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/archery/ Thread #2

What's your style?
What you shooting?
What you hitting?
Recs for bows?
Why is the Timber Creek Mamba the best first horsebow?
Dampers are pretty dependent on what you do.
On compound, its not worth it unless you are competing/doing target style.

For recurve, it won't make a difference unless you are already doing well. It tends to come after stabilisers in the order of buying.
How cheap is it to get into Archery? Lets say a beginner bow & arrows + gloves or anything else you need? I've always been interested in it since I was a kid but never did anything about it. I don't know how seriously I would get into it, but I still think it would be fun to get a bow and practice at a range.
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>at a range
if you don't plan to shoot on your own property or /out/doors, your local club will have bows for you to learn with. So it's as cheap as the club fee. Though you'll want your own bow once you're certain you'll keep going. If your club is any good they'll be happy to help you find a good deal on a quality bow.
What style(s) are you looking to try?
this >>138354 except buy from an actual archery shop, online or in person. Scamazon is how you lose money.
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>there's a range on base
>unlimited 24hour access for free
>move station
>there's nothing for miles on end
I didn't know how good I had it bros...
I got my first compound bow at a pawn shop for $30. Even got some arrows included. I had no idea what I was doing back then and just thought archery would be fun to try. That bow was not all that great but if ur ballin on a budget it gets the job done.

Also found out later the sights on the pawn shop bow alone cost $50 so that was cool.
Post the bow.
How was the condition?
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Made my own bow and string, no idea how to shoot really but it's been fun so far.
I didn't realize the archery thread was on /xs/ and just assumed no one did archery on 4chan

anyway, I shoot barebow and bought a Zniper rest this week so hopefully I can actually start hitting the middle instead of grouping to the left
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Nice anon, only tried fletching myself, rather satisfying. I'd recommend looking up Richard Head on youtube, they're a father-son duo of Bowyering and fletching. They have some good guides on there.
I know right, took me forever to find this, would've expected it on /k/ or /out/
Well done, lad. This looks great
That's really good man. You got any WIP images or a guide that you followed?

Grouping left is normal for a Med-draw bow, you need to either get better spined arrows, or aim off.
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Thanks anons, I followed Dan Satanas guide more or less. You don't need much more than some basic wood tools, a scale, and a lot of patience.

Learning to shoot now, my shots all seem to group right (shoot left handed). Is it normal to have to aim off even with correctly spined arrows?
>Is it normal to have to aim off even with correctly spined arrows?
If you are using med draw yes that's normal. Correct spine can help reduce that, but yeah it will fly right for a lefty
damn bros, I've been shooting like shit recently
I think I need a resistance band and some lat exercises
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After shooting a rental bow for a year, I've finally decided to buy my own. Well, most of it anyway. the only thing that was still rented are the limbs. The shooting feels completely different and the scope setup is slightly scary. I always screw the wrong way around. But I'm damn happy and feel like a kid on Christmas Eve. the only thing i regret is that i didn't start this sport much sooner
Looks good man, what is it?
How much was it?
What arrows?
>A Sebastien Flute ISO Pro 25" right handed
> two 12" Winners SMC stabilizer
> one 30" Winners SMC stabilizer
> avalon tec x duo v-bar duo mount
> Winners carbon scope spr-100
> 10 Cross-X Carbon Ambition Arrows with a spine of 1100 and 26,6" length

It would cost me arround 820€ (without the limbs). But the store I bought this from gave me the rent from the previous bow as a sort of discount, so I only paid 710€.

The limbs are some 66-28 lbs winners premium-a limbs (6 Month/25€). a nice upgrade from the 66-22 lbs limbs i had before
Can /archery/ recommend some good entry level guides, YouTube channels and other resources, for an archery noob looking to learn more about it?
Been taking a small, weekly archery course at college the last few weeks and am enjoying it quite a lot.
Nusensei is the go-to for most resources.
He has a video on every single aspect of archery and bows in general.
recently ordered my first real bow
>White Feather Forever Carbon 53" 60# version
any thoughts on this one what I am in for? or on korean horse bows in general. Does anyone have experiance with the White Feather bows?
This one seems identical to the daylite Monarq which seems to be a really good bow, I am hoping they are from same factory but just a rebranded version.
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I wish compound bows werent such a PITA to setup and fix. Ever since i got mine, nothing seems to go right.
Now to be fair, its my own fault for accidentally dry firing the thing (low poundage so only the strings broke). But even before that it was already giving me trouble.

>install peep
>it wont stay in right place even after twisting strings
>install d loop
>it stretches out way further than it should
>tie shit down
>the strings fray and unravel even after superglue
>carefully bow press and remount new string and cables
>cables slip to the side of the cable guard wheels
>not even getting into the bullshit on cam alignment, rest height, etc etc

This is after like hours of watching youtube tutorials. I dont get it how it just werks for other people.
I know a pro shop will fix it, but i dont wanna fork out 30-100 bucks every time something goes out of alignment.
33” arrow shaft
350 spine
Arrow grain 260
Arrowhead either 100 or 125 grain
60lbs bow

Did I fuck up? Are the arrows too light? Which grain head should I use?
anyone have any insight onto Killer Instinct or Barnett Crossbows? Also apologies if Crossbows are on a seperate board, I haven't talked about mine on this site in a couple years.
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I am on the complete other side of the spectrum (homemade longbow) and feel your pain anon.

>overspined arrows
>got them with vanes and not feathers
>tfw shooting off the hand
>have to learn how to fletch now
>homemade Flemish twist from aliexpress string material stretch's a random amount
>still trying to dial in brace height
>string kept slipping off
>had to recut the knocks
>bought cheap serving material
>its too thin so I have to double it up at my nocking point

The target I made works great at least lol
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All good skills to learn, that's one endgame for me as well, to be able to make a bow from scratch for those ultimate survivalist innawoods daydream scenarios.
For right now I need to stick with these 100-point-of-failure nightmare machines just so I can have something to hunt with. Not strong enough for high poundage recurve or trad bow
Do Arrowheads and the Arrow itself have to have an even distribution of grain? I need to have 500 grain arrows for the crossbow im going to get to prevent the limb from breaking and was considering some heftier practice heads for my 300 grain arrows for practice and some heftier ones after I get a feel for this crossbow, but I can just buy more heftier arrows from the get go if need be, just figured since I already have what I have and all.
I don't shoot a crossbow specifically, so I COULD be wrong, but generally it is desirable to have some front of center weight distribution. About 12-15% front of center gives the best flight characteristics. Hunters will typically go towards or above the top range as it tends to give better penetrating power. The weight of the arrow tip between the head and the insert can contribute significantly to the flex of the arrow, as the arrow head has greater inertia that the arrow bends against. Arrows with differently weighted arrow heads will group differently because they increase the compensation of archers paradox.
For a sixty pound bow that might be too light. Typically you need about 7 grains per pound (on the light side) to be easy on the bow itself, and for consistent arrow flight. If you put too much weight at the tip to compensate, your arrows are going to get real flexy, especially with a 33" arrow. You might have to go up in spine and find a heavier arrow. The Easton axis 5mm are pretty dependable in my book and dont destroy the bank.
>bought some cheap bow to practice because muh covid muh SHTF and was planning to make my own bow in future
>no decent hill to shoot at, so constantly lost arrows
>cheap-ass arrows were breaking easily
So either I have to build a huge archery range with catchers or start stalking the neighborhood in search of good spot...
And to duck-tape around the nocks for durability.
>I didn't realize the archery thread was on /xs/ and just assumed no one did archery on 4chan
I was surprised as well, with archery threads beign rather rare on /out/. Apparently doing anything outdoors is an extreme sport nowadays. Or maybe this board is so slow that anything goes.
I weighted them and they are around 435 grains total (with the 125 head). Its around 7.2 GPI with 60lbs bow.
Maybe I can add some fine thread +glue at the end point in between the arrow and nock to add weight?
>hit target
>use blank tips and hang a sheet from a tree branch, wire or thread to use as target as your arrows will just fall on the ground
>order some shafts and make your own arrows
Tips are pretty blunt already. The ground is simply soft af.
Anyone got any tips for getting into traditional bows?
Are they hard to maintain?.
I shoot a barebow recurve atm, I was thinking of getting a flat bow as they tend to atleast have arrow rests.
>Arrow rests
If you're not slicing your hand open on bare feather fletchings with each shot you're not doing it right.

Also by traditional bows do you mean self bows/long bows or anything that isn't made out of fibreglass/carbon/metal?
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Haven't shot for 18 years. thinking about going all out and getting the Mathews phase 4 kitted out it'll run like 2500 bones. Thoughts?
I don't know if the definitions are universal but here in England, traditional means longbows/flat bows/horse bows, basically bows that are historical and don't fit into barebow, olympic recurve or compound definitions.

I'm not looking to make my own bows as I don't have the space, tools or time

But yeah, I was wondering if anyone here knew if traditional bows were particularly annoying to take care of compared to modern bows
I have an ash selfbow, it's mostly just bees wax and trad oils like boiled linseed I use on it, nowt fancy just like the bow itself. It's literally a stick and string. I'd check the Youtube channels HistorySquad with ex Warwick Bowman Kevin Hicks or Richard Head Longbows. They have a good deal of information on longbows.
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I’m confused trying to calculate draw length. I use the wingspan divided by 2.5 technique and get a draw length of about 27.6” or 27.8”. If I draw an arrow and measure my length of draw, I get about 27.5” to 28”. Should I just round up to 28”?
Suggestions for beginners bow? I am interested in working my way up to hunting, so I suppose I should get used to compound. Where should I start? How do I avoid getting ripped off? Are second hand bows even an options & if so what kind of wear should I look out for. I know someone already said that your local club will set you up but I already know for a fact the dude that owns the local club owns the only sporting goods store in town that carries a lot of bows.
Generally, calculations are shit. You have to tune it in over time. Sometimes you find out you're over drawing or under drawing, so a form check while you measure is also important. Unless you're shooting Olympic recurve with a clicker, or really dialing in a compound, it's not that important. Just make sure your arrows are long enough you're not pulling them off the shelf.
If you're going into compound, go straight for compound. PSE makes pretty good bows, and they have some decent budget options like the stinger. Second hand bows are an option and a fantastic way to save money, just make sure the limbs are in good shape and the wheels are straight. Most archery shops have competitive pricing, and are worth supporting. Having someone in your corner who can warranty the bow and help you set it up is sometimes worth the extra 5-10% in price.
The question is simply, how traditional?
Most bows are finished with fiberglass and resin, it's very low maintenance. If it's a pure selfbow even, it's usually sealed pretty well, you might have to twist it into shape once in a while. If you go full retard and get a traditional horn and sinew horse bow wrapped in birch made with fish glue, then it's going to take a lot of specialized maintenance and tools. A bamboo Japanese Yumi sometimes needs to be put in blocks to get the shape back. In all likelihood a problem you're not going to have to deal with, because the vast majority of bows are super low maintenance
>Haven't shot on 18 years
If you haven't shot for that long, get something used first. V3/V3X's are on their way out and halons still hit hard till this day. The phase4 shoots incredibly well but if you're just looking to get back in then used is much better since you won't get fucked financially if you decide to stop shooting.
>Having someone in your corner who can warranty the bow and help you set it up is sometimes worth the extra 5-10% in price.
This. I got my first bow and the dude set it up perfectly and even called afterwards to make sure it was working as it should, gave some tips and told I could call/message anytime if I wanted advice. He was an old olympic medalist and cool as hell and really good service.
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how to get qt archer gf?
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Silly question. Was a quiver like pic related ever used by anyone in history?
Side.. hip.. back?
Daily reminder that real men don't use compound bows.
That shit's for weak sissies.
Quivers come in a ridiculous variety of shapes, sizes, and specialized purposes from a million different cultures, and archery styles. There's enough larpers, and chill historical archers kicking around in any club that people don't even give you side eye about weird quivers. Hell yes my man to all of the above. You'll even have guys that do oly wearing their quiver weird because it suits them, and nobody bats an eye.
Compounds are for people that desire the highest accuracy and precision. Whether it being for hunting or target sport, compound archery is as much a part of archery as any other. There is no 'real' archery, otherwise it just becomes a race to the bottom for the worst possible bow shot in the dumbest way possible, or increasingly autistic divisions of the sport. Keep that shit to yourself, and out of your local club.
Shoot a 100lb English long bow and slowly destroy your rotator cuff to look cool. Then get in an altercation with the club president over etiquette because it cramps your historical accuracy. Generally talk shit about the pussies out at 70m shooting Olympic, because they're not real bows. Later, lose all your arrows trying to hit the target butt at 70m, and waste hours of peoples time trying to find them back after every end. Later, once the girls are impressed, give them some tips on form and training method, despite being the newest member of the club. Lastly, be a giant safety hazard, because girls love danger.
hip quivers are good, i used to use one all the time for target competitions. would effectively look just like that if you wore it on the rear. Only bad thing is losing your arrows if you bend over the wrong way...
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You found me to a fucking tee
There's one of you at every goddamned club, and they ship a new one every year. It's like they're made in a factory. I don't even have to tell you, if you like archery you'll change, you'll be better, and you'll sneer at the new asshole just like the rest of us.
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Nice thread. Spent the day dialing in my first bow (Diamond Edge 320,) having bought it like 9 months ago and neglecting it out of frustration. Picrel is at 20m and ramped it up to 35 once I got a couple of bullseye groups and I was confident I wouldn't accidentally bag a cow if I missed.

First time playing around with the pins as well, though I just dropped the bottom own right down and the middle to suit the 35m range.
At the moment the entire sight's sitting right near the top of its range with the pins grouped offset towards the bottom... I'm going to take it to a range to get it set right with a proper backstop, but just out of curiosity, do I want to move the pins up and keep the same distance between them 'til the center pin's in the middle, then drop the entire sight down the same distance to compensate? eg, if the group of pins move up 20mm, do I move the whole sight down 20mm, or is there some kind of fuckery involved?
Certified trad bow cope.
anyone got a archery theme tattoo? i joined this sport 2 years ago and it changed me positivitly. i searched for one online, but this shit is either connected with multiple circles, a compass or some "love, life, laugh" text which looks retarded
>He can't shoot an english longbow.
>I have to wear my hobby as if it was a fashion statement.
Bitch please.
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Been getting back into fletching recently, finished putting nocks in these yesterday & gave them a coat of danish oil today.
How do you do this? I started blacksmithing and it would be pretty cool if I could make a complete arrow from scratch
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I bought some shafts from Richard Head (UK), along with some horn slips and feathers for fletchings.
Their Youtube channel has a few videos on how to make stuff from using a shooting board to shape your own arrow shafts to making your own bow string. They recently made an amalgamated video on their guides for arrows;

Basically cut into the shaft at a right angle to the grain.
Fit and glue the horn in.
Trim the horn when set & dried.
File/sand a nock at a right angle to the horn.
Use some fletching tape to fit the fletches.
Bind the fletchings on with string and tie off.


Hoping to make a shooting board and shape my own shafts as a next project. Hope to get into metalwork too and make my own heads one day. Would be great.

Pic rel; previous attempt before binding.
One of my old arrows after binding. >>140478

You can vaugely see the progression with the binds on this pic, the one with the longest collar was my first one, gradually got better and reduced the amount of thread whilst binding.
Was interested in archery, signed up at my local club and started progressing. Did well enough with the equipment they lent me, but started to get pressured into buying my own and I really couldn't afford getting even a used bow with its arrows, quiver, and other equipment. Was there for about 3 months, shit was relaxing, met new people, and the last arrow I shot was a neat, dead center 10 at 30 meters (100 ft). Loved progressing from the 20s to the 30 m targets, as the sound and the sight of the arrow traveling is so satisfying.
Still, I was a little bored of it as well. As relaxing and rewarding as it is, the sport is just too static. I would have absolutely loved to shoot at moving targets, but never seen those in a range and definitely not in mine.
Thanks for reading my blog. Pic related is me lining up to shoot at 30 meters. Maybe I'll pick it up again.
Is there a /archery/ approved bow?
I did archery alot at my school but I haven't since down.
It depends on what style or sport your want to get into, but the meme answers are always:

>Mandarin Duck Phantom
Good for getting into recurve
>Sammick Sage
Good for getting into target archery
> Timber Creek Mamba
Good for getting into asian styles.

All three are good starters and will take you far, and can overlap styles, but won't be good for if you get into the sport properly.
NuSensei has many good videos about bow reviews, and a good tutorial on buying your first bow.
How good are compound bows compared to normal bows? I got a compound bow years back see.
Also anyone got tips on how to use a compound bow? Cause my teacher/club teaches me how to aim with a normal bow. So when I try to aim with my compound bow it feels… weirder. Like I’n supposed to allign my right hand with the chin and the string with my mouth and nose. But when I try home with the compound bow that screws my aim and it’s better to just use the chin and keep my nose somewhat away
I also wonder if there is a way to “fix” my bow. When I brought it the arrows penetrated coconuts but feels it doesn’t shoot as strong anymore
Thanks I ended up buying a mandarin duck phantom
I hope you enjoy it.
My only real tips for first time buyers is: get good arrows.
Not only should the spine match, but they should be name brand and not cheap. Trust me, if you buy the cheap ebay arrows, you will shoot badly, and break them all the time.
From my experience girls are generaly impresed by archery skill. Not sure if its because they like men who are dedicated to something or if its some DNA memory kicking in from medieval times.
6'3" guy here, trying to get into archery. There's literally only one archery club in my country and it's in a basement of a public school. At least I'm lucky enough for it to be close to me.
The thing that pisses me off most is how expensive and hard to find 27" recurve risers seem to be.
On top of this, it seems like local shipping services don't allow shipping bows and I might even need a license to fucking own one. Someone take me off this ride. I just thought that archery looked cool.
P.S. The left shoulder muscles are killing me
wut country?
As someone with a ridiculously long draw, (33") you can probably get away with a 25" riser as long as you get long long limbs. You're gonna need a little more dampening, but stacking shouldn't be an issue. My 25" riser works just fine. 27" risers are such a huge increase in price for a small increase in performance, and your resale drops off harder too.
It really depends on your bow specifically, but generally speaking compound bows are more powerful and accurate for a few reasons. You can tune the limbs and the length of the draw, to change the power within a certain range. Anchoring a compound is a bit like anchoring an Olympic bow, same principals. Compounds should have a peep sight in the string and a sight pin on the riser so it performs more like a gun. Shorter hunting compounds often need a mechanical release tool because the string angle is too acute for finger release.

Yeah, I figured that's what I'd have to do. 25" should be enough, since I think my draw length is around 30.5 (My wingspan is the same as my height). The only reason I was considering 27" was to have more available range just in case, but that was before I knew about the prices...
I don't want to buy things too soon in case I get disinterested with the hobby, but the club's stock isn't great.
How do you start in archery? Get into a club or can you self-taught?
Usually there's a club in a school gym nearby that lets you drop in and borrow a bow. Usually worth going a couple times or getting a couple lessons before buying a bow. Archery is pretty easy to start, and you can get really far by practicing on your own and watching some videos/reading. You only need to break the bank and go looking for a coach if you want to be competitive, and you'll spend a lot more money on equipment and driving to the range than coaching. There's a few takedown bows like the PSE nighthawk and the samick sage that will take you surprisingly far given what you spend. Compound bows are money holes that require a ton of peripheral gear, but they open a lot of avenues for hunting and competition. Olympic bows are just money holes
If you’re just interested in shooting a basic bitch recurve with no sights, bells or whistles, it could not be simpler to start and get pretty good at. I took one in-person lesson then started watching youtube videos on my own. Still plenty of room for improvement but I get pretty tight groups and slap that target consistently. Very satisfying. If you want to compete in Olympic archery you’ll need a coach but I’m content with with my stick bows.
Side note, avoid any club with high monthly fees and regular lessons. Archery isn't that complicated, and the overhead shouldn't be that high. People don't have a good grasp of the basics of archery, they don't understand where the skill ceiling is or how long it takes to get there. I'm seeing mcdojos pop up lately with incompetent instructors and abysmal archers that charge $100 a month. If your Trad archery coach can't make a fist sized grouping at thirty meters they're not worth your time, and if their students aren't comparable you should be aware of a scam. The exception is old guys with great students and a destroyed rotator cuff.
I’m shocked you can even find a “trad archery coach” where you live. I live in semi-rural Pennsylvania and almost none of the clubs or archery stores nearby offer any sort of lessons, and if they do offer lessons they’re extremely basic compound bow techniques. I payed 30 dollars and drove an hour for a recurve lesson where the instructor basically told me things I already knew and they were impressed by how I was grouping immediately. It felt like a waste of gasoline honestly.
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hello i got my first bow coming daylite monarq 53" 45lb max draw 34". Yes I am well aware this weight isn't recommended for beginners but basically im fucking ripped. 32" arrows on club bow were too short, barely staying on the arrow rest. Dont know what it will be for my asiatic bow thats coming though. I measure 33" hand to middle of ribs (picrel). Do i get 34" inch arrows and then cut them if needed?
Started archery yesterday (joined a club). The only thing that's been concerning me: does it develop asymmetry? I don't want one of my arms to be bigger than the other
You might also want plenty of arrows.
Once you get into the correct form, you'll see that it
1. doesn't really change body size. think about the difference in strength vs hypertrophic strength athletes.
2. you don't use your arms much at all for drawing arrows but rather you upper back and rear delts. things that people barely use and barely see.
The only muscles that get seriously worked in archery are your back muscles, and they’ll be worked pretty evenly with proper form.
wrong your whole arm gets worked by archery, in England they used to train as children in medieval times, then they always trained with stronger bows, causing a lop-sided development to one of their sides that was the pulling arm, your shoulders get work, your arm gets work as well as your forearm.
t. very new to archery and get's their historical information from hearsay.
Do you think that Mad Jack Churchill was epic and based as well? Do you listen to Sabaton?
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Hey guys not sure where else to ask this but what do you think of slingshots? I like bows but I'm not crazy about em and I don't have a space to do it here. However I really really like roman slings, and i feel like your perspective on them in general or any specific aspect is valuable. Anyone care to share their take?

(not talking specifically about arrow slings, i just toss rocks)
I cannot help, but jesus when was arrow slings ever a thing? That sounds fucking badass.
any sites you guys recommend buying arrows in bulk from?

I think you lot would enjoy this weapon, kek. Would be great for survival.
I bought a historical bow from a well known chinese bowyer to practice gaoying style. Don't even have arrows for it yet because I wanted to see where my draw length would settle with thumbdraw, but it's difficult to practice because my thumbs only cooperate 1/3 of the time. Sometimes the ring fits perfectly, sometimes it'll slip, and sometimes it fits but feels wrong and my thumb starts hurting immediately.
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I actually found out about arrow slings from Far Cry 5

this seems really fun to shoot, I feel bad about shooting birds though I'll stick to poking melons
The peep sight thing is not easy to fix. I don't use one at all. I just tie some off color string on in the same location as peep would go. I can see it fine and it works fine. There are also sights designed to be used without a peep.
D loop shouldn't stretch. I don't know how you managed that.
Not really. In cross training you should be working both sides anyway.
Is the EK exterminator any good?

Looking for a compound for target, but want something cheap compact and versatile, since I won't be competitive without a decade of practice either way.
>don't have space to do archery
>considers roman slings as an alternative

I dont have to collect the rocks i throw into my neighbours houses
just bought my 1st compound bow (first ever bow)
any tips?
I have zero experience with bows but I'm hitting the target at medium range with no problems
haven't tried long ranges yet since I don't have the space readily available
it's 60lbs draw weight
also should I upgrade?
since I bought a beginner bow for under 500$
are 1000$+ compound bows worth the price?
are they more durable or something?
why are they that much more expensive?
Compounds are a little strange, but here's what i can offer:
Use a release aid, do not use your fingers.
You just got this bow, there is no reason to get a new one so soon.
"i hit just fine at medium range" is the most common measure said by newbies.
Measure your distance and score your shots if you care about getting good.
Make sure your arrows match the bow.

And they tend to be more expensive because of higher tolerances, and more consistent results.
I have a release aid that came with the bow
it surprised me at first how sensitive it was but I got the feel for it now
what are the ranges of a bow? (short, medium, long) your advice on specific ranges I should practice at I mean
I don't have access to a archery club near me is why I'm asking

>Make sure your arrows match the bow
bought the cheapest arrows I could find
>80 cm carbon fiber shaft
>8mm outer diameter
>3 inch water drop rubber fletching
>500 deflection
>40 grams total weight
they're firing without any problems I could see but again I'm a newbie so not sure what subtle problems I should look for
do strings on compound bows wear out?
should I not practice pulling it? (not dry firing just pulling and letting back off)
should I buy a spare?
5-10m if you are working on drills and don't really care about target scores
But most indoor ranges have a good 15m.
Bare in mind competition is usually 70m.
And with compound, the standard is so much higher.
>bought the cheapest arrows
Please I beg you to get correctly spined arrows. This was the big mistake I made when I stared. I got cheap arrows "to learn on" but they all eventually broke anyway. And they were no good to use in the first place.
Spend a bit of money on the arrows, 12 should do, make sure they are the right length and spine, and enjoy shooting.

>should I buy a spare?
I have bought a spare for every single bow I own.
I have also never ever had to change a string.
Compounds even less likely to break, though you need to draw and release right, applying to my twist will de-cam and fuck everything up.
>practice pulling it
simply no.
It's your money so if you slip and dry fire, it's your wallet not mine.
If you want to do some practice drawing exercise to develop your back muscles, buy a stretching band.
I'm sure you know but just to be clear: NEVER DRY FIRE A BOW, ESPECIALLY A COMPOUND.
>Please I beg you to get correctly spined arrows.
my arrows are listed with 40 grams which translates to 617 grains based on google search?
My compound bow has a max draw weight of 60lbs but my draw length is only 27.5 so I have it adjusted to the max draw weight but I'm guessing the draw weight is lower than 60lbs cuz of the lower draw length (around 55lbs would be my guess) since it's max draw length is 31.
are these arrows wrong for my bow?
>500 deflection
>30.25 inch/77cm
>8mm outer diameter

As I said I've been using them without any problems I could detect but not sure about the subtleties to look out for.
I just don't want to break my bow by using the wrong arrows.
>But most indoor ranges have a good 15m.
thanks good to know.
I've been doing 15m since this is all the clear space I have in my home.
So far no problems and the bow is very comfortable to shoot and I get an average of 2-3 arrows dead center every 12 shots.
I'm asking all these questions because so far every things been great despite me having zero experience with archery,
like I'm waiting for the other shoe to drop so if there are any pitfalls that's "not in the manual" I'd like to head it off before the problem happens.
Really nice anon. I tried making a bow out of hazel with a flemish twist string but I have zero woodworking experience so it turned out pretty wonky and uncomfortable to shoot. It was a fun learning experience making it though.
This guy is a snob, and that's a good thing, he's based.
No one is 45lbs ripped when they start. It's not about strength per se, it's about endurance and joint strength. You may be able to pull the bow, but you need to start low to give your shoulder time to catch up. You're cruising for a repetitive strain injury that could haunt you for years. I wouldn't even recommend that anyone starts higher than 30lbs, even if you're in great shape.
Post thumb ring. Some models just suck and you're going to do serious damage to the nerves and tendons in your thumb. A lot of the models that are sold as being easier for beginners are just bad. Look out for thumb rings that have a distinct shelf/groove between the base and the thumb shield. The pressure on the shelf usually twists the rings and pinches the tendon on the inside of your thumb. The pressure should be on the sides of the last joint of your thumb. Also, thumb rings without thumb pad shields have a specific orientation, they are oval not round. Lastly, your thumb diameter changes with temperature, you can adjust for this by wrapping tape through the inside of the ring or by adding strips of leather.
Feels a little tacticool. The price point is about right for entry level bows, so you could shop around with more reputable brands. Your base bow is very much a buy once cry once deal, especially with compound. You can always save money on accessories like sights, dampeners and weights, but a low quality base will always give you trouble when tuning. You'd also be very surprised how quickly you can become competitive, it really depends on how often and how effectively you practice. Archery is something that people assume is very difficult because Hollywood sells good archers as superheroes. If you get into a club with good culture and a few competitive dudes you'll find you can get very good very quickly
60lbs is a lot of weight! You're not starting too heavy, but just be aware of your shoulder, ease into higher shot count. Measure your distance and track score. Measuring your improvement, and understanding when, how, and why you shoot better is the key to improving. Watch your posture and body alignment carefully, shoot with a relaxed bow hand, consider getting a wrist sling. Tuning your bow is important for precise shooting, and will improve the longevity and performance of your bow. More expensive bows are easier to tune and stay tuned longer, so in essence, yes they are more durable. Learn about arrow spining in depth, it's crucial to both performance and longevity of your bow.
It was from customthumbrings, the korean version specifically. Anyways, it's gotten a lot better. I use a bandaid around the joint to reduce friction and add slight padding, and a wrist strap to offload some of the weight. Surprisingly the bandaid fixed the issue almost entirely, and I never see other people mention it.
I have 25 yrs martial arts experience so archery seems pretty easy to get into.
I bought a Sanlida Dragon X8 since archery youtubers say it's a great beginner compound bow and it's been great so far with no issues I can detect.
Also bought a Mandarin Duck Phantom >>160249 to test out recurve bows which will arrive in a week to see how it compares to compound bows.

I think I'll like compound bows better to aim with cuz the peepsight+5 layer pins is making me group 99% of my shots within the 15cm center ring of a traditional 55cm target I bought at 15 meters.

I bought the phantom recurve cuz I think I can install a arrow rest, peepsight and sight on its riser as well and all the archery youtubers are also giving it good reviews.
And I don't like the idea of traditional materials like wood for my riser for durability reasons.
my only issue with my compound bow is because of my martial arts experience my shoulders are pretty fucked up and I'm having a hard time with the initial draw at the max draw weight
not sure if its my form yet
I'll study proper form but I think it's because of my shoulder injury (i've dislocated my shoulder a LOT over the years)
I think recurves will be easier to draw for me because whats causing me pain is the angle of the initial draw of compound bows.
I made a makeshift draw strength training band with rubber exercise tension bands and can draw over a hundred lbs and keep it steady for over a minute without any pain and very little shaking
>(pic related) each band is 30lbs so 120lbs at max draw
Uhh just do shoulder strength training.
Currently new hobby searching since I'm bored. Before I get started, can an anon just straight up give me an answer on the real "start up" costs if I wanted to get into archery. Including monthly and maintenance costs plus any initial training I would need, how much would I need to get everything I would need with at least "mid-level" equipment for a single setup/bow. Be truthful, no "you can spend $40 at a pawn shop for a used beginner set and then save up to buy a real set once you're ready" type answer.
I spent about 500-600$.
bought a beginner compound bow (Sanlida Dragon x8) & beginner recurve bow (Mandarin Duck Phantom 56"), complete with accessories/starting packages that came with the bows and a traditional target which I just added a backstop behind it from an old PC full tower case cardboard box I stuffed with balled paper to help catch the arrows without damaging them.

I practice at home so no training costs, I just watch Youtube videos.

This would cost even less probably if you don't live in a high tax country like I do.
this is beginner level cost just to be clear
just to figure out if archery is for you or not
mid level costs a bit higher I would imagine
I don't advise going in mid-level on ANY new hobby not just for financial reasons but because the beginner level reveals a lot about a particular hobby more than the mid level imo
A year ago i started to shoot a recurve bow with sight and i have a lot of fun with it. Now i wanted to get a bit into barebow, but dont know exacly how to start. How exacly to i ancer? Do i aim with both eyes or just with one like shooting with a sight? Split or under? Someone told me to use the tip of the arrow to aim, but this make the arrow fly way to the left
You anchor either at your cheek, or by the ear, depends on what style bow/shooting you are doing.
You can aim with both, or one ,so long as you are doing the same thing each time.
>split or under
Dealers choice, depends on the style. I use thumb.
If you are using a med-draw, (using your fingers) then it's normal for the arrow to shoot left for a right handed shooter.
You either check your arrow spine.
Or learn to aim-off correctly.
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my improvised target backstop
15m with the sanlida dragon x8
Dumb question, i shoot a 66" recurve and saw a longbow i would like to buy. But the only option they got is 58", 68" and 70". Would it make a big difference if i go 2" longer or would be a shorter length better?
Probably not. Length of the bow is pretty inconsequential unless you're using the Olympic style limb slot system. A longer bow usually has less stacking, allowing for longer drawlength. You can lose some efficiency due to greater limb weight from increased length IF you're looking at two very comparable bows. unless you have a very short draw length, it should have very little impact. Since you're looking at two non-comparable bows, unless you're draw is less than 26", I wouldn't even think about it
Anchoring barebow can be a bit different, instead of under the jaw you usually anchor in the face. Try sticking your forefinger in the corner of your mouth. Use a second part of your face against the string as an additional reference. Three under isn't as efficient, but it does make it easier to aim because it brings the arrow closer to your eye. Look straight down the arrow, and use the tip to aim. Same as iron sights essentially, use the arrow top as a height reference for your aim, where you place the target relative to your arrow point will change with distance. If your arrows are flying off to the left, there are three issues/solutions come to mind. Most likely, your arrows are too stiff or over-spined. You may be "plucking" the string on release; pulling it away from your face as it escapes your hand. You may need to tilt the bow in a little. It's not uncommon in trad bow because you don't necessarily have a plunger to fine tune your spining.
Depends why you want to go mid-level and which end of archery you're practicing. Compound can easily put you into $1500, if you want to shoot a trad bow you can get it all done for $500 easy. Beginner trad bows are typically of higher quality than is needed by almost any mid level trad archer. The precision of cheap modern manufacturing far outweighs most peoples ability to shoot a traditional bow. You can pick up a good bow for $200, get a couple lessons for 50-100$, buy great arrows for another $100, and still have tonnes of money for memberships and accessories. A BASE compound bow costs about $500 before mandatory accessories, tuning, lessons, memberships etc.
Long or short version? You shouldn't have to offload weight onto a wrist strap, nor should you need padding. The weight should be on the outside edge of the knuckle. The long version of the Korean ring definitely has the offload lip that will give you continuous problems. Be careful with your hands man, nerve damage is a bitch.
I have the long. The lip doesn't bother me as much as the fishtailing but I think my real problem is that my thumb is pretty much a damn cylinder, so all shallow hooked rings will be a poor fit.
>be me
>inherent old compound hunting bow from grandpa
>decide I want to take up archery
>local archery range is on my way to college
>go there after class
>range is in the woods
>they have an obstacle course going through the woods
>around 30 targets strung along a trail
>almost nobody is ever there when I go
>pretty fun
>start finding a few arrows that other people have lost
>guess they’re mine now
>start finding arrows up in trees
>throw sticks at them to get them down
>I now have a large assortment of mismatched arrows
>I get very exited to scrounge for arrows every time I go

Archery is fun
Literally start doing light lifting and your shoulders will heal.
Start doing overhead presses with light loads.
I started a strength program 2 weeks ago and my rugby knee chronic pain disappeared, and now I am squatting 2pl8 with my knees giving me no issues.
I just got my Mandarin Duck Phantom and holy shit Traditional Bows suck compared to Compound Bows.
Any experience on bearpaw bows? The strongbow looks good, but it's hard to find any reviews
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My 80 pounder daylite monarq is coming tomorrow. How much you think these bows are at full stretch 33" or so?
Also seriously thinking about getting the el goblina for some backyard training
Best tip for someone who wants to change from olympic recurve to traditional/longbow?
how much does switching 100grain arrowhead to 200grain fuck up my spine?
new foc around 16-17%
spine 300 33" shafts
Morning sirs lets see if you can help me with a weird one
Would making hide glue from gelatin and then treating my wooden arrow shafts with it have any benefits. ie. would it make the shafts stronger and heavier or would or make them brittle somehow? I would first apply the gelatin glue and after they dried I would finish with beewax. Would this make any sense or not?
Didnt that dude used to make war thunder videos?
Ive had my recurve strung in the top of my closet for like 9 months. How fucked am I?
It's a different game entirely.
Some people enjoy the more "hands-on" shooting experience, as compounds tend to be a lot more reliant on the equipment, comparatively.

it's #80 at 28" so maybe getting onto #86 there.
You used other asiatic bows before?

Learn to string walk and don't let the difficulty curve get to you. It's the same action, just you have to do more of the work.
Also, arrow tip is a great point of reference at the start.

He did yeah, but now he is easily THE best archery youtuber for information.

What is it made of?
What is the climate of your closet?
I have 60 pounder White feather which is korean bow also.
the 80# monarq is a lot harder to draw. the full draw length is supposed to be 34"

did some research and found this https://asiaticbowdatabase.xyz/
a database for measured poundages.
according to the website the monarq 80# is supposed to be over 100# at full draw of 34"
>It's a different game entirely.
Some people enjoy the more "hands-on" shooting experience, as compounds tend to be a lot more reliant on the equipment, comparatively.

I hate that I'm hitting better shots with a recurve bow when I shoot instinctively by focusing on my target instead of my aim.
I get why people treat this as an art as opposed to a compound bow where all you need to do is actually aim with the sights and hit your shot dead on like a gun.
Practically speaking a compound bow is a lot better for just hitting a target with as much power a bow and arrow can do.
but if you want to practice an art you go with a traditional bow I guess.
>don't let the difficulty curve get to you
well, its something i really want to learn, so what ever is going to happen, i may be pissed that i cant hit shit, but i wont give up.

> arrow tip is a great point of reference
i tried using the arrow tip to aim, but it always flies to the left. Also shooting without sight, what is better, one eye or both eyes open?
>using tip to aim but always shoots to the left
This is normal for a med draw right handed shooter.
The arrow tip is just a point of reference, not an auto adjusting laser. You need to get used to aiming off in order to compensate the archer's paradox.
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how real chads shoot
>no aiming with eyes or point of reference
>aim with your heart
>feel it
>use khatra for countering archers paradox
>speed shooting, power shooting
>+80lbs asiatic bow
>+1000 grain arrows
>"a-a-are those arrows or spears" - randomly throws one, bulls eye
>shoots like a fucking cannon
>females get aroused by the size of your thumb
>bulging biceps, back muscles and chest
>let a vigorous roar when pulling the arrows of the target
>all women within 50 meters of shooting range starts instantly ovulating
>virgin compound shooters seething and hiding in the shadows
>a compound virgin asks to try your horse bow - cant even pull it back the half way, tries to aim with arrow tip, fails miserably. "uh im sticking to compound this sucks lol"
simple as
Olympic recurve shooter here, I'm looking to try out Asiatic bows to change things up.
What would be a good mid level bow?
Timber Creek Mamba.
Though it goes by many names. Nu did a pretty decent video on it.
While the low price tag can be enticing, I have some reluctance to buy a fully plastic bow. I'm not autistic enough to go with a horn bow, but I'm thinking about the Ming moon series or something along those lines.
I might be spoiled, living in a country that has decent regulation for sports infrastructure, but my club charges 200 for newbies and 185 for 2nd years and over. And that includes weekly training sessions with a federation-certified coach. 100 a month sounds crazy to me
Historical retard here, give me a recommendation for a bow that meets the following:
>Not a longbow (I'm short and have a small car, a 72" motherfucker will be a pain in the ass to transport, store and walk around with)
>Not a Chinese/Mongolian horsebow (other horsebows are ok, not racist, just don't like em simple as)
>Ideally fiberglass for low maintenance and weather resistance
>30 lb draw weight at max (I got arms on par with SpongeBob, anything less than 20 I have no problem holding a draw for 10 seconds and loosing multiple arrows over the course of a multi hour session, but above and I get gassed easily while my aim goes to shit)
>Can be used with Mediterranean or Slavic draw (don't like thumb rings simple as)
>No Olympic recurve/compound (see the first three words of my post)
>Less than $150 (I'm poor/cheap)
>not a longbow
>not a horsebow
>not a compound
>not oly recurve
sooooooo a hunting recurve like a Mandarin Duck Phantom?
Flatbows and non-East Asian horsebows are also okay
I don't see the difference between east asian and say arab or turkic recurve bows.
It's certain things like aesthetics and siyah design, just sort of triggers a sort of "meh" respons for me, especially if they have red/black lacquer everywhere. Plus, a lot of the far east horsebows are designed to be so small that trying to use a non-thumb draw could result in pinching your fingers with the bow string and I don't want to buy or learn how to use a thumb ring.
Also, to continue my autistic tirade against far east horsebows, I've been trying to find a bow that matches the points I listed on my own for a while now, but most of the models end being named something like "Imperial Manchu Khan Dynasty Phoenix Bow" and then the bow itself looks like it came straight out of a musou game with colored lacquer everywhere and the siyahs have dragon heads on the end with chingchong script all over the limbs. Then I end up groaning in disgust and dumping those results to continue my search. I just found out archery threads were a thing on this site so I was hoping I could find some recs I haven't heard about yet and wouldn't have to go to a shithole like reddit for it.
I don't know where you've been looking, but I don't usually come across over-decorated designs that often, see pic related.

For your bow, have you tried looking at Oak Ridge, or Big Tradition designs? Big Tradition in particular seems to be in your price range.
Found this, I'll need to save up a bit more but this hits pretty much all my needs and has videos showing it can be drawn Mediterranean style.

Unless it's a compound, any bow could be shot with the med draw.
>What's your style?
Olympic recurve.

>What you shooting?
Hoyt Prodigy RX riser, I forgot the limbs model but they're also Hoyt, 66" 34lbs although I only have 32 on my fingers.

>What you hitting?
Best score was 546 at 18m.

>Recs for bows?
Don't fall for the Hoyt Formula meme. You'd have a much easier time buying new limbs if they're ILF.

>Why is the Timber Creek Mamba the best first horsebow?
Looks affordable, not a fan of a full plastic bow though.
bro go to a pro shop, jesus christ.
Ah, a man of class here.
How much did a hoyt set you back?
poor fag detected. i bought a sanlida dragon off amazon last year, shot it for about 10 minutes. walked out of a bowshop an hour later with a mathews V3X.
have been shooting it for a year now, picrel is its current form.
Bought it off my coach at the time who couldn't shoot any more because of an accident fucking up his shoulder.

Got a riser, 2 set of limbs at 30 and 34lbs, the stabiliser set, the sight, a dozen plus arrows, and a shit ton of accessories for 2k1 €. All in all I got one hell of a good deal.
>2k1 €
fucking french man, do you mean €2100?
Good deal desu, post pics.
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Yeah, 2 100€.

I don't have a lot of pics of it, here are 2 I took when I first bought it, with the old set of limbs I used back then, #30.
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I'll try to take new pics with the new limbs the next time I go training. Can't be bothered to put the bow together just for a pic.
I'm new to archery and decided to go for a traditional stye. What kind of anchor point's can i use and what tips can you give me on my way?

Nusensei has made a video on this. It's old but should have all the basic information you'll need.

I'd recommend also checking out his other Archery Basics vids.

TLDW: for beginners, touch the corner of your mouth with your index finger, or better yet, one of your tooth. After that, find a position you're comfortable with and can replicate over and over.
Since you're going traditional, do be careful to aim off if you use your arrow as a sight reference. As a rule of thumb, aim way lower than where you want to shoot.
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The new setup with #34 limbs.
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Nice man, stabs and sights all come with it?
Yeah, everything down to the quiver, arrows, even extra nocks, tips, vanes, strings and finger tabs.
I wan't to try to build my own wooden arrows. But i have a problem to find the right spine for it.
I have a draw length of 26"-27" and shoot a 25lb longbow. What could work?
600 spine seems to be the sweet spot
you could buy a 27" - 32" inch arrow and adjust it yourself.
Cut shorter = less spine
Heavier tip = more spine
I don't know if carbon shaft spine can translate directly to wooden shaft spine, but 600 sounds way too rigid for 25#.
I shoot 720 spine shafts at 32# and it's already too rigid, I should have around 800 or 850.
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>I don't know if carbon shaft spine can translate directly to wooden shaft spine
spine simply means how much the shaft will bend under x ammount of tension. I dont know for sure but Id say there is no difference. 600 seems to be on the middle but probably anything between 500-700 will work just fine.
chart for reference
you could try heavier tip
>I don't know if carbon shaft spine can translate directly to wooden shaft
This, when I try to choose a spine, I get numbers like 25-30, 30-35, etc
It can sure feel important to get ”just right” but let’s be real here if you are not competing which you are not since you are shooting with a 25lb longbow which is essentially a childerns toy it doesn’t matter. Just go with the 25-30 it will work just fine. Remember it’s not rocket science.
If you want min max and play with numbers and small little upgrades - go with compound bow.
Someone explain to me what a "Fistmele" is and if it's still relevant
I think nowadays people call it brace height. It's the distance between the string and the bow, usually measured near where you bow hand is.

Generally speaking, any change to your bow will affect your shots, so it's good to have a consistent brace height because it will be one less factor to take into account.
The exact value of the brace height depends on your bow type, size and manufacturer, although you don't have to have it down to the millimetre.
hey guys can you reccomend me some good carbon arrow shafts? I currently shoot Easton's Carbon one but i wrecked 3 in a forest course and i need new ones. My arrow lenght i 26" and i shoot a 25 lbs barebow
I don't shoot them, but quite a few of my clubmates shoot Skylon shafts.
They are thinner than most regular shafts, so you'd want to use their thinner tips as well, but they're fairly cheap, and durable (I've seen a girl shoot into a concrete wall, and the arrow was still fine).
How easy is it to get into archery?
Is it an expensive sport? I know bows can be pricey, but what about arrows? Can arrows be reused?
I already do clay shooting and a few hours in front of a trap house can easily set me back $200.
Easy to get into, hard to master.
The gear can get pricey fast, though you can find decent stuff for 500ish dollars.
Arrows are of course reusable.

Depending on where you live, you might just pay a unique fee at the local club for the whole year, or an entry fee every time.
Personally I pay like 200 a year to have access to everything my club can offer, which includes and indoor range, an outdoor range, and training with a certified coach.
Anyone here has experience shooting thumb draw? I just got my ring, but don't really know how to shoot with it. Do I rest the string in the middle of my first phalanx like with the Mediterranean draw or does it sit lower on the thumb?
If you keep it in middle it can easily slip which results in a dry fire like thing. Happened to me few times. It can also rip your thumb finger off. You can still shoot like this if your balance on the bow hand is perfect. The correct spot to hold the string is where the horn ring ends on the first joint of your thumb. The string has skin contact this way and it will still hurt your thumb - just like god intended
>thumb fingernail
Isn't the whole point of the ring to prevent your thumb from being hurt?
I shoot arrows with a length of 26" and a spine of 1100-1200. How different will my arrows fly, when i decide to change on 27-28" with a spine of 800. I know if it's to stiff, it will fly to the left, but will it fly differently when its a little bit longer then usual?
1: what kind of bow and arrows are you shooting? Their types can affect the range of spine you're looking for.
2: right or left-handed bow? The thing about stiff arrows flying left only applies for right-handed bows, for lefties it's reversed.

Pic related is for Easton target arrows, variations can exist between manufacturers.
But from a quick glance, your arrows would be stiffer than before, so you would need to soften your plunger button if you have one, or compensate for the arrow flying more away from the bow.
66" Recurve with 26,5" Long CROSS-X Ambitions (1100 Spines)
What's /xs/ opinion on protector rings?
If you don't change your draw weight then your new 800 spine shafts will be stiffer, and will fly to the side away from the bow more.

Thumb rings? They're ok, make for a fun alternative way of shooting.
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No Thumb rings, i mean protector rings for nock and tip
When you reach a certain level of proficiency, it's very easy to hit or at least graze an arrow with another, so an insert at the nock is essential unless you shoot dirt cheap shafts. I don't use themfor the tip, since, so I can't say how useful they are.
I'm retarded, can anyone explain to me how to calculate what spining and grain weight your arrows need? Is it just draw length and poundage or is it also what kind of bow, draw style, etc? Let's say it's a historical fiberglass-laminated recurve bow without a shelf, 3-under draw, 29# at 27" draw. Keep in mind I'm retarded.
>I'm retarded.
Same anon, same
Spine is how much your arrow flex due archer paradox (it’s possible to reduce this effect with thumb draw and khatra)
When calculating a correct spine you take account your draw weight and drawlength (use a sheet which has been posted several times itt)
Compounds transfer more force so you need stiffer arrow (look sheet)

Grain = weight. Lighter arrow is faster. Heavier arrow has better penetration.
Why is this relevant is that lighter arrow is closer to dry firing than heavier one. Some bows don’t take that kind of stress very well and they get damaged and eventually crack. This is why you need correct gpp (grain per pound) again relative to your #of bow. There are some guidelines for gpp usually between 7-11 gpp or even more on some Manchu bows (heavier siyah) while some Korean horse bows are meant to shoot with low gpp
Does anyone know how the draw weight is measured on a yumi? I know draw weights are usually measured at a standard 28in, but kyudo seems to do nothing like the rest of the world, so at what length do they measure it?
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New NU just dropped. Confirmed that he lurks and probably shits on anons here.
>probably shits on anons here
Entirely justified
There's been some drama recently with Sanlida using youtube content creators' content without permission. I don't understand how people didn't see it coming before, considering it's a chinese company, and they've never been known to grasp the concept of intellectual property.
got a 100lbs safari bow. anyone here bear hunt?
Anyone has experience with stabiliser setup for recurves? I'm looking to buy a set from Ramrods, and want to know if there's any general rule of thumb about rod lengths. I've read and heard the central rod should be your draw length + roughly 3 inches. But what about the side rods?
Jesus Christ is the Son of GOD who came to earth and died for the world, so that may have eternal life. Three days later GOD rose Jesus Christ from the dead. He promised that whosever believes in Him, He promised them eternal, when the ask Him for it.

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