~~Skateboarding Edition~~>Where do I start?People typically start in the gym and branch off outdoors and find their niche, be it bouldering, trad, sport or a mixture of the above. Some never leave the gym at all. Ultimately it doesn't matter - just get started and enjoy yourself.>How fit do I have to be to start? Do I have to be able to do x amount of pull-ups?Being light, strong and flexible helps at the higher levels but climbing is open to almost anyone and is fairly intuitive to most. Even if your body is feeble and weak now, you will develop strength over time by virtue of just climbing. Climbing is a holistic sport and success often hinges upon many factors, not just strength and power, but having these qualities definitely helps when you breach into the higher grades.>What shoes do I buy?If you're starting out in the gym, don't worry too much: get some snug shoes without dead space that don't cause you lasting pain. Some people (such as the famed shoe designer Heinz Mariacher) recommend wearing soft shoes when you're starting out -- this makes sense since your footwork will probably suck and the increased feedback will pay dividends over time. You really don't need fancy expensive shoes when you're starting out, but certain shoe properties help send harder problems (e.g. stiff shoes for standing on tiny granite edges or soft shoes for sandstone/gritstone smears).Here are some useful resources for sizing:>https://sizesquirrel.com/>https://rockrun.com/blogs/the-flash-rock-run-blog/rock-climbing-shoe-sizing-guideOld thread:>>207446This anon is a faggot:>>212606
>>213492Let's see here. >Faggot edition title>Bitched about making this thread in the first place>Quotes random reddit faggot because he triggered him, what a reddit thing to do.Fucking terrible start to the new thread, but maybe it's salvageable.
I went to a boulderfest last weekend. It was similar to indoor competitions where you have a certain amount of time to climb as much as you can and record everything on a score sheet. The organizers put colored tape on every boulder problem prior to the event so that you could easily identify them. It was a lot of fun. I certainly got a lot of mileage in; 40 boulder problems in 3 hours.>>213494I keep my promises >>212611
An here’s the thread for outdoor climbing specifically:>>>/out/2728649
Any of you goys tried Skwama and Mandala? How do they compare?
>>213494thanks for setting the tone
>>213492>~~Skateboarding Edition~~>https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oklWQoUFVvYwant to start climbing after 2 solid years of weight lifting/strength training. am a skinny fat deyl atm, only gravel bike and skate most days. see you guys in 2027 :)
>>213530skinnyfat is not a bad place to start honestly. just go for it anon.
>>212907>>212925looking forward to more news from the tiny femanon and her boulder>>213492nice to see Daniel Woods in the OP
>>213492>https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vcqhMInGVKMgod, she's radiant.
>>213556Who? Is she some kind of insta thot?
>>213559>Hannah Meul is a German rock climber who specialises in competition bouldering and bouldering. She won the silver medal in bouldering at the 2022 IFSC Climbing European Championships and has placed second three times on the IFSC Climbing World Cup circuit.
Tom, you're supposed to walk ON the bridge not climb under it!
Damn so soon the old thread hasn't even archived
>>213635mossy
>>213564that's a lot of words just to say "yes"
>>213507Fit-wise they are similar, but the Mandala has less volume in the toe and forefoot in the same size. But it will stretch enough over tine. Its heel is way better though. Hoping they put the same heel on an update for the skwama in the future. Skwama is better for over hang stuff and compared to the no-edge Mandala, which wont catch on stuff as well or allow you to pull a lot with your toes. Its great on slabs and vertical edges, atleast those which you get in indoor gyms. Good shoe, but a bit niche. Mandala is a good complement to the skwama or similar shoes I think. But the no edge lacks the versatility, if you only want one shoe. Cant say much about lifespan yet but the build quality is very good and the noedge supposedly lasts a bit longer before you need to resole.
>>213652she is a professional. what competitions have you won?
>>213662Thanks anon, you're the best!
Any helmets that fit round heads?? Most brands I've tried on have a more oval fit and are either tight on the sides or have lots of room in the back.
>>213667How many competitinos have you even been in faggot? >>213495I'm the anon you quoted LMFAO, I can't believe you're this much of a redditor. Have you competed yet anon?>OOOOOMPHHH, IM GUNNA... SPECTATE.... I MUST.... WOOOCH OTHERS CLOIMBKill yourself.
Speaking of competitions, all the talk in the last thread convinced me to check them out and, damn, there was some cool climbing in the Seoul lead final.Especially the British chick, Erin, who started her climb about 47min into the broadcast. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zt5AbUllQAg
>>213648no moss inside tho
>>213704I think Erin will win at least one WC next season. Shes got the dynamic new school attributes, but already very powerful for her age. Plus has a big wing span. Good slab climber too. Once she grows into her body and becomes more confident I think she can be really good.
>>213698>Have you competed yet anon?Did you even read the post that you are quoting? I competed in a (amateur) bouldering competition last weekend haha. And again, I don't watch comp climbing. You are barking up the wrong tree.I quoted you in the OP as a joke, but I should have left it alone. Let's just leave this shit in the last thread. Tell me something about you anon. Any recent happenings in your climbing world? Goals/plans?
>>213718>I quoted you in the OP as a joke, but I should have left it alone. Let's just leave this shit in the last thread. Tell me something about you anon. Any recent happenings in your climbing world? Goals/plans?Fuck. That's wholesome. Wasn't expecting you to be an adult about this. I'm planning an outdoor trip pretty soon. Been a few months since I hit the crag, was too busy this summer. Also thinking of starting to hangboard since regular climbing doesn't work my fingers anymore. My gym is setting really interesting routes lately, really bizarre shit that's fun to figure out. What's your favorite type of boulder? Overhang? Slab?
>>213788It's a good time to be outdoor climbing now that the weather is cooling off. I've got a trip to Smith Rock coming up soon that I'm pretty excited about. I'll be staying in an Airbnb for a week with 5 gym friends and playing climbing guide.Sounds like you've got a good gym setup. I don't have time to visit the gym during the week and on weekends I always want to climb outdoors. I do miss the interesting sets though, and I'm definitely losing strength... I should be hangboarding more.I find that the rock quality matters a lot more to me than the style of climbing. No matter what type of rock it is, if it's polished then it sucks and if it's sharp and featured then it's great.How far are you planning to travel for your climbing trip?
I GOT A PARTNER FOR WASHINGTON COLUMN LETS FUCKING GOOOOOI honestly have a ton of reading / research / practice to do before I'm ready, but I have time. I doubt that we'll get on it before the valley is snowed out for the winter unfortunately
>>213806God damn that looks huge. How many pitches? Grade?
Up to 140% bw 20mm max hang now Isn't much but that's a whole year of slow steady progress thatGuess I'm not talented in the grip department
>>213824Did your climbing get better at least? Higher grades or something?>inb4 climbing?
>>213836over the course of the year? Yeah, but not sure hangboarding has anything to do with, feel like it's something that will pay off later
>>213687BD Capitan is pretty wide for my head. For context, the half dome and petzl boreo helmets are both too narrow for me.
>>213507i have tried mandala in an try on event and own skwamas. The other anon explained the differences pretty spot on just wanted to add that I like the heel on skwamas way more. It's probably due to my heels being way smaller than the average but the skwamas have way better heel for me. The line strip heel that mandalas have and other la Sportiva models like mantras or solutions comp, just don't fit me and I have so much free space in the heel in them. The bulbous ball type of heel that skwamas and some other la Sportiva shoes like normal solutions, otaki, still don't fill out my heel but at least when I heel hook in them because they are reinforced and I feel more secure pulling on the hook.Most people prefer the mandala heel though because it's more sensitive and should give you more control in theory. Just like the other anon pointed out he likes it more.
>>213662>>213891Thanks guys!I got a pair now, looking forward to using them. Will be interesting how the no edge and heel feel compared to the Skwama
No idea why normies go climbing but don't do 20mm max hangsIn fact I should have ended the sentence after climbing They somehow think touching up plastic is going to make their grip strength better Retarded species
>>213940>No idea why normies go climbing but don't do 20mm max hangsThey're not autistic I guess
Now that it's getting cold outside, will my gym be full of pros who normally go outdoors ?I live at the foot of swiss mountains with a shit ton of very hard routes nearby.
>>213940Ask me how I know you've never sent V5.
>>213940Board climbing > hangboarding
>>213972Which board reigns supreme? I have a moonboard with the 2024 set, and a tension board from god knows where, there's like a million of the damn things. I like how Kilterboards are the only standardized board, it seems like every gym has one, but then it adds a random ass board from the smorgasbord of other options.
>>213940Cause we like climbing better than hanging.
>>213940because it's hard and not immediately satisfying. The average climber would rather just try the gym "v6" he's stuck on for weeks on end
>>214002Ask me how I know you've never climbed V5 let alone project V6.
>>214003i do "v8" in the gym
>>213976I love board climbing. From the ones I've tried, tension board 2 > moon board 2016 > kilter board. Tension board 2 is by far the best board if you're interested in outdoor bouldering, it has very outdoor esque movement and holds, really bad feet for the most part but it's not as thuggy as the moon board, it's more about body tension and position. I'm not a huge fan of the kilter board, the holds are quite good so the harder problems basically come down to doing bigger and bigger moves on decent holds.
>>213954Now that it's getting cold outdoor climbers will be outdoors more than ever. 5-10C are the best temps for sending hard
>>213704Erin McNeice has a youtube channel. She talks about Seoul here:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wrl7S5gIsaU
>>214004American gym or a real one?
>>214002>Be you>Discover hang boarding>Face drips with sweat and you inexplicably feel the most ardent erection you've ever had pulse ceaselessly throughout your body>"Wow... This... this is incredible">Finger tendons miraculously adapt instantaneously, providing an unparalleled mind-body connection, and making you once with your eagle climbing spirit>Eagle-roar.mp4>Approaches friends>"Hey guys, y-y-you should t-try this s-sometime">mindless heathens laugh and ridicule the idea as they fart mindlessly, letting fecal matter stain their underwear as they take a seat onto the disgusting, plebian floor>"HAW HAW HAW" they retaliate>"You should just climb brahhh" one says as he puffs his dirty, stained, browning bong and puffs the resulting smoke in your face>You back away, horrified, as you realize the ineptitude of others>"They... will never understand the truth">"It's... just too hard for them...">A clean gentleman with a jawline with what seems to be made of iron, steel, blood, and chalk approaches you with an envelope>The elite society of hangboarders invites you to grace them with your presenceThis is how you sound like.
>>213556This boulder they were doing looks... fun? Maybe? One of the guys was saying the rock is very smooth so some of the last moves are extra difficult due to that.
>>214079He still sounds better than you, ESL.
How do you guys deal with the nerves when bouldering outside? I’m kind of terrified of topping out, especially when it’s slopey.
>>214149Its regarded as like a top five climb in Fontainebleau. Unfortunately those popular climbs there are permanently full of chalk. Wonder if soft sandstone like that "soakes" up chalk more then other rock types? Its definetly a combination of people not cleaning and the popularity of the area, but everytime I am in Font, the rock just seems so much more stained compared to other places I've been.
>>214163More trust in your abilities goes a long way as well as doing the moves with more intentionally (considering the the landing, pads, and spotters are in place). Basically, if you half ass moves at the top you usually get into more trouble than going for them with full intent. This is not to say you want to climb totally dynamic (this causes you to swing out and break you ankle if you fall), but to strike a healthy balance between going for a move with momentum/intent/confidence, but not over doing it. Knowing the exact beta for top before attempting obviously takes away second thoughts and risk. Goes without saying.
>>214163bail out, then sit and lament. works for Daniel Woods
>>214163Like the other anon said it comes down to experience. You have to be able to make a convincing argument against fear. Or trust yourself enough to just turn your brain off.
>>214165>>214180Thanks. I reckon I should also just climb a bunch of really easy problems just to get used to making moves high up.>>214166Self-flagellation’s what I do too. I’m almost Daniel Woods, except I can’t climb hard.
Getting hammer toes from my climbing shoes.Better to get future shoes in larger size, do some exercises to reverse the hammer toes or just live with them? Don't have any problems (yet)
>>214265some guy in Fontainebleau climbs barefoot.I started off bouldering barefoot when I lived in Austria, 15min drive to a great spot with soft stone. It's really ideal. Now I live in the city far from the mountains :(I figure if you kept at it you would get callusses and really strong toes.
>>214266
>>214268Damn, I'd rather have a hammer toe than minced callus
>>214298Bloke in pic apparently tried barefoot climbing on rough granite.
Enough talking about grade differences, I want to know what actually is the key deciding factor in progressing between higher grades. Why is it that climbers who spend more time outdoors progress faster? When does finger-strength become a deciding factor? What makes two different climbers have different styles? Is it better to project hard as fuck at your limit, or is it better to do mild stuff that takes 1-2 tries?As for me, I'm someone who loves projecting HARD ass shit. The type of shit that takes me like 50 tries over 4 weeks of projecting. The shit that makes my abs hurt like hell. And I made some awesome progress this year, but I feel like I might be missing out on progress. Would I have been able to achieve the same feat in less tries had I just worked on lesser projects? Technically speaking I have less time on the wall when all I do is focus on doing 1-2 really hard moves. But in the end, it helps MASSIVELY with my technique, because the moves force me to do it. So all in all I think there is some merit. What do you guys think?
>>214453There isn't one easy answer regarding how to get really really good at climbing, but we know for sure that the best correlates to performance on real rock are finger strength to bodyweight ratio and time spent climbing outside. Everything else might as well be mumbo jumbo mystical woo woo bullshit. As far as programming goes, I think it makes sense to vary stimulus over time. Projecting makes you strong in ways specific to your projects, you achieve specific technique breakthroughs, but your overall fitness starts to lag behind in areas where you are not getting stimulus. On the other hand, getting lots of volume around your flash level is a great way to get in a variety of stimulus and get stronger/better overall, but you will lack the try hard and specific application of technique needed to send at your absolute limit.When I was projecting an outdoor v10 earlier this year, I would go outside twice a week and work moves and sequences on the project, and then once or twice a week I would be in the gym doing all the problems that I could get under 3 or so tries. I would also add in some extra finger stimulus after my gym sessions because my project wasn't super crimpy and I didn't want to lose finger strength in the meantime. This combination worked great, I didn't feel overly fatigued for my project and still felt good on a variety of problems that weren't related to my project. Lately I've been doing more single session problems outdoors in the v6-v9 range and I'm itching to get on something really hard soon.
>>214457Yeah that's a really good point... Maybe I will keep super hard, hard projecting to maybe 1-2 sessions a week, and try and maintain decent volume on the wall. I still feel happy when I send a project in 2-3 tries but it required everything I had to make sure I didn't fall off. Does climbing indoors too much lead to stalling? I feel like indoor progress is so... fucking wonky..
>>214462There's definitely a place for indoor climbing, you can still get stronger and better as a climber, it's just not specific enough to be the perfect stimulus if your goal is to be a good outdoor climber. Still good though. Great way to work on purely physical attributes. I enjoy board climbing quite a lot and I've had a lot of success setting cruxes/sequences that resemble my outdoor projs on the spray wall.
Here's a little tip for anons working on their finger strength: when you're hang boarding or doing no hangs, learn how to actively squeeze the holds. There is a huge difference between passively hanging on a hold, where friction is doing a lot of the heavy lifting for you, and actively squeezing the hold by contracting your forearm muscles on purpose. You will notice a few things, namely that you can't really chisel grip and will be forced to strict half crimp, the amount of weight you can add will decrease at first but will catch up later, and most importantly you will notice that when you climb, initiating any movement off a crimp type hold requires you to actively pull and squeeze the holds, which is what you should be doing while training your fingers. A really strong climber taught me this and it transformed my finger strength. Next time you go climbing try to notice what happens during the moment you initiate movement off a crimp in regards to how you're pulling on the hold and the difference in your forearm activation between just hanging on a hold and moving from it. Huge difference.
I was top-roping indoors last night and my friend encouraged me to try a 5.12. I'd never done anything above 5.11+, and I had just needed to take on a 5.11-, but I figured aw what the heck. Was definitely super hard, I cheated on multiple segments, but I realized that at this level, it's not really about strength as much as really good footwork. There were times when I was like, "hold up, okay so the handholds are shit, but there's a really good sloper I could use for my feet" and it really felt like I had to problem solve. I was lowered down to the first point where I cheated, and actually did the move properly. Felt amazing. I think that with enough technique work, and a liiiitle bit of sloper training, I could find myself doing a 5.12 within the next few months. I'm really proud I could do some of the movements on it regardless, especially since I just boulder n shit. Btw, I'm around a V5 cloimber, and I don't really boardclimb that much. Any tips for me, or something I could be missing?
flashed a v5 yesterday, climbed a v6 today it's quite a modern gym and the grading is soft but I know I'm getting better still up to 140% bw 20mm hax hang too, in another year it's hopefully 160% at least, it will pay off in the end need to go outdoors soon, I love climbing so much I know it's the one
>>214079imagine typing all this because you cant get off the ground on a 20mm edge>>214062American. That's why i put 'v8' in quotes. It's closer to v5-v6 outdoor
>>214518>acts like a bodyweight hang on a huge edge is sone profound achievement>Literally only climbs V5 outdoorsThis has to be bait lol
>>214519Wait until someone tells him about 10mm edges.
>>213972kys you retardbouldering broyou aren't going to make it
I would go as far as to say It should be illegal for a citizen of a peoples republic to not do 20mm max hangs at least 1.5 times a week
Before the thread gets any shittier, let's change the subject - Lockout strength - can make or break some climbs for me, but I finally got the hang of it. Helped me on this one overhang once.
>>214518Typically boulder grades are easier outdoor than indoor and lead grades are easier indoor than outdoor.
>>214528There can't be any truth to this.
I can hang on a 6mm edge
20mm max hangs
>>214527Recently I’ve been trying to avoid locking off and have focused on doing reachy moves more dynamically. I think I’ve been wasting a lot of energy doing everything statically.
>>214521hangboarding won't make you a better climber bro
>>214558I might start hangboarding for the purpose of rehabbing my pulley. It keeps hurting randomly, and I've been told to do a max-hang protocol for 3-4 weeks to strengthen it. Thoughts?
>>214569I've had something like 4-5 pulley injuries. Rehabbing by hangboarding is the method that worked best for me. You can load statically, you can measure the load accurately and you can easily modulate the time. Way better than trying to climb through it, where loads are dynamic and hard to measure properly.
>>214584What did you do specifically to help with yours? I'm thinking of doing a simple max hang protocol where it's 4-5 sets of 10 second hangs, 3 min rest between sets. Only training the half crimp position, going to do it Mondays and Fridays, but climb regularly on Wednesdays. Increase by 2.5lbs between hanging sessions.
>>214585I found the max I could hang while keeping the pain at a dull not sharp threshold, like 3/10 pain max. Then I backed off from that max by 20% or so for my starting weight, increasing the weight hung by a small amount, usually 1-2 pounds using micro plates every session. I would do 2-3 of these sessions a week along with light climbing until my injured pulley felt close to normal. I think the slow overload of the injured pulley is the key.When not injured, I typically hangboard in 3 month blocks, one block in the winter and one in the summer, along with climbing on boards and gym sets. Mostly outdoor climbing in the spring/fall.
>>214587Noted. Right now, my pulley is already mostly "healed". Tbh, it basically feels normal, there's no climbing I do that bothers it, but sometimes when I moonboard and stuff, it just feels a bit achy the day after. I'm trying to do a max hang protocol to strengthen it and stop that residual achyness.Thanks for the idea.
>>214588Update - Did a bw max hang for 10 seconds, then added 10lbs. I'm 180lbs at 6'0, so I did a 190lb max hang. Did 3 sets of 10 seconds, basically to failure. Are my fingers actually that weak? I hear the 9C test wouldn't even give me 2/10 pts for this feat. Gonna go up in weight by like 2.5lbs, maybe on like Thursday.
>>214609On average, v8 outdoor climbers have approx. 150-160% bw 20mm edge half crimp hang for 7s. It's a range, obviously there are outliers on either end. Finger strength correlates pretty strongly with grade climbed, it is definitely worth working on.
>>214636There's so much conflicting advice on how to actually do max hangs, and most of that "information" is on reddit, performed by retards. How often do you increase the weight? I heard that it's a good idea to increase sets up to 6 THEN increase the weight. Thoughts on this? Yesterday I could only do 3 sets because I felt like I was at or very close to failure. Took everything I had to stay on for the full 10 seconds. So next time, I'm going to try and go for 4 sets of 10 seconds. I think a part of this is that I've been out of climbing for a couple of weeks, so neurologically, I'm fatigued, but I've done 185lb repeaters, idk why a 10-second hang felt so damn hard.
>>214664All you really need is progressive overload and consistency. Pick a grip type (usually half crimp and maybe 3 finger drag) find your max, back off 10-20% for your starting weight, then add weight progressively until you stall out, hopefully above your previous max. Deload from the stall out point, repeat. Personally, I have had great success with microloading the entire way. A few years ago I could hang bw +20 lbs, I then did max hangs with microloading progression, adding 1-2 lbs per session, every session. A few months later I was hanging bw +90 lbs and my climbing improved drastically. Rep timing and number of sets isn't as important. 7s reps work, 10s reps work, longer is probably worse. Anywhere between 4-12 sets per grip type would work, depending on how advanced you are.
>>214680How do you find your max? I used to be 185lbs and I was doing 7s on, 3 seconds off repeaters, so I figured doing 190lbs should be fine. 3 sets of 10 seconds felt fucking hard, but idk if that's just because I haven't hung in awhile. When finding your max, do you do a 5s? A 10s? There's no god damn way that 190lbs is my max if I did 3 sets of it. Here's my current strategy- If my next set I can do 5 sets without failing, then it just means this intro session was just priming my brain. I'll microload 1-2lbs per session. Since I'm newer to hangboarding, I probably don't need much volume to stimulate growth. I'll hang twice a week, and have a light climbing session between them.Tbh, my pulley already feels fucking normal, but I'll keep hanging just to ensure it doesn't ever fucking come back, because it's really fucking annoying to do that. If I stall (can't progress, or I fail at the same time), then I'll just "deload" boulder regularly for awhile, then come back". Thing is, if 190lbs is my max, 180lbs is just bw. It's retarded to have to do a fucking "20% backoff" that means I'd have to take weight off myself, and if that happens then I'll just do repeaters until it works.
>>214733Just add weight until you can't hold a strict half crimp for 7-10s for one rep. The point of the back off is so you can actually complete your sets. If you can do 190 lbs for 3 sets of 10 it's not your max.
>>214794Oh yeah and I should mention, you only find your max once, you don't have to do it again/every session
>>214795Gotchu. I heard people only find their max like once every two months. My fingers feel fine, so I;m gonna toprope tomorrow, then maxhang again on Sat. Thanks for the advice.
best type of climbing, depending on the number of participants:>soloboulder>party of 2single pitch sport/trad>party of 3multipitch>party of 4+boulder
>>214972for me personally it's>soloboulder>party of 2boulder>party of 3boulder>party of 4+boulderI really like bouldering, probably because I'm ""strong"" and ""heavy"" and absolutely suck at lead climbing
It snowed today ffs. Hopefully it’s still possible to get out on sunday.
>>214316Nothing nail clippers and tape can't fix.
>>213901How do you like them so far? And, on what surface have you tried them on?
>>215123>How do you like them so far?They're really cool shoes and a fantastic alternative to the Skwama but not really an upgrade. For me they're on the same level.The heel was interesting, in some cases I liked the Skwama heel more and in others the Mandala heel.Edging-wise I was really impressed by the Mandala and the no edge 'smedging' thing, I could stand on small footholds that I couldn't stand on with my Skwamas or at least not as long (although my Skwamas are around 4-5 months old and close to getting replaced)All in all I won't switch to the Mandalas though since the Skwamas fit me a lot better.Maybe I'll try the Instinct VS(R) next since I haven't tried them ever but atm nothing compares to the Skwamas for me.>And, on what surface have you tried them on?Only indoors, weather was pretty meh the last few weeks. I think they'll work really well outdoors though
>>215136Yea same. They are a good second shoe in combination with a shoe that excels at overhang and pockets. If the skwama fit your feet well, maybe try the Mastia. Works for me. Unfortunately they, as well as the Instincts are synthetic. The leather lining in Sportiva shoes is GOATED and they hold their shape much better over time. But I like the Mastia because its really comfortable for long sessions. I washed out some of my synthetic shoes recently and there was all this dust in my tub, probably consisted of 99 percent microplastics. Makes me want to only buy leather shoes in the future, but unfortunately I think La Sportiva are the only ones making those.
Red Bull ran one of their meme events earlier today. This is sort of like an Arco lead/speed race event set up on the side of a dam. Only real difference is it's longer than the Arco wall. They got some of the better world cup climbers to show up for this. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R8MiVxHnhoI
>>215154>Only real difference is it's longer than the Arco wallOkay I hadn't started watching the thing when I posted it. It's a lot longer. It's multi-pitch which makes the belay situation a little weird for a comp.
>>215155>multi-pitch speed climbingWe'll now I'm interested. Do the commentators critique their belay transitions?
>>215156>Do the commentators critique their belay transitions?No they're being lame and assuming the audience doesn't care. Transitions are being used as replay time for the broadcast.
>>215157...but they still count for the overall time of the ascent? How are they supposed to present a coherent description of the actual climb without at least mentioning it? Lame.
>>215159It's a head to head (team vs team) race so the actual time isn't relevant. There is some system regarding benaldies from falls I don't quite get. The race doesn't even if someone falls.
>>215160>The race doesn't even if someone fallsdoesn't end
>>215160>There is some system regarding benaldies from falls I don't quite get. The race doesn't even if someone falls.Pretty sure the winner is decided on number of penalties first, then time if penalties are equal. If you fall then you can either lower back down to the start of that pitch and climb it again (erasing the penalty point but obviously taking a hit in terms of time and fatigue) or you can grab back onto the wall and keep climbing from the point you feel (in which case you're essentially counting on your opponents doing the same). Toward the end of last years comp, the men topped pretty much neck and neck only for both girls to fall right at the end. One of them fucked up when she immediately decided to take the penalty point and kept climbing which meant the other girl was able to lower back down, rest for like 15 minutes or something and then reclimb the final pitch taking as much time as she wanted.
>>215175https://www.redbull.com/int-en/live/red-bull-dual-ascent-2023
>>215140>The leather lining in Sportiva shoes is GOATED100%, only used synthetic shoes before and tried the vegan Skwama. Really liked it but read from a few people that the leather version is superior so I tried the leather Skwama after and will never ever switch back
>>215180Yea. Plus they dont stink in my experience.
>>214794>>214733Okay an update post - Just did a max hang with 12.5lbs added, and it was far easier. Managed to get 4 sets of 10 seconds. Also, I was heavier that day, weighing in at 182lbs (with shoes), so technically I added 14.5lbs. Woke up this morning, not only does my pulley feel fine, I have some sick forearm DOMS that I've never felt before. I think this will make my forearms stronger quite a bit faster than regular climbing (at least given my circumstances). Excited for my pulley to be rehabbed so I can put the strength to the test.
can you sport faggots stay in the gym? i don't want to see each hold due to you caking your hands in your sissy powderalso i'm shy, there's too many of you going out these days
>>215231Sorry, I'll warm up without chalk next time
>>215231>I'm shyOpinion automatically discarded you introverted faggot.
My climbing journey's complicated. I take time off due to work or personal matters, then come back, hit a new peak, then have to take time off. Every time I come back my gym feels completely different. I've climbed a few V5s, and am projecting Moongirl (a V6?) on the moonboard 2024 set. While I make progress on it, I feel like I'm still no better.Gym grades also fluctuate. Sometimes I can flash the V4's with ease. Sometimes there are V3s I can't even start. All of this makes me feel like I'm stuck. How do I know, objectively, that I'm progressing? And why do I feel like it takes so long to get even slightly better? I climb with friends who basically make huge leaps in progress and it makes me feel like I'm just not made for the sport. These are people who've climbed V6 in their first year, and are now projecting V9 at the end of their second. They don't do anything much differently, so how come they're making more progress than me?I don't know what I'm doing wrong. I sent my first V5 in December, and it's been almost a year and I feel like I'm only barely on the cusp of a V6. I feel like I'm just spinning my wheels. Do I hangboard? Do I do weighted chins? Do I just climb? I've tried all of those things and idk what works. I just want to flash V6s. But I can barely finish some of the V5's that're set.
>>215295What you need is consistency. You said you tried various training methodologies, but for how long? Have you kept up with anything in particular for an extended amount of time? All you really need to get better is to climb with intention, try hard, and to keep your training consistent. Hangboarding for a few sessions isn't going to do anything substantial for your finger strength, hangboarding consistently will. Trying a few boulders beyond your current ability once in awhile won't do much to make you stronger or technically better, but doing so consistently will. When I started climbing, I had this idea that finger strength mattered a lot and that it would be helpful for both my technique and overall ability to top boulders of my fingers were strong. I did a simple max hang hangboard routine 2-3 times a week along with climbing in the gym. All I did was progressively overload my fingers, same way weightlifters add weight to their lifts. I added a pound or two per session, every session. Did that for 3 months, took a break, then another 3 months straight. I started that year hanging slightly over body weight on a 20mm edge in a half crimp, I ended the year hanging bodyweight +95 lbs on a 20mm edge. I went from climbing v3 or so to v7, got my first v6 and v7 outdoors and overall improved my climbing in every way. Nowadays I'm climbing outdoors lots and training little, but consistency there has also paid off, my real rock skills are way better than they used to be. I still do a large 3-4 month block of hangboarding per year, the finger gains have slowed substantially but they're still coming, slowly but surely.Just be consistent.
>>215313here https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J---aiyznGQ
What are good weight training and ab exercises for improving climbing beyond just hangboarding and pullups in terms of pre and post climb exercises?
>>215315T...thanks anon
>>215295I just started a max hang protocol anon. I feel the pain, I'm dealing with an injury. If you're not injured, that's already a huge accomplishment.>>215313As the anon above who just started hangboarding, do you max hang and climb in the same day? I think today I'll max hang with 15lbs added, then I'll do some light, non-crimpy top-roping after.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8hXfvFuA_6EI'll try that since one of my fingers is a bit finicky atm
>>215465I feel like this shit fucked me over. Whenever I do no-hangs, i feel my fingers start to hurt>you're not supposed to hang heavyYeah I know, I only apply enough force to just kinda feel something, no more than 20lbs, then after a week I feel my fingers get weird.
>>215466Man if you're applying 20lbs of force and your finger feels weird, you are straight up injured. Emil style no hangs are meant to be done at approx. 60% of bodyweight which is super super light
is /xs/ climbing outside this weekend or indoors?
It is annoying how ice axes aren't sold in pairs. I do not want to pay $300-ish for each nomic separately, but then again it wouldn't matter if they were sold together or separately, I would still pay $600-ish for both.
Time to settle this once and for all-Kilterboard or MoonboardKilter Pros:>Easily customizable>Angle changes mean there's infinite ways to progress a route. Moonboard V6 too hard? Just do a Kilter V6 on a steep angle. Or a Kilter V5 on a steeper angle. Or a Kilter V2 at 70 degrees.>Means you can fill in the gaps that gym problems have. Gap between two grades too hard? Angles, angles, angles. Just change it, become a god. The end.Moonboard pros:>Body-tension chad generators>Actually applicable outdoors>Look like a fucking god shirtless>Everyone in the gym knows you're the shit>Milestones actually give you definitive measure of progress>Stupidly high number of custom routes.
Magnus' latest video finally made me a hater. christ what an idiot / sucker / sellout. most intellectually offensive thing I've seen all month and the viewers love it>>215495Moonboard mogs for the simple fact that >90% of users won't be deluded into thinking they're better than they are, while >90% of kilterboard users will be.An extra-special FUCK YOU to the tensionboard for having metal bolts that jut out beyond the hold (smaller footholds). When it comes to indoor climbing, this is an unforgivable sin. The potential for my patella to smash against bolted metal in a climbing gym while going for a dynamic move should be literally illegal. It's pure negligence; what the fuck were they thinking? Why are gyms buying this?
>>215487indoors, we had 15 inches of snow this week and tomorrow we are getting another foot
>>215498our tension board doesn't have any bolts sticking out of the bolt holes, maybe the people that set up your board fucked up?
>>215500these commercial boards come with everything, right? different version I imagine, the gym's been around since before 2000 so it'd be shocking if they had simply bungled it
>>215499Damn brother,that sucks, did you make good use of the season though?
>>215498>Magnus' latest video finally made me a hater. christ what an idiot / sucker / sellout. most intellectually offensive thing I've seen all month and the viewers love itDid you just fucking realize it now? How melted is your fucking brain? Most popular climbing content is filled with brainrot. Some anon ranted about it two threads ago (it was me). Any YouTube video longer than 9 minutes is an automatic "don't recommend" for me, and virtually all climbing videos are like that. Bloated, vapid content designed to reel in viewers bc >le reddit algorithm (thank you kind stranger) >(wasn't expecting to get upvoted but here we are)It's all braindead shit. Good climbing videos are old ones, before social media ruined the sport, and random dudes projecting their shit in 45 second shorts. If a climbing video is noticeably edited, AVOID AT ALL COSTS.
>>215498>Magnus' latest video finally made me a haterOnly watching the stuff from his "More Magnus" channel, it's closer to his old climbing videos of him climbing alone and talking.No Youtube clickbait shit, just simple climbing (and Rungne advertisement)
>>215494>buying ice tools newdamn look at mr money bagshttps://www.mountainproject.com/forum/topic/127267952/fs-petzl-nomics>>215487it's too cold. I've been climbing outside for the last however many weekends but I think I'm through.
>>215487No it's either too wet or too cold
>>215487very nice photograph
>Sean McColl>Keenan Takahashi>Alannah Yip>Katie Lamb>Noah Wheeler>Tristan Chen>Nina Williams>Ashima ShiraishiFrom the outside (Europe) it looks like climbing is really popular amongst Asian-Americans/Canadians. Is this true? If so, why is this demographic climbing so much? Socioeconomic, cultural reasons?
>>215527>it looks like climbing is really popular amongst Asian-Americans/CanadiansYes>socioeconomic, cultural reasonsYesAsian Americans live in cities with access to climbing gyms. They earn enough to pay for memberships. They have smaller builds and a cultural disparity that discourages them from team sports. They are under a lot of internal pressure to improve and perform and climbing is a good outlet for that pressure. There's probably other stuff but it just makes sense to me. If I was Asian-American I would be into climbing.
>>215505yup got more outdoor days and sends this year than any before, did about a dozen v6-v9 around my local cragstime to train
>>215501Man I would assume so but I can also see a builder messing up the spec on accident, I think boards come with holds and LEDs but it's up the the builder to provide T-nuts and bolts. Maybe they used longer bolts. I'll take a pic of my tension board when I get a chance and post it here.
>>215511I can enjoy goofy content so long as it isn't telling outright lies to the camera the whole time. It's entertainment that isn't as stupid as most television. I always thought hating on Magnus for being a youtuber instead of a climbing purist was a bit autistic, but now that he's unapologetically highlighting """alternative science""" mormons for clicks I feel similarly.
>>215555I envy your smooth-brain. I wish I could enjoy watching vapid content. Nothing about his videos are entertaining, and this applies to most climbers. They're so artificial nowadays. I want to see bros just chilling, not some muscle dude campus my V6 projects. There's no fun in that, it's just a guy who's flexing. His only good point is that he climbs shirtless, but beyond that it's not interesting to watch him.Adam Ondra has a similar issue - outside his projects, watching him climb isn't interesting bc there's no struggle. Also he looks like a DOOF shirtless. Short form, projecting videos are top tier. Or fail compilations of kilterboard projects, followed by a rly good success. Those videos are never more than 5-6 mins, and don't waste 30 minutes of your viewing time. Enjoy being clinically retarded kind stranger. Lmk your reddit so I can upvote your posts.
>>215527>You say you only crimb 8c+? Why you no crimb 8a+? You sum kinda weakling or sum ting? *SLAP*. ROOOOK AT ME WHEN I TALKIN TO YOU! Now. Go to your room and train. You must crimb 8a+! A+ you hear!?
>>215557Did anyone else start watching asian girl climbing videos then decide to click on one girls videos and it's her and a boy dancing and the caption reads,>When you find out it's not illegal to be with step bro
>>215487
>>215556>People that climb harder than me are showing off and making me feel badLol...lmao!
>>2153613rd max hang session in and I already failed. My half crimp form breaks after 3 seconds with 15lbs added. The fuck is wrong with me? I can still hang off the edge with just open-hand, but I feel like that's bad... Or... is that how max-hangs are supposed to go? Idk why I feel so weak today, I bouldered on Tuesday and slept/ate fine since. Is this normal? Do I repeat this workout and try and maintain form, or do I take a "just hang on at all costs" approach to this? I feel like I'm overthinking this
>>215586You could go up an edge size to help you really nail down the half crimp form before going back down. If you're doing 20mm now, try 25 or 30mm. You could also just stay at at a given weight for multiple sessions before trying to move up. It's all about progressing over the long term, that's the only real trick.It could also be a case of too little volume to force adaptation. How many reps are you doing and what timing regime? Are you resting for 3+ minutes between reps?
>>215140Acopa makes a few leather shoes. I really like the Aztecs, I have a couple pairs that are resoled with XSGrip 2 and they're pretty much perfect for slab/face to 5.11I don't really like the rubber they come with but that's not a problem.
>>215586Just hang more
>>215617My last two sessions were as follows: (I hang on Fridays, boulder on Wed/Tues)Week 1: Max hang 10lbs added, 3 sets of 10 seconds w/ 5 min rest between sets.Week 2: 12.5lbs added, 4 sets of 10 seconds, five minute rest between sets.Week 3: Working a project on Tuesday, Friday: 15lbs added, 1 set of 10 seconds (form broke down on second 9, but I kept it bc I was basically done) 2nd set was 2 seconds then form broke down instantly. Tried again after 2 minutes of resting, again just 3 seconds, I don't even count it. Flashed a 5.10d right after, decided to call it because I just felt tired. Maybe it really was just an off day. >>215623I can try repeating it next Friday.I'm doing this all for injury rehab, and my finger bothers me less with each week.
>>215636>3-4 sets of 10s>Hanging once per weekYeah, that's fine for rehabbing and injury, once that's all better you should try hanging 2-3 times per week and do 4-8 sets of hangs to actually get stronger.
>>215644How can you hang more than once a week? After a hang session, my fingers feel like jelly for like 3 days. I'm still very new to hanging in general. Do you climb after hanging? I don't, so if I have two hanging days in a week, I'd only be able to climb on the days I don't climb
Heard about the Butora Nix for the first time.Any experience with Butora in general?
>>215687This looks like the trans identity in shoe form. You should be ashamed for even having this file on your hard drive.
>>215688Nothing wrong with being trans.
>>215688>sees climbing shoe>thinks of trannies???
>>215688There's also a red one, is that one more or less transsexual?If someone knows it should be you
>gym hosts a competition again>everything closed for 2 days so they can set up>have to pay if I want to go during the competition even if I have a yearly subscription, wouldn't be able to climb anyway>next days they only have the route they kept for the finals>half of the gym closed while they set up new routes>lost 5 days and all my projects are goneWish I was from the US and could sue their asses.
>>215700Yes there is, don't even lie.>>215701What can I say? Feet and trannies go together.>>215704Red one looks based as fuck. Sigma-energy coming from it. I'd wear that shit to a funeral just so people ask me where I got it from.>>215712Fun fact- because you can sue people in the US for basically anything, the vast majority of suits never go anywhere. Unless there's an injury claim involved, people rarely want to settle. Just go to a different gym? Or crag? Idk man I feel you bc my favorite gym is a comp hotspot, and they close it every other month, replacing all my projects with paddling bullshit made for 12 year olds on adderall. Fuck dynos.
>>215712You can't sue a climbing gym in the USA.
Is it retarded to climb while gassed to focus on technique? I was projecting a V6 yesterday, got tired, went to a V5, repeat until even a V2 became a challenge and it was great, I had the sickest pump.
>>215741it's fun but pretty unproductive, you're training at a disadvantage at that point. leading to sloppier technique, and you're building up further fatigue which will affect your next session. it is a lot of fun though and I still do it occasionally.
>>215745>leading to sloppier techniqueActually it forces you to rely on better footwork since you're arms are so gassed. With enough serious trying, it can benefit you. Just throwing yourself at the wall like a retard won't accomplish anything.>Building up further fatigueNo you're not. With proper diet and rest, residual fatigue won't be that much of an issue. Plus there's multiple training regimes that incentivize you to give yourself an extra dose of volume to eek out some additional gains. Coming from a background of lifting, it's not uncommon to see people do 60%-80% backoff sets to help growth. This means there's some value in a dude projecting a V6 getting some more V3's/V4s out of the way. Climbing to the point of exhaustion where V2s are hard, though, seems a bit much, but if it's just once in awhile, it'll hardly hurt you.
>puffs bong smoke>Guys; I just bought THis tindeq, it measures critical force output>dried lips are licked with the stench of unwashed teeth quickly re-drying them after some words are spoken>As every science-based climber should know...>Mind flashes back to diploma of computer science from meme/state university anon only got in for 10% scholarship leaving him 20k in debt >critical force output is measured thanks to the finger tendons innate ability to>Mind wonders as YouTube video he watched 28 minutes ago seems foggy, likely the result of years of smoking weed for hours while masturbating to WMAF porn>Finger strength is critical bro>oh me? Yeah, I'm wearing the new Rugne shirt from Magnus Mitbø>Adds the ø to assert what he perceives as grammatical superiority>Yeah I'm glad you noticed my black diamond chalk bag>Oh that project I sent last week? Absolutely the result of the finger-pad I purchased from https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hYhDonW5WHg>Oh, yeah you like my chalk? I only purchase Magdust from Runge>Puffs bong smoke as eyes roll back in bliss of superiority>Climbing... is science based>High elevates him to the feeling of a king>Tears softly drain from his eyes>"My life... is science based" >"Evidence... Evidence is the only reason I've come this far">In a brilliant flash of heavenly, inconceivable bliss, heads to the counter of his gym's shop>With tears in his eyes asks>"Yeah I'll take that beanie. $40? But are the threads ethically made? Sold.">Drives home, with the feeling of orgasmic elation that only shilling gets youCan I please watch one fucking climbing video on YouTube that isn't some twink wearing glasses who's never deadlifted more than 300lbs calling himself an "evidence based lifter" followed by some advertisement to a retarded training block, the 3rd one they came out with this month?
>>215788This is an actual conversation being held in the comments section for this retarded training block shill video. The premise is that some people have weird finger anatomy that makes hangboarding not possible bc pinky is too short, or middle finger is too short or too long i don't fucking know, so they made another new training block right? Anon in comments rightly points out that you can just hang on the fingers you're not training enough. Autistic Redditor shows up>b-b-ut that diminishes force production>you... N--eeed this product>Tendons are important>th-think of the adaptations bro>Y-you're not li-listening, the training block makes things optimal>cums Why are climbers like this?
>>215789How is it gonna help me climb better? Most edges are flat-ish. You are not gonna find an edge outside that looks like that training block. Why would I train for something that's not actually applicable? If my pinky is too short to half crimp along with other fingers it's not gonna matter when I climb. My pinky is going to be performing the same as on the hangboard. Or am I missing something?
>>215793According to these faggots, the "ingenius" design of the hold is to engage all of your fingers. They argue that outside edges are rarely "100% flat" and have "bumps" or "curves" which is just bullshit, but hey that's why you should use this "ergonomic" design (why does everything have to be ergonomic ffs) that ensures you're maximizing your fingers in a way conventional hangboarding just simply can't. Trust the science bro, you know that climbing scientists (neckbeards) were hard at work solving the problem that nobody was fucking having. They begin the video by saying, "few people have trouble actually engaging all their fingers properly" and conclude it by saying, "This product is what literally everybody needs, if you don't have it you're killing your gains" it's bullshit marketing at it's finest. You have reddit defenders of the product coming up with anatomical excuses to explain why you can't just fucking train weaker fingers separately.
Amazing to see how much butthurt a single well intentioned youtube comment can cause. A comment written by some schmuck named Zachary, no less.
>>215687>>215704regarding butora WHY THE FUCK do the us gomis look so fucking good while the eu gomis are absolute fucking clown shoes???
>>215799It's the entire fucking community of you reddit fucks. Everything boils down to "muh science-based climbing". Kill yourself faggot.
>>215807Listen to yourself, you whinging keyboard warrior.
Guys, kilterboard works better for fingers than hanging and idk why. When I hang, my fingers fail before I can really get a good feeling going in them, when I kilterboard I always feel destroyed after (in a good way). Thoughts? Follow up - How do y'all feel about climbing in Trump's America?
>>215856>Thoughts?I never liked hangboarding and still have fingers strong enough thanks to moonboarding and kilterboarding "a lot"
>>215862Define "alot?" I do like... maybe once every 2 weeks, but now I wanna do it every week, maybe sometimes twice a week.
>>2158682 times per week but the last few months I haven't done much board climbing, maybe once every 2-3 weeks.I miss it, builds tons of finger strength and body tension
>>215807>>215794>>215789Bro, stop letting them colonize your mind like this. Yes, they're retarded. Fucking forget about them.
>>215885Okay.
Been climbing for 3 years and when I climb slopey boulders outdoors it feels disproportionately difficult compared to everything else in the grade range. I focused extra hard on sloper problems in the gym and trained on the beastmaker slopers for months with basically no improvement on the outdoor problems. when it comes to slick rock it just feels like my fingers can't do it no matter how strong they are, and perfect chalk application + brushing just isn't enough. has anyone else struggled with this?
>>215937Yes, countless people, it's just a technique issue at this point. You're used to using the wood shit, which can give you the general strength needed, but outside climbing will just take time to get used to. Keep tackling those problems and it will come with time. I guarantee you there's probably some part of your technique you're fucking up, and maybe a minor, MINOR strength issue, but if you keep projecting it'll help. Slopers have a lot to do with wrist engagement too, so don't just focus on the fingers.>This is coming from someone who can pretty consistently do overhung V5s outdoors, but struggles to do a slabby V3Just keep playing around, focusing on your weaknesses will make you better.
>>215937Outdoor slopers have much more friction than indoor holds, and often they have micro features that can and should be exploited, something you almost certainly wouldn't find indoors. Outdoors you'll find that crimping a sloper or exploiting a micro dimple is much more effective than simply slapping your hand on the hold. You really have to take into account that you have much more friction and that you can do things you otherwise could not indoors. If it's a strength issue, it's very likely to be your wrist strength or general open hand strength. How is your 3 finger drag compared to your crimps? Do you have beefy wrists?
Forgot to post, Team Boulder Arena:https://www.youtube.com/live/u0nms85GS1EPretty fun and don't want to spoiler but my climbing waifu won <3Sadly it's only slab/dyno/coordination shit, also a whole fucking no-tex boulder
And another one in London, 'The Tenzing Brawl On The Wall'https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A8rPdrzhJg0
Bros theres a girl at my gym who looks like miho if miho ate another miho...
>>216018SAY NO TO FAT CHICKS
>>216018There should be laws banning fat women from the following>Dating apps>Gyms>Grocery stores (This is for their own benefit)>Bars>Clubs>The general public (This is for their own benefit)>BakeriesI think that covers all the bases. At least in climbing gyms, stay around the cave, it's a fat free zone that gravity enforces. God I fucking hate fat girls, gutter jawed disgusting smelly whale fucks.
>>215999>Sadly it's only slab/dyno/coordination shit The no-tex boulder was pretty fucking powerful though.
>>215999>rabbit is wearing pantswhat the fuck why
>>216048>>216047Fag comp climbers are back.>>215999>my climbing waifu won <3You sound like such a huge fucking faggot. There's no value to your existence.
ITT: people who think being perpetually pissed off makes them interesting or funny
>>215999Huh, I haven't seen a comp run in pairs like that before (other than >>215154 of course). That's cool. Pretty obvious most of the teams were being carried by one member though. >>216017I bumped into Toby in Margalef not that long ago. If he's back in the UK I guess that means Perfecto Mundo shut him down. Shame, he was psyched about his progress when we spoke. >>216050Talking about comps is even more fun knowing it makes you seethe. Thanks bro.
>>216050lol
>>216057I know you enjoy being called a faggot, trans-boy.
Guys, I'm gonna kilterboard tomorrow for the first time in weeks. I'm so excited
>>216105>kilterc'mon son you know I didn't raise you that way
>>216133don't shit on it. not every gym has a moonboard or tensionboard.kilterboard is perfectly fine and the entry barrier is way lower.
>>216137I'm a sad sap that can't do moonboard because it's too hard. I figure once I get some V5s on Kilter, I can do a Moon V4>>216133I'm working to impress you papi
>>216105BASED BOARD BENEFITTEREvery board is cool, I enjoy the moonboard the most but they're all really cool and a good training tool.
>>216139Just got back bros. Fingers feel strong. Core feels strong.
I have been warming up on a moonboard making my own routes. It's an angled wall maybe 45 degrees of a bunch of old holds everywhere that I've been calling a moonboard because it's like a moonrock surface I can also call it volcano board for that reason but moonboard is more fitting. I figure when I get better at climbing, I'll start doing those board routes with the light up programs
>>216159that's called a spray wall.learning the proper terms instead of misusing existing ones will help people understand what you are talking about.spray walls are a great training tool. there's a lot of creativity involved and you can easily adjust boulders to make them harder/softer. all the pros train on spray walls, because at some level, systematic boards become too limiting. so don't look at your current training as something lesser.
>>214569>>214584Injured my finger "lightly" a few months ago, hangboarding made it worse.H-Taping, no (pain) hangs and leaving out aggressive crimps helped A LOT, could go back to climbing normally within 3-4 weeks.So while hangboarding surely is good and has its merits, I didn't like it for rehab
>>216193It largely depends on the nature of the injury. In my case, hangboarding helped a lot. Idk why you had a different experience and I don't want to speculate. All I know is that tissues, tendons, muscles, all heal when exposed to load, that simply resting isn't sufficient. I'm glad your up to capacity now though. My guess is that just avoiding the crap that was really over-stressing your hand for awhile let your hand heal, but you still climbed, exposing the areas to minor loads that helped it recover.
>>216159>>216166What's the point of inventing your own routes when the gym has routes to try? That'd make sense if you could already do the rest, but if you're looking for a challenge, there's bound to be several problems at the gym outside of your style. I don't understand why people spraywall.
>>216195>but you still climbed, exposing the areas to minor loads that helped it recover.Absolutely, I heard and read often enough that completely stopping for a longer time and no longer loading the injured part is the worst thing you can do.But as you said/wrote, probably different kinds of injuries or maybe you're just a hell of a lot stronger and have steel tendons
>>216195As the injury heals, applying some stress can get the injury to heal better and faster as it loosens things up allowing a readjustment and there is an increase in bloodflow. Overdoing it will make the injury worse.
>>216205Using the moonwall for warmup mostly consists of easier holds with a few harder holds with a wide range of movement. The routes are mostly in the v1-2 range and I make them up as I go on the wall. The goal is to get your body moving in many different ways to loosen things up. And it makes me better at overhangs which is still a weak point in my climbing. I find it to be a better warmup than doing the easier set routes. When looking for a challenge, I typically remove holds from existing routes or try harder grades.
