoxy putty or clay? -do i simply press it onto the body till it hardens or does it need glue given the small surfaces it will rest on?
After painting how can i get details like intakes and grills on the purple car?The yellow one may looks alright at first glance but outlines look a bit sloppy looking closer. I'll help myself with modeling tape but still...I was thinking of a mix of:-paint for trunk spoiler, windows borders, skirts; -markers for taillights + shader to add some deep-decals for side trims, door handles, hood emblem, plates and headlights-shader (citadel nuln oil) for panel linings, since i don't want those thick black lines i've seen around. And lights to make them look less flat.Sounds an acceptable path to take?
Finishing it: i'll clear coat it (mr hobby), sand it and polish (tamiya) to remove the orange peel effect and have the paint shineWhat do i do with the plastic windshield?was thinking about sanding it and simply give it a layer of clear coat. But i've seen some polishing it, some use polywatch, some woodfloor polish...p.s. sorry for the blogpost and thank you in advance for any hints
>>11576350Paint the mirrors separately and glue them after painting. You will bump them off otherwise.>Epoxy Putty or clay?The one you are more familiar with. Epoxy putty if they are tied. For headrests you are best off drilling a hole in the seat and inserting a peg for strength.Use an enamel/oil wash instead of nuln oil.
>forgetting the titleYA BLEW IT
>>11576280>No titleAn /smg/ worthy of Boxman himself
>>11576801I lost my fucking mind at all of his paint peeling
>inner part of bat wings seperate piece for some unknown fucking reason>cant get seam to disappear>the chrome parts are impervious to bleach stripping again, just like the last one>painting instructions are shit and I basically just have to figure it the fuck out myselfwhy do I keep buying AMT kits. am I retarded?
>>11576898>for some unknown fucking reasonThere are several reasons like they can't mold complex details on the inner face or molding in one piece would raise the risk of short shots and sink marks.
>>11576923would have been much better to just have the entire wings as a seperate piece in that case
>>11576931Why? then you would have a seam to adress all the way around the fin. So you have the outside smooth and in one piece and the inner sides with the seam. I find that option quite good.
>>11576923>>11577043This and this. Do all midwits just surface level everything without trying to understand the reasoning and mechanisms behind the things they use and do?
Any tips on how to create a realistic gun mantlet canvas cover without fucking It up?
>>11577400Wut scale
>>115774061/35
>>11577400What have you tried already? I just watched a Plasmo video where he made a canvas cover from putty. If you make it thin enough it should work.
>>11576931>>11577043I was mistakenly thinking about it from the perspective of an actually good model company that can design and make kits that fit well and precisely. If it were japanese made the gaps would be minimal regardless of it being the entire piece or just the inner half, and filling it would be a walk in the park.
>>11577454Which one?
>>11576280I'd really like to own a sailing ship in 1/72 or 1/350. In plastic preferably, good detail, and <100$ Does such a kit even exist?
>>11577757>good detailalmost all existing kits are over 30 years old so don't expect modern quality detail from any of them
>>11577757Zvezda has a decent selection, my botefag friends don't have any complaints
>>11577400>>11577669This one:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1oHGXkZ-LdAMake the cover from epoxy putty, it will look bad at first but keep sanding and redoing until it looks good.
>>11577409In my small experience making mantlet covers, aluminum foil is a fine substituteCreases scale up with smaller scales
>>11577923>over 30 years oldTry 60As soon as airfix got hold of injection plastic they made some sailing ships and they're still using those molds today
>>11577757Those are tight criteria. Smaller scales are likely to be complete shit. 1/96 is the closest common scale to 1/72 in plastic. This does offer up Cutty Sark and Thermopylae, which are dreadfully ancient molds but contain enough parts and rigging to cover up a great many sins. Both of these can be found on eBay for less than $100 US. For such restrictive criteria, that's about the best you can hope for. You may also find a USS Constitution in 1/96 in the price range from time to time, which needs a LOT of work but can turn into something decent if you put time and effort in. There is also the Lindberg 1/96 Sea Witch, which might have the unique distinction of being the only Lindberg kit that isn't absolute shit. Choose your poison and go from there, because all of these are old as hell molds.
What's the shiniest, most reflective chrome paint you can buy?
>>11578739damn, it's tough I said 1/72 and 1/350 because I'm autistic about having everything in the same scale (1/35 for ground vehicles, boats, some choppers, buildings; 1/72 for aircraft and boats; 1/350 for ships) I guess I'll just 3d print everything when I finally get a 3d printer
>>11578313Also a good idea.How does it look painted? I can't conjure an image in my head of metal foil not looking like metal.
>>11578799Here is how it looks in 72nd scale Conqueror is on hold until I am finished with my frenchoid tanks
>>11578816And finished
>>11578816>>11578819Hm yes it does indeed look "foil-y", but I guess at that scale that's what you work with.
>>11578819Looks like someone took one of those whiteout pens to a plastic toy. Do better.
automotive filler primer took care enough of the bat wing seam line well enough that I no longer care enough to keep trying to hide it
>>11579159>and somehow he does better than meI should really git gud otherwise I will end up like twitterbro or family lighter anon.
>>11579700The secret is to do your best, try to improve every time and if you fuck up, retry. And if even then you fail to improve then just face the facts that you must be twitterbro levels of peak boomer retarded, physically unable to better yourself and end it all.
>>11578798Well, fair enough I guess. If you're determined to satisfy your scale tism but still want to build sailing ships, then probably your best fit would be Imai's series of 1/350 scale tall ships. I have no idea how many of these Imai made, or what they might presently go for. I think the molds were taken over by Aoshima, who may or may not have released all of Imai's line. They are also older molds, mostly from the 1970s, but being Japanese a bit higher quality than most 1970s era molds. The detail on them (they are rather small) is probably about equal to a 1/700 scale ship, maybe a touch better. It's been a long time since I built one, I did the 1/350 Nippon Maru when Desert Storm was live on TV. While relatively nice, for the scale and era, I can tell you these are fiddly as fuck to build and doing the rigging will probably eat your soul.
>>11579795Thank you so much for the info, I'll definitely look into them
>>11579756I guess, it also does not help that up until very recently, I was using 20 year old Testors Acryl paints (last I used one was in 2024).Even with good paints my skills are lacking, but I should build more often.
>>11579620Quite an impressive vehicle. Will it be semi-gloss black? Or what is the historically correct choice here?
>>11579823No problem. I would have mentioned them in my previous post but I forgot they existed. When I was thinking about what might be out there in the smaller scales all I could think of were Airfix and Heller ones. There is also an Academy 1/350 Cutty Sark that scalemates lists as 'new box' and possibly derived from the Imai kit, but it does have different parts so might be 1990s tooling. In any case, I found a youtube build video so you can at least get an idea for what working on tall ships in this scale might be like before you jump in.https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i645HYUg-ZE
