Does anyone know what could be causing this issue with my CRT?https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FStt_wPjsgs
>>11509763Does it happen regularly or only when it switches from interlaced to progressive?
>>11509770It seems to be triggered by a sudden change in what is on the screen. When I tested it with Mario kart wii driving around was fine, but when I got hit by the lightning power up it flashes black and white. Its always the same things that trigger it.
>>11509772If your caps don't visibly look faulty, test them with a multimeter. There should be resistors showing you what the ideal current should be
>>11509763You should leave it, it looks cool that way
>>11509763Open it up and check what chassi the TV uses for startersPeople love to say muh caps but it might as well be a ic, resistor or diode.
This is the info sticker
>>11509763Looks like a loose sync wire. Probably nothing actually wrong with the CRT itself.
>>11511080I doubt it is sync related. As I said getting hit with the lightning power up in Mario Kart also triggers it.
>>11509763I think CRTs use a lot more electricity with brighter colors such as white, especially fullscreen white. It appears to be somewhat similar to the issue I have with one of my beloved monitors. In the dying days of this CRT monitor, I had to boot into a fully black screen then turn on the monitor to wait a couple hours, just for it to "warm up" to start displaying anything. If a screen was too bright, especially during its "warm up" phase/time, it would flash a few times then go into its dying safe-mode amber light. If it had enough time to "warm up" it would function just fine with almost anything but a full screen white for a prolonged amount of time. These days this monitor just fails outright into the safe-mode amber light. I've saved up a couple hundred so far to have someone repair it, but I think I am still a few thousand dollars away for anyone to seriously attempt to repair it. So far not a single person is willing to even try such work.>>11511078There's your problem right there: it says made in China. They purposely make things cheap and reduce the purity by adding in gutter oil or something to the substance mix for larger quantities requiring less pure material. The product was intended to be used briefly then immediately discarded, as it is not meant to last.
>>11510732For a lot of niggly little CRT problems, reflowing solder joints and replacing capacitors is a good starting point, especially if you don't have the tools to test and/or if you can't find documentation on the monitor. Especially for a budget set like OP's monitor, there's a chance the thing was filled with low quality capacitors out of the factory.
>>11511562It's pretty sure you're right, the tube itself is actually quite nice and was made by a manufacturer popular for arcade tube replacements. The board is clean but I'm sure the issue is due to shitty Chinese components or caps failing. ChatGPT says its most likely the Jungle IC based on the symptoms I described, and it does happen to have this oily stain in the middle (picrel) but it could just be shitty glue. I wouldn't usually bother with such a TV but as I said the tube itself is nice but the real kicker is component inputs and native NTSC support including colors (I'm Australian but almost exclusively play NTSC systems). As soon as I get my hands on a decent sized PVM or a branded CRT with the same features this is going to be given away though.
Is something like pic related worth opening a CRT? My Trinitron doesn't have straight horizontal lines, but somehow I feel like I'll make it worse if I mess around with the yoke. Something I never touched.
>>11511740>>11511740Find the chassi name on the board, maybe your question has been answered 15 years ago.
